EP2167017A2

EP2167017A2 - Cosmetic stick based on a congealed oil-in-water dispersion/emulsion having a hydrogel former

Info

Publication number: EP2167017A2
Application number: EP08774147A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Bernhard Banowski; Marcus Claas; Nadine Buse
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2007-06-20
Filing date: 2008-06-19
Publication date: 2010-03-31
Also published as: DE102008028822A1; WO2008155382A3; WO2008155382A2; WO2008155382A8

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic sticks based on an oil-in-water dispersion/emulsion for application to the skin.

Description

Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Augustin-Castro / yes 19.06.2008

Cosmetic stick based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion with a hydrogel former

The invention relates to cosmetic sticks based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion with a hydrogel forming agent for the application of cosmetic active ingredients to the skin.

Commercially available cosmetic compositions are usually formulated as creams or lotions which are taken from a crucible, a tube, a bottle or a pump dispenser; In addition, there are roll-on preparations, sprays and (compact) powder in the market. For consumers, stick preparations for the application of both decorative and nourishing cosmetics enjoy high popularity. They are handy, transport stable and comfortable to apply. Increasingly, there is a need among consumers for compositions that in addition to the basic function, ie z. As the covering of skin blemishes or matting greasy skin, even more care and treatment effects, eg. As by antibacterial or soothing agents, and at the same time convey a pleasant, fresh feel on the skin. Many stick-shaped preparations are formulated as anhydrous suspension sticks. Such preparations leave the user a pleasantly dry skin feeling after application. However, an effective release of the water-soluble active ingredients from such preparations is limited and it is usually not achieved by many consumers estimated freshness feeling. Anhydrous stick preparations, especially those based on volatile silicone oils, have the disadvantage that the dispersed active ingredients easily lead to visible product residues on the skin and clothing. In addition, such preparations are relatively expensive, since the oil components are more expensive than drug carriers than water. Under the pressure load during the application it comes often to a Ausölen, which reduces the cosmetic acceptance of these preparations with the user.

Opposite water-free pens, as known, for example, from US Pat. No. 5,733,534 and WO 00/67713 A1, have emulsion sticks, as disclosed, for example, in WO 98/17238 A1, US Pat. No. 4,814,165, DE 2,335,549, US Pat. No. 4,725,431, US Pat. No. 5,466,457 and US Pat , several advantages. Replacement of the wax and oil additives with water makes the emulsion sticks less expensive to produce. The emulsified waxes give a soft, light skin feel, and Finally, water-soluble cosmetic active ingredients can be more easily delivered to the skin, since they are already present in dissolved form in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. US 20020051758 A1 discloses water-containing antiperspirant sticks without W / O emulsifier and high-melting wax, which contain a siliconized polyamide as consistency or Structurant. According to claim 1 of WO 02/017870 A2, the aqueous phase forms the internal, ie dispersed phase, so that the disclosed gels are water-in-oil emulsions.

US 20020072506 A1 discloses water-based antiperspirant sticks based on a water-in-oil emulsion, the acylated cellobiose as consistency regulator or structurant and a high proportion of unfavorable silicone and hydrocarbon oils according to the invention, furthermore neither oil-in-water Emulsifiers still contain a high-melting wax.

The emulsion sticks of the cited prior art are formulated on the basis of a water-in-oil dispersion / emulsion, ie, the water-soluble active ingredients are present in the inner, dispersed phase and must first migrate through the outer, lipophilic layer after application in order to obtain their To reach the place of action on the skin. As a result, the known water-in-oil emulsion sticks have similar disadvantages in terms of the availability of active ingredients as anhydrous suspension sticks.

US 6428776 discloses water and oil-containing, wax-free antiperspirant sticks based on an oil-in-water emulsion. Such pens have inadequate cosmetic properties, leave unpleasant sticky and visible residues, and show insufficient stability for prolonged use. An example with glycerin monostearate as a W / O emulsifier and octyl dodecanol as the oil component has a medium-firm consistency and a greasy feel on the skin and begins to soften at 50 ⁰ C.

In WO 99/59537 A1 hydrous cosmetic sticks are disclosed, the wax components with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifiers, a non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7, and contain a polyol. Some of the sticks contain liquid oil components at 25 ° C which, unlike the sticks of the present application, can not be incorporated at the beginning of the emulsion process, but the actual stick mass as a pre-emulsified concentrate, for example as a microemulsion or PIT emulsion, during the cooling phase Stick mass at a temperature of about 55 ° C are added with stirring. Such a first method is necessary in order not to jeopardize or even destroy the stability of the system, a dispersion of lipid and wax crystals. The pins of WO 99/59537 A1 were readjusted and their conductivity or electrical resistance was measured. It has been found that the pins of WO 99/59537 A1 are water-in-oil systems.

US 20030103921 A1 discloses structured antiperspirant compositions in the form of a microemulsion which, depending on the nature and amount of the surfactants, represents an oil-in-water microemulsion or a water-in-oil microemulsion or a bicontinuous phase, but in which together with the bicontinuous phase prevails. The (transparent) microemulsions are thickened by an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant." The oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant" is selected from esters and amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, esters and amides of N-acyl amino acids, esters and amides of di- and tricarboxylic acids , Sterols, sterol esters such as oryzanol, cellobiose fatty acid esters, sugar esters such as acylated maltose and non-crosslinked oil-soluble or oil-dispersible polymeric oil phase thickeners such as the commercial product Kraton G. Furthermore, nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 2-15, preferably with an HLB Value under 12, included. Polyols are merely disclosed as optional. At no point is a possible importance of coordinating the solubility parameters of W / O emulsifiers and oil components revealed to each other. The structural difference between these compositions and the oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion sticks of the present invention, which are not microemulsions, is particularly evident in the high proportion of 19-66% by weight of the total composition of unfavorable silicone of the present invention and (paraffinic) hydrocarbon oils, all of which are disclosed.

In the laid-open specifications DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 are deodorant or antiperspirant creams based on an oil-in-water emulsion disclosed at 21 ⁰ C a viscosity of at least 50,000 mPa-s, preferably in the range from 200,000 to 1,500,000 mPa.s, that is, they are in viscous to highly viscous pasty form. These creams contain wax components with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, non-ionic water-in-oil emulsifiers, non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7 and a polyol. As soft creams, they can be applied either only with the fingers, which is rejected by many consumers as impractical, or the creams must be filled in special applicators that are significantly more expensive than the pen sleeves for the cosmetic sticks of the invention. If the compositions disclosed in DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 were allowed to cool statically, that is to say without stirring, after heating and mixing, pen-like compositions having generally unfavorable application properties such as poor feel and / or lack of stability, For example, by phase separation or condensation, since the emulsifiers and the oils are not matched to one another in terms of their solubility parameters as in the present invention.

US 20060029624 A1 discloses deodorant or antiperspirant sticks in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion, the at least one wax component having a melting point> 50 ⁰ C, at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more as 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier system having an average HLB value in the range of 10 to 19, at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0 which can with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier gators form liquid crystalline structures, as bodying agents and / or water binder, at least one at 20 ⁰ C liquid oil, the perfume component and no no etheric oil wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the total of the oils contained in the presence of linear saturated fatty alcohols as water-in-oil emulsifier or as part of a water-in-oil emulsifier mixture by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ and in the presence of water-in-oil emulsifiers, which are different from linear saturated fatty alcohols, in the absence of linear saturated fatty alcohols as water. in-oil emulsifier by a maximum of -0.4 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or a maximum of +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / the water-in-oil emulsifiers deviates, at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, 5 to less than 50% by weight Water, based on the total composition and at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active ingredient, where wherein the pen has a penetration force value in the range of 200 - 600 gram force (g-force) at a penetration depth of 5,000 mm and an electrical resistance of a maximum of 300 kΩ (kilo-ohms). However, it has been found that the application behavior of the pens disclosed in US 20060029624 A1 could be improved, in particular with respect to the lubricity on the skin. It has also been found that the pens disclosed in US 20060029624 A1 should be improved in feel and tack. It was found that the range of suitable oil components was too narrow, especially for those sticks which did not contain linear fatty alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms as W / O emulsifier, and some lower sticky and better spreading oil components had not been considered for stability reasons ,

It was therefore an object to develop a cosmetic stick composition which is suitable as an effective carrier for cosmetic active ingredients and allows rapid release of the active ingredient on the skin.

Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition with excellent cosmetic care properties.

Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition, on the one hand high stability, ie strength, but on the other hand has a pleasant release behavior, so it is not too firm, but can easily be painted over the skin and emits a sufficient amount of product.

Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition that leaves as little sticky or visible residue as possible when applied to the skin. Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition that leaves as little visible residue on the clothing that comes in contact with the treated skin.

Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition that is easy to wash off the skin.

Another object was to develop a cosmetic stick composition with an economically and application-friendly cost-performance ratio. It was a further object to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, which allows large scale manufacture of stable sticks of suitable consistency.

Another object was to develop a stick composition, especially a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, with a further reduced oily skin feel.

Another object was to develop a stick composition, in particular a stick-type deodorant or antiperspirant composition, the composition of which permits optimization of the manufacturing and / or filling process.

Surprisingly and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art, these objects were achieved by the subject of the present application, namely a cosmetic stick composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion which does not represent a microemulsion

a) at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), b) at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7 within a ÖI- in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 1 1 - 17, c) at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0, with Water, alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, can form liquid-crystalline structures, as bodying agents and / or water binders, d) at least one liquid under normal conditions which is not a fragrance component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the entirety of the contained Oils d) by a maximum of -1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most +1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water -in-oil emulsifiers c) differs, e) mi at least one water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, f) from 6 to 75% by weight of water, based on the total composition, g ) at least one polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance, wherein mixtures of guar gum, locust bean gum and pectin are excluded, h) a total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants having an HLB value above 8 of at most 20 wt .-%, based on the whole stick composition, i) at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient selected from antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing, epithelizing, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulation-promoting, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin-whitening sebum-regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or lustering active substances, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances.

All information on the states of aggregation of the starting materials used (solid, liquid ...) in this application are based on normal conditions. For the purposes of the present application, "normal conditions" are a temperature of 20 ^° C. and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar. Melting point data likewise refer to a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.

The wax component having a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C formed with the / oil / s and optionally other higher-melting wax components a gel matrix, larger amounts may take on water and polyol. These structures, which are stabilized by certain amounts of water-in-oil emulsifiers and oil-in-water emulsifiers, leave a fresh, cooling impression due to their water content in use. The emulsifiers are coordinated so that the stick compositions according to the invention are present in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion. The stick compositions according to the invention are not present as a microemulsion. To produce the stick compositions according to the invention, the water phase and the oil phase have heated to a temperature of at least 70 ⁰ C and hot, ie at least 70 ⁰ C, are stirred together or homogenized to achieve the emulsion structure of the invention. A manufacturing method, as disclosed, for example, in US 4,205,062 (kneading of fat and water phase at 65 ° C) is not sufficient to obtain a stick composition, in particular a homogeneous stick composition, based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion , Without wishing to be bound by this theory, it is believed that the oil-in-water emulsifiers together with some of the water-in-oil emulsifiers form lamellar liquid crystal phases, which are built up with a portion of the water to form a hydrophilic gel phase. This hydrophilic gel phase surrounds the aqueous bulk phase. In turn, in this aqueous bulk phase are dispersed the lipophilic components surrounded by a lipophilic gel phase formed by the water-in-oil emulsifiers with a portion of the oil-in-water emulsifiers and some water.

The solidification of the cosmetic sticks according to the invention does not take place on the basis of soap gels or fatty acid salt gels, fatty acids being alkane, alkene and alkyric acids having at least 4 carbon atoms which are substituted, for example with hydroxyl groups. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic sticks according to the invention are free from soap gels or fatty acid salt gels, in particular free from lithium, sodium, potassium, ammonium, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts of fatty acids.

Surprisingly, it was found that the incorporation of selected hydrogel-forming substances in the water phase, the content of wax component a) having a melting point> 50 ⁰ C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c) can be reduced without the inventive Pens lose stability. The sticks according to the invention are therefore characterized by a content of at least one polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance, wherein mixtures of guar gum, locust bean gum and pectin are excluded.

By the content of such a hydrogel or water-swellable thickening agent, not only the amount of wax component a) is having a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, the) or c) is not the components b attributable to be reduced, but it may also the stability of the invention Compositions are significantly improved, in particular during the manufacturing and filling process. In addition, the hydrogel former prevents the sedimentation of individual components, for example optionally present insoluble fillers, during the static cooling. Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic polymeric hydrogel former selected from water-soluble cellulose ethers, especially hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, furthermore xanthan Gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, especially guar gums and locust bean gum, especially guar gum and locust bean gum itself and the nonionic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives and locust bean gum derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl guar, hydroxyethyl guar and carboxy - methylguar, pectins, agar, carragheen (carrageenan), tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, gelatin, casein, propylene glycol alginic acids and their salts, in particular sodium alginate, potassium alginate and calcium alginate, furthermore polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylamides, furthermore - albeit less preferred - physically (eg. By Vorverkleisterung) and / or chemically modified starches, especially hydroxypropylated starch phosphates and Octenylstärkesuccinaten and their aluminum, calcium or sodium salts, further - also less preferred - water-soluble acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylformamide copolymers and polyacrylates. Hydrogel formers comprising mixtures of guar gum, locust bean gum and pectin are excluded. The aforementioned hydrogel formers can be classified as nonionic and ionic hydrogel formers. The hydroxypropylated starch phosphates and octenyl starch succinates and their aluminum, calcium or sodium salts and the less preferred water-soluble acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylic acid-vinyl formamide copolymers and polyacrylates are ionic hydrogel formers ,

The water-soluble cellulose ethers, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses, in particular hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, represent nonionic hydrogel formers. Also nonionic are the polygalactomannans, in particular guar gums, taragum and locust bean gum, and the glucans, especially sclerotium gum and curdlan. Also nonionic is starch. The polysaccharides pectins, in particular fruit pectins, preferably apple pectin, furthermore xanthan gum, carrageenan, succinoglucans and agar agar contain acid group-substituted sugar units, for example galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, sulfates or succinic acid, and are therefore anionic.

A particularly preferred anionic hydrogel former is carrageenan, especially kappa carrageenan. Further particularly preferred anionic hydrogel formers are pectins, in particular fruit pectins, preferably apple pectin.

The addition of the at least one hydrogel former improves the application properties of the pens in a surprising, unexpected manner: the pens containing hydrogel formers have a very smooth, very white surface and show a uniform, homogeneous structure. Furthermore, the pins according to the invention cause a pleasant cool skin feeling during application. A particular advantage of the hydrogel former is that it increases the viscosity of the molten stick mass, which brings with it advantages in the filling in the pen cases. In particular, the escape of the melt from the packaging and sedimentation problems are avoided.

Further preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic polymeric hydrogel former in a total amount of 0.1-3.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 1, 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.7 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition according to the invention, with mixtures of guar gum, locust bean gum and pectin are excluded.

Further preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one nonionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance in a total amount of 0.08 to 0.7 wt .-%, preferably 0.11 to 0.5 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.19 0.4% by weight and most preferably 0.25-0.3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition according to the invention. Further preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one nonionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance, preferably selected from starch, in a total amount of 0.08-0.7% by weight, preferably 0.1-1.0, 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.19 to 0.4 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 0.25 to 0.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition according to the invention is included.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one organic polymeric hydrogel former selected from guar gum (guar gum), locust bean gum, taragum, agar-agar, curdlan, polygalactomannans, polyglucans, pectin (s) , water-soluble cellulose ethers, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses, in particular hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose and methylhydroxyethylcellulose, and mixtures thereof, mixtures of guar gum, locust bean gum and pectin being excluded, in a total amount of 0, 1 - 3.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.3 - 2, 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 1, 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.7 - 1, 0 wt .-% , in each case based on the weight of the total composition according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance is present in a total amount of 0.25-1.5% by weight, preferably 0.4-1.2% by weight, more preferably 0.52-1.1% by weight, and most preferably 0.6-1.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one anionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance, preferably selected from carrageenan, in particular kappa carrageenan, pectins, in particular fruit pectins, preferably apple pectin, in a total amount of 0.25-1, 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1, 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.52 to 1, 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.6 to 1, 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition of the invention is included.

Preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one cosmetic active ingredient is dissolved in the outer, continuous aqueous phase. The O / W emulsion base of the stick compositions of the present invention provides significantly improved and more efficient drug delivery compared to the known anhydrous ones Suspension sticks and water-in-oil emulsion sticks. This release of active ingredient can be indirectly determined very well by measuring the electrical resistance of the respective product. The measurement of the electrical resistance of such compositions is also a suitable method for quickly and easily distinguishing between an oil-in-water and a water-in-oil system. An oil-in-water system has a high electrical conductivity due to the continuous water phase and consequently a low electrical resistance. The exact measuring arrangement and the performance of the measurement are described below (see below). The pins according to the invention accordingly have an electrical resistance of preferably not more than 300 kΩ, more preferably of not more than 100 kΩ, and most preferably of not more than 80 kΩ. In contrast, the pins disclosed in WO 98/17238 A1 have an electrical resistance of more than 3000 kΩ; it is therefore a water-in-oil system.

In addition to the favorable release of active ingredient, the formulation as an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion brings with it further advantages. First, the composition can be easily washed off the skin. On the other hand, a nourishing oil-in-water cream can form together with the skin moisture during or after application to the skin. Surprisingly, and unforeseeable for the skilled worker, it has been found that the oil components and the water-in-oil emulsifier or the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture must be matched with respect to their solubility parameters in order to make stick compositions with satisfactory performance To form hardening. In the definition of the solubility parameter in the context of the present invention, reference is made to the publication "Solubility - Effects in Product, Package, Penetration and Preservation" by Chr. D. Vaughan in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, October 1988, pages 47 - 69. The values of the solubility parameters published there are listed in the non-Sl unit (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ^{5. For the} sake of simplicity, this non-Sl unit should be retained in this document , 1860 Joule, the values can be easily converted.

Many of the solubility parameters tabulated by Vaughan in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol 103, October 1988, pages 47-69, have been calculated according to the Hildebrand equation (see CD, Vaughan: J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., Vol. Pages 319-333 (Sept./Oct., 1985) and the Hildebrand equation cited therein, and J. Am. Chem. Soc, Vol. 38, pp. 1442-1473 (1916) and J. Hildebrand and R. Scott: The Solubility of Nonelectrolytes, 3rd Edition, Reinhold Publ. Corp., New York, 1949) and below. Vaughan points out that the solubility parameters can not only be calculated according to the Hildebrand equation but also, for example, with the aid of the enthalpy of vaporization (according to Scatchard, J. Am. Chem. Soc., Vol. 38, page 321 (1916)). All methods of determination may result in different values of the solubility parameter, especially if the chemical material has an acid or base function. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred that the adjustment of the solubility parameters of the oil components and of the water-in-oil emulsifier or of the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture is carried out only for solubility parameter values, each after the same Method were determined. Particularly preferred are the solubility parameter values obtained according to the Hildebrand equation (see CD, Vaughan: J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., Vol. 36, pp. 319-333 (Sept./Oct., 1985)) used the balance according to the invention. If no solubility parameter value pair determined by the same method is available for a particular combination of oil component and water-in-oil emulsifier, values determined by various, including experimental, methods may also be used. However, the latter is less preferred according to the invention.

Table 1: Solubility parameters of various chemical components (from Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, October 1988, pages 47-69)

references

NOTE: ^* = Solubility parameter values from the literature Citation information for the origin of the solubility parameters:

A. Aldrich Chemical Co, Catalog 1986 gram

B. Beilstein's Index

C. Chemical Rubber Handbook of Chemistry & Physics, 42d Ed., (1961-1962)

D. Dictionary of Organic Compounds

E. Eastman Organic Chemical Bulletin 47, No.1, 1975

F. Fisher Scientific Catalog - 1986

G. Group Contribution Method of Hay, Van Krevelen and Feodors.

H. HANDBOOK OF SOLUBILITY PARAMETERS, A.F. Barton, Chemical Rubber Publ.1985

I. INDUSTRIAL WAXES, H. Bennett, Chemical Pub. Co.

J. Journal Reference by number 0 (x).

J1. J. Pharm. Sci. 75, (7), 639

J2. Pharm. Acta HeIv., 48, 549 (1973)

J3. At the. Cosmet. Perf., 87, page 85 (1972)

K. Kolthof & Elving: Treatise on Analytical Chemistry

L. Laboratory Determination by

L (1) -Consolubilizer Study

L (2) Solubility Study Unpublished

M. Manufacturer's Physical Date by Personal Communication

N. Hildebrand & Scott: The Solubility of Nonelectrolytes. Dover Press

O. Original published values JSCC 36, 319

P. Pharm. Acta HeIv. 81, (3), 95 Antimicrobial Activity and Solubility Parameters-C.V./F.W.

In the inventive stick compositions of the (average) solubility parameter of the entirety of the oils differ by a maximum of - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5 or a maximum of + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³⁾ ^0' ^5, preferably by a maximum of -0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most + 0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ , more preferably by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or maximum +0.7 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5, extraordinarily preferably by a maximum of 0.6 (cal / cm ³⁾ ^0' ⁵ or a maximum of +0.4 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5 from the (average ) Solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers.

If water-in-oil emulsifier mixtures or oil mixtures are used, the mean solubility parameter of the mixture is considered in each case, the arithmetic mean being considered according to the weight fraction of the individual components. In the present invention, it is also possible that a weight fraction of the used liquid under normal conditions oils not exceeding 20 wt .-% consisting of oils, whose solubility parameter is more than - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5 or greater than + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ deviates from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier (mixture) s. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention no liquid under normal conditions oils are contained, the solubility by more than + 1, 2 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water deviates from in-oil emulsifiers.

wax matrix

The wax matrix of the stick compositions according to the invention comprises at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, which is not the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers with an HLB value of more than 7 or the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB Value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier.

In general, waxes of solid to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not glassy, and melt above 50 ⁰ C without decomposition. They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.

Preference according to the invention, for example, natural vegetable waxes, z. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. Synthetic waxes, which are also preferable in the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂ oC _4O dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C ₃₀ - ₅₀ alkyl and alkylaryl esters of -Alkylbienenwachs and dimer fatty acids.

A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated Cs-Cs-monocarboxylic acid. For this purpose also include lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have been found to be particularly advantageous for the composition of the present invention because they give the antiperspirant preparation excellent sensory properties and pen altogether give a high stability. The esters are composed of saturated, branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated, branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Also, esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg., 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols are used according to the invention, provided that the wax component has a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated, branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms, which has a melting point > 50 ⁰ C have.

In particular, as the wax component C _{_16-36} alkyl stearates and C ₁₈ - ₃₈ -Alkylhydroxystearoyl- stearate, C ₂ o ^ o-Alkylerucate and cetearyl be advantageous. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ⁰ C, preferably> 60 ⁰ C, on.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C _2O- C ₄₀ -AI kylstea rat. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® ^® K82H or Kesterwachs K80H, sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..

Further preferred wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C ₁₂ - ₃ o-fatty acids such as hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin), or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, further synthetic Vollester of fatty acids and glycols or polyols containing 2 - 6 carbon atoms as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example, preferably C ₈ - C ₃₆ acid triglyceride (Syncrowax HGL-C ^®). According to the invention hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as wax component is available. B. as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, particularly preferred.

Further preferred wax components having a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, for. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ - C ₃₆ -FeH- acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid). Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -Alka- nol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C ₂ oC ₄ o-alkyl stearate, Glycerintriestern of saturated linear C ₁₂ - C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C ₁₄ - C ₃₆ carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkyl stearate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from mixtures of esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆ o-alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, in particular C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ Alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular hydrogenated castor oil, and saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ -carboxylic acids, in particular palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Further preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component / na) is used in total in amounts of 2.5-20% by weight, preferably 6.5-14% by weight, most preferably 9-13% by weight, based on the total composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester (s) of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid representing the wax component (s) are / are in amounts of 1 , 5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 6 wt .-%, most preferably 3 - 5.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, wherein also values between 3.5 and 5.5 Wt .-%, in particular 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5.2 and 5.4 wt .-%, may be particularly preferred.

Oil-in-water emulsifiers

The stick compositions of the invention contain at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB of greater than 7, with the total oil-in-water emulsifier system having a weight-average (weight-average) HLB in the range of 11-17. These are emulsifiers which are generally known to the person skilled in the art, as are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Volume 8, pages 913-916. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent. In selecting nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier system is 1 to 17, preferably 12 to 15 and particularly preferably 13 to 14. In order to achieve such HLB values, oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10 - 14, 14 - 16 and optionally 15 - 17 combined. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures (or oil-in-water emulsifier systems) may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 17-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the sticks according to the invention, in particular the deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13 - 14, included.

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers b) are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols having an average of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids an average of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with an average of 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C _{12 to} C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or Mixtures of these fatty acids, silicone copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and - oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated Cs - C ₃₀ fatty acid residues esterified, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle one Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide onto technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ O is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 to 100, preferably 10 to 30, moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid , Arachyic, gadoleic, behenic, erucic and brassidic acids and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.

Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10 to 30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth- 30, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20.

Preferred ones having on average 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80. Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidic bond C containing ₈ -C ₆ - alkyl group at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1 - 2, in particular 1, 2 - 1, 4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are selected from octylglucoside, decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, palmitylglucoside, isostearylglucoside, stearylglucoside, arachidylglucoside and behenylglucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers.

Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol. Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, if they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred are Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerin- monocaprylate, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, hexa- glycerol monostearate, monolaurate Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, Decaglycerin-, decaglyceryl monomyristate , Decaglycerol monoisostearate, decaglycerol monostearate, decaglycerol monooleate, decaglycerol monohydroxystearate, decaglyceryl dicaprylate,

Decaglycerin dicaprate, decaglycerol dilaurate, decaglycerol dimethacrylate, decaglycerol diisostearate, decaglycerol distearate, decaglycerol dioleate, decaglycerol dihydroxystearate,

Decaglycerin tricaprylate, decaglycerin tricaprate, decaglycerol trilaurate, decaglycerin trimyristate, decaglycerol triisostearate, decaglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol trioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier b) in a total amount of 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-4% by weight and most preferably 1.5% - 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is contained, wherein values between 1 and 1, 5, in particular 1, 2, 1, 3 and 1, 4 wt .-%, may be particularly preferred.

Water-in-oil emulsifiers

The stick compositions according to the invention furthermore contain at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier Bodying agent and / or water binder. The water-in-oil emulsifier (s) primarily contribute to the build-up of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase. In principle, emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are suitable nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these emulsifiers are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Volume 8, page 913. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated.

As water-in-oil emulsifier are preferred: linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and Lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, as obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,

Esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 2 to 6 C atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 30, in particular 14 to 22, C atoms which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. The mono- and diesters of glycerol or ethylene glycol or the monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids, the pentaerythrityl mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters and Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, of which the mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids are particularly preferred. 30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency regulator and / or water binder. Particularly preferred according to the invention are the mono- and diesters. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Particularly preferred nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof;

Sterols, ie steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO); Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value of greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit,

Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, if appropriate hydroxylated C ₈ - C ₃₀ -FeH acid residues esterified, if they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the inventive composition Compositions, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Particularly advantageous water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, in particular in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monohydroxystearate, glyceryl monooleate, Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan myristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2) , Steareth-5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol mon stearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerol pentahydroxystearate, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate.

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier c) having an HLB value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0, the liquid crystalline with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier May be formed from linear, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkanols, ethylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, glycerol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, propylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, sorbitan mono-, di- and triesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, pentaerythrityl mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of linear, sat ttigten and unsaturated C ₁₂ - C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, Methylglucosemono- mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ - C ₃₀ - carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, sterols, alkanols and carboxylic acids with 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in the alkyl group and 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0, glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated , branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ Fatty acid residues esterified, provided they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic / water-in-oil emulsifier / s c) with an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than / equal to 7.0, the / with water alone or can form liquid-crystalline structures with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, selected from the mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters of ethylene glycol or pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated. According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -FeH acid radicals which are preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachnic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers which are particularly preferred according to the invention and have an HLB value of greater than 1.0 and less than 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. The water-in-oil emulsifier (s) primarily contribute to the build-up of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase. The particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0, and less than or equal to 7.0 are, for example, as commercial products Cutina PES (INCI: pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina AGS (INCI: glycol distearate) or Cutina EGMS (INCI: Glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contain). According to the invention it may be preferred to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. A commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is meant, for example, a technical mixture.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic / water-in-oil emulsifier (s) c) with an HLB value of greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, the / with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier can form liquid-crystalline structures, in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-% and most preferably 1-4 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, is / are. Furthermore, amounts of from 2 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, according to the invention may also be extremely preferred, with particular reference to contents of 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5 , 2.6, 2.7, 2.8 and 2.9 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

The following table summarizes various oil-in-water emulsifiers and water-in-oil emulsifiers and their HLB values. However, the HLB values can also be calculated according to Griffin, as described, for example, in the RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, in particular in US Pat Online version of November 2003, and the manuals cited there under the keyword "HLB system" by Fiedler, Kirk-Othmer and Janistyn is tabulated or tabulated.If there is different information in the literature on the HLB value of a substance, the should HLB value for the teaching according to the invention which comes closest to the value calculated according to Griffin If the HLB value can not be determined in this way, the HLB value stated by the manufacturer of the emulsifier is used for the If this is also not possible, the HLB value must be determined experimentally.

HLB value Chemical name

1 triglycerides of saturated fatty acids

glyceryl

1, 5 ethylene glycol distearate

1, 6 pure celline oil

1, 8 sorbitan trioleate

dioleate

2.1 sorbitan tristearate

2,4 propylene glycol lactostearate

2.7 glycerol monooleate

Sorbitdioleat

2.8 glycerol monostearate

Propylene glycol mono- / distearate, not self-emulsifying

2.9 ethylene glycol monostearate

3.0 decaglycerol decaoleate

Decaglycerindecastearat

General 122 (Rapeseed Sterols)

sucrose distearate

3.1 decaglycerine deca oleate

glyceryl

Pentaerythritylmonostearat

Pentaerythritylsesquioleat

3.2 ethylene glycol monodistearate, not self-emulsifying

Glycol

3.3 glycerol monolaurate

3,4 propylene glycol monostearate

3,5 ethylene glycol monostearate

Pentaerythritylmonooleat

Polyethylene glycol (100) monooleate

3,6 glycerol mono- / dioleate, not self-emulsifying Monoethoxylaurylether

3.7 sorbitan sesquioleate (Dehymuls SSO)

3.8 glycerol monodistearate, non-self-emulsifying polyethylene glycol (100) monostearate diglycerol sesquioleate N, N-dimethyl caproamide pentaerythritol monotallate propylene glycol monolaurate

4.0 decaglycerol octaoleate

4.3 Sorbitan monooleate (Dehymuls SMO) Diethylene glycol monostearate

4.4 1.2-propylene glycol monodistearate, self-emulsifying

4.5 Glycerol monostearate palmitate (90%), non-self-emulsifying propylene glycol monolaurate

4.7 Sorbitan monostearate (Dehymuls SMS) Diethylene glycol monooleate

4.8 Pentaerythritol monolaurate

4.9 polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether) polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether)

5.0 ethylene glycol monodistearate

General 122 E 5 (PEG-5 Soy Sterol)

Polyethylene glycol (100) monoricinoleate

Polyethylene glycol (200) distearate

Polyglyceryl-3-isostearates (eg Isolan Gl 34 from Tego) 5.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) dilaurate

6.0 Decaglycerin tetraoleate Polyethylene glycol (100) Monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (200) Dioleate

6.1 Diethylene glycol monolaurate (diglycollaurate)

6.3 Polyethylene glycol (300) dilaurate

6.4 Glycerol monoricinoleate Glycerol sorbitan monolaurate

6.5 Diethylene glycol monolaurate Sodium mestearoyl-2-lactylate

6.7 Sorbitan monopalmitate

6.8 Glycerol monococoate glycerol monolaurate

7.0 Polyoxyethylene (2) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, Laureth-2 (Dehydol LS 2) sucrose distearate 7.2 Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate sucrose dioleate

7.4 Polyethylene glycol (100) monolaurate sucrose dipalmitate

7.5 sucrose dipalmitate

7.6 Glycerol sorbitan laurate

7.8 Polyethylene glycol (400) distearate

7.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate polyoxyethylene (3) tridecyl alcohol

8-8.2 polyethyleneglycol (400) distearate

8.0 polyoxyethylene (3) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, Laureth-3 (Dehydol LS 3)

N, N-dimethyl lauramide

Sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl-2-lactylate

Polyethylene glycol (200) monooleate

Polyethylene glycol (220) monotallate

Polyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate

Polyoxyethylene (4) oleyl alcohol

Polyoxyethylene (4) stearylcetylether

8.2 triglycerol monooleate

8.3 Diethylene glycol monolaurate

8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.5 Sodium caproyl lactylate Polyethylene glycol (200) Monostearate Sorbitan monooleate

8.6 Sorbitan monolaurate (Dehymuls SML) Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate

8.8 Polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate

8.9 Nonylphenol, polyoxyethylated with 4 moles EO 9.0 Oleth-5 (eg Eumulgin O 5)

9.2-9.7 polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl alcohol (depending on the commercial product, eg Brij 30,

Dehydol LS 4)

9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecyl alcohol

9.6 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate 9.8 Polyethylene glycol (200) Monolaurate 10-1 1 Polyethylene glycol (400) Monooleate 10.0 Didodecyldimethylammonium chloride 10.0 Polyethylene glycol (200) Monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (400) dilaurate polyethylene glycol (600) dioleate polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate 10.2 polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate

10.4-10.6 polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate

10.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate

10.6 sucrose monostearate

10.7 sucrose monooleate

11-11, 4 polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate

11.0 Polyethylene glycol (350) Monostearate Polyethylene glycol (400) Monotalate Polyoxyethylene glycol (7) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene glycol (8) Mono-oleate Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol

11.1 Polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate

.1, 2 polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate sucrose monooleate sucrose monostearate

11, 4 polyoxyethylene (50) sorbitol hexaoleate sucrose monotallate sucrose stearate palmitate

11.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monoricinoleate

11.7 sucrose monomyristate sucrose monopalmitate

12.0 PEG-10 Soy Sterol (eg General 122 E 10)

triethanolamine

12.2-12.3 nonylphenol ethoxylated with 8 moles of EO 12.2 sucrose monomyristate

12.4 sucrose monolaurate

Polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether

12.5 polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl cetyl ether

12.7 Polyoxyethylene (8) tridecyl alcohol

12.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate sucrose monococoate

12.9 Polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether

13 glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 moles EO) 13.0 eumulgin O 10 eumulgin 286 eumulgin B 1 (ceteareth-12)

13.0 C12 fatty amines, ethoxylated (5 moles EO)

13.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 mol EO)

13.2 Polyethylene glycol (600) monostearate polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil

13.3 polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate 13.5 nonylphenol, ethoxylated (10.5 mol EO)

Polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate

13.7 Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl alcohol Polyethylene glycol (660) Monotalate Polyethylene glycol (1500) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene glycol (1500) Dioleate

13.9 Polyethylene glycol (400) monococoate

Polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate

14-16 Eumulgin HRE 40 (castor oil ethoxylated with 40 EO and hydrogenated) 14.0 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether

tridecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (12)

14.2 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol

14.3 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl cetyl ether

14.4 Mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 moles EO

14.5 polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol

14.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate

14.9-15.2 sorbitan monostearate, ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg eumulgin SMS 20) 15-15.9 sorbitan monooleate, ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg, Eumulgin SMO 20) 15.0 PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (e.g. B. Cutina E 24)

PEG-40 Castor OiI (eg Eumulgin RO 40) Decylglucoside (Oramix NS 10) Dodecylglucoside (Plantaren APG 600) Dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 15 moles EO Polyethylene glycol (1000) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (600) Monooleate 15-17 Eumulgin HRE 60 (Castor oil, ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated)

15.3 C12 fatty amines polyoxyethylated with 12 moles EO polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether

15.4 polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl cetyl ether (eg eumulgin B 2 (ceteareth-20))

15.5 polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl alcohol 15.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate

15.7 Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether

15.9 g of disodium triethanolamine stearylheptaglycol ether sulfosuccinate 16.0 g of nonylphenol ethoxylated with 20 moles of EO

Polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate 16 - 16.8 polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate 16.3-16.9 polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate

16.5 - 16.7 polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (eg Eumulgin SML 20)

16.6 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitol

16.7 C18 fatty amines polyoxyethylated with 5 moles EO polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol

17.0 Ceteareth-30, z. B. Eumulgin B 3 Octylglucoside (Triton CG 110) Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate

17.1 Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 30 moles EO 17.4 polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol

Further preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 18% by weight, preferably not more than 15% by weight, particularly preferably not more than 10% by weight , particularly preferably at most 7 wt .-%, more preferably at most 4 wt .-% and most preferably at most 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention is.

oils

The stick compositions according to the invention further contain at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a fragrance component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or maximum + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ , preferably by a maximum of -0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or a maximum of +0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ , more preferably by maximum - 0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most + 0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ , most preferably by a maximum of - 0.6 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most + 0.4 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ deviates from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers.

The tuning of the oil (s) used to the water-in-oil emulsifier (s) used is an important parameter of this invention. The water-in-oil emulsifier and oil component (s) do not fit within the solubility parameter the claimed limits together, you get pins with an application technology not satisfactory hardness and stability. According to the invention preferred oils are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _{_8-22} alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® EB, and Benzoesäureoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® BOD. Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24 , Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^®, ^® Isocarb 16 or lsocarb ^® 24th

Other preferred oil components are Guerbet alcohols and esters mixtures of Guerbetalkohol-, for example the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate). Further according to the invention preferred oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - ₃ o-fatty acids. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. As the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues. Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n -butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further according to the invention particularly preferred oils are selected from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C _{_8-22} alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®).

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also suitably suitable are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyl octanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate. Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C ₃ . ₂₂ -alkanols such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E).

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ -FeH alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _{14 /} -i ₅ alkanols, eg. B. and in the 2-position branched C _{2 /} i ₃ alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, to refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI, Cosmacol ^® EMI and Cosmacol ^® EIT.

Oils which are only usable in small amounts or not at all with regard to the solubility parameter tuning are selected from the symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE 19756454 A1.

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ - C ₆ -alkanols.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. Preferred cosmetic sticks invention are characterized in that the liquid under normal conditions the oil d) is selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - ₃ o-fatty acids, Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, adducts of 1 to 5 propylene oxide Units of monovalent or polyvalent C ₈ . ₂₂ -alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C ₃ . ₂₂ -alkanols, C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyfunctional linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. It may be extremely preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils in order to achieve optimum fine-tuning of the stick properties, such as pencil hardness, residue behavior, abrasion properties or release of active ingredient.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the liquid (s) oil (s) under normal conditions is in a total amount of 3 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 14, particularly preferably 6 to 12% by weight on the total weight of the composition, is / are.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the proportion of oil (s) whose solubility parameter is greater than -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or greater than + 1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, a maximum of 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of liquid under normal conditions oils. In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention no liquid under normal conditions oils are contained, the solubility by more than + 1, 2 (cal / cm ³⁾ ⁰ ^'5 from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water -in-oil emulsifiers deviates.

Corresponding less suitable or (depending on the water-in-oil emulsifier used) even unsuitable oil components are, for example, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Silicone oils, which z. For example, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, have solubility parameters in the range of about 5.7 to 6.3 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ on, which differs by more than 1, 2 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the value of the water-in-oil emulsifiers used in the invention.

Natural and synthetic hydrocarbons such as paraffin oils, isoparaffins, in particular isohexadecane, isoeicosane, polyisobutenes or polydecenes, which are obtainable for example under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase ^® 2004G from Nestle, and 1 , 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) also belong to the present invention less preferred oil components. The proportion of silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons in a preferred embodiment of the invention should therefore not be greater than 20%, based on the total weight of oils which are liquid under normal conditions, otherwise the sticks according to the invention will not achieve the hardness and stability desired in terms of application. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, no silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons, in particular no paraffin or isoparaffin hydrocarbons, are contained. According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they are free of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible oil phase thickening components selected from the amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, esters and amides of N-acylamino acids, esters and amides of di- and tricarboxylic acids, sterols, sterol esters in particular oryzanol, cellobiose fatty acid esters, sugar esters, in particular acylated maltose, and non-crosslinked oil-soluble or oil-dispersible polymeric oil phase thickeners, in particular styrene block copolymers with ethylene, propylene and / or butylene and with mixtures of these alkenes.

polyols

The stick compositions according to the invention also contain at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, water solubility is understood to mean a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ^° C., that is to say that amounts of at least 5 g of the polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups or of the polyethylene glycol with 3 - 20 ethylene oxide units in 95 g of water at 20 ⁰ C are soluble.

Surprisingly, it was found that the polyols mentioned decisively influence the structure of the entire composition of the stick. Stick compositions which did not contain the polyol component e) showed poor abrasion and application when painted on the skin and were generally unsuitable in consistency. On the skin, a crumbly, unattractive residue formed, equivalent to high product losses during application.

These components are preferably selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2. Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1, 2 Octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are also suitable according to the invention. Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2 -Methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2 Hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octane diol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units in total amounts of 3 to 25% by weight. -%, preferably 8 - 18 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 - 15 wt .-%, most preferably 9, 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 or 17 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

water

The proportion of water in the composition of the invention is 6 to 75 wt .-%, preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, particularly preferably 20 to 50 wt .-%, most preferably 25 to 45 wt .-%, each based on the Overall composition, but also water contents of 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 wt .-% very much could be.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that a) the at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ C, which is not the components b) or c) attributable, is selected hardened from i) castor oil, ii) cetearyl or C ₂₀ - ₄₀ -alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or behenic acid and mixtures of i), ii) and iii), b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7 within an oil -in-water emulsifier mixture with an average HLB value in the range of 10 - 19 are selected from mixtures of 15 - 40 ethylene oxide units comparable etherten C ₁₄ - C ₂ o-alcohols, in particular Myristeth-20, 30-Myristeth , Ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-30, and c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and smaller / equal to 7.0, with water alone or Wa In the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, it is possible to form liquid-crystalline structures, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, selected from the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids with 12 30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, in particular pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof, and d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions which contains no perfume component and no ethereal oil, the (mean) solubility parameter of the Total of the oils contained d) in the presence of linear saturated fatty alcohols having at least 8 carbon atoms by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or a maximum of +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ and in the presence of water-in-oil emulsifiers other than linear saturated fatty alcohols having at least 8 carbon atoms, in the absence of linear saturated fatty alcohols containing at least 8 carbon atoms, by a maximum of -0.4 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or maximum + 0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ differs from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers c), selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -do-alkanols, especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2 ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that a) the at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ which is not the components b) or c) attributable to C, is selected from i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl or C ₂₀ - ₄₀ alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or behenic acid and mixtures of i), ii) and iii), b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7 within one Oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures having an average HLB value in the range from 10 to 19 are selected from mixtures of C _M - C ₂ o-alcohols which have been etherified with 15 to 40 ethylene oxide units, in particular myristeth-20, myristeth- 30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-30, c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier with an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0, the with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier can form liquid-crystalline structures, as consistency and / or water binder, is selected from the mono and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, in particular pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof, and d) the at least one oil which is liquid under normal conditions, which is not a fragrance component and does not represent an essential oil, the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained being not more than - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil I emulsifiers differs, is selected from the dicarboxylic esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl p-racemate, dioctyl malate, Dioctylmaleate, dicaprylylmaleate, diisooctylsuccinate, di-2-ethylhexylsuccinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) -succinate, e) the at least one water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1, 2- Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, f) 25 to 35 wt .-% water, based on the total composition, g) the at least one polymeric organic Hydrogel-forming substance is selected from kappa-carrageenan, pectin and starch, h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition, i) the at least one cosmetic or derm Atological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active ingredients.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that a) the at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ which is not the components b) or c) attributable to C, is selected from i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl or C ₂₀ - ₄₀ -Alkylstearaten, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or behenic acid, b) the non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture with an average HLB value in the range of 10 - 19 are selected from mixtures of 15 - 40 ethylene oxide units comparable etherten C ₁₄ - C ₂₀ alcohols, in particular Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth 20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth-30, c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0, with water alone or with water in Presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier can form liquid-crystalline structures, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, selected from mixtures of ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate, and d) the at least one under normal conditions liquid oil, which is not a fragrance component and no essential oil, wherein the (middle) Solubility parameter of the total of the oils contained by a maximum of - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or a maximum of + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / which differs in water-in-oil emulsifiers, is selected from diisopropyl adipate and di-n-butyl adipate, e) the at least one water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, f) from 25 to 35% by weight of water, based on the total composition, are contained; at least one polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance is selected from kappa-carrageenan, pectin and starch, h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total Stick composition is, i) the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active ingredients.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that a) the at least one wax component with a melting point of> 50 ⁰ which is not the components b) or c) attributable to C, is selected from mixtures of i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl or C ₂₀ - ₄₀ -Alkylstearaten, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or behenic acid, b) the non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value of more than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture with a average HLB value in the range of 10 - 19 are selected from mixtures of 15 - 40 ethylene oxide units comparable etherten C ₁₄ - C ₂ o-alcohols, in particular Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20 , Steareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier with an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0 ode with water alone r can form liquid-crystalline structures with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, selected from mixtures of pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate and pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions, the no fragrance component and no essential Oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum of - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or at most + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / of the water-in-oil emulsifiers, is selected from diisopropyl adipate and di-n-butyl adipate, e) the at least one water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ - C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 Hydroxyl groups are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, f) 25 to 35 wt .-% water, based on the total composition, are included, g) the at least one polymer organic hydrogel-forming substance is selected from kappa carrageenan, pectin and starch, h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants having an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition, i) the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active ingredients.

The stick compositions of the invention preferably further contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, soothing, epithelizing, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulation enhancing, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin lightening, sebum-regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or lustering agents, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances.

Particularly preferred is the cosmetic active ingredient selected from antiperspirant active ingredients. The pen application is typical (in addition to the lipsticks) especially for the area of antiperspirants. From the outer water phase of the pins, there is a very rapid release of the (water-soluble) antiperspirant active, which is very important for product performance.

Antiperspirant components

Preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any desired mixtures of these salts.

A solubility of at least 5 wt .-% at 20 ⁰ C is understood according to the invention, solubility in water, that is, amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active ingredient in 95 g of water are soluble at 20 ⁰ C.

Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ ^Cl. 1-6 H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ ^Cl. 2-3 H ₂ O. ] _n , which may be in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form, and aluminum chlorohydrate having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl ₂ ^■ 1-6 H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ CI ₂ ^■ 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be in unactivated or activated (depolymerized) form.

The preparation of preferred antiperspirant agents is disclosed, for example, in US 3887692, US 3904741, US 4359456, GB 2048229 and GB 1347950.

Also preferred are aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum or aluminum zirconium glycol complexes, e.g. As aluminum or aluminum zirconium propylene glycol complexes, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-PG or aluminum sesquichlorohydrex-PEG, aluminum-PG-dichlorohydrex or aluminum-PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, furthermore selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octahlorohydrate, the aluminum Zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ ^.12H ₂ O, alum), aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride Complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorhydroallall antoinate, sodium aluminum chlorohydroxylactate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, zirconyl oxyhalides, in particular zirconyl oxychlorides, zirconyl hydroxy halides, in particular zirconyl chlorohydrate (zirconium chlorohydrate).

Antiperspirant active ingredients which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from what are known as "activated" aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts, which are also referred to as "enhanced activity" as antiperspirant active ingredients. Such agents are known in the art and are also commercially available. Their preparation is disclosed, for example, in GB 2048229, US 4775528 and US 6010688. Activated aluminum and aluminum-zirconium salts are typically produced by heat-treating a relatively dilute solution of the salt (e.g., about 10% by weight of salt) to increase its HPLC peak 4-to-peak 3 area ratio. The activated salt can then be spray dried to a powder.

Activated aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts typically have an HPLC peak 4 to peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, more preferably at least 0.9, with at least 70% of the aluminum attributable to these peaks , Activated aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts do not necessarily have to be used as a spray-dried powder. Antiperspirant active agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are aqueous solutions or solubilisates of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, for example according to US 6010688, which is preferred by the addition of an effective amount of a polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups Propylene glycol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, are stabilized against the loss of activation against the rapid degradation of the HPLC Peak 4: Peak 3 area ratio of the salt. For example, preferred are compositions containing by weight (USP): 18-45% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt, 20-70% by weight of water, and 5-60% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, particularly preferably propylene glycol and pentaerythritol.

Also particularly preferred are complexes of activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salts with a polyhydric alcohol containing 20-50% by weight, more preferably 20-42% by weight, activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt, and 16 wt .-% molecularly bound water, the remainder to 100 wt .-% is at least one polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Propylene glycol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol are preferred such alcohols. Such complexes preferred according to the invention of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt with a polyhydric alcohol are, for example, As disclosed in US 5643558 and US 6245325.

Further preferred antiperspirant active substances are basic calcium aluminum salts, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 2,571,030. These salts are prepared by reacting calcium carbonate with aluminum chlorhydroxide or aluminum chloride and aluminum powder or by adding calcium chloride dihydrate to aluminum chlorhydroxide. Other preferred antiperspirant actives are aluminum-zirconium complexes as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 4,017,599, which are buffered with salts of amino acids, in particular with alkali metal and alkaline earth glycinates.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salts, such as disclosed in US 6,245,325 or US 6042816, containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 1-85% by weight % Water, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in an amount to provide an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) to (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2: 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10, as well as a water soluble calcium salt in an amount to provide a Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1-1: 28 and preferably 1: 2-1: 25.

Particularly preferred solid activated antiperspirant salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight. %, preferably 4-13% by weight molecularly bound water (water of hydration), furthermore sufficient water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, is and so much amino acid that the amino acid to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10, is.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight. %, preferably 4-13% by weight molecularly bound water (water of hydration), furthermore so much water-soluble calcium salt that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio 1: 1-1: 28, preferably to 1: 2 - 1: 25, and is so much glycine, that the glycine to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10 ,.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight. %, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, furthermore sufficient water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much hydroxyalkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10, is.

Preferred aqueous liquid compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816, contain from 18 to 45% by weight (USP), preferably from 20 to 42% by weight (USP) antiperspirant salt and from about 20% to about 80% and preferably about 25 % to about 75% water together with the aforementioned amount of calcium salt and amino acid or hydroxy acid. Water-soluble calcium salts preferred for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from calcium chloride, calcium bromide, calcium nitrate, calcium citrate, calcium formate, calcium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium ascorbate, calcium lactate, calcium glycinate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof. Preferred amino acids for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from glycine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, valine, cysteine, serine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the I-form and the dl-form; Glycine is particularly preferred.

Preferred hydroxyalkanoic acids for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salts as disclosed, for example, in US 6902723, containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 1-85% by weight. Water, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in an amount to provide an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) to (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2: 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10 and a water-soluble strontium salt in such amount as to provide a Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1 - 1:28, and preferably 1: 2 - 1:25.

Particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4 - 13 wt .-% molecularly bound water, further enough so much water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (AI + Zr) weight ratio 1: 1 - 1: 28, preferably 1: 2 - 1: 25, and so much amino acid the amino acid to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10, is. Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight. of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further so much water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (AI + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1 : 28, preferably 1: 2 - 1: 25, and so much glycine that the glycine to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10, is. Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723, contain 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4 to 13% by weight of molecularly bound water, furthermore sufficient water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1 to 1:28, preferably 1: 2 to 1:25, and as much hydroxyl-containing alkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid to (Al + Zr) - weight ratio 2: 1 - 1: 20, preferably 1: 1 - 1: 10, is.

Preferred aqueous liquid compositions, for example according to US 6902723, contain 18-45% by weight (USP), preferably 20-42% by weight (USP) of antiperspirant salt and 20-80% by weight, preferably 25-75% by weight. -% water, as well as the aforementioned amount of strontium salt and amino acid or hydroxy acid.

Further preferred activated aluminum salts are those of the general formula Al ₂ (OH) ₆ . _a Xa, wherein X is Cl, Br, I or NO ₃ and "a" is a value of 0.3 to 5, preferably from 0.8 to 2.5 and particularly preferably 1 to 2, so that the molar ratio of Al X is 0.9: 1 to 2.1: 1, as disclosed, for example, in US 6074632. These salts generally associate some hydration water, typically 1 to 6 moles of water per mole of salt. Particularly preferred is aluminum chlorohydrate (ie, X is Cl in the aforementioned formula) and especially 5/6 basic aluminum chlorohydrate wherein "a" is 1 such that the molar ratio of aluminum to chlorine is 1.9: 1 to 2.1: 1 ,

Preferred activated aluminum-zirconium salts are those which are mixtures or complexes of the aluminum salts described above with zirconium salts of the formula ZrO (OH) ₂ _ _pb _b represent Y, wherein Y is Cl, Br, I, NO ₃ or SO _4, b is a rational number from 0.8 to 2 and p is the valence of Y, as disclosed, for example, in US 6074632. The zirconium salts also typically associate some hydration water associatively, typically 1 to 7 moles of water per mole of salt. Preferably, the zirconium salt is zirconyl hydroxychloride having the formula ZrO (OH) ₂ _-b Cl _b , wherein b is a rational number of from 0.8 to 2, preferably from 1.0 to 1.9. Preferred aluminum-zirconium salts have an Al: Zr molar ratio of 2 to 10 and a metal: (X + Y) ratio of 0.73 to 2.1, preferably 0.9 to 1.5. A particularly preferred salt is aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate (ie, X and Y are Cl) which has an Al: Zr ratio of 2 to 10 and a molar metal: Cl ratio of 0.9 to 2.1. The term aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate includes the tri-, tetra-, penta- and octachlorohydrate forms.

Zirconium salts preferred according to the invention have the general formula ZrO (OH) ₂ - _a Cl _a ^.x H ₂ O where a = 1.5- 1.87; x = 1-7, where a and x are rational numbers. These zirconium salts are disclosed, for example, in the Belgian specification BE 825146. Other preferred antiperspirant actives are disclosed in US 6663854 and US 20040009133.

The antiperspirant active ingredients can be present in both dissolved and solubilized as well as in undissolved, suspended form.

If the antiperspirant active ingredients are suspended in a water-immiscible carrier, it is preferred for reasons of product stability that the active ingredient particles have an average particle size of 0.1-200 μm, preferably 1-50 μm, particularly preferably 3-20 μm and extraordinarily preferably 5 - 10 microns have.

Preferred aluminum salts and aluminum zirconium salts have a molar metal-to-chloride ratio of 0.9-1.3, preferably 0.9-1.1, more preferably 0.9-1.0. Preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates generally have the empirical formula with n = 2.0-10.0, preferably 3.0-8.10, m = 0.77-1.1 (corresponding to a molar metal (Al + Zr) to chloride ratio of 1.3 - 0.9), preferably m = 0.91 - 1, 11 (corresponding to M: CI = 1, 1 - 0.9), and particularly preferably m = 1, 00 - 1, 11 (corresponding to M: CI = 1 , 0 - 0.9), furthermore very preferably m = 1, 02 - 1, 11 (corresponding to M: CI = 0.98 - 0.9) and very preferably m = 1, 04 - 1, 11 (corresponding to M: CI = 0.96-0.9).

In general, some of the water of hydration is associatively bound to these salts, typically 1-6 moles of water per mole of salt, corresponding to 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of water of hydration.

Usually, the preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates are associated with an amino acid to prevent polymerization of the zirconium species during manufacture. Preferred stabilizing amino acids are selected from glycine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, cysteine, valine, serine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the I-form and the dl-form; Glycine is particularly preferred. The amino acid is contained in the salt in an amount of 1 to 3 moles, preferably 1 to 3 to 1.8 moles, per mole of zirconium.

Preferred antiperspirant salts are aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrate (Al: Zr = 2-6, M: CI = 0.9-1.3), in particular salts with a molar metal-to-chloride ratio of 0.9-1.1, preferably 0.9 - 1, 0.

Also preferred according to the invention are aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine salts which are stabilized with betaine ((CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CC ¹ Cr). Particularly preferred corresponding compounds have a total molar (betaine + glycine) / Zr ratio of (0.1-3.0): 1, preferably (0.7-1.5): 1, and a betaine molar ratio Glycine of at least 0.001: 1 on. Corresponding compounds are disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 7,105,691.

In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the particularly effective antiperspirant salt comprises a so-called "activated" salt, in particular one with a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, in particular with a peak 5 surface of at least 33%, particularly preferred at least 45%, based on the total area under the Peaks 2-5, measured by HPLC of a 10% by weight aqueous solution of the drug under conditions in which the aluminum species are resolved into at least 4 consecutive peaks (designated peaks 2-5). Preferred aluminum zirconium salts having a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content (also referred to as "E ⁵ AZCH") are disclosed, for example, in US 6436381 and US 6649152.

Furthermore, those activated "E ⁵ AZCH" salts whose HPLC peak has a 4-to-peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, particularly preferably at least 0.9, are preferred.

Further particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are those aluminum zirconium salts having a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, which are additionally stabilized with a water-soluble strontium salt and / or with a water-soluble calcium salt. Corresponding salts are disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 6,923,952.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are selected from astringent titanium salts such as disclosed in GB 2299506A.

The antiperspirant active substances can be used as (aqueous) solutions or as glycolic solubilisates.

Particularly preferred sticks according to the invention, in particular deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is present in an amount of 3 to 27% by weight, preferably 5 to 22% by weight and in particular 10 to 20% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the water-free active substance (USP) in the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition contains a adstringie- rendes aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine from Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron ^® L from Clariant, as Chlorhydrol ^® as well as in activated form as Reach ^® 501 is sold by Reheis. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered, which is likewise particularly preferred. Also particularly preferred are activated aluminum chlorohydrates which are available under the names ^Reach® 101 and ^Reach® 103 from Reheis. The use of aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® or as a powder Rezal 36 GP in the trade, may be particularly preferred in the present invention.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the stick compositions of the invention may contain both at least one deodorant and at least one antiperspirant active.

Likewise particularly preferred is the cosmetic active ingredient selected from deodorant active ingredients. Deodorant actives

Deodorant active ingredients which are preferred according to the invention are odor absorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, germ-inhibiting agents, prebiotic active components and also enzyme inhibitors or, particularly preferred, combinations of said active substances. Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention. The silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention include, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, INt, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum. Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-7% by weight and most preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition. According to the invention, germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial active ingredients are understood as meaning those active substances which reduce the number of skin germs participating in the formation of the odor or inhibit their growth. These organisms include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci.

Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, Cetylpyridinium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ - C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic esters of mono-, di- and triglycerin (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).

Further preferred deodorant active substances are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs that lead to a include healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active ingredients, which are disclosed in the published patent applications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 01 1 968 as prebiotically effective, also included; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

Further preferred deodorant active substances are selected from the germ-inhibiting perfume oils, in particular from heliotropin, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol (3-phenoxypropan-2-ol), anisalcohol, 2-methyl-5-phenyl-pentan-1-ol, 1, 1-Dimethyl-3-phenyl-propan-1-ol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethane-1-ol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 4-phenylbutan-1-ol, 5-phenylpentan-1-ol, 2 Benzylheptan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3-phenylpropane-1 -ol, 2-ethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (2'-chlorophenyl) - 2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (4'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3 - (2'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (4'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dimethylphenyl) -2-ethyl-propane-1 -ol, 2-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dimethoxyphenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-allyl-3-phenylpropane 1-ol and 2-n-pentyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, as well as Mischu Of these, with mixtures of phenoxyethanol and 2-benzylheptan-1-ol and mixtures of phenoxyethanol, 2-benzylheptan-1-ol and heliotropin are particularly preferred. The enzyme inhibitors include substances which inhibit the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxigenase, e.g. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.

Preferred sticks according to the invention, in particular deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient is selected from aryl sulfatase inhibitors, β-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxigenase inhibitors. inhibitors, α-Monoalkylglycerinethern with a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ - C ₂₂ - alkyl radical, especially α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, phenoxyethanol, germ-inhibiting active perfume oils, Deosafe perfume oils, prebiotically active components,

Trialkylcitric acid esters, in particular triethyl citrate, active ingredients which reduce or inhibit the growth of the number of skin germs from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulphonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogen compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine gluconate and Benzalkoniumhalogeniden, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate, lantibiotics, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Further preferred pins according to the invention, in particular deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient is present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-7% by weight, especially preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight and most preferably 0.4 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8 and 0.9% by weight , based on the total weight of the active substance in the total composition.

Likewise particularly preferred is the cosmetic active ingredient selected from active substances which regulate hair growth, in particular slow down or inhibit hair growth. Such active ingredients are particularly preferably used in antiperspirants and deodorants to obtain the result of the shaving of the armpit hair longer. Preferred substances which slow down or inhibit hair growth are, in particular, selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of Salix alba, as described, for example and preferably in US Pat Raw material Pilinhib ^® Veg LS 9109 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques is included with the INCI declaration "Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic acid" Furthermore, combinations of active substances from extracts of Epilobium angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulata, as described for example and preferably in the raw materials ARP 100 by Greentech SA / Rahn with the INCI declaration "Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifol Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract "and ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract) Furthermore, active ingredient combinations of xylitol and extracts of Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit, Carica Papaya (papaya) and olive leaves, as for example and preferably in the raw material Xyleine from Impag / Seporga with the INCI declaration "Xylitol and Citrus Medica Limonum ( Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract "also contain active ingredient combinations from Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya and Thuya Occidentalis, as for example and preferred in the raw material Plantapharm complex AH from Plantapharm with the INCI declaration "Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Cari ca Papaya, Thuya Occidentalis ", as well as extracts of Larrea divaricata, as for example and preferably in the raw material Capislow of Sederma, which contains lecithin vesicles with a hydroglycolic extract of Larrea divaricata included.

Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from substances which inhibit protein tyrosine kinase, in particular lavendustine A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidene-malononitrile, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenemalononitrile, α-Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4 -dihydroxy) thiocinnamide, 2-amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1, 1, 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl) -1 , 1, 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alpha-indol-5-yl) -1, 1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 4-hydroxy 3-methoxy-5-

(benzothiazolylthiomethyl) benzylidenecyanoacetamide, 4-amino-N- (2,5-dihydroxybenzyl) methyl benzoate, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, 4- (3-chloroanilino) -6,7-dimethoxy quinazoline, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-benzylcinnamide, (-) - RN- (α-methylbenzyl) -3,4-dihydroxybenzylidenecyanoacetamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (3-phenylpropyl) -cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-phenylcinnamide, α-cyano - (+) - (S) -N- (alpha-phenethyl) - (3,4-dihydro cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (phenylbutyl) cinnamide, herbimycin A, thiazolidinedione, phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids, 2,2'-dithiobis (1H-indole-3)

Alkanoic acids), sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrene, methyl caffeate, HNMPA (AM) ₃ (hydroxy-2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonic acid fr / s-acetoxymethyl ester) and N-acetyl-Asp-Tyr- (2-malonyl) -val-Pro-Met-LeU- NH ₂ .

Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from the substances disclosed in WO 2006/130330 A2, namely agonists of the farnesoid X receptor, preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6-alpha -Ethylchenodeoxycholic acid, further from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2, 6,10-dodecatriene 1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesoate, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, ethyl farnesoate, further from 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid methyl ester (juvenile hormone IM), 7-methyl-9 - (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid ethyl ester, 3-alpha, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6 alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, N- (2,2,2-trifluoroethyl) -N- [4- [2,2,2 trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1- (trifluoromethyl) -ethyl] -phenyl] -benzenesulfonanilide, S-.beta.-.beta.-chloro-.pbd.-dichloro-phenyl) -SO-methyl-ethyl-isoxazolyl-methoxy] - phenylethenyl] benzoic acid, [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bis-bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester and [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl-4 hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester.

Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one hair growth inhibiting substance in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.001-2 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt.%, And most preferably 0, 1 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the active substance of the hair growth inhibiting active substance (s) and the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Likewise particularly preferred is the cosmetic active ingredient selected from anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and / or skin-calming agents. Some of the Substances mentioned below can not only act against skin aging, but also have a skin-calming, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic or moisturizing effect, for example.

The cosmetic anti-aging active ingredient is particularly preferably selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, moisturizing active ingredients, Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H and the esters and / or salts of the aforementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, ß-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and Flavonoid-rich plants extra kts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, purine and purine derivatives, in particular the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, Theobromine and aminophylline, aporphine alkaloids, ectoine, inorganic and or ganic UV filter substances, self-tanning agents, skin-lightening agents, skin-soothing agents, sebum-regulating agents, hyperemic agents, antimicrobial agents, prebiotic agents and coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigments.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxycarboxylic acid. xylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, Sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ -acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the abovementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ -acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group can also be esterified at this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues is, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, the z. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys into thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thereby release active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta. His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, suitable for the substitution of Gly are AIa, Leu and N. The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is G ly-His-Arg (INCI name: Tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. B. by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. B. ATPeptides, available via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which may substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne).

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids which can replace Arg include a side chain having a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides which contain at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, eg. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ne). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg GIn, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Name Matrixyl is available from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, more preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, the Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg melanostatine-DM from Vin cience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, z. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine homophenylalanine trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins having more than 30 amino acid units. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates, are particularly preferred average molecular weight in the range of 1200 to 1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400 to 1700 daltons, z. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600 - 1000 daltons, preferably 800 daltons, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica, with coconut fatty acids, N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolysates in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred soy protein hydrolyzate according to the invention is an N-acylated and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate with coconut fatty acids in the form of the potassium salt, which is available from Sinerga under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya. Further preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular Wollkeratinhydroly- sate. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction having an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Also preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolyzates, in particular those which are obtainable under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen. Conchiolin is a complex protein produced from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular pearl shells and various types of snails, and forms the very stable shell of these molluscs by incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals.

Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® ^® or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of the under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available Products Listed: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiIk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids contained in the stick compositions according to the invention are selected from DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the dehV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^' -3 ^' ) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ™, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome ™ from AGI Dermatics, USA, available.

According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ™ or Ultrasomes ™ in total amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1, 0 - 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total inventive pin included.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001. 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 - 1 - 2 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the entire pen composition according to the invention, included.

In another preferred embodiment, the stick compositions of the invention contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide. According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine-5 'triphosphate). An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt.%, And particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the stick compositions according to the invention contain at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds used in accordance with the present invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^" according to ILJPAC Rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) are not included among the betaine compounds used in the invention, nor are other zwitterionic compounds. in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge are formally O, S, B or C, but which do not comply with ILJPAC Rule C-816.1 Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^" ), each with Me = methyl and X = CC single bond (in the case of the betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - ( in the case of carnitine). According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-% , in each case based on the entire stick composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the stick compositions according to the invention contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E and H and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that it contains at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.05-0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

- Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^{^'-amino-2'} -methyl-5 ^'-pyrimidi- nyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.

- Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) - benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.

- Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.

- Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.

(VIT-I)

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical represent. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), A-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The invention extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a Hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 is} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cf] -imidazole-4-valeric acid. Inventions According to particularly preferred compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

- Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate. Folate is the generic term for all acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a pteridine ring linked to 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

- Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1, 2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ , B ₁₃ and their esters and / or salts and pantolactone.

Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the stick compositions according to the invention comprise at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erytharic acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, glucone acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extra kt. The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanans, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin ( 3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxy-ethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside )), Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5, 7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D Galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin. It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple kernel extra kt, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one polyphenol or one polyphenol-rich plant extract. According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, as well as phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexa-hydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the tannins resulting from self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another special the preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Char donnay L, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay T rob, available from Croda. According to the invention, the polyphenols are preferred in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and very preferably 0.01 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the commercial product, of at least one polyphenol contains, used in the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

(UBI-I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme

Q10.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of

0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1

Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance selected from purine and purine derivatives. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-cf] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred compositions according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, a total amount of 0.001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.01-1% by weight, more preferably 0.1-0.8 Wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Particularly preferred purine derivatives are selected from compounds of the general structure (PUR-I),

(PUR-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ^ AIkOXy- (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkyl, a C ₁ - to C ₄ aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkylamino group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a C ₁ - to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl (Ci-to C ₄ ) -Amininoalkylrest or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -A ^ yIaIrHnO) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C rC ₆ alkyl group. Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH , -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , wherein the following compounds are extremely preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

Compounds of general formula (polyurethane I) in which R ¹ and / or R ² correspond to a OH-group exist in tautomeric compounds, in particular those of the general formula (PU-II), starting from (PU-I) with R ¹ = R ² = OH:

(PUR-I

in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ mono- hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkoxy (C- | - C ₄₎ - alkyl, a C ₁ - to C ₄ aminoalkyl radical, a Hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di- C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C- | - to C ₄₎ alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, especially a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an arylC-rC ₆ alkyl group, wherein caffeine (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ), theobromine (R ⁶ = H, R ⁷ R ⁸ = CH ₃ ) and theophylline (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH ₃ , R ⁸ = H) are extremely preferred.

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic composition may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. According to the invention, the purine derivatives are preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 1, 5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition , contain. In crayons according to the invention for anticellulite treatment of the skin, in particular caffeine has proven itself, which is preferred for example in anticellulite agents in quantities of 0.01-2% by weight, more preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight and especially preferably 0.2 to 0.8 wt .-%, in each case based on the agent is included.

Particularly preferred purine derivatives are selected from the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives, especially selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline.

Aporphin alkaloids preferred according to the invention are selected from compounds of the general structure (APO-ALK-I),

(APO-ALK-I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a Hydroxy (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di- C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group, an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, an acyl group, a sulfonyl group or a sugar, and the cosmetically acceptable salts of (APO-ALK-I) with an acid, in the form of all optical isomers, in isomerically pure form or as a mixture of optical isomers. Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds combined according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radicals which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1, 2-dihydroxyethyl group. Examples of halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.

Any mono- or oligo-, in particular disaccharides, can be used as the sugar radical. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred aporphine alkaloids are selected from compounds of the general structure structure ((AAPPOO-AALLKK-II)) in that RR ¹¹ == RR ²² == RR ^{; 3} = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = CH ₃ . This compound is also referred to as 1, 2,9,10-tetramethoxyaporphin.

Preferred compositions of the invention comprise at least one aporphine alkaloid in narrower ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they - based on their weight - a total amount of 0.0001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.002 - 0.1 wt. % and in particular 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-% of at least one aporphine alkaloid.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for Λ / methyl guanidinoacetic acid or Λ / amininosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1% by weight and more preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one active substance which is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. According to the invention, polyhydroxystilbenes are understood to mean stilbenes which are substituted by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxyl groups on the two phenyl radicals, it being possible for these to be esterified. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters according to the invention are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. An inventively particularly preferred Resveratrolphosphorsäureester is trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, z. Available from Ajinomoto.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active agent selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001 - 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt%, and most preferably 0.005 - 0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from: sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol) methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C®, exsymol) methylsilanol mannuronate nylon 12 (Algisium C powder®, exsymol) ascorbylmethylsilanol (ascorbosilane concentrate C®, exsymol) ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C®, exsymol) dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC®, exsymol) dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane nylon 12 (DSBC powder®, exsymol) sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH®, exsymol) dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC®, exsymol) methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol®, Exsymol) methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane®, exsymol) methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C®, exsymol) sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium®, exsymol) lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C®, exsymol) dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol® C, exsymol) methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilanes ®, exsymol) acetylmethionylmethylsifano l elastinates (Methiosilane C®, Exsymol) methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol®, Exsymol) methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C®, Exsymol) methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C®, Exsymol) pyrrolidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate®, Exsymol) pyrrolidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C®, exsymol) methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane®, exsymol) methylsilanecarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (theophyllisilane C® exsymol) methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane®, exsymol) copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C®, exsymol).

Particularly preferred are sodium hyaluronates dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol hyaluronates, methylsilanol mannuronates, methylsilanol hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.005-1 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt based on the active substance in the entire composition according to the invention. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1% by weight, preferably 0.01-0.5% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1% by weight. -%, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of maize kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract). An extract of corn kernels which is particularly preferred according to the invention is obtainable under the trade name Deliner from Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1 - 3 wt .-%, more preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Com) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0 , 0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 - 0.05% by weight, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract). A particularly preferred extract of oat grains according to the invention is available under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1 - 3 wt .-%, more preferably 1 - 2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt. %, preferably 0.0001 to 0.1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.05 wt.%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one product which is obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum, designated KOmbucha and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Further particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 2 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from products obtained by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment carry, in a total amount of 0.00001 - 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 - 0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 - 0.05 wt .-% contained, each based on the content of Active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred apple seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Ederline from Seporga. The product Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol , Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the raw material Ederline in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extra apple kernel in amounts of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1 Wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2%. 3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of lotus seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of red wine. Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of red wine in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in that it contains at least one extract of red wine in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, in each case based on the content of active substance throughout the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred are the grapes kern extra kte from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are available under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

According to the invention stick compositions are characterized in that they at least one extract of grape seeds in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0, 05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of black elder flowers (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is available under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Stick compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and more preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, included. Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and more preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active ingredient which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes. Particularly preferred according to the invention stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from mixtures of at least one extract of the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract from cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures, which are available under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred stimulator of the beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, the z. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf OiI and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel OiI and Cupressus Sempervirens OiI and Lavandula Hybrida OiI and Cistus Ladaniferus OiI, z. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefosse), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 and any mixtures of these agents.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight and more preferably 1 - 3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. heat, again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines , monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonsäureestern and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotri- cyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3- dione, 3- (4 ^{methylbenzylidene)} -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, A- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 Amyl (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl hexyl ester, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy -4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzalmalonate 2-ethylhexyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (octyl Triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS No. 207574-74-1 , Parsol ^® SLX), Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2- ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^®) and any desired mixtures of the stated components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B - Make filters. The compositions according to the invention therefore contain in another preferred embodiment 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3 dion in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethyl- cyclohexyl. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0. 15 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 3.0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0%. 5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine derivatives, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and erythrulose.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight. and most preferably 2.0 - 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. According to the invention preferred skin lightening agents are selected from ascorbic acid, thereof the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂ o-carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract, and licorice extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particular preference is given to sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one skin lightening agent in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2 wt%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one active substance which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leucotriene synthesis.

Preferred active compounds which inhibit prostaglandin synthesis are selected from active substances which inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase and active substances which inhibit the secretion of interleukins, in particular of interleukin-1-alpha. For the purposes of the present invention, the inhibition of cyclooxygenase can be understood as meaning both a reduction in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction in its activity, as well as both.

Preferred drugs that inhibit leukotriene synthesis are selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase. For the purposes of the present invention, the inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase can be understood as meaning both a reduction in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction in its activity and both.

Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin secretion, are selected from silymarin, which is particularly preferably used in liposome-encapsulated form (obtainable, for example, under the trade name silymarin phytosome (INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract and phospholipids) from the company Indena SpA. Silymarin represents an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was formerly regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of the silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, Other inhibitors of prostagladin synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin, belong to the group of flavanolignans. Distribution, are selected from extracts of Centella asiatica, for example, available under the name Madecassicoside of DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania spinosa kernel OiI", as described, for example, in US Pat B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of vanilla Tahitensis, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia, extracts of olive leaves (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), as are in particular available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience, furthermore algin hydrolyzates, as available, for example, under the trade name Phycosaccharide, in particular Phycosaccharide AI, from Codif are extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as obtained, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine from the company Sederma Lich, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as z. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from the company Cosmetochem, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for. B. under the trade name Phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, and any mixtures of these agents.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of prostaglandin synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001-2.0% by weight, more preferably 0.05 - 1, 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 - 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of 5-lipoxygenase, are selected from algin hydrolyzates, aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-alkylated C _Σ- Cn amino acids with dC _ΣΣ alkyl as well as physiologically acceptable salts, N-acylated C ₁ -C ₂ -i-amino acids with C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, yeast extracts, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, allantoin, and any mixtures of these substances ,

In a preferred embodiment, the algin hydrolyzates according to the invention are selected from the products which, for. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides AI, are available from Codif.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms are selected from amino malonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to aspartic acid and its physiologically tolerated salts, in particular potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate. According to the invention, preference is given to the aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and salts thereof in quantities of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 2 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁ -i-amino acids having a C-τC ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from alanine, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine , Proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically tolerated salts, which on the nitrogen atom of the amino group are a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from a group consisting of methyl, ethyl, Propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (palmityl, cetyl), heptadecyl, octadecyl (stearyl), nonadecyl, eicosanyl ( Arachidyl) and behenyl. Particularly preferred is N-methylglycine (= sarcosine).

According to the invention, the N-alkylated C _Σ- Cn-amino acids are preferred with a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-acylated C ₂ -C -i -amino-acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical are selected from glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine , Proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts. The amino acids can be used individually or in a mixture. Particularly suitable according to the invention are amino acid mixtures which have been obtained from plants, in particular cereal plants. The C ₂ -C ₂₂ -acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl- , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. Particularly preferred are sodium cocoyl amino acids, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the lauroyl derivatives of amino acids derived from cereal plants. The cereal plants from which the amino acids suitable according to the invention are obtained are subject to no restriction. Suitable are, for example, oats, wheat, barley and rye; oat is particularly suitable.

A particularly preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor is the Seppicalm commercial product from Seppic Company with the INCI name "Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartates, Magnesium Aspartates".

Preference according to the invention is given to the N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁ -i-amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ -acyl radical and the physiologically tolerable salts thereof in quantities of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1- 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the yeast extracts preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are in amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.01-2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1-1% by weight, in each case based on the extract tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention used. A particularly preferred commercial product is Drieline (INCI name "Sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor α-bisabolol in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt. -%, in each case based on the entire pen composition according to the invention used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor according to the invention is α-lipoic acid in amounts of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-2 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-1 wt.%. , in each case based on the entire pen composition according to the invention, used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor allantoin according to the invention is used in amounts of 0.001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-2 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1-1 wt.%. , in each case based on the entire pen composition according to the invention, used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the physiologically tolerated salts of the sterol sulfates which are preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate, ergosterol sulfate, stigmasterol sulfate, cholesterol sulfate and lanostearol sulfate. Particularly preferred are the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate. The sterol sulphate salts are used in amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.01-2% by weight and more preferably 0.1-1 % By weight, based in each case on the entire stick composition according to the invention. The Sterolsulfatsalze can be used both individually and in any mixtures. A particularly preferred commercial product is phytocohesins (INCI name "Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate"), available from Vincience.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the abovementioned 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one inhibitor of leukotriene synthesis in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 0 , 05 - 1, 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Preferred blends are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1, 10-decanediol) from Vincience. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts of 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1 -2 Wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

Further inventively particularly preferred Stifzusammensetzungen are characterized in that they contain at least one hyperemic agent. Hyperemic active agents preferred according to the invention are selected from

Nicotinic acid esters, in particular nicotinic acid benzyl ester (benzyl nicotinate), nicotinic acid butoxyethyl ester (nicoboxil), nicotinic acid methyl ester, nicotinic acid ethyl ester, nicotinic acid hexyl ester, isopropyl nicotinate and nicotinic acid myristyl ester, pyridine-3-carbaldehyde (β-pyridine carbaldehyde, nicotinaldehyde), salicylic acid esters, in particular phenyl salicylate, vanillyl ethers, in particular vanillyl butyl ether, Carboxylic acid vanillylamides, in particular nonivamide,

In particular capsaicin, cantharidin, piperine, gingerol, zingerone, myristiccine, safrol, allicin, sedamin, sacculatal, chalciporone, isochalciporone, velleral, vellerol, and isothiocyanates (mustard oils), in particular benzyl mustard, but also allyl mustard (allyl isothiocyanate) , 3-Methylthiopropylsenföl, Butylsenföl, 3-Butenylsenföl, Erucin, Erysolin,

Hirsutin, Isopropyl Mustard, β-Phenylethylsenföl, Sulforaphane and Sulforaphene (Raphanin),

Extracts from Scharfstoff plants, in particular from Capsicum, in particular from

Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens, but also from Capsicum chinense,

Capsicum baccatum and Capsicum pubescens, further from stonecrop and from the

bryony,

Turpentine oil, and mixtures thereof.

Hyperemic active substances which are preferred according to the invention are commercially available in a form prepared for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Extremely preferred active ingredients according to the invention are ethyl nicotinate, vanillyl butyl ether, e.g. the raw material Hotact VBE from Takasago, Capsaicin, available e.g. As raw material Herbasol Extract Capsicum (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Sorbitol) and N-Vanylylnonamid (Pseudocapsaicin).

Preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hyperemicating active ingredient in a total amount of active substance of 0.005-3.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-1.0, more preferably 0.05-0.5% by weight. % and most preferably 0.1 to 0.35% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the stick composition according to the invention.

Further inventively particularly preferred Stifzusammensetzungen are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient which is selected from deoxysugars, more preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, particularly preferably a deoxysugar-containing polysaccharide with the INCI Biosaccharides Gum-1, for example, contained in the commercial product Fucogel ^® Solabia, containing a deoxy sugar building blocks polysaccharide with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, for example, in the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® of Solabia, containing a deoxy sugar building blocks containing polysaccharide the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-3, for example, in the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia, a polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar building blocks with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-4, for example in the commercial product Eq ycofilm ^® from Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the abovementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, obtainable as Commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, furthermore urea, furthermore alkyl- or hydroxy-alkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (UREA),

(UREA)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or Ci-C ₄ -Hydroxyalkyl groups are, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R ₁ - R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C 1 -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea , Betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ), chitosans, glycosaminoglycans, particularly preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulphate and chondroitin 6-sulphate, as well as any desired mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and urea and mixtures of N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, urea and lactates, in particular ammonium lactate.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the at least one (aforementioned) moisturizing active ingredient selected in a total amount of 0.001-10% by weight, more preferably 0.01-5% by weight and most preferably 0, 1 - 1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. The compounds listed as compulsory component e) are explicitly excluded from these quantities.

Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigment. Preferred pigments of this type may be inorganic or organic. Further preferred pigments have an average particle diameter of 0.1-200 μm, preferably 0.5-100 μm, more preferably 1-50 μm and most preferably 2-30 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are selected from the oxides of silicon, titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, magnesium, cerium and bismuth, bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, mica, fluorspar and water-insoluble pearlescent pigments which may be coated with at least one inorganic and / or organic compound. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Particularly preferred color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Particularly preferred dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971.

It may also be preferred according to the invention to choose as the dye one or more substances from the following group: 2,4-Dihydroxyazobenzol, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) - 2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceresrot , 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo 4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) - 2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6, 8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and Zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salts lz, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide. Further inventively preferred dye pigments are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. As paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Pearlescent pigments which are preferred according to the invention are selected from natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example, pearlescent pigments. B. "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells), monocrystalline pearlescent pigments, such as. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), and layered substrate pigments, e.g. Mica / metal oxide. The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismutoxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and also bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particular preference is z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment. Also preferred according to the invention are the following pearlescent pigment types based on metal oxide-coated mica:

Particularly preferred according to the invention are e.g. the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, in addition to mica, other substrates can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronasphere"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles. Moreover, it may be preferred according to the invention to dispense entirely with a substrate such as mica. Particularly preferred are pearlescent pigments prepared using SiO ₂ . Such pigments, which may also have additional goniochromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF. Also preferred are pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, which are coated with titanium dioxide. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 μm, they have a glittering effect in addition to the color.

Also particularly advantageous are also effect pigments, which are available under the trade name Metasome Standard / Glitter in various colors (yellow, red, green, blue) from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are in this case in mixtures with various auxiliary and Dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491) before.

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated with one another, wherein different coating thicknesses generally cause different color effects.

Further preferred pigments are selected from colored and colorless pigments. Some of the pigments mentioned below also serve as UV absorbers. Particularly preferred colored pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the Color Index numbers Cl 77491 (iron oxide red), Cl 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and Cl 77499 (iron oxide black), from Cl 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black.

Particularly preferred pigments are the commercial products SUNPMMA-S and SUNSIL Tin 30 from Sunjin Chemicals Co. having an average particle diameter of 5 to 10 μm and 2 to 7 μm, respectively.

Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are coated. The coating can be carried out with the aid of inorganic and / or organic compounds. Particularly preferred according to the invention are inorganic pigments which have an inorganic coating. Exceptionally preferred pigments of this type are selected from silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides. A particularly preferred pigment of this type is the commercial product Ronasphere ^® LDP Merck KGaA. This product is a spherical silica particle coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide. Ronasphere LDP ^® has an average particle diameter of 4 - 7 microns. Furthermore, preference is given to inorganic-coated mica pigments which have no pearlescence.

Further preferred inorganic coated inorganic pigments are mica pigments coated with titanium dioxide in different layer thicknesses, for example, the products of the Timiron ^® series from Rona / Merck KGaA, in particular pigments of the product lines Timiron ^® MP, Timiron ^® Super, Timiron ^® Starlight and Timiron ^® Siik. The products mentioned have average particle diameters of 5 to 60 μm or 10 to 60 μm or 10 to 125 μm or 5 to 25 μm. Also preferred are mica particles having a coating of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, e.g. , The commercial products Timiron ^® MP-20, MP-24, MP-25, MP-28, MP-29, MP-60 and MP-65th Also preferred according to the invention are mica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or red and / or black iron oxide, eg. For example, the products of the Colorona ^® series. Further preferred pigments are silica gel-coated mica pigments, e.g. As the commercial product Micronasphere ^® M. Further inventively preferred pigments are inorganic coated inorganic pigments whose coating has a content of 0.1 to 1 wt .-% tin oxide.

Also preferred according to the invention are inorganic pigments which are coated with organic substances. Preferred examples of this are aluminum stearate coated titanium. dioxide pigments (eg., the commercial product MT 100 T from the company Tayca), dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) coated zinc oxide, boron nitride coated with Dimethicone (Tres BN ^® 1106 UHP from Carborundum), with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel (SIME- thicone) and hydrated aluminum oxide (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex ^® T 2000 by Merck), with octylsilanol coated titanium dioxide particles or spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan-(Aerosil ^® R972 from Degussa).

Another particularly preferred pigment is the commercial product SB-705 from Miyoshi Kasei, a spherical silica gel with the INCI name Silica, which has a mean particle diameter of 5 - 6 microns and a surface area of about 600 nfVg. Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigment in a total amount of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably 2 - 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Further inventively preferred stick compositions are characterized in that (in addition to the at least one cosmetic active ingredient) a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 4 wt .-%, more preferably at most 3 wt .-%, most preferably at most 2 wt .-% and furthermore very preferably at most 1% by weight and furthermore very preferably at most 0.5% by weight of at least one aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salt. Such low concentrations of a salt used in itself as antiperspirant active ingredient in the O / W emulsion base according to the invention have too low an antiperspirant effect, so that they are not suitable for a commercially effective and successful antiperspirant product. However, it has surprisingly been found by those skilled in the art that the presence of an aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salt in amounts of not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably not more than 4% by weight, particularly preferably not more than 3 wt. %, even more preferably not more than 2% by weight and still more preferably not more than 1% by weight and still more preferably not more than 0.5% by weight further optimize the stability and / or the strength and / or the abrasion properties of the stick compositions according to the invention can. Particularly preferred stabilizing and / or strengthening aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salts are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl ^■ 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form, also aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG - dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, further selected from the

Aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachloro aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ ^.12H ₂ O, alum), aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, Aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate allantoinate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate.

Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 4 wt .-%, more preferably at most 3 wt .-%, most preferably at most 2 wt .-% and still more preferably at most 1 wt. At least one aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salt and, as further component, at least one organic polymeric hydrogel former are present.

Further inventively particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that no deodorant active ingredient selected from arylsulfatase inhibitors, ß-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxygenase inhibitors, α-monoalkyl glycerol ethers with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical, in particular α- (2-ethylhexyl) -glycerol ether, phenoxyethanol, germ-inhibiting perfume oils, Deosafe perfume oils, prepubically active components, trialkyl citric acid esters, in particular triethyl citrate , Agents that reduce the number of dermal germs from the group of staphylococci, Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci or inhibit their growth, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulfonate and Zinkricinoleat, Organohalogenverbindungen, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, Chlorhexidingluconat and benzoyl ammonium halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate and lantibiotics.

Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for improving the appearance of the skin, wherein a stick composition according to any one of claims 1 - 4 and 6 - 28 is applied to the skin, in particular to the facial skin.

Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for reducing transpiration, characterized in that a stick composition according to any one of claims 1 - 28 on the skin, in particular on the underarm skin, is applied. Low melting wax component

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that at least one wax component with a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ⁰ C, selected from Kokosfettsäureglycerinmono- mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures of these substances. These lower melting wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin. Particularly preferred are commercial products with the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably a mixture of Ci ₂ -Ci ₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides, which melts in the range of 30 - 32 ° C. as it is marketed, eg under the trade name Novata ^® AB from Cognis, and the products of Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, especially Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Other preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate (e.g., Crodamol ^® CSS.), cetyl palmitate (for example Cutina ^® CP.) and myristyl myristate (eg. . Cetiol ^® MM).

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one wax component with a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ⁰ C in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 3 - 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 18 wt .-% and most preferably 6 to 15 wt .-%, further preferably 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is included.

fillers

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler for improving the stick consistency and the sensory properties. In an exceptionally preferred embodiment, this filler is selected from optionally modified starches (eg, from corn, rice, potatoes) and starch derivatives which are, if desired, pregelatinized, silica, silicic acids, e.g. As Aerosil ^® types, spherical polyalkyl sesquisiloxane particles (especially Aerosil ^® R972 and Aerosil ^® 200V from Degussa), silica gels, talc, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, lactoglobulin derivatives, eg. B. sodium C ₈ . ₁₆ -lsoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE, glass powders, polymer powders, in particular of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, z. As nylon, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, or silicones, and mixtures of these substances. Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Poychap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. B. polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder (ACCUREL ^® EP 400 from AKZO), or silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler in a total amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 3 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 15% by weight. , most preferably 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

fragrances

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that furthermore at least one perfume component is contained.

As perfume component perfumes, perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients can be used. Perfume oils or fragrances can according to the invention individual fragrance compounds, eg. As the synthetic products of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate and jasmecyclate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals of 8 - 18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the ionones, alpha-lsomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes such as limonene and pinene. Preferably, however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance.

Such perfume oils may also contain natural fragrance mixtures as are available from vegetable sources, eg pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muskateller sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil. In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile In the composition of perfumes, for example, volatile fragrances can be bound to certain fixatives, which prevents them from evaporating too quickly the odor impression and on whether the corresponding end fragrance is perceived as the head or middle note, nothing said.

Adhesive-resistant fragrances which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine oil, copaϊva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja Oil, Thyme oil, Ver oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, lemon oil, lemon oil and cypress oil. But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol , Bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron Isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, Coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muscone, beta-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester,

Salicylic acid cyclohexyl esters, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymes, thymol, γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cimat alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

The more volatile fragrances include in particular the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that at least one perfume component in a total amount of 0.00001 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt. %, most preferably 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 3 and 1, 4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

Penetration force values

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the stick compositions of the invention are characterized by a penetration force value in the range of 150-800 grams force (g-force), preferably 200-750 grams force (g-force), more preferably 350-600 grams force (g-force), with a penetration depth of 5,000 mm. The penetration force value is a measure of the hardness of a pencil (or even of a solid cream composition) and indicates with which maximum force a defined measuring probe, here a 45 ° stainless steel cone (model TA 15), up to a penetration depth suitable for the measurement , here up to a penetration depth of 5,000 mm (five point zero zero zero mm), with a feed rate of 2 mm / second vertically (axially) is moved into the pin mass to be measured. The determination of the penetration force value is carried out with the TA-XT2i Texture Analyzer from Stable Micro Systems (Vienna Court, Lammas Road, Godalming, Surrey GU7 1YL, England). The maximum force is given in grams force (g-force). Lower values mean a softer composition, harder compositions have a higher penetration force value. Creamy compositions are often measured at a penetration depth of 10,000 mm (ten point zero zero zero mm) to obtain more accurate values. This penetration depth can usually not be measured with harder pencil masses, as this often already begins to break the pencil mass. A doubling of the penetration depth Approximately a tripling to four times the measured value of the maximum force. The measurements are carried out at ambient conditions of 30 ⁰ C and 50% relative humidity, the sample temperature is 23 ° C. The measurements are preferably carried out 3 days and / or 4 weeks after production of the stick composition according to the invention.

The antiperspirant creams disclosed in DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 have penetrating force values of 9-15 gram force (g-force) under the measuring conditions mentioned here.

Electrical resistance

The water-containing sticks disclosed in the prior art are present almost exclusively in the form of water-in-oil emulsions or emulsions with the aqueous phase as the dispersed phase. In order clearly and unambiguously to distinguish the pins according to the invention from the prior art, the measurement of the electrical resistance serves as a test which can be carried out quickly and reliably, as is customary in the study of emulsions. An oil-in-water system has higher electrical conductivity due to the continuous water phase and consequently lower electrical resistance than a water-in-oil system. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the stick compositions according to the invention are characterized by an electrical resistance of at most 300 kΩ. Preference is given to an electrical resistance of not more than 100 kΩ, particularly preferably not more than 80 kΩ. The resistance is measured with a Voltcraft model VC820 multimeter with automatic range switching (0-400 Ω / 40MΩ (± 1% + 2dgt)) and two stainless steel microtip probes 1, 0 mm. The electrode distance is fixed with a millimeter gauge. The measurement is carried out at room temperature (22 ° C). To do this, the microtip electrodes are fixed parallel to the millimeter gauge at a distance of 27.0 mm and connected to the ohmmeter. The measurement of the electrical resistance takes place directly on the water-containing pins. For this purpose, the usually curved surface of the pins is removed with a knife so far that results in a flat cut surface. Immediately thereafter, the measuring electrodes are inserted approximately 5 mm vertically into the pin mass. The measured value of the electrical resistance is read off after 30 seconds. The cleaning of the measuring electrodes takes place with an alcohol-soaked cellulose cloth. Under the measuring conditions mentioned tap water has an electrical resistance of 250 kΩ, a 20 wt .-% aqueous aluminum chlorohydrate solution 3 kΩ and demineralized water 1, 7 MΩ.

product stabilization

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one free-radical scavenger substance for product stabilization, more preferably a substance with the INCI name tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, which, for. B. under the trade name Tinogard Q available from Ciba. Tris (tetramethyl-hydroxypiperidinol) citrate is preferably present in amounts of 0.01-0.1, more preferably 0.025. 0.05 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one UV filter. The UV filters are preferably selected from benzotriazole derivatives, in particular 2- (5-chloro-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -6- (1, 1-dimethylethyl) -4-methyl-phenol (INCI name: Bumetrizole, available, for example, under the trade name Tinogard AS from Ciba), 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl ) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical) , 2- (2'-Hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- Methyl 6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name drometrizole trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine ( INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Me thoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso Triazine also available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2 -methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6 [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1) methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2, 4-bis - {[4-

(1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3 , 5-triazine and mixtures of the above components. Furthermore, the addition of water-soluble UV filters is preferred. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium , Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- and Glucammoniumsalze, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro at Symrise is available, and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no. : 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts and sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as z. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid. Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the radical scavenger tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate and the UV filter bumetrizole for product stabilization. Bumetrizole is preferably present in amounts of 0.01-0.1, particularly preferably 0.025-0.05,% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one complex-forming substance for product stabilization. Particularly preferred as a complex-forming substance is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium salts, such as those available under the trade name Trilon B from BASF, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Further extraordinarily preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one free-radical scavenger substance and at least one substance selected from UV filters and complex-forming substances.

Further extraordinarily preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one free-radical scavenger substance, at least one UV filter and at least one complex-forming substance.

Further exceptionally preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, bumetrizole and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, the latter optionally as the sodium salt.

preservatives

The usual preservatives may also be added to the compositions of the invention to prevent spoilage of the product by microbial growth. Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, so some substances belong to both groups. Benzoic acid and its derivatives (for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), propionic acid and derivatives thereof (for example ammonium, sodium and potassium) are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics. , Potassium and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and its derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl). , Butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and potassiumparaben, sodium and potassium methylparaben, potassiumbutylparaben, sodium and Potassium propylparaben), alcohols and their salts (eg ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenol, potassium phenolate, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (eg chlorhexidine diacetate, -digluconate, and dihydrochloride), hydantoin and its derivatives (eg, DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives (eg, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and their derivatives (e.g. B. ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and its derivatives (eg, isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (eg, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary Ammonium compounds (e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15), carbamates (e.g., iodopropynyl butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydrocetsa acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropyl-cresol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile, polyaminopropyl-biguanide, sodium hydroxymethyl-glycinate, sodium phenolsulfonate, triclocarban, triclosan, zinc pyrithione and various peptide antibiotics (e.g. Nisin).

Preservatives preferred according to the invention are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben and also iodopropynyl butylcarbamate.

The amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions according to the invention is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5% by weight and especially 0.1-3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Another object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cosmetic stick according to any one of claims 1-31, wherein the wax and oil components together with the oil-in-water and the water-in-oil emulsifier / are heated to 90 - 95 ° C and melted, then the likewise heated to 90 - 95 ° C water with the active ingredients and ingredients is added with vigorous stirring, optionally further ingredients are mixed, the mixture to a suitable filling temperature cooled, filled into suitable dispenser forms and solidified by static cooling (without further stirring) to room temperature.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto.

TABLE 2 Inventive stick compositions (all amounts in% by weight)

Table 2 (continued): stick compositions according to the invention (all amounts in% by weight)

Examples 1 and 2 are examples of inventively preferred pen bases for the treatment and care of the skin.

Example 3 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick according to the invention for the treatment of pimples, acne and blackheads.

Example 4 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick according to the invention for the treatment of cellulite and skin tightening.

Example 5 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick according to the invention for the treatment of wrinkles, wrinkles and fine lines.

Example 6 is an example of a preferred skin-tanning cosmetic stick according to the invention (self-tanning stick).

Example 7 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick according to the invention with UV protection and skin-matting action.

Example 8 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick having a moisturizing effect according to the invention.

Example 9 is an example of a skin-soothing deodorant stick preferred according to the invention, especially for the skin after shaving, and a hair growth-inhibiting active ingredient.

Example 10 is an example of a preferred cosmetic stick according to the invention for the lightening treatment of the skin.

Application of the pins according to the invention

On skin with signs of acne, pimples and / or blackheads, the pen from Example 3 was applied in the morning and evening after cleansing (face and / or décolleté and / or back). Depending on requirements, the affected areas of the skin were brushed once or several times with the pen according to the invention. After 7 days, there was a marked improvement in the appearance of the skin, with acne and pimples occurring only to a lesser or lesser extent.

On skin with signs of cellulite every 2 days, the pencil from Example 4 was applied (thighs, buttocks). For this purpose, the affected areas of skin were repeatedly brushed with the pen according to the invention in circular, massaging movements. After 28 days, there was a marked improvement in the appearance of the skin and the treated skin was firmer than before treatment.

On skin with wrinkles and fine lines, the pen from Example 5 was applied in the morning and evening after cleansing (face and / or neck). Depending on requirements, the affected areas of the skin were once or even repeatedly coated with the pen according to the invention, particularly preferably in circular, massaging movements. After 7 days, there was a clear Improvement of the appearance of the skin, wrinkles and fine lines were only visible to a lesser or lesser extent.

Example pens 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 were similarly used.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic stick composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion, which is not a microemulsion containing a) at least one wax component having a melting point> 50 ⁰ C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), b) at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 11-17, c) at least one nonionic water-in-water emulsifier Oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, d) at least one under normal conditions liquid oil, which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum of - 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ and a maximum of + 1, 0 (cal / c m ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ deviates from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / of the water-in-oil emulsifiers, e) at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having from 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, f) from 6 to 75% by weight of water, based on the total composition, g) at least one polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance, mixtures of guar gum (guar gum), Locust bean gum (locust bean gum) and pectin are excluded, h) a total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants having an HLB value above 8 of at most 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition, i) at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient selected from antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, soothing, epit helical, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulation-promoting, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin-whitening, sebum-regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or lustering active substances, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances.

A stick composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance is selected from non-ionic and anionic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

3. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one nonionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance in a total amount of 0.08 - 0.7 wt .-%, preferably 0.11 - 0.5 wt. %, more preferably 0.19 to 0.4 wt .-% and most preferably 0.25 to 0.3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition of the invention is included.

4. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one anionic polymeric organic hydrogel-forming substance in a total amount of 0.25 - 1, 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 - 1, 2 wt. %, more preferably 0.52-1.1% by weight and most preferably 0.6-1.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition according to the invention.

5. stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient i) is selected from antiperspirant active ingredients.

6. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₆ -C ₆ o-alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C _2O -C ₄₀ -AI kylstea rat, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₂ - C ₃₀ - carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C _M - C ₃₆ carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

7. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component / na) in total amounts of 2.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 6.5 to 14 wt .-%, most preferably 9 - 13 wt. %, based on the total composition.

8. stick composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the ester (s) of a saturated, monohydric C ₆ -C ₆ o-alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, the / the wax component / na) represents / in amounts of 1, 5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 2.5 to 6 wt .-%, most preferably 3 - 5.5 wt .-%, based on the Wherein also values between 3.5 and 5.5% by weight, in particular 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5, 2 and 5.4 wt .-%, may be particularly preferred.

9. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier b) having an HLB value of more than 7 is selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10 - 100 mol Ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acids with an average of 10 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per

Moles, containing on average 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated,

Silicone copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide

Units,

Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols,

Partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty acid residues esterified, if they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures the aforementioned substances.

10. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsifier b) in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 4 wt .-%, based on the total composition , is included.

11. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier c) is selected from linear, saturated C ₁₂ - C ₃₀ alkanols,

Ethylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -

C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated,

Glycerol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ - C ₃₀ -

Carboxylic acids that can be hydroxylated

Propylene Glycol Mono- and Diesters of Linear, Saturated and Unsaturated C ₁₂ -

C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated,

Sorbitan mono-, di- and triesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -

C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, Pentaerythrityl mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated,

Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, sterols,

Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in the alkyl group and 1 to 4 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1, 0 and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit,

Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms,

Partial esters of polyglycerols having n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and Mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

12. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsifier c) in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 8 wt .-%, and especially preferably 1 - 4 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition, is included.

13. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid under normal conditions d) is selected from

- benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _{_8-22} alkanols,

branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

- triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ - ₃ o-fatty acids,

Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols,

Esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated,

- Addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C ₈ . ₂₂ - alkanols,

- Addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to monovalent or polyvalent C ₃ . ₂₂ alkanols,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids,

symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols,

- And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

14. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid under normal conditions d) in a total amount of 3 - 20 wt .-%, preferably 5 - 14 wt .-%, particularly preferably 6 - 12 wt .-% , in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

15. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oils d) which are liquid under normal conditions contain a maximum of 20% by weight of oil / s, based on the total weight of oils which are liquid under normal conditions, whose solubility parameter is more than 0.4 or -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ or more than +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / Water-in-oil emulsifiers c) deviates.

A stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that no oils which are liquid under normal conditions are present, whose solubility parameter is more than + 1, 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ⁰ ' ⁵ from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil - Emulsifier / the water-in-oil emulsifiers c) deviates.

17. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ - C ₉ alkanol e) with 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1, 2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, glycerol , Butylene glycols such as 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1, 2-pentanediol and 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1, 2-hexanediol and 1, 6-hexanediol , Hexane triols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylenglycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

18. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ - C ₉ alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or the water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-25 wt. %, preferably 8-18% by weight, more preferably 10-15% by weight, most preferably 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 or 17% by weight, based in each case on Total composition is included.

19. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that further comprises at least one wax component having a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ⁰ C, selected from Kokosfettsäureglycerinmono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated and mixtures of these substances.

20. stick composition according to claim 19, characterized in that the wax component having a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ⁰ C in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 3 - 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 - 18 wt .-% and most preferably 6 - 15 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is included.

A stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler.

A stick composition according to claim 21, characterized in that the solid, water-insoluble particulate filler is selected from optionally modified starches and starch derivatives which are optionally pregelatinised, silica, silicic acids, spherical polyalkylsesquisiloxane particles, silica gels, talc, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, Lactoglobulin derivatives, glass powder, polymer powders and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

23. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid, water-insoluble, particulate filler in a total amount of total amount of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 3 - 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5-15 Wt .-%, most preferably 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, is included.

24. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that 10 to 60 wt .-% water, preferably 20 to 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 25 to 45 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, are included.

25. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that further at least one perfume component is contained.

A stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims characterized by a penetration force value in the range of 150-800 grams force (g-force), 200-750 grams force (g-force), more preferably 350-600 grams force (g -force) at a penetration depth of 5,000 mm.

27. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized by an electrical resistance of at most 300 kΩ, preferably at most 100 kΩ and particularly preferably at most 80 kΩ.

28. stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one radical scavenger substance and / or at least one complex-forming substance, optionally in combination with at least one UV filter substance, is included.

29. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for improving the appearance of the skin, characterized in that a stick composition according to any one of claims 1 - 4 and 6 - 28 applied to the skin, in particular on the facial skin.

30. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for reducing transpiration, characterized in that a stick composition according to any one of claims 1 - 28 on the skin, in particular on the underarm skin, is applied.

31. A method for producing a cosmetic stick according to any one of claims 1 - 28, wherein the wax and oil components together with the / in the oil-in-water and / or the water-in-oil emulsifier (s) to 90-95 ° C are heated and melted, then the also heated to 90 - 95 ° C water with the active ingredients and ingredients is added with vigorous stirring, optionally further ingredients are added, the mixture cooled to a suitable filling temperature, filled into suitable dispensing forms and solidified to room temperature by static cooling (without further stirring).