DE102019207781A1 - Cosmetic O / W emulsion with scleroglucan and hydrophilic UV filter substances - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) containing, in addition to a water phase, one or more oil phases dispersed therein and a) scleroglucan and b) one or more hydrophilic UV filter substances.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing scleroglucan and hydrophilic UV filter substances.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has changed over time, striving for a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people. The condition and appearance of the skin play a key role in a beautiful and attractive appearance.

In order for the skin to be able to fully fulfill its biological functions, it needs regular cleaning and care. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products are mostly used to moisturize and re-oil the skin. Often, active ingredients are added to them that regenerate the skin and, for example, are intended to prevent and reduce its premature aging (e.g. the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

Skin care products are usually made up of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only partially miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets. Externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and if oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water. In the case of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter), the principle is reversed, with the basic character being determined by the oil.

In order to keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and to prevent the phases from separating, so-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions. Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element. At the end of the 1940s a system was developed to make the selection of emulsifiers easier. A so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20) is assigned to each emulsifier, which indicates whether the water or oil solubility is preferred. Numbers under 8 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers over 8 indicate water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers.

In the production of an emulsion, the water phase is combined with the lipid phase (oil phase) with stirring, whereby the droplets of the inner phase of the emulsion have to be reduced to a size of less than 10 µm so that the emulsion becomes stable.

The trend away from elegant paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years. In order to achieve this, people expose their skin to solar radiation, as this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin. However, the ultraviolet radiation of sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs with excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and leads to premature skin aging.

To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have therefore been developed which can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

1. a) Skleroglucan und
2. b) eine oder mehrere hydrophile UV-Filtersubstanzen.

The use of hydrophilic UV filters in emulsions often leads to a destabilization of these systems and a resulting separation of the phases. Long-term stabilization of O / W emulsions with UV filters, even at elevated temperatures, is therefore desirable.
The object is surprisingly achieved by cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) containing, in addition to a water phase, one or more oil phases dispersed therein as well

1. a) Scleroglucan and
2. b) one or more hydrophilic UV filter substances.

Scleroglucan is released into the surrounding medium as a microbial exopolysaccharide by fungal species of the genus Sclerotium (Basidiomycota, Agariomycetes). Sclerotium delphinii, for example, is a major pest of plants. Scleroglucan is also known as Sclerotium Gum (INCI: Sclerotium Gum).

Scleroglucan is a (1 → 3; 1 → 6) -β-D-glucan. Its mean molar mass is about 5.7 * 10 ⁶ g / mol, its average degree of polymerization about 35,000.

The chemical structure of scleroglucan is illustrated as follows:

Scleroglucan consists of a linear (1 → 3) -β-D-glucan chain (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ C6H10O5) _n , on which statistically every third glucose unit with a single (1 → 6) -β-D- Glcp residue is branched.

Scleroglucan is readily soluble in water and can be used as a thickener. The use of scleroglucan in cosmetic emulsions is known per se to the person skilled in the art, but the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

For example, the DE 10 2014 015 554 the use of scleroglucan in cosmetic preparations containing UV filters for reducing the contamination and / or discoloration of textiles caused by the UV filters in the preparation.

The EP 1 132 076 describes thickened hair compositions containing scleroglucan.

According to the invention it is advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of scleroglucan in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.01 and 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably between 0 , 1 and 1.0% by weight, each based on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention it is advantageous if the emulsion contains one or more oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) in a total concentration of 0.05 to 5.0% by weight and preferably in a total concentration of 2.0 to 4.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more hydrophilic UV filter substances in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight , particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bisnatriumsalz

mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.Advantageous hydrophilic UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are, for. B. the salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself; also phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3 '-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name Bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) are also advantageous. , which is also known as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

According to the invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that hydrophilic emulsifiers with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8 are used as O / W emulsifiers. The HLB value of emulsifiers can be found in the usual standard works (e.g. Fiedler, Lexicon of Auxiliaries for Pharmacy, Cosmetics and Adjacent Areas, Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf).

According to the invention, it is preferred if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that glyceryl stearate citrate (CAS 39175-72-9, INCI Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, e.g. Imwitor 370 from Hüls), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate ( INCI Polyglyceryl Methyl Glucose Distearate, e.g. Tego Care 450 from Evonik) and / or polyethylene glycol (2000) monostearate (INCI; PEG-40 stearate) can be used.

In an embodiment preferred according to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention contains potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearyl glutamate, alkali salts of saturated fatty acids of chain length C14-C22, in particular sodium stearate, as an anionic emulsifier.

In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention contains one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters as nonionic emulsifiers. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester particularly preferred according to the invention is polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate).

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, particularly preferred between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the emulsion according to the invention is characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers, in particular one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, especially polyglyceryl stearate in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion.

The emulsion according to the invention can have the consistency of an ointment, cream or low-viscosity lotion or represent an ointment, cream or low-viscosity lotion.

It is preferred according to the invention if the process according to the invention is carried out in the form of the hot-hot process. In this process, a hot oil and water phase are combined with one another.

According to the invention, it is particularly preferred if the process is carried out at a temperature not above 85.degree.

According to the invention, the emulsion can advantageously be in the form of an ointment, cream or lotion (optionally sprayable).

According to the invention, the emulsion can advantageously also be used as a spray or as a soaking medium for a plaster or cloth. Therefore, plasters and tissues soaked with the emulsion according to the invention are also according to the invention.

The water phase of the emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as alcohols, in particular those with a low carbon number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low carbon number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, hexanediol, octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, ethylhexylglycerol, methyl propanediol, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether, and analogous products, also polymers, phenoxyethanol, benzene chlorinated alcohols, self-electrolytes, benzyl alcohols, benzene alcohols, benzene chloride, self-propylene Repellants and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group of polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg Xanthan gum, carrageenan, gellan gum, starches and celluloses, hyaluronic acid.

The oil phase according to the invention can contain all conventional constituents of oil, fat and wax components used in cosmetics.

According to the invention, the emulsion according to the invention can advantageously contain cosmetic active and care substances, for example the UV light protection filters approved according to the Cosmetics Ordinance. According to the invention, such active ingredients can advantageously be present in concentrations of 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

As further care substances, niacinamide, panthenol, aloe vera, vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A derivatives, retinyl palmitate, vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, urea, taurine, folic acid, amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, Alanine, arginine), dipeptides (e.g. carnosine), unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, especially di- and triglycerides (e.g. γ-linoleic acid, linoleic acid, Oleic acid), mannose, magnolia bark extract, magnolol, honokiol, glycyrrhetinic acid can be used in concentrations of 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the preparation according to the invention particularly preferably contains alpha-hydroxy acids and / or their salts as further constituents. According to the invention, lactic acid / lactates or citric acid / citrates are preferably used in a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention can contain perfumes in any desired composition and amount.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The data always relate to% by weight, unless otherwise stated. phase ingredients Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Phase a Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phase B Sclerotium gum - 0.3 - - Xanthan gum - - 0.3 - Carrageenan - - - 0.3 Phase C. Cetearyl alcohol 2 2 2 2 Hydrogenated cocoglycerides 2 2 2 2 Dicaprylyl ether 8th 8th 8th 8th Phase D. Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Aqua 6th 6th 6th 6th Sodium hydroxide 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phase E. Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Methyl parabens 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 storage At room temperature day 1 stable stable stable stable Day 7 stable stable stable stable at 40 ° C day 1 stable stable stable stable Day 7 Phase separation after 2 days stable stable Phase separation at 50 ° C day 1 Phase separation stable stable Phase separation Day 7 - stable Phase separation - 12 h cycle from -10 ° C to 40 ° C Day 6 Phase separation stable stable Phase separation

Recipe examples

Example A Wt% O / W day cream Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate 2.5 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Macadamia oil 0.2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M) 1 Octocrylene 2 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3 Octyl salicylate 1 Terephthalidicamphor sulfonic acid, sodium salt 0.5 Niacinamide 0.1 Panthenol 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 Hexanediol 1 EDTA 0.2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 1 Sclerotium gum 0.1 Glycerin 7th Additives (xanthan gum, neutralizing agents, TiO ₂ ) 0.9 Perfume q.s. water ad 100 pH 7.0 Example B. Wt% O / W day cream Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate 0.2 Sorbitan monostearate 2 Cetearyl alcohol 1 C _12-15 alkyl benzoate 3 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Jojoba oil 0.5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3 Octyl salicylate 2 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (e.g. Parsol® 1789) 2 Folic acid 0.05 Glycyrrhetinic acid 0.05 Benzyl alcohol 0.2 Octanediol 0.3 EDTA 0.2 Sclerotium gum 0.3 Glycerin 7th Additives (BHT, neutralizing agents, TiO ₂ ) 0.2 Perfume q.s. water ad 100 pH 7.0 Example C Wt% O / W day cream Glyceryl stearate citrate 2 Glyceryl stearate 2 Cetostearyl alcohol 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4th Dicaprylyl ether 4th Ethylhexyl salicylate 3 Octyl methoxycinnamate 3 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (e.g. Parsol® 1789) 2 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 0.5 Distarch phosphate 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Glyceryl caprylate 0.3 4-hydroxyacetophenone 0.3 Sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.2 Sclerotium gum 0.4 Glycerin 5 EDTA 0.2 Perfume 0.2 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH _aq ) (adjusted to pH 7) q.s. water ad 100 Example D Wt% O / W day cream Polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate 3 Glyceryl stearate 2 Cetyl alcohol 1 Isopropyl palmitate 2 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 Caprylic acid / capric acid triglycerides 2 Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane (e.g. Parsol® 1789) 1 Octocrylene 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 4th Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 1 Glyceryl caprylate 0.3 Carrageenan 0.1 Sclerotium gum 0.3 Ascorbyl glucoside 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 Glycerin 6th EDTA 0.2 Decanediol 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Benzethonium chloride 0.05 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH _aq ) (adjusted to pH 7) q.s. water ad 100 Example E Wt% O / W day cream Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.3 Glyceryl stearate 2 Cetostearyl alcohol 1 Isopropyl palmitate 2 Ethyl hexyl stearate 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb® S) 2 Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate 0.5 Ethylhexyl Triazone (UVINUL® T 150) 0.5 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 Sclerotium gum 0.3 Aloe Vera extract 0.3 Magnolia bark extract (Magnolol) 0.1 Glycerin 7th Retinyl palmitate 0.1 Panthenol 0.5 EDTA 0.2 Ethanol 3 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.5 Benzyl alcohol 0.2 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH _aq ) (adjusted to pH 7) q.s. water ad 100 Example F Wt% O / W day cream Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 1 Glyceryl stearate 2 Cetostearyl alcohol 1 Isopropyl palmitate 2 Ethyl hexyl stearate 2 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2 Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone (UVASORB HEB) 1 Sodium phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate 1 Octocrylene 2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 4th Carnosine 0.2 Glycerin 7th EDTA 0.2 Sclerotium gum 0.4 Ethylhexyl glycerine 0.5 Methyl paraben 0.2 Neutralizing agent (citric acid, NaOH _aq ) (adjusted to pH 7) q.s. water ad 100

QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Patent literature cited

• DE 102014015554 [0016]
• EP 1132076 [0017]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsions (O / W emulsions) containing, in addition to a water phase, one or more oil phases dispersed therein and a) Scleroglucan and b) one or more hydrophilic UV filter substances. O / W emulsions Claim 1 , characterized in that the content of scleroglucan in the emulsion is from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more hydrophilic UV filter substances in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight , particularly preferably between 0.1 and 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic UV-A filter substance or substances is or are selected from the group of salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, such as sodium and potassium - or its triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself; also phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid-bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, or the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium - or triethanolammonium salt), which is also known as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) (INCI: Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion has one or more oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) in a total concentration of 0.05 to 5.0%, based on the Total weight of the emulsion. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more anionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of one or more nonionic emulsifiers in the emulsion is from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight and preferably between 0.05 and 3% by weight, particularly is preferably between 0.1 and 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the emulsion. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydrophilic emulsifiers with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8 are used as O / W emulsifiers. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the O / W emulsifiers are polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (e.g. Tego Care 450 from Evonik), potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, sodium stearyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, alkali salts of saturated fatty acids of chain length C14-C22, in particular sodium stearate and / or polyethylglycol esters of saturated fatty acids such as polyethylene glycol (2000) monostearate (INCI; PEG-40 stearate) and PEG-100 stearate can be used. O / W emulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are selected as O / W emulsifiers, particularly preferably polyglyceryl stearate.