EP2006422A1 - Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric - Google Patents

Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2006422A1
EP2006422A1 EP20070114713 EP07114713A EP2006422A1 EP 2006422 A1 EP2006422 A1 EP 2006422A1 EP 20070114713 EP20070114713 EP 20070114713 EP 07114713 A EP07114713 A EP 07114713A EP 2006422 A1 EP2006422 A1 EP 2006422A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
polyester filament
spandex
weft
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP20070114713
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German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Chi Ping Cheng
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Central Textiles (HK) Ltd
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Central Textiles (HK) Ltd
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Filing date
Publication date
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Publication of EP2006422A1 publication Critical patent/EP2006422A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01H—SPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H1/00—Spinning or twisting machines in which the product is wound-up continuously
    • D01H1/02—Spinning or twisting machines in which the product is wound-up continuously ring type
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29—Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913—Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2929—Bicomponent, conjugate, composite or collateral fibers or filaments [i.e., coextruded sheath-core or side-by-side type]
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3008—Woven fabric has an elastic quality

Definitions

  • This invention relates generally to core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments and an elastomeric fiber and fabrics made there from, and more particularly, the present invention relates to core spun yarns comprising poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex, or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex.
  • core spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a number of component yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at the central axis of the composite thread, while the remaining yarns act as covering yarns. Therefore, heat set is necessary to prevent retraction of the elastic fibers and the resultant compression of the fabric. Without heat setting, there will be high shrinkage and poor appearance after a finishing operation or in-house washing. However, the required heat setting process is time and cost consuming with many side affects such as affected elongation, growth and the stability of the fabric width.
  • Bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in US Patent No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in US Patent No. 5,922,433 , US Patent No. 7,143,790 , and US Patent No. 6,782,923 .
  • the disclosure of each of these patents is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • the fabrics disclosed in these patents use bare bi-component polyester and have a strong synthetic feel and appearance. This undesirable synthetic characteristic can only be overcome by dyeing the fabric in two separate dyeing steps. This is a tedious process and can reduce the elastic properties of the fabric. Also, it is limited to denim fabric.
  • a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • the core spun yarn in which the polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
  • the core spun yarn wherein the elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber.
  • the core spun yarn wherein the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric fiber is drafted from 2.5 to about 4.5 times its original length.
  • the core spun yarn wherein said polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • the polyester filament may comprise poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex or the polyester filament may comprise poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • a core spun yarn including a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • Said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
  • the yarn may comprise a sheath of at least one hard fiber having an English cotton count (Ne) from about 4 to about 60.
  • the core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber, said bi-component polyester filament being drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric fiber is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its original length.
  • the core spun yarn further including a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • the core spun yarn wherein said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
  • a woven stretch fabric comprising one of the core spun yarn as previously defined or described in the weft and/or warp.
  • the woven stretch fabric can be a plain woven, twill or satin fabric.
  • Said woven stretch fabric can also be denim and has been subjected to a one-step dyeing process of piece dyed fabric.
  • this fabric has a weft and/or warp elongation from about 10% to about 35%.
  • the woven stretch fabric is substantially free of any bi-component polyester filament grinning effect.
  • This disclosure relates to a bi-component filament core spun yarn which may comprise a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.
  • the bi-component polyester filament may comprise poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate).
  • the denier of the bi-component polyester filament should be in the range of from 20 to 150.
  • the elastomeric fiber is preferably a bare spandex from 20 to 140 denier.
  • the bi-component polyester filament and the elastomeric fiber are provided with a different draft.
  • draft is meant the reduction in the linear density of the fiber by drawing.
  • the degree of attenuation is calculated as the ratio of the surface speeds of the output and input machine components which bring out drafting.
  • the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.30 times its original length and the bare spandex is drafted from about 2.50 to about 4.50 times its original length.
  • the yarn includes a sheath which forms a composite yarn with the bi-component filaments and elastomeric yarns.
  • the sheath may be staple fibers of a hard yarn.
  • Hard yarn refers to relatively unelastic yarns such as polyester, cotton, nylon, viscose rayon, or wool.
  • the sheath may range from Ne 4 to Ne 60.
  • Ne is an indirect system of expressing the mass per unit length as one lb. per 840 yards.
  • the fibers of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, nylon, polyester and blends thereof may be used. In general, there is no particular restriction on the staple fibers that can be used provided that the benefits are not affected.
  • FIG. 1 and 2 An apparatus for making yarn is shown in Figs. 1 and 2 .
  • a tube 2 or other source of the bi-component filament 4 mounted on a pair of feed rollers 6.
  • a tube or other source 8 of elastomeric fiber 10 is mounted on a pair of feed rollers 12.
  • the bi-component polyester filament 4 and elastomeric fiber 10 (spandex) are combined and controlled by a guide roller 14 from which the combined bi-component polyester and spandex is fed to the front rollers 16.
  • a tube 18 of roving or hard fibers 20 is provided with the hard fiber being fed through a set of back rollers 22 and then to the front rollers 16.
  • the combined spandex 10 and bi-component polyester filament 4 along with the hard fiber 20 is fed from the front rollers 16 thorough a snail wire 24 into a conventional spinning device 26.
  • the spinning device 26 may include a spindle 28, a spinning ring 30 and a balloon controlled ring 32.
  • the combined bi-component polyester filament and spandex and hard fiber are core spun together in the spinning device during the spinning process, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex is covered by the hard fibers to form a component yarn.
  • Both the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are unwound in a counter-clockwise direction as shown in the figures.
  • the draft of the bi-component polyester 4 is controlled by the surface feed ratio of the feed rollers 6 and front roller 16.
  • the draft of the spandex 10 is controlled by the surface speed of its feed rollers 12 and the front roller 16.
  • the speed of the feed rollers 6 of the bi-component filament and 12 of the spandex can be adjusted separately to give the desired draft or stretch ratio.
  • the draft ratio of the bi-component polyester ranges from about 1.01 to 1.3. This ratio is designed based upon the stability of the coverage of the bare bi-component polyester and is not related to the stretchability of the woven fabric. A draft ratio of the spandex ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.5. The ratio is designed according to the stretchability requested on the resulting woven fabric.
  • the bi-component polyester and spandex are combined and controlled by the guide roller 14 properly positioned to achieve the proper coverage.
  • To achieve similar or even higher fabric stretch level as compared to previously known stretch fabrics made from core bi-component polyester spun yarn or bare bi-component polyester filament it is possible to use just 75 denier of the bi-component polyester filament and 40 denier of spandex to replace, for example, a core 150 denier of the bi-component polyester filament.
  • percent of the bi-component polyester is generally less than the prior art core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn, there is no special technique that has to be done in order to improve the coverage of the bare polyester filament.
  • a possible common yarn defect that could happen during the core yarn spinning process is for the bi-component polyester filament or the spandex to somehow break off and not be fed into the guide roller. Such defect would only be noticed upon the manual checking after the full cop or yarn breakage.
  • One way of providing a recognition of this problem at an early stage is to provide turning rollers 34 and 36 for the bi-component filament 4 and spandex fiber 10 as shown in Figs. 3 and 4 . As shown in those figures, a turning roller 34 for the bi-component filament 4 is mounted between its feed rollers 6 and the front rollers 16 and the turning roller 36 for the spandex 10 is similarly mounted between its feed rollers 12 and front roller 16.
  • a respective turning roller 34 or 36 will stop rotating providing an indication to a worker that a breakage has occurred and that the operation should be shut down until such problem is corrected.
  • the remainder of the apparatus of Figs. 3 and 4 is the same as that of Figs. 1 and 2 except that the guide 14 roller may be omitted.
  • FIG. 5 and 6 Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown in Figs. 5 and 6 .
  • the bi-component polyester filament and spandex have been combined together in a separate device and are provided for feeding into the spinning device 40 on a tube mounted on feed rollers 42.
  • the combined bi-component filament and spandex is fed over a single turning roller 44 to the front rollers 16.
  • the roving or hard fiber is fed through the back rollers 22 to the front rollers 16 at which point the two sets of fibers pass into the spinning apparatus 26.
  • the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are wound together before being put on the feed rollers, such bi-component polyester filament and spandex will have been wound together at their desirable respective draft. However, in this case, there may be a draft of from 1.0 to 1.1 controlled by the surface speed ratio of the feed roller 42 and front roller 16.
  • the core spun bi-component polyester filament and spandex yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a weft stretched, warp stretched, or bi-stretched by using the core spun yarn in a weft, warp and warp and weft directions respectively.
  • the woven stretch fabric may have a fabric weft ranging from 136 g/m 2 to 542 g/m 2 (4 oz./sq. yd. to 16 oz./sq. yd).
  • the yarn as described herein is suitable for any woven fabric with construction as a plain, Z-twill, S-twill, satin, sateen and any other common construction which is used in such items as denim, pants, and shirts.
  • the fabric construction is designed similar to previously-known stretch fabric made from core spandex yarn or bi-component polyester filament. However, there is no need to have an open construction in order to get stretchability. In the case of the denim stretch woven fabric using the yarn as described herein, the fabric does not require heat set up to maintain good dimensional stability with shrinking less than 7%, elongation not less than 20% and growth less than 4%.
  • a piece dyed stretch fabric for example, using the weft stretch, using the yarn of the present disclosure, can achieve the lower shrinkage, less than 7%, good elongation not less than 20%, and growth less than 4%, with only an acceptable number of "white spots" occurring on the fabric surface. Also, it is not necessary to use a two-step dyeing process on a woven bi-stretch fabric using the yarn of the present invention as one can achieve a comfort stretch greater than 15% of in the warp and weft direction without any problem of grinning.
  • Fabric no. 1 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester and spandex spun yarn in the weft, whereas fabric no. 2 and fabric no. 3 are previously known stretch fabrics made by using core bi-component polyester filament and a bare bi-component polyester filament respectively.
  • fabric no. 1 in accordance with the present invention, obtains a better elongation as compared to fabrics no. 2 and fabric no. 3, and has a 100% cotton feel. Without any heat set process, fabric no. 1 achieves a good dimensional stability (-6.2%), good elongation (20%) and growth (2.5%). Other characteristics are summarized in Table 1.
  • fabric no. 4 is a fabric which uses a weft yarn in accordance with the present disclosure, which is a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex.
  • Fabric no. 5 is a common stretch fabric with the weft yarn being a core bi-component polyester filament only. Both weft yarns had a cotton sheath, and were subjected to a one step dyeing process.
  • fabric no. 4 in accordance with the present disclosure, achieved weft elongation of 21.6% and had growth of 1.9% and good stability of 3.5%.
  • Fig. 7a shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5.
  • Fig. 7b shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5.
  • Fabric no. 6 uses yarns in accordance with the present disclosure and comprises a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex spun yarn both in the warp and weft direction.
  • Fabric no. 7 comprises only a core bi-component polyester filament in the warp and weft as in previously known stretch fabrics. As shown in the table, fabric no. 6, has a higher stretch power (29%) in the weft direction. Further, the concern of exposure of the bare polyester in the warp of the previously known core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is not a problem with the fabric no. 6 as the percentage of the polyester is much less.
  • This example shows the availabilitv of fabrics using yarns in accordance with the present disclosure to reach the desired stretchability by adjusting the denier of the spandex/bi-component filament and the draft (if needed).
  • the warp yarn in each of the Fabrics no. 8-11 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn at Ne7.
  • the weft yarn in each of the fabrics comprises a different denier of the filament/spandex spun yarn at Ne8. They are:
  • This example shows the use of the yarns of the present disclosure on a bi-stretch fabric undergoing a one-step dyeing process as set forth in Table 5.
  • the example demonstrates a fabric with a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex in Ne10 both in the warp and the weft. Using only a one-step dyeing process the finished fabric still has a good appearance with an acceptable grinning effect.
  • Fig. 8a shows the front face side of the fabric no. 12 of this example while Fig. 8b shows the backside view of fabric no. 12.
  • neither the front nor the back view show any significant sign or grinning. This is achieved with the elongation in the warp and weft being 15% and 16.6% respectively.
  • Other characteristics of the finished fabric are shown in Table 5.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

A core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140. The polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn. The elastomeric fiber may have higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber. The polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex. The yarn may include a sheath of at least one staple fiber. The disclosure also includes a fabric of the bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber.

Description

    TECHNICAL FIELD
  • This invention relates generally to core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments and an elastomeric fiber and fabrics made there from, and more particularly, the present invention relates to core spun yarns comprising poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (ethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex, or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and an elastomeric fiber comprising spandex.
    • BACKGROUND
  • Conventional stretch fabrics made by using core spun spandex yarn has, in general, too much stretch power. As used herein, core spun yarn refers to a yarn consisting of a number of component yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at the central axis of the composite thread, while the remaining yarns act as covering yarns. Therefore, heat set is necessary to prevent retraction of the elastic fibers and the resultant compression of the fabric. Without heat setting, there will be high shrinkage and poor appearance after a finishing operation or in-house washing. However, the required heat setting process is time and cost consuming with many side affects such as affected elongation, growth and the stability of the fabric width.
  • Bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in US Patent No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising bi-component polyester filaments are disclosed in US Patent No. 5,922,433 , US Patent No. 7,143,790 , and US Patent No. 6,782,923 . The disclosure of each of these patents is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. However, the fabrics disclosed in these patents use bare bi-component polyester and have a strong synthetic feel and appearance. This undesirable synthetic characteristic can only be overcome by dyeing the fabric in two separate dyeing steps. This is a tedious process and can reduce the elastic properties of the fabric. Also, it is limited to denim fabric.
  • Core spun yarns with bi-component polyester filaments in the center and fabrics made from them are disclosed in U.S. Patent Application publication US 2006/0179810 . The disclosure of this patent application publication is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The fabrics produced using the yarn as disclosed in the patent application publication have improved appearance, hand feel and the bi-component polyester filament is covered by the staple fibers, but it still has a "grinning effect". As used in the art, grinning refers to a flaw in the fabric wherein the inner fibers show through the outer fibers. For example, the case where the bi-component polyester filament which is covered by staple fibers shows through the covering of the staple fibers. Additionally, the elongation of the fabric is limited and can only be adjusted by the fabric construction which, in order to get a higher stretchability, resulted in a fabric that was "too soft".
    • SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
  • According to one aspect, there is provided a core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The polyester filament has a denier from about 20 to about 150 and the elastomeric fiber has a denier from 20 to 140.
  • According to another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn, in which the polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
  • According to yet another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn, wherein the elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester fiber.
  • According to still another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn, wherein the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric fiber is drafted from 2.5 to about 4.5 times its original length.
  • According to still further aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn, wherein said polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • The polyester filament may comprise poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex or the polyester filament may comprise poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  • According to still further aspect, there is provided a core spun yarn including a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • Said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
  • The yarn may comprise a sheath of at least one hard fiber having an English cotton count (Ne) from about 4 to about 60.
  • According to another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn comprising a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber, said bi-component polyester filament being drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric fiber is drafted from about 2.5 to about 4.5 its original length.
  • According to yet another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn further including a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  • According to still another aspect, there is provided the core spun yarn, wherein said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
  • According to another aspect, there is provided a woven stretch fabric comprising one of the core spun yarn as previously defined or described in the weft and/or warp.
  • The woven stretch fabric can be a plain woven, twill or satin fabric.
  • Said woven stretch fabric can also be denim and has been subjected to a one-step dyeing process of piece dyed fabric.
  • According to yet another aspect, this fabric has a weft and/or warp elongation from about 10% to about 35%.
  • According to still another aspect, the woven stretch fabric is substantially free of any bi-component polyester filament grinning effect.
    • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
    • Fig. 1 is a schematic side view of one embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
    • Fig. 2 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of Fig. 1;
    • Fig. 3 is a schematic side view of the second embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
    • Fig. 4 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of Fig. 3;
    • Fig. 5 is a schematic side view of the third embodiment of a core spinning apparatus;
    • Fig. 6 is a schematic front view of the core spinning apparatus of Fig. 5;
    • Fig. 7a is an image of the back side of fabric number 4 referred to in Table 2;
    • Fig. 7b is a back side view of fabric number 5 referred to in Table 2;
    • Fig. 8a is an image of a front face view of a fabric produced as disclosed herein; and
    • Fig. 8b is a back side view of the fabric shown in Fig. 8a.
    DETAILED DESCRIPTION
  • This disclosure relates to a bi-component filament core spun yarn which may comprise a bi-component polyester filament and an elastomeric fiber. The bi-component polyester filament may comprise poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate). The denier of the bi-component polyester filament should be in the range of from 20 to 150.
  • The elastomeric fiber is preferably a bare spandex from 20 to 140 denier.
  • According to another aspect of the disclosure, the bi-component polyester filament and the elastomeric fiber are provided with a different draft. By draft is meant the reduction in the linear density of the fiber by drawing. When drafting, the degree of attenuation is calculated as the ratio of the surface speeds of the output and input machine components which bring out drafting. The bi-component polyester filament is drafted from about 1.01 to about 1.30 times its original length and the bare spandex is drafted from about 2.50 to about 4.50 times its original length.
  • According to another aspect, the yarn includes a sheath which forms a composite yarn with the bi-component filaments and elastomeric yarns. The sheath may be staple fibers of a hard yarn. "Hard yarn" refers to relatively unelastic yarns such as polyester, cotton, nylon, viscose rayon, or wool. The sheath may range from Ne 4 to Ne 60. As used herein, Ne is an indirect system of expressing the mass per unit length as one lb. per 840 yards. The fibers of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, nylon, polyester and blends thereof may be used. In general, there is no particular restriction on the staple fibers that can be used provided that the benefits are not affected.
  • An apparatus for making yarn is shown in Figs. 1 and 2. As shown in those figures, there is provided a tube 2 or other source of the bi-component filament 4 mounted on a pair of feed rollers 6. A tube or other source 8 of elastomeric fiber 10 is mounted on a pair of feed rollers 12. The bi-component polyester filament 4 and elastomeric fiber 10 (spandex) are combined and controlled by a guide roller 14 from which the combined bi-component polyester and spandex is fed to the front rollers 16. A tube 18 of roving or hard fibers 20 is provided with the hard fiber being fed through a set of back rollers 22 and then to the front rollers 16. The combined spandex 10 and bi-component polyester filament 4 along with the hard fiber 20 is fed from the front rollers 16 thorough a snail wire 24 into a conventional spinning device 26. As is well known in the art, the spinning device 26 may include a spindle 28, a spinning ring 30 and a balloon controlled ring 32. The combined bi-component polyester filament and spandex and hard fiber are core spun together in the spinning device during the spinning process, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex is covered by the hard fibers to form a component yarn.
  • Both the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are unwound in a counter-clockwise direction as shown in the figures. The draft of the bi-component polyester 4 is controlled by the surface feed ratio of the feed rollers 6 and front roller 16. The draft of the spandex 10 is controlled by the surface speed of its feed rollers 12 and the front roller 16. The speed of the feed rollers 6 of the bi-component filament and 12 of the spandex can be adjusted separately to give the desired draft or stretch ratio.
  • The draft ratio of the bi-component polyester ranges from about 1.01 to 1.3. This ratio is designed based upon the stability of the coverage of the bare bi-component polyester and is not related to the stretchability of the woven fabric. A draft ratio of the spandex ranges from about 2.5 to about 4.5. The ratio is designed according to the stretchability requested on the resulting woven fabric.
  • The bi-component polyester and spandex are combined and controlled by the guide roller 14 properly positioned to achieve the proper coverage. To achieve similar or even higher fabric stretch level as compared to previously known stretch fabrics made from core bi-component polyester spun yarn or bare bi-component polyester filament, it is possible to use just 75 denier of the bi-component polyester filament and 40 denier of spandex to replace, for example, a core 150 denier of the bi-component polyester filament. As the percent of the bi-component polyester is generally less than the prior art core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn, there is no special technique that has to be done in order to improve the coverage of the bare polyester filament.
  • A possible common yarn defect that could happen during the core yarn spinning process is for the bi-component polyester filament or the spandex to somehow break off and not be fed into the guide roller. Such defect would only be noticed upon the manual checking after the full cop or yarn breakage. One way of providing a recognition of this problem at an early stage is to provide turning rollers 34 and 36 for the bi-component filament 4 and spandex fiber 10 as shown in Figs. 3 and 4. As shown in those figures, a turning roller 34 for the bi-component filament 4 is mounted between its feed rollers 6 and the front rollers 16 and the turning roller 36 for the spandex 10 is similarly mounted between its feed rollers 12 and front roller 16. If either the bi-component polyester filament 4 or the spandex 10 is broken, a respective turning roller 34 or 36 will stop rotating providing an indication to a worker that a breakage has occurred and that the operation should be shut down until such problem is corrected. Other than the turning rollers, the remainder of the apparatus of Figs. 3 and 4 is the same as that of Figs. 1 and 2 except that the guide 14 roller may be omitted.
  • Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown in Figs. 5 and 6. In those figures, the bi-component polyester filament and spandex have been combined together in a separate device and are provided for feeding into the spinning device 40 on a tube mounted on feed rollers 42. In this case, the combined bi-component filament and spandex is fed over a single turning roller 44 to the front rollers 16. The roving or hard fiber is fed through the back rollers 22 to the front rollers 16 at which point the two sets of fibers pass into the spinning apparatus 26. In the case where the bi-component polyester filament and spandex are wound together before being put on the feed rollers, such bi-component polyester filament and spandex will have been wound together at their desirable respective draft. However, in this case, there may be a draft of from 1.0 to 1.1 controlled by the surface speed ratio of the feed roller 42 and front roller 16.
  • The core spun bi-component polyester filament and spandex yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a weft stretched, warp stretched, or bi-stretched by using the core spun yarn in a weft, warp and warp and weft directions respectively. The woven stretch fabric may have a fabric weft ranging from 136 g/m2 to 542 g/m2 (4 oz./sq. yd. to 16 oz./sq. yd). The yarn as described herein is suitable for any woven fabric with construction as a plain, Z-twill, S-twill, satin, sateen and any other common construction which is used in such items as denim, pants, and shirts. The fabric construction is designed similar to previously-known stretch fabric made from core spandex yarn or bi-component polyester filament. However, there is no need to have an open construction in order to get stretchability. In the case of the denim stretch woven fabric using the yarn as described herein, the fabric does not require heat set up to maintain good dimensional stability with shrinking less than 7%, elongation not less than 20% and growth less than 4%.
  • A piece dyed stretch fabric, for example, using the weft stretch, using the yarn of the present disclosure, can achieve the lower shrinkage, less than 7%, good elongation not less than 20%, and growth less than 4%, with only an acceptable number of "white spots" occurring on the fabric surface. Also, it is not necessary to use a two-step dyeing process on a woven bi-stretch fabric using the yarn of the present invention as one can achieve a comfort stretch greater than 15% of in the warp and weft direction without any problem of grinning.
  • The following examples demonstrate the yarn of the present disclosure and its capability for use in manufacturing a variety of woven stretch fabrics.
    • Example 1 - Denim Weft Stretch Fabric
  • This example shows the weft stretch denim fabric as shown in Table 1 below. Fabric no. 1 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester and spandex spun yarn in the weft, whereas fabric no. 2 and fabric no. 3 are previously known stretch fabrics made by using core bi-component polyester filament and a bare bi-component polyester filament respectively. As will be noted, fabric no. 1, in accordance with the present invention, obtains a better elongation as compared to fabrics no. 2 and fabric no. 3, and has a 100% cotton feel. Without any heat set process, fabric no. 1 achieves a good dimensional stability (-6.2%), good elongation (20%) and growth (2.5%). Other characteristics are summarized in Table 1. Table 1
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric-Weft Stretch
    Yarn Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 1 Fabric No. 2 Fabric No. 3
    Warp Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi-component polyester filament & 40D spandex Ne10 CSY 150D bi-component polyester filament Bare 600D bi-component polyester filament
    Composition Warp 100% cotton 100% cotton 100% cotton
    Weft 83% cotton 72% cotton 100% polyester
    14% polyester 28% polyester -
    3% spandex - -
    Draft Polyester 1.02 1.02 -
    Spandex 2.5 - -
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" 3/1 "Z" 3/1"Z"
    Fabric Weight
    (g/m2 (oz/sq.yd))    		 Before Wash 417 (12.3) 397 (11.7) 447 (13.2)
    After Wash 454 (13.4) 407 (12.0) 464 (13.7)
    Greige Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 24.4 (62) 23.6 (60) 22.8 (58)
    Weft 18.1 (46) 17.7 (45) 16.5 (42)
    Finished Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 28.3 (72) 27.6 (70) 28.3 (72)
    Weft 19.3 (49) 18.9 (48) 18.1 (46)
    Test# Dimensional
    Stability (%)    		 3
    Washes    		 Warp -3.3 -2.5 -1.8
    Weft -6.2 -2 -4
    Tearing Strength Warp g >6400 >6400 >6400
    lb > 14.08 > 14.08 > 14.08
    Weft g 5300 5600 >6400
    lb 11.7 12.3 > 14.08
    Tensile Strength Warp kg 135 139 106
    lb 297.4 304.9 232.8
    Weft kg 43.7 47.7 157.6
    lb 96.1 104.9 346.7
    Seam Slippage ¼" (kg) Parallel to Warp >18.2 >18.2 >18.2
    Parallel to Weft >18.2 >18.2 >18.2
    Crocking Fastness Dry 3.5 3.5 3.0
    Wet 1 1 1
    Elongation & Warp E/G - -
    Growth (%) Weft E/G 20/2.5 14/1.3 20/2.0
    • Example 2 - One Step Dyed Weft Stretch Fabric
  • This example demonstrates a weft stretch fabric which has been dyed with a single step process. As shown in Table 2, fabric no. 4 is a fabric which uses a weft yarn in accordance with the present disclosure, which is a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex. Fabric no. 5 is a common stretch fabric with the weft yarn being a core bi-component polyester filament only. Both weft yarns had a cotton sheath, and were subjected to a one step dyeing process. As will be noted, fabric no. 4, in accordance with the present disclosure, achieved weft elongation of 21.6% and had growth of 1.9% and good stability of 3.5%. One significant advantage as compared to the use of the bare bi-component polyester filament or core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is that the exposure of the bare polyester filament is improved. As shown in Fig. 7a, no bare polyester can be seen on fabric no. 4. On the other hand, Fig. 7b shows exposure of the bare polyester filament of the fabric no. 5. Using yarns according to the present disclosure eliminates necessity of a two-step dyeing process which is cost consuming. Table 2
    Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - Weft Stretch < one part dyed >
    Yarn Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 4 Fabric No. 5
    Warp Yarn Ne7 Slub Ne7 Slub
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi-component polyester filament & 40D spandex Ne10 CSY 150D bi-component polyester filament
    Composition Warp 100% cotton 100% cotton
    Weft 84% cotton 73% cotton
    13% polyester 27% polyester
    3% spandex -
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1"Z" 3/1"Z"
    Fabric Weight (g/m2 (oz/sq.yd)) Before Wash 373 (11.0) 373 (11.0)
    After Wash 386 (11.4) 383 (11.3)
    Greige Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 22.8 (58) 22.8 (58)
    Weft 16.5 (42) 16.5 (42)
    Finished Fabric Density (per cm (per inch) Warp 27.2 (69) 26 (66)
    Weft 17.3 (44) 17.3 (44)
    Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3
    Washes    		 Warp -1.5 -1.5
    Weft -3.5 -2.7
    Elongation & Growth (%) Warp E/G -
    Weft E/G 21.6/1.9 16/1.5
    • Example 3 - Bi-stretch Denim Fabric
  • This example shows the advantage of the use of yarns in accordance with the present disclosure in bi-stretch denim fabric as shown in Table 3. Fabric no. 6 uses yarns in accordance with the present disclosure and comprises a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex spun yarn both in the warp and weft direction. Fabric no. 7 comprises only a core bi-component polyester filament in the warp and weft as in previously known stretch fabrics. As shown in the table, fabric no. 6, has a higher stretch power (29%) in the weft direction. Further, the concern of exposure of the bare polyester in the warp of the previously known core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn is not a problem with the fabric no. 6 as the percentage of the polyester is much less. In this example, the exposure of the bare polyester was not seen on the finished fabric using the yarns in the present disclosure. The fabric's characteristic is summarized in Table 3. Table 3
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-stretch
    Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 6 Fabric No. 7
    Warp Yarn Ne 7 CSY 75 denier bi-component filament + 40D spandex slub Ne 7 CSY 150 denier bi-component filament slub
    Weft Yarn Ne 10CSY 75 denier bi.component filament + 70D spandex Ne 10CSY 150 denier bi-component filament
    Composition Warp 88% cotton, 10% polyester, 2% spandex 81 % cotton, 19% polyester
    Weft 82% cotton, 14% polyester, 4% spandex 73% cotton, 27% polyester
    Draft Polyester 1.02 1.06
    Spandex 40D 2.5 -
    Spandex 70D 3.5 -
    Fabric Construction 3/1 "Z" 3/1"Z"
    Greige Fabric Width (cm (Inch)) 170 (67.0) 170 (67.0)
    Finished Fabric Width (cm (Inch)) 132 (52.0) 146 (57.5)
    Fabric Weight (g/m2 (oz/sq.yd)) Before Wash 464 (13.7) 424 (12.5)
    After Wash 522 (15.4) 427 (12.6)
    Greige Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 21.3 (54) 21.3 (54)
    Weft 19.7 (50) 16.5 (42)
    Finished Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 27.2 (69) 24.8 (63)
    Weft 23.2 (59) 20.1 (51)
    Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Washes Weft -6 -3.0
    Warp -6.5 -2.3
    Elongation (%) Warp E/G 20 / 3.2 20.6 / 2.6
    Growth (%) Weft E/G 29 / 2.2 16.0 / 1.2
    • Example 4 - Bi-stretch Denim Fabric with Different Combination of the Denier
  • This example shows the availabilitv of fabrics using yarns in accordance with the present disclosure to reach the desired stretchability by adjusting the denier of the spandex/bi-component filament and the draft (if needed). The warp yarn in each of the Fabrics no. 8-11 is in accordance with the present disclosure and uses a core bi-component polyester filament spun yarn at Ne7. The weft yarn in each of the fabrics comprises a different denier of the filament/spandex spun yarn at Ne8. They are:
    • Fabric no. 8: 75 denier filament and 70 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
    • Fabric no. 9: 75 denier filament and 40 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
    • Fabric no. 10: 150 denier filament and 40 denier spandex, in accordance with the present disclosure.
    • Fabric no. 11: 150 denier filament (previously known stretch fabric).
  • The fabric characteristics are summarized in Table 4. After finishing, fabrics nos. 8, 9 and 10, those in accordance with the present disclosure, have reasonable stretch ranging from 21% to 27% with good recovery, (growth less than 2.4%). With the conventional fabric no. 11, with a core bi-component polyester filament only, the stretch power was much lower at 15%. It should be noted that since the warp yarn is all the same, the elongation and growth are substantially the same at 18% and between 1.4% and 2.0% respectively. This shows that without using the open end construction, it is possible to get desirable stretch power in any application with yarns according to the present disclosure. Table 4
    Denim Woven Stretch Fabric - combination of denier and draft
    Sample No. Fabric No. 8* Fabric No. 9* Fabric No. 10* Fabric No. 11*
    Yarn Warp Ne7 CSY 150D bi-component filament Slub Ne7 CSY 150D bi-component filament Slub Ne7CSY 150D bi-component filament Slub Ne7CSY 150D bi-component filament Slub
    Weft Ne 8 CSY 75 denier bi-component filament + 70D spandex Ne 8 CSY 75 denier bi-component filament + 40D spandex Ne 8 CSY 150 denier bi-component filament + 40D spandex Ne 8 CSY 150 denier bi-component filament
    Composition Warp 81.4% cotton, 18.6% polyester 81.4% cotton, 18.6% polyester 81.4% cotton, 18.6% polyester 81.4% cotton, 18.6% polyester
    Weft 86% cotton, 11% polyester, 3% spandex 87% cotton, 11 % polyester, 2% spandex 77% cotton, 21% polyester, 2% spandex 78% cotton, 22% polyester
    Draft Polyester 150D 1.06 1.06 1.06 1.06
    Polyester 75D 1.02 1.02 - -
    Spandex 70D 3.5 - - -
    Spandex 40D - 3.5 3.5 -
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1"Z" 3/1 "Z" 3/1"Z" 3/1 "Z"
    Greige Fabric Width (cm (inch) 170 (67.0) 171 (67.5) 170 (67.0) 169 (66.6)
    Finished Fabric Width (cm (inch) 138 (54.5) 143 (56.5) 141 (55.5) 149 (58.5)
    Fabric Weight (g/m2((oz/sq.yd)) Before Wash 458 (13.5) 434 (12.8) 451 (13.3) 414 (12.2)
    After Wash 515 (15.2) 468 (13.8) 478 (14.1) 441 (13.0)
    Greige Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 21.3 (54) 21.3 (54) 21.3 (54) 21.3 (54)
    Weft 17.3 (44) 17.3 (44) 17.3 (44) 17.3 (44)
    Finished Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 26.8 (68) 24.8 (63) 25.2 (64) 23.6 (60)
    Weft 19.3 (49) 19.3 (49) 19.3 (49) 19.3 (49)
    Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Washes Warp -4.5 -5.5 -5 -5.0
    Weft -7 -6 -5.7 -2.5
    Elongation (%) Warp E/G 18 / 1.6 18/1.4 18/1.6 18.0/2.0
    Growth (%) Waft E/G 27 / 2.4 21/2.2 22/1.8 15.0/1.8
    * represents this present invention in the weft
    • Example 5
  • This example shows the use of the yarns of the present disclosure on a bi-stretch fabric undergoing a one-step dyeing process as set forth in Table 5. The example demonstrates a fabric with a core bi-component polyester filament and spandex in Ne10 both in the warp and the weft. Using only a one-step dyeing process the finished fabric still has a good appearance with an acceptable grinning effect. Fig. 8a shows the front face side of the fabric no. 12 of this example while Fig. 8b shows the backside view of fabric no. 12. As will be noted, neither the front nor the back view show any significant sign or grinning. This is achieved with the elongation in the warp and weft being 15% and 16.6% respectively. Other characteristics of the finished fabric are shown in Table 5. Table 5
    Piece Dyed Woven Stretch Fabric - bi-stretch
    Fabric Sample No. Fabric No. 12
    Yarn Warp Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi-component polyester filament & 40D spandex
    Weft Yarn Ne10 CSY 75D bi-component polyester filament & 40D spandex
    Warp 83% cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex
    Composition Weft 83% cotton, 14% polyester, 3% spandex
    Draft Polyester 1.02
    Spandex 2.5
    Fabric Fabric Construction 3/1"Z"
    Fabric Weight (g/m2 (oz/sq.yd)) Before Wash 376 (11.1)
    After Wash 397 (11.7)
    Greige Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 26.8 (68)
    Weft 15.7 (40)
    Finished Fabric Density (per cm (per inch)) Warp 32.7 (83)
    Weft 18.5 (47)
    Test Dimensional Stability (%) 3 Washes Warp -5
    Weft -1.6
    Elongation (%) & Growth (%) Warp E/G 15.1/2
    Weft E/G 16.6/2
  • While various embodiments have been shown and described, various modifications and substitutions should be made thereto. Accordingly, it is understood that the present embodiments have been described by way of illustration and not limitations.

Claims (13)

  1. A core spun yarn comprising:
    a bi-component polyester filament; and
    an elastomeric fiber,
    said polyester filament having a denier from about 20 to about 150 and said elastomeric fiber having a denier from 20 to 140.
  2. The yarn of claim 1, wherein the elastomeric fiber has a higher draft than the bi-component polyester filament.
  3. The yarn of claim 1 or 2, wherein the bi-component polyester filament is drafted from 1.01 to about 1.3 times its original length and the elastomeric fiber is drafted from 2.5 to about 4.5 times its original length.
  4. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the polyester filament is about 2 weight percent to about 60 weight percent, based on total weight of the yarn and the elastomeric fiber is from about 1 percent to about 40 percent, based on total weight of the yarn.
  5. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said polyester filament comprises poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) and said elastomeric fiber is spandex.
  6. The yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5 further including a sheath of at least one staple fiber.
  7. The yarn of claim 6, wherein said staple fiber is selected from a group consisting of cotton, viscose rayon, wool, polyester and blends thereof.
  8. The yarn of claim 6 or 7, comprising a sheath of at least one hard fiber having an English cotton count (Ne) from about 4 to about 60.
  9. A woven stretch fabric comprising the core spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in the weft and/or warp.
  10. The woven stretch fabric of claim 9, wherein the fabric is a plain woven, twill or satin fabric.
  11. The woven stretch fabric of claim 10, wherein the fabric is denim and has been subjected to a one-step dyeing process of piece dyed fabric.
  12. The woven stretch fabric according to any one of claims 9 to 11 which has a weft and/or warp elongation from about 10% to about 35%.
  13. The woven stretch fabric according to any one of claims 9 to 12 which is substantially free of any bi-component polyester filament grinning effect.
EP20070114713 2007-06-20 2007-08-21 Core spun yarn and woven stretch fabric Withdrawn EP2006422A1 (en)

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Cited By (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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WO2009141469A1 (en) * 2008-05-20 2009-11-26 Pinter, S.A. Method and apparatus for the production of elastic yarns
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WO2011003452A1 (en) 2009-07-09 2011-01-13 Amsler Tex Ag Device and method for making a core yarn
CN102704120A (en) * 2012-06-26 2012-10-03 东华大学 Smooth composite spinning mechanism and method of short fiber whisker strip clamped by double filaments via unequal tension
CN112410964A (en) * 2013-01-16 2021-02-26 服饰与高级纺织英国有限公司 Drawn yarn and fabric with multiple elastic yarns
CN103243470A (en) * 2013-04-28 2013-08-14 王胜利 Spinning method and product of high-cotton-content high-elasticity wear-resistant cloth
CN103233307A (en) * 2013-05-09 2013-08-07 南通天虹银海实业有限公司 Forward-reversed twisted composite line containing cotton fiber, spandex and filament and manufacturing process thereof
CN103388208A (en) * 2013-07-31 2013-11-13 安徽裕华纺织有限公司 Pure cotton slub elastic stocking yarn and manufacturing process thereof
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KR20160070114A (en) * 2013-10-14 2016-06-17 인비스타 테크놀러지스 에스.에이 알.엘. Stretch circular knit fabrics with multiple elastic yarns
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WO2015081592A1 (en) * 2013-12-04 2015-06-11 湛江中湛纺织有限公司 New composite elastic yarn, textile fabric, and preparing method and device therefor
WO2016135211A3 (en) * 2015-02-24 2017-01-12 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Filamentary core for an elastic yarn, elastic composite yarn, textile fabric and apparatus and method for manufacturing said elastic yarn
US11499251B2 (en) 2015-02-24 2022-11-15 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Filamentary core for an elastic yarn, elastic composite yarn, textile fabric and apparatus and method for manufacturing said elastic yarn
US10704168B2 (en) 2015-02-24 2020-07-07 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Filamentary core for an elastic yarn, elastic composite yarn, textile fabric and apparatus and method for manufacturing said elastic yarn
CH711736A1 (en) * 2015-11-11 2017-05-15 Rieter Ag Maschf Process for producing elastic core yarn with a ring spinning machine.
EP3452647A4 (en) * 2016-05-05 2020-09-02 Arvind Limited A stretchable fabric and a method, a wrinkle-free fabric and garments thereof
EP3358053A1 (en) * 2017-02-06 2018-08-08 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi Ve Ticaret Anonim Sirketi Flexible and recovering fabric and yarn for obtaining thereof
EP3540105A1 (en) 2018-03-16 2019-09-18 Bossa Ticaret Ve Sanayi Isletmeleri Turk Anonim Sirketi An elastic core sheat composite yarn, a yarn production method and a fabric produced by this yarn
WO2021083527A1 (en) * 2019-10-31 2021-05-06 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi Ve Ticaret Anonim Sirketi Elastic yarn, knitted textile material and sock made with the elastic yarn
CN111534900A (en) * 2020-05-08 2020-08-14 杭州新天元织造有限公司 Production process of cool thin wool-like spinning fabric
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