EP1971407B1 - Sicherungs- und abseilvorrichtung für einzel- oder doppelseil - Google Patents

Sicherungs- und abseilvorrichtung für einzel- oder doppelseil Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1971407B1
EP1971407B1 EP07717750A EP07717750A EP1971407B1 EP 1971407 B1 EP1971407 B1 EP 1971407B1 EP 07717750 A EP07717750 A EP 07717750A EP 07717750 A EP07717750 A EP 07717750A EP 1971407 B1 EP1971407 B1 EP 1971407B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
carabiner
retaining element
belaying device
rope
belaying
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
EP07717750A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1971407A2 (de
Inventor
Paul Petzl
Laurent Perrod
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Zedel SAS
Original Assignee
Zedel SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Zedel SAS filed Critical Zedel SAS
Publication of EP1971407A2 publication Critical patent/EP1971407A2/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1971407B1 publication Critical patent/EP1971407B1/de
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62BDEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62BDEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • A62B1/18Other single parts for rope lowering-devices, e.g. take-up rollers for ropes, devices for shooting ropes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • This type of safety device is designed to accompany and secure the evolution of climbers, especially during the progression of the first rope that is provided by the second climber in case of a fall. It can also be used to ensure the second roped when the leader of the rope has reached a secure point. In addition to the insurance functions of the first or second roped, the device also allows rappelling to ensure the safety of the descender by allowing it to slow its pace.
  • first type of belay inserts in the form of a tube with one or two slots, the tube being attached to a retaining loop.
  • the handle When sliding the rope in normal operation, the presence of the handle prevents the body from moving away from a carabiner through said loop, but the carabiner can move within the opening defined by the handle .
  • the carabiner In the event of the first roped off, the carabiner is pressed against the body when the rope is blocked. A manual unlocking action is then necessary to release the rope, which is not always easy for the insurer in the presence of a wet rope, and with gloved hands.
  • a second type of belay pad uses a two-slot plate on which a coil spring is crimped.
  • the carabiner passes through one or two loops depending on whether the rope is single or double, and compresses the spring during blocking.
  • the unblocking of the rope intervenes by the relaxation of the spring after disappearance of the tensile force on the rope, but the absence of maintenance of the body favors its removal from the carabiner.
  • Toucan having a movable flange articulated on the fixed body of the device, so as to switch between a close position and an extended position.
  • the relative distance of the body relative to the fastening carabiner through said loop, is not optimized when the flange is in the deployed position.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a versatile belay device for combining on the same device the functions of unlocking the rope and maintaining the body of the device, so as to obtain optimum security belay .
  • the belay device is characterized, as claimed, in that it further comprises elastic means arranged to bring the body of the carabiner close during a locking of the rope, and to remove it automatically when unlocking.
  • the elastic means may be integral with the retaining element, or be separated from the latter by being attached directly to the body.
  • the retaining element is made by means of a flexible material constituting said elastic means, and is provided with an attachment member and / or a holding part of the carabiner.
  • the metal body with one or two slots may be formed by a tubular plate, or a central flange on which is reported a U-shaped stirrup.
  • the retaining element may be constituted by an elastic loop attached to the belay device to allow the maintenance of the carabiner in the vicinity of the body, and promote the unlocking of the rope in case of decrease in mechanical tension.
  • a belay device 10 for rope 11 comprises a metal body 12 arranged in a tubular plate, which is provided with two slots 13, 14 oblong for the passage of the rope.
  • the two slots 13, 14 are parallel, and arranged side by side, being separated from one another by an intermediate wall.
  • a retaining element 16 comprises a loop 17, whose two ends are secured to the body 12 by crimping or any other method of attachment.
  • the handle 17 is situated in a plane extending perpendicular to the internal face 18 of the body 12, and is made by means of a flexible material allowing elastic deformation during the locking of the rope 11.
  • the handle 17 is made by means of a very resistant plastic sheath, in which can be integrated an internal reinforcing reinforcement.
  • the handle 17 can also be constituted by a very flexible cable.
  • An attachment member 19 is located at the middle portion of the handle 17 to allow the introduction of a carabiner 20.
  • the fastener 19 is formed by way of example by an intermediate closed turn 22 arranged inside the handle 17, and having an internal diameter corresponding to the section of the carabiner 20. The latter is held without play in the fastener 19, and extends orthogonally with respect to the handle 17
  • the turn 22 is shaped by a bracelet 23 crimped on the handle 17.
  • the handle 17 constitutes the deformable connecting member between the body 12 and the ring of the harness.
  • the insurer who is for example the second climber, controls the free sliding of the rope 11, because the handle 17 remains in the position removed from the figure 1 .
  • the carabiner 20 also remains in the remote position by promoting the free sliding of the rope 11.
  • the handle 17 keeps the carabiner 20 in this position, but without moving away from the belay device 10. The relative movement of body 12 with respect to the carabiner 20 passing through the loop 21, is thus controlled.
  • the presence of the elastic loop 17 of the belay device 10 allows both to maintain the carabiner 20 in the vicinity of the body 12, and to promote the unlocking of the rope 11 in the absence of mechanical tension.
  • the material of the loop 17 is chosen to allow the bidirectional bending between the close positions ( figure 2 ) and discarded ( figure 1 ).
  • the carabiner 20 is made integral with the handle 17 by means of a holding part 24, in particular an elastomer. The carabiner 20 is then mounted captive.
  • the handle 17 is made of rigid or semi-rigid material, but without being elastic.
  • the loop 17 is independent of the elastic means, which are formed by a skirt 32 of elastic deformable material, for example elastomer or rubber, said skirt being attached to the body 12 under the slots 13, 14.
  • the body 12 with slots 13, 14 is connected on the side of the inner face 18 to two compression springs 27, 28 in connection with a support 29.
  • the central portion of the latter is pierced with a circular orifice 30 for the passage of the carabiner 20.
  • the two springs 27, 28 are preferably identical.
  • the figure 6 relates to the belay device 100 described in the document EP-A-1221327 , and comprising a metal body 120 having a central flange 31 on which is reported a U-shaped stirrup 31a so as to delimit the two slots 13, 14 on either side of the flange 31.
  • the handle 17, on instead of being rigid like the metal flange 31, is replaced by the handle 17 according to the invention and illustrated by way of example in figure 1 of this application.
  • the slotted body 12, 14 is equipped with a helical spring 33 fixed to the body 12, and extending in the direction of the fixed loop-shaped retaining element 17.
  • the height of the loop 17 is greater than the axial length of the helical spring 33.
  • the helical spring 33 is extended by a closed turn 34 serving to hook the carabiner, and acting as the retaining element.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Management (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)
  • Package Frames And Binding Bands (AREA)
  • Pulleys (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Sicherungsvorrichtung (10, 100) für ein Seil (11), die umfasst:
    • einen Metallkörper (12, 120) mit mindestens einem Schlitz (13, 14) zum Durchführen einer Schlinge (21) eines Seils (11),
    • ein Rückhalteelement (16), das fest mit dem Körper (12, 120) verbunden ist, ohne an diesen angelenkt zu sein, und das dazu vorgesehen ist, das jeweilige Entfernen des Körpers vom Karabinerhaken (20) zu steuern, der durch die Schlinge (21) geführt ist,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ferner elastische Mittel umfasst, die so angeordnet sind, dass sie bei einer Blockierung des Seils (11) den Körper (12, 120) dem Karabinerhaken (20) annähern und ihn bei aufgehobener Blockierung wieder davon zu entfernen.
  2. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die elastischen Mittel fest mit dem Rückhalteelement (16) verbunden sind.
  3. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die elastischen Mittel fest mit dem Körper (12, 120) verbunden und dabei von dem Rückhalteelement (16) getrennt sind.
  4. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Rückhalteelement (16) mittels eines weichen Materials hergestellt ist, das die elastischen Mittel bildet.
  5. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Rückhalteelement (16) mit einem Einhängeelement (19) und/oder einem Halteelement (24) für den Karabinerhaken (20) versehen ist.
  6. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Rückhalteelement (16) als elastische, verformbare Öse (17) ausgebildet ist.
  7. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Einhängeelement (19) von einer geschlossenen Zwischenschlaufe (22) gebildet wird, die innerhalb der Öse (17) angeordnet ist, wobei die genannte Schlaufe einen Innendurchmesser hat, der dem Querschnitt des Karabinerhakens (20) entspricht.
  8. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Schlaufe (22) von einem an der Öse (17) eingesetzten Ring (23) gebildet wird.
  9. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Halteelement (24) des Rückhalteelements so vorgesehen ist, dass der Karabinerhaken (20) unverlierbar ist.
  10. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Körper (12) in Form einer röhrenförmigen Platte mit zwei Schlitzen (13, 14) vorgesehen ist und mittels zwei Druckfedern (27, 28) mit einer Halterung (29) verbunden ist, die eine Öffnung (30) für das Durchführen des Karabinerhakens (20) aufweist.
  11. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Metallkörper (120) einen zentralen Flansch (31) aufweist, an dem ein U-förmiger Bügel (32) befestigt ist, um die beiden Schlitze (13, 14) zu begrenzen.
  12. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die elastischen Mittel von einer Umrandung aus verformbarem Material gebildet werden, welche Umrandung unter den Schlitzen (13, 14) des Körpers (12) angebracht ist.
  13. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die elastischen Mittel von einer an dem Körper (12) befestigten Schraubenfeder gebildet werden, die sich in der Richtung des Rückhalteelements (16) erstreckt.
  14. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Rückhalteelement (16) in Form einer Öse (17) eine Höhe hat, die die Axiallänge der Schraubenfeder (33) übersteigt.
  15. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Schraubenfeder (33) durch eine geschlossene Windung (34) verlängert ist, die zur Befestigung eines Karabinerhakens dient und als Rückhalteelement (16) fungiert.
EP07717750A 2006-01-12 2007-01-10 Sicherungs- und abseilvorrichtung für einzel- oder doppelseil Expired - Fee Related EP1971407B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0600284A FR2895912B1 (fr) 2006-01-12 2006-01-12 Appareil d'assurage et de rappel pour corde simple ou double
PCT/FR2007/000039 WO2007080316A2 (fr) 2006-01-12 2007-01-10 Appareil d’assurage et de rappel pour corde simple ou double

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1971407A2 EP1971407A2 (de) 2008-09-24
EP1971407B1 true EP1971407B1 (de) 2010-05-26

Family

ID=36950271

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP07717750A Expired - Fee Related EP1971407B1 (de) 2006-01-12 2007-01-10 Sicherungs- und abseilvorrichtung für einzel- oder doppelseil

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US8312965B2 (de)
EP (1) EP1971407B1 (de)
CN (1) CN101400411B (de)
DE (1) DE602007006751D1 (de)
ES (1) ES2346584T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2895912B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2007080316A2 (de)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102012011572A1 (de) * 2012-06-13 2013-12-19 Edelrid Gmbh & Co. Kg Sicherungsvorrichtung für ein Kletterseil
DE102021115504A1 (de) 2021-06-15 2022-12-15 Edelrid Gmbh & Co. Kg Seilsicherungsgerät für die Partnersicherung beim Klettern

Families Citing this family (17)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2310501B1 (es) * 2008-08-29 2010-01-05 Faders, S.A. Dispositivo para escalada.
FR2938445B1 (fr) * 2008-11-19 2010-12-31 Zedel Appareil d'assurage multifonctionnel pour corde
WO2010088566A1 (en) * 2009-02-02 2010-08-05 Ayre William H Rope handling device with secondary locking feature
CN101711910B (zh) * 2009-07-14 2011-12-21 应小平 一种便携式自动下降装置
IT1396181B1 (it) * 2009-07-15 2012-11-16 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo assicuratore
US20110114415A1 (en) * 2009-11-18 2011-05-19 Young Chu Belay device with a sliding slack bar
KR101138435B1 (ko) 2010-04-19 2012-04-26 이정빈 안전성과 편의성을 증진시킨 하강기
CH701645B1 (de) * 2010-05-19 2011-02-28 Mammut Sports Group Ag Sicherungsgerät zur Sicherung von Seilen
FR2967077B1 (fr) * 2010-11-04 2013-06-14 Zedel Bloqueur pour corde a tenue mecanique renforcee
IT1403628B1 (it) * 2011-01-13 2013-10-31 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo assicuratore e discensore
US20130126272A1 (en) * 2011-11-22 2013-05-23 Lars Remsen Belay device for climbers and related system and method
WO2013166748A1 (zh) * 2012-05-10 2013-11-14 He Shaodun 一种悬吊器
US9623269B2 (en) 2013-03-14 2017-04-18 Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. Systems for assisted braking belay with a cam-clutch mechanism
FR3011476B1 (fr) * 2013-10-07 2016-04-01 Simond Ets Dispositif de liaison deplacable et amovible le long d'une corde
CN103691111B (zh) * 2014-01-03 2015-07-29 张琦 一种登山绳下滑器
USD763064S1 (en) * 2014-06-09 2016-08-09 Aludesign S.P.A. Tube-style belay device
WO2016192811A1 (en) * 2015-06-05 2016-12-08 Wild Country Ltd Camming device

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US629548A (en) * 1899-05-23 1899-07-25 Frank K Bowers Fire-escape.
US3814210A (en) * 1973-02-05 1974-06-04 Bear Mfg Corp Rope climbing device
FR2631325A1 (fr) * 1988-05-16 1989-11-17 Rossignol Pascal Frein et bloqueur manuel sur corde, permettant la descente controlee d'une personne ou d'une charge a l'aide d'une corde simple ou double
DE8904030U1 (de) * 1989-04-01 1989-05-24 Erlacher, Rudolf, Dipl.-Phys., 8000 Muenchen, De
FR2719227B1 (fr) * 1994-04-27 1996-06-07 Alp Tech Descendeur autobloquant.
FR2818914B1 (fr) * 2001-01-04 2003-08-15 Zedel Dispositif assureur descendeur pour l'escalade ou l'alpinisme
US6561313B2 (en) * 2001-08-16 2003-05-13 Trimorphics, Inc. Belay/rappel device for use in climbing activities and the like
USD466794S1 (en) * 2002-05-03 2002-12-10 Andrew Malkiel Climbing belay device
US7963366B2 (en) * 2006-02-16 2011-06-21 Tony Christianson Split tube belay device
US7500290B2 (en) * 2006-07-16 2009-03-10 Gregory Lee Klingler Simple climber's multi-tool
USD593844S1 (en) * 2008-06-05 2009-06-09 Zedel Climbing apparatus
WO2010088566A1 (en) * 2009-02-02 2010-08-05 Ayre William H Rope handling device with secondary locking feature
IT1396181B1 (it) * 2009-07-15 2012-11-16 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo assicuratore
US20110011671A1 (en) * 2009-07-16 2011-01-20 Young Chu Belaying apparatus with friction claw for climbing
US20110114415A1 (en) * 2009-11-18 2011-05-19 Young Chu Belay device with a sliding slack bar

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102012011572A1 (de) * 2012-06-13 2013-12-19 Edelrid Gmbh & Co. Kg Sicherungsvorrichtung für ein Kletterseil
DE102012011572B4 (de) 2012-06-13 2021-07-29 Edelrid Gmbh & Co. Kg Sicherungsvorrichtung für ein Kletterseil
DE102021115504A1 (de) 2021-06-15 2022-12-15 Edelrid Gmbh & Co. Kg Seilsicherungsgerät für die Partnersicherung beim Klettern

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007080316A2 (fr) 2007-07-19
FR2895912A1 (fr) 2007-07-13
EP1971407A2 (de) 2008-09-24
CN101400411B (zh) 2010-08-11
US20090026011A1 (en) 2009-01-29
CN101400411A (zh) 2009-04-01
DE602007006751D1 (de) 2010-07-08
US8312965B2 (en) 2012-11-20
WO2007080316A3 (fr) 2007-08-30
FR2895912B1 (fr) 2008-03-07
ES2346584T3 (es) 2010-10-18

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