EP1917073A1

EP1917073A1 - Composition for depilation

Info

Publication number: EP1917073A1
Application number: EP06762166A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Walter Marte; Martin Meyer; Hans Dutler; Michael Zimmermann
Original assignee: Tex-A-Tec AG; TEX A TEC AG
Current assignee: Tex-A-Tec AG; TEX A TEC AG
Priority date: 2005-06-23
Filing date: 2006-06-23
Publication date: 2008-05-07
Also published as: WO2006136440A1; WO2006136441A1; EP1779899A1; EP1736207A1

Abstract

The inventive cosmetic composition for hair removal uses aluminum complexes or zinc complexes of thioglycolic acid, which are soluble in solvents and which serve to cleave the cystine-sulfur bridges, and tertiary amines in the form of solvolysis catalysts. The use of a system of this type enables, even with a relatively low pH value of 10.5, a rapid removal of hair while being gentle on the skin. A further reduction of the depilation time can be achieved by using catalysts for micellar catalysis and phase transfer catalysis in conjunction with mercapto compounds.

Description

Composition for depilation

Background of the invention

The invention relates to a cosmetic hair removal system from a Depilierungs- formulation that allows a hair growth adapted minimized dosage of depilation mass. The scope of application covers all body parts covered with hair, including the intimate and facial area.

The objectives of such Depilierungssysteme are, following the cosmetic fashion trend, in the rapid, gentle and painless hair removal, without causing skin irritation and odor nuisance. It is very important that the hair protein fragments as quickly as possible while the skin protein, especially the stratum corneum, is not attacked. This is possible due to the different structure of the hair and skin protein. The hair protein consists of α-keratin and collagen, whereby the α-helices are cross-linked via disulfide bridges. The strength of the hair protein is enhanced by the fact that three helical strands wrap around each other and form a superhelix, the interstices of which contain fats of different composition (eg free fatty acids, triglycerides, free cholesterol, ester waxes) (AL Lehninger, DL Nelson, MM Cox, Principles of Biochemistry , Spektrum Akademischer Verlag Heidelberg Berlin Oxford, 1994). The proportion of cysteine to form the cystine can be up to 18% of the hair protein. According to these conditions, the solvolysis of the hair consists in the reductive cleavage of cystine (disulfide bridge) with the alkaline-catalyzed peptide defibrillation, which proceeds largely diffusion-controlled. Since the stratum corneum contains no cystine as the essential protective layer of the skin, its solvolysis mechanism is clearly different from the hair protein. This allows selective fragmentation of the hair protein by appropriate choice of depilation ingredients. By controlling reaction parameters of the hair solvolysis process in the various reaction steps and the use of new system-appropriate application systems can be met the aforementioned requirements.

State of the art

Depilation systems commercially available today show a great diversity in their design. Especially common are creams and foams that differ only insignificantly in their chemical formulations and application forms. Typical examples of said forms of application are: cream, spray, gel, gel cream, cold / warm wax, epilation equipment, as well as wet and dry shaving for legs, bikini areas, armpit, face, genital area, and breast hair.

To reduce odor and to protect against bacterial attack, the formulations are blended with fragrances (e.g., peppermint, eucalyptus, nerol, farnesol, rose oil, etc.) and bactericides (eucalyptus, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and their esters, etc.). Further ingredients of Depilierungscremes for swelling enhancement of hair are urea and its derivatives.

Other depilation systems, the formulation of which has a lower viscosity compared to creams, are packaged in packaging such as vials, pots, tubes, tubes, etc., and are applied in thin layers by means of a coater, sponge pad or tissue. Such an example is "ex-hair roll-on" (Medosan) .These systems show clear advantages in comparison with creams and foams, since the risk of contamination by the depilation mass with body parts such as hands, eyes, etc. and the application dose of the depilatory mass is much lower.

Common to all these systems is the very high pH, which is mostly 13 and higher, and the relatively high concentration of the depilatory thioglycollic acid used in most products, with a concentration of up to 0.8 mol / l , The thioglycolic acid is usually used as sodium, potassium and / or calcium salt, in conjunction with sodium and potassium hydroxide solution and CaI ciumhydroxid used. Due to the limited biocompatibility of commercially available formulations, skin irritations occur, which in turn are controlled by appropriate formulation ingredients such as chamomile extract (azulen) and arnica extract.

Due to the very high pH of most depilation formulations, these are also not in the genital area or at other critical body sites such. applicable in the face. Further ingredients used as standard are thickening components, such as e.g. Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, sorbitol and polysaccharides or their derivatives, as well as dispersants and emulsifiers. Some important manufacturers of such depilation systems are: Gillette, Reckitt Benckiser, PILCA (GlaxoSmith-Kline), SNEAEPIL (Rufin), XEPIL (Sternmark), NAIR (Church & Dwight), and NADS.

Object of the invention

An object of the invention is to provide a fast acting, gentle and low odor composition for the painless removal of hair without causing skin irritation. Another object of the invention is to provide a composition with which the depilation time can be reduced. Another object is to provide an application system for the above depilation formulation which can simultaneously perform a peeling function that removes the hair. When designing the application system, the risk of undesired contamination, e.g. the hands are minimized by the Dephierungsmasse and environmentally sound disposal of the used Depilierungssystemes be possible.

Solution of the task

The object is achieved by a hair removal cosmetic composition containing at least one fat dissolving compound having a Godfrey M number of 1 to 18, at least one mercapto compound, and at least one amine compound. The removal of the hair preferably proceeds in three steps: the first comprises solvating or optionally dissolving and emulsifying the hair-protecting fat (= hydrolipid layer) with the aid of the "degreasing system" contained in the composition, which in particular comprises the fat-dissolving compound , As a result, the attack is favored by the solvolysis of the hair triggering agents.

The second step comprises the preferably catalyzed solvolysis process of the hair, which can be subdivided into hydrogen bonds and disulfide bridges (cystine) splitting and subordinate into peptide-cleaving reactions. The corresponding ingredients are summarized in the "solvolysis system" of the depilation formulation.

The third, optional step involves the removal of the depilation mass with the hair fragments from the skin through a peeling process.

Description of the invention in detail

1. Degreasing system: Removal and mobilization of the fatty layer

The hair removal takes place in particular by cleavage of the cystine sulfur bridges. In order for the ingredients required for the cleavage of the sulfur bridges to arrive at their place of action, the removal of the hair surrounding hydrolipid layer (= protective layer of fat that surrounds the hair) is advantageous. The degreasing of the hair is thus the first step and is advantageously by the use of at least one fat-dissolving compound, preferably in combination with at least one substantially water-insoluble, fat-sorbing compound, preferably in combination with at least one water-soluble or water miscible dispersant or emulsifier performed. Preferably, the cosmetic composition additionally contains water. Thus, for example, the degreasing system may comprise four constituents, namely a fat-dissolving compound, a fat-sorbing compound, an emulsifier or dispersant and water. The individual components have the following functions: The fat-dissolving compound (also known as fat-solvent) dissolves the fat from the hair and mobilizes, ie transports it eg in the water or in the oil phase Fat solvent solubilized or dissolved and thus is mobile, it comes through the fat-sorbent compound (also called fat sorbent) to a sorption, ie partial immobilization of the hair fat in the oil phase or the surfactant micelles of the emulsion, which is the fat Sorbent comprises or consists of it.

The fatliquoring agents thus allow the transport of the hair fat from the hair into the oil phase of the emulsion in which it is partially immobilized by the fat sorbent. By immobilizing the hair fat in the oil phase or the surfactant micelles of the emulsion, the distribution equilibrium between fats sorbed on hair or fats dissolved in the aqueous phase is shifted in favor of the portion sorbed in the oil phase.

The dispersants or emulsifiers which are preferably used are surface-active agents which, inter alia, also bring about the stabilization of the oil phase in the aqueous phase and thus the formation of the emulsion.

1.1. Degreaser

As a fat dissolving compound (= fat solvent), whose task is to solubilize or mobilize fats from the hair, i. the transport e.g. in the

To allow water or in the oil phase of the emulsion or in the surfactant micelles, preferably a polar, protic solvent is used.

The fat solvent used, whose M number is in the range 1-18, is characterized by its good fat dissolving effect. According to the work of Godfrey, the M-number characterization of solvents is based on their affinity for "oil-like substances" (NB Godfrey, ChemTech, June 1972, p. 359). A measure of the reciprocal interaction of the substance to be dissolved and the solvent or the solvent mixture is the so-called M number, which is described in the work "Solvent Selection via Miscibility Number" by Norman Bell Godfrey in Chemical Technology (ChemTech), The miscibility number or M number is used to rapidly estimate the miscibility of organic liquids Godfrey chose a series of 31 standard solvents and ranked them according to their lipophilicity and their affinity for oil, respectively The atomic numbers from 1 to 31 are referred to as miscibility numbers or M numbers, and Godfrey introduced the concept of so-called "solvent selection" with this miscibility number and gave miscibility numbers for 400 organic liquids to which he assigned each one of the 31 M numbers. With the help of this M-number, it is possible to indicate the lipophilicity of a solvent, and thus to predict the affinity for oily substances. The higher the M number, the stronger the lipophilic character of the organic liquid, ie the affinity for oily substances, pronounced.

With regard to the miscibility of the solvents characterized by the M numbers, the following applies:

All solvent pairs whose respective M numbers differ by less than 15 from each other are miscible at 25 ° C in all proportions.

A difference of 16 units in terms of the M number shows that the two liquids have a critical solution temperature between 25 and 75 ⁰ C.

If the difference between the M numbers is more than 17 units, the two liquids are not miscible with each other, or their segregation temperature is above 75 ^° C.

The interactions between the molecules of the two liquids can sometimes alter the expected extent of miscibility. For example, ethers or tertiary amines show unexpected miscibility with hydroxyl groups. holding solvents due to the hydrogen bonds. Unusually strong hydrogen bonds are also responsible for the miscibility of long chain alcohols or carboxylic acids with standard low M solvents. In contrast, they show an abnormal immiscibility with low M-number aprotic solvents.

Occasionally, the above relation holds that liquids whose M numbers differ by less than 15 from each other are miscible with each other in any proportion, not, i. their M-number range is less than 30 and 31, respectively. Some solvents are found to be immiscible with solvents at both ends of the lipophilic scale. These solvents receive a double M number. The lower M number, which is always below 16, is used to predict the extent of miscibility of the solvent in question with more lipophilic solvents. The higher M number, on the other hand, concerns the opposite end of the scale and is used to predict miscibility of the solvent in question with less lipophilic solvents. A large difference between these two numbers indicates a limited miscibility range. For example, some fluorinated hydrocarbons are immiscible with all standard solvents and have M numbers of 0.32. Two liquids with double M numbers are usually miscible with each other.

A liquid is characterized in the M-number system by being tested for miscibility with a number of standard solvents. A correction term of 15 is then either added to or subtracted from the miscibility exclusion value, resulting in an M-number range for miscibility of less than 30 and 31, respectively. For example, adiponitrile has twice the M numbers 8 and 19. At 25 ^° C., adiponitrile is completely miscible with solvents whose M number is between 23 (ie 8 + 15) and 4 (ie 19-15).

In addition, the fat-dissolving compound is preferably characterized by a partial solubility in water, more preferably by a good solubility in water, ie the fat-dissolving compound is at least 5 wt .-%, preferably at least at least 25% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight, even more preferably at least 75% by weight, and more preferably at least 95% by weight, and most preferably 100% by weight in Water soluble or miscible with water.

Generally, fat solvents in the context of this invention are polar, protic, water-soluble, liquid compounds. They represent together with the water essentially the water phase of the "oil in water emulsion".

Typical representatives are alcohols having 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 carbon atoms, in particular monoalcohols and dialcohols, such as, for example, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, sec-butanol, tert-butanol, n Pentanol, iso-pentanol, neo-pentanol, tert-pentanol, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol, as well as low molecular weight, water-soluble ethylene oxide homopolymers (for example Pluriol E with a molecular weight of 102 to 2,000 from BASF) and propylene oxide homo Polymers (for example Pluriol P having a molecular weight of 134 to 600 from BASF) and derivatives thereof, low molecular weight, random and water-soluble ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers and derivatives thereof, low molecular weight, water-soluble ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block copolymers ( for example, pyrolonic PE having a molecular weight of 1,000 to 4,000 and Pluronic RPE having a molecular weight of 2,000 to 4,000) and their derivatives, and ether alcohols such as Et hoxyethanol (ethoxy glycol), propoxyethanol (propoxy glycol), butoxyethanol (butoxy glycol), butyl acetate and glycerol triacetate. Pluronic, in particular Pluronic PE 4300 (BASF), and butoxyglycol have proven to be very suitable.

The molecular weights of the fat solvents are preferably in the range of 80 to 5,000, for example in the range of 100 to 700 or of 100 to 2,000 or of 1,000 to 4,000 or of 2,000 to 4,000.

Both a fat solvent alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used. The amount of fat-solvent used is preferably in the range from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition.

1.2. Fat Sorbing Compounds The fats mobilized by the fat solvents are preferably immobilized in the oil phase by the optional fat-sorbing compounds of the "degreasing system", thereby deprived of the water phase, whereby further fat can be dissolved in the aqueous phase. Generally, fat-sorbing compounds in the context of this invention are substantially water-insoluble, fat-like compounds, i. Compounds whose solubility in water is less than 1% by weight. The fat-sorbing compounds are stabilized in particular by the use of emulsifiers as the oil phase in the water phase; So they essentially represent the oil phase of the "oil in water" emulsion.

As fat-sorbing - components can - in addition to mineral oils - for example

Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkyl and aryl ethoxylates and fatty amides having in each case 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 carbon atoms. These compounds have the task of immobilizing the fat already dissolved in the aqueous phase by the fat solvents in the oil phase of an "oil-in-water" emulsion so that new fat can be dissolved by the fat solvents. Further, they may also thicken the depilation mass, if necessary.

Typical representatives of a fat-sorbing compound are cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and their esterification derivatives such as e.g. Octyl and cetyl palmitates and triglycerides, as well as ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty alcohols each having 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, or 24 carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol; the number of ethylene oxide or Propylene oxide units in the ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols is 1 to 10, preferably 1-5.

In addition to the compounds already mentioned, organosilicon compounds such as phenyldimethicones, cetyldimethicones or cyclomethicones are also very well suited. Preferably used products are cetyl and cetearyl alcohol. Both a fat sorbent alone and a combination of two, three or more of them can be used.

The fat-sorbing compounds are preferably used in concentrations of 2 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total cosmetic composition.

1.3. As Dispersatoren.bzw. For example, emulsifiers can be used with surfactants with HLB values of 7 to 18 (hydrophilic-lipophilic

Balance, see H. Sunday, textbook of colloid science, VEB German publishing house of the sciences Berlin 1977).

Particularly suitable representatives are lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, Span 20 (sorbitan lactate), Tween 20 (ethoxylated sorbitan laurate), Brij 58 (polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether), Renex 720 (ethoxylated C ₁₃ - C ₁₅ - alcohol) and laureth- 23rd Especially suitable is a combination consisting of ^{_2/3 of} laureth sulfate and V ₃ lauryl, each based on the weight.

Both a surfactant alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used.

The surface-active substances are preferably used in a concentration of 2-10% by weight, preferably 4-6% by weight, based on the total cosmetic composition.

1.4. Thickener for the aqueous phase

In addition, thickening agents other than the grease-sorbing compounds can be used; Thus, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition can be increased and their handling can be facilitated. Suitable thickeners of the aqueous phase are, for example: sodium alginate, in particular alginate EHV (CHT-Tübingen), polyacrylates, for example Dynasorb from Stockhausen, and also cellulose derivatives, for example Methocel 311 from Dow Chemical Company or Bermocoll E 230-FQ from Akzo Nobel and associative thickeners, such as polyurethanes, which are reacted with alkyl-aryl

Polyglycol ethers are combined, in particular Borchi Gel L 75 N from Borchers GmbH.

It can be used both a Verdicjαingsmittel alone and a combination of two, three or more of them. The thickeners are in one

Concentration of 20-80 g / kg, in particular from 30 to 40 g / kg, in each case based on the total mass used.

2. Solvolysis system 2.1. Solvent-soluble metal complexes of mercapto compounds

The solvolysis of the hair, as a second step, is accomplished primarily by the tertiary and secondary structure-splitting Depilierungsingredienzien ("Solvolysis system"). One aspect of this invention relates to the use of mercapto compounds, such as mono- or dibasic mercapto compounds.

As dibasic mercapto compounds in particular salts or metal complexes of thioglycolic acid, i. the dianion of thioglycolic acid, especially the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, tin and zinc salts.

The mercapto compound or its metal salt or metal complex is preferably characterized by an at least partial solubility in the under 1.1. listed fatty solvents, ie, the mercapto compound or its metal salt or metal complex is more than 90 wt .-%, preferably at most 50 wt .-%, more preferably at most 25 wt .-%, even more preferably to not more than 10% by weight, and more preferably not more than 5% by weight, and very particularly preferably to at most 1% by weight in points 1.1. listed fat soluble or miscible with these.

As an equivalent alternative to thioglycolic acid and its salts, monobasic mercapto compounds, such as e.g. Mercaptoethanol or mercaptoglycerol or salts thereof. Preferred salts of mercaptoethanol or mercaptoglycerol are the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, tin and zinc salts. These also have a comparable or better solubility in the under 1.1. listed polar, protic Fettlösmit- teln on how the salts of thioglycolic acid.

Both a mercapto compound alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used; In particular, all salts of thioglycolic acid with mercaptoethanol and / or mercaptoglycerol can be used in combination.

In addition to the abovementioned sodium, potassium or calcium thioglycolates according to the invention, cystine-cleaving ingredients may be at least partly soluble in alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol, metal-thioglycolic acid complexes of the A and B cations, such as aluminum or zinc thioglycolic acid Salts (see: A. Ackermann, W. Jugelt, HH Moebius, HD Suschke, G. Werner, electrolyte equilibrium and electrochemistry, Verlag Chemie Weinheim, 1974, pages 221-223).

As stated above, in order for the cleavage reagents to be able to solvolyse the hair, it is first necessary to partially remove the protective layer of fat surrounding the hair. This removal is usually done by the above-mentioned degreasing system. The at least partial removal of the protective layer of fat surrounding the hair can be achieved, for example, by micellar and / or phase transfer catalysis, since it can act through the fat layer of the hair. The inventors have found in an unexpected manner that in particular Aluminiumbzw. Zinc complexes of thioglycolic acid accelerate the cleavage of cystine sulfur bridges. While the sodium and potassium salts of thioglycolic acid are primarily water-soluble but not soluble in the preferred solvents of this invention, the aluminum and zinc complexes of thioglycollic acid preferably used in this invention are characterized by a marked solubility in the solvents, eg in the alcohols, which can also be used as fat solvents (see point 1.1.).

The thioglycolic acid complexes of aluminum and zinc differ from the sodium, potassium and calcium salts in that the latter are almost completely dissociated, i. exist as ions and therefore in the 1.1. listed grease solvents are poorly or not at all soluble. In contrast, the aluminum or zinc compounds of thioglycolic acid are only partially present as ions, but are partially undissociated complexes which have a solubility in the preferred fat solvents for the purposes of this invention (item 1.1.), For example, ethanol.

This already initiates a cleavage of the cystine sulfur bridges of the hair, while the degreasing process is still ongoing. In this way, a particularly fast Haarentfemung is made possible by the degreasing process and the solvolysis process at least partially run simultaneously. This observation also applies to the monobasic mercapto compounds mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol or their salts. Thus Depilierungszeiten of 3 minutes are possible.

Preferably used thioglycolic acid complexes include aluminum and titanium as examples of the A cation and zinc and tin for the B cation. The complexes of thioglycolic acid are preferably used in a concentration of from 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M, particularly preferably about 0.3 M, based on the total cosmetic composition ,

Optionally, additional alkali salts of thioglycolic acid can be used. As further compounds for the cleavage of cystine disulfide bridges, for example, mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol come into consideration, wherein the concentrations used also in the range of 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M, particularly preferably about 0.3 M, based on the total cosmetic

Composition. The mercaptoethanol capable of forming salts or ions has a pKa value of 9.37, so that at about pH 11, about 98% of the mercaptoethanol used is present in its deprotonated form. This significantly reduces its dermal toxicity compared to the protonated form.

Preferred mercapto compounds are thioglycolic acid, or salts and complexes thereof, mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol or salts thereof. These are preferably used in concentrations of 0.2-0.8 mol / l, preferably 0.2-0.4 mol / l, in each case based on the entire cosmetic composition.

2.2 amine compounds

An essential aspect of the present invention relates to the use of amine compounds as catalysts in the context of the solvolysis system for depilation. Such amines catalyze the solvolysis of hair and in particular the cleavage of H-bonds and subordinate to peptides. This term includes according to this invention primary, secondary and tertiary amine compounds, as well as quaternary ammonium compounds. In this case, both individual amine compounds and mixtures of two or more of these primary, secondary and / or tertiary amines or the quaternary ammonium compounds can be used; likewise, two or more of said functionalities may be present in a connection; thus, one, two, three or more, optionally different amine functions may be present in a compound. It is likewise possible to use polymeric amine compounds which are synthesized from the corresponding monomeric compounds. 2.2.1 Primary amines

For the purposes of this invention, primary amines are understood as meaning compounds of the formula H ₂ NR ¹ , where R ^{1 is} an alkyl radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 carbon atoms, preferably with 2 or 3 carbon atoms. The alkyl radical can be linear or branched, cyclic and / or open-chain, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated; preferred examples of the radical R ¹ are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, 3-methylpent-1-yl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl l-yl, tert-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, and n-eicosanyl.

The alkyl radical R ¹ may be substituted by one, two or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur. In particular, the radical R ¹ , which in this case is preferably an aliphatic, linear, saturated alkyl radical having up to 12 carbon atoms, may be substituted by 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 hydroxyl groups. Examples include hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxyprop-1-yl, 3-hydroxyprop-1-yl, 2,3-dihydroxyprop-1-yl. The preferred amine compounds are therefore: monoethanolamine (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -OH), ethylenediamine (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH ₂ ), 1,3-diaminopropane (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH ₂ ), 1, 4-diaminobutane (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH ₂ ), 3-aminopropan-1-ol ((H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -OH), 1-aminopropan-2-ol ((H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₃ ), alaninol (HO-CH ₂ CH (NH ₂ ) CH ₃ ), 1-aminoglycerol (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -OH), 2-aminoglycerol (HO-CH ₂ CH (NH ₂ ) CH ₂ -OH), 1-hydroxy-2,3-diaminopropane (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH (NH ₂ ) CH ₂ -OH), 2-hydroxy-1,3-diaminopropane (H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -NH ₂ ), 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol (HO-CH ₂ C (NH ₂ ) (C ₂ H ₅ ) CH ₂ -OH) 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (CH ₃ C (NH ₂ ) (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -OH) Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane ((HO-CH ₂ ) ₃ C-NH ₂ ), 2-amino-imidazole and 4-amino-imidazole.

Generally preferred primary amines are the so-called beta-amino alcohols, which each have an amino or hydroxyl function in the 1,2-position. Preferred examples are the amino alcohols derived from the amino acids, eg alaninol, serinol, valinol, phenylalaninol, phenylglycinol, cyclohexylglycinol, cyclohexylalaninol etc. Also preferred amines are those which can be prepared by ethoxylation or propoxylation of amine compounds and OH terminal Groups point. Examples are H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ -OH, H ₂ N- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) ₃ -H, H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -O- CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -OH, H ₂ N- (CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -O) ₃ -H or else H ₂ N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH ₂ .

In addition, the radical R ^{1 may be} a cyclic group, for example a cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl or cyclooctyl group. Amino and optionally hydroxyl groups may be substituted on this group. Examples of these are: cyclopentylamine, cyclohexylamine, cycloheptylamine, cyclooctylamine, and also 2-amino-cyclohexan-1-ol, 3-amino-cyclohexan-1-ol, 4-amino-cyclohexan-1-ol, 1,4 -Diaminocyclo- hexane.

In addition, the radical R ^{1 may be} aromatic, in particular, phenyl, 2-, 3-, or 4-toluyl, 2-, 3-, or 4-pyridinyl. Also suitable are combinations of (hetero) aromatic and (hetero) aliphatic radicals, for example alkyloxyphenyl radicals, for example para-nonyloxyphenyl.

Both a primary amine alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used. The primary amines are preferably used in a concentration range from 2 to 30 g / kg, in particular from 10 to 15 g / kg, based on the total depilation mass.

2.2.2. Secondary amines

Instead of or in addition to the primary amines and secondary amines can be used. The general formula for secondary amines is R ² -NH-R ³ , where the radicals R ² and R ³ independently of one another have the same meaning as R ¹ above in the case of the primary amines.

As with the primary amines, the radicals R ² and R ³ may be substituted with one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur. In particular, the radicals R ² and R ³ , which in this case are preferably in each case independently of one another an aliphatic, linear, saturated alkyl radical having up to 12 carbon atoms, may be substituted by 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 hydroxyl groups. Examples include Hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxyprop-1-yl, 3-hydroxyprop-1-yl, 2,3-dihydroxyprop-1-yl The preferred amine compounds are therefore: diethanolamine (HN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -OH) ₂ ), diisopropanolamine (HN- (CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -OH) ₂ ), dipropanolamine (HN- (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -OH) ₂ ), piperazine (HN (CH ₂ CH ₂ ) ₂ NH), piperidine cyclobutane (CH ₂ ) ₅ NH, as well as tricine ((HIGH ₂ ) ₃ C-NH-CH ₂ COOH).

In addition, compounds are contemplated in which the or the nitrogen atom (s) are incorporated into a ring of carbon atoms. In particular, 5-, 6-, 7- or 8-membered rings come into consideration. The cyclic compounds may be both hetero-aliphatic and heteroaromatic in nature. Examples include pyrrolidine, piperidine, morpholine, and pyrazole.

Both a secondary amine alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used. The secondary amines are preferably used in a concentration range of from 5 to 50 g / kg, in particular from 10 to 20 g / kg, based on the total depilation mass.

2.2.3. Tertiary amines

Instead of the primary and / or secondary amines or in addition to these, at least one tertiary amine can also be used.

The general formula for tertiary amines is NR ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , wherein R ⁴ , R ⁵ , and R ⁶ independently of one another have the same meaning as the radicals R ² and R ³ for secondary amines. In particular, two of the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ , and R ⁶ can form a ring with one another.

In general, tertiary amines in the context of this invention are preferably cyclic amines having at least one, preferably two, tertiary amine functions and at least one ring, the amines not hydrolyzing under depilation conditions, ie at a pH of less than or equal to 11.5 and a temperature of less than or equal to 37 ⁰ C. In particular, amines having the structure NR ⁷ R ⁸ R ⁹ N are preferred, wherein R ⁷ , R ⁸ , and R ^{9 are} each independently straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, divalent hydrocarbon groups having 2, 3, 4 , 5, 6 or 7 carbon atoms, wherein in each case two of these groups can together form a ring. The substituents may include oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms.

The substances 1,4-diazabicyclo [2.2.2] octane (DABCO), l, 8-diazabicyclo [5.4.0] undec-7-ene (DBU), l, 4-diazabicyclo have proven to be very efficient. 4.3.0] non-5-ene and triethanolamine N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₃ , triisopropanolamine (N (CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) OH) ₃ ),

Tripropanolamine (N (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₃ ), N-methylmorpholine, and triethylenediamine N (CH ₂ CH ₂ ) ₃ N proved. In addition, pyridine, pyridazine, pyrimidine, and pyrazine come into consideration.

Both a tertiary amine alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used. The tertiary amines are preferably used in a concentration range of 2 to 20 g / kg, in particular from 4 to 8 g / kg, based on the total depilation.

2.2.4. Quaternary ammonium compounds

Instead of the primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary amines or in addition to these, it is also possible to use at least one quaternary ammonium compound. Among the quaternary ammonium compounds in the context of the invention are compounds of the formula NR ¹⁰ R ¹ * R ¹² R ¹³⁺ X ^" understood, wherein the radicals R ¹⁰ , R ^u , R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently have the same meaning as the rest R ^{1 of} the primary amines The preferred negative-charged counterions X ^'of the quaternary ammonium compounds are preferably fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, hydrogensulfate or hydroxide, preferably chloride and sulfate.

Such tetra-substituted ammonium compounds may have substituents with both aliphatic and aromatic structures. In addition, can the quaternary nitrogen itself may be part of an aromatic ring system, for example a pyridine or pyridinium ring.

The aliphatic substituents are, for example, hydrocarbon chains of C ₁ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁ -Cj _4, and OH-terminated ethylene oxide and propylene oxide radicals. The degree of ethoxylation or propoxylation ranges between 1 and 30, based on the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units in the remainder. Typical representatives are tetrabutylammonium chloride, methyltrioctylammonium chloride, fatty amines (C ₄ -C ₂₄ ) which are quaternized with dimethyl sulfate, quaternized fatty acids. amines of the general structure (C ₄ -C ₂₄ ) NMe ₃ ⁺ , such as, for example, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-dodecyl-ammonium chloride, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-tetradecyl-ammonium chloride (N-cetyl- N, N, N-trimethylammonium chloride), N, N, N-trimethyl-N-hexadecylammonium chloride, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-octadecylammonium chloride, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-eicosanyl-ammonium chloride , N, N, N-trimethyl-N-docosanyl-ammonium chloride, N, N, N-trimethyl-N-tetracosanyl-ammonium chloride; DERIPHAT® 160 C (sodium N-lauryl-beta-iminodipropionate), Deriphat 151 C (N-coco-beta-aminopropionic acid from carechemicals), DERIPHAT® 154L (disodium tallow-iminodipropionate from carechemicals), GAF-Quat HS- 100 (a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride), and cocobis (2-hydroxyethyl) methylammonium chloride.

In addition to the abovementioned substituents, it is also possible to use aromatics-containing substituents, such as, for example, N- [3- (paranonylphenoxy) -2-hydroxypropyl] N, N, N-trimethylammonium chloride.

Another possibility is the use of polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds wherein the quaternary groups are covalently bonded to a backbone of the polymer. Examples of these are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-28 from GAF) or quaternized copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (Polyquaternium-11). Quaternary ammonium salts with aromatic or heterocyclic structures preferably have phenyl or pyridinium structures. The aliphatic substituent is generally a hydrocarbon chain of C 1 -C ₂₄ , preferably C 1 -C ₄ , in particular a substituent of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 1, 2, 4, 16, 18, 20, 22 or 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of these are: trimethylphenylammonium chloride or bromide, methylpyridinium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride and 1-dodecylpyridinium bromide.

Both a quaternary ammonium compound alone and a combination of two, three or more of them may be used; In particular, surfactant-like and polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds can be used in combination. Likewise, a combination of one or more primary, secondary and tertiary amine (s) and one or more quaternary ammonium compounds may be used.

The amounts used of the micellar or phase transfer catalysts are dependent on their constitution and micelle formation concentration (CMC) and are preferably in the range of 0.001-0.2 mol / l, preferably in the range of 0.01-0.1 mol / l, in each case based on the entire cosmetic Composition.

If micellar and / or phase transfer catalysts are used, mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerine are preferably suitable as reactants for the solvolysis of the hair.

2.2.4.1. Micellar or phase transfer catalysis

One aspect of this invention thus relates to the optional use of micellar or phase transfer catalysts, preferably using quaternary ammonium compounds. Basically, in the quaternary ammonium compounds between low molecular weight compounds, such as tetrabutyl ammonium chloride, and high molecular weight, ie polymeric compounds such as Polyquaternium 28, a polymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride to distinguish. While the low molecular weight quaternary ammonium compounds are the classical phase transfer catalysts and, because of their low propensity for mutual association, are less prone to micellar formation, the surfactant and polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds have a pronounced tendency to form micelles in the water phase. On the other hand, the tendency of the high molecular weight quaternary ammonium compounds to exceed the phase boundary between the aqueous and organic phases as classical phase transfer catalysts tends to be less pronounced than for the corresponding low molecular weight compounds. In addition, the formation of the micelles depends on the concentration of the quaternary ammonium compound used. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are those having a surfactant-like character. In micellar catalysis, the so-called "critical micelle concentration (CMC)" of the quaternary ammonium salt must be exceeded in each case, so to what extent does the micelle formation depend on the constitution and concentration of the quaternary ammonium compound (s) employed therefore, the extent to which phase transfer catalysis and / or micellar catalysis occur, and thus, phase transfer catalysis or micellar catalysis may dominate, depending on the compound used. however, they are also partially soluble in polar protic and aprotic solvents, such as, for example, ethanol or dioxane Both types of catalysis are explained in more detail below.

Although a logical separation between micellar and phase transfer catalysis is possible due to kinetic measurements, it is not necessary for the feasibility of the present invention. Rather, both types of catalysis in the present system can run side by side.

2.2.4.1.1. Mizellarkatalyse

Micellar catalysis often follows the principle of simple enzyme models. This can be proven by some similarities:

The size of micelles and globular proteins is similar. Both micelles and proteins can solubilize suitable molecules.

There are many chemical reactions in micellar solutions whose kinetics are similar to those of enzyme-catalyzed reactions.

The valid general reaction model is shown in Figure 1:

K

Mizf MizS

P

Θ ©

Fig. 1 Scheme of a simple micellar catalysis

In the case of micellar catalysis, the term substrate refers to the reactive centers of the hair, ie the SS cystine bridges, the hydrogen bond bonds, and the peptide bonds; the reactants include mercapto compounds and the alkali. The reactants which cause the solvolysis of the hair (abbreviated to S), for example the negatively charged hydroxide ion, thioglycolate anion, mercaptoglycerol or mercaptoethanol, associate in a rapid equilibrium step with a micelle (Mizf) consisting of the preferably surfactant-like and / or or high molecular weight positively charged quaternary ammonium salt, to the micelle complex (MizS). Preferably, at least a residue of the quaternary ammonium salt has 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably, exactly one residue of the quaternary ammonium salt has 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 or 24 carbon atoms; the other three radicals consist for example of methyl groups. The reactivities of S in the free and associative forms are defined by the rate constants k _w and k _m j _z , respectively. Due to the micelle formation, the concentration of mercapto compounds on the surface of the micelle may be much higher than it would normally be, ie if the mercapto compounds were present in aqueous solution. Due to the high concentration of the mercapto compounds S (OH ^" , RS ^" ) on the micelle surface, the sorption of the micelles on the hair results in higher reaction rates with respect to hair solvolysis compared to a solvolysis system without micelles. This in turn can shorten the depilation time and avoid skin irritation; likewise, the concentration of the mercapto compound can be lowered and thus the odor nuisance can be reduced.

The loading of the micelle surface with the reactants for solvolysis (e.g., with mercapto compounds) occurs in a rapid, pre-equilibrium, reaction step, wherein the reaction, i. the cleavage of the hydrogen bonds and the S S-cystine backbone proceeds in the majority of zeros order.

2.2.4.1.2. Phase Transfer Catalysis

The principle of phase transfer catalysis is to convert ionic substances from the water phase into the organic medium (in this case into the fatty phase). For this purpose, are very suitable quaternary compounds [Q ^Θ X ^~], their salts or ion pairs of both a good lipid solubility as well as have a good water solubility. In the fat phase, there is no need for solvation of the salt or ion pair. The general reaction principle is shown in Figure 2; However, it does not take into account further proteolytic equilibrium reactions upstream and downstream of the schematic reaction.

aqueous phase Q ⁺ X ^" + S ^" - j ~ Q ^* S ~] + X ^' phase boundary 4 | | l organic phase [Q ⁺ XJ + BS> [VsJ + BX

Fig. 2 General reaction scheme of the phase transfer catalysis

[Q ^Θ X ^~ ] corresponds to the preferably used quaternary, positively charged compound, preferably a quaternary ammonium salt, for example tetrabutylammonium chloride, where Q ^{+ of} the quaternary compound, in this example the tetrabutylammonium, and X ^' the counterion, in this Example, the chloride corresponds to [S ^" ] corresponds to a depilatory acting component or the conjugated anion (eg OH ^" , RS ^" , deprotonated mercaptoethanol); and [Q ^Θ S ^" ] corresponds to the forming reaction product of the quaternary ammonium salt and the anionic reactant for solvolysis extracted from the fatty phase of the hair The extracted reaction product exhibits the depilatory action (reaction product BS) with recovery of the quaternary salt [Q ^Θ X ^" ] (ion pair) according to Figure 2. BX stands for the substrate, ie in general hydrogen bonds and SS-cystine bonds; this reacts with the QS to form BS, which represents cleaved hydrogen bonds, peptide bonds, and SS cysteine bridges, with recovery of the original quaternary ammonium salt [Q ^Θ X ^" ].

The reductive mercapto compounds to be used in the course of micellar or phase transfer catalysis are characterized in that they are capable of forming salts or ion pairs with the micellar or phase transfer catalysts used. Substances which are suitable for this purpose are, in addition to thioglycolic acid and its salts, mercaptoethanol and mercaptogycerin. 2.3. Protection of the skin by low pH: buffer system

By using the primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amines as solvolysis catalysts it is possible to carry out the depilation at pH values of 9-11.5, preferably at pH 10 -11, instead of the usual pH of 13 and higher , As a result, the removal of the hair in a very short time can be performed much gentler on the skin; despite the reduced pH compared to conventional Depilierungsmassen is achieved by the catalysts sufficient speed for the solvolyse of hair or hair fibrillation.

The adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic composition is carried out, for example, by the use of buffering systems, e.g. Potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate for a pH range of 9.5 to 11.0, whose maximum buffer is about 10.5, and silica / sodium hydroxide solution (water glass) for a pH range of 11-12, the maximum buffer at about 11 lies. The amount of use of the corresponding acid-base pairs is preferably to be selected such that a buffer capacity of 0.02-0.06 mol / l, preferably 0.04-0.05 mol / l, prevails in the cosmetic composition of this invention.

By use of primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amines, such as DABCO, DBU, tetrabutylammonium hydroxide and Polyquaternium-28, as well as by use at pH 10 to 11.5, preferably at about 10.5-11, are moving the Depilierungszeiten depending on hair thickness and degree of fat of the hair between 3 and 5 minutes, usually between 3 and 4 minutes, preferably between 3 and 3.5 minutes. In this composition, the pH is about 2 units below the value of comparable known depilation masses; Thus, the alkali concentration is lower by a factor of 100.

In addition, by using the catalyst and Solvolysesysems invention, the amount of mercapto compound to be used, for example thioglycolic acid and mercaptoethanol and mercaptoglycerol, or from their salts or derivatives can be reduced, so that by compared to conventional Depilierungsmitteln low concentration of mercapto compound a significant reduction in odor can be achieved.

Another advantage of the invention is that the concentration of mercapto-glycerol can be as low as about 0.4 mol / kg. Thus, the concentration of the mercapto compound is about 20% below the value of comparable depilation compositions.

2.4. Other Components of the Solvolysis System Further, the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one reducing endiol or endiolate or its derivatives. Examples of such endiols or endiols are ascorbic acid, keto sugars such as fructose, as well as acetoin and adepoin. Strong reductive endiolates, also called reductones, are notable for keto sugars (e.g., fructose), acetoin, and adepoin. The endiol compounds may be e.g. in a concentration of 0.2 M to 0.5 M, preferably 0.2 M to 0.3 M are used.

Another and very efficient way to increase the cystine cleavage rate is through the use of dithiothreitol, since the reaction equilibrium of the disulfide cleavage is shifted in favor of the dithiothreitol product. Dithiothreitol can be used in a concentration of from 0.2 M to 0.8 M, preferably from 0.2 M to 0.4 M, based on the total cosmetic composition.

In general, extracts of chamomile and / or arnica can be added as additives to the depilatory composition in order to reduce skin irritation. Furthermore, to reduce the odor and to protect against bacterial attack fragrances such. As peppermint, eucalyptus, nerol, farnesol, rose oil, etc. and bactericides such as eucalyptus, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and their esters, etc. are added. In addition, ureas and its derivatives can be added. 3. Examples and experimental part

The information on the development of the depilation formulation according to the invention was obtained from kinetic data of the hair solvolysis as well as from the hair breakage data. The specimens used were methanol-cleaned, approximately 300 mm long, female hair.

To measure the solvolysis kinetics, the hair was dipped into the appropriate depilation bath, loaded with a preload weight of 300-350 mN, and the preload force, which decreased as a result of hair fragmentation, was measured in chronological order. To record the break time, the hair was loaded with a constant biasing force of 295 mN and dipped to breakage in the appropriate Depilierungsflotte. The reaction scheme (Fig. 1) describes a subsequent reaction pseudo first order, with a in the first reaction stage, ie between A and B with the rate constants ki and k_i, occurring equilibrium step, which is mainly attributed to the Disulfidspaltung. The second, irreversible reaction step from B to C with the rate constant k ₂ corresponds to the diffusion-controlled hydrogen-bond and also possible peptide cleavage. k _w k ₂

B * C k

Fig.1 Reaction scheme of hair solvolysis (cystine and hydrogen bonding splitting reaction stages dissolving the secondary and tertiary structures of the hair)

The reaction constants of the first and second reaction steps (Figure 1) and the hair breakage time are determined and normalized as target variables for describing the modes of action of the depilatory ingredients. The best values (highest reaction constant and lowest break time) correspond to one in the normalized scale of Figure 2 and the worst values to zero. By combining the normalized target function values of the three target variables into unimodal function values Z ₁ and the subsequent semiempirical modeling, a function describing the modes of action of the depilation ingredients is obtained. Another essential information can be seen in Figure 2. It shows the isolines of the standardized target variable (depilation rate) as a function of the pH value and the methanol concentration at a constant thioglycolic acid and DABCO concentration (FIG. 2).

w [-] "[-]" l [mol / 1] "

xr = 0 3 xt _j = Ö 025

zl

Fig. 2. Isolines of the normalized depilation rate as a function of the pH and the methanol concentration: abscissa: pH;

Ordinate: methanol concentration in mol / 1;

Constant values: 0.3 M potassium thioglycolate and tertiary amine concentration 0.025 M DABCO.

The most favorable for depilation reaction conditions are shown in Figure 2 at about pH 10 and 3 mol / 1 methanol.

Further important information can be found in Figure 3. It shows the isolines of the normalized target variable as a function of the pH and the DABCO concentration with the best possible reaction conditions at pH 10 - 10.5 and 0.02 - 0.03 mol / 1 DABCO. The concentration of potassium thioglycolate is constantly 0.3 mol / l and the methanol concentration constant 2 mol / 1. It can be seen that a concentration of DABCO of 0.025 mol / l and a pH of about 10.2 to optimal Depilation speed leads. Nevertheless, the depilation is carried out at a pH of about 10.5, which also corresponds to the maximum buffer capacity of the system potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate, in order to always ensure the proper functioning.

w [-] "H" [mol / 1] "

xr = Q .: xr = 2

zl

Fig. 3 Isolines of the normalized depilation rate as a function of the pH value and the DABCO concentration abscissa: pH value

Ordinate: Concentration of DABCO in mol / 1 Constant values: 0.3 M potassium thioglycolate and 2 M methanol

To measure the solvolysis kinetics, the hair was dipped into the appropriate depilation bath, loaded with a pretensioning weight of 300-350 mN, and the subsequent decreasing prestressing force as a result of the hair fragmentation was measured in chronological order. Hair breakage was recorded at a constant bias force of 295 mN and variable concentrations of depilatory ingredients. 4. Glove as peeling system

The depilatory composition according to the invention can be used in the case of a conventional per se formulation, e.g. be used as a cream, spray, gel, gel cream or foam etc. According to the invention, however, a "glove" whose one side is coated with the depilation mass and whose back surface is used as an exfoliating glove for removing the depilation mass and the hair, preferably serves according to the invention for application of the depilation mass. The production of such a glove is extremely cost-effective, since the gloves can be made up of a multi-layered package. The uppermost layer of the three-ply package comprises, for example, a non-woven fabric coated with the depilation mass or a

Vließverbundwerkstoff, the middle layer includes, for example, a polyethylene film as a contamination barrier and the last layer corresponds for example to the peeling layer, the example u.a. is made of a rough fabric, knitted fabric, non-woven or a composite of the materials mentioned. For glove packaging, e.g. The coated, three-ply, up to 2500 mm wide web is cut into 150 mm wide single webs and sewn or welded at the edges. Subsequently, the single sheets are cut into 150 mm long individual pieces and sewn or welded on one side only, so that a glove is produced, one side of which carries the depilation mass and the other can be used for cleaning (peeling). In other cases, it makes sense to perform the suturing or welding of the three-layer application system before the coating.

A second possibility is the use of an adhesive-coated plastic film, in the coating composition of which the aforementioned Depilierungschemi- are incorporated. Suitable adhesives include, for example, highly concentrated glucoses, a low molecular weight polyvinyl acetate or a low molecular weight, partially crosslinked hydroxy-polyester. The coated side of the film is covered with a second film immediately after the coating process and arrives as a web in the assembly. The hair removal with the coated adhesive film is carried out by removing the protective film and pressing the coated side of the film onto the corresponding body part to be depilated. After a contact time of 3 - 8 minutes, the film is peeled off and with it the dissolving Hair. This type of hair removal is a combination of depilation and epilation.

Both mentioned forms of application are characterized by their simple and cost-effective production and are also environmentally friendly to dispose of.

Example 1 depilation formulation and application system

The degreasing agents listed in the table below are heated to the melt and mixed and then emulsified in half of the available water. The chemicals listed in the solvolysis system are dissolved in a water mask, in order to then emulsify the intermittently cooled "degreasing emulsion" in the "solvolysis solution". After emulsification, the remaining water is added to a volume of one liter.

Now the Depilierungsformulierung is applied by means of a coating process on the nonwoven side (web thickness 1.5 mm) of a three-layer web (fleece / polyethylene film / Peelinggewirk), which is then coated with a protective film. The coating coverage is 500 g / m ² . With this coating coating, the area of a leg can be depilated per "glove".

Example 1: Formulation of the Depilierungsmasse

The exfoliating knit, used as a cleaning layer for the glove, is made from coarse polyethylene fibers to remove the highly fragmented hair, including the depilation mass. The depilatory formulation prepared in this way is distinguished by its low odor nuisance, the low pH of 11 and the short depilation time of 4 minutes. Due to the low pH, no skin irritation was observed even if a depilation post-treatment was omitted.

Example 2 Depilation Formulation and Application

The following formulation corresponds to a Depilierungscreme that is transferred in the foam process on the skin. After three minutes of exposure, the cream can be washed off with a wet peeling tissue.

The cream is prepared by mixing the components of the Entfetrungssystems (imbentin, glycerol, Pluriol and Pluronic) and heated to about 50 ⁰ C. The degreasing composite is then emulsified in the already prepared aqueous solvolysis system. After completion of the emulsion is the premixed Thickening system stirred for about 15 minutes. Finally, the pH is adjusted to pH 10.5.

Example 2: Formulation of the Depilierungsmasse

The depilation experiments showed that with the stated formulation, the pH of which is 10.5 and has a mercaptoethanol concentration of 0.4 mol / l, depilation times of three minutes can be achieved, without the usual risk potential due to a very high high alkali concentration, which usually leads to pH values of 13. Example 3: Formulation and application instructions for depilatory cream on thickener basis

GAFQuat HS 100: (a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; supplier: ISP Switzerland, Hansruedi Mottl) Inocot K-4320 (potash waterglass): (supplier: van Baerle AG; CH-4142 Münchenstein) Specification: potassium silicate having a molar ratio K ₂ O: SiO ₂ = 1:> 1.60 - <2.60

Mixing instructions

Composite 1 Water 561.6 g submit

Add Imbentin AG / 124/150 5 g (about 45 ° C)

Composite 2 urea Add 48 g / dissolve

Add ethanolamine 12.2 g / mix

Add mercaptoglycerol 43.2 g / mix

Add GAFQuat HS 100 50 g / dissolve to comp. 1 and mix well

Composite 3 Water 50 g submit

Potassium hydroxide solution add 50% 50 g / mix to comp. 1 + 2 and mix well

Composite 4 water 50 g submit

Add potassium carbonate anhydrous 7.5 g / dissolve

Add Inocot K-4320 20 g / mix to comp. 1 + 2 + 3 and mix well

Add perfume 5 g / mix

Composite 5 magnesium hydroxide 15 g submit

Add Prisulon CR-P 450 40 g / mix

Ethanol denate. Add 30 g / mix

Polyethylene glycol 200 add 5 g / mix

Add Pluronic PE 4300 7.5 g / mix to Comp. 1 + 2 + 3 + 4 and emulsify well

6. Viscosity measurement at the earliest after approx. 2 hours (swelling time thickener!)

The pH of this mass is 11 and the concentration of mercaptoglycerol at 0.4 mol / kg, ie, the alkali concentration is two pH units below the value of comparable compositions, and the concentration of Mercaptoverbuindung is about 20% below the value of comparable compositions. The depilation time for male leg hair is between 3 and 3.5 minutes.

Claims

Claims:

A hair-removing cosmetic composition comprising: at least one fat-dissolving compound having a Godfrey M-number of 1 to 18, at least one mercapto compound, and at least one amine compound.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the fat dissolving compound is selected from:

Alcohols having 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 carbon atoms,

Ethylene oxide homopolymers, propylene oxide homopolymers and their derivatives, random ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers and their derivatives, - ethylene oxide and propylene oxide block copolymers and their derivatives,

Ether alcohols such as ethoxyethanol (ethoxy glycol), propoxyethanol (propoxy glycol), butoxyethanol (butoxy glycol), or butyl acetate and glycerol triacetate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fat-dissolving compound of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide block copolymers, preferably Pluriol E, Pluriol P, Pluronic PE, Pluronic RPE, (all from the company. BASF), particularly preferably Pluronic PE 4300 (BASF) is selected.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which additionally comprises at least one fat-sorbing compound.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the fat-sorbing

Compound is selected from: - mineral oils, Fatty alcohols, fatty acids and fatty amides each independently with 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, or 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, and their esterification products, triglycerides, ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty alcohols in each case independently of one another with 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23 or 24 carbon atoms in the fatty alcohol and independently of one another with 1 to 10, preferably 1 to 5 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units, and / or organosilicon compounds.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the fat-sorbie- rende compound of octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, phenyldimethicones, cetyl dimethicones and cyclomethicones is selected.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the mercapto compound is selected from thioglycolic acid and its salts or complexes, in particular sodium, potassium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, tin or zinc salts or Complexes of thioglycolic acid, dithiothreitol, mercaptoethanol and / or mercaptoglycerol.

A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises at least one reducing enediol or its derivative, a keto sugar, acetoin or adepoin.

A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises at least one primary amine compound, in particular monoethanolamine.

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one secondary amine compound, in particular diethanolamine.

11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one tertiary amine, in particular 1,4-diazabicyclo [2.2.2] octane (DABCO), l, 8-diazabicyclo [5.4.0] undec-7-ene (DBU) , 1,4-diazabicyclo [4.3.0] non-5-ene and / or triethanolamine.

12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one quaternary ammonium salt, in particular tetrabutylammonium chloride or a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one primary amine and / or at least one secondary amine and / or at least one tertiary amine and / or at least one quaternary ammonium compound.

14. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, which has a pH of 9 to 12, preferably from 10 to 11, particularly preferably from about 10.5.

Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a buffer system.

The cosmetic composition of claim 15, wherein the buffer system comprises potassium bicarbonate / potassium carbonate and / or silica / caustic soda.

A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises at least one surfactant having an HLB of 7 to 18.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 17, wherein the surfactant is lauryl sulfate, laureth sulfate, Span 20, Tween 20, Brij 58, Renex 720, Laureth-23, Inbetin 180, particularly preferably a mixture of 2/3 laureth sulfate and 1/3 lauryl ethoxylate, each based on the weight, comprises.

A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising a thickening agent.

The cosmetic composition of claim 19, wherein the thickening agent is selected from cetyl alcohol, sodium alginates, polyacrylates, cellulose derivatives and / or polyurethanes, optionally in combination with one or more

Alkyl-aryl polyglycol ethers.

21. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any preceding claims for the removal of hair.

22. A film arrangement for removing hair, with a carrier film, wherein the carrier film a) on one side with a cosmetic composition according to one of

Claims 1 to 20 is coated.

23. A film assembly according to claim 22, wherein the layer a) additionally comprises an adhesive.

24. A film arrangement according to claim 22 or claim 23, wherein on the layer a) a peelable protective film b) is arranged.

25. Film arrangement according to one of claims 22 to 24, wherein the other side of the carrier film is provided with a rough surface.

26. Glove comprising a film assembly according to any one of claims 22 to 25.