Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
  • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
  • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

• cationic polymers as hair-setting or hair- conditioning ingredients.
• cationic polymers provide the hair with good combing properties after application in wet hair and effect good setting with a good hold in dry hair.
• cationic polymers are used to provide good combing properties in wet hair and good hold properties in dry hair. They provide hairstyle stability and increase hair volume in dry hair.
• cationic polymers have not been widely used up to now in higher- viscosity products such as gels, waxes, hairdressing creams, or treatments, because the composition as well as the product consistency and the resulting more difficult application meant that the advantages of the cationic polymers could't be fully realized on the hair.
• a process for atomizing liquid is known from WO 03/051523 Al with which the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the application with respect to atomizing liquid compositions is described. A fixture for atomizing liquid products is described in WO 03/051522 A2, wherein the spray is formed using a capillary. Only the use of liquid compositions for atomizing, which can also be highly viscous, is described, wherein, however, 0.00073 lb/in 2 s (5,000 mPa s) is mentioned as the maximum sprayable viscosity.
• the object of the invention was to further improve the distributability on hair, the volume effect, the setting effect and/or hairstyle stability, the combing properties, the hair shine, and/or the holding properties of conventional hair treatment compositions, which were previously unavailable as a spray, and/or the hair treated with said composition.
• the object of the invention is a product release system for atomizing cosmetic compositions.
• the product release system has the following features:
• a spray head containing a capillary containing a capillary
• a propellant-containing cosmetic composition wherein atomization is done using the capillary and the composition contains at least one film-forming, hair-setting, or hair-conditioning cationic polymer.
• atomize is understood to mean the release of the product in the form of dissipated particles.
• the dissipated particles can have varying shapes, consistencies, and sizes.
• the properties of the atomized particles can include everything from fine aerosol atomized spray to liquid drops, snow-like drops, solid spray flakes and spray foam.
• the quantities of ingredients (e.g. wt. %) indicated in the following are each based on the basic composition without propellant unless explicitly indicated otherwise.
• the quantities of the propellant are based on the total composition including propellant.
• the composition is preferably non-liquid at 77°F (25 °C) and/or has a viscosity greater than 0.00073 lb/in 2 s (5,000 mPa s) (measured with a HAAKE VT-550 Rheometer, SV-DIN test body at a temperature of 77°F (25°C) and a shear speed of 12.9 s "1 ).
• Non-liquid compositions in terms of the invention are particularly non-flow-capable compositions, which, for example, can be determined due to the fact that they will not flow off of a glass surface tilted at 45° at a temperature of 77 0 F (25°C).
• Gel compositions are characterized in that the memory module G' is larger than the loss module G" at 77 0 F (25°C) with oscillographic measurements in the typical measurement range (0.01 to 40 Hz).
• the viscosity of the composition to be used is preferably greater than 0.00073 (5,000) up to 0.0145 (100,000), and especially preferably 0.00145 (10,000) to 0.00725 lb/in 2 s (50,000 mPa s), or very especially preferably 0.00362 (25,000) to 0.0051 lb/in 2 s (35,000 mPa s), measured with a HAAKE VT-550 Rheometer, SV-DIN test body at a temperature of 77°F (25 0 C) and a shear speed of 12.9 s "1 .
• Aerosol spray cans constructed of metal or plastic can be used as the pressure- resistant packaging.
• Preferred metals are tin plates and aluminum, while the preferred plastic is polyethylene terephthalate.
• Suitable spray systems with capillary-containing spray heads, with which the spray is formed using a capillary are described in WO 03/051523 Al and in WO 03/051522 A2.
• the capillaries preferably have a diameter of 0.00394 (0.1) to 0.03937 in (1 mm), or particularly 0.00787 (0.2) to 0.02362 in (0.6 mm), and a length that is preferably 0.1968 (5) to 3.937 in (100 mm), or particularly 0.1968 (5) to 1.9685 in (50 mm).
• the spray principle is also described in Aerosol Europe, vol. 13, no. 1-2005, pages 6-11. The spray system is based on the principle of capillary atomization.
• the conventional swirl nozzle as well as, if necessary, the uptake tube are replaced by capillaries.
• the energy-consuming and propellant-intensive swirling of the content of the can and the required strong dilution of the product with solvents is not necessary as compared to conventional spray systems.
• the spray rate can be adjusted via the selection of the capillary geometry in conjunction with the interior pressure created by the propellant or a propellant mixture.
• Preferred spray rates are 0.00035 (0.01058) to 0.0176 oz/s (0.5 g/s), particularly 0.00353 (0.1) to 0.01 oz/s (0.3 g/s).
• the size of the spray drops created with the atomization can be adjusted via the selection of the capillary geometry in conjunction with the interior pressure or the viscosity of the composition. Suitable capillary atomization systems can be obtained in a product called TRUSPRAY® from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH.
• the preferred drop size distributions are those with which the dv(50) value is a maximum of 0.00393 in (100 /mi), e.g. of from 0.00197 (50) to 0.00393 in (100 ⁇ m), with a maximum of 0.00354 in (90 ⁇ m) being especially preferred, e.g. of from 0.00275 (70) to 0.00354 in (90 ⁇ m), and/or with which the dv(90) value is a maximum of 0.0629 in (160 ⁇ m), e.g. of from 0.00354 (90) to 0.0629 in (160 ⁇ m), with a maximum of 0.0059 in (150 ⁇ m) being especially preferred, e.g.
• the dv(50) or dv(90) values provide the maximum diameter that 50% or 90% of all droplets have.
• the drop size distribution can, for example, be determined with the help of a particle measurement unit based on laser beam diffraction, e.g. a Malvern particle sizer measuring device.
• Compositions that form a snow-like consistency, flakes, or foam (spray foam) upon exiting the capillary spray system are also preferred.
• the propellant to be used can be selected from lower alkanes, particularly C3 to C5 hydrocarbons such as, for example, n-butane, i-butane, and propane, or also mixtures thereof, as well as dimethylethers or fluorine hydrocarbons such as F 152a (1,1-difluoroethane) or F 134 (tetrafluoroethane) as well as other gaseous propellants present with the pressures considered, such as, for example, N 2 , N 2 O, and CO 2 as well as mixtures of the aforementioned propellants.
• the propellant is preferably selected from propane, n-butane, isobutane, dimethylether, fluorinated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
• the content of propellant is, in addition, preferably 15 to 85 wt. %, with 25 to 75 wt. % being especially preferred.
• the composition contains cosmetically acceptable solvents, preferably an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic medium.
• the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 C atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be contained as alcohols, particularly those typically used for cosmetic purposes.
• the composition can be in a pH range of 2.0 to 9.5. A pH range of 4 to 8 is particular preferred, providing no special application forms require other pH values.
• organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point of less than 752°F (400°C) can be contained in a quantity of from 0.1 to 15 wt. % or preferably of from 1 to 10 wt. %.
• Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as n- pentane, hexane, isopentane, and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents. These volatile hydrocarbons can also be used as propellants.
• Other, especially preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol in a quantity of up to 30 wt. %.
• the product release system according to the invention can be used for hair treatment.
• compositions can be agents for the care of hair such as, for example, hair-repair products or hair rinses, which, for example, can be applied as leave-on or rinse-off products; agents for the temporary reshaping and/or stabilizing of the hairstyle (styling agent), for example hair sprays, hair lacquers, hair gels, hair waxes, styling creams, etc.; permanent, semipermanent, or temporary hair colorants, for example oxidative hair colorants or nonoxidative hair tinting agents or hair bleaching agents; permanent hair restructuring agents, for example in the form of a mildly alkaline or acidic permanent wave or hair straightening agents containing a reducing agent, or in the form of permanent wave fixing agents containing an oxidizing agent.
• hair-repair products or hair rinses which, for example, can be applied as leave-on or rinse-off products
• agents for the temporary reshaping and/or stabilizing of the hairstyle for example hair sprays, hair lacquers, hair gels, hair waxes
• the cationic polymers are contained in the composition to be used according to the present invention in a quantity that is preferably 0.01 to 20 wt. % or 0.05 to 10 wt. %, with 0.1 to 5 wt. % being particularly preferred.
• the polymers can be synthetic or natural polymers.
• the polymers are hair-setting and/or hair-conditioning polymers that preferably form a film as well.
• Natural polymers are understood to also include chemically modified polymers of natural origin. Hair-setting polymers are understood to be those capable of exhibiting a setting effect on the hair or a stabilizing effect on the hairstyle when used in a 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion, e.g.
• Hair-conditioning polymers are understood to be those capable of exhibiting a hair- conditioning or conditioning effect on the hair when used in a 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion, e.g. those that improve the combing ability or increase shine, especially those for which the "Hair Conditioning Agents” function is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004.
• Film- forming polymers are understood to be those capable of depositing a polymer film on the hair after drying when used in a 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous alcoholic solution or dispersion, especially those for which the 'TiIm Formers" function is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004.
• the polymers can also simultaneously have two or three of the properties known as "film-forming,” “hair- setting,” and "hair-conditioning.”
• Cationic polymers are polymers with cationic groups or with amine groups, particularly primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine groups.
• the cationic charge density will preferably be 1 to 7 meq/g.
• Suitable synthetic cationic polymers are homo- or copolymers consisting of at least one of the following monomers:dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, and monoalkyl aminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium, dialkyl diallyl ammonium, and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic groups containing cationic nitrogens.
• Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amino groups.
• Cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, where the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as substituents on one or more of the monomers.
• the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non- cationic monomers.
• Suitable cationic monomer are unsaturated compounds that can undergo radical polymerization, which bear at least one cationic group, especially ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.
• the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as, for example, Cl to C7 alkyl groups, and especially preferred are Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
• the monomers containing ammonium groups can be copolymerized with non- cationic monomers.
• Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl esters, for example vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably Cl to C7 alkyl groups, and especially preferred are Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
• Suitable polymers with quaternary amino groups are, for example, those described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the designations Polyquaternium such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride/vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium- 16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
• Polyquaternium- 11 as well as quaternary silicone polymers or silicone oligomers such as, for example, silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
• Preferred cationic polymers of synthetic origin poly(dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride); copolymers firom acrylamide and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride; quaternary ammonium polymers, formed by the reaction of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, especially vmylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer (e.g. Gafquat® 755 N, Gafquat® 734); quaternary ammonium polymers from methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone (e.g.
• LUVIQUAT® HM 550 Polyquaternium-35; Polyquaternium-57; polymers from trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate chloride; terpolymers from dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide (e.g. Merquat® Plus 3300); copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride; terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylcaprolactam (e.g.
• Gaffix® VC 713 vinylpyiTolidone/methacrylaimdopropylirime&ylammoniuni chloride copolymers (e.g. Gafquat® HS 100); copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam and dimethylaiTiiiiopropylacrylamide; poly- or oligoesters formed from at least one first type of monomer, that is selected from hydroxyacids substituted with at least one quaternary ammonium group; dimethylpolysiloxane substituted with quaternary ammonium groups in the terminal positions.
• Suitable cationic polymers that are derived from natural polymers are especially cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Furthermore, chitosan and chitosan derivatives are also suitable.
• Cationic polysaccharides are, for example, represented by the general formula
• G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example, starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
• B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
• R a , R b , and R c independently from one another, are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl, any of which can have up to 18 C atoms, wherein the total number of C atoms in R a , R b , and R c is preferably a maximum of 20;
• X is a conventional counter-anion, for example, a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, or alkyl sulfate, preferably a chloride.
• Cationic celluloses are, for example, those with the ESfCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, or Polyquaternium-24.
• a suitable cationic guar derivative has, for example, the BSfCI designation Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
• Especially preferred cationically-active substances are chitosan, chitosan salts and chitosan derivatives.
• Chitosans that can be used according to the invention can be fully or partially deacetylated chitins.
• the molecular weight can be distributed over a broad range, from 20,000 to about 5 million g/mol, for example from 30,000 to 70,000 g/mol.
• the molecular weight will preferably lie above 100,000 g/mol, and especially preferred from 200,000 to 700,000 g/mol.
• the degree of deacetylation is preferably from 10 to 99%, and especially preferably from 60 to 99%.
• a preferred chitosan salt is chitosonium pyrrolidone carboxylate, e.g. Kytamer® PC with a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to 300,000 g/mol and a degree of deacetylation of from 70 to 85%.
• Chitosan derivatives that can be considered include quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, e.g. hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or hydroxybutyl chitosan.
• the chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably present in their neutralized or partially neutralized form.
• the degree of neutralization will be preferably at least 50%, especially preferably between 70 and 100%, as calculated on the basis of the number of free base groups.
• any cosmetically compatible inorganic or organic acids can be used such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and others, of which pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is especially preferred.
• Preferred cationic polymers derived from natural sources cationic cellulose derivatives from hydroxyethyl cellulose and diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride; cationic cellulose deviates from hydroxyethyl cellulose and trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide; chitosan and its salts; hydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; alkylhydroxyalkyl chitosans and their salts; N-hydroxyalkylchitosan alkyl ethers.
• the composition to be used according to the invention is a gel and contains at least one thickener or gel-former preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.1 to 10 wt. %, of from 0.5 to 8 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 1 to 5 wt. %.
• Materials for which the function "Viscosity Increasing Agent" is indicated in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, 2004 are essentially suitable.
• the thickener or gel-former is preferably a thickening polymer and is especially preferably selected from copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; crosslinked polyacrylic acid; crosslinked copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of acrylic acid with ClO to C30 alcohols; copolymers consisting of at least one first type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from esters of itaconic acid and ethoxylated fatty alcohol; copolymers consisting of at least one type of monomer, which is selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, at least one second type of monomer, which is selected from
• the composition is waxy and contains at least one wax that is solid at 25°C preferably in a quantity of from 10 to 80 wt. %, particularly of from 20 to 60 wt. %, or of from 25 to 50 wt. %, as well as, if necessary, other water- insoluble materials that are liquid at room temperature.
• the waxy consistency is preferably characterized in that the needle penetration number (unit of measurement
• 0.00394 in (0,1 mm), test weight 3.937 oz (100 g), testing time 5 s, test temperature 77°F (25°C); according to DESf 51 579) preferably ranges from 2 to 70, or particularly from 3 to 40, and/or that the composition can be melted and has a solidification point that is greater than 77°F (25°C), or is preferably in a range of from 86 (30) to 158°F (70°C), or especially preferably in a range of from 104 (40) to 131 0 F (55°C).
• any wax that is known in the prior art can be used as a wax or waxy material.
• waxes include animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic waxes, microcrystalline waxes, macrocrystalline waxes, solid paraffins, petroleum jelly, Vaseline, ozocerite, montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyolefin waxes, e.g.
• polybutene beeswax, wool wax, and its derivatives such as, for example, wool wax alcohols, candelilla wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, apple wax, hydrogenated fats, fatty acid esters, fatty acid glycerides with a solidification point greater than 104 0 F (40 0 C), silicone waxes or hydrophilic waxes such as, for example, high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol waxes with a molecular weight of from 800 to 20,000, preferably of from 2,000 to 10,000 g/mol.
• silicone waxes or hydrophilic waxes such as, for example, high-molecular-weight polyethylene glycol waxes with a molecular weight of from 800 to 20,000, preferably of from 2,000 to 10,000 g/mol.
• the waxes or waxy materials have a solidification point greater than 77°F (25°C), or preferably greater than 104°F (4O 0 C) or 131°F (55 0 C).
• the needle penetration number (0.00394 in (0,1 mm), 3.937 oz (100 g), 5 s, 77°F (25°C); according to DIN 51 579) preferably lies in the range of from 2 to 70, or especially 3 to 40.
• the composition is emulsion-like, wherein the consistency is preferably creamy.
• the emulsion can be a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, or a higher emulsion.
• at least one hydrophobic oil that is liquid at room temperature (77°F (25 0 C)) as well as at least one emulsifier is contained.
• the oil content is preferably of from 1 to 20 wt. %, or particularly of from 2 to 10 wt. %.
• the emulsifier content is preferably of from 0.01 to 30 wt. %, or particularly of from 0.1 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.5 to 10 wt. %.
• Suitable liquid, hydrophobic oils have a melting point of less than 77 0 F (25°C) and a boiling point of preferably greater than 482°F (250 0 C), or particularly greater than 572°F (300 0 C). Volatile oils can also be used, hi principle, any oil generally known to a person skilled in the art can be used. Suitable oils are vegetable or animal oils, mineral oils (liquid paraffin), silicone oils or their mixtures. Hydrocarbon oils, e.g. paraffin or isoparaffin oils, squalane, oils from fatty acids and polyols, especially triglycerides, are suitable.
• Suitable vegetable oils are, for example, sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soy oil.
• Suitable emulsifiers can include nonionic, anionic, cationic, or zwitterionic surfactants.
• Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid glycerides, or alkyl phenols, especially addition products of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or
• C22 alkyl groups e.g. decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside.
• Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, salts and esters of carboxylic acids, alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfonic acids and their salts (e.g. sulfosuccinates or fatty acid isethienates), phosphoric acid esters and their salts, acylamino acids and their salts.
• FIEDLER - Lexikon der Hilfsscher [FIEDLER -Dictionary of Adjuvants] , volume 1, fifth edition (2002), pages 97 to 102, to which expressed reference is made.
• Preferred surfactants are mono-, di-, and/or triesters of phosphoric acid with addition products of from 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide to C8 to C22 fatty alcohols.
• Suitable amphoteric surfactants are, for example, derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium and sulfonium compounds of the formula
• Rl represents a straight-chain or branched-chain alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxyalkyl group with 8 to 18 C atoms and 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide units and 0 to 1 glycerol units
• Y is an N-, P-, or S-containing group
• R2 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group with 1 to 3 C atoms
• the total of x+y equals 2 if Y is a sulfur atom
• the total of x+y equals 3 if Y is a nitrogen atom or a phosphorus atom
• R3 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group with 1 to 4 C atoms
• Z H represents a carboxylate, sulfate, phosphonate, or phosphate group.
• amphoteric surfactants such as betaines are also suitable.
• betaines include C8 to Cl 8 alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl- alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine, and lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)-alpha- carboxyethylbetaine; C8 to Cl 8 sulfobetaines such as cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine; the carboxyl derivatives of imidazole, C8 to Cl 8 alkyldimethylammonium acetate
• Suitable cationic surfactants contain amino groups or quaternized hydrophilic ammonium groups that carry a positive charge in solution and can be represented by the general formula
• Rl to R4 independently from one another, stand for aliphatic groups, aromatic groups, alkoxy groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, alkylamido groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, aryl groups, or alkaryl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, wherein at least one radical has at least 6, preferably at least 8, C atoms and X " represents an anion, for example a halide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, or alkyl sulfate, but preferably a chloride.
• the aliphatic groups can also contain cross-compounds, or other groups, such as, for example, additional amino groups.
• Suitable cationic surfactants are the chlorides or bromides of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium salts, alkyltrimethylarnmonium salts, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, tetradecyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl- or cetylpyridinium chloride, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates as well as compounds with cationic character such as amine oxides, e.g.
• alkylmethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides are especially preferred.
• C8-22 allcyldimethylbenzylammonium compounds are especially cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, C8-22 alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium compounds, di-(C8-22 alkyl)-dimethylammonium compounds, C8-22 alkylpyridinium salts, C8-22 alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, C8-22 alkylmethylamine oxides, and C8-22 alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.
• the cosmetic composition to be used according to the present invention can also contain at least one additional active cosmetic ingredient or additive for the hair or skin/scalp.
• This active ingredient or additive can, for example, be selected from hair-conditioning materials, hair-setting materials, silicone compounds, photoprotective materials, preservatives, pigments, direct-penetrating hair dyes, particle-shaped materials, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, and oxidative hair colorant precursor products.
• the active ingredients and additives are preferably contained in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. %, or particularly of from 0.05 to 10, or of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %.
• the agent according to the invention contains at least one polymer with anionic groups or groups that can be anionized preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, with 0.1 to 5 wt. % being particularly preferred.
• Groups that can be anionized are understood to be acid groups such as, for example, carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphoric acid groups that can be deprotonated using typical bases such as, for example, organic amines or alkali- or alkaline earth hydroxides.
• the anionic polymers can be partially or completely neutralized with an alkaline neutralizing agent.
• Organic or inorganic bases can be used as the neutralizing agent.
• bases are amino alkanols such as, for example, ammomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine or monoethanolamine, and also ammonia, NaOH, and KOH among others.
• the anionic polymer can be a homo- or copolymer with acid group-containing monomer units derived from natural or synthetic sources, which, if necessary, can be polymerized with comonomers that contain no acid groups.
• acid groups that can be considered are sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, and carboxylic acid groups, of which the carboxylic acid groups are preferred.
• Suitable acid group-containing monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and nialeic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters, especially the Cl to C7 alkyl monoesters of maleic acid, as well as aldehydocarboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids.
• Comonomers that are not substituted with acid groups are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, amine- substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably Cl to C7 alkyl groups, with Cl to C-alkyl groups being especially preferred.
• Suitable polymers with acid groups are especially homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid with monomers selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides, methacrylamides and vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers of crotonic acid as well as copolymers of crotonic acid with monomers selected from vinyl esters, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters, acrylamides and methacrylamides that are uncrosslinked or crosslinked with polyfunctional agents.
• a suitable natural polymer is, for example, shellac.
• Preferred polymers with acid groups are:
• Terpolymers from acrylic acid, alkyl acrylate, and N-alkylacrylamide (INCI designation: Acrylate/Acrylamide Copolymer), especially terpolymers from acrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide; crosslinked or uncrosslinked vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers (INCI designation: VA/Crotonate Copolymer); copolymers from one or more Cl to C5 alkyl acrylates, especially C2 to C4 alkyl acrylates and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid (INCI designation: Acrylate Copolymer), e.g.
• the agent according to the invention contains at least one zwitterionic and/or amphoteric polymer preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 20 wt. % or of from 0.05 to 10 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %.
• Zwitterionic polymers simultaneously have at least one anionic and at least one cationic charge.
• Amphoteric polymers exhibit at least one acidic group (e.g. carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid group) and at least one alkaline group (e.g. amino group). Acidic groups can be deprotonated using typical bases such as, for example, organic amines or alkali- or alkaline earth hydroxides.
• Preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers are: copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, and two or more monomers from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as, if necessary, their esters, especially copolymers from octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI designation: Octylacrylamide/Acrylate/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer); copolymers, that are formed from at least one of a first type of monomer that possesses quaternary amino groups and at least one of a second type of monomer that possesses acid groups; copolymers from fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as well as if necessary acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters, especially
• the agent of the present invention contains 0.01 to 15 wt. %, or preferably 0.5 to 10 wt. %, of at least one synthetic or natural nonionic film-forming polymer.
• Suitable synthetic nonionic polymers are homo- or copolymers consisting of at least one of the following monomers: vinyl lactams such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl caprolactam; vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate; vinyl alcohol, vinyl formarnide, acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl acrylamides, dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl methacrylamides, dialkyl methacryl amides, alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, alkyl maleimides such as, for example, ethylmaleimide or hydroxyethylmaleimide, and alkylene glycols such as, for example, propylene or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl and/or alkylene groups of these monomers are preferably Cl to C7 alkyl groups, or especially preferably Cl to C3 alkyl groups.
• vinyl lactams such as, for example, vinyl pyrrolidone or vinyl cap
• Suitable homopolymers are, for example, those of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.
• Further suitable synthetic, nonionic polymers are, for example, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers, copolymerides from vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol copolymers.
• Suitable natural film- forming polymers are, in particular, those based on saccharide, preferably glucans, e.g. cellulose and derivatives thereof.
• Suitable derivatives are, in particular, those with alkyl and/or hydroxyalkyl substituents, wherein the alkyl groups can have, for example, 1 to 20, or preferably 1 to 4 C atoms, e.g. hydroxyalkyl cellulose.
• Preferred nonionic polymers are: polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polyvinyl alcohol, isobutylene/ethylmaleimide/hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer; copolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate.
• the agent according to the invention contains at least one silicone compound preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 15 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %.
• the silicone compounds include volatile and nonvolatile silicones and silicones that are soluble and insoluble in the agent.
• One embodiment is high-molecular-weight silicone with a viscosity of 1,000 to 2,000,000 cSt at 77 0 F (25°C), or preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 or 100,000 to 1,500,000.
• the silicone compounds include polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxanes, particularly with methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl, and phenylmethyl groups.
• silicone compounds include, in particular, the materials with the BSfCI designations Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone Copolyol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Amodimethicone, Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, Stearyl Siloxysilicate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, and Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
• Silicone resins and silicone elastomers are also suitable, wherein these are highly crosslinked siloxanes.
• Preferred silicones are: cyclic dimethyl siloxanes, linear polydimethyl siloxanes, block polymers from polydimethyl siloxane and polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide, polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal or lateral polyethylene oxide or polypropylenoxide radicals, polydimethyl siloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups, phenyl-substituted polydimethyl siloxanes, silicone emulsions, silicone elastomers, silicone waxes, silicone gums, amino- substituted silicones, and silicones substituted with quaternary ammonia groups.
• the agent according to the invention contains a photoprotective material preferably in a quantity of from 0.01 to 10 wt. % or of from 0.1 to 5 wt. %, or especially preferably of from 0.2 to 2 wt. %.
• the photoprotective materials include, in particular, all the photoprotective materials mentioned in EP 1 084 696. The following are preferred: 4-methoxy cinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, methyl methoxy cinnamate, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, and polyethoxylated p-aminobenzoate.
• the agent according to the present invention contains 0.01 to 20, especially preferably 0.05 to 10, or very especially preferably 0.1 to 5 wt. % of at least one hair-conditioning additive, selected from betaine; panthenol; panthenyl ethyl ether; sorbitol; protein hydro lysates; plant extracts; A-B block copolymers from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates; A-B block copolymers from alkyl methacrylates, and acrylonitrile; A-B-A block copolymers from lactide and ethylene oxide; A-B-A block copolymers from caprolacton and ethylene oxide; A-B-C block copolymers from alkylene or alkadiene compounds, styrene and alkyl methacrylates; A-B-C block copolymers from acrylic acid, styrene, and alkyl methacrylates; star-shaped block copolymers; hyper- branchedio
• the agent according to the invention contains 0.01 to 5, or especially preferably 0.05 to 1 wt. %, of at least one preservative.
• Suitable preservatives are those materials listed with the "Preservatives" function in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th edition, e.g. phenoxyethanol, benzylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, and DMDM hydantoin.
• a particular embodiment of the invention relates to a hair-conditioning agent.
• Hair-conditioning agents are, for example, conditioners, treatments, hair-repair products, rinses, and the like.
• the hair-conditioning agent contains at least one hair-conditioning ingredient selected from the aforementioned silicone compounds, cationic or amine- substituted surfactants, and cationic or amine-substituted polymers.
• the hair-conditioning agent can be used in quantities of between 0.01 and 10.0 wt. %, or particularly between 0.01 and 5.0 wt. %, based on the finished product.
• the hair-conditioning agent according to the invention can, after application to the dry, damp, or wet hair, either remain in the hair or it can be rinsed out after a suitable action period.
• the action periods depend on the type of hair. As a general rule, action periods of between 0.5 and 30 minutes, particularly 0.5 and 10 minutes, and preferably between 1 and 5 minutes can be assumed.
• Rl is an acyl or an alkyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms, which can be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, whereby the acyl and/or the alkyl residue can contain one or more OH groups
• R2, R3 and R4 independently of one another are hydrogen, alkyl or alkoxyalkyl residues with 1 to 6 C atoms, which can be the same or different, saturated or unsaturated and can be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups
• X ' is an anion, especially a halide ion or a compound of the general formula RSO 3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl residues with 1 to 4
• the active hair-conditioning compound is preferably an amidoamine and/or a quaternized amidoamine of the aforementioned formulae, wherein Rl is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group.
• Rl is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group.
• R2 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group.
• R2 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group.
• R2 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8 to 24 C atoms that can contain at least one OH group.
• R2 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acy
• Suitable amines or amidoamines which can be optionally quaternized, are especially such with the INCI names Ricinoleamidopropyl Betaine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethyl Lactate, Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearylamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium- 33, Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate.
• the agent according to the invention contains at least one pigment.
• the pigments can be colored pigments that provide coloring effects to the product mass or the hair, or they can be shine-enhancing pigments that provide shine effects to the product or the hair.
• the color or shine effects in the hair are preferably temporary, i.e. they remain until the next time the hair is washed and can be removed by washing the hair with typical shampoos.
• the pigments are not dissolved in the product mass and can be contained in a quantity of from 0.01 to 25 wt. %, with 5 to 15 wt. % being particularly preferred.
• the preferred particle size is 3.93 x 10 "5 (1) to 0.00787 in (200 ⁇ m), particularly 0.00012 (3) to 0.00591 in (150 ⁇ m), and especially preferably 0.00039 (10) to 0.00393 in (100 ⁇ m).
• the pigments are practically insoluble colorants in the application medium and can be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Inorganic pigments are preferred. The advantage of inorganic pigments is their extraordinary resistance to light, weather, and temperature.
• the inorganic pigments can be of natural origin, for example, manufactured from chalk, ocher, umbra, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena, or graphite.
• the pigments can also be white pigments such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; black pigments such as, for example, iron oxide black; color pigments such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red; shine pigments; metal effect pigments; pearl shine pigments; as well as fluorescence or phosphorescence pigments; wherein it is preferred if at least one pigment is a colored, nonwhite pigment.
• Metallic oxides, metallic hydroxides, and metallic oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metallic sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metallic sulfates, metallic chromates, and metallic molybdates, as well as the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable.
• Titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 111 AT), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI77510), and carmine (cochineal) are particularly suitable.
• a metallic oxide or a metallic oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride
• other color-providing materials such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine, etc., and wherein the color can be determined by varying the layer thickness are especially preferred.
• These types of pigments are sold, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona®, and Timiron® by Merck, in Germany.
• Organic pigments are, for example, the natural pigments sepia, Garcinia gumrni- gutta, bone black, Van Dyke brown, indigo, chlorophyll, and other plant pigments.
• Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo-pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, and dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene, perinone, metallic complex, alkali blue, and diketopyrrolopyrrol pigments.
• the agent according to the present invention contains 0.01 to
• Suitable materials are, for example, materials that are solid and in the form of particles at room temperature (77°F (25°C)).
• Silica, silicates, aluminates, alumina, mica, salts, particularly inorganic metallic salts, metallic oxides, e.g. titanium dioxide, minerals, and polymer particles are somewhat suitable.
• the particles are present in the agent in an undissolved, preferably steadily dispersed form and can be deposited on the hair in solid form after being applied to the hair and after the solvent has evaporated.
• a stable dispersion can be obtained by providing the composition with a yield point that is great enough to inhibit any sinking of the solid particles.
• Preferred particle-shaped materials are silica (silica gel, silicium dioxide) and metallic salts, particularly inorganic metallic salts, wherein silica is especially preferred.
• Metallic salts are, for example, alkaline or alkaline-earth halogenides such as sodium chloride or potassium chloride; and alkaline or alkaline earth sulfates such as sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate.
• An additional embodiment relates to an agent for permanently restructuring hair. It contains at least one reducing agent, particularly a keratin-reducing mercapto compound preferably in a quantity of from 0.5 to 15 wt. %.
• the required alkalinity is obtained by adding ammonia, organic amines, ammonium and alkali carbonates, or bicarbonates.
• a sodium or ammonium sulfite or the salt of sulfuric acid with an organic amine such as, for example, monoethanolamine and guanidine can be used in a concentration of approximately 2 to 12 wt. % (calculated as SO2).
• SO2 organic amine
• mercaptoacetic acid mono glycol esters or glycerol esters are particularly used in a concentration of approximately 5 to 50 wt. % (corresponding to a content of 2 to 16 wt. % mercaptoacetic acid).
• the agent according to the invention for permanent restructuring of hair can also contain a mixture of the aforementioned keratin-reducing compounds.
• a fixing agent according to the invention containing at least one oxidizing agent can be used.
• oxidizing agents sodium and potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide, and hydrogen peroxide.
• the concentration of oxidizing agent can be approximately 0.5 to 10 wt. %.
• Both the agent according to the invention for permanent hair restructuring as well as the fixing agent according to the invention can be present in the form of an emulsion or in thickened form on an aqueous basis, particularly as a cream, gel, or paste.
• composition to be used according to the invention can further contain any additive components that are conventional for hair treatment agents, for example perfume oils; opacifying agents such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, styrene/PVP copolymers or polystyrenes; humectants; shine providers; product dyes; antioxidants; each preferably in quantities of 0.01 to 10 wt. %, wherein the total quantity preferably does not exceed 10 wt. %.
• perfume oils for example, opacifying agents such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, styrene/PVP copolymers or polystyrenes
• humectants such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, styrene/PVP copolymers or polystyrenes
• humectants such as, for example, ethylene glycol distearate, styrene/PVP copolymers or polystyrenes
• the object of the invention is also a method for hair treatment, wherein a product release system according to the invention is provided, - via the product release system, the composition contained therein is sprayed on the hair, and the composition that is sprayed on is either rinsed out of the hair after an action period or it is left in the hair.
• the product can also be placed in the hands or on an application device such as, for example, a comb or a brush, and then distributed into the hair, particularly if the product has a snow-like consistency, or it is in the form of flakes or foam.
• an application device such as, for example, a comb or a brush
• the products according to the invention are characterized, constrained by their special application with the special aerosol spray system to be used according to the invention, by an excellent distribution capacity in conjunction with a good hairstyle stability with good hold as well as shine for the hair.
• An additional advantage of the products according to the present invention is that differing spray properties can be precisely adjusted by simply varying the propellant, the propellant composition, or the propellant pressure; these spray properties were not previously possible for the underlying active ingredient compositions.
• the spray properties include everything from a fine aerosol atomized spray and snow-like drops to flakes of spray and spray foam.
• the individual active ingredient compositions were filled, along with the individually indicated propellants, into a pressure-resistant aerosol can and equipped with a capillary spray system, as can be obtained, for example, under the trade name TRUSPRA Y® from Boehringer Ingelheim microParts GmbH.
• Active ingredient composition :
• Active ingredient composition :
• Example 5 Emulsion-like, creamy hair-repair product/treatment Active ingredient composition:
• Spray foam 5-5 Spray foam
• Spray properties 6- 1 : Snow-like spray 6-2: Snow-like spray 6-3: Wet aerosol spray 6-4: Spray foam 6-5: Spray foam

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