EP1698323A2 - Fine textured cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

A pulverulent cosmetic composition comprises a binder (8 wt.%) in a medium. The binder comprises at least one short ester and at least one silicone derivative. The mass content of short ester is greater than the mass content of the silicone derivative. An independent claim Is included for preparing pulverulent powder involving micronizing first portion (10 wt.%) of the binder containing short ester and the pulverulent filler with jet of air; and mixing the micronized components with second portion (90 wt.%) of the binder containing short ester.

Description

The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition for the makeup of the skin, as well as a method useful for preparing it.

An important part of the cosmetic compositions, and in particular makeup such as blushes, eyeshadow, and foundations for the face, are in a powdery appearance. These are mainly compositions conventionally described as "compact powders" or "free powders", consisting for the most part of a mixture of powders, colored or otherwise, and a generally fatty binder including oils. These powders are generally applied to the skin using an applicator such as a sponge, a puff or a brush.

In addition to an aesthetic effect in terms of makeup, the user generally expects the use of such products on the one hand comfort of wearing and application and on the other hand a good performance over time. The properties of wearing comfort and application result in particular qualities such as softness, fluidity, ability to slip and blend on the skin, and a very fine and creamy texture. The holding properties over time result in particular in a conservation of good properties for obtaining lasting makeup over time. However, for the reasons mentioned below, the conciliation of these two aspects, wearing comfort and application and held over time, in the same composition is not fully optimized.

Indeed, the aspect fluidity and / or softness to the application is generally related to the nature and the quantity of the binder retained. A composition must contain a sufficient quantity by binding to guarantee a homogeneous appearance, to give it good spreadability during its application, to prevent alteration of the makeup over time, and in addition in the particular case compact powders, to guarantee them a good ability to disintegrate and prevent fragmentation likely to be caused in particular by shocks. However, in certain circumstances, the nature of the binder and this sufficient amount of binder may prove otherwise detrimental in terms of comfort of application and wear.

Consequently, there remains to date a need for powdery cosmetic compositions, in particular for making up the skin, which give full satisfaction in terms of comfort properties of application and of wear and tear. held in time. More particularly, there is a need for a binder to obtain satisfactory compositions in these terms.

The present invention specifically aims to meet the needs mentioned above.

Consequently, according to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a pulverulent cosmetic composition, especially for the make-up of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an amount effective as a binder for at least one short ester and at least one silicone derivative, the mass content of short ester (s) being greater than the mass content of silicone derivative (s).

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a pulverulent cosmetic composition, in particular for the make-up of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an amount effective as a binder of at least a short ester and at least one silicone derivative, said amount being less than 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

• une quantité efficace à titre de liant d'au moins un ester court et
• au moins 15 % en poids d'au moins une charge organique sphérique par rapport au poids total de la composition.

According to another of its aspects, the invention also relates to a pulverulent cosmetic composition, especially for the make-up of the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least:

• an amount effective as a binder of at least one short ester and
• at least 15% by weight of at least one spherical organic filler relative to the total weight of the composition.

• une phase pulvérulente,
• une quantité efficace à titre de liant d'au moins un ester court, ladite composition possédant après décompactage, une granulométrie D 50 exprimée en volume inférieure à 12 µm et une polydispersité inférieure à 2.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a compacted cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least:

• a powdery phase,
• an amount effective as a binder of at least one short ester, said composition having after decompression, a particle size D 50 expressed in volume less than 12 microns and a polydispersity less than 2.

The inventors have furthermore discovered that specific conditions for using such a binder for the preparation of a pulverulent cosmetic composition could improve the qualities expected at the level thereof and in particular in colorimetric terms.

According to another of its aspects, the invention relates to a pulverulent cosmetic composition comprising, as binder, at least one short ester, characterized in that it is obtained by micronisation, in particular by air jet, of all its components, said short ester being added, at the end of said step of micronization with mechanical stirring, in a proportion of at least 90% by weight relative to its total weight in said composition.

According to a variant of the invention, the binder may comprise, besides a short ester according to the invention, at least one silicone derivative as defined below.

• microniser par jet d'air l'ensemble des composants de ladite charge pulvérulente en présence, le cas échéant, de moins de 10 % en poids dudit ester court par rapport à son poids total dans ladite composition et
• mélanger la charge pulvérulente micronisée obtenue à l'issue de l'étape précédente avec au moins 90 % en poids dudit ester court par rapport à son poids total dans ladite composition.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a pulverulent powder composed of at least one pulverulent filler and of an effective amount as binder of at least one short ester, characterized in that comprises at least the steps of:

• micronizing by air jet all the components of said powdery filler in the presence, if appropriate, of less than 10% by weight of said short ester relative to its total weight in said composition and
• mixing the micronized pulverulent filler obtained at the end of the preceding step with at least 90% by weight of said short ester relative to its total weight in said composition.

According to an alternative embodiment, the short ester is incorporated integrally at the end of the micronization step. In which case, the binder capable of being introduced during the micronization step may be the silicone derivative used together with the short ester as a binder in the composition.

In fact, the introduction of binder during the micronization stage is mainly to be preferred for safety reasons.

Such a method is particularly advantageous insofar as it makes it possible to optimize the color saturation effect provided by the dyestuffs within the composition.

The method according to the invention also has the advantage of giving the composition a smaller and more uniform particle size. This particle size results for the user in improved touch qualities of the composition, in particular an increase in the softness and the creamy sensation when touching and during the application of the composition. The compaction of the composition as well as the appearance of the cup are further improved and the composition thus obtained is more homogeneous and has a finer texture.

According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a process for making up a keratinous material, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the surface to be made up a composition according to the invention.

As stated above, the invention is based in particular on the use, as binder, of at least one short ester.

For the purposes of the invention, "effective amount as binder" means the necessary and sufficient amount of short ester (s), if appropriate associated with at least one silicone derivative to ensure, in the case compact powders, the cohesion of all the particles, and, in the case of free powders, a homogeneous appearance, fluidized and not conducive to the formation of particle aggregates.

The composition may contain from 0.5 to 100% of binder and, according to one aspect of the invention, contain more particularly from 1 to 50%, in particular from 2 to 15%, in particular from 3 to 11%, more particularly from 4 to 9%, for example from 4.5 to 8%, even from 5 to 7% by weight of binder relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the binder comprises, as single compound, one or more short ester (s), the above percentages apply to the amount of ester (s) short (s).

I - ESTER COURT

For the purposes of the invention, "short ester" refers to esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.

The esters according to the invention may be monoesters, diesters or polyesters and are more particularly monoesters.

où R₁ représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 7 à 19 atomes de carbone, comprenant éventuellement une ou plusieurs double liaisons éthyléniques, et éventuellement substitué.Advantageously, said ester corresponds to the following formula (I): $${\mathrm{R}}_1-\mathrm{VS}\mathrm{O}-\mathrm{O}-{\mathrm{R}}_{\mathrm{two}}\left(\mathrm{I}\right)$$

where R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.

R ₂ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.

By "optionally substituted" is meant that R ₁ and R ₂ may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy and hydroxyl.

Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of R ₁ + R ₂ is greater than or equal to 9.

More particularly, the groups R ₁ and R ₂ are such that the corresponding ester is non-volatile.

R ₁ may represent the residue of a fatty acid, preferably greater, linear or preferably branched comprising from 1 to 40 and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R ₂ may represent a linear or preferably branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 40, preferably 3 to 30 and more preferably 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Again, preferably, the number of carbon atoms of R ₁ + R ₂ greater than or equal to 9.

Examples of R ₁ groups are those derived from fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic acids. , linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of esters which can be used in the binder of the compositions of the invention are, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example fatty alcohols.

More particularly, the short esters according to the invention are C ₉ to C ₄₀ and in particular C ₁₀ to C ₂₅ and more particularly C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ .

Advantageously, the esters are chosen from compounds of the formula (I) above, in which R ₁ represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 atoms carbon, and more preferably from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.

• le néopentanoate d'isodécyle,
• l'isononanoate d'isononyle,
• l'octanoate de cétostéaryle,
• le myristate d'isopropyle,
• le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle,
• le stéarate d'octyl 2-dodécyle,
• l'érucate d'octyl 2-dodécyle,
• l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, et leurs mélanges.

Preferably, R ₁ is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and R ₂ is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 11 carbon atoms. The short ester will preferably be selected from the following compounds:

• isodecyl neopentanoate,
• isononyl isononanoate,
• cetostearyl octanoate,
• isopropyl myristate,
• 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
• octyl 2-dodecyl stearate,
• octyl 2-dodecyl erucate,
• isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

Isodecyl neopentanoate is particularly advantageous for obtaining compositions having very satisfactory visual and tactile qualities.

As specified above, the inventors have found that the use of at least one ester as a binder is particularly advantageous to ensure powder compositions, a small particle size. In the particular case of compact powders, this particle size is advantageously preserved even after unpacking.

Thus, in the particular case of a compact powder, this composition may have, after decompacting, a particle size (D50) ranging from 6 to 12 μm, in particular ranging from 7 to 10.5 μm, with (D50) corresponding to the size. of particle defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than (D50).

The polydispersity may be less than 2, in particular less than 1.8, in particular less than 1.6.

avec (D90) correspondant à la taille de particule définie de telle sorte que 90 % en volume des particules ont une taille inférieure à (D90), (D10) correspondant à la taille de particule définie de telle sorte que 10 % en volume des particules ont une taille inférieure à (D10) et (D50) tel que défini précédemment.Polydispersity means the value of the ratio $\frac{\left(D90\right)-\left(D10\right)}{\left(D50\right)},$

with (D90) corresponding to the particle size defined such that 90% by volume of the particles have a size less than (D90), (D10) corresponding to the particle size defined such that 10% by volume of the particles are smaller than (D10) and (D50) as previously defined.

The average volume size can be assessed by a laser granulometer, such as, for example, the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 or the Broockhaven Instrument Corporation BI90 +.

• Le produit compacté est cassé à l'aide d'une spatule au dessus d'un tamis possédant une maille de 250µ. Les agrégats de poudre obtenus sont ensuite tamisés. Le tout est récupéré et les caractéristiques granulométriques déterminées avec le granulomètre Malvern.

This granulometry measurement may in particular be carried out according to the following protocol:

• The compacted product is broken with a spatula over a sieve with a mesh size of 250μ. The resulting powder aggregates are then sieved. The whole is recovered and the grain size characteristics determined with the Malvern granulometer.

As previously stated, the short ester is present in the composition in an amount sufficient to provide a binder function therein. For obvious reasons, this amount is likely to vary significantly depending on the nature of the short ester.

By way of nonlimiting illustration, the binder of the composition may advantageously comprise from 2 to 100% by weight, preferably from 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 75% by weight of short ester (s) ( s).

He - SILICONE DERIVE

According to a particular aspect of the invention, the binder associates at least one short ester with at least one silicone derivative.

Advantageously, the weight ratio ester (s) short (s) / derivative (s) silicone (s) may be greater than or equal to 1, especially greater than 1.5, more particularly still greater than 2.

The term "silicone derivative" encompasses all of the silicone-containing compounds belonging respectively to the family of silicone oils, to the family of silicone resins, to the family of silicone waxes and to the family of silicone gums.

In a first variant of the invention, the binder may combine with at least one short ester, at least two silicone derivatives belonging to the same family, for example two silicone oils.

In another variant of the invention, the binder may combine with at least one short ester, at least two silicone derivatives belonging to two distinct families, for example a silicone oil and a silicone resin.

1) Silicone oil

According to a variant of the invention, the binder comprises, in addition to at least one short ester, at least one silicone oil.

The silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils include the compounds listed in Table 1 below.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols, alkylmethicone copolyols, cetyldimethicone, silicones containing alkylglyceryl ether groups, silicones with side amines and dilauroyltrimethylolpropane siloxysilicate. The alkyl groups of these oils have in particular from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the binder of the invention, which contains at least one short ester, may in particular be non-volatile, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, fluoro silicones with group (s) during (s) or end of chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms all or part of the hydrogen atoms is substituted by fluorine atoms, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the volatile oils have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mm of Hg (2.66 Pa at 40 ° C.) at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). 000 Pa) and better ranging from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The non-volatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).

The silicone oils have a viscosity preferably chosen in the range of from 5 to 800,000 cSt at 25 ° C, preferably from 10 to 500,000 cSt, and more preferably from 10 to 5,000 cSt. <u> Table 1 </ u> Compound Flash point (° C) Viscosity (cSt) octyl trimethicone 93 1.2 hexyl trimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) 72 4.2 Octamethylcyclo tetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4) 55 2.5 Dodecamethylcyclo hexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 63 1.7 KF 96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 56 1.5 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning 87 two PDMS DC 200 (5 cSt) from Dow Corning 134 5 PDMS DC 200 (3 cSt) from Dow Corning 102 3

In other words, the volatile silicone oil (s) can be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of the compounds of Table 1, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polymethylketyldimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile silicone oil may also be chosen from the group of fluorinated silicone oils such as silicones with alkyl and perfluoroalkyl groups, silicones with oxyethylenated / oxypropylene (EO / PP) and perfluorinated side groups, and silicones with perfluorinated side groups or polyfluorinated and glycerolated side groups, and perfluoroalkylmethylphenylsiloxanes, these oils having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.02 mm Hg.

According to one aspect of the invention, the binder advantageously contains from 0.5 to 98% of silicone oil, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, better still from 20 to 30% by weight. % in weight.

Silicone oils are particularly suitable for polydimethylsiloxanes which make it possible to obtain the desired characteristics for the composition.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the binder comprises from 50 to 80% of short ester (s) and from 20 to 50% of silicone oil (s).

For example, a binder based on isodecyl neopentanoate with polydimethylsiloxane is particularly advantageous.

2) Silicone resins

According to a variant of the invention, the binder comprises, in addition to at least one short ester, at least one silicone derivative of which at least one silicone resin.

The silicone resins that can be used in the context of the invention are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO _1/2 , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH ₃ ) SiO _3/2 , in which the silicon atom is connected to three oxygen atoms.

In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO _4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of hanging chains.

• les siloxysilicates qui peuvent être des triméthylsiloxysilicate de formule (II) :
  
           [(CH₃)₃-i-O]_x-(SiO_4/2)_y     (II)
  
  (unités MQ) dans laquelle x et y sont des entiers allant de 50 à 80,
• les polysilesquioxanes de formule (CH₃SiO_3/2)_.x (unités T) dans laquelle x est supérieur à 100 et dont au moins un des radicaux méthyle peut être substitué par un groupement R tel que défini plus haut,
• les polyméthylsilsesquioxanes qui sont des polysilsesquioxanes dans lesquels aucun des radicaux méthyle n'est substitué par un autre groupement. De tels polymethylsilsesquioxanes sont décrits dans le document US 5,246,694 dont le contenu est incorporé par référence.

By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of:

• siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula (II):
  
  [(CH ₃ ) ₃ -iO] _x - (SiO _4/2 ) _y (II)
  
  (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80,
• polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH ₃ SiO _3/2 ) _.x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above,
• polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

• par la société WACKER sous la référence RESIN MK tels que la BELSIL PMS MK : polymère comprenant des unités répétitives CH₃SiO_3/2 (unités T), pouvant aussi comprendre jusqu'à 1% en poids d'unités (CH₃)₂SiO_2/2 (unités D) et présentant un poids moléculaire moyen d'environ 10000,
• par la société SHIN-ETSU sous les références KR-220L qui sont composé d'unités T de formule CH₃SiO_3/2 et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH (silanol), sous la référence KR-242A qui comprennent 98% d'unités T et 2% d'unités diméthyle D et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH ou encore sous la référence KR-251 comprenant 88 % d'unités T et 12 % d'unités dimethyl D et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed:

• by the company WACKER under the reference RESIN MK such as BELSIL PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH ₃ SiO _3/2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000,
• by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH ₃ SiO _3/2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% d T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. .

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

Among the silicone resins, trimethylsiloxysilicate is particularly advantageous in the context of the invention.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the binder comprises between 50 and 80% by weight of short esters, between 20 and 50% of a silicone oil and between 0 and 30% of a silicone resin.

In another embodiment according to the invention, the binder comprises between 60 and 99.95% of short ester and 0.05 to 40% of a silicone resin.

For example, particularly suitable for the invention, a binder associating with isodecyl neopentanoate, polydimethylsiloxane and trimethylsiloxy silicate.

3) Silicone waxes

According to a variant of the invention the binder comprises, in addition to at least one short ester, at least one silicone derivative of which at least one silicone wax.

dans lesquelles chaque substituant R est un groupement alkyle inférieur (ayant 1 à 6 carbones), chaque R' représente indépendamment un alkyle (linéaire ou ramifié) éventuellement insaturé, ayant 6-30 atomes de carbone, ou bien un groupement -X-R", chaque X représente indépendamment :

• -O-,
• (CH₂)_a-O-CO,
• (CH₂)_b-CO-O,
• a et b représentent indépendamment des nombres pouvant varier de 0 à 6, et chaque R" représente indépendamment un groupement alkyle, éventuellement insaturé, ayant 6 à 30 atomes de carbone,
• m est un nombre pouvant varier de 0 à 400, et en particulier de 0 à 100,
• n est un nombre pouvant varier de 1 à 200, et en particulier de 1 à 100,
• la somme (m + n) étant inférieure à 400, et en particulier inférieure ou égale à 100.

The silicone waxes that can be used in the fatty binder of the present invention are substituted polysiloxanes that are solid or liquid at room temperature. They are preferably fluids or solids with a low melting point. These include substituted linear polysiloxanes consisting essentially of (end groups apart) of units of formulas III and IV, in the respective molar proportions m and n:

wherein each R substituent is a lower alkyl group (having 1 to 6 carbons), each R 'independently represents optionally unsaturated (linear or branched) alkyl having 6-30 carbon atoms, or a -XR "group, each X independently represents:

• O-,
• (CH ₂ ) _a -O-CO,
• (CH ₂ ) _b -CO-O,
• a and b independently represent numbers ranging from 0 to 6, and each R "independently represents an optionally unsaturated alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
• m is a number ranging from 0 to 400, and in particular from 0 to 100,
• n is a number ranging from 1 to 200, and in particular from 1 to 100,
• the sum (m + n) being less than 400, and in particular less than or equal to 100.

These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800®, 9801® or 9810® (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910® and KF7002® (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3® and 176-11481® (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

Among these silicone waxes, polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane is particularly suitable in the context of the invention.

• R est défini comme précédemment,
• R₁ représente un groupement alkyle de 1 à 30 C, un groupement alcoxy de 6 à 30 C ou un groupement de formule :
  
• R₂ représente un groupement alkyle de 6 à 30 C, un groupement alcoxy ayant de 6 à 30 C ou un groupement de formule :
  
• a et b représentant un nombre de 0 à 6,
• R" étant un alkyle de C₆ à C₃₀, et
• z est un nombre pouvant varier de 1 à 100.
  Parmi les cires de silicone de formule V, qui sont des produits connus ou pouvant être préparés selon les méthodes connues, on citera notamment les produits commerciaux suivants : Abilwax 2428® , 2434® et 2440® (GOLDSCHMIDT), ou VP 1622® et VP 1621® (WACKER).
  Dans une réalisation particulièrement avantageuse, le liant comprend de 50 à 80 % en poids d'ester(s) court(s), de 10 à 50 % d'huile(s) siliconée(s), de 0 à 20 % de résine(s) de silicone et de 0 à 20 % de cire(s) de silicone.
  Dans une autre réalisation conforme à l'invention, le liant comprend de 60 à 99,95 % d'ester(s) court(s) et de 0,05 à 40 % de cire(s) siliconée(s). Par exemple, convient tout particulièrement à l'invention, un liant associant à du néopentanoate d'isodécyle, de la polydiméthylsiloxane, du triméthylsiloxy silicate et de la polyméthylcétyl diméthylsiloxane.

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be chosen from compounds of formula V:

R ₁ -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -O-] _z -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -R ₂ (V)

in which

• R is defined as before,
• R ₁ represents an alkyl group of 1 to 30 C, an alkoxy group of 6 to 30 C or a group of formula:
  
• R ₂ represents an alkyl group of 6 to 30 C, an alkoxy group having from 6 to 30 C or a group of formula:
  
• a and b representing a number from 0 to 6,
• R "is C ₆ to C ₃₀ alkyl, and
• z is a number ranging from 1 to 100.
  Among the silicone waxes of formula V, which are known or can be prepared according to the known methods, mention will be made in particular of the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428®, 2434® and 2440® (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622® and VP 1621® (WACKER).
  In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the binder comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of short ester (s), from 10 to 50% of silicone oil (s), from 0 to 20% of resin (s) silicone and 0 to 20% silicone wax (es).
  In another embodiment according to the invention, the binder comprises from 60 to 99.95% of short ester (s) and from 0.05 to 40% of silicone wax (es). For example, a binder combining with isodecyl neopentanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxy silicate and polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane is particularly suitable for the invention.

4) Silicone gums

According to a variant of the invention, the binder comprises, in addition to at least one short ester, at least one silicone derivative of which at least one silicone gum.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the present invention are polysiloxanes having high molecular weights, for example ranging from 200,000 to 1,000,000. They are used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen especially from polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS) and polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS). They are also known and marketed products or can be prepared according to known methods. Mention may be made more particularly of the following silicone gums: polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane and polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane. Among the commercial silicone gums, mention may be made of those sold under the names SE30 (General Electric), TP 232 (Union Carbide), Q2-1403 (Dow Corning), or the VISCASIL series (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

III- PULVERULENT PHASE

The pulverulent phase, generally present in the composition according to the invention, comprises at least one inorganic or spherical or lamellar organic filler, generally associated with at least one inorganic dyestuff, in particular of the pigment type.

The compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.5 to 99.5% by weight of pulverulent phase, and according to one aspect of the invention may contain more particularly from 75 to 98% of pulverulent phase, in particular from 85 to 97% by weight. in particular from 90 to 96%, even from 93 to 95% by weight of powdery filler.

1. Charges

The fillers can be mineral or organic. The fillers may be particles of any shape, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

• les microbilles de résine de silicone (TOSPEARLS® de TOSHIBA, par exemple),
• les oxychlorures de bismuth, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite.
• les microsphères de silice creuses, (telles que les 'SILICA BEADS SB 700/HA® ' ou 'SILICA BEADS SB 700® ' de la société MAPRECOS, les 'SUNSPHERES H-33® ' et les 'SUNSPHERES H-51® ' de la société ASAHI GLASS),
• les microsphères de polymères acryliques, (telles que celles en copolymère d'acrylate réticulé 'POLYTRAP 6603 ADSORBER® ' de la société RP SCHERRER, et celles de polyméthacrylate de méthyle 'MICROPEARL M 100® ' de la société SEPPIC),
• les poudres de polyuréthane (telle que la poudre de copolymère de diisocyanate d'hexaméthylène et de triméthylol hexyl lactone vendue sous la dénomination « PLASTIC POWDER D-400® » par la société TOSHIKI),
• les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique,
• les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, notamment de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, par exemple le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium,
• les microcapsules de polymères ou de copolymères d'acrylate ou de méthacrylate de méthyle, ou encore de copolymères de chlorure de vinylidène et d'acrylonitrile, comme 1' « EXPANCEL® » de la société EXPANCEL ;
• les poudres d'organopolysiloxane réticulés élastomères, telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination « TREFIL POWDER E-506C» par la société DOW CORNING,
• les poudres d'organopolysiloxane réticulé élastomère enrobée de résine de silicone, telles que celles vendues sous les dénomination "KSP-100", "KSP-101 ", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", KSP-104", "KSP-105" par la société SHIN ETSU, et
• leurs mélanges.

Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of talc, natural or synthetic mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, the polymer powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, acrylic acid polymer powders,

• silicone resin microbeads (for example, TOSHIBA TOSPEARLS®),
• bismuth oxychlorides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite.
• hollow silica microspheres (such as the 'SILICA BEADS SB 700 / HA®' or 'SILICA BEADS SB 700®' from the company MAPRECOS, the 'SUNSPHERES H-33®' and the 'SUNSPHERES H-51®' from the company ASAHI GLASS),
• microspheres of acrylic polymers (such as those of crosslinked acrylate copolymer 'POLYTRAP 6603 ADSORBER®' from the company RP SCHERRER, and those of polymethyl methacrylate 'MICROPEARL M 100®' from the company SEPPIC),
• polyurethane powders (such as the copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the name "Plastic Powder D-400®" by Toshiki),
• microcapsules of glass or ceramics,
• metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate,
• microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylate or methyl methacrylate, or copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile, such as EXPANCEL® from EXPANCEL;
• elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders, such as those sold under the name TREFIL POWDER E-506C by the company Dow Corning,
• elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, such as those sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", KSP-104 "," KSP-105 "by SHIN ETSU, and
• their mixtures.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one spherical organic filler, in particular chosen from those mentioned above. It can in particular be polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, starch, polymeric microspheres such as those of chloride polyvinylidene / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), and organopolysiloxanes elastomers.

2. Inorganic or organic coloring matter

The pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may advantageously contain at least one pulverulent dyestuff which may be chosen from the pigments and pearlescent agents normally used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made in particular of inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The pulverulent dyestuff may generally be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 35% by weight, especially from 1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

IV- PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT

By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials and particularly to the skin of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the skin on which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, in particular in the form of a compact powder or free under atmospheric pressure.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a free, compact powder form.

In addition to the abovementioned compounds, the composition according to the invention may comprise non-silicone derivatives such as non-silicone oils and / or non-silicone solid fatty substances.

It is understood that the presence of these compounds in the composition according to the invention should not be detrimental to the manifestation of the expected qualities in terms of comfort of application and aesthetic effect provided by the presence of the short ester optionally associated with a silicone derivative.

1. Non-silicone oil

The volatile non-silicone oils can be chosen from the group of hydrocarbon oils and volatile esters and ethers such as volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane, and C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoparaffins.

The volatile non-silicone oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils.

By way of example of volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of Table 2 which follows. <u> Table 2 </ u> Compound Flash point (° C) isododecane 43 isohexadecane 102 n-butyl ether propylene glycol 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (isoparaffin C11-C13) 62 Isopar H (isoparaffin C11-C12) 56

• les huiles végétales hydrocarbonées à forte teneur en triglycérides constitués d'esters d'acides gras et de glycérol dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaînes variées, ces dernières pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiées, saturées ou insaturées ; ces huiles sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de maïs, de tournesol, de karité, de ricin, d'amandes douces, de macadamia, d'abricot, de soja, de colza, de coton, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, d'avocat, de noisette, de pépins de raisin ou de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, d'olive, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ; ou encore les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearines Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel,
• les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone,
• les alcools gras en C₈ à C₂₆ comme l'alcool oléique ou l'octyldodécanol,
• les acides gras comme l'acide oléique, linoléique ou linolénique, et
• leurs mélanges.

The composition may also contain at least one polar oil such as:

• hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearines Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,
• synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
• C ₈ to C ₂₆ fatty alcohols, such as oleic alcohol or octyldodecanol,
• fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid, and
• their mixtures.

It may also contain one or more apolar oils such as hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons, linear or branched, of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not, such as volatile paraffin oils (such as isoparaffins, isododecane) or nonvolatiles and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polyisobutene hydrogenated such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

2. Non-silicone solid fatty substance

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one non-silicone solid fatty substance, which may be chosen from waxes and pasty compounds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 120 ° C.

By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it miscible with the oils that may be present and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the mixture is obtained. wax in the oils of the mixture. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the colorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The wax may also have a hardness of from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

As waxes that may be used in the first composition of the invention, mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or Fischer Tropsch waxes.

The compositions may also contain a micronized wax, also called micro wax.

As micro-waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that sold under the name "MicroCare 350®" by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax waxes such as the product marketed under the name "MicroEase 114S®" by the company MICRO POWDERS, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the denominations of "Micro Care 300®" and "310®" by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name "Micro Care 325®" by the MICRO POWDERS company, polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names "Micropoly 200®", "220®", "220L®" and "250S®" by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those marketed under the names "Microslip 519®" and "519 L®" by the company Micro Powders.

Among the micro-waxes mentioned above, some such as, for example, carnauba micro wax, "MicroEase 114S" synthetic wax wax, or micro wax consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and "MicroCare 325" synthetic wax. have an initial melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

• la lanoline et ses dérivés,
• les composés fluorés polymères ou non,
• les polymères vinyliques, notamment :
  • les homopolymères d'oléfines,
  • les copolymères d'oléfines,
  • les homopolymères et copolymères de diènes hydrogénés,
  • les oligomères linéaires ou ramifiés, homo ou copolymères de (méth)acrylates d'alkyles ayant de préférence un groupement alkyle en C8-C30,
  • les oligomères homo et copolymères d'esters vinyliques ayant des groupements alkyles en C8-C30,
  • les oligomères homo et copolymères de vinyléthers ayant des groupements alkyles en C8-C30,
• les polyéthers liposolubles résultant de la polyéthérification entre un ou plusieurs diols en C2-C100, de préférence en C2-C50,
• les esters,
• et leurs mélanges.

These compositions may further contain at least one pasty compound, which may advantageously be chosen from:

• lanolin and its derivatives,
• polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,
• vinyl polymers, in particular:
  • homopolymers of olefins,
  • olefin copolymers,
  • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,
  • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,
  • homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups,
  • homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups,
• liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,
• the esters,
• and their mixtures.

• les esters d'un glycérol oligomère, notamment les esters de diglycérol, en particulier les condensats d'acide adipique et de glycérol, pour lesquels une partie des groupes hydroxyles des glycérols ont réagi avec un mélange d'acides gras tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide caprique, l'acide stéarique et l'acide isostéarique et l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique, à l'image notamment de ceux commercialisé sous la marque Softisan 649 par la société Sasol
• le propionate d'arachidyle commercialisé sous la marque Waxenol 801 par Alzo,
• les esters de phytostérol,
• les triglycérides d'acides gras et leurs dérivés,
• les esters de pentaérythritol,
• et leurs mélanges.

Among the esters, it is particularly preferred:

• esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid; , capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol
• arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
• the phytosterol esters,
• triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,
• pentaerythritol esters,
• and their mixtures.

Among the pasty compounds of vegetable origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5 PO), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen.

The composition may also comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as, for example, water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, thickeners, water , surfactants, gelling agents and / or perfumes.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition.

The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a compact or free powder-like makeup product, in particular a blush, an eyeshadow, a powder for the face, a foundation, a concealer product, a body makeup product, or in the form of a facial care product or a body care product.

The following examples illustrate the invention. In these examples, the amounts of the various ingredients are given in part by weight.

Examples 1 to 4

Preparation of a foundation comprising in percentages by weight: Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl isobutyl / 2-phenoxyethanol P-hydroxybenzoate mixture (PHENONIP from the company NIPA 5CLARIANT) 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% Titanium dioxide 0,00% 2.00% 2.00% 2.00% Yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492) 1.90% 1.90% 2.20% 1.90% Brown iron oxides, yellow (75/25) (CI: 77491 + 77492) 0.80% 0.80% 1.00% 0.80% Black iron oxide (CI: 77499) 0.35% 0.35% 0.80% 0.35% Nylon powder 12 (ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS 204 from the company ARKEMA) 20.00% 20.00% 20.00% 20.00% Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 10 cst) (FLUID DC 200 10 CS from the company Dow Corning) 1.23% 1.23% 1.23% 1.23% Polydimethylsiloxane / trimethylsiloxy silicate mixture (DOW CORNING 593 FLUID from the company Dow Corning) 0.39% 0.39% 0.39% 0.39% Polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane (MW: 900 - viscosity: 15/25 cst) (ABIL WAX 9801 from GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.24% 0.24% 0.24% 0.24% Mica (CI: 77019) 20.00% 20.00% 30.00% 20.00% Tri-iso-cetyl citrate (CITMOL 316 from BERNEL CHEMICAL 5ALZO) 0.10% 0.10% 0.10% 0.10% Bismuth oxychloride (CI: 77163) 10.00% 10.00% 0,00% 10.00% Talc 36.35% 34.35% 33.40% 34.35% Magnesium stearate 4.00% 4.00% 4.00% 4.00% Deodorized isodecyl neopentanoate (DUB VCI 10 from STERINERIE DUBOIS) 4.05% 4.05% 4.05% 2.05% ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 0.00% 0.00% 0.00% 2.00%

Claims (22)

Powdered cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an amount effective as binder of at least one short ester and of at least one silicone derivative, the mass content of short ester (s) (s) being greater than the mass content of silicone derivative (s). Powdered cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an amount effective as binder of at least one short ester and at least one silicone derivative, said amount being less than 8% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. A pulverulent cosmetic composition, in particular for making up the skin, characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least: an amount effective as binder of at least one short ester and at least 15% by weight of at least one spherical organic filler relative to the total weight of the composition. A compacted cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium at least: a pulverulent phase, an amount effective as binder of at least one short ester,
said composition having, after unpacking, a D50 particle size, expressed in volume of less than 12 μm, and a polydispersity of less than 2. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the particle size D50 after decompaction is less than 10.5 μm. Powdered cosmetic composition comprising, as binder, at least one short ester, characterized in that it is obtained by micronization, in particular by air jet, of all of its components, said short ester being added at the end of said step of micronization, with mechanical stirring, at least 90% by weight relative to its total weight in said composition. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that it further comprises, as binder, at least one silicone derivative. Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 7, characterized in that the silicone derivative is chosen from the family of silicone oils, the family of silicone resins, the family of silicone waxes and the family of silicone gums. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least two silicone derivatives belonging to two distinct families. Composition according to Claim 8 or 9, characterized in that it comprises at least two silicone derivatives belonging to the same family. Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 7 to 10, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone oil chosen from dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyplenylmethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyltrisiloxane hexyl, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones , diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 7 to 11, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone resin chosen from trimethylsiloxy silicate and its mixtures. Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 7 to 12, characterized in that it contains at least one silicone wax chosen from polydimethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane and its mixtures. Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 7 to 13, characterized in that the weight ratio of short ester / silicone derivative (s) is greater than 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that said short ester corresponds to the following formula (I):

R ₁ -CO-OR ₂ (I)

in which : - R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted, and - R ₂ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the short esters are C ₉ to C ₄₀ and in particular C ₁₀ to C ₂₅ and more particularly C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the short ester is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate and palmitate. 2-ethylhexyl, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 and 4 to 17, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one spherical organic filler. Composition according to Claim 3 or 18, characterized in that the spherical organic filler is polyamide. Process for the preparation of a pulverulent powder composed of at least one pulverulent filler and an effective amount as binder of at least one short ester, characterized in that it comprises at least the steps of: air-micronising all the components of said powdery filler in the presence, if appropriate, of less than 10% by weight of said short ester relative to its total weight in said composition, and mixing the micronized pulverulent filler obtained at the end of the preceding stage with at least 90% by weight of the said short ester relative to its total weight in the said composition. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that all of the short ester (s) is added at the end of the first micronization stage. A process for making up a keratinous material, comprising applying to the surface to be made up a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 19.