FR2916631A1 - Powdery cosmetic composition, useful for make up of skin, comprises a binder of short chain ester, organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated by silicone resin, and filler, in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Powdery cosmetic composition comprises a binder of short chain ester; at least 15 wt.% of organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated by silicone resin; and at least 15 wt.% of filler having refraction index of >= 1.6, in a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition

  for the makeup of the skin, and a makeup process comprising the application on the skin of this composition. The makeup compositions of the skin are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the skin, especially to the face, but also to hide skin imperfections such as redness, blemishes, wrinkles.

  Some makeup compositions are in the form of loose powder or compacted powder. These compositions generally comprise a high powders content, especially at least 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Depending on the type of powders used, the cosmetic properties of the makeup product can be very variable. Indeed, certain powders such as calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium stearate or titanium dioxide give a dry, rough feel and affect the obtaining of softness properties when taking finger or spreading of the cosmetic powder on the skin. In addition, with these powdery materials, the deposition of the cosmetic powder on the skin is opaque and covering, having a pronounced powdery appearance leading to a makeup or revealing the irregularities of the relief of the skin such as microreliefs, wrinkles, fine lines . They do not allow to obtain a transparent and natural make-up. Other known methods for concealing skin defects use compositions containing elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders. These compositions optically attenuate skin imperfections such as wrinkles or fine lines. However, the results obtained with these compositions are often insufficient to effectively attenuate or mask color imperfections, such as redness or blemishes. In addition, these deformable powders have the disadvantage of weakening the compact powder that can lead to fragmentation of the product caused in particular by shocks. There is therefore a need for a make-up or skincare composition in the form of a compact powder, having a good cohesion, and in particular resistant to the drop test, and allowing a satisfactory camouflage of skin color defects, without accentuating relief defects such as wrinkles or fine lines.

  The inventors have shown that it is possible to obtain such compositions by combining a high level of elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles and particles of particular refractive index. The subject of the present invention is therefore, in a first aspect, a pulverulent cosmetic composition, in particular for making up the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: an amount effective as a binder of at least one short ester, less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler having a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6.

  The composition obtained has a fine and soft texture when taking the finger of the product. According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a process for making up a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the surface to be made up a composition according to the invention.

  Finally, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition as described above, in order to obtain a makeup that camouflages the color defects of the skin satisfactorily, without accentuating the relief defects such as wrinkles or fine lines. having a very fine and very soft texture when taking the finger or spreading the cosmetic powder on the skin and having good properties of softness to the application and comfort during the day.

  As stated above, the invention is based in particular on the use, as binder, of at least one short ester. Within the meaning of the invention, "effective amount as binder" means the necessary and sufficient amount of short ester (s), if appropriate associated with at least one silicone derivative to ensure, in the in the case of compact powders, the cohesion of all the particles, and, in the case of free powders, a homogeneous, fluidized appearance which is not conducive to the formation of aggregates of particles. The composition can comprise from 1 to 50% binder weight, in particular from 2 to 15%, in particular from 3 to 11%, even more particularly from 4 to 9%, for example from 5 to 8% by weight. When the binder comprises, as a single compound, one or more short ester (s), the aforementioned percentages apply to the amount of ester (s) short (s).

Binder

  Short ester The composition according to the invention comprises at least one short ester. For the purposes of the invention, the term "short ester" refers to the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols.

  The esters according to the invention may be monoesters, diesters or polyesters and are more particularly monoesters.

  Advantageously, said ester corresponds to the following formula (I): R, -CO-O-R2 (I)

  where R, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.

  R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted. By "optionally substituted" is meant that R 1 and R 2 may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy and hydroxyl. Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of R 1 + R 2 is greater than or equal to 9. More particularly, the groups R 1 and R 2 are such that the corresponding ester is nonvolatile. R, may represent the residue of a fatty acid, preferably higher, linear or preferably branched comprising from 1 to 40 and better still from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and R 2 may represent a linear hydrocarbon chain or preferably branched containing 1 at 40, preferably from 3 to 30 and more preferably from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Again, preferably, the number of carbon atoms of R 1 + R 2 greater than or equal to 9. Examples of R groups are those derived from fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid. , caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, eleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof. Examples of esters which can be used in the binder of the compositions of the invention are, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example fatty alcohols. More particularly, the short esters according to the invention are of CO to C40 and in particular of C 0 to C 25 and more particularly C 12 to C 20.

  Advantageously, the esters are chosen from the compounds of the formula (I) above, in which R represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, R 1 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 2 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and R 2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 15 carbon atoms. at 11 carbon atoms.

  The short ester will preferably be chosen from the following compounds: isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate 2-hexyl, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate,

octyl 2-dodecyl erucate,

  isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.

  Isodecyl neopentanoate is particularly advantageous for obtaining

  5 compositions with visual and tactile qualities very satisfactory.

  The inventors have found that the use of at least one ester as a binder is particularly advantageous to ensure that powder compositions have a small particle size. In the particular case of compact powders, this particle size is advantageously preserved even after unpacking.

  Thus, in the particular case of a compact powder, this composition may have, after unpacking, a particle size (D50) ranging from 6 to 12 m, in particular ranging from 7 to 10.5 m, with (D50) corresponding to the size of particle defined such that 50% by volume of the particles have a size less than (D50).

  The polydispersity can be less than 2. (D90) ù (D10) By polydispersity is meant the ratio value (D50), with (D90) corresponding to the defined particle size so that 90% by volume of the particles have a size less than (D90), (D10) corresponding to the particle size defined such that 10% by volume of the particles have a size less than (D10) and (D50) as defined above.

  The average volume size can be assessed by a laser granulometer, such as, for example, the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 or the Broockhaven Instrument Corporation B190 +.

  This granulometry measurement may in particular be carried out according to the following protocol: The compacted product is broken with a spatula over a sieve having a mesh of 250 m. The resulting powder aggregates are then sieved. The whole is recovered and the grain size characteristics determined with the Malvern granulometer. As previously stated, the short ester is present in the composition in an amount sufficient to provide a binder function therein. The short ester may in particular be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1 to 10% by weight.

  By way of nonlimiting illustration, the binder of the composition may advantageously comprise from 2 to 100% by weight, preferably from 50 to 100% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 75% by weight of short ester (s) ( s). Silicone oil

  According to a particular aspect of the invention, the binder associates at least one short ester with at least one silicone oil. Advantageously, the weight ratio of short ester (s) / silicone oil (s) may be between 0.5 and 3, preferably between 0.75 and 2.5, and better still between 0.75 and 2.5. at 1.5. The silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. Examples of such oils include the compounds listed in Table 1 below. The nonvolatile silicone oils may be polydimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, dimethicone copolyols, alkylmethicone copolyols, cetyldimethicone, silicones containing alkylglyceryl ether groups, silicones having pendant amine groups and dilauroyltrimethylolpropane siloxysilicate. The alkyl groups of these oils have in particular from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the binder of the invention, which contains at least one short ester, may in particular be non-volatile, linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), which are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, fluoro silicones with group (s) during (s) or end of chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms of which all or part of the hydrogen atoms is substituted by fluorine atoms, dimethiconols and mixtures thereof. Within the meaning of the invention, the volatile oils have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mmHg (2.66 Pa to 40.degree. C. at room temperature (25.degree. C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). 000 Pa) and more preferably from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa). The non-volatile oils then correspond to a vapor pressure of less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa).

  The silicone oils may have a viscosity selected in the range of from 0.5 to 5800,000 cSt at 25 ° C, preferably from 1 to 500,000 cSt, and more preferably from 2 to 5,000 cSt.

  Table 1 Compound Flash point Viscosity (C) (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1,2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1,2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4,2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclo 55 2,5 tetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D5) 93 7 Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane ( D6) 63 1.7 Shin Etsu decamethyl tetrasiloxane (L4) KF 96 A 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 56 1.5 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (5 cSt) 87 2 Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (3 cSt) 134 5 from Dow Corning 102 3 In other words, the volatile silicone oil (s) can (vent) be selected, for example, from the group consisting of the compounds of Table 1, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, polymethylcetyldimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof. The volatile silicone oil may also be chosen from the group of fluorinated silicone oils such as silicones with alkyl and perfluoroalkyl groups, silicones with oxyethylenated / oxypropylene (EO / PP) and perfluorinated side groups, and silicones with perfluorinated side groups or polyfluorinated and glycerolated side groups, and perfluoroalkylmethylphenylsiloxanes, these oils having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.02 mm Hg. According to one aspect of the invention, the silicone oil is present in a content ranging from at 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the binder, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 55% by weight.

  Silicone oils are particularly suitable for polydimethylsiloxanes which make it possible to obtain the desired characteristics for the composition. According to one particular embodiment, a binder based on isodecyl neopentanoate with polydimethylsiloxane is particularly advantageous.

Non-silicone oil

  In addition to the short ester previously described, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile non-silicone oil. The volatile non-silicone oils may be chosen from the group of hydrocarbon oils and volatile esters and ethers such as volatile hydrocarbons such as isododecane and isohexadecane, and C8-C16 isoparaffins.

  The volatile non-silicone oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils. By way of example of volatile non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the compounds of Table 2 which follows. Table 2 Compound Flash Point (C) Isododecane 43 Isohexadecane 102 propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (C11-C13 isoparaffin) Isopar H (C11-C12 isoparaffin) 62 The composition may also contain at least one polar oil such as: hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, of pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearines Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, C 8 to C 26 fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol or octyldodecanol, fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. It may also contain one or more apolar oils such as hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons, linear or branched, of synthetic or mineral origin, volatile or not, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof.

  Powder Phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent phase comprising at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin and at least 15% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler having a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6.

  Oranopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin

  The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with a silicone resin.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is spherical.

  The elastomeric organopolysiloxane is advantageously crosslinked and may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

  Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C2) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A2) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).

  The compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes and dimethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers. methylphenylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphénylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end diméthylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane 25 comprising trimethylsiloxy endings, methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

  The compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogens in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A2). Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A2) and the number of silicum-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of the compound (B2) is at least 4. The compound (B2) may be any molecular structure, in particular of linear chain structure, branched chain, cyclic structure. The compound (B2) can have a viscosity at 25C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (A). It is advantageous that the compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. The compound (B2) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.

  Compound (C2) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.

  The catalyst (C2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and ( B2).

  Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, a mercapto group.

  Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is non-emulsifying.

  The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

  Spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are described in particular in applications JP-A-61-194009, EP-A-242219, EP-A-295886 and EP-A-765656, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  As elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, those sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder", "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning can be used; these powders are INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with silicone resin.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US5538793, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. Such elastomeric powder coated with silicone resin is sold, for example, under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", KSP-104 "," KSP-105. by the company Shin Etsu, and are INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer Such powders meet the INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and in particular vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.

  According to another particular embodiment, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; Hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness less than or equal to 80 (in particular ranging from 5 to 80), and preferably less than or equal to 65 (in particular ranging from 5 to 65). The hardness JIS-A is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may have an average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μm, preferably from 1 to 200 μm and better still from 2 to 20 μm. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous, and preferably of spherical shape. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise an elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, in a content ranging from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 17% to 25% by weight.

  Lamellar charge with a refractive index greater than 1.6 The pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lamellar charge having a refractive index greater than 1.6. In particular, the refractive index of the lamellar filler can range from 1.6 to 2.5, preferably from 1.65 to 2.4 and better still from 1.7 to 2.2.

  The lamellar filler used according to the invention may be in the form of particles having an average size greater than or equal to 1 micron, preferably ranging from 1 micron to 30 microns, and especially ranging from 2 m to 10 m. As lamellar filler, it is possible in particular to use:

  boron nitride, and in particular those sold under the names "Ceram Blanche 1", "Ceram Blanche" by the company MIZUSHIMA FERROALLOY, PUHP 3008 and 20 PUH 1030L by the company Saint Gobain or SOFT TOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058 by the General Electrics Advanced Materials company

  bismuth oxychloride and in particular those sold under the names PEARL GLO, PEARL-GLO UVR PG1086, PEARL-GLO SF PG 1099, PEARL-GLO T UVR and BIJU ULTRA UFC by ENGELHARD or those sold under the name BIRON ESQ and BIRON LF-2000 from MERCK

  barium sulphate and in particular those sold under the names SA-BARIUM SULFATE HM by MIYOSHI KASEI, BARIUM SULFATE by the company FUSHIMI PHARMACEUTICAL, BARIUM SULFATE BAI25 by SPECTRUM CHEMICAL, LLD-5 BASO4 (PL) by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO Company, FLAKE SHAPED BARIUM SULFATE HP and FLAKE SHAPED BARIUM SULFATE H from the company SAKAI CHEMICAL and LOW PIGMENT LIGHT by the company MERCK .15 -the multilayer particles talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica, especially those marketed under the designation COVERLEAF AR 80 by the company CATALYST & CHEMICALS, - and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the lamellar filler is boron nitride.

  The lamellar filler may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 15% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 18% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The pulverulent phase may comprise, in addition to the previously mentioned lamellar fillers, other fillers, which may be mineral or synthetic, as well as pigments.

  The fillers may be mineral or organic, of any form, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example leaflet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

  Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may notably be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica or alumino silicate, which may be chosen from muscovite, phlogopite, tiotite, sericite, lepidolite, paragonite. margarite, roscoelite, artificial or synthetic mica having a fluorine atom substituting the hydroxyl group of natural mica, and the cooked or calcined products of these micas, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders, of poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), polystyrene powders, polyester powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, acrylic acid polymer powders, oxides zinc and titanium, oxides of zirconium or cerium, hydroxyapatite, silicone resin microspheres (TOSHIBA TOSPEARLS, for example), hollow silica microspheres (such as SILICA BEADS SB 700 / HA ' or 'SILICA BEADS SB 700' from the company MAPRECOS, the 'SUNSPHERES H-33' and the 'SUNSPHERES H-51' from the company ASAHI GLASS), the microspheres of acrylic polymers (such as those in crosslinked acrylate copolymer 'POLYTRAP 6603 ADSORBER' from the company RP SCHERRER, and those of polymethyl methacrylate 'MICROPEARL M 100' from the company SEPPIC), polyurethane powders (such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder sold under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 8 by TOSHIKI), microcapsules of glass or ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylate or of methyl methacrylate, or of copolyamines. copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile, such as EXPANCEL from EXPANCEL, and mixtures thereof.

  The additional fillers may be present in the composition in a proportion of 10 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 30 to 60% by weight. powder of the composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff which may be chosen from pigments, nacres, and their mixture.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made in particular of inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres may be chosen from white salt-bearing pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The pulverulent dyestuff may generally be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 35% by weight, especially from 1 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may be present in a content ranging from 30 to 99.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 50 to 97% by weight, in particular from 75 to 95% by weight. weight.

  Additional elastomeric organopolysiloxane

  In addition to the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  The additional elastomeric organopolysiloxanes may be spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles not coated with a silicone resin. The additional elastomeric organopolysiloxanes may also be elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles transported in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers conveyed in gel form are in particular described in the patents US4970252, US4987169, US 5412004, US5654362, US5760116, in the application JP-A-61-194009.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers which may be used are those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44" by the company Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC9041", "DC 9509", " DC 9505 "," DC 9506 "by Dow Corning," GRANSIL "by Grant Industries," SFE 839 "by General Electric.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer transported in gel form. By emulsifying silicone elastomer is meant a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers.

  Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. As the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer, those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32 "," KSG-33 "," can be used. KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, X-226146 by Shin Etsu, DC9010, DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

  The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. Such elastomers are described in particular in the patent application WO2004 / 024798.

  As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830", "KSG-840" by the company Shin Etsu can be used.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organopolysiloxane spherical elastomer coated with silicone resin and at least one additional uncoated spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxane. In particular, the additional spherical elastomer organopolysiloxane may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. .

  Cosmetically acceptable medium "Physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials and particularly to the skin of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the skin on which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged, especially in the form of a compact powder or free under atmospheric pressure. Thus, the compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a free, compact powder type form. In addition to the abovementioned compounds, the composition according to the invention can comprise non-silicone derivatives such as non-silicone oils and / or body non-silicone solid fats. It is understood that the presence of these compounds in the composition according to the invention should not be detrimental to the manifestation of the expected qualities in terms of comfort of application and aesthetic effect provided by the presence of the short ester optionally associated with a silicone derivative.

  Additional Cosmetic Ingredients The composition may also comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics such as, for example, water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring agents, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, thickeners, water, surfactants, gelling agents and / or perfumes.

  Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition. The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a compact or free powder-type make-up product, in particular a blush, an eyeshadow, a powder for the face, a foundation, a concealer product, a body make-up product, or in the form of a facial care product or a body care product.

Hardness measurement

  According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may have a hardness such that the penetration force is less than or equal to 500 g, in particular is between 250 g and 500 g, in particular between 250 g and 450 g. and more preferably between 200 g and 400 g. The hardness of the composition according to the invention can be measured according to the following protocol. 6.5 g of pulverulent composition according to the present application is compacted in a rectangular cup 4.7 cm long and 3.9 cm wide, and high. 0.5 cm under a pressure of 250 bar. The penetration force is then measured on the composition using a texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with the cylindrical measuring device P / 2 of 2 mm in diameter, using the conditions of following measurements: Trigger force = 1.0 g Pre-speed = 1.0 mm / s Penetration rate = 1.0 mm / s Post-velocity = 2 mm / s Depth of penetration = 2 mm Position: 1 measurement in the center of the cup Number of cups: 3 Temperature 20 C The force of penetration expressed in grams force is read on the device. The measurement is repeated 3 times to calculate a penetration force average established on the basis of these 3 samples.

  The following examples illustrate the invention. In these examples, the amounts of the various ingredients are given in part by weight.

Examples 1 and 2 Two foundations were prepared having the following compositions: Example 1 Example 2 (wt%) (wt.%) Mixture Methyl P-hydroxybenzoates, ethyl, 0.80 0.80 propyl, butyl isobutyl / 2-phenoxy ethanol (PHENONIP from NIPA CLARIANT) Titanium dioxide 1.94 1.94 Iron oxide yellow 1.26 1.26 Iron oxide red 1.28 1.28 Iron oxide black 0.40 0 , 40 boron nitride 19.42 19.42 (PUHP 3008 by the company SAINT GOBAIN CERAMICS) Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 cst) 3.46 3.46 (FLUID DC 200 5 CS from the company Dow Corning) Crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane beads coated with 20.00 18.00 polydimethylsilsesquioxane resin (92/8) sold under the name KSP 100 by the company Shin Etsu Cross-linked polydimethylsiloxane beads sold under the name DOW CORNING 9701 by the company Dow Corning Mica sold under the name Carder Mica 8 by the 9,71 9,71 company Cardre Talc 32,73 32,73 Magnesium stearate 5,00 5, Deodorized isodecyl neopentanoate 4.00 4.00 (DUB VCI 10 from the company STERINERIE DUBOIS) The compositions have a fine and soft texture when the product is fingered. The makeup obtained makes it possible to camouflage satisfactorily the color defects of the skin, without accentuating the relief defects such as wrinkles or fine lines, and having good properties of softness on application and comfort during the treatment. journée.5

Claims (25)

  1. A pulverulent cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: an amount effective as binder of at least one short ester, at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least an elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and - at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a filler having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6.   2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said short ester corresponds to the following formula (I): R, -CO-O-R2 (I) in which: - R, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 with 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted, and - R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the short esters are CO to C40 and especially C, o to C25 and more particularly C12 to C20.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the short ester is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate and palmitate. 2-ethylhexyl, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and mixtures thereof.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the short ester is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 at 10% by weight.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the binder comprises at least one silicone oil.   7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the silicone oil is chosen from dimethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes, polyplenylmethylsiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyltrisiloxane hexyl, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and their mixtures.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 6 and 7, characterized in that the weight ratio of short ester / silicone oil (s) is between 0.5 and 3, preferably between 0.75 and 2, 5, and better between 0.75 to 1.5.   9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the elastomeric organopolysiloxane is selected from those obtained: - by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having groups to ethylenic unsaturation bonded to silicon; - by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon; - by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane; by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is a non-emulsifying elastomer.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is coated with silsesquioxane resin.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder is a spherical powder.   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, is present in a content ranging from 15% to 40% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 15% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 17% to 25% by weight. 30   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar filler has a refractive index of from 1.6 to 2.5, preferably from 1.65 to 2.4 and better still from 1, 7 to 2.2.   17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar filler having a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6 is selected from among boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and barium sulphate. , the talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica multilayer particles, and mixtures thereof.   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar filler of refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6 is boron nitride.   19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lamellar filler having a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.6 is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 15% to 70%. % by weight, and more preferably from 18 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one uncoated spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxane.   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pulverulent dyestuff chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixture.   22. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the pulverulent dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 35% by weight, especially from 1 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 2 to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition   23. A process for making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the surface to be made up a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22.   24. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, for obtaining a makeup camouflaging satisfactorily the color defects of the skin, without accentuating the relief defects such as wrinkles or fine lines, and presenting good properties of softness to the application and comfort during the day. 25