Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition comprising a particular ester and its uses
• the present invention relates to a composition, in particular for making up or caring for the skin, including the scalp, both of the face and of the human body, of the lips or of the integuments of human beings, such as hair, eyelashes, the eyebrows or the nails, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium which contains a fatty phase comprising a particular ester.
• This composition has remarkable cosmetic properties, in particular of hold, and gives makeup or care properties of shine and / or comfort and / or non-migration.
• the composition of the invention may in particular be in the form of a makeup product for keratin materials (skin, lips, integuments) having in particular non-therapeutic care and / or treatment properties.
• silicone compounds in cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up compositions, is known to formulators. Mention may be made, for example, of patent EP-A-0407205 which describes a composition comprising the combination of a silicone gum and a silicone oil which makes it possible to obtain good properties of resistance, spreading and comfort of the composition.
• These compounds give cosmetic compositions excellent sensory properties, in particular a non-greasy feel, spreading and slippery properties and make it possible, in particular, to obtain a particularly homogeneous film on the skin.
• silicone compounds can present compatibility problems (solubility) with other hydrocarbon compounds conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, which limits their use.
• esters according to the invention have properties equivalent to those of silicone compounds while having greater compatibility (solubility). This allows for greater diversity in formulations.
• the esters according to the invention have greater harmlessness with respect to keratin materials and can therefore be formulated in addition to or in substitution for the silicone compounds.
• diesters of diols are esters of neopentanoic acid with unbranched alkylene oxides of formula HO (C n H 2n O) m H such that n is equal to 2 or 3 and m is between 2 and 4.
• the first subject of the present invention is a composition
• a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase comprising at least one ester resulting from the reaction of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of formula (I) below:
• R ⁇ R 2 and R 3 are radicals chosen independently from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals, optionally functionalized, and their associations, characterized in that said polyol is chosen from polyols comprising a carbon atom, located in alpha carbon carrying an alcohol function, which is trisubstituted by radicals chosen independently of one another from the alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals and their associations, at least one of the alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals containing at least one alcohol function, said polyol not being trimethyl-2,2,4-pentanediol-1, 3.
• a second subject of the present invention is a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase comprising at least one ester resulting from the reaction of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of formula (I) below:
• R 1 t R 2 and R 3 are radicals independently chosen from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals, optionally functionalized, and their associations, said acid comprising from 5 to 9 carbon atoms and said polyol not being a compound of formula HO (C n H 2n O) m H such that n is equal to 2 or 3 and m is between 2 and 4.
• ester according to the invention means, depending on the case, a monoester, a diester, a triester or more generally a polyester.
• a third object of the present invention is a composition
• a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase comprising at least one ester resulting from the reaction of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of formula (I) below:
• R 3 in which R 1 ( R 2 and R 3 are radicals chosen independently from alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals, optionally functionalized, and their associations, said ester comprising at least three ester functions.
• one ester means one or more esters.
• physiologically acceptable is meant non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings.
• the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention is in particular cosmetically acceptable, that is to say pleasant in taste, in feel, in appearance and / or in odor, applicable for several days for several months.
• a radical comprising a heteroatom, that is to say an atom different from the carbon atom (such as an oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, fluorine atom) or a functional group such as a carboxyl group -COOH, hydroxyl -OH, amide - NHR or ester -COOR, R representing an alkyl radical.
• the subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one of the esters described above, in a cosmetic composition, as an agent for imparting to the said composition hold properties, in particular color, and / or shine and / or comfort and / or non-migration.
• Another object of the present invention is the use of at least one of the esters described above, in a cosmetic composition having hold properties, in particular color, and / or shine and / or comfort and / or non-migration.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for imparting to a film of cosmetic composition hold properties, in particular color, and / or gloss and / or comfort and / or non-migration, consisting in introducing into said composition at least one of the esters described above.
• the ester of the composition according to the invention can result from a total or partial esterification.
• a total ester is an ester not comprising a free OH group, because all the alcohol functions of said polyol reacted with an acid molecule of formula (I), and because the acid of formula (I) does not include in its structure a hydroxyl group.
• a partial ester comprises at least one OH group, which may be an alcohol function of the polyol which has not reacted with an acid function of the acid of formula (I).
• a partial ester may also result from the total reaction of a polyol with an acid of formula (I) such that at least one of the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 contains a hydroxyl group.
• the ester of the composition according to the invention results from the reaction of a carboxylic acid of formula (I) with a polyol.
• the carbon located in alpha of the acid function of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is trisubstituted by a hydrocarbon group. This carbon atom is therefore directly linked to 4 carbon atoms and is called “neo” carbon.
• An acid comprising such a structure is called “neo” acid and will be designated in the following text.
• the radicals Ri, R 2 and R 3 are advantageously chosen independently from saturated alkyl radicals.
• the “neo” carboxylic acid can be a monoacid or a polyacid, ie at least one of the radicals R 1 ( R 2 or R 3 contains a functional group -COOH.
• the carboxylic acid is a monoacid.
• the polyol can be a diol, a triol or a tetraol.
• the carbon located in alpha of the acid function of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is trisubstituted by radicals chosen independently from saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals, comprising in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, provided that the number of carbon atoms of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is between 5 and 9.
• the number of carbon atoms in the carboxylic acid of formula (I) preferably ranges from 5 to 7.
• the radicals R 1 ( R 2 and R 3 are advantageously chosen independently from saturated alkyl radicals having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
• the radicals Ri, R 2 and R 3 are especially chosen independently from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isobutyl, isopropyl, butyl and pentyl, provided that the number of carbon atoms of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is included ranging from 5 and 9.
• neo carboxylic acid chosen from neopentanoic acid of formula CH 3 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -COOH, neohexanoic acid and neoheptanoic acid of formula C 3 H 7 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -COOH.
• Neopentanoic acid is preferred such that the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 are methyl radicals.
• the carbon located in alpha of the acid function of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is trisubstituted by radicals chosen independently from the alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals, and their associations , these radicals can be identical or different.
• alkyl radical is meant a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched aliphatic hydrocarbon chain, comprising in particular from 1 to 28 carbon atoms.
• branched means at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 1 carbon atom.
• aryl radical is meant a radical derived from an aromatic cyclic compound by elimination of a hydrogen atom such as for example the phenyl or tolyl radicals.
• aralkyl radical is meant an alkyl chain substituted by an aryl radical, for example of the R'-C 6 H 5 type , R 'being a C 1 -C 5 alkyl, such as for example the benzyl or phenethyl radicals.
• alkyl, aryl or aralkyl radicals can be functionalized, which means that they can comprise in their structure a heteroatom, that is to say an atom different from the carbon atom (such as an oxygen atom, nitrogen, sulfur, fluorine) or a functional group such as a carboxyl group -COOH, hydroxyl -OH, amide - NHR or ester -COOR, R representing an alkyl.
• a heteroatom that is to say an atom different from the carbon atom (such as an oxygen atom, nitrogen, sulfur, fluorine) or a functional group such as a carboxyl group -COOH, hydroxyl -OH, amide - NHR or ester -COOR, R representing an alkyl.
• radicals R ⁇ R 2 and R 3 are independently chosen from non-functionalized alkyl, aryl or aralkyl radicals.
• the radicals R ⁇ R 2 and R 3 are advantageously chosen independently from the saturated alkyl radicals , preferably from the saturated alkyl radicals in CC 15 , and better still, in C 1 -C 6 such as for example the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, hexyl radical.
• the “neo” carboxylic acid advantageously comprises a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 5 to 30, and better still from 5 to 15, and better still from 5 to 10.
• a “neo” carboxylic acid chosen from neopentanoic acid of formula CH 3 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -COOH, neohexanoic acid, neoheptanoic acid of formula C 3 H 7 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -COOH, neodecanoic acid of formula C 6 H 13 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -COOH, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the “neo” carboxylic acid is neopentanoic acid.
• the polyol is chosen from “neo” polyols, that is to say polyols which contain a carbon atom, located in alpha of the carbon carrying an alcohol function, which is trisubstituted by radicals independently selected from the alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals and their associations, at least one of the alkyl, aryl, aralkyl radicals containing at least one alcohol function.
• This carbon atom directly linked to 4 other carbon atoms is therefore a “neo” carbon as defined above.
• the “neo” polyol contains a carbon atom located in alpha of the carbon carrying one of the alcohol functions which is trisubstituted by radicals chosen independently from saturated alkyl radicals, preferably alkyl radicals saturated with and better with CC 6 , at at least one of the alkyl radicals containing at least one alcohol function.
• neo polyol in particular, trimethylol propane of formula HOCH 2 - C (C 2 H 5 ) (CH 2 OH) 2 , pentaerythritol of formula HOCH 2 -C (CH 2 OH) 2 -CH 2 OH are chosen. , neopentyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
• the “neo” polyol advantageously comprises a number of carbon atoms ranging from 5 to 20, and preferably from 5 to 10.
• the polyol can be a diol, a triol or a tetraol.
• the neopentyl glycol of formula HOCH 2 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 OH is chosen in particular.
• the ester comprises at least three ester functions and it is obtained by reaction of a polyol with a carboxylic acid of formula (I).
• the polyol can comprise two or more hydroxyl groups
• the acid of formula (I) can comprise radicals R 1 and / or R 2 and / or R 3 functionalized by ester groups or alternatively the radicals.
• R ⁇ R 2 and / or R 3 are functionalized by an ester group
• the radicals Ri, R 2 and / or R 3 are functionalized by two ester groups.
• the polyol comprises two hydroxyl groups or if only two of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol each react with an acid of formula (I) then at least one of the acids of formula (I) which has reacted with the polyol comprises an ester group.
• the acid of formula (I) having reacted with each of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol does not necessarily comprise at least one radical R, R 2 and / or R 3 functionalized by a group ester.
• the polyol can therefore comprise a number of carbon atoms ranging from 2 to 20, and preferably from 3 to 10.
• the polyol can be a diol, a triol or a tetraol .
• the polyol is preferably an aliphatic polyol whose backbone is saturated.
• the polyol can be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol other than a compound of formula HO (C n H 2n O) m H such that n is equal to 2 or 3 and m is between 2 and 4, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, isopentyl diol, sorbitol and their mixtures.
• the polyol can be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, isopentyl diol, sorbitol and their mixtures.
• the polyol can be chosen from “neo” polyols as described above, for example trimethylol propane, pentaerythritol, neopentyl glycol, or their mixtures.
• the ester of the composition according to the invention is in liquid form at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg or 1.01.10 5 Pa).
• This ester is in particular an oil.
• oil is meant any liquid non-aqueous medium which is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the ester used in the composition of the invention can be advantageously chosen from neopentylglycol (C 15 ) di-neopentanoate, neopentyl glycol (C 19 ) dneoheptanoate and mixtures thereof.
• C 15 di-neopentanoate
• C 19 neopentyl glycol
• the C n in parentheses represents the total number of carbon atoms of the cited compound).
• the ester used in the composition of the invention can be advantageously chosen from glyceryl trineopentanoate (C ⁇ 8 ), glyceryl trineoheptanoate (C 24 ), and mixtures thereof .
• the C n in parentheses represents the total number of carbon atoms of the cited compound).
• the ester is a polyester and comprises at least three ester functions -COO-. It can be a triester, a tetraester or a pentaester.
• the polyester comprising at least three ester functions results from the reaction of a carboxylic acid of formula (I) with a polyol.
• the ester of the composition can result from a total or partial esterification (in the latter case, the ester comprises one or more free -OH functions).
• the ester advantageously contains no free hydroxyl group, in the sense that all of the hydroxyl groups of the polyol have reacted with a carboxylic acid molecule not containing a hydroxyl group.
• the carboxylic acid of formula (I) can be a monoacid or a polycarboxylic acid and the polyol can be a diol, a triol or a tetraol, said acid and said polyol being chosen so that their reaction leads to a total or partial ester comprising at least three ester functions.
• the polyester preferably results from the reaction of a mono carboxylic acid of formula (I) with a triol (polyol comprising at least three hydroxyl groups).
• the polyester is preferably a total ester in the sense that it does not have a free -OH function.
• the polyester is for example glyceryl tri-neodecanoate (C 33 ).
• the ester of the composition according to the present invention can represent from 0.1 to 99.9%, preferably from 1 to 99% and better still from 5 to 90% of the total weight of the composition. It represents for example from 5 to 60% of the total weight of the composition.
• the ester is in sufficient quantity to give the composition properties of shine and / or resistance over time and / or non-migration and / or comfort.
• This ester can be prepared according to methods known to those skilled in the art. We can for example cite the following documents in which the synthesis of this compound is described: PAWLENKO Justus, Liebigs Ann. Chem. 663 (1963); M. FEFER and A. RUTKOWSKI, JAOCS 45, 5-10 (1968); B. PAULSEN, Chem. Ber. 104, 1281-1294 (1971); V.A. BOCHKOVA, J. Appl. Chem. USSR 46_, 1929-1932 (1973) and the patents US-A-3,441,600 and US-A-3,523,084 from the company SINCLAIR RESEARCH INC.
• composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one coloring agent which can be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, nacres or pearlescent pigments and their mixtures.
• pigments it is necessary to understand white or colored particles insoluble in the liquid fatty phase of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
• nacres or “nacreous pigments” is meant iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase of the composition.
• dyes should be understood to mean generally organic compounds which are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
• the liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red n ° 17, D&C Green n ° 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow n ° 11, D&C Violet n ° 2, D&C orange n ° 5, quinoline yellow, annatto, bromoacids.
• the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, caramel.
• the liposoluble and water-soluble dyes can represent from 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.
• the pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not.
• the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of the organic lacquer type of barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (example D&C or FD&C) and those free of FDA certification like cochineal carmine lacquers.
• FDA Food and Drug Administration
• the pigments can be present in the composition in an amount of 0.05 to 40% of the weight of the final composition, and preferably in an amount of 2 to 20% for a non-pulverulent composition.
• a pulverulent composition they can represent up to 70% of the total weight of the composition.
• the nacres or nacreous pigments can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular blue ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It is thus possible to use pigments with goniochromatic properties, in particular with liquid crystals or multilayers.
• the nacres can be present in the composition in an amount of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a rate of the order of 1 to 15%.
• the coloring agents represent from 0.001 to 60%, and better still from 0.01 to 50%, and better still, from 1 to 40% of the total weight of the composition.
• the coloring agent is chosen from pigments, nacres and their mixtures.
• the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one filler.
• filler any colorless or white particle chosen from mineral or organic fillers, lamellar, spherical or oblong, chemically inert in the composition. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), particles of acrylic polymer, in particular of copolymer d acrylic acid such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, carbonate and magnesium hydro-carbonate, l hydroxyapati
• fillers can be treated or not on the surface, in particular to make them lipophilic.
• the fillers have a particle size less than 50 ⁇ m and can represent from 0.01 to 35%, preferably from 0.05 to 25% and better still from 0.5 to 15% of the total weight of the composition, if they are presented.
• composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one additional non-aqueous compound different from the ester used in the composition according to the invention, chosen from oils, fatty substances which are pasty at room temperature, waxes, gums, resins, lipophilic polymers and mixtures thereof.
• This additional non-aqueous compound can represent from 0.001 to 90% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 60% and better still from 1 to 50%.
• wax in the sense of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C. which can range up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
• the size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance.
• the wax can be chosen from solid waxes at room temperature, such as hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, which may be modified, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese wax, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene or ethylene copolymer waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C.
• hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, which may be modified, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese wax, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene or ethylene copolymer waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils
• Silicone waxes can also be used, among which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.
• the waxes can be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax as they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Académie Press (1977), pages 21-32.
• the waxes used have a melting temperature at least equal to 45 ° C.
• the wax can represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
• the gums which can be used in the invention are generally present in the form dissolved in an oil and the resins can be liquid or solid at room temperature.
• the additional oils can be hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. "Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from the hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
• vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil
• linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum
• the composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additive usually used in the field concerned, such as water, antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, lipophilic gelling agents or non-aqueous liquid compounds, aqueous phase gelling agents, dispersants, cosmetic active agents, and mixtures thereof.
• additives with the exception of water which can represent from 0 to 80% and for example from 1 to 70 and better still from 1 to 60% of the total weight of the composition, can be present in the composition in an amount of 0 .0005 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.001 to 10%.
• cosmetic active means a lipophilic or hydrophilic compound providing a benefit to keratin materials and more especially to the skin and lips.
• cosmetic active agent which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of vitamins A, E, C, B 3 , F, provitamins such as D-panthenol, soothing active agents such as ⁇ -bisabolol, Paloe vera, allantoin, plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides, freshness active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter, dimethicone), moisturizers (arginine PCA), anti-wrinkle active ingredients, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.
• provitamins such as D-panthenol
• soothing active agents such as ⁇ -bisabolol, Paloe vera
• allantoin plant extracts or essential oils
• protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides
• freshness active ingredients such as menthol and its derivatives
• emollients cocoa butter, dimethicone
• moisturizers arginine PCA
• compositions according to the invention are multiple and relate to all cosmetic products, whether colored or not, and more particularly lip makeup products such as lipsticks or lip glosses and makeup products for the complexion, namely facial skin, such as foundations, concealer, loose or compacted powder, blush or eyeshadow, blush, make-up bases.
• compositions according to the invention can be prepared in the usual manner by a person skilled in the art. They can be in the form of a cast product, and for example in the form of a stick or stick, or in the form of a cup usable by direct contact or with a sponge or in a hot water bottle. In particular, they find application as a poured foundation, blush or eyeshadow, lipstick, base or lip care balm, concealer product. They can also be in the form of a flexible paste or else a gel, a more or less fluid cream. They can then constitute foundations or lipsticks, lip glosses (gloss in English terminology), sunscreen or skin coloring products.
• compositions of the invention may be anhydrous and contain less than 5% of water added relative to the total weight of the composition. They can then be presented in particular in the form of an oily gel, an oily liquid, a paste or a stick or also in the form of a vesicular dispersion containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. They can also be in the form of a single or multiple emulsion with an oily or aqueous continuous phase, an oily dispersion in an aqueous phase using vesicles containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. These dosage forms are prepared according to the usual methods of the fields considered.
• the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition, colored or not, for caring for the skin, in the form of a sun protection or make-up removal composition or also in the form of a hygienic composition. If it contains assets
• composition of the invention can also be in the form of a colored make-up product for the skin, in particular the face, such as a blush, blush or eyeshadow, body make-up such as a semi tattoo product.
• permanent or lip makeup such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, possibly having non-therapeutic care or treatment properties, an appendage makeup product such as for example a nail polish, a mascara, an eyeliner, a product hair coloring or care.
• the composition according to the invention is in the form of a lip makeup product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss or a complexion makeup product, namely the skin of the face, such as a foundation.
• a lip makeup product is advantageously in anhydrous form.
• a complexion makeup product is preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion.
• the composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field. The following examples are intended to illustrate, without limitation, the object of the present invention. The quantities are given in percentage by mass.
• Example 1 Measures of viscosity and spreading properties of compounds according to the invention and according to the prior art.
• the inventors have compared the viscosities and spreading properties of the following compounds:
• 1.1 Viscosity measurements The viscosity is measured at 20 ° C. using a Brookfield "DV-II +" type LV viscometer with a number 1 mobile rotating at 100 rpm.
• a support is prepared consisting of an “ashless” filter paper with a porosity of 25 ⁇ m and a diameter of 90 mm, sold by the company Prolabo.
• test compound 0.1 ml is then taken which is deposited in the center of the filter paper, then it is allowed to migrate at 20 ° C.
• compositions according to the invention contains neopentyl glycol di-neopentanoate and the composition of Example 3 (comparative) contains polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt).
• phase D the pigments (phase D) are dispersed and ground in phase A using a three-cylinder mill.
• a Bentone ® gel (phase B) is prepared by dispersing, using a high pressure homogenizer, Bentone ® in the Parléam.
• phase A The pigments ground in phase A as well as the Bentone gel are placed in a pan in which the waxes are added (phase C), then heated at 100 ° C. for 2 hours and homogenized using a Rayner shaker. .
• Phase E is then added along with the active ingredients (phase F) and the mixture is homogenized for 5 min then poured into an appropriate mold at 42 ° C to form sticks. The mold is then placed at -20 ° C for half an hour and then the sticks are removed from the mold.
• compositions of Examples 2 and 3 were applied by half-lips to a panel of 5 qualified people and evaluated according to different criteria.
• composition of Example 2 has non-migration properties superior to those of the composition of Example 3 (comparative), the other cosmetic criteria being equivalent to those of the composition containing polydimethylsiloxane (Comparative Example 3).
• the composition of Example 2 has in particular excellent sliding properties, softness, coverage and agreeability to the application as well as comfort and hold of the composition film over time.
• Neopentyl glycol di-neopentanoate can therefore advantageously replace polydimethysiloxane in cosmetic compositions in order to obtain the properties mentioned above.
• Example 4 Stick of lipstick
• composition according to the invention is prepared according to the procedure of Examples 2 and 3, containing glyceryl tri-neopentanoate manufactured or marketed by the company BSI under the reference NEOFEEL TNP ®
• Hydrogenated polyisobutene manufactured or marketed qs 100 under the reference Parléam ® by the company Nippon Oil and Fats
• Glyceryl tri-neopentanoate manufactured or marketed 17.3 by the company BSI under the reference NEOFEEL TNP ® .
• Glyceryl tri-neopentanoate manufactured or marketed by the 29.4 company BSI under the reference NEOFEEL TNP ® .
• Cetyldimethicone copolyol (manufactured or marketed by the company 3
• the pigments are dispersed in 4% glyceryl tri-neopentanoate using a three-cylinder grinder (3 passages are carried out in the grinder). The rest of the constituents of the oily phase are weighed together and then heated to 70 ° C. The ground and then homogenized pigments are added to the oily phase with stirring with the Moritz stirrer (at a speed of 1000 rpm).
• the aqueous phase is slowly added to the mixture of oily phase + pigments while maintaining a minimum temperature of 50 ° C. during the addition and passing at a stirring speed of 3000 rpm "1 .
• the mixture is gradually allowed to return to room temperature while maintaining agitation.
• the foundation obtained is in the form of a cream. It has good holding properties while being comfortable.

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• 2003
  • 2003-07-25 EP EP03755636A patent/EP1653919A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
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  • 2003-07-25 WO PCT/FR2003/002357 patent/WO2005018584A1/fr active Application Filing
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