Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A23—FOODS OR FOODSTUFFS; TREATMENT THEREOF, NOT COVERED BY OTHER CLASSES
  • A23L—FOODS, FOODSTUFFS, OR NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES, NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES A21D OR A23B-A23J; THEIR PREPARATION OR TREATMENT, e.g. COOKING, MODIFICATION OF NUTRITIVE QUALITIES, PHYSICAL TREATMENT; PRESERVATION OF FOODS OR FOODSTUFFS, IN GENERAL
  • A23L33/00—Modifying nutritive qualities of foods; Dietetic products; Preparation or treatment thereof
  • A23L33/10—Modifying nutritive qualities of foods; Dietetic products; Preparation or treatment thereof using additives
  • A23L33/115—Fatty acids or derivatives thereof; Fats or oils
  • A23L33/12—Fatty acids or derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
  • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
  • A61P3/00—Drugs for disorders of the metabolism
  • A61P3/04—Anorexiants; Antiobesity agents
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

• the invention relates to preparations with conjugated linoleic alcohol and the use of conjugated linoleic alcohol in foods, cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
• CLA conjugated linoleic acids
• CLA As an active ingredient in pharmaceutical products.
• Cosmetic preparations in which the CLA are used in a carrier are said to promote the dermal absorption of conjugated linoleic acids and, in particular in sunscreens, to protect against carcinogenic UV light.
• preparations with a combination of free CLA and CLA esters are used.
• esterification of the free fatty acids in turn results in a decrease in dermal and transdermal absorption due to an enlarged molecular structure.
• the object of the present invention was therefore to find a substitute for conjugated linoleic acid, in particular for use in foods and cosmetic and pharmaceutical products, which has better organoleptic properties and is suitable for use in dermal and transdermal application.
• the substance should be easy to manufacture and can be processed in different preparations without incompatibilities.
• the present invention relates to preparations containing ice and trans isomers of conjugated linoleic alcohol, selected from the group formed by 6, 8-octadecadienol, 7, 9-octadecadienol, 8, 10-octadecadienol, 9, 11-octadecadienol, 10, 12-octadecadienol and 11.13 - octadecadienol, and preparations which contain the isomers of conjugated linoleic alcohol in combination with conjugated linoleic acid and / or linoleic acid esters.
• Another object of the invention relates to the use of conjugated linoleic alcohol as a food additive for human and animal nutrition and for the production of pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations, in particular sunscreens.
• conjugated linoleic alcohol In contrast to the known methyl esters of conjugated linoleic acid, there is no risk of methanol being split off in the gastrointestinal area when the conjugated linoleic alcohol is taken orally in pharmaceuticals or foods. The production of conjugated linoleic alcohol is also much easier than that of the esters from CLA.
• the conjugated linoleic alcohols can be incorporated into various foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals without causing any side reactions. On the one hand, they are still sufficiently lipophilic to be well absorbed orally as well as dermally and transdermally, on the other hand there is no reduced absorption because the molecule size has not been increased by esterification of the substance to be absorbed.
• the conjugated linoleic alcohols are well absorbed by the epidermis and, after metabolism in the dermis, can optimally develop the protective effect against UV-carcinogenesis. The time-dependent metabolism leads to a prolonged effect.
• the cosmetic preparations they are therefore preferably suitable for use in preparations against aging of the skin and in sunscreens to reduce the carcinogenesis caused by UV light. In combination with light protection filters, the conjugated linoleic alcohols lead to a synergistic protective effect.
• Conjugated linoleic alcohol and mixtures of conjugated linoleic alcohol with conjugated linoleic acid and / or conjugated linoleic acid esters can therefore also be used excellently as dietary supplements and are also suitable for use in agents for reducing the body's own fat and to support the body's own protein and muscle tissue.
• conjugated linoleic alcohol with conjugated linoleic acid and conjugated linoleic acid esters can also be used to control the optimal active level.
• Conjugated linoleic alcohol can also be used to control the optimal active level.
• conjugated linoleic alcohol preferred the ice and trans isomers of 6, 8-octadecadienol, 7, 9-octadecadienol, 8, 10-octadecadienol, 9, 11-octadecadienol, 10, 12-octadecadienol and 11,13-octadecadienol to understand the main isomers 9.11 octadecadienol and 10.12 octadecadienol and in particular 9-cis, 11-trans-octadecadienol, 10-trans, 12-cis octadecadienol, but also any mixtures of isomers.
• the conjugated linoleic acids which can be used as a mixture with conjugated linoleic alcohol, are in the form of ice and trans isomers of 6, 8-octadecadienoic acid, 7, 9-octadecadienoic acid, 8, 10-octadecadienoic acid, 9, 11 in accordance with the alcohol according to the invention - octadecadienoic acid, 10, 12-octadecadienoic acid and 11,13 - octadecadienoic acid, preferably the main isomers 9,11 octadecadienoic acid and 10,12 octadecadienoic acid and in particular 9-cis, 11-trans-octadecadienoic acid, 10-trans, 12-cis octadecadienoic acid, and however also any mixtures of isomers, as are usually obtained in the production of conjugated linoleic acid.
• conjugated linoleic acid esters are understood to mean esters of conjugated linoleic acid with mono- and / or polyhydric saturated and / or unsaturated alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably be below
• R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another stand for fatty acid residues with 6 to 24 carbon atoms and at least one residue R 1 , R 2 or R 3 stands for a conjugated linoleic acid residue.
• UV light protection factors that are used in combination with conjugated linoleic alcohol in dermal preparations are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature that are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer waves Radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
• UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester; Triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1 ) 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB); Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• Triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1 ) 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb®
• benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
• benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
• typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds.
• the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
• Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g.
• water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.
• insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
• suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
• Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
• the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
• the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
• the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
• Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
• Foodstuffs for human or animal nutrition can contain the conjugated linoleic alcohols in quantities of 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation , It is possible to dissolve or disperse the conjugated linoleic alcohols in customary, preferably fat-containing, foods; butter, margarine, diet food, deep-frying oils, edible oils, mayonnaises, salad dressings, cocoa products, sausages and the like are suitable for this purpose.
• the conjugated linoleic alcohols can be used in particular in foods, preferably so-called “functional foods” and in pharmaceuticals, in particular as a supporting agent in the treatment of tumors or also for the treatment of people suffering from catabolic states.
• Products to be administered orally with mixtures of conjugated linoleic alcohol and conjugated linoleic acid usually contain the constituents in a ratio of 99: 1 to 1:99, preferably 98: 2 to 50:50 and particularly preferably 95: 5 to 60:40.
• conjugated linoleic alcohol with conjugated linoleic acid esters are present in the preparations according to the invention in a ratio of 99: 1 to 1:99, preferably 98: 2 to 40:60 and particularly preferably 90:10 to 50:50.
• Embodiments of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations according to the invention contain 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight and particularly preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight, of conjugated linoleic alcohol, based on the preparation.
• the conjugated linoleic alcohols are to be used in sunscreens which contain UV light protection filters as further constituents.
• the sunscreens according to the invention preferably contain
• the conjugated linoleic alcohols can furthermore be used for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or Serve ointments.
• cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or Serve ointments.
• agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, Contain film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
• mild surfactants oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, Contain film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents,
• Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.
• anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymischog sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sul
• anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
• nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e.
• particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, Monogly- ceridsulfate, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
• esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
• esters of Ci 8 -C3 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
• esters of linear and / or branched Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
• triglycerides based on C ß -Cio fatty acids liquid mono- / di- / Triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Cis fatty acids
• esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 up to 10 carbon
• Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
• dicaprylyl ether such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE)
• silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.
• aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
• Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
• Polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched carbon atoms and with 12 to 22 fatty acids with 12 to 22 /or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• sugar alcohols e.g. sorbitol
• alkyl glucosides e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside
• polyglucosides e.g. cellulose
• Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
• C12 / .-- Fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
• glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
• the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products. > Partial sqlcerides
• Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklaremonoglycerid, Linolklarediglycerid, Linolenchuremonoglycerid, Linolenkladi- glyceride, Erucaklaremonoglycerid, Erucaklakladiglycerid, Weinklaremonoglycerid, Weinkladoglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, ⁇ pfelklarochremono- glyceride, and Apfelklakladiglycerid their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30,
• sorbitan sorbitan As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat,
• polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 distearates (Cremophor® GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleates (Admul® WOL 1403) polyglyceryl dimerate isostearates and
• Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
• Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
• Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
• Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-car - Boxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
• betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate,
• Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
• Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / i ⁇ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOßH group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
• ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyiglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids each with approximately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
• Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-acylsarcosine.
• Cationic surfactants are suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
• Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microfax waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g.
• natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax,
• Montanester waxes Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
• fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
• lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
• Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
• phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
• glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
• sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
• Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycols, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon
• Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
• a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
• Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
• Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
• polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl
• Bentonites such as e.g. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate.
• Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
• Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
• Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used as stabilizers.
• Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
• Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g.
• Amodimethicones copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, such as quaternized chitin derivatives, such as quaternized chitin derivatives, such as, Dihaloalkylene, such as Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
• anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,
• Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes,
• Methylphenylpolysiloxanes cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
• Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
• secondary light protection agents of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
• Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
• ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
• thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
• buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
• citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
• humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
• unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives eg ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
• folic acid and their derivatives unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
• ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
• vitamin E acetate
• vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
• coniferyl benzoate of benzoin rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, Nordih , Nordihydroguajaretic acid,
• zinc and its derivatives e.g. ZnO, ZnS0
• selenium and its derivatives e.g. selenium methionine
• stilbenes and their derivatives e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
• the derivatives suitable according to the invention salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
• biogenic active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, To understand retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
• Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
• Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
• germ-inhibiting agents such as.
• Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT).
• the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
• esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, Adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
• odor absorbers such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
• Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
• Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
• Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, and the alcohols Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
• the aldehydes for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde,
• fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
• Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
• Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
• non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
• Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
• suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine.
• conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
• Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
• Usual water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, for example buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides. film formers
• Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
• Ketoconazole elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal,
• Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.
• Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate
• Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
• Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
• Hvdrotrope ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid
• Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
• Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
• the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
• Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
• Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
• Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, Juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses ( Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
• Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate,
• the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g.
• the Jonone, ⁇ -Isomethylionon and Methylced rylketon to the alcohols Anethol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Linalool, Phenylethylalkohol and Terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the Terpenes and Balsame.
• Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g.
• Sage oil chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
• Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
• the dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Kochillerill A (Cl 16255), Patentblau V (C.1.42051), Indigotin (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline yellow (CI47005), Titanium dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrenbiau RS (Cl 69800) and madder varnish (C.1.58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

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