EP1496843A1

EP1496843A1 - Hair shampoo containing pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives

Info

Publication number: EP1496843A1
Application number: EP03722431A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Harald Albrecht; Birgit Heitmann; Stephan Ruppert
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2002-04-11
Filing date: 2003-04-09
Publication date: 2005-01-19
Also published as: US20060178288A1; US7279449B2; WO2003084488A1; DE10216497A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic hair cleaning agents that contain one or more pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and non-ionic, amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

HAIR SHAMPOO CONTAINING PRE-PRINCESSED, CROSS-NETWORKED STARCH DERIVATIVES

The present invention relates to cosmetic hair shampoos with improved hair care performance, in particular those containing starch derivatives which achieve particularly improved combability, hair volume or fullness, shine and improved feel when used.

The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is hairy, but for the most part with barely visible wool hairs. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair is sensitive to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. The most important function of the human head hair today, however, should be to help shape the human appearance in a characteristic way. Similar to the skin, it fulfills a social function, since its appearance makes a significant contribution to interpersonal relationships and the self-esteem of the individual.

The hair consists of the hair shaft protruding freely from the skin - the keratinized (dead) part, which actually represents the visible hair - and the hair root stuck in the skin - the living part, in which the visible hair is constantly being newly formed. The hair shaft, for its part, is made up of three layers: a central part - the so-called hair mark (medulla), which, however, is regressed in humans and is often completely absent - as well as the marrow (cortex) and the outer cuticle layer (cuticle) up to ten layers thick that covers the whole hair.

Unless there are pathological changes, human hair can practically not be improved in its newly grown state. The part of a hair located near the scalp accordingly has an almost closed cuticle layer. In particular the cuticle layer as the outer shell of the hair, but also the inner area below the cuticle are particularly exposed to environmental influences.

Significant influences for the loss of quality of a hair during its aging are the influence of sunlight, mechanical stress due to intensive combing or brushing, but also hair treatments, such as hair coloring and in particular bleaching, as well as hair shaping, for example permanent wave processes. Oxidative loads in particular often damage the hair.

Both UV-A and UV-B radiation have a damaging effect on the hair, which manifests itself, for example, in the fact that certain amino acids such as cystine and methionine are broken down or sulfur-sulfur bonds of keratin are broken, which in the worst case is a Destruction of the hair can result. Furthermore, hair and scalp are parts of the body that are exposed to a significant amount of UV radiation due to their position when they are outdoors.

A goal of hair care is to maintain the natural state of freshly regrown hair for as long a period as possible and to restore it in the event of loss. Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feeling are characteristics of natural, healthy hair.

Products for hair care have been developed specifically since the end of the last century. This has resulted in a variety of preparations for both general hair care and for eliminating hair and scalp abnormalities. In general, hair care cosmetics are used nowadays which are either intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure or which are intended to remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of a hairstyle. Hair cared for in this way is characterized by a pleasant handle, natural shine, increased fullness, suppleness and thus good manageability and strength and thus good hairstyle fit. Modern cleaning products for hair cleaning generally consist of water, surfactants, thickeners, auxiliaries and care components. The care components in particular have recently become very important because the consumer, especially those with damaged or damaged hair, expects a very high level of care performance. Care is synonymous with the biophysical parameters of combability, volume, fullness, shine, feel. In order to obtain a correspondingly high level of care, oils, preferably silicone oils, can be incorporated into the shampoo formulations. Formally, these formulations represent emulsions, which accordingly also have a white, creamy appearance. In order to produce these emulsions stably, however, complex formulation technology is required.

Another disadvantage is that the silicone oil used pulls on the hair, which the above. Provides care effects, but with frequent hair washing there is also a depot-forming effect of the oil on the hair: a layer of silicone oil forms on the hair with each use. With regular use of such an emulsion, this leads to a decrease in the hair volume and fullness due to the increasing weighting of the hair with oil. The use of starch derivatives has also not been able to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art described in the past.

It has been found, surprisingly and unpredictably for the person skilled in the art, that cosmetic hair cleansing agents containing one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. By using the preparations according to the invention, excellent care results were obtained which are at least equivalent to the care performance of a silicone shampoo.

These also do not have the depot-forming, hair-weighing effects of emulsion shampoos, but also lead to excellent care in terms of volume and volume, even with frequent and regular use. Transparent formulations can also be produced in this way. The invention also encompasses the use of one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives to improve the combability, the volume, the fullness, the gloss, the feel of with cationic polymers and non-ionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants-containing hair cleaning agents treated hair.

Particularly preferred as pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives are hydroxypropylated phosphate esters, very particularly preferred

Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphate used.

Hair cleaners according to the invention or are very particularly preferred

Uses characterized in that the content of pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives is 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.3-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight.

Hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that the content of cationic polymers 0.1-

15% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight.

Polymeric quaternized polymers are particularly preferred as cationic polymers

Ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, use depolymerized and then quaternized guar gum derivatives and / or quaternized guar derivatives.

Hair cleansers or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they are nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic

Surfactants ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols with 12 to 14 and / or

Alkylamidopropylbetaine can be used.

Furthermore, hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they also contain further surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.

US 6248338 describes cosmetic preparations with pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, but this document could not point the way to the present invention.

It is advantageous according to the invention if hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. Starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous are, particularly advantageous hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate. The use of a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate, as sold as the Structure® XL product by National Starch, is very particularly preferred.

It is advantageous to use polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose which has been modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide and has the INCI name. Polyquaternium-10, such as those offered by Amerchol under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400, or the use of depolymerized guar gum derivatives which are quaternized, for example those with the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, such as those under the name Jaguar Excel distributed by Rhodia. The combination of starch derivatives with the polymers mentioned synergistically improves the smoothness-enhancing care properties without weighing the hair down. The hair also has a pleasant feel and is easy to style.

The hair cosmetic detergents and preparations which contain active ingredients according to the invention are topical preparations. These can be composed as usual and can be used to treat and care for the scalp and / or hair or as a sunscreen preparation. For use, the preparations according to the invention are applied to the scalp and hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and hair cleansing agents.

Preparations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously be present as emulsions or solutions.

The agents according to the invention can be present, for example, as preparations which can be dosed from squeeze bottles or by means of a pump or spray device, but also in particular in the form of an agent which can be applied from normal bottles and containers.

Preparations according to the invention, which represent hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for the hair or the scalp, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary agents, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.

In particular, aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention or the aqueous cleaning certain low-water or water-free detergent concentrates anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example, conventional ^"soaps such as fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulphoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates , Amidosulfobetaine, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amidobetaines, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.

Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight. For example, Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Henkel or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucoside as it is offered by the company Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10 or polysorbate 80 as it is offered by the company ICI under the name Tween 80.

Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goldschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc.

The percentages relate to the total weight of the preparations. Conditioning aids may also be present in the hair cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are often used in shampoos, for example with a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight. These include polyquaternium-0 as it is offered under the name Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as it is offered with the name Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, lipid-replenishing agents, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols , Polyols and their toxicologically compatible ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, consistency agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Solution brokers, e.g. for incorporating hydrophobic components such as of perfume preparations can be included.

The total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as further antioxidants.

The total amount of the antioxidants is, for example, 0.000.001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously, further antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, Hexa-, heptathionesulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) , Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytol , Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, tri-hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivative e (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the Derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients mentioned.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations places that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or the skin, especially the scalp.

If the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can advantageously be water-soluble. Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filters include:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or

Triethanolammonium salt, as well as the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

It can also be advantageous to add UV-A filters to the preparations according to the invention which have hitherto usually been found in cosmetic preparations. The quantities used for the UV-B combination can be used.

The preparations according to the invention can be prepared in the customary manner by mixing the individual constituents. The active ingredients of the combinations according to the invention or the premixed components of the combinations according to the invention can be added in the mixing process.

The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or bases, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, for example based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer mixtures. The pH is preferably below 10, for example in the range 4-8, in particular in the range 5-7.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.

The following examples illustrate the invention.

The amounts in the examples are% by weight based on the total weight of the respective preparation.

Examples of hair shampoo formulations:

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic hair cleaners containing one or more pre-gelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants.

2. Use of one or more pre-gelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives to improve the combability, the volume, the fullness, the shine, the feel of hair treated with cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants containing hair cleaning agents.

3. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives.

4. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate (CAS number 113894-92-1) is used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivative.

5. Hair cleaning agent or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.3-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight is.

6. Hair cleaning agent or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic polymers is 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight.

7. Hair cleanser or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as cationic polymers polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, which with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxy is modified, depolymerized and then quaternized guar gum derivatives and / or quaternized guar derivatives are used.

8. Hair cleanser or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols containing 12 to 14 and / or alkylamidopropylbetaine are used as nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants.

9. Hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that additional surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients are included.