EP1496843A1 - Hair shampoo containing pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives - Google Patents

Hair shampoo containing pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives

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Publication number
EP1496843A1
EP1496843A1 EP03722431A EP03722431A EP1496843A1 EP 1496843 A1 EP1496843 A1 EP 1496843A1 EP 03722431 A EP03722431 A EP 03722431A EP 03722431 A EP03722431 A EP 03722431A EP 1496843 A1 EP1496843 A1 EP 1496843A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
weight
derivatives
use according
starch derivatives
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP03722431A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Harald Albrecht
Birgit Heitmann
Stephan Ruppert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1496843A1 publication Critical patent/EP1496843A1/en
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic hair shampoos with improved hair care performance, in particular those containing starch derivatives which achieve particularly improved combability, hair volume or fullness, shine and improved feel when used.
  • the entire human body with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is hairy, but for the most part with barely visible wool hairs. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair is sensitive to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated.
  • the most important function of the human head hair today should be to help shape the human appearance in a characteristic way. Similar to the skin, it fulfills a social function, since its appearance makes a significant contribution to interpersonal relationships and the self-esteem of the individual.
  • the hair consists of the hair shaft protruding freely from the skin - the keratinized (dead) part, which actually represents the visible hair - and the hair root stuck in the skin - the living part, in which the visible hair is constantly being newly formed.
  • the hair shaft for its part, is made up of three layers: a central part - the so-called hair mark (medulla), which, however, is regressed in humans and is often completely absent - as well as the marrow (cortex) and the outer cuticle layer (cuticle) up to ten layers thick that covers the whole hair.
  • Both UV-A and UV-B radiation have a damaging effect on the hair, which manifests itself, for example, in the fact that certain amino acids such as cystine and methionine are broken down or sulfur-sulfur bonds of keratin are broken, which in the worst case is a Destruction of the hair can result.
  • hair and scalp are parts of the body that are exposed to a significant amount of UV radiation due to their position when they are outdoors.
  • a goal of hair care is to maintain the natural state of freshly regrown hair for as long a period as possible and to restore it in the event of loss.
  • Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feeling are characteristics of natural, healthy hair.
  • Products for hair care have been developed specifically since the end of the last century. This has resulted in a variety of preparations for both general hair care and for eliminating hair and scalp abnormalities.
  • hair care cosmetics are used nowadays which are either intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure or which are intended to remain on the hair.
  • the latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of a hairstyle. Hair cared for in this way is characterized by a pleasant handle, natural shine, increased fullness, suppleness and thus good manageability and strength and thus good hairstyle fit.
  • Modern cleaning products for hair cleaning generally consist of water, surfactants, thickeners, auxiliaries and care components.
  • oils preferably silicone oils
  • these formulations represent emulsions, which accordingly also have a white, creamy appearance.
  • complex formulation technology is required.
  • Another disadvantage is that the silicone oil used pulls on the hair, which the above. Provides care effects, but with frequent hair washing there is also a depot-forming effect of the oil on the hair: a layer of silicone oil forms on the hair with each use. With regular use of such an emulsion, this leads to a decrease in the hair volume and fullness due to the increasing weighting of the hair with oil.
  • the use of starch derivatives has also not been able to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art described in the past.
  • cosmetic hair cleansing agents containing one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • excellent care results were obtained which are at least equivalent to the care performance of a silicone shampoo.
  • the invention also encompasses the use of one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives to improve the combability, the volume, the fullness, the gloss, the feel of with cationic polymers and non-ionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants-containing hair cleaning agents treated hair.
  • pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives are hydroxypropylated phosphate esters, very particularly preferred
  • pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives is 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.3-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight.
  • Hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that the content of cationic polymers 0.1-
  • Polymeric quaternized polymers are particularly preferred as cationic polymers
  • Ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose which is modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, use depolymerized and then quaternized guar gum derivatives and / or quaternized guar derivatives.
  • Hair cleansers or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they are nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic
  • Surfactants ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols with 12 to 14 and / or
  • Alkylamidopropylbetaine can be used.
  • hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they also contain further surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.
  • hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives.
  • Starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous are, particularly advantageous hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate.
  • polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose which has been modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide and has the INCI name.
  • Polyquaternium-10 such as those offered by Amerchol under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400, or the use of depolymerized guar gum derivatives which are quaternized, for example those with the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, such as those under the name Jaguar Excel distributed by Rhodia.
  • the combination of starch derivatives with the polymers mentioned synergistically improves the smoothness-enhancing care properties without weighing the hair down. The hair also has a pleasant feel and is easy to style.
  • the hair cosmetic detergents and preparations which contain active ingredients according to the invention are topical preparations. These can be composed as usual and can be used to treat and care for the scalp and / or hair or as a sunscreen preparation.
  • the preparations according to the invention are applied to the scalp and hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and hair cleansing agents.
  • Preparations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously be present as emulsions or solutions.
  • agents according to the invention can be present, for example, as preparations which can be dosed from squeeze bottles or by means of a pump or spray device, but also in particular in the form of an agent which can be applied from normal bottles and containers.
  • Preparations according to the invention which represent hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for the hair or the scalp, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary agents, as are usually used for this.
  • the surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.
  • aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention or the aqueous cleaning certain low-water or water-free detergent concentrates anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example, conventional "soaps such as fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulphoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates , Amidosulfobetaine, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amidobetaines, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.
  • anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants for example, conventional "soaps such as fatty acid salts of sodium
  • Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight.
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Henkel or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco.
  • Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucoside as it is offered by the company Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10 or polysorbate 80 as it is offered by the company ICI under the name Tween 80.
  • Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight.
  • Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goldschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc.
  • Conditioning aids may also be present in the hair cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are often used in shampoos, for example with a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight. These include polyquaternium-0 as it is offered under the name Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as it is offered with the name Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
  • the preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, lipid-replenishing agents, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols , Polyols and their toxicologically compatible ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, consistency agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
  • Solution brokers e.g. for incorporating hydrophobic components such as of perfume preparation
  • the total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as further antioxidants.
  • the total amount of the antioxidants is, for example, 0.000.001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g. ⁇
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, Hexa-, heptathionesulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • Humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations places that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or the skin, especially the scalp.
  • the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations places that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or the skin, especially the scalp.
  • the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can advantageously be water-soluble.
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filters include:
  • Triethanolammonium salt as well as the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid itself;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UV-A filters can also be advantageous to add UV-A filters to the preparations according to the invention which have hitherto usually been found in cosmetic preparations.
  • the quantities used for the UV-B combination can be used.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be prepared in the customary manner by mixing the individual constituents.
  • the active ingredients of the combinations according to the invention or the premixed components of the combinations according to the invention can be added in the mixing process.
  • the pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or bases, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, for example based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer mixtures.
  • the pH is preferably below 10, for example in the range 4-8, in particular in the range 5-7.
  • the amounts in the examples are% by weight based on the total weight of the respective preparation.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic hair cleaning agents that contain one or more pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and non-ionic, amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg
HAARSHAMPOO VORGEATINISERTE, QUERVENETZTE STÄRKEDERIVATE ENTHALTENDHAIR SHAMPOO CONTAINING PRE-PRINCESSED, CROSS-NETWORKED STARCH DERIVATIVES
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische Haarshampoos mit verbesserter Haarpflegeleistung, insbesondere solche einem Gehalt an Stärkederivaten, die eine besonders verbesserte Kämmbarkeit, Haarvolumen bzw. Fülle, Glanz und verbesserten Griff bei ihrer Anwendung erzielen.The present invention relates to cosmetic hair shampoos with improved hair care performance, in particular those containing starch derivatives which achieve particularly improved combability, hair volume or fullness, shine and improved feel when used.
Der ganze menschliche Körper mit Ausnahme der Lippen, der Handinnenflächen und der Fußsohlen ist behaart, zum Großteil allerdings mit kaum sichtbaren Wollhärchen. Wegen der vielen Nervenenden an der Haarwurzel reagieren Haare empfindlich auf äußere Einflüsse wie Wind oder Berührung und sind daher ein nicht zu unterschätzender Bestandteil des Tastsinns. Die wichtigste Funktion des menschlichen Kopfhaares dürfte allerdings heute darin bestehen, das Aussehen des Menschen in charakteristischer Weise mitzugestalten. Ähnlich wie die Haut erfüllt es eine soziale Funktion, da es über sein Erscheinungsbild erheblich zu zwischenmenschlichen Beziehungen und zum Selbstwertgefühl des Individuums beiträgt.The entire human body, with the exception of the lips, the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, is hairy, but for the most part with barely visible wool hairs. Because of the many nerve endings at the hair root, hair is sensitive to external influences such as wind or touch and is therefore a part of the sense of touch that should not be underestimated. The most important function of the human head hair today, however, should be to help shape the human appearance in a characteristic way. Similar to the skin, it fulfills a social function, since its appearance makes a significant contribution to interpersonal relationships and the self-esteem of the individual.
Das Haar besteht aus dem frei aus der Haut herausragenden Haarschaft - dem keratini- sierten (toten) Teil, der das eigentlich sichtbare Haar darstellt — und der in der Haut steckenden Haarwurzel - dem lebenden Teil, in dem das sichtbare Haar ständig neu gebildet wird. Der Haarschaft seinerseits ist aus drei Schichten aufgebaut: einem zentralen Teil - dem sogenannten Haarmark (Medulla), welches allerdings beim Menschen zurückgebildet ist und oft gänzlich fehlt - ferner dem Mark (Cortex) und der äußeren, bis zu zehn Lagen starken Schuppenschicht (Cuticula), die das ganze Haar umhüllt.The hair consists of the hair shaft protruding freely from the skin - the keratinized (dead) part, which actually represents the visible hair - and the hair root stuck in the skin - the living part, in which the visible hair is constantly being newly formed. The hair shaft, for its part, is made up of three layers: a central part - the so-called hair mark (medulla), which, however, is regressed in humans and is often completely absent - as well as the marrow (cortex) and the outer cuticle layer (cuticle) up to ten layers thick that covers the whole hair.
Das menschliche Haar ist, sofern keine krankhaften Veränderungen vorliegen, in seinem frisch nachgewachsenen Zustand praktisch nicht zu verbessern. Der in der Nähe der Kopf-haut befindliche Teil eines Haares weist dementsprechend eine nahezu geschlossene Schuppenschicht auf. Insbesondere die Schuppenschicht als Außenhülle des Haares, aber auch der innere Bereich unterhalb der Cuticula sind besonderer Beanspruchung durch Umwelteinflüsse ausgesetzt.Unless there are pathological changes, human hair can practically not be improved in its newly grown state. The part of a hair located near the scalp accordingly has an almost closed cuticle layer. In particular the cuticle layer as the outer shell of the hair, but also the inner area below the cuticle are particularly exposed to environmental influences.
Wesentliche Einflüsse für den Qualitätsverlust eines Haares während seiner Alterung sind der Einfluß des Sonnenlichts, mechanische Belastungen durch intensives Kämmen oder Bürsten, aber auch Haarbehandlungen, wie Haarfärbungen und insbesondere Blondierungen sowie Haarverformungen, beispielsweise Dauerwellverfahren. Besonders oxidative Belastungen führen demnach häufig zu einer Schädigung des Haares.Significant influences for the loss of quality of a hair during its aging are the influence of sunlight, mechanical stress due to intensive combing or brushing, but also hair treatments, such as hair coloring and in particular bleaching, as well as hair shaping, for example permanent wave processes. Oxidative loads in particular often damage the hair.
Sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung haben einen schädigenden Einfluß auf das Haar, der sich beispielsweise darin äußert, daß bestimmte Aminosäuren wie Cystin und Methionin abgebaut oder Schwefel-Schwefel-Bindungen des Keratins gespalten werden, was im schlimmsten Fall eine Zerstörung des Haars zur Folge haben kann. Weiterhin stellen Haar und Kopfhaut Teile des Körpers dar, die aufgrund ihrer Position beim Aufenthalt im Freien einer erheblichen Menge an UV-Strahlung ausgesetzt sind.Both UV-A and UV-B radiation have a damaging effect on the hair, which manifests itself, for example, in the fact that certain amino acids such as cystine and methionine are broken down or sulfur-sulfur bonds of keratin are broken, which in the worst case is a Destruction of the hair can result. Furthermore, hair and scalp are parts of the body that are exposed to a significant amount of UV radiation due to their position when they are outdoors.
Ein Ziel der Haarpflege ist es, den Naturzustand des frisch nachgewachsenen Haares über einen möglichst langen Zeitraum zu erhalten und im Fall eines Verluste wieder herzustellen. Seidiger Glanz, geringe Porosität und ein angenehmes, glattes Gefühl gelten als Merkmale für natürliches, gesundes Haar.A goal of hair care is to maintain the natural state of freshly regrown hair for as long a period as possible and to restore it in the event of loss. Silky shine, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feeling are characteristics of natural, healthy hair.
Seit Ende des vergangenen Jahrhunderts werden Produkte zur Haarpflege gezielt entwickelt. Dies führte zu einer Vielzahl von Präparaten sowohl für die allgemeine Haarpflege als auch zur Behebung von Anomalien des Haares und der Kopfhaut. Im allgemeinen werden heutzutage Haarpflegekosmetika verwendet, welche entweder dazu bestimmt sind, nach dem Einwirken aus dem Haar wieder ausgespült zu werden, oder welche auf dem Haar verbleiben sollen. Letztere können so formuliert werden, daß sie nicht nur der Pflege des einzelnen Haars dienen, sondern auch das Aussehen einer Frisur insgesamt verbessern. Solcherart gepflegtes Haar zeichnet sich durch einen angenehmen Griff, natürlichen Glanz, vermehrte Fülle, Geschmeidigkeit und somit gute Frisierbarkeit und Festigkeit und somit gutem Frisurensitz aus. Moderne Reinigungsprodukte für die Haarreinigung bestehen im Allgemeinen aus Wasser, Tensiden, Verdickern, Hilfsstoffen und Pflegekomponenten. Besonders den Pflegekomponenten kommt in neuerer Zeit eine hohe Bedeutung zu, da der Verbraucher, besonders jener mit strapaziertem oder geschädigtem Haar, eine sehr hohe Pflegeleistung erwartet. Pflege ist hierbei gleichbedeutend mit den biophysikalischen Parametern Kämmbarkeit, Volumen, Fülle, Glanz, Griff. Um eine entsprechend hohe Pflegeleistung zu erhalten, können Öle, bevorzugt Silikonöle, in die Shampooformulierungen eingearbeitet werden. Formal stellen diese Formulierungen Emulsionen dar, die dementsprechend auch ein weißes, cremiges Aussehen aufweisen. Um diese Emulsionen stabil herzustellen bedarf es jedoch einer aufwendigen Formulierungstechnologie.Products for hair care have been developed specifically since the end of the last century. This has resulted in a variety of preparations for both general hair care and for eliminating hair and scalp abnormalities. In general, hair care cosmetics are used nowadays which are either intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure or which are intended to remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of a hairstyle. Hair cared for in this way is characterized by a pleasant handle, natural shine, increased fullness, suppleness and thus good manageability and strength and thus good hairstyle fit. Modern cleaning products for hair cleaning generally consist of water, surfactants, thickeners, auxiliaries and care components. The care components in particular have recently become very important because the consumer, especially those with damaged or damaged hair, expects a very high level of care performance. Care is synonymous with the biophysical parameters of combability, volume, fullness, shine, feel. In order to obtain a correspondingly high level of care, oils, preferably silicone oils, can be incorporated into the shampoo formulations. Formally, these formulations represent emulsions, which accordingly also have a white, creamy appearance. In order to produce these emulsions stably, however, complex formulation technology is required.
Ein weitere Nachteil besteht darin, dass das eingesetzte Silikonöl zwar auf das Haar aufzieht, was die o.g. Pflegeeffekte liefert, es aber bei häufiger Haarwäsche auch zu einem Depot bildenden Effekt des Öls auf dem Haar kommt: auf dem Haar bildet sich eine bei jeder Anwendung wachsende Schicht aus Silikonöl. Dies führt bei regelmäßiger Anwendung einer solchen Emulsion zu einer Abnahme des Haarvolumens und der Fülle aufgrund der zunehmenden Beschwerung des Haares mit Öl. Auch der Einsatz von Stärkederivaten konnte in der Vergangenheit den geschilderten Nachteilen des Standes der Technik nicht abhelfen.Another disadvantage is that the silicone oil used pulls on the hair, which the above. Provides care effects, but with frequent hair washing there is also a depot-forming effect of the oil on the hair: a layer of silicone oil forms on the hair with each use. With regular use of such an emulsion, this leads to a decrease in the hair volume and fullness due to the increasing weighting of the hair with oil. The use of starch derivatives has also not been able to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art described in the past.
Es wurde überraschend und für den Fachmann nicht vorhersehbar festgestellt, dass kosmetische Haarreinigungsmittel enthaltend ein oder mehrere vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate, kationische Polymere und nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionische Tenside den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. Durch den Einsatz der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen wurden hervorragende Pflegeleistungen erhalten, die der Pflegeleistung eines Siliconshampoos mindestens gleichwertig sind.It has been found, surprisingly and unpredictably for the person skilled in the art, that cosmetic hair cleansing agents containing one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. By using the preparations according to the invention, excellent care results were obtained which are at least equivalent to the care performance of a silicone shampoo.
Diese weisen auch nicht die Depot bildenden, das Haar beschwerenden Effekte von Emulsionsshampoos auf, sondern führen auch bei häufiger und regelmäßiger Anwendung zu einer hervorragenden Pflegeleistung bei Fülle und Volumen. Auf diese Weise können auch transparente Formulierungen hergestellt werden. Die Erfindung umfaßt auch die Verwendung von einem oder mehreren vorgelatinisierten, quervernetzten Stärkederivaten zur Verbesserung der Kämmbarkeit, des Volumens, der Fülle, des Glanzes, des Griffs von mit kationische Polymere und nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionische Tenside enthaltenden Haarreinigungsmitteln behandelten Haares.These also do not have the depot-forming, hair-weighing effects of emulsion shampoos, but also lead to excellent care in terms of volume and volume, even with frequent and regular use. Transparent formulations can also be produced in this way. The invention also encompasses the use of one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives to improve the combability, the volume, the fullness, the gloss, the feel of with cationic polymers and non-ionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants-containing hair cleaning agents treated hair.
Besonders bevorzugt werden als vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate hydroxypropylierte Phosphatester, ganz besonders bevorzugtParticularly preferred as pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives are hydroxypropylated phosphate esters, very particularly preferred
Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphate eingesetzt.Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphate used.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Haarreinigungsmittel oderHair cleaners according to the invention or are very particularly preferred
Verwendungen dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an vorgelatinisierten, quervernetzten Stärkederivaten 0,1-20 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0,3-15 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5-10 Gew.% beträgt.Uses characterized in that the content of pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives is 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.3-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight.
Bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendungen dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an kationischen Polymeren 0,1-Hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that the content of cationic polymers 0.1-
15 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0,2-8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,3-5 Gew.% beträgt.15% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight.
Besonders bevorzugt werden als kationische Polymere polymere quaternisiertePolymeric quaternized polymers are particularly preferred as cationic polymers
Ammoniumsalze von Hydroxyethylcellulose, welche mit einem trimethylammonium- substituierten Epoxid modifiziert ist, depolymerisierte und anschließend quaternisierte Guar Gumm Derivate und/oder quaternisierte Guarderivate verwendet.Ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, use depolymerized and then quaternized guar gum derivatives and / or quaternized guar derivatives.
Bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendungen dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionischeHair cleansers or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they are nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic
Tenside ethoxylierte und sulfatierte Fettalkoholen mit 12 bis 14 und/oderSurfactants ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols with 12 to 14 and / or
Alkylamidopropylbetain verwendet werden.Alkylamidopropylbetaine can be used.
Weiterhin bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendungen dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß zusätzlich weitere Tenside und/oder kosmetische oder dermatologische Hilfs-, Zusatz- und/oder Wirkstoffe enthalten sind.Furthermore, hair cleansing agents or uses according to the invention are preferably characterized in that they also contain further surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.
Zwar beschreibt die US 6248338 kosmetische Zubereitungen mit vorgelatinisierten, quervernetzten Stärkederivaten, doch konnte diese Schrift nicht den Weg zur vorliegenden Erfindung weisen.US 6248338 describes cosmetic preparations with pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, but this document could not point the way to the present invention.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, wenn als vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate hydroxypropylierte Phosphatester eingesetzt werden. Insbesondere vorteilhaft sind solche Stärkederivate, wie sie in der US 6248338 beschrieben werden, besonders vorteilhaft Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphat. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist dabei der Einsatz eines Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphates, wie es als Produkt Structure® XL der Firma National Starch verkauft wird.It is advantageous according to the invention if hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. Starch derivatives such as those described in US Pat. No. 6,248,338 are particularly advantageous are, particularly advantageous hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate. The use of a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate, as sold as the Structure® XL product by National Starch, is very particularly preferred.
Vorteilhaft ist der Einsatz von polymeren quaternisierten Ammoniumsalzen von Hydroxyethylcellulose, welche mit einem trimethylammonium-substituierten Epoxid modifiziert ist mit der INCI-Bezeichnung . Polyquaternium-10, wie sie unter der Bezeichnung Ucare Polymer JR 400 von der Gesellschaft Amerchol angeboten werden oder der Einsatz von depolymerisierten Guar Gumm Derivaten, die quaternisiert sind, beispiesweise solche mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chlorid, wie sie unter der Bezeichnung Jaguar Excel von der Gesellschaft Rhodia vertrieben werden. Dabei verbessert die Kombination von Stärkederivaten mit den genannten Polymeren die geschmeidigkeitsverbessernden Pflegeeigenschaften in synergistischer Weise, ohne das Haar zu beschweren. Gleichfalls erhält das Haar ein angenhmes Griffempfinden und läßt sich gut frisieren.It is advantageous to use polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose which has been modified with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide and has the INCI name. Polyquaternium-10, such as those offered by Amerchol under the name Ucare Polymer JR 400, or the use of depolymerized guar gum derivatives which are quaternized, for example those with the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, such as those under the name Jaguar Excel distributed by Rhodia. The combination of starch derivatives with the polymers mentioned synergistically improves the smoothness-enhancing care properties without weighing the hair down. The hair also has a pleasant feel and is easy to style.
Die haarkosmetischen Reinigungsmittel und Zubereitungen, die erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffe enthalten, sind topische Zubereitungen. Diese können wie üblich zusammengesetzt sein und zur Behandlung und der Pflege der Kopfhaut und/oder der Haare oder als Lichtschutzpräparat dienen. Zur Anwendung werden die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen in der für Kosmetika und Haarreinigungsmittel üblichen Weise auf die Kopfhaut und die Haare in ausreichender Menge aufgebracht.The hair cosmetic detergents and preparations which contain active ingredients according to the invention are topical preparations. These can be composed as usual and can be used to treat and care for the scalp and / or hair or as a sunscreen preparation. For use, the preparations according to the invention are applied to the scalp and hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and hair cleansing agents.
Vorteilhaft können Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung als Emulsionen oder Lösungen vorliegen.Preparations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously be present as emulsions or solutions.
Die .Mittel gemäß der Erfindung können beispielsweise als aus Quetschflaschen oder durch eine Pump- oder Sprühvorrichtung dosierbare Präparate vorliegen, jedoch auch insbesondere in Form eines aus normalen Flaschen und Behältern auftragbaren Mittels.The agents according to the invention can be present, for example, as preparations which can be dosed from squeeze bottles or by means of a pump or spray device, but also in particular in the form of an agent which can be applied from normal bottles and containers.
Erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen, die haarkosmetische Reinigungszubereitungen für das Haar bzw. die Kopfhaut darstellen, können in flüssiger oder fester Form vorliegen. Sie enthalten vorzugsweise mindestens eine anionische, nicht-ionische oder amphotere oberflächenaktive Substanz oder Gemische daraus, gegebenenfalls einen Elektrolyten und Hilfsmittel, wie sie üblicherweise dafür verwendet werden. Die oberflächenaktive Substanz kann in einer Konzentration zwischen 1 und 94 Gew.-% in den Reinigungszubereitungen vorliegen, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, insbesondere aber zwischen 1 und 50 Gew.-%.Preparations according to the invention, which represent hair cosmetic cleaning preparations for the hair or the scalp, can be in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary agents, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.
Insbesondere können erfindungsgemäße wäßrige kosmetische Reinigungsmittel oder für die wäßrige Reinigung bestimmte wasserarme oder wasserfreie Reinigungsmittelkonzentrate anionische, nichtionische und/oder amphotere Tenside enthalten, beispielsweise herkömmliche' Seifen, z.B. Fettsäuresalze des Natriums, Alkylsulfate, Alkylethersulfate, Alkan- und Alkylbenzolsulfonate, Sulfoacetate, Sulfobetaine, Sarcosinate, Amidosulfobetaine, Sulfosuccinate, Sulfobernsteinsäurehalbester, Alkylethercarboxylate, Eiweiß-Fettsäure-Kondensate, Alkylbetaine und Amidobetaine, Fettsäurealkanolamide, Polyglycolether-Derivate enthalten.In particular, aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention or the aqueous cleaning certain low-water or water-free detergent concentrates anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example, conventional "soaps such as fatty acid salts of sodium, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulphoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarcosinates , Amidosulfobetaine, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amidobetaines, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.
Anionische Tenside werden vorzugsweise in Konzentrationenzwischen 5 Gew.-% und 20 Gew.-% eingesetzt. In Frage kommen z.B. Sodium Laureth Sulfate wie es unter der Bezeichnung Texapon N 70 von der Gesellschaft Henkel angeboten wird oder Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate wie es unter der Bezeichnung Rewopol SBFA 30 von der Gesellschaft Witco angeboten wird. Nichtionische Tenside werden vorzugsweise in Konzentrationen von 1 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-% eingesetzt. Beispiele sind Decyl Glucoside wie es unter der Bezeichnung Oramix NS 10 von der Gesellschaft Seppic angeboten wird oder Polysorbate 80 wie es unter der Bezeichnung Tween 80 von der Gesellschaft ICI angeboten wird.Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations between 5% and 20% by weight. For example, Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Henkel or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco. Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucoside as it is offered by the company Seppic under the name Oramix NS 10 or polysorbate 80 as it is offered by the company ICI under the name Tween 80.
Amphotere Tenside werden vorzugsweise in Konzentrationen von 1 Gew.-% bis 10 Gew.-% eingesetzt. Beispiele sind Cocamidopropyl Betaine wie es als Tego Betain von der Gesellschaft Goldschmidt angeboten wird oder Sodium Cocoamphoacetate wie es unter der Bezeichnung Miranol Ultra von der Gesellschaft Rhone Poulenc angeboten wird.Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goldschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulenc.
Die Prozentangaben beziehen sich auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Weiterhin können in den haarkosmetischen Reinigungsmitteln Konditionierhilfsmittel enthalten sein, z.B. in Mengen von 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Zu den bevorzugten Konditionierhilfsmitteln gehören polymere quatemäre Verbindungen (Quats). Polymere Quats werden vielfach in Shampoos z.B. mit einer Konzentration von 0,01 bis 2 Gew.-% eingesetzt. Dazu gehören Polyquatemium- 0 wie es unter der Bezeichnung Polymer JR 400 von der Gesellschaft Amerchol angeboten wird oder Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride wie es mit der Bezeichnung Jaguar C 162 von der Gesellschaft Rhone-Poulenc angeboten wird.The percentages relate to the total weight of the preparations. Conditioning aids may also be present in the hair cosmetic cleaning agents, for example in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. The preferred conditioning aids include polymeric quaternary compounds (quats). Polymer quats are often used in shampoos, for example with a concentration of 0.01 to 2% by weight. These include polyquaternium-0 as it is offered under the name Polymer JR 400 by the company Amerchol or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride as it is offered with the name Jaguar C 162 by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Hilfsstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Konservierungsmittel, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Schaumstabilisatoren, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die eine färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuch- haltende Substanzen, rückfettende Agentien, Fette, Öle, Wachse, Alkohole, Polyole und deren toxikologisch verträglichen Ether und Ester, verzweigte und/oder unverzweigte Kohlenwasserstoffe, weitere Antioxidantien, Stabilisatoren, pH-Wert-Regulatoren, Konsistenzgeber, Bakterizide, Desodorantien, antimikrobielle Stoffe, Antistatika, UV- Absorber, Komplexierungs- und Sequestrierungsagentien, Perlglanzagentien, Polymere, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel, Silikonderivate, Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine und/oder andere Wirkstoffe oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung. Auch Lösungsvermittler, z.B. zur Einarbeitung hydrophober Komponenten wie z.B. von Parfümzubereitungen können enthalten sein.The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, lipid-replenishing agents, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols , Polyols and their toxicologically compatible ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH regulators, consistency agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, antistatic agents, UV absorbers, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents, silicone derivatives, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation. Solution brokers, e.g. for incorporating hydrophobic components such as of perfume preparations can be included.
Die Gesamtmenge der Hilfsstoffe beträgt beispielsweise 0,001 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The total amount of auxiliaries is, for example, 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
Der Wassergehalt der Zubereitungen beträgt beispielsweise 50 bis 95 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 55 bis 90 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung. Erfindungsgemäß können als weitere Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.The water content of the preparations is, for example, 50 to 95% by weight, preferably 55 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the invention, all antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as further antioxidants.
Die Gesamtmenge der Antioxidantien beträgt beispielsweise 0,000.001 bis 2 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The total amount of the antioxidants is, for example, 0.000.001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
Vorteilhaft, werden weitere Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Urocaninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Carnosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, Lycopin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Cholesteryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthio- dipropionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleotide, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthionin- sulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathio- ninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. -Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α -Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäμre), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A-palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α-Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydro- xytoluol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Tri- hydroxybutyrophenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO ) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethio- nin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die er- findungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleo- side, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.Advantageously, further antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, penta-, Hexa-, heptathionesulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) , Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytol , Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, tri-hydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivative e (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the Derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients mentioned.
Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen außerdem Substanzen enthalten, die UV-Strahlung im UV-B-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,001 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,1 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, um kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die das Haar bzw. die Haut vor dem gesamten Bereich der ultravioletten Strahlung schützen. Sie können auch als Sonnenschutzmittel fürs Haar oder.die Haut, insbesondere die Kopfhaut dienen.Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.001% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations places that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens for the hair or the skin, especially the scalp.
Enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Emulsionen UV-B-Filtersubstanzen, können diese vorteilhaft wasserlöslich sein. Vorteilhafte wasserlösliche UV-B-Filter sind z.B.:If the emulsions according to the invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can advantageously be water-soluble. Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filters include:
Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium-- oder ihrSalts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or
Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure selbst;Triethanolammonium salt, as well as the 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid itself;
Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen mit UV-A-Filtern zu versetzen, die bisher üblicherweise in kosmetischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Es können die für die UV-B-Kombination verwendeten Mengen eingesetzt werden.It can also be advantageous to add UV-A filters to the preparations according to the invention which have hitherto usually been found in cosmetic preparations. The quantities used for the UV-B combination can be used.
Die Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen kann in der üblichen Weise durch Mischen der einzelnen Bestandteile erfolgen. Die Wirkstoffe der erfindungsgemäßen Kombinationen oder auch die vorgemischten Bestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Kombinationen können im Mischvorgang zugegeben werden.The preparations according to the invention can be prepared in the customary manner by mixing the individual constituents. The active ingredients of the combinations according to the invention or the premixed components of the combinations according to the invention can be added in the mixing process.
Der pH-Wert der Zubereitungen kann in bekannter Weise durch Zugabe von Säuren oder Basen eingestellt werden, vorzugsweise durch Zugabe von Puffergemischen, z.B. auf Basis von Citronensäure/Citrat oder Phosphorsäure Phosphat-Puffergemischen. Vorzugsweise liegt der pH-Wert unter 10, z.B. im Bereich von 4-8, insbesondere im Bereich von 5 - 7.The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by adding acids or bases, preferably by adding buffer mixtures, for example based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric acid / phosphate buffer mixtures. The pH is preferably below 10, for example in the range 4-8, in particular in the range 5-7.
Alle Mengenangaben, Anteile und Prozentanteile sind, soweit nicht anders angegeben, auf das Gewicht und die Gesamtmenge bzw. auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen oder der jeweiligen Mischung bezogen.Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.
Die folgenden Beispiele verdeutlichen die Erfindung.The following examples illustrate the invention.
Die Mengenangaben in den Beispielen sind Gew.-% bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der jeweiligen Zubereitung. The amounts in the examples are% by weight based on the total weight of the respective preparation.
Beispiele für Haarshämpooformulierungen:Examples of hair shampoo formulations:

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische Haarreinigungsmittel enthaltend ein oder mehrere vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate, kationische Polymere und nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionische Tenside.1. Cosmetic hair cleaners containing one or more pre-gelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives, cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants.
2. Verwendung von einem oder mehreren vorgelatinisierten, quervernetzten Stärkederivaten zur Verbesserung der Kämmbarkeit, des Volumens, der Fülle, des Glanzes, des Griffs von mit kationische Polymere und nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionische Tenside enthaltenden Haarreinigungsmitteln,, behandelten Haares.2. Use of one or more pre-gelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives to improve the combability, the volume, the fullness, the shine, the feel of hair treated with cationic polymers and nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants containing hair cleaning agents.
3. Zubereitung oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate hydroxypropylierte Phosphatester eingesetzt werden.3. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives.
4. Zubereitung oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass als vorgelatinisiertes, quervernetztes Stärkederivat Hydroxypropyldistärkephosphat (CAS Nummer 113894-92-1) eingesetzt wird.4. Preparation or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate (CAS number 113894-92-1) is used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivative.
5. Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an vorgelatinisierten, quervernetzten Stärkederivaten 0,1-20 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0,3-15 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5-10 Gew.% beträgt.5. Hair cleaning agent or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.3-15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight is.
6. Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Gehalt an kationischen Polymeren 0,1-15 Gew.%, bevorzugt 0,2-8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,3-5 Gew.% beträgt.6. Hair cleaning agent or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic polymers is 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.3-5% by weight.
7. Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als kationische Polymere polymere quaternisierte Ammoniumsalze von Hydroxyethylcellulose, welche mit einem trimethylammonium-substituierten Epoxid modifiziert ist, depolymerisierte und anschließend quaternisierte Guar Gumm Derivate und/oder quaternisierte Guarderivate verwendet werden.7. Hair cleanser or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as cationic polymers polymeric quaternized ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose, which with a trimethylammonium-substituted epoxy is modified, depolymerized and then quaternized guar gum derivatives and / or quaternized guar derivatives are used.
8. Haarreinigungsmittel oder Verwendung nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als nichtionische, amphotere und/oder anionische Tenside ethoxylierte und sulfatierte Fettalkoholen mit 12 bis 14 und/oder Alkylamidopropylbetain verwendet werden.8. Hair cleanser or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols containing 12 to 14 and / or alkylamidopropylbetaine are used as nonionic, amphoteric and / or anionic surfactants.
9. Haarpflegemittel nach einem der vorangehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß zusätzlich weitere Tenside und/oder kosmetische oder dermatologische Hilfs-, Zusatz- und/oder Wirkstoffe enthalten sind. 9. Hair care product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that additional surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients are included.
EP03722431A 2002-04-11 2003-04-09 Hair shampoo containing pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives Ceased EP1496843A1 (en)

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DE10216497A DE10216497A1 (en) 2002-04-11 2002-04-11 shampoo
PCT/EP2003/003680 WO2003084488A1 (en) 2002-04-11 2003-04-09 Hair shampoo containing pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives

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