EP1485061A1

EP1485061A1 - Oil phases for cosmetic agents

Info

Publication number: EP1485061A1
Application number: EP03706611A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Daniela Prinz; David Herault; Anne-Sophie Wavreille
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Current assignee: Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date: 2002-03-21
Filing date: 2003-03-12
Publication date: 2004-12-15
Also published as: DE10212528A1; US20060008482A1; AU2003208705A1; WO2003080013A1; JP2005526782A

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing an aqueous phase and an oil phase, said oil phase entirely or partially consisting of compounds of general formula (I) wherein R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising between 8 and 22 C atoms, and R' represents an alkyl radical comprising between 1 and 4 C atoms.

Description

Oil phases for cosmetic products

The invention relates to novel oil bodies based on certain silane derivatives which can be easily incorporated into cosmetic preparations and which enable the production of storage-stable emulsions.

In the field of cosmetic emulsions for skin and hair care, the consumer places a multitude of requirements: apart from the cleaning and care effects that determine the intended use, value is placed on parameters as diverse as the highest possible dermatological compatibility, good moisturizing properties, elegant appearance, optimal sensory impression and storage stability.

Preparations that are used to clean and care for human skin and hair usually contain a number of surface-active substances, especially oil and water. For example, hydrocarbons, ester oils and vegetable and animal oils / fats / waxes are used as oil bodies / emollients. In order to meet the high demands of the market with regard to sensory properties and optimal dermatological compatibility, new oil bodies and emulsifier mixtures are continuously being developed and tested.

The object of the present invention was to provide new emollients for cosmetic applications, which in particular enables the production of storage-stable products.

The invention therefore relates to cosmetic compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oil phase, the oil phase completely or partially containing compounds of the general formula (I) RO-Si (R ') 2- OR in the R for a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated Alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and R 'is an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

DE-OS-21 18 378 discloses the use of compounds of the general formula (I) as a protective agent against skin damage to dog paws. However, the specifically disclosed formulations do not contain water; rather, solutions of the compounds of the formula (I) in halogenated aliphatic hydrocarbons or isopropanol or with blowing agents such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide are disclosed. Another object is the use of compounds of formula (I) as an oil phase in aqueous cosmetic products. The compounds of formula (I) act as emollients, ie they have the property of making the skin softer and more supple.

The compounds of formula (I) as such are known. They can be obtained in the usual ways of synthetic organic chemistry. One way of synthesizing them is, for example, via the dihalodimethylsilanes, preferably via dichlorodimethylsilane, which is reacted with alcohols in the presence of bases. In the end, the largely acid-free compounds of the formula (I) are obtained. The variation of the radical R is consequently carried out by selection of the alcohol component, monofunctional, saturated alcohols with chain lengths of 8 to 22 carbon atoms being preferred. In principle, however, unsaturated alcohols can also be reacted. The radical R preferably contains 10 to 16 and in particular 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Furthermore, it is preferred that the radical R in the formula (I) is branched. Compounds of the formula (I) in which R 'represents a methyl radical are particularly preferred. Compounds of the formula (I) whose radical R is based on butyl octanol have proven to be particularly suitable oil components for the purposes of the present invention.

The compounds of formula (I) used according to the invention allow the production of stable cosmetic emulsions. These are preferably personal care formulations, e.g. B. creams, milks, lotions, sprayable emulsions, products for eliminating body odor etc. The compounds of the invention can also be used in surfactant-containing formulations such. B. use foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and conditioners.

According to the definition of CIDESCO, cosmetic products are products that are used to beautify the skin, face and body. Accordingly, cosmetics are understood to mean all measures on the skin, its appendix organs and the perceivable mucous membranes for cleaning (including deodorization and antiperspiration), for preserving, preventive and improving care (including dental and oral care), for beautification, decoration or coloring (including the use of perfumes) and the plast. Surgery. Depending on the application, the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, surfactants, other oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV Light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, Self-tanners, tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes etc., which are listed below as examples.

In addition to the emollients according to the invention, the agents can preferably in particular contain emulsifiers. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are non-ionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

a) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with δ to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical b) alkyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogues c) addition products of 1 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil d) addition products of 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil e) partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide f) partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane , Pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. B. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 Carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide g) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol h) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their

Salts i) wool wax alcohols j) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives k) block copolymers z. B. polyethylene glycol-30 dipolyhydroxystearate I) polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich m) polyalkylene glycols and n) glycerol carbonate. Ethylenoxidanlaqerunqsprodukte

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / ιβ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

sorbitan

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, sorbitan come monoerucate, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantherucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, sorting bitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan titrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sorbitan sorbate and technical sorbitan sorbitan sorbate. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polvqlycerinester

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bel-ina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylamino-propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs / iβ-alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -Sθ3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and Ci∑-acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

The agents according to the invention can contain individual emulsifiers or mixtures of different emulsifiers. The emulsifiers are present in the compositions according to the invention in total from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. It is further preferred if the quantitative ratio of compounds of the formula (I) to the emulsifiers is in the range from 2: 1 to 1: 1. Preferred agents are those which contain 40 to 80% by weight of water, 10 to 50% by weight of compounds of the formula (I) and 10 to 30% by weight of emulsifiers. surfactants

Furthermore, surfactants can be contained in the agents according to the invention. These are selected from the group of anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Cosmetic preparations containing surfactants, such as shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., preferably contain at least one anionic surfactant. The proportion of surfactants here is usually about 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 25 and in particular 10 to 20% by weight.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are sulfonates, soaps, alkyl benzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether, methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, Glycerol ether, Fettsäureethersulfate, Hydroxymischethersulfate, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono - And dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid ethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactate latex, acyl tartarate acidates, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate fate, acyl glucosate partate, Wheat base) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or especially glucoronic acid protein derivatives, fatty acid glucoronic acid protein derivatives, and fatty acid glucoronic acid derivatives, vegetable glucoronic acid derivatives, and fatty acid glucoronic acid derivatives, vegetable glucoronic acid derivatives, and fatty acid glucoronic acid derivatives Wheat-based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews in this area. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid regulatamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Personal care products such as creams, lotions and milks usually contain a number of other oils and emollients that help to further optimize the sensory properties. The oil bodies or phases are preferably contained in the aqueous compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 1-50% by weight, preferably 5-25% by weight and in particular 5-15% by weight.

oil body

Additional compounds which may be considered as additional oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear Cβ-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C13 - Carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, rylpalmitat stearic, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, Isostearylmy- ristat, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, 0- leylerucat, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl nylbehenat, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, Erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear Cθ-C∑∑ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of Ci8-C38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cε-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di-triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids, esters of C6- C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols , substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as. B. Dica-prylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. B. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

Fats and waxes

Fats and waxes are added to the personal care products as care substances and also to increase the consistency of the cosmetics. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. H. solid or liquid vegetable or animal products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. H. Technical mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as glycone mono / dilaurate, palmitate or stearate, are suitable for this. As waxes come u. a. natural waxes such as B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin wax microcrystalline waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as. B. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The skilled worker understands the term lecithins to mean those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

Perlqlanzwachse

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total min. have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency indicator and thickener

Other possible consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and - diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as, for example, have also proven particularly effective. B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectoht and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or

Zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used. polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®IJGrünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitro-derivatives, such as quaternized chitro-derivatives , Condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert. Butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

In addition to the compounds of formula (I) according to the invention, the agents according to the invention may also contain further silicon-containing components. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylide) camphor.

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate (octocylenes)

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso-propylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylate

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester

> Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl-triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB)

> Propane-1,3-dione, such as B. 1- (4-tert-Butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenon-5-sulfonic acid and its salts

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters 4'-methoxy-dibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 -ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as. B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro - thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, Phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ -Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oil acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. As ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin , Ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. (eg selenium-methionine), stilbene and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.

Bioqene active ingredients

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudocleamides, extracts of essential oils, essential extracts such as B. Prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes to understand.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers. Anti-germ agents

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N ^' - (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4 ^' -Trichlor-2 ^' -hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl phenol, 2,2 ^{'-methylene-bis} (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4- chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^' trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol , Mint oil, famesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as. B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

> Enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, giutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Adipic acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

> Odor absorber

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which in addition to their function as odor maskers Deodorants give their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetal dehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the joonone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarine oil, cyclo-allyl oil, orange-oil alaline oil, orange-oil oil, orange-oil oil, orange-oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate used alone or in mixtures.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients

> Oil components > nonionic emulsifiers

> Co-emulsifiers

> Consistency generator

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorofiydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as Glycine. In addition, conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.

Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be: anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, for. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such. B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2-

(IH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-Acety I- 1 - {-4- [2- (2.4- dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethyleneglycolsorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole-dest , Salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.

Insect repellents

Examples of insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid-ethyl ester), which is known as Insect Repellent® 3535 is marketed by Merck KGaA, as well as butylacetylaminopropionate.

Self-tanners and depiqmentants

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are:

> Glycerin

> Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons > technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight

> Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose

> Aminosugars, such as glucamine

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propylate and benzylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionon and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and bal- same. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, lavender oil, orange glycolate, almond glycol, alanol glycol, alanol oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanol glycolate, alanol glycolate, alanecalcolate, orange oil, alanecalcolate, orange oil, aldolate, lamellar oil, orange oil, orange oil, orange oil, aldolate, lemon oil, orange oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, alanecalcone oil, orange oil, alanecalcone oil Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures.

Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, stemanis oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Kochillerot A (Cl 16255), patent blue V (C.1.42051), indigotine (C.1.73015), chlorophylline (C.1.75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (C.1.77891), indanthrene blue RS (Cl 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The cosmetic compositions can be produced in all ways known to the person skilled in the art. However, the compounds of formula (I) according to the invention are self-emulsifying, i.e. a stable emulsion can be produced by simply mechanically mixing the oil and water phases, if necessary with the addition of suitable emulsifiers. The agents according to the invention can be designed as an O / W or a W / O emulsion. Some of the compounds of the formula (I) have very low Brookfield viscosities (less than / equal to 10 mPa s) and are therefore particularly preferred for use in cosmetic products.

Another aspect of the present teaching relates to the use of the compounds of the formula (I) in non-aqueous cosmetic preparations, preferably in skin, care and baby oils. Such Agents either contain only the oil component alone, but preferably in a mixture with lower alcohols R "-OH, in which R represents an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably ethanol and / or propanol or isopropanol is also used. The weight ratio of Compounds of the formula (I) for the lower alcohols are in the range from 75:25 to 95: 5 and preferably from 80:20 to 90:10. When used in skin, care and baby oils, other compounds known to the person skilled in the art can also be used Ingredients for such agents are also used, for example caring plant extracts, preferably aloe vera, other skin-caring substances, for example tocopherol acetate, vitamins or perfume oils It may also be advantageous to add the compounds of the formula (I) with other oil bodies to form non-aqueous formulations In addition to the alcohols described above in this paragraph, all other oil bodies or emol known to the person skilled in the art are suitable for this purpose lients, especially the compounds listed above in the section "Oil bodies". The use of mineral oils can also be particularly advantageous. These mixtures may contain the compounds of the formula (I) in quantitative proportions with the other oil phases from 99: 1 to 1:99, preferably from 80:20 to 20:80 and in particular 50:50. Non-aqueous formulations mean that only small amounts of water, as brought in by the raw materials, are contained. This typically means 0.01 to a maximum of 2% by weight of water in the respective formulations, preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by weight and in particular less than 0.5% by weight of water.

The teaching of the present application therefore generally includes the use of the compounds of the formula (I) for the care of human skin.

example

Four O / W emulsions were prepared, the oil phases of which each had the following composition:

5.0 g of the compound of the formula (I) according to the invention, in which R 'is methyl and R each represents a butyloctanoyl radical (C12).

5.0 g emulsifier dioctyl ether (Cetiol OE, Cognis)

0.6g emulsifier cetylstearyl alcohol + 20-EO (Eumulgin B2, Cognis)

To prepare an emulsion and at the same time to adjust the pH, 10 g of an aqueous buffer solution were added, it being possible to set pH values of 3, 5, 7 and 11 for the four different emulsions. The emulsions were then homogenized and stored at 40 ° C. The four emulsions were found to be stable when stored for 50 days. No phase separation was observed.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic composition containing an aqueous and an oil phase, characterized in that the oil phase is wholly or partly compounds of the general formula (I)

RO-Si (R ') ₂ -OR (I)

in which R represents a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and R 'represents an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that R 'in formula (I) is a methyl radical.

3. Composition according to claims 1 to 2, characterized in that R in the formula (I) represents branched alkyl radicals.

4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that R in formula (I) is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 22, preferably 10 to 16 and in particular having 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that R in formula (I) represents a butyloctanoyl radical.

6. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains 99 to 50 wt .-% water and 1 to 50 wt .-% of the oil phase.

7. Composition according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is present as a W / O or as an O / W emulsion.

8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it additionally contains emulsifiers.

, Agent according to Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains emulsifiers in amounts of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 40 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.

10. Composition according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains 40 to 80 wt .-% water, 10 to 50 wt .-% of compounds of formula (I) and 10 to 30 wt .-% of emulsifiers.

11. Composition according to claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains the compounds of formula (I) and the emulsifiers in a ratio of 2: 1 to 1: 1.

12. Use of compounds of formula (I) according to claim 1 as an oil phase in cosmetic aqueous compositions.

13. Use of compounds of formula (I) in non-aqueous skin care products.

14. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the compounds of formula (I) are used in admixture with lower alcohols, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol.

15. Use according to claims 13 and 14, characterized in that mixtures of compounds of formula (I) and lower alcohols in a weight ratio of 75:25 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10 are used.

16. Use according to claim 13, characterized in that the compounds of formula (I) are used in admixture with other oil bodies.

17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the compounds of formula (I) are used with other oil bodies in a weight ratio of 99: 1 to 1:99, preferably in a weight ratio of 80:20 to 20:80 and in particular 50: 50th

18. Use of compounds of formula (I) for the care of human skin.