EP1476172A1

EP1476172A1 - Use of a biotechnological honey substitute in a cosmetic or dermatological composition

Info

Publication number: EP1476172A1
Application number: EP02704875A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Claude Dal Farra
Original assignee: Societe dExtraction des Principes Actifs SA
Current assignee: Vincience SA
Priority date: 2002-02-21
Filing date: 2002-02-21
Publication date: 2004-11-17
Also published as: WO2003077934A1; AU2002238681A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of an effective quantity of a honey substitute in a cosmetic or dermatological composition or for the preparation of one such composition. Said honey substitute is obtained by growing micro-organisms with sugars having a composition similar to that of honey. The honey substitute or the composition is intended to accelerate healing and to moisturise the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to the use in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a honey substitute obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey; the honey substitute or the composition being intended to accelerate healing and to hydrate the skin.

Long before the advent of modern medicine, honey was used not only as food, but also as medicine. Its development has long accompanied that of civilizations, because for thousands of years, honey was the only source of sweetness. The ancient Egyptians, but also the Assyrians, the Chinese, the Greeks and the Romans used honey for the treatment of wounds and stomach aches. More recently, the traditional therapeutic effects of honey have been studied. The anti-bacterial activities of honey have been confirmed, but also its action on wounds, ulcers and burns. Honey is a product of choice for many skin problems.

In cosmetics, honey is commonly used for its bactericidal and moisturizing properties and in the treatment of wounds. It is also used as a depigmenting or whitening agent for the treatment of pigmentary spots on the skin, acting directly on melanogenesis and as a keratόlytic agent to improve the radiance of the skin tone and treat wrinkles.

However, some scientists are beginning to question various factors such as the effects of pesticides on honey. Indeed, the massive development of pesticides in recent decades could have repercussions on honey. In addition, treatments used to treat certain diseases of bees (use of certain antibiotics: tetracyclines, etc.), could lead to changes in the quality of honey. On the other hand, the rise of genetically modified organisms poses many questions about the transmission of certain genes to insects. Finally, recent work has shown that the number of bees in France has halved in recent years, probably due to various pollutions and diseases, which has a direct impact on French honey production.

All these factors can encourage a sector of activity such as cosmetics to take certain precautions. It can therefore be seen that there remains a need for a compound close to honey, used as a substitute for honey, but without the drawbacks of the prior art. That is to say, without the questions, among others, on pollution, genetic modifications and supply.

The Applicant has unexpectedly found that certain microorganisms can, under certain conditions, provide a biotechnological substitute for honey, and that the application of an effective amount of such a biotechnological substitute for honey makes it possible to accelerate the healing.

The present invention therefore relates to the use in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars of which the composition is close to that of honey; the substitute or the composition being intended to accelerate the healing.

The present invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars of which the composition is close to that of honey; the substitute or the composition being intended for skin hydration.

Thereafter, the term “biotechnological honey substitute” must be understood by “biotechnological honey substitute”. By honey substitute, the applicant understands a compound rich in sugars, which has the properties attributed to honey in terms of soothing and healing. By "biotechnological origin" means obtained using microorganisms.

The natural presence of certain microorganisms has been demonstrated in honey, but at the same time, studies have shown that honey has certain anti-bacterial properties. Thus, only certain species of microorganisms are compatible with honey. The Applicant has selected natural microorganisms, close to those naturally present in honey, and whose growth is not inhibited by honey. It therefore becomes possible to cultivate, under certain conditions, these microorganisms with honey, or a product close to honey, and then to extract the intra-cytoplasmic and extra-cytoplasmic content of the microorganisms thus cultivated. The biotechnological honey substitute thus obtained contains:

- sugars which have not been consumed, part of which has been bio-metabolized by micro-organisms,

- the cytoplasmic content of microorganisms, enriched in sugars, but also in all substances necessary for the life of these organisms.

In doing so, another use of the invention is characterized in that the biotechnological substitute for honey is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey.

For example, the microorganism used is a yeast and preferably the microorganism used is Saccharomyces sp.

By “sugars whose composition is close to that of honey” is meant a mixture of commercial sugars present in honey in their natural state. Among these sugars, those present mainly in honey are: a mixture of glucose and levulose (fructose) representing approximately 70% to 75% of honey, but also dextrin and sucrose representing respectively 10% and 2.5% of honey . In the present invention, the distribution between the different sugars does not influence the use of the product, but preferably glucose and levulose are predominant compared to the other sugars.

Another use is therefore characterized in that the biotechnological substitute for honey is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars which are a mixture of glucose, levulose, dextrins and sucrose. To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the biotechnological substitute for honey is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars used in an amount representing from 1% to 20% of the culture medium of the microorganism and preferably the sugars are used in an amount representing from 6% to 14% of the culture medium of the microorganism.

Another use is characterized in that the biotechnological substitute for honey contains from 10% to 50% of a glycol, and preferably the glycol used is hexylene glycol.

Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a dosage form suitable for administration by the topical skin route, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, body hair or hair. These compositions may in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair. .

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam. It can also be in solid form, like a stick, or be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can be used as a care product and / or as a skin makeup product.

These compositions comprise, in a known manner, the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, dyes, filters, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers. In all cases, these adjuvants, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to harm the properties sought in the invention. These adjuvants can for example correspond to 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the fatty phase can represent from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition will be chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. For example, they can be used in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their amounts, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition considered.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, it is possible to use the biotechnological honey substitute as defined above, in an amount representing from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Also, another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey.

In the compositions of the invention, the biotechnological honey substitute is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight total of the composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process which facilitates the healing of the skin, and which consists in applying the composition as defined above to scarified skin.

The invention finally relates to a cosmetic method for moisturizing the skin, consisting in applying the composition as defined above to the skin.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and without limitation.

Example 1 Preparation of a biotechnological honey substitute In the example given, the microorganism used is a yeast. As there are many kinds of yeast, the microorganism used is Saccharomyces sp. and preferably Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeasts are cultivated in a defined suitable medium.

When the yeast concentration is high, the yeasts are concentrated by centrifugation, then returned to culture in an essentially aqueous liquid medium, with a high concentration of sugars.

For example, a wet pellet of 150 grams of yeast is cultivated in a liter of an essentially aqueous medium for 18 to 36 hours containing 60 g / l of glucose, 65 g / l of levulose, 10 g / l of dextrin and 5 g 1 of sucrose.

Then, the whole is crushed using a ball mill, then centrifuged and filtered.

20% hexylene glycol can be added to the extract.

The extract is then treated and sterilized to comply with cosmetic requirements (color, odor, appearance, sterility ...).

The product obtained is the biotechnological substitute for honey.

Example 2 Effect of the Biotechnological Substitute of Example 1 on Healing

The study makes it possible to assess the effectiveness of the product on wound healing.

The study was conducted on animals for five consecutive days and had no influence on the behavior of the animals.

No clinical signs that could be due to the action of the product were observed during this test.

The only significant observations concerned the aftermath of the anesthesia and were considered normal. No mortality was observed during this study.

Procedure:

10 animals underwent an incision followed by the placement of stitches. 5 animals received the application of the substitute from Example 1, once a day for 5 days. The other 5 animals received no treatment. Visual observations were made daily, and on the fifth day a dynamometer stretch was performed.

Results:

24 hours after the incision, no significant difference was noted between the treated and control animals. On the other hand, a slight difference appeared after 48 hours. Indeed, larger scar buds were visible in the treated animals, while they were barely noticeable in the control animals.

On day 3 of the study, the difference was more significant, insofar as the scar presented an advanced budding in the treated animals, whereas it was only a beginner in the control ammals. To date, the time lag in the healing process between the 2 groups of animals was 24 hours.

The same difference was observed on day 4, when scarring was partial in the control animals, while it was almost complete in the treated animals. On day 5, the scar was closed in the treated animals, while it was only partial in the control animals.

The stretching with the dynamometer of the samples taken on day 5 reveals the following results:

For the animals treated with the substitute of example 1, the stretching is 28.7 mm + or - 2.2 mm.

For the control animals, the stretch is 23.2 mm + or - 1.6 mm.

There is therefore a 23.7% increase in stretch between the treated and untreated animals.

This difference reflects the healing efficiency of the honey substitute of example 1. Conclusion:

The honey substitute of Example 1 has a healing power, a power which has been demonstrated on the one hand visually, on the other hand with stretching with a dynamometer.

Example 3 Preparation of Compositions

These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage by weight.

1 - Oil in water emulsion

Oily phase:

• Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00% m Jojoba oil 5.00% a Retinoic acid 0.50% a Naseline oil 5.00% a Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%

Aqueous phase: a Glycerin 5.00% a Allantoin 0.10% a Biotechnological substitute from Example 1 5.00% a Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7) 0.30% a Preservative 0, 50% a Perfume 0.50%

Water qs 100%

2- Gfd

a Carbopol Ultrez lO (2% sol.) 25.00% a Triethanolamine 0.50% a Biotechnology substitute from Example 1 3.00% a Preservative 0.20% a EDTA (sequestering) 0.10% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100%

3- Lotion

a Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00% a Allantoin 0.30% a Glycerin 1.00% a Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00% a Biotechnology substitute of example 1 1.00% a Preservative 0, 20% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100%

Claims

REVE PICATIONS

1. Use in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey; the substitute or the composition being intended to accelerate the healing.

2. Use in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey; the substitute or the composition being intended for skin hydration.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the microorganism used is a yeast.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the microorganism used is Saccharomyces sp.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars which are a mixture of glucose, levulose, dextrins and sucrose.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars in an amount representing from 1% to 20% of the culture medium of the microorganism .

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars in an amount representing from 6% to 14% of the culture medium of the micro- organization.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute contains from 10% to 50% of a glycol.

9. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the glycol used is hexylene glycol.

10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is used in an amount representing from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is used in an amount representing

0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, a biotechnological substitute for honey obtained by cultivating microorganisms with sugars whose composition is close to that of honey.

13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the biotechnological honey substitute is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

15. Cosmetic method facilitating the healing of the skin, and consisting in applying to a scarified skin the composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14.

16. Cosmetic method for moisturizing the skin, comprising applying to the skin the composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14.