Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/67—Vitamins
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/57—Compounds covalently linked to a(n inert) carrier molecule, e.g. conjugates, pro-fragrances

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising at least one biotin compound (modified or unmodified biotin) carrying at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
• a cosmetic composition comprising at least one complexing agent for modified or unmodified biotin, carrying at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• the present invention also relates to a composition
• cosmetic comprising biotin modified or not associated with at least one complexing agent, the biotin or the complexing agent being carrying at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• the present invention also relates to several
• Biotin also called vitamin H or B8, is a water-soluble vitamin made up of an imidazoline nucleus and a tetrahydrothiophene ring carrying a side chain with five carbon atoms. Biotin is a nutrient for hair and skin.
• Biotin naturally binds with great affinity for avidin, a glycoprotein found in raw egg white. Biotin and avidin together form a complex by non-covalent bond among the most stable existing between biological molecules with a dissociation constant of 1.3 10 "15 at pH5. In addition, avidin has four sites of interaction for biotin.
• the first object of the invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one biotin compound (biotin modified or not) carrying at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• the second object of the invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one compound capable of forming, with a biotin compound, carrying or not having at least one group with ⁇ non-coloring cosmetic activity, a complex whose dissociation constant is lower or equal to 10 -1 at the temperature of 25 ° C, the said complexing compound carrying at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• the third object of the invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising: a biotin compound a) chosen from biotin and modified biotins a compound b) capable of forming with compound a) a complex whose dissociation constant is less than or equal at 10 "1 at a temperature of 25 ° C, at least one of these compounds a) or b) being the carrier of at least one group with non-coloring cosmetic activity.
• Another object of the invention is the set of cosmetic treatment methods for keratin materials using these compositions or the constituents a) and b) of the third object of the invention.
• the compounds a), that is to say the biotin and the modified biotins, are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I)
• * with W can be derived from UV filtering molecules, moisturizing or emollient molecules, conditioning agents, antistatic agents, antiperspirant agents, perfuming materials, reducing molecules, oxidizing molecules, antimicrobial agents, anti-dandruff agents, mineral or organic particulate agents possibly in the form of nanotubes or other three-dimensional assemblies such as fullerenes (eg fullerenes C60-C70) on which one or more polymers, anionic film-forming agents or nonionic, amphoteric or cationic on which organic or mineral particles are possibly adsorbed.
• fullerenes eg fullerenes C60-C70
• anionic film-forming agents or nonionic, amphoteric or cationic on which organic or mineral particles are possibly adsorbed.
• Particles include mineral particles and organic particles.
• the mineral particles can consist of the oxides, the dihydrate oxides, the hydroxides, the carbonates, the sulphides, the silicates, the phosphates of silicon, of calcium, of magnesium, of zinc, of aluminum, of titanium, of zirconium, of cerium, nacres, micas, particles constituted by native metals, that is to say alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals, rare earth metals, coated or not and their alloys.
• the metals aluminum, copper, silver, gold, indium, iron, platinum, nickel, molybdenum, silicon, titanium, tungsten, antimony are preferred.
• gold, silver, palladium and platinum and their alloys are preferred, silver and gold being the preferred metals.
• the organic particles can consist of latexes, polystyrene, polystyrene derivatives, silicones, fluoropolymers, polypropylene, polyethylene, poly (meth) acrylic acid, polymethacrylate, polyurethane, polyamide, polycarbonate, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate, fluoropolymers, polyethylenes, polypropylene, polysobutylene, poly (l-butylene), the copolymers and mixtures of the polymers mentioned, alkyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyldextran, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate, carboxyethylcellulose, cellulose sulfate, dextran sulfate, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylpyrolidone.
• the polystyrene particles are commercially available from Poly
• organic particles can be crosslinked using crosslinking agents such as, for example, divinylbenzene, glutaraldehyde, 1,4-bis (acryloyl) piperazine, carbodiimides, N-hydroxysuccinimide and derivatives, divinylsufone, dithiobis (succinimidyl ) propionate, N-succinimidyl-3- (2-pyridyldithio) propionate.
• crosslinking agents such as, for example, divinylbenzene, glutaraldehyde, 1,4-bis (acryloyl) piperazine, carbodiimides, N-hydroxysuccinimide and derivatives, divinylsufone, dithiobis (succinimidyl ) propionate, N-succinimidyl-3- (2-pyridyldithio) propionate.
• particles means particles whose size is between 1 nm and 100 ⁇ m, preferably between lnm and 1000 nm and even more preferably between lnm and 50 nm.
• particle size is understood to mean the maximum dimension which it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of the particle.
• the particles according to the invention can be spherical, lamellar, fibrillar, or completely random.
• biotin derivatives which can be used according to the invention are for example available from Sigma-Aldrich or Carbomer Inc and can be chosen from bovine albumin biotin, bovine albumin biotin gold labeled (5 or 20 nm), biotin dextran, biotin fluorescein, latex biotin, biotin carboxymethylcellulose, biotin chitosan, peroxidase biotinamidocaproyl, alkaline phosphatase-biotinamidocaproyl, biotin agarose, concanavalin A- biotin, ⁇ -galactosidase biotin, biotin-biotin
• the group W can be derived from the following active ingredients: * saccharides, oligosaccharides, polysaccharides hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, * amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, hydrolyzed proteins or not, modified or not, polyamino acids, enzymes,
• saccharide, oligosaccharide or polysaccharide type compounds, hydrolysed or not, modified or not, which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those which are in particular described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition , 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in” Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328,
• saccharides oligosaccharides, polysaccharides hydrolyzed or not, modified or not, which can be used in the invention
• saccharides such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables like light peas, tubers like potatoes or cassava
• starch betainate such as those obtained, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables like light peas, tubers like potatoes or cassava
• amylose, amylopectin glycogen dextrans, ⁇ -glucans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, carboxymethylcelluloses), fructosans, inulin, levane, mannans, xylans, lignins
• amino acids there may be mentioned, for example, cysteine, lysine, alanine, N-phenylalanine, arginine, glycine, leucine, and mixtures thereof.
• oligopeptides, peptides, proteins hydrolyzed or not, modified or not which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrolysates of wool or silk proteins, modified or not, proteins vegetables such as wheat proteins.
• laccases peroxidases, lipases, proteases, glycosidases, dextranases, uricases, alkaline phosphatase.
• branched fatty acids or not suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of C 3 -C 30 carboxylic acids, such as palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, myristic acid, l stearic acid, lauric acid, and their mixtures.
• the fatty alcohols which can be used in the present invention include in particular C 8 -C 30 alcohols such as, for example, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, myristylic, stearyl and lauryl alcohols.
• a wax within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (about 25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above about 40 ° C and which can range up to 200 ° C, and having an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
• the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
• animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives
• vegetable waxes such as Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japanese wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes
• mineral waxes for example, paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites.
• ceramides mention may be made in particular of the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the classification of DAWNING, and more particularly N-oleyldehydrosphingosine.
• the hydroxylated organic acids are chosen from those well known and used in the art. Mention may in particular be made of citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid.
• the active UV-A and / or UV-B sun filters which can be used according to the invention are those well known to those skilled in the art. Mention may in particular be made of dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4- methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4 '-diisopropyldibenzoyl-methane, p-amino-benzoic acid and its esters such as p-amino-benzoic acid and its esters such as 2-ethylhexyl dimethylaminobenzoate and N-propoxylated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, salicylates such as triethanolamine salicylate, cinnamic acid esters such as 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxy
• antioxidants and anti-free radical agents which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example, ascorbic acid, ascorbylated compounds such as ascorbyl dipalmitate, t-butylhydroquinone, polyphenols such than phloroglucinol, sodium sulfite, erythorbic acid, flavonoids.
• the chelators can be chosen in particular from EDTA
• ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts such as disodium EDTA and dipotassium EDTA, phosphate compounds such as sodium metaphosphate, sodium hexametaphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, phosphonic acids and their salts such as salt ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid.
• anti-dandruff agents are chosen, for example, from:
• l-hydroxy-2-pyridone such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, l-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone and l-hydroxy-4, 6-dimethyl-2-pyridone; - trihalogenocarbamides;
• - azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole b; - antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B or nystatin;
• sulfur in its various forms cadmium sulphide, allantoin, coal tar or wood tar and their derivatives in particular, cade oil, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid, allylamines such as terbinafine.
• the anti-dandruff agents mentioned above can also optionally be used in the form of their physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic base addition salts.
• organic bases are in particular low molecular weight alkanolamines such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanedione; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine, N-methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, for example, trimethylbenzyl hydroxide; guanidine and its derivatives, and in particular its alkylated derivatives.
• inorganic bases are in particular the salts alkali metals, such as sodium or potassium; ammonium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium, calcium; the cationic di, tri or tetravalent metal salts, such as zinc, aluminum and zirconium.
• alkali metals such as sodium or potassium
• ammonium salts such as sodium or potassium
• alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium
• the cationic di, tri or tetravalent metal salts such as zinc, aluminum and zirconium.
• the . alkanolamines, ethylenediamine and inorganic bases such as the alkali metal salts are preferred.
• the seborrhea regulating agents are, for example, succinylchitosan and poly- ⁇ -alanine.
• Soothing agents are, for example, azulene and glycyrrhetinic acid.
• the cationic surfactants are those well known per se, such as the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyl-trialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxy-alkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives.
• cationic polymer any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
• the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
• the cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 6 approximately.
• the cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.
• the polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents Nos . 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
• these polymers mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid; (2) derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1,492,597; (3) cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No.
• 4,131,576 such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl-trimethylammonium, of methacrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium or of dimethyldiallylammonium; (4) the cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups;
• polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers.
• polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and
• polyaminoamides such as those described in particular in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508; (7) polyaminoamide derivatives, for example, adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylene-triamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and denotes preferably a methyl, ethyl, propyl group, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes the ethylene group.
• polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between
• alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide;
• quaternary diammonium polymers having a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000, such as those described, for example, in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904 , 4 005 193,
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed statistically in the polymer chain where B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups or alternatively B and C can denote groups deriving from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybétaines or sulphobetaines;
• B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon group, or although B and C form part of a chain of a polymer with an ethylene-dicarboxylic unit, one of the carboxylic groups of which has been caused to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
• amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above are chosen from the following polymers: 1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and d 'a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as more particularly the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, the dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide.
• Such compounds are described in US Patent No. 3 836 537.
• the vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride.
• copolymers of acrylic acid and the latter monomer are offered under the names Merquat ® 280, Merquat 295 and Merquat ® ® Plus 3330 by Calgon.
• (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reactants, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
• the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutylacrylamide, N-tertiooctylacrylamide, N- octyl. N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
• the acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
• the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
• CTFA 4th edition, 1991
• octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name or Lovocryl AMPHOMER® ® ® 47 by the company National Starch.
• R ⁇ 0 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid with ethylene double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a group deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amine
• Z denotes a group of a polyalkylene polyamine bis- primary, mono or bis-secondary and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100% by moles, the group
• the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic, terephthalic acids, acids with ethylenic double bonds such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.
• the alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
• R n denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
• y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3
• R 12 and R 13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group , ethyl or propyl
• R 14 and R, 5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R 14 and R 15 does not exceed 10.
• the polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
• non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate, or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
• methyl methacrylate copolymer and dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methyl ethylmethacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 ® by the company Sandoz.
• R 20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH 3 O group, CH 3 CH 2 O, phenyl, R 2 ⁇ denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R 22 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R 23 denotes a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R 24 -N (R 22 ) 2 , R 24 representing a group -CH 2 - CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -, R 22 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these groups and containing up to 6 carbon atoms.
• E or E ', E or E' which may be identical or different, denote a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups, and which may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane.
• E denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E';
• E having the meaning given above and E 1 is a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, whether or not substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising a or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl and betaine functions by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloracetate.
• the . silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in water, and they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in water; they can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
• Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's book “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968) Académie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
• the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by
• RHODIA decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as "SILICONE
• VOLATILE FZ 3109 "sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure: (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 "6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name" SH 200 "by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD &BYERS" Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics ".
• non-volatile silicones mention may in particular be made of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups.
• organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.
• organomodified silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
• the substituted amino groups are in particular C 1 - aminoalkyl groups;
• - thiol groups such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE
• - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX ® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
• oils of vegetable origin of sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil. , wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil; as oil of animal origin, perhydrosqualene; as oils of mineral origin, paraffin oil and petrolatum oil.
• the polyisobutenes and poly (-olefins) are chosen from those well known in the art.
• esters that may be mentioned include esters of fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, Purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), l isononyl or isostearyl isononanoate, isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.
• the anionic polymers generally used in the present invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a molecular weight by weight of between 500 and 5,000,000.
• the carboxylic groups are provided by monoacid monomers or unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as those corresponding to the formula:
• Ri ⁇ / (A) n -COOH yC C s (XII) R 3 in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the group neighboring methylene when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R j denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group lower or carboxyl, R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a. lower alkyl group, a -CH 2 -COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
• a lower alkyl group preferably contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and denotes by. in particular, the methyl and ethyl groups.
• the anionic polymers comprising carboxyl groups according to the invention are: A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts, in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL ® E or K by the company Allied Colloid, ULTRAHOLD ® by BASF Copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN ® 421, 423 or 425 by the company HERCULES, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
• C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as the allyl or methallyl ester, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an ⁇ or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
• Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents numbers 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798.
• Polymers also falling into this class are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and an allyl or methallyl ester optionally comprising a acrylamide, methacrylamide group, an ⁇ -olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified.
• these polymers are for example described in French patents 2,350,384 ' and 2,357,241 of . the plaintiff;
• the polymers comprising the sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalene-sulfonic or acrylamido-alkylsulfonic units.
• These polymers can in particular be chosen from:
• salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000 as well as the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids, and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
• anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the terpolymer acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG ® by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / neododecanoate terpolymers.
• acrylic acid copolymers such as the terpolymer acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG ® by the company BASF
• copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl
• vinyl sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH polymers derived from acids or anhydrides maleic, fumaric, itaconic with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride monoesterified copolymer sold under the name GANTREZ ® ES 425 by the company ISP copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ® MAEX by BASF, the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer sold under the name
• anionic polymers can also be used in the form of latex or pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of an aqueous dispersion of insoluble polymer particles.
• nonionic polymers which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular:
• polyalkyloxazolines such as polyethyloxazolines by Dow Chemical under the names Peox ® 50000, Peox ® 200 000 ® and Peox 500,000; - vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product offered under the name of APPRETAN ® EM by the company HOECHST or the product offered under the name of RHODOPAS ® A 012 by the company RHONE POULENC;
• Nonionic unmodified guar gums are, for example, products sold under the name VIDOGUM ® GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the name JAGUAR ® C by the company MEYHALL.
• modified nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention are preferably modified with CC 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
• guar gums are well known in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
• Such gums guar nonionic optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar ® HP8, Jaguar HP60 ® and
• the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• the reducing agents can be chosen from thioacids and their salts (thioglycolic or thiolactic acid, cysteine or cysteamine), sulphites of alkali or alkaline earth metals, reducing sugars such as glucose, vitamin C and its derivatives, derivatives of sulfinic acid, phosphines.
• composition according to the invention may contain one or more of the biotin compounds and complexing agents described above, in a total amount of between 0.001 and 90% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 25% by weight, better still between 0, 1 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic treatment composition.
• the cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water, or of a solvent or mixture of solvents, or of a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as a lower Cx- alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
• a lower Cx- alcohol such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol
• alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
• the pH of the compositions according to the invention is between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7.
• the compositions according to the invention can also contain additives such as natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitteronic, nonionic polymeric thickeners or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants, nacrants, opacifiers, perfumes, dyes, mineral or organic particles, preservatives, agents pH stabilization.
• additives such as natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitteronic, nonionic polymeric thickeners or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants, nacrants, opacifiers, perfumes, dyes, mineral or organic particles, preservatives, agents pH stabilization.
• additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the compounds b) are preferably chosen from compounds of structure:
• D (A ') n .
• These compositions can be in the form of more or less thick solutions, creams, fluid gels, sticks or foams. They can be packaged as an aerosol.
• An object of the invention is a set of cosmetic treatment methods for keratin materials and in particular for the hair.
• Y denotes BW.
• a fourth method according to the invention consists firstly in depositing on the keratinous materials by adsorption a compound a) in which Y denotes BW, then in a second time at
• the hair treatment method according to the invention may comprise a preliminary step which consists of a cosmetic treatment chosen from the group formed by reducers or oxidants for permanent deformation of the hair, oxidation dyes, bleaches, shampoos or styling compositions .
• Example 1 is intended to illustrate the invention, without however being limiting in nature.
• Example 1 is intended to illustrate the invention, without however being limiting in nature.
• nanoparticles of gold were deposited on the hair fiber with or without avidin in the medium, the biotin being attached to the particles to drop.
• Rinsing is then carried out in several stages:
• the hair is then dried with the gentle heat of a dryer.
• Rinsing is carried out in several stages:
• the hair is analyzed by Scanning Electron Microscopy and EDX (Energy dispersive X-ray). After several washes, the sample treated with the avidin / biotin system (sample 1) still shows the presence of gold nanoparticles on the surface. There is therefore a marked afterglow after washing. On the other hand, no gold nanoparticle is detected on the hair not treated with avidin (sample 2).
• Example 2 Remanent grafting on washing of an enzyme (peroxidase) thanks to the biotin / avidin couple.
• Rinsing is then carried out in several stages:
• This hair treated with avidin is then dried with the gentle heat of a hair dryer (approximately 30 ° C.) for approximately 20 min.
• a biotinylated peroxidase solution (reference P 9568, sold by Sigma) at 0.1 mg / ml is prepared in phosphate buffer.
• the biotinylated peroxidase solution is diluted to the tenth, lml of this solution is brought into contact with the samples (5 hairs) for 1 h at room temperature. Then rinse with 2 ml of distilled water for 1 minute three times in succession.
• the hair is analyzed by optical microscopy in white light over its entire length.
• sample 1 After several washes, the sample treated with the avidin / biotin system (sample 1) still shows the presence of peroxidase (red coloration) on the surface. There is therefore a marked afterglow after washing. On the other hand, no peroxidase (absence of red coloration) is detected on the hair not treated with avidin (sample 2).

Landscapes

• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=8871096

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (5)

Families Citing this family (5)

Family Cites Families (9)

• 2001
  • 2001-12-31 FR FR0117074A patent/FR2834209B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2002
  • 2002-12-30 US US10/330,481 patent/US20030161803A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2002-12-31 EP EP02799133A patent/EP1461002A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2002-12-31 WO PCT/FR2002/004595 patent/WO2003059299A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2002-12-31 AU AU2002364355A patent/AU2002364355A1/en not_active Abandoned

Non-Patent Citations (1)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events