EP1458332A1 - Produits de nettoyage a base de micro-emulsions contenant de l'huile - Google Patents

Produits de nettoyage a base de micro-emulsions contenant de l'huile

Info

Publication number
EP1458332A1
EP1458332A1 EP20020804889 EP02804889A EP1458332A1 EP 1458332 A1 EP1458332 A1 EP 1458332A1 EP 20020804889 EP20020804889 EP 20020804889 EP 02804889 A EP02804889 A EP 02804889A EP 1458332 A1 EP1458332 A1 EP 1458332A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
oil
microemulsions
branched
acyl
peg
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP20020804889
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stephan Ruppert
Jörg SCHREIBER
Mirko Tesch
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1458332A1 publication Critical patent/EP1458332A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cleaning products based on oil-containing microemulsions and the process for their preparation, which are nevertheless aesthetic and which can be used as shower gels, shampoos, cleaning preparations, hand-washing products, bath preparations, make-up removers or shaving products.
  • the products can be low-viscosity or gel-like, can foam lightly or strongly and / or can be used as antibacterial rinse-off formulations.
  • the cleaning products are very mild to the skin and aesthetic.
  • the microemulsions can serve as impregnation medium for wipes, tissues that are used wet or dry by the consumer or can also be applied from a pumpoamer.
  • Cosmetic treatment of the skin and hair also includes cleaning them. Cleaning means removing unwanted dirt, removing all types of germs and increasing mental and physical well-being. Preparations containing surfactants are primarily suitable for cleaning.
  • Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, facilitating dirt removal and removal, easy rinsing and, if desired, foam regulation.
  • hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO " , -OSO 3 2" , -SO 3 " , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:
  • Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
  • Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.
  • the droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions is in the range from about 10 "2 ⁇ m to about 4 x 10 " 1 ⁇ m.
  • Such microemulsions are usually of low viscosity.
  • the viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.
  • microemulsions are that active substances can be more finely dispersed in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they can be sprayed due to their low viscosity.
  • a disadvantage of the microemulsions of the prior art is that a high content of one or more emulsifiers must always be used, since the small droplet size requires a high interface between the phases, which generally has to be stabilized by emulsifiers.
  • Microemulsions based on anionic surfactants are known.
  • EP 0529883 describes preparations which, in addition to lauryl ether sulfate and betaine, contain a cationic deposition polymer. It is disadvantageous that on the one hand only silicone oils can be used and on the other hand the proportion of the oil is only 1% by weight in contrast to 18% by weight of surfactants. The emulsification of more oil components while maintaining transparency has not been achieved. Transparent systems are obtained when water is no longer used in O / W microemulsions. However, these systems are then not to be regarded as an O / W microemulsion, but rather as pure oil bases, oil baths, as described in DE 19712678.
  • microemulsions with anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants Another problem with the provision of microemulsions with anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants is that the oil components are very difficult to use, since the surfactants are often too water-soluble and therefore have hardly any emulsifying properties. Furthermore, the surfactants mostly contain salts, which have a great influence on the emulsifying power. Furthermore, surfactant mixtures often have to be adjusted to pH values between 5 and 7 with acids such as citric acid, which likewise leads to a change in the interface properties and thus often complicates the incorporation of oil components while maintaining transparency. The prior art lacks a manufacturing specification for oil-containing yet transparent microemulsions which are mild to the skin as cleaning products.
  • WO 0047166 describes microemulsions based on MIPA laureth sulfate. Laureth-9, Myreth-9, sodium laureth-10-carboxylic acid, ethoxylated castor oil and cocamidopropylbetaine are used as cosurfactants in the examples. From the examples it can be seen that the ratio of the surfactants to the solubilized oil is very large. This disadvantage of the surfactant mixture allows a maximum of 5% by weight of oil to be solubilized. A further problem that the combination of cationic substances with anionic surfactants often leads to precipitation of the corresponding surfactant mixture due to the electrostatic attraction of both substances is not mentioned in WO 0047166.
  • EP 668754 describes transparent preparations which are anionic
  • the mixtures foam little and contain no conditioning agents. It is also known that foams that consist only of the anionic surfactant lauryl ether sulfate produce a flash foam, but this quickly becomes unstable. The stability can be achieved by cosurfactants such as betaine, glutamate, sarcosinate or amphoacetate, but this is not considered advantageous in DE 4411557.
  • cosurfactants such as betaine, glutamate, sarcosinate or amphoacetate, but this is not considered advantageous in DE 4411557.
  • the surfactant systems typically used for rinse-off products are also not described.
  • microemulsions which either contain very little water or very much water. In the latter case, however, the microemulsions are characterized by a very high polyol content of 12-30% by weight.
  • the oil phase mentioned consists of glyceryl oleate or cetyl alcohol, so that in the cosmetic sense it is rather a matter of W / O emulsifiers and consistency enhancers.
  • the microemulsion described consists of anionic surfactants such as lauryl ether sulfate, cocoglyceride and the W / O emulsifiers mentioned.
  • cetyl laurate hexyldecanol laurate
  • a proportion of 2.2% by weight is to be regarded as a real oil component. Solubilizing larger amounts of oil is obviously difficult here, too, since a total of 33.2% by weight of surfactants and W / O emulsifiers are required in order to clearly disperse about 2% by weight of oil.
  • Another disadvantage is the high content of hexanediol of 12% by weight and short-chain glycerol esters such as glyceryl caprylate of 12-15% by weight, since these substances are irritating to the skin in the concentrations listed.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide oil-containing cleaning products which do not have the disadvantages of the known cleaning products listed.
  • Another object of the present invention is to enrich the state of the art and to provide cleaning products and their production processes which have a relatively high oil content and are nevertheless aesthetically pleasing and above all skin-friendly.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide oil-containing cleansing products which can be applied, distributed and washed off in a manner which is pleasant to the senses, the skin-care oil phase remaining on the skin.
  • the stated tasks are solved by a process for the production of microemulsions as cleaning preparations and the cleaning preparations thus produced according to the main claims.
  • the subclaims relate to advantageous embodiments of the preparations according to the invention.
  • the invention further comprises the use of such preparations.
  • oil-containing microemulsions which can be used as cleaning products, by the combination of a) a primary surfactant, b) one or more cosurfactants, c) optionally one or more W / O emulsifiers, i.e. ) one or more liquid and / or solid oil phases, e) optionally a thickener and f) the addition of 0 to 4% by weight of salts, the primary / cosurfactant ratio being variable with a constant total amount of surfactant and transparent emulsions be preserved.
  • the corresponding microemulsions remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the primary surfactant e.g. laurethersulfate or lauryl sulfate
  • cosurfactant e.g. betaines, amphoacetate, glutamate or sarcosinate
  • Variable phmar / cosurfactant ratios of 14: 1, 13: 2, 11: 4, 9: 6 etc. can be set and a microemulsions is obtained in any case.
  • Recipes that have such flexibility with regard to the choice of surfactant are advantageous because the foaming power as well as the compatibility of the respective formulation depend heavily on it.
  • Foaming is particularly advantageous because the consumer associates cleaning performance with it.
  • oil-free formulations foam particularly well if the surfactant / cosurfactant content or the surfactant ratio are selected accordingly.
  • An advantage of the formulations according to the invention is that they foam even in the presence of oil.
  • variation in the relative surfactant proportions to one another is furthermore not restricted to a specific oil component.
  • Active ingredients of different hydrophilicity / lipophilicity can thus be more easily can be used because the oil phase can be chosen flexibly.
  • larger concentrations of oils and lipids they themselves adhere better to the skin or hair, so that products of this type have greater care potential.
  • microemulsions according to the invention are to formulate low-viscosity microemulsions with the advantages described above and also microemulsion gels.
  • a low-viscosity microemulsion can be advantageous for a bath additive, while a gel-like consistency is more favorable for a shower product, since the product is then present in large quantities when it is distributed in the palm of the hand.
  • oil-containing formulations according to the invention turn out to be much milder than oil-free compositions.
  • lipid film is formed which is more protective than low-oil ones
  • compositions or compared to oil-free recipes. Therefore they are
  • microemulsions according to the invention can be used very well as impregnation media for wipes and fabrics which can be used by the consumer wet or dry.
  • the compositions with the ultra-fine droplets are easily drawn onto the fiber, which is an advantage.
  • the soaked products can also lead to a foam when used with water on the skin.
  • a lipophilic co-emulsifier such as glycerol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitan ester low ethoyl.
  • Glycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides are advantageous because they can lower the interfacial tension more.
  • suitable co-emulsifiers in known preparations is explained by the fact that frequently only unstable formulations in the presence of the surfactants result in the presence of oil or that only simple emulsions can be obtained. This disadvantage has also been met according to the invention.
  • the influence of the salt content is only insufficiently appreciated in microemulsions of the prior art. This is despite the fact that the salt content is important for the successful production of cosmetic cleaning products.
  • the surfactants often contain salts due to the manufacturing process. In the case of oil-free market formulations based on surfactants, the additional use of table salt changes the viscosity from low-viscosity to gel-like. This high salt content can make the successful production of microemulsions difficult.
  • the microemulsions according to the invention advantageously allow the additional salt content to be added between 0 and 4% by weight, provided the surfactants are not salt-free. For microemulsions which are to be produced from salt-free surfactants, the salt content would have to be set between 0 to 4% by weight plus the salt content which is present in the salt-containing surfactants.
  • microemulsions of the prior art do not aim at how important the pH is for the transparency of the mixtures. For example, it is advantageous to adjust the pH to 5.5 using citric acid or other acids. However, the addition of acids changes the interfacial properties of the surfactants, so that a microemulsion with pH 8 can become white or unstable by adding acid at pH 5.5.
  • the relative ratios of surfactants / cosurfactants and W / O emulsifiers or by varying the salt content make it possible to obtain microemulsions regardless of the pH, which is not possible in the formulations of the prior art.
  • the surfactants can advantageously be selected from:
  • acyl glutamates for example disodium acyl glutamate, sodium acyl glutamate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate
  • acyl peptides for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen
  • N-cocoyl hydrolysed Wheat protein N-cocoyl hydrolyzed amino acids
  • sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • arginates for example N-lauroyl arginate 8.
  • valinates for example N-lauroyl valinate 9.
  • Prolinates for example N-lauroyl prolinate
  • Glycinate for example N-lauroyl glycinate, cocoamphopolycarboxyglycinate
  • Aspartates for example N-lauroyl aspartate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate
  • Carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • carboxylic acids for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanoate and zinc undecylenate,
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6-citrate and sodium PEG-4-lauramide carboxylate,
  • ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as, for example, DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilureth-4-phosphate, sulfonic acids and salts, such as
  • acyl isethionates e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
  • alkyl sulfonates for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12 . 14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate
  • sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, and sulfuric acid esters, such as 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium,
  • Alkyl sulfates for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
  • natriu alkyl sulfates such as sodium cetearyl sulfate
  • Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge.
  • Advantageous quaternary surfactants are alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain.
  • Cationic surfactants can also preferred according to the present invention are selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides de, for example benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, also ammonium salts Alkyltrialkylam-, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, Alkyldime- thylhydroxyethylammoniumchloride or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium or bromides, dialkyl ethoxylate dimethyl ammonium chlorides or bromides such as, for example, di (C14-C18) alkyl (EO) 3-20 dimethyl ammonium salts or distearyl (EO) 5 dimethyl ammonium chloride and distearyl (EO) 15 dimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides de, for example benzyldimethylstearyl
  • Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.
  • acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • the total surfactant content consisting of primary surfactant and cosurfactant, is in the range from 1 to 30% by weight.
  • the total surfactant content is preferably 25% by weight and the primary / cosurfactant ratio can be set variably in the range from 14: 1 to 1:14.
  • the droplets of the discontinuous oil phase can be connected to one another by one or more crosslinking substances, known as thickeners
  • Crosslinker structure is characterized by at least one hydrophilic area which has an extent which is suitable for bridging the distance between the microemulsion droplets and by at least one hydrophobic area which is able to interact in a hydrophobic manner with the microemulsion droplets.
  • WO 9628132 shows the backbone of a water-soluble or water-dispersible thickener, the branching points representing covalently bound hydrophobic groups to the polymer.
  • the hydrophobic residues can attach to one another through hydrophobic interaction.
  • Microemulsion droplets can also attach to the crosslinking sites through hydrophobic interactions. It is in principle irrelevant whether the hydrophobic residues "immerse” or whether the hydrophobic residues only come into superficial contact with the microemulsion droplets and adhere to them to a greater or lesser extent.
  • the crosslinking substance within the scope of the This description also referred to as the thickener, forms an independent gel network in which the microemulsion droplets are then held in place by hydrophobic interaction (so-called associative thickeners are present), or whether the network is held together by the crosslinking with the microemulsion droplets in the nodes of the network is effected.
  • crosslinking substances used according to the invention generally follow structure schemes as follows:
  • B symbolizes a hydrophilic region of the respective crosslinker molecule and A each represents hydrophobic regions, which may also be of a different chemical nature within a molecule.
  • Z represents a central unit, which can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic and usually consists of an oligo- or polyfunctional molecular residue.
  • thickeners with a higher degree of branching also fall within the scope of the present invention.
  • Z can consist of a glyceryl residue, the three OH functions of which merge into regions B, which in turn can represent, for example, polyoxyethylene chains of the same or different lengths, and whose terminal OH group is esterified with a longer-chain fatty acid. Partial substitution of glycerol is also conceivable, which can result in structures which correspond to scheme (9).
  • the hydrophilic groups B can advantageously be chosen such that the crosslinking agent is water-soluble or at least dispersible in water, the hydrophobic portion of the groups A then being overcompensated.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 , R, R 5 and R 6 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals , Aryl or aroyl radicals substituted or unsubstituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl radicals.
  • x means numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • x has water dispersibility.
  • x can also assume values which are significantly higher than 300, even several million. This is the
  • R 1, R 2 and R 3 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted by alkyl or aryl substituents Aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • Partial substitution is also conceivable, where one or more of the indices x, y, or z can assume the value zero and one or more of the radicals R 1, R 2 or R 3 can represent hydrogen atoms.
  • R L R 2 , R 3 and R 4 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • u, v, w and x mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1 t R 2 , R 3 and R can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or aryl substituents sub - substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1, R 2 and R 3 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • R 1, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, substituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl residues or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl residues.
  • u, v, w and x mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-300.
  • k, I, m and n can independently represent numbers from 0 to 50.
  • R 1 t R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals, with alkyl or aryl substituents substituted or unsubstituted aryl or aroyl radicals or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl radicals.
  • u, v, w, x and y mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-100.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R ', R 5 and R 6 can independently represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-like aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals, for example branched or unbranched or cyclic alkyl or alkanoyl radicals , Aryl or aroyl radicals substituted or unsubstituted by alkyl or aryl substituents or also alkylated or arylated organylsilyl radicals.
  • u, v, w, x, y and z mean, independently of one another, numbers which allow the entire molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in water, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageously from the range 20-1000.
  • crosslinkers have been found to be those selected from the
  • R-COO - (- CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -O-) n -C (O) -R ' where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number larger represent as 100
  • the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX n -Y m -R ' where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either Oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers, the sum of which is greater than 100 of the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Y -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl - or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y
  • the PEG-150 distearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-800 Chol 2 and the PEG-150 dioleate are particularly advantageous.
  • the PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, the PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, the PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, the PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate and the PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate can also be used advantageously as thickeners.
  • PEG-200 glyceryl palmitate is also suitable.
  • the thickener from Südchemie with the designation Purethix 1442 (polyether-1) is also advantageous.
  • polyurethane thickeners such as Rheolate 204, 205, 208 (Rheox company) or modified cosmetic variants or DW 1206B from Rhom & Haas or Serad Fx 1010, 1035 from Hüls. It is also advantageous to add mixtures of the polymers described above use, for example from PEG 800 distearate and PEG-800 Chol 2 .
  • celluloses for example hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), which are not to be regarded as crosslinking agents, are also particularly advantageous.
  • HPMC hydroxypropylmethylcellulose
  • crosslinkers described above can also be used.
  • a slightly modified way of forming microemulsion gels according to the invention is to immobilize the oil droplets by using hydrophobically modified, synthetic or natural polymers.
  • Such polymers are sometimes referred to as associative thickeners.
  • the thickener or thickeners are to be selected from the group of associative thickeners, to select hydrophobically substituted polysaccharide derivatives, for example hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins , Proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers and the like.
  • hydrophobically substituted polysaccharide derivatives for example hydrophobically substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins , Proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble silicone polymers and the like.
  • cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose should be used.
  • hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose should also be used with great preference.
  • polyethylene glycols with long PEG units are particularly preferred, for example PEG-14 M, PEG-45 M from Amerchol and Oxethal VD 92 (glyceryl-90 isostearate + Laureth -2) from Zschimmer and Schwarz.
  • Cationic polymers can also be added as thickeners. These improve the feeling on the skin and can advantageously influence the foaming behavior of the formulations according to the invention.
  • the cationic polymers can be selected from:
  • polyquaternium 10 and polyquaternium 24 are preferred.
  • Quaternary derivatives of gums For example, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar 3 are preferred. Homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyl diallyammonium chloride (DMDAAC). For example, polyquaternium 4 and 6 and 7 4 are preferred. Homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC)
  • polyquaternium 28 For example, polyquaternium 28 and
  • polyquaternium 32 and polyquaternium 37 are preferred.
  • AETAC acryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
  • polyquaternium 33 is preferred.
  • Luviquat 905 is preferred
  • Preferred are, for example, hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride derivatives of starch, which can be from grain, potato, rice, tapioaca, wheat and the like.
  • trimethylsilylamodimethicone (Dow Corning Q2- 8220), copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane and poly C2-C3 alkylene ether (Dow Corning 190, Dow Corning 2-5324, Dow Corning Q2-5220), Abil-Quat 3270 are preferred 12.
  • PVP trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • the thickener (s) used according to the invention may also be advantageous if the thickener (s) used according to the invention has or have physiological activity in the sense of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect.
  • the biosurfactant esters disclosed in German Offenlegungsschrift 43 44 661 can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Oils with different polarity, molecular weight and structure can also be used.
  • the oil component or all of the oil components of the preparation according to the invention is preferably selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated , branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 44 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 C atoms, provided that the oil component or all of the oil components represent a liquid at room temperature.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, iso-nonylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl-ethylhexyl palate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
  • ester oils have proven particularly useful for producing more foaming preparations.
  • Cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexylaurate, 2-ethylhexypalmitate, decyl oleate, octyl isostearate, isotridecyl isononaoate or corresponding ester oil mixtures are particularly advantageous.
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, silicone oils, lanolins, adipic acid esters, butylene glycol diesters, dialkyl ethers or carbonates, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and also fatty acid triglycerides, especially saturated triglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, macadamia oil, evening primrose oil and the like.
  • synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, macadamia oil, evening primrose oil and the like.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Dicapylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, paraffin oil, coco caprylate / caprate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, octyldodecanol, for example, are very advantageous.
  • oil mixtures can also be used very advantageously, for example paraffin oil / dicaprylyether, paraffin oil / cococaprylate caprate.
  • Oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).
  • B. butyl octyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • Hallbrite TQ diethyl hexyl naphthalate
  • dialkyl ethers, dialkyl carbonates, mineral oils have proven useful for producing more foaming preparations.
  • the adhesion of the substances can be further improved by using waxes (ester waxes, triglyceride waxes, ethoxylated waxes, etc.) in the oil phase or as an oil phase.
  • waxes ester waxes, triglyceride waxes, ethoxylated waxes, etc.
  • the wax component or all of the wax components are selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 C atoms, provided that Wax components or the entirety of the wax components at
  • the wax components from the group of C ⁇ 6 can be particularly advantageous.
  • Kylstearate 36 -Al-, the C 10-4 o-alkyl stearates, C 20 ⁇ 0 Alkylisostearate, the C 20 _ 40 -Dialkyldimera- te, the C eighteenth 38 -Alkylhydroxystearoylstearate, the C20-40 Dialkyldimerate, the C 20 - 40 - Alkylerucate be selected, further C-30 .5o Alkylbienenwachs, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearate.
  • Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.
  • ester waxes the esters of 1. saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
  • wax components from the group of triglyceride waxes such as C18-38 triglyceride or tribehenin. It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 beeswax, PEG 6 sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 carnauba wax are advantageous.
  • moisturizers such as glycerin, chitosan, fucogel, lactic acid, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, glycine, hyaluronic acid and their salts, urea, sodium and potassium salts can be more easily bound to the skin.
  • waxes esteer waxes, triglyceride waxes, ethoxylated waxes, etc.
  • the adhesion of the active ingredients and moisturizers can be further improved.
  • light protection filters can also be used much more easily, so that shower-on products result, ie the user receives directly during the showering a protective protection against sun rays for skin and hair.
  • the expert knows how difficult it is to formulate sun protection filters in shower products containing surfactants while maintaining transparency.
  • microemulsion according to the invention is characterized in that a large number of W / O emulsifiers can be used to prepare the microemulsions according to the invention or their gels.
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) can be selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8-24, in particular 12-18 C.
  • W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that other polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are also used, for example polyethoxylated, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated.
  • es cholesterol ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, - 20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, - 20 sorbitan beeswax), ethoylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 camauba wax).
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2
  • ethoxylated fatty acids ethoxylated dicarboxylic acids
  • ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, - 20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, - 20 sorbitan beeswax), ethoylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 camauba wax).
  • W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate,
  • the emulsions according to the invention can also contain stabilizers.
  • Preferred stabilizers are the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer.
  • the stabilizer or the stabilizers are advantageously present in concentrations of 0.01-25% by weight, although it is possible and advantageous to keep the content of stabilizers low, approximately up to 5% by weight, based in each case the total weight of the Composition. It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers if preparations according to the invention are to contain a high content of destabilizing substances. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, you can do without the stabilizer.
  • the W / O emulsifier or the W / O emulsifiers used according to the invention is or are advantageously present in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight, although it is possible and advantageous to increase the content of emulsifiers to a low level hold, up to 5% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the microemulsions according to the invention can contain dyes and / or pigments.
  • Pigments can be used if they are nanodiperged (10- 100nm), dyes make the product blue transparent, for example.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Pigments can be of organic and inorganic origin, such as azo-type organic, indigoide, triphenylmethane-like, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes known as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows.
  • Inorganic pigments consist of insoluble salts of certified dyes called lakes or iron oxides.
  • lake or iron oxides barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides can be used.
  • AI salts are Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake , Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations can be used.
  • iron oxides or oxide hydrates e.g. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide CSS-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and possibly advantageous.
  • Ultramarine blue Les colorants Wacker
  • Ultramarine blue Les colorants Wacker
  • Pearlescent pigments can also be incorporated into the emulsions according to the invention. These are, for example, from the companies Costenoble (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopeari), BASF ( Sicopeari, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) known. For example, Timiron Silk Gold and Colorona Red Gold have proven to be particularly advantageous pearlescent pigments.
  • Advantageous color pigments are also titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in a mixture and can be coated with one another, with different coating effects generally causing different color effects.
  • Emulsions according to the invention can also contain powder substances.
  • Bismuth oxychloride, titanized mica, silicon dioxide (fumed silica), spherical silicon dioxide beads, polymethyl methacrylate beads, for example, are micronized as powder materials.
  • Bentonite calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium hydroxides, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicates, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcristali cellulose, rice starch,
  • Silica silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate,
  • Zinc rosinate zinc stearate, polyethylene, aluminum oxide, attapulgite, calcium carbonate,
  • Titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder or any mixtures can be used.
  • large amounts of hydrophilic as well as hydrophobic active substances or combinations of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active substances can be incorporated into the formulations.
  • Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B, vitamin B 12, vitamin D 1 f, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular y-linolenic acid, oleic acid, Eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.
  • care active ingredients can be incorporated, which are not limited to the fat-soluble active ingredients, but can also be selected from the group of water-soluble active ingredients, for example vitamins and the like.
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • the preparations therefore advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also favorable to provide the W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens.
  • the antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imi- dazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-carosin, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene ) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imi- dazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosin, D-carosin
  • thioglycerin thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N, acetyl, methyl -, Ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, Ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • Chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxyfet t acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • gamma-linolenic acid Linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg - ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates
  • isoascorbic acid and its derivatives e.g. tocopherols and derivatives
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A - palmitate
  • mannose Derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO 4
  • selenium and its derivatives eg selenium
  • the amount of the antioxidants used in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-20% by weight, in particular 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins B and D series, very cheap the vitamin B ,, the vitamin B ⁇ 2 the vitamin D ⁇ but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F), especially ⁇ -linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid , Docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, Thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on
  • the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin Oil®, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea).
  • Their typical ingredients such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids are particularly advantageous.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins” (catechol, Z, 3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman -3,5,7-triol)
  • Catatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is also an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.
  • Plant extracts containing catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z, to Z_ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly ! , Gly 2 and Gly 3 are independently selected from the group of hexosyl residues, especially rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • other hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously.
  • pentosyl residues may also be advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Gly IF Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly 1t Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • flavone glycoside (s) from the group ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosyliso- quercitrin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin and ⁇ -glucosylquercitrin.
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.
  • naringin aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid
  • hesperidin 3 ⁇ 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside
  • hesperidoside hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside
  • Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-di-hydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4 ', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • Coenzyme Q10 which has the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous is marked:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-carnitine which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula w
  • R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention.
  • Propionylcamitine and in particular acetylcamitine are preferred.
  • Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.
  • active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin and flavoring agents as well as active ingredient combinations, sericoside combinations ,
  • the list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • preparations according to the invention may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
  • the transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid.
  • all classes of active substances are suitable as pharmaceutical active substances, lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, blood circulation-promoting agents, keratolytics, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungal agents, blood-promoting agents, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, hormones, etc., steroids, steroids, steroids, steroids
  • repellents are the above-mentioned active substances N, N-diethyl-3- methylbenzamide, 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionic acid ethyl ester, 1 -
  • the invention also relates to the use of oil-containing and also foaming microemulsions as cleaning products, in particular as shower gels, shampoos, cleansing preparations, hand-washing products, bath preparations, make-up removers or shaving products.
  • the microemulsions can serve as an impregnation medium for wipes or tissues which are applied wet or dry by the consumer or the microemulsions can be filled into a pumpoamer and applied.
  • the cleaning products according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics, if appropriate distributed, massaged in and finally washed off.
  • microemulsions according to the invention are prepared by known methods of cosmetics production, according to the invention a primary surfactant, one or more cosurfactants, optionally one or more W / O emulsifiers, one or more liquid and / or solid oil phases, optionally a thickener and 0 to 4% by weight % Salts are combined, so that the primary / cosurfactant ratio can be set variably with a constant total amount of surfactant and yet microemulsions are obtained.
  • Citric acid 1 20 Dicaprylyl ether 8.00
  • PEG-150 distearate 1 PEG-150 distearate 1, 00.
  • Example 26 Low viscosity preparation (e.g. impregnation medium for wipes, tissue)

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des produits de nettoyage à base de micro-émulsions contenant de l'huile, ainsi que leurs procédés de production. Ces produits sont esthétiques tout en pouvant être moussés et ils peuvent être utilisés en tant que gels pour la douche, shampooings, préparations de nettoyage, produits pour le lavage des mains, préparations pour le bain, démaquillants ou produits de rasage. Ces produits peuvent être faiblement visqueux ou du type gel, mousser faiblement ou fortement et/ou être utilisés comme formulations de rinçage antibactériennes. Ces produits de nettoyage sont très doux pour la peau et d'une transparence esthétique. Les micro-émulsions peuvent servir de substances d'imprégnation pour des serviettes et des tissus qui peuvent être utilisés à l'état humide ou sec par l'utilisateur. Les micro-émulsions peuvent en outre être appliquées à partir d'un appareil de moussage à pompe.
EP20020804889 2001-12-17 2002-12-12 Produits de nettoyage a base de micro-emulsions contenant de l'huile Ceased EP1458332A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10161885 2001-12-17
DE10161885.9A DE10161885B4 (de) 2001-12-17 2001-12-17 Reinigungsprodukte auf Basis ölhaltiger, Mikroemulsionen
PCT/EP2002/014139 WO2003051319A1 (fr) 2001-12-17 2002-12-12 Produits de nettoyage a base de micro-emulsions contenant de l'huile

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EP1458332A1 true EP1458332A1 (fr) 2004-09-22

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DE102016209978A1 (de) 2016-06-07 2017-03-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa "Wachse enthaltende, transparente kosmetische Reinigungszusammensetzungen"
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CN111278417A (zh) 2017-10-10 2020-06-12 宝洁公司 含低无机盐的无硫酸盐澄清个人清洁组合物
JP7353753B2 (ja) * 2018-12-11 2023-10-02 ロレアル エーテル油を含む水中油型エマルション組成物
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DE10161885A1 (de) 2003-07-10
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