Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one steroid chosen from: DHEA and a metabolic or chemical derivative thereof, characterized in that it also comprises dipropylene glycol.
• DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone
• JP-0.7 196 467 keratinization of the epidermis
• barrier effect of the skin US Pat. No. 4,496,556
• DHEA to remedy atrophy of the dermis by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,843,932. It has finally been proposed to use DHEA sulfate to treat various signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of radiance of the skin and sagging skin (EP-0723 775).
• these steroids only dissolve with difficulty in aqueous and hydroalcoholic media, which limits their formulation in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. They therefore tend to recrystallize.
• the formation of poorly controlled size results in poor bioavailability of DHEA or its derivatives in the skin. This results in a more or less significant loss of effectiveness of the compositions containing them, depending on the degree of recrystallization, which goes against the objective sought.
• this recrystallization can modify the overall stability of these compositions as well as their appearance, which can divert the user from them.
• solubilization in Guerbet alcohols of the most polar derivatives of DHEA does not always lead to satisfactory results in emulsion.
• these derivatives have a high capacity for so-called Ostwald ripening which leads to their rapid recrystallization in emulsion, by transfer of these derivatives from the fatty phase containing them to the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
• a subject of the present invention is therefore a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one steroid chosen from: DHEA and a metabolic or chemical derivative thereof, characterized in that it further comprises dipropylene glycol.
• It also relates to a process for the solubilization of at least one steroid chosen from: DHEA and / or a metabolic or chemical derivative thereof, comprising the step consisting in mixing said steroid with dipropylene glycol.
• the mixing can be carried out cold, at room temperature or hot, for example at 75 ° C., generally with stirring.
• DHEA has the following formula (I):
• the DHEA which can be used according to the invention is for example available from the company AKZO NOBEL.
• DHEA metabolic derivatives of DHEA
• 7 ⁇ OH-DHEA 7 ⁇ OH-DHEA and 7-keto-DHEA, without this list being limiting. 7 ⁇ OH-DHEA is preferred for use in the present invention.
• chemical derivative of DHEA means in particular the 3-alkyl esters of 7-oxo DHEA and in particular the 3 ⁇ -acetoxy-7-oxo DHEA sold by the company HUMANETICS under the trade name 7-Keto®.
• Ri and R 2 are independently chosen from:
• a C r C ⁇ 2 alkyl group saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or - COOR 'and / or - NR'R' and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and / or aryl and / or heterocycle
• said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, pyran, furan, piperazine, pyridine;
• an alkylcarbonyl group the C 1 -C 24 alkyl part of which is saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and / or aryl and / or heterocycle
• said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyrane, furan, piperazine, pyridine;
• an arylcarbonyl group preferably a phenylcarbonyl, or an arylalkylcarbonyl group, preferably a benzylcarbonyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups -OR 'and or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen and or aryl and / or heterocycle;
• R ' is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 12 , preferably C 1 -C 6 , saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, optionally functionalized by one or more groups -OR ", -COOR", halogen, -NR'R "; or by an aryl group, preferably a phenyl, optionally functionalized by one or more groups - OR", -COOR ", halogen or - NR “R”; R "representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl chain, preferably C 1 -C 6 , saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic, it being understood that in each of the groups -NR'R 'and -NR'R ", the substituents R ', respectively R", are identical or different.
• the diesters of 7-OH-DHEA and more preferably 3-O-acetyl-7-benzoyloxy-dehydroepiandrosterone which is in particular available from the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name 3-acetoxy-7-benzoate DHEA.
• composition according to the present invention contains, as a solubilizer for the above steroids, dipropylene glycol.
• This glycol can be used as the main solvent, in which case it makes it possible to dissolve the steroid in an aqueous medium, or as a secondary solvent. In the latter case, they
• Dipropylene glycol therefore makes it possible both to dissolve the steroid, such as DHEA, and to stabilize it vis-à-vis the ripening of Ostwald.
• the steroid concentration in the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 0.001% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the weight amount of glycol according to the invention advantageously represents from 1 to 40 times the weight amount of steroid in the composition according to the invention, that is to say that by way of indication, the glycol may represent 0.01% to 50%, better still, from 1 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention can be in all dosage forms normally used for topical application to the skin, in particular in the form of an aqueous solution, a gel, an oil-in-water emulsion, an organogel as described in application FR 2 794 998, of an emulsion without surfactant stabilized by polymeric particles (as described in application EP-0 864 320) or by mineral particles (as described in applications WO 00 / 98301, WO 00/07548, WO 00/07549 and WO 00/07550), of a microemulsion or of a nanoemulsion.
• polymeric particles as described in application EP-0 864 320
• mineral particles as described in applications WO 00 / 98301, WO 00/07548, WO 00/07549 and WO 00/07550
• This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. or a gel. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin, or as a hair product, for example as a shampoo or conditioner.
• the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matters.
• the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
• These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.
• These adjuvants, as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not harm the advantageous properties of the steroids according to the invention.
• the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fats, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration.
• the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are preferably present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• solubilizers based on 2-alkyl alkanols and their esters, oils and in particular mineral oils (petroleum jelly oil), oils of vegetable origin (avocado oil) , soybean oil), oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers).
• mineral oils such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, waxes and gums and in particular silicone gums can also be used as fats.
• emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60, for example; alkyl ethers of saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, in C ⁇ 0 -C 20 and of polyethylene glycol such as ethers of stearyl alcohol and of PEG available under the trade names BRU 72 or BRU 721, for example; alkyl ethers of glycerol or polyols; alkyl- and / or polyalkyl ethers of glucose or of sucrose such as the products sold under the names CRODESTA F10
• hydrophilic gelling agents mention may be made in particular of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids and hydrophobic silica.
• carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers
• acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers
• polyacrylamides polysaccharides
• natural gums and clays and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids and hydrophobic silica.
• the composition may contain, in addition to dipropylkene glycol, at least one other (poly) alkylene glycol and / or an ester of (poly) alkylene glycol.
• alkylene glycols examples include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol.
• polyethylene glycol comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene glycol units.
• esters of (poly) alkylene glycols mention may be made of mono-, di- and triesters of C r C 6 acid and of alkylene glycol, such as propylene glycol acetate.
• composition according to the invention finds in particular an application in the prevention and the treatment of the signs of chronological or actinic aging.
• the present invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition mentioned above for preventing or treating the signs of chronological or actinic skin aging.
• this composition relates in particular to the cosmetic use of this composition for preventing or treating loss of skin firmness and / or dull complexion and / or dilation of pores and / or pigmentation disorders of the skin or hair.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition for preventing or treating hyperseborrhea and / or the imperfections linked to hyperseborrhea and / or dandruff and / or hair loss.
• the solubility of DHEA was evaluated at room temperature in different solvents. To do this, the DHEA was dispersed, in excess, in the solvent concerned, previously brought to 60 ° C. This temperature was maintained for one hour with stirring with the magnetic bar. The suspension was then brought to room temperature (25 ° C). After 24 hours, the suspension was centrifuged to remove the crystals of unsolved DHEA. The supernatant was removed and the absence of DHEA crystals was checked by cross-polarization optical microscopy. This supernatant was then analyzed by HPLC. It is considered that the amount of DHEA detected corresponds to the maximum solubility thereof in the solvent concerned.
• dipropylene glycol is a much better solvent for DHEA than the solvents conventionally used in the fields cosmetic and pharmaceutical, such as glycerol and sorbitol, and even other (poly) alkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycol (400 EO) and propylene glycol.
• solvents conventionally used in the fields cosmetic and pharmaceutical such as glycerol and sorbitol
• other (poly) alkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycol (400 EO) and propylene glycol.
• phase A and phase B are brought to 75 ° C, separately.
• Phase B is introduced into phase A with Moritz-type rotor-stator stirring.
• the temperature is maintained at 75 ° C.
• three passes are made to the high pressure homogenizer, between 200 b and 900 b.
• the suspension is then brought back to room temperature before phase C is dispersed using a deflocculator.
• a white emulsion of oil-in-water type is obtained containing DHEA oleosomes.
• This composition can be used to prevent or treat the signs of skin aging such as wrinkles and fine lines and sagging skin.
• a lotion having the following composition is prepared, conventionally for a person skilled in the art:
• This lotion can be used, in particular, to reduce pigment spots on the hands and Vietnameselleté.
• This composition is well suited for very dry skin.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Emergency Medicine (AREA)
• Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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• 2001
  • 2001-07-27 FR FR0110108A patent/FR2827764B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2002
  • 2002-07-18 EP EP02770038A patent/EP1414403A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2002-07-18 WO PCT/FR2002/002570 patent/WO2003011244A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2002-07-18 US US10/484,428 patent/US20040186085A1/en not_active Abandoned

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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