EP1397119A2

EP1397119A2 - Use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate for tightening skin

Info

Publication number: EP1397119A2
Application number: EP02738131A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Rainer Kröpke; Jens Nielsen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-06-02
Filing date: 2002-05-31
Publication date: 2004-03-17
Also published as: US20040141936A1; DE10127087A1; ES2616867T3; WO2002098386A3; WO2002098386A2

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations for tightening and/or strengthening skin.

Description

description

Use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate for skin tightening

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for protecting and protecting the skin, in particular sensitive skin, as well as particularly in the foreground for skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use of such active ingredients and Combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Chronological skin aging is caused, for example, by endogenous, genetically determined factors. The following structural damage and functional disorders occur in the epidermis and dermis due to aging, which can also fall under the term "senile xerosis": a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles, b) itching and c) reduced regreasing due to sebum glands (eg after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulative and e.g. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it is particularly caused by exogenous factors, e.g. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of skin aged naturally, and to the phenomena listed under a), e) and g).

Products for the care of sagging, especially aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their effect on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

Often, the sagging skin is also associated with an overweight and / or the associated so-called cellulite.

Body awareness among consumers has increased significantly in recent years. In addition to cleaning and care applications, measures are increasingly being taken to improve the body silhouette. Cellulite - one widespread phenomenon - occupies a central position. The visible picture of cellulite is based on an increase in fat deposits in the subcutis (subcutaneous fatty tissue), weak connective tissue and a decrease in the flow conditions in the blood and lymph channels. The cause is thus a partially plant-related weakening of the connective tissue with the simultaneous appearance of enlarged fat cell chambers due to overweight, unbalanced nutrition, lack of exercise. The development of cellulite can also be attributed to an increased permeability of the hair vessel walls, which allows water to penetrate into the connective tissue.

In addition, there may be a local lack of testosterone on the affected skin areas. Anyway, cellulite is a phenomenon that is almost never seen in men.

The object of the present invention was therefore to find ways which avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, it was an object of the present invention to provide preparations which can bring about an advantageous tightening of sagging skin.

It has surprisingly been found that the use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for firming the skin remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.

Sodium polystyrene sulfonate is sold, for example, under the trade name Flexan®. It is a high molecular weight polystyrene sulfonate with an anionic character and is available as a 30% aqueous solution; it corresponds to the following formula; its CTFA name is "Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate". Because of its ionic character, it is highly conductive and prevents the hair from being charged in hair cosmetic preparations in low concentrations.

According to the invention, the use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate is particularly advantageous for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of cellulite.

The amount of sodium polystyrene sulfonate in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl , Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodi- propionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinsulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathione sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate) , Tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxyl oluol, butylhydroxy-anisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg Trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for example in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more re emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording. However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 ^, -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomyli- denmethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention which also contains a UVB filter.

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in the preparations according to the invention, which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, for example antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments, the coloring effect have thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances zen, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products ,

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palmitate Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-oc- tyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C _2- i ₅ -alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _{2- 2-} ₅ alkylbenzoate, 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products , further alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.

Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, ceresin and microcrystallines) Waxes or ozokerite) and high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax)

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological O / W emulsions sprayable from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another , Compressed air can also be used advantageously. Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other associated circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons ( CFC).

Cosmetic preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents conventionally used for this purpose, preferably water, or organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is contained in the gel, for example, in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Examples 1-10: O / W creams

Example 11: W / O cream

Example 12: Hydrodispersion / Gel Cream

Claims

claims:

1. Use of sodium polystyrene sulfonate for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for firming and / or firming the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1 for cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of cellulite.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the amount of sodium polystyrene sulfonate is 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the preparations Total weight of the preparation.