WO1999037275A2 - COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS WITH A LESS STICKY FEEL, CONTAINING GLYCERIN ESTERS OF α-HYDROXY CARBOXYLIC ACIDS AND SATURED FATTY ACIDS - Google Patents

COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS WITH A LESS STICKY FEEL, CONTAINING GLYCERIN ESTERS OF α-HYDROXY CARBOXYLIC ACIDS AND SATURED FATTY ACIDS Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999037275A2
WO1999037275A2 PCT/EP1999/000056 EP9900056W WO9937275A2 WO 1999037275 A2 WO1999037275 A2 WO 1999037275A2 EP 9900056 W EP9900056 W EP 9900056W WO 9937275 A2 WO9937275 A2 WO 9937275A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
preparations
weight
cosmetic
fatty acids
derivatives
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PCT/EP1999/000056
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO1999037275A3 (en
Inventor
Gerhard Benner
Stephanie Von Der Fecht
Jens Nielsen
Sabine Schulz
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Priority to JP2000528259A priority Critical patent/JP2002501010A/en
Priority to EP99906107A priority patent/EP1049453A2/en
Publication of WO1999037275A2 publication Critical patent/WO1999037275A2/en
Publication of WO1999037275A3 publication Critical patent/WO1999037275A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/062Oil-in-water emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness containing glycerol esters of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the feeling of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • loss of the body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
  • Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • cosmetic and medical use and corresponding pro products refer to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
  • Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care in particular contain mixtures of oils or oil-soluble substances and water or water-soluble substances as essential components.
  • Certain components of the water phase e.g. Glycerin, but also the oil phase, e.g. tocopheryl acetate, have a negative effect on the sensory properties of the preparations in higher concentrations. This often manifests itself in an increased feeling of stickiness or a feeling of greasiness when using corresponding preparations, which in individual cases may not be marketable because they are not accepted by the consumer or judged negatively.
  • Another object of the present invention was to provide products with the widest possible range of applications. For example, basics for
  • compositions of preparation such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations gene, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical dosage forms are created, for example preparations against acne and other skin symptoms.
  • a particularly advantageous citric acid ester is glyceryl stearate citrate.
  • Such citric acid esters are available, for example, under the product name "IMWITOR® 370" from Hüls AG.
  • the total amount of one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6 , 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preferred fatty alcohol used according to the invention is cetyl-stearyl alcohol (a mixture of hexadecanol-1 and octadecanol-1 in approximately equal proportions).
  • the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • weight ratios of glycerol esters of ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids on the one hand and fatty alcohols on the other hand from 7: 3 to 3: 7, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2, particularly preferably from about 1: 1.
  • the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 5 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably
  • Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products .
  • Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-ethylhexyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-acrylate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jo
  • the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters, saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 -is alkylbenzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
  • Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 is up to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalma! One; - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine
  • 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UVB filters which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations.
  • Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. It can the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances are used.
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic active ingredients e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a
  • batyl alcohol ⁇ -octadecylglyceryl ether
  • selachyl alcohol ⁇ -9-octadecenylglyceryl ether
  • chimyl alcohol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • bisabolol ⁇ -hexadecylglyceryl ether
  • antioxidants it is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -lycopin) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocaninic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnos
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, , Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin
  • very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, apple) oleic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives
  • ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives) and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives) and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives and its derivatives, such as zinc and its derivatives and zinc and its derivatives and its derivatives, such as zinc and derivatives) eg selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the D suitable according to the invention Derivative
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customarily known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or as a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention in the form of a lotion which is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent wave treatment, these are e.g. to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, preferably non-ionic or cationic surface-active substances, the concentration of which can be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight .
  • These cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.
  • a cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion in the sense of the present invention which is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous one , alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as the active ingredient combinations according to the invention.
  • the amount of the polymers used is e.g. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
  • emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type.
  • Non-ionic In addition to water, emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.
  • Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active compound according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate.
  • the thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations characterised by the following features: they contain (I) one or several partially neutralised esters of monoglycerides and or di-glycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid, (II) one or several fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols with 12-40 carbon atoms, (III) they are prepared as O/W emulsions.

Description

Beschreibung description
Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen mit vermindertem Klebriαkeitsqefühl. enthaltend Glvcerinester von α-Hvdroxycarbonsäuren und gesättigten FettsäurenCosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness. containing glycerol esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids
Die vorliegende Erfindung betrifft kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen mit vermindertem Klebrigkeitsgefühl, Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung sowie die Verwendung von Wirkstoffen zur Herabminderung des Klebrigkeitsgefühles kosmetischer Zuberei- tungen.The present invention relates to cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a reduced feeling of stickiness, to processes for their preparation and to the use of active ingredients for reducing the feeling of stickiness of cosmetic preparations.
Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, daß die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z.B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z.B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.
Wird diese Funktion gestört, kann es zu verstärkter Resoφtion toxischer oder allergener Stoffe oder zum Befall von Mikroorganismen und als Folge zu toxischen oder allergischen Hautreaktionen kommen.If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.
Ziel der Hautpflege ist es femer, den durch tägliche Waschen verursachten Fett- und Wasserverlust der Haut auszugleichen. Dies ist gerade dann wichtig, wenn das natürliche Regenerationsvermögen nicht ausreicht. Außerdem sollen Hautpflegeprodukte vor Umwelteinflüssen, insbesondere vor Sonne und Wind, schützen und die Hautalterung verzögern.The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.
Medizinische Zusammensetzungen enthalten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Pro- dukten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding pro products refer to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
Häufige Erscheinungsformen kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Zubereitungen sind feindisperse Mehrphasensysteme, in welchen eine oder mehrere Fett- bzw. Ölphasen neben einer bzw. mehreren Wasserphasen vorliegen. Von diesen Systemen sind wiederum die eigentlichen Emulsionen die am weitesten verbreiteten.Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present in addition to one or more water phases. Of these systems, the actual emulsions are the most widespread.
Insbesondere Zubereitungen zur kosmetischen oder therapeutischen Hautpflege enthal- ten als wesentliche Bestandteile Abmischungen aus Ölen bzw. öllöslichen Substanzen und Wasser bzw. wasserlöslichen Substanzen. Bestimmte Bestandteile der Wasserphase, z.B. Glycerin, aber auch der Ölphase, z.B.Tocopherylacetat wirken sich in höheren Konzentrationen negativ auf die sensorischen Eigenschaften der Zubereitungen aus. Oft äußert sich dies in einem gesteigerten Klebrigkeitsgefühl oder auch Schmie- rigkeitsgefühl bei der Anwendung entsprechender Zubereitungen, welche dann im Einzelfalle nicht vermarktungsfähig sein können, da sie vom Verbraucher nicht akzeptiert bzw. negativ beurteilt werden.Preparations for cosmetic or therapeutic skin care in particular contain mixtures of oils or oil-soluble substances and water or water-soluble substances as essential components. Certain components of the water phase, e.g. Glycerin, but also the oil phase, e.g. tocopheryl acetate, have a negative effect on the sensory properties of the preparations in higher concentrations. This often manifests itself in an increased feeling of stickiness or a feeling of greasiness when using corresponding preparations, which in individual cases may not be marketable because they are not accepted by the consumer or judged negatively.
Es ist zwar bekannt, durch Hinzufügen bestimmter Substanzen, beispielsweise einiger ausgewählter Puderrohstoffe, insbesondere Talkum, dieses Klebrigkeitsgefühl oder auch Schmierigkeitsgefühl zu reduzieren. Davon abgesehen, daß dieses nur selten vollständig gelingt, wird durch einen solchen Zusatz auch die Viskosität des betreffenden Produktes verändert und die Stabilität verringert.It is known to reduce this feeling of stickiness or also of feeling of lubrication by adding certain substances, for example some selected powder raw materials, in particular talc. Apart from the fact that this is rarely completely successful, such an addition also changes the viscosity of the product in question and reduces the stability.
Aufgabe war daher, all diesen den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik Abhilfe zu schaffen. Insbesondere sollten Produkte mit verringerter Klebrigkeit bzw. Schmierigkeit zur Verfügung gestellt werden. Produkte auf dem Gebiete der pflegenden Kosmetik, der dekorativen Kosmetik und der pharmakologischen Galenik sollten gleichermaßen von den geschilderten Nachteilen des Standes der Technik befreit werden.The task was therefore to remedy all of these disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, products with reduced stickiness or greasiness should be made available. Products in the fields of care cosmetics, decorative cosmetics and pharmacological galenics should equally be freed from the disadvantages of the prior art described.
Weiterhin war es eine Aufgabe der Erfindung, kosmetische Grundlagen für kosmetische Zubereitungen zu entwickeln, die sich durch gute Hautverträglichkeit auszeichnen.Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic preparations which are notable for good skin tolerance.
Femer war eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, Produkte mit einer möglichst brei- ten Anwendungsvielfalt zur Verfügung zu stellen. Beispielsweise sollten Grundlagen fürAnother object of the present invention was to provide products with the widest possible range of applications. For example, basics for
Zubereitungsformen wie Reinigungsemulsionen, Gesichts- und Körperpflegezubereitun- gen, aber auch ausgesprochen medizinisch-pharmazeutische Darreichungsformen geschaffen werden, zum Beispiel Zubereitungen gegen Akne und andere Hauterscheinungen.Forms of preparation such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations gene, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical dosage forms are created, for example preparations against acne and other skin symptoms.
Erstaunlicherweise werden all diese Aufgaben gelöst durch kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen, durch folgende Merkmale gekennzeichnet: sie enthaltenSurprisingly, all of these tasks are solved by cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations, characterized by the following features: they contain
(I) einen oder mehrere partiell neutralisierte Ester von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure, (II) einen oder mehrere Fettaikohole gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen (III) sie stellen O/W-Emulsionen dar.(I) one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid, (II) one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols with 12 to 40 carbon atoms (III) they are O / W- Emulsions.
Erfindungsgemäß ist ferner die Verwendung von Kombinationen aus (I) einem oder mehreren partiell neutralisierten Estern von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure, sowieAccording to the invention is also the use of combinations of (I) one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid, and
(II) einem oder mehreren Fettalkoholen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Herstellung nicht-klebriger O/W-Emulsionen bzw. die Verwendung solcher Kombinationen zur Verminderung der Klebrigke'rt von O/W-EMulsionen.(II) one or more fatty alcohols, chosen from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, for the manufacture of non-sticky O / W emulsions and the use of such combinations to reduce the Klebrigke 'rt O / W Emulsions.
Ein besonders vorteilhafter Citronensäureester ist das Glycerylstearatcitrat. Solche Ci- tronensäureester sind beispielsweise erhältlich unter der Produktbezeichnung „IMWI- TOR® 370" der Gesellschaft Hüls AG.A particularly advantageous citric acid ester is glyceryl stearate citrate. Such citric acid esters are available, for example, under the product name "IMWITOR® 370" from Hüls AG.
Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren partiell neutralisierten Estern von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The total amount of one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6 , 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Bevorzugter, erfindungsgemäß verwendeter Fettalkohol ist der Cetyl-Stearylalkohol (ein Gemisch aus Hexadecanol-1 und Octadecanol-1 zu etwa gleichen Anteilen). Die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Fettalkoholen in den fertigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen wird vorteilhaft aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-% gewählt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.The preferred fatty alcohol used according to the invention is cetyl-stearyl alcohol (a mixture of hexadecanol-1 and octadecanol-1 in approximately equal proportions). The total amount of one or more fatty alcohols used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft, Gewichtsverhältnisse von Glycerinestern von α-Hy- droxycarbonsäuren und gesättigten Fettsäuren einerseits und Fettalkoholen andererseits von 7 : 3 bis 3 : 7 zu wählen, bevorzugt von 2 : 1 bis 1 : 2, insbesondere bevorzugt von etwa 1 : 1.It is advantageous according to the invention to choose weight ratios of glycerol esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids on the one hand and fatty alcohols on the other hand from 7: 3 to 3: 7, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2, particularly preferably from about 1: 1.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es möglich und vorteilhaft, den Anteil der Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen im Bereich von 5 bis 40 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, frei zu wählen.According to the invention, it is possible and advantageous to freely choose the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range from 5 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
Als Grundbestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können verwendet werden:The following can be used as basic components of the preparations according to the invention:
Wasser oder wäßrige LösungenWater or aqueous solutions
Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl; - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweiseOils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil; - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably
Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propy- lenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren; Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmo- noethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder - monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids; Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products .
Insbesondere werden Gemische der vorstehend genannten Lösungsmittel verwendet. Bei alkoholischen Lösungsmitteln kann Wasser ein weiterer Bestandteil sein.Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.
Die Ölphase der Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wird vorteilhaft gewählt aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsauren einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen, aus der Gruppe der Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren und gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 3 bis 30 C-Atomen. Solche Esteröle können dann vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropyloleat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Isooctyl- stearat, Isononylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Eru- cylerucat sowie synthetische, halbsynthetische und natürliche Gemische solcher Ester, z.B. Jojobaöl.The oil phase of the emulsions in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-ethylhexyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-hexyl-ethyl-acrylate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.
Ferner kann die Ölphase vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffe und -wachse, der Silkonöle, der Dialkylether, der Gruppe der gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkoho- le, sowie der Fettsäuretriglyceride, namentlich der Triglycerinester gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkancarbonsauren einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 24, insbesondere 12 - 18 C-Atomen. Die Fettsäuretriglyceride können beispielsweise vorteilhaft gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der synthetischen, halbsynthetischen und natürlichen Öle, z.B. Olivenöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Sojaöl, Erdnußöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Palmöl, Kokosöl, Palmkernöl und dergleichen mehr.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters, saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
Auch beliebige Abmischungen solcher Öl- und Wachskomponenten sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung einzusetzen. Es kann auch gegebenenfalls vorteilhaft sein, Wachse, beispielsweise Cetylpalmitat, als alleinige Lipidkomponente der Ölphase einzusetzen.Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
Vorteilhaft wird die Ölphase gewählt aus der Gruppe 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, Octyldode- canol, Isotridecylisononanoat, Isoeicosan, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, C12-ιs-Alkylbenzoat, Capryl-Caprinsäure-triglycerid, Dicaprylylether.The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C 12 -is alkylbenzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind Mischungen aus Cι -ιs-Alkybenzoat und 2-Ethylhexyiisostea- rat, Mischungen aus Cι2-ιs-Alkybenzoat und Isotridecylisononanoat sowie Mischungen aus Cι2-i5-Alkybenzoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat und Isotridecylisononanoat. Von den Kohlenwasserstoffen sind Paraffinöl, Squalan und Squalen vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden.Mixtures of C 1 -alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostate, mixtures of C 2 -alkybenzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C 2 -i 5 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate are particularly advantageous. Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
Vorteilhaft kann die Ölphase ferner einen Gehalt an cyclischen oder linearen Silikonölen aufweisen oder vollständig aus solchen Ölen bestehen, wobei allerdings bevorzugt wird, außer dem Silikonöi oder den Silikonölen einen zusätzlichen Gehalt an anderen Ölpha- senkomponenten zu verwenden.The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
Vorteilhaft wird Cyclomethicon (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) als erfindungsgemäß zu verwendendes Silikonöi eingesetzt. Aber auch andere Silikonöle sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden, beispielsweise Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydimethylsiloxan, Poly(methylphenylsiloxan).Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
Besonders vorteilhaft sind ferner Mischungen aus Cyclomethicon und Isotridecylisono- nanoat, aus Cyclomethicon und 2-Ethylhexylisostearat.Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.
Erfindungsgemäße Emulsionen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, z.B. in Form einer Hautschutzcreme, einer Hautlotion, einer kosmetischen Milch, beispielsweise in Form einer Sonnenschutzcreme oder einer Sonnenschutzmilch, sind vorteilhaft und enthalten z.B. Fette, Öle, Wachse und/oder andere Fettkörper, sowie Wasser und einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, wie sie üblicherweise für einen solchen Typ der Formulierung verwendet werden.Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, a skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a sun protection cream or a sun protection milk, are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.
Es ist dem Fachmanne natürlich bekannt, daß anspruchsvolle kosmetische Zusammen- Setzungen zumeist nicht ohne die üblichen Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe denkbar sind. Darunter zählen beispielsweise Konsistenzgeber, Füllstoffe, Parfüm, Farbstoffe, Emulgatoren, zusätzliche Wirkstoffe wie Vitamine oder Proteine, Lichtschutzmittel, Stabilisatoren, Insektenrepellentien, Alkohol, Wasser, Salze, antimikrobiell, proteolytisch oder keratoly- tisch wirksame Substanzen usw.It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.
Mutatis mutandis gelten entsprechende Anforderungen an die Formulierung medizinischer Zubereitungen.Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.
Medizinische topische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ent- halten in der Regel ein oder mehrere Medikamente in wirksamer Konzentration. Der Einfachheit halber wird zur sauberen Unterscheidung zwischen kosmetischer und medizinischer Anwendung und entsprechenden Produkten auf die gesetzlichen Bestimmungen der Bundesrepublik Deutschland verwiesen (z.B. Kosmetikverordnung, Lebensmittel- und Arzneimittelgesetz).Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. The For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).
Es ist dabei ebenfalls von Vorteil, die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Kombinationen aus Glycerinestem von α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren und gesättigten Fettsäuren einerseits und Fettalkoholen andererseits als Zusatzstoff zu Zubereitungen zu geben, die bereits andere Wirkstoffe für andere Zwecke enthalten.It is also advantageous to add the combinations of glycerol esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and saturated fatty acids on the one hand and fatty alcohols on the other hand as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.
Entsprechend können kosmetische oder topische dermatologische Zusammensetzungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, je nach ihrem Aufbau, beispielsweise verwendet werden als Hautschutzcreme, Reinigungsmilch, Sonnenschutzlotion, Nährcreme, Tages- oder Nachtcreme usw. Es ist gegebenenfalls möglich und vorteilhaft, die erfin- dungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Grundlage für pharmazeutische Formulierungen zu verwenden.Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis to use for pharmaceutical formulations.
Günstig sind auch solche kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen, die in der Form eines Sonnenschutzmittels vorliegen. Vorzugsweise enthalten diese neben dem erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff zusätzlich mindestens eine UVA-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens eine UVB-Filtersubstanz und/oder mindestens ein anorganisches Pigment.Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active ingredient used according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
Es ist aber auch vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindungen, solche kosmeti- sehen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen zu erstellen, deren hauptsächlicher Zweck nicht der Schutz vor Sonnenlicht ist, die aber dennoch einen Gehalt an UV-Schutzsubstanzen enthalten. So werden beispielsweise in Tagescremes gewöhnlich UV-A- bzw. UV-B-Filtersubstanzen eingearbeitet.However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
Vorteilhaft können erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen Substanzen enthalten, die UV- Strahlung im UVB-Bereich absorbieren, wobei die Gesamtmenge der Filtersubstanzen z.B. 0,1 Gew.-% bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 bis 6 Gew.-% beträgt, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen. Die UVB-Filter können öllöslich oder wasseriöslich sein. Als öllösliche Substanzen sind z.B. zu nennen:Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 is up to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations. The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher,3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2- ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Me- thoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure-Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid
(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester; - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-(4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-
Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe- non;Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalma!onsäuredi(2- ethylhexyl)ester; - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazinEsters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalma! One; - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine
Als wasserlösliche Substanzen sind vorteilhaft:The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances:
2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z.B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy- benzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, e.g. Sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornyliden- methyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.
Die Liste der genannten UVB-Filter, die erfindungsgemäß Verwendung finden können, soll selbstverständlich nicht limitierend sein.The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, in erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen UVA-Filter einzu- setzen, die üblicherweise in kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Bei solchen Filtersubstanzen handelt es sich vorzugsweise um Derivate des Dibenzoylmethans, insbesondere um 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)- propan-1 ,3-dion und um 1-Phenyl-3-(4'-isopropylphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion. Auch Zubereitungen, die diese Kombinationen enthalten, sind Gegenstand der Erfindung. Es kön- nen die gleichen Mengen an UVA-Filtersubstanzen verwendet werden, welche für UVB- Filtersubstanzen genannt wurden.It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Preparations containing these combinations are also the subject of the invention. It can the same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances are used.
Kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Er- findung können auch anorganische Pigmente enthalten, die üblicherweise in der Kosmetik zum Schütze der Haut vor UV-Strahlen verwendet werden. Dabei handelt es sich um Oxide des Titans, Zinks, Eisens, Zirkoniums, Siliciums, Mangans, Aluminiums, Cers und Mischungen davon, sowie Abwandlungen, bei denen die Oxide die aktiven Agentien sind. Besonders bevorzugt handelt es sich um Pigmente auf der Basis von Titandioxid. Es können die für die vorstehenden Kombinationen genannten Mengen verwendet werden.Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen können kosmetische Wirk-, Hilfs- und/oder Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in sol- chen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z.B. Antioxidationsmittel, Konservierungsmittel, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe, Pigmente, die färbende Wirkung haben, Verdickungsmittel, oberflächenaktive Substanzen, Emulgatoren, weichmachende, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermato- logischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elek- trolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
Es ist vorteilhaft, den Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung weitere antiirritative oder antientzündliche Wirkstoffe zuzugeben, insbesondere Batylalkohol (α- Octadecylglycerylether), Selachylalkohol (α-9-Octadecenylglycerylether), Chimylalkohol (α-Hexadecylglycerylether), Bisabolol und/oder Panthenol.For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to add further anti-irritant or anti-inflammatory active substances, in particular batyl alcohol (α-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (α-9-octadecenylglyceryl ether), chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), bisabolol and / or panthenol.
Es ist ebenfalls vorteilhaft, den Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung übliche Antioxidantien zuzufügen. Erfindungsgemäß können als günstige Antioxidantien alle für kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Anwendungen geeigneten oder gebräuchlichen Antioxidantien verwendet werden.It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as favorable antioxidants.
Vorteilhaft werden die Antioxidantien gewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Aminosäuren (z.B. Glycin, Histidin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan) und deren Derivate, Imidazole (z.B. Uro- caninsäure) und deren Derivate, Peptide wie D,L-Camosin, D-Carnosin, L-Carnosin und deren Derivate (z.B. Anserin), Carotinoide, Carotine (z.B. α-Carotin, ß-Carotin, ψ-Lyco- pin) und deren Derivate, Chlorogensäure und deren Derivate, Liponsäure und deren Derivate (z.B. Dihydroliponsäure), Aurothioglucose, Propylthiouracil und andere Thiole (z.B. Thioredoxin, Glutathion, Cystein, Cystin, Cystamin und deren Glycosyl-, N-Acetyl-, Methyl-, Ethyi-, Propyl-, Amyl-, Butyl- und Lauryl-, Palmitoyl-, Oleyl-, γ-Linoleyl-, Chole- steryl- und Glycerylester) sowie deren Salze, Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipro- pionat, Thiodipropionsäure und deren Derivate (Ester, Ether, Peptide, Lipide, Nukleoti- de, Nukleoside und Salze) sowie Sulfoximinverbindungen (z.B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in sehr geringen verträglichen Dosierungen (z.B. pmol bis μmol/kg), ferner (Metall)-Chelatoren (z.B. α-Hydroxyfettsäuren, Palmitinsäure, Phytinsäure, Lactoferrin), α-Hydroxysäuren (z.B. Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure), Huminsäure, Gallensäure, Gallenextrakte, Bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA und deren Derivate, ungesättigte Fettsäuren und deren Derivate (z.B. γ-Linolensäure, Linolsäure, Ölsäure), Folsäure und deren Derivate, Furfurylidensorbitol und dessen Derivate, Ubichinon und Ubichinol und deren Derivate, Vitamin C und Derivate (z.B. Ascorbylpalmitat, Mg-Ascorbylphosphat, Ascorbylacetat), Tocopherole und Derivate (z.B. Vitamin-E-acetat), Vitamin A und Derivate (Vitamin-A- palmitat) sowie Koniferylbenzoat des Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure und deren Derivate, α- Glycosylrutin, Ferulasäure, Furfurylidenglucitol, Carnosin, Butylhydroxytoluol, Butylhy- droxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyro- phenon, Harnsäure und deren Derivate, Mannose und deren Derivate, Zink und dessen Derivate (z.B. ZnO, ZnSO4) Selen und dessen Derivate (z.B. Selenmethionin), Stilbene und deren Derivate (z.B. Stilbenoxid, Trans-Stilbenoxid) und die erfindungsgemäß geeigneten Derivate (Salze, Ester, Ether, Zucker, Nukleotide, Nukleoside, Peptide und Lipide) dieser genannten Wirkstoffe.The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopin) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, , Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, apple) oleic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives , α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, eg zinc and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives) and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives) and its derivatives (zinc and its derivatives and its derivatives, such as zinc and its derivatives and zinc and its derivatives and its derivatives, such as zinc and derivatives) eg selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the D suitable according to the invention Derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.
Die Menge der Antioxidantien (eine oder mehrere Verbindungen) in den Zubereitungen beträgt vorzugsweise 0,001 bis 30 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 - 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung.The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
Sofern Vitamin E und/oder dessen Derivate das oder die Antioxidantien darstellen, ist vorteilhaft, deren jeweilige Konzentrationen aus dem Bereich von 0,001 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Formulierung, zu wählen. Als Treibmittel für aus Aerosolbehältern versprühbare kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die üblichen bekannten leichtflüchtigen, verflüssigten Treibmittel, beispielsweise Kohlenwasserstoffe (Propan, Butan, Isobutan) geeignet, die allein oder in Mischung miteinander eingesetzt werden können. Auch Druckluft ist vorteilhaft zu verwenden.If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation. Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customarily known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or as a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
Natürlich weiß der Fachmann, daß es an sich nichttoxische Treibgase gibt, die grundsätzlich für die Verwirklichung der vorliegenden Erfindung in Form von Aerosolpräparaten geeignet wären, auf die aber dennoch wegen bedenklicher Wirkung auf die Umwelt oder sonstiger Begleitumstände verzichtet werden sollte, insbesondere Fluorkohlenwasserstoffe und Fluorchlorkohlenwasserstoffe (FCKW).Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the implementation of the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with because of their harmful effects on the environment or other associated circumstances, in particular fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons ( CFCs).
Liegen die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung in Form einer Lotion vor, die ausgespült und z.B. vor oder nach der Ent- färbung, vor oder nach der Shampoonierung, zwischen zwei Shampoonierungsschritten, vor oder nach der Dauerwellbehandlung angewendet wir, so handelt es sich dabei z.B. um wäßrige oder wäßrig-alkoholische Lösungen, die gegebenenfalls oberflächenaktive Substanzen enthalten, bevorzugt nicht-ionische oder kationische oberflächenaktive Substanzen, deren Konzentration zwischen 0,1 und 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise zwischen 0,2 und 5 Gew.-%, liegen kann. Diese kosmetischen und/oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen können auch Aerosole mit den üblicherweise dafür verwendeten Hilfsmitteln darstellen.Are the cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention in the form of a lotion which is rinsed out and e.g. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, before or after permanent wave treatment, these are e.g. to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, which may contain surface-active substances, preferably non-ionic or cationic surface-active substances, the concentration of which can be between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight . These cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them.
Eine kosmetische Zubereitung in Form einer Lotion im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfin- düng, die nicht ausgespült wird, insbesondere eine Lotion zum Einlegen der Haare, eine Lotion, die beim Fönen der Haare verwendet wird, eine Frisier- und Behandlungslotion, stellt im allgemeinen eine wäßrige, alkoholische oder wäßrig-alkoholische Lösung dar und enthält mindestens ein kationisches, anionisches, nicht-ionisches oder amphoteres Polymer oder auch Gemische derselben, sowie die erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombi- nationen. Die Menge der verwendeten Polymeren liegt z.B. zwischen 0,1 und 10 Gew.- %, bevorzugt zwischen 0,1 und 3 Gew.-%.A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion in the sense of the present invention, which is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, generally provides an aqueous one , alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as the active ingredient combinations according to the invention. The amount of the polymers used is e.g. between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zur Behandlung undCosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention for the treatment and
Pflege der Haare, die den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Wirkstoff enthalten, können als Emulsionen vorliegen, die vom nicht-ionischen oder anionischen Typ sind. Nicht-ioni- sche Emulsionen enthalten neben Wasser Öle oder Fettalkohole, die beispielsweise auch polyethoxyliert oder polypropoxyliert sein können, oder auch Gemische aus den beiden organischen Komponenten. Diese Emulsionen enthalten gegebenenfalls kationische oberflächenaktive Substanzen.Care of the hair which contains the active ingredient used according to the invention can be present as emulsions which are of the non-ionic or anionic type. Non-ionic In addition to water, emulsions contain oils or fatty alcohols, which can also be polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example, or mixtures of the two organic components. These emulsions may contain cationic surface-active substances.
Kosmetische Zubereitungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zur Behandlung und Pflege der Haare können als Gele vorliegen, die neben einem wirksamen Gehalt am erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoff und dafür üblicherweise verwendeten Lösungsmitteln, bevorzugt Wasser, noch organische Verdickungsmittel, z.B. Gummiarabikum, Xanthan- gummi, Natriumalginat, Cellulose-Derivate, vorzugsweise Methylcellulose, Hydroxyme- thylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellu- lose oder anorganische Verdickungsmittel, z. B. Aluminiumsilikate wie beispielsweise Bentonite, oder ein Gemisch aus Polyethylenglykol und Polyethylenglykolstearat oder - distearat, enthalten. Das Verdickungsmittel ist in dem Gel z.B. in einer Menge zwischen 0,1 und 30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt zwischen 0,5 und 15 Gew.-%, enthalten.Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active compound according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen die vorliegende Erfindung verdeutlichen. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.
Beispiel 1example 1
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl 5,00Paraffin oil 5.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Dimethicon 1 ,00Dimethicone 1.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 2Example 2
Gew.-%% By weight
Paraffinöl 40,00Paraffin oil 40.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Dimethicon 1,00Dimethicone 1.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 3Water ad 100.00 Example 3
Gew.-%% By weight
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Paraffinöl 9,00Paraffin oil 9.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Dimethicon 1,00Dimethicone 1.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 4Example 4
Gew.-%% By weight
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Paraffinöl 14,00Paraffin oil 14.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Dimethicon 1,00Dimethicone 1.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 5Water ad 100.00 Example 5
Gew.-%% By weight
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Paraffinöl 19,00Paraffin oil 19.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Dimethicon 1 ,00Dimethicone 1.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 6Example 6
Gew.-%% By weight
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,00Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00
Paraffinöl 24,00Paraffin oil 24.00
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,00Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Dimethicon 1 ,00Dimethicone 1.00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s.Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s.
Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 7Water ad 100.00 Example 7
Gew.-%% By weight
Ethanol 3 00Ethanol 3 00
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Isohexadecan 2,00Isohexadecane 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2,00Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2.00
Paraffinöl 2,00Paraffin oil 2.00
Glycerylstearatcitrat 1 80Glyceryl stearate citrate 1 80
Cetylstearylalcohol 1 ,80Cetylstearylalcohol 1, 80
Dimethicon 1 ,ooDimethicon 1, oo
Carbomer 0,10Carbomer 0.10
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s. Wasser ad 100,00Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s. Water ad 100.00
Beispiel 8Example 8
Gew.-%% By weight
Glycerin 5,00Glycerin 5.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5,00Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.00
Ethanol 3,00Ethanol 3.00
Paraffinöl 3,00Paraffin oil 3.00
Microcrystallines Wachs, Paraffinöl 3,00Microcrystalline wax, paraffin oil 3.00
Cyclomethicon 2,00Cyclomethicone 2.00
Dimethicon 2,00Dimethicone 2.00
Octyldodecanol 2,00Octyldodecanol 2.00
Glycerylstearatcitrat 1 80Glyceryl stearate citrate 1 80
Cetylstearylalcohol 1 ,80Cetylstearylalcohol 1, 80
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Bisabolol 0,10Bisabolol 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Beispiel 9Dyes, perfume, preservatives qs water ad 100.00 Example 9
Gew.-%% By weight
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3,50Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.50
Glycerin 3,00Glycerin 3.00
Glycerylstearatcitrat 2,40Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.40
Cetylstearylalcohol 2,40Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.40
Isohexadecan 2,00Isohexadecane 2.00
Paraffinöl 2,00Paraffin oil 2.00
Octylmethoxycinnamat 1 ,30Octyl methoxycinnamate 1.30
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuceinate 1 ,00Aluminum Starch Octenyl Suceinate 1, 00
Dimethicon 1 ,00Dimethicone 1.00
Extrakt von Glycyrrhiza glabra 0,50Glycyrrhiza glabra extract 0.50
NaEDTA 0,50NaEDTA 0.50
Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethan 0,40Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 0.40
Carbomer 0,20Carbomer 0.20
Wollwachsalkohol 0,10Wool wax alcohol 0.10
Tocopherylacetat 0,10Tocopheryl acetate 0.10
Farbstoffe, Parfüm, Konservierungsmittel q.s. Wasser ad 100,00 Dyes, perfume, preservatives q.s. Water ad 100.00

Claims

Patentansprüche claims
1. Kosmetische oder pharmazeutische Zubereitungen, durch folgende Merkmale gekennzeichnet: Sie enthalten1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations, characterized by the following features: They contain
(I) einen oder mehrere partiell neutralisierte Ester von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure sowie(I) one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid and
(II) einen oder mehrere Fettalkohole gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen (III) sie stellen O/W-Emulsionen dar.(II) one or more fatty alcohols selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols with 12 to 40 carbon atoms (III) they are O / W emulsions.
2. Verwendung von Kombinationen aus2. Use of combinations
(I) einem oder mehreren partiell neutralisierten Estern von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure sowie(I) one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid and
(II) einem oder mehreren Fettalkoholen, gewählt aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylalkohole mit 12 bis 40 Kohlenstoffatomen, zur Herstellung nicht-klebriger OΛΛ-Emulsionen oder zur Verminderung der Klebrigkeit von O W-EMulsionen.(II) one or more fatty alcohols, selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl alcohols having 12 to 40 carbon atoms, for producing non-tacky OΛΛ emulsions or for reducing the stickiness of O W emulsions.
3. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als partiell neutralisierter Ester von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure das Glycerylstearatcitrat gewählt wird.3. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the glyceryl stearate citrate is chosen as partially neutralized ester of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid.
4. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als Fettalkohol der Cetyl-Stearylalkohol gewählt wird.4. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the cetyl-stearyl alcohol is chosen as the fatty alcohol.
5. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren partiell neutralisierten Estern von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure in den Zubereitungen gewählt wird aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.5. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the total amount of one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid in the preparations is selected from the range 0.1-10, 0% by weight, preferably 0.5-6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
6. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch ge- kennzeichnet, daß die Gesamtmenge an einem oder mehreren Fettalkoholen in den fer- tigen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen gewählt wird aus dem Bereich von 0,1 - 10,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5 - 6,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen.6. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols in the fer- term cosmetic or dermatological preparations is selected from the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
7. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß Gewichtsverhältnisse von partiell neutralisierten Estern von Monoglyceriden und/oder Diglyceriden gesättigter Fettsäuren mit Zitronensäure einerseits und Fettalkoholen andererseits gewählt werden aus dem Bereich von 7 : 3 bis 3 : 7, bevorzugt von 2 : 1 bis 1 : 2, insbesondere bevorzugt von etwa 1 : 1.7. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that weight ratios of partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid on the one hand and fatty alcohols on the other hand are selected from the range from 7: 3 to 3: 7, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2, particularly preferably from about 1: 1.
8. Zubereitungen nach Anspruch 1 oder Verwendung nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Anteil der Ölphase der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen im Bereich von 5 bis 40 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitungen, gewählt wird. 8. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the proportion of the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention in the range of 5 to 40 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, is selected.
PCT/EP1999/000056 1998-01-22 1999-01-07 COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL PREPARATIONS WITH A LESS STICKY FEEL, CONTAINING GLYCERIN ESTERS OF α-HYDROXY CARBOXYLIC ACIDS AND SATURED FATTY ACIDS WO1999037275A2 (en)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2000528259A JP2002501010A (en) 1998-01-22 1999-01-07 Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation with reduced stickiness, comprising a glycerol ester of an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid and a saturated fatty acid
EP99906107A EP1049453A2 (en) 1998-01-22 1999-01-07 Cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with a less sticky feel, containing glycerin esters of alfa-hydroxy carboxylic acids and satured fatty acids

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DE1998102204 DE19802204A1 (en) 1998-01-22 1998-01-22 Cosmetic or pharmacological oil in water emulsions with reduced stickiness
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WO2002049582A2 (en) * 2000-12-19 2002-06-27 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological light protective formulations containing benzotriazole derivatives and surface active citric acid esters
US9283162B2 (en) 2001-10-26 2016-03-15 Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. Composition for oily foamable aerosol

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DE10031324A1 (en) 2000-07-03 2002-01-17 Henkel Kgaa Stabilized cosmetic agent
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EP1216694A1 (en) * 2000-12-18 2002-06-26 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Combinations of surface-active citric acid esters and alpha lipoic acid , as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations with a content of said mixtures
WO2002049582A2 (en) * 2000-12-19 2002-06-27 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological light protective formulations containing benzotriazole derivatives and surface active citric acid esters
WO2002049582A3 (en) * 2000-12-19 2003-10-16 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic and dermatological light protective formulations containing benzotriazole derivatives and surface active citric acid esters
US9283162B2 (en) 2001-10-26 2016-03-15 Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd. Composition for oily foamable aerosol

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DE19802204A1 (en) 1999-07-29
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WO1999037275A3 (en) 1999-10-14

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