EP1377619A1 - Preparations cosmetiques - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques

Info

Publication number
EP1377619A1
EP1377619A1 EP02766616A EP02766616A EP1377619A1 EP 1377619 A1 EP1377619 A1 EP 1377619A1 EP 02766616 A EP02766616 A EP 02766616A EP 02766616 A EP02766616 A EP 02766616A EP 1377619 A1 EP1377619 A1 EP 1377619A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
oil
alcohol
independently
cosmetic preparations
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02766616A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Ludwig Schieferstein
Werner Seipel
Joachim Conradi
Dagmar Goebels
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cognis IP Management GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP1377619A1 publication Critical patent/EP1377619A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G18/00—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates
    • C08G18/06—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen
    • C08G18/28—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen characterised by the compounds used containing active hydrogen
    • C08G18/2805—Compounds having only one group containing active hydrogen
    • C08G18/2815—Monohydroxy compounds
    • C08G18/283—Compounds containing ether groups, e.g. oxyalkylated monohydroxy compounds
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G18/00—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates
    • C08G18/06—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen
    • C08G18/70—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen characterised by the isocyanates or isothiocyanates used
    • C08G18/72—Polyisocyanates or polyisothiocyanates
    • C08G18/77—Polyisocyanates or polyisothiocyanates having heteroatoms in addition to the isocyanate or isothiocyanate nitrogen and oxygen or sulfur
    • C08G18/78—Nitrogen
    • C08G18/7806—Nitrogen containing -N-C=0 groups
    • C08G18/7818—Nitrogen containing -N-C=0 groups containing ureum or ureum derivative groups
    • C08G18/7831—Nitrogen containing -N-C=0 groups containing ureum or ureum derivative groups containing biuret groups
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G18/00—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates
    • C08G18/06—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen
    • C08G18/70—Polymeric products of isocyanates or isothiocyanates with compounds having active hydrogen characterised by the isocyanates or isothiocyanates used
    • C08G18/72—Polyisocyanates or polyisothiocyanates
    • C08G18/77—Polyisocyanates or polyisothiocyanates having heteroatoms in addition to the isocyanate or isothiocyanate nitrogen and oxygen or sulfur
    • C08G18/78—Nitrogen
    • C08G18/79—Nitrogen characterised by the polyisocyanates used, these having groups formed by oligomerisation of isocyanates or isothiocyanates
    • C08G18/791—Nitrogen characterised by the polyisocyanates used, these having groups formed by oligomerisation of isocyanates or isothiocyanates containing isocyanurate groups
    • C08G18/792—Nitrogen characterised by the polyisocyanates used, these having groups formed by oligomerisation of isocyanates or isothiocyanates containing isocyanurate groups formed by oligomerisation of aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic isocyanates or isothiocyanates
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations with polyether urethanes as viscosity and consistency enhancers.
  • Polyether urethanes are polymers that result from the reaction of alcohol ethoxylates with isocyanates or polyisocyanates.
  • the thickeners used in preparations for cosmetics and personal care must meet high requirements. First and foremost, they are well tolerated and, if possible, have biodegradability, so that many substances for use in cosmetics have to be excluded from the outset. Furthermore, they should be universally applicable in aqueous, emulsoid, alcoholic and oil-based bases, be easy to process and lead to a rheology that is easy. The use of the product enables the preparations to be removed and distributed under clean and simple conditions. The compatibility with numerous other auxiliaries, in particular with salts and surfactants, and also the incorporability of the thickener itself, and the other auxiliaries, should be present.
  • thickened preparations must have a constant rheology and physical and chemical quality even with long-term storage, temperature and pH changes.
  • these thickeners should still be inexpensive to manufacture and without a noticeable environmental impact. This complex profile of requirements makes it clear that even today there is still a need for new thickeners in the field of cosmetics.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic formulations which, after addition of only small amounts of a thickener, enable easy application and a pleasant feeling on the skin. They should be easy to spread on skin and hair without leaving a sticky feeling.
  • the formulations are said to have improved physical and chemical stability and good skin and scalp compatibility.
  • the viscosity and consistency sensor used should also be insensitive to ionic additives, other auxiliary substances, pH and temperature fluctuations.
  • the invention relates to cosmetic preparations which contain polyether urethane thickeners according to formula (I)
  • R 3 (CH 2 -CH 2 -0) n -CO-NH- (CH 2 ) e.g.
  • Polyether urethanes are polymers that result from the reaction of alcohol ethoxylates with isocyanates or polyisocyanates.
  • Alcohol ethoxylates are referred to as fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol ethoxylates for production reasons and preferably follow the formula (II),
  • R 1 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 200.
  • Typical examples of the alcohol ethoxylates used in the polyether urethanes according to the invention are the adducts of on average 10 to 200, preferably 30 to 150 and in particular 80 to 120 mol ethylene oxide with capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol , Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palm oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures based, for example, on technical high-pressure hydrogenation Fats and oils or alde
  • Adducts of 40 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, in particular fatty alcohols with 16 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferred.
  • Aliphatic polyisocyanates can be used as isocyanates, preference being given to the use of diisocyanates which contain 1 to 10 methylene groups, preferably 4 to 8 methylene groups, particularly preferred is hexamethylene diisocyanate, which can also be linked to cyclic multiples of hexamethylene diisocyanate such as that commercially available Isocyanate T 1890® from Degussa, and in particular the trifunctional aliphatic hexamethylene diisocyanate, available under the name Desmodur RF® from Bayer.
  • cyclic polyisocyanates polyether urethanes according to formula (VI) are formed.
  • the average molecular weight of the polyether urethanes used in the invention is in the range from 4000 to 30,000, preferably 8,000 to 20,000 and in particular 10,000 to 15,000.
  • the agents according to the invention can contain the polyether urethanes in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the overall formulation.
  • the viscosity of the formulation can be set precisely by selecting the polyether urethanes with the appropriate molecular weight using the units of ethylene oxide.
  • the Thickened formulation can set viscosities in the range from 100 to 1,000,000 mPa-s, preferably 1,000 to 50,000 mPa-s, particularly preferably 4,000 to 35,000 mPa-s (Brookfield RVT viscometer, 10 rpm, spindle 4, room temperature).
  • Surfactant solutions in particular can be thickened well with the selected polyether urethanes, and the combination with alkyl (en) oligoglycosides and / or with alk (en) yl sulfates has proven particularly useful with regard to the stability and compatibility of the formulations.
  • Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (IV)
  • R 1 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably GJucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 1 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, as described above, and their technical mixtures -nen.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C 2 / M coco alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention can contain alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 20 and in particular 5 up to 10 wt .-% - based on the total formulation - contain.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates which are also often referred to as fatty alcohol sulfates, are to be understood as meaning the sulfation products of primary alcohols which follow the formula (V)
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched, aliphatic alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.
  • alkyl sulfates which can be used in the context of the invention are the sulfation products of capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, petroselachcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained by high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl ester fractions or Al- dehyden can be obtained from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the sulfation products can preferably be used in the form of their alkali salts and in particular their sodium salts.
  • Particularly preferred are alkyl sulfates based on C 16 / i koholen 8 -Talgfettal- or vegetable fatty alcohols of comparable carbon chain distribution in the form of their sodium salts.
  • the agents according to the invention can contain alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably 1 to 15, based on the total formulation.
  • the cosmetic agents thickened using the polyether urethanes according to the invention are used for the care, protection and cleaning of skin and hair, and therefore represent cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments.
  • agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency generators, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, Contain antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (de-pigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • mild surfactants oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency generators, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, Contain antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerin ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixedulfate sulfates, ether (mono) ether sulfate sulfates (ether) sulfate ethersulfate (ether) Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethi onates, fatty acid sarcosinates
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid amide hydrolysate (especially glucoronic acid amide) protein derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid amide hydrolysate, in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, glutamate fatty acid taurides, fatty acid, ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates , the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C ⁇ come as oil bodies, for example 3 - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols, such as myristylmy ristat, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearyli- sostearat, stearyl palmitate,
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of C 8 -C 38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ⁇ -C 22 fatty alcohols cf.
  • dioctyl malates esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C 6 -C 0 fatty acids, liquid mono7Di / triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 - 8 - fatty acids, esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C ⁇ 2 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 up to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohol carbonates, such as e.g.
  • dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C 6 -C 22 alcohols (e.g.
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexa
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides saturated (e.g. cellulose / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
  • Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • Suitable partial glycerides are Hydroxystearin Textremonogly- cerid, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklare- diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride klarediglycerid, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, ricinoleic, Linolklaremonoglycerid, Linolklarediglycerid, LinolenTalkremonogly- cerid, LinolenLiterediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, Erucaklaklarediglycerid, tartaric acid monoglyceride, Weinchurediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30,
  • sorbitan sorbitan As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, sorbitan come dierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, sorbitan tandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, sorbitan - sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui-tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritanartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquic
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl po- lyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina®), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimer
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol, if appropriate reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconutacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for
  • the fat known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 8 -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-
  • Alkyl taurines N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl amino acetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acyl amino aminoethyl propionate and C 2 8 -acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids
  • waxes include natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil - wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto
  • lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins to mean those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable. pearlescent
  • Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystea is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl
  • Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective.
  • Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanes, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanes
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers e.g. Mirapol® A
  • anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidonol Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); > Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-iso-propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ⁇ -methylbenzophenone, 2,2 , -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
  • Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 , -ethyl-r-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 , methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- (4, -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propan-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-ButyW- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4 ⁇ -isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4 , methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate.
  • benzoylmethane for example 4-tert-butyl-4 , methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl
  • water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck).
  • Silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples include amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anse- rin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathioninsulfoninsulfoninsulfoninsulfoxinsulfoxins) compatible dosages (e.g.
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, Malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C. and derivatives (e.g.
  • biogenic active ingredients include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, essentil oils, pseudoceramides Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.
  • Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycineate.
  • sterolsulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoeth
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which in addition to their function as odor coverers give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyd, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients: > astringent active ingredients,
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antihydrotically active substances are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1,2.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Antidandruff agents are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival® (climbazole), Keto-conazol®, (4-acetyl -l - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyethylenate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid pyrithione,
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils and flavors are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl benzylatepylpropylate, stylate propionate, stylate propionate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the joonons, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 99, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • This polyether urethane is a polyurethane made from stearyl alcohol'100
  • each one of the two NCO groups of three hexamethylene diisocyanate molecules are connected to one another via a (-CO-NR-) 3-membered 6-membered ring in a molar ratio of 3.15: 1.
  • Vacuum distillation 4-neck round bottom flask, stirrer, heating source (oil bath), contact thermometer, oil pump, cold trap
  • Stearyl alcohol'100 EO (Brij 700 P, Uniqema) is heated to 120 ° C. with stirring and nitrogen flushing and then dewatered for 2 hours using an oil pump.
  • Reflux equipment 4-neck round bottom flask, stirrer, heating source (oil bath), contact thermometer, intensive cooler, thermometer
  • a slight stream of nitrogen is passed over during the reaction phase.
  • the mixture is first heated to 100 ° C. and the triisocyanate is added.
  • the end point of the reaction is determined by NCO titration. After a reaction time of 1 hour, an NCO value below the detection limit is reached.
  • the batch is cooled to room temperature and filled.
  • the following preparations were prepared by mixing and homogenizing the starting materials at room temperature.
  • the polyether urethane thickener was incorporated at 40 to 50 ° C in the respective surfactant (Plantacare 2000 UP or Texapon ASV 50).
  • the viscosity of the cleaning solutions was examined 24 hours after preparation in a Brookfield RVT viscometer (10 rpm, spindle 4; for example 5 spindle 5).
  • the storage stability was assessed subjectively after four weeks of storage at 20, 30 and 40 ° C., the parameters flow behavior and appearance being assessed.
  • Table 1 Examples 1 to 5 are according to the invention, Examples VI to V4 are used for comparison.
  • Plantacare 2000UP Decyl Glucoside (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)
  • Texapon NSO Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)
  • Lamepon S Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)
  • TexaponASV 50 Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth 8-Sulfate and Magnesium Laureth Sulfate and Magnesium
  • Arlypon F Laureth-2 (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)
  • Antil 120 polyethylene glycol 120 methyl glucose dioleates (Goldschmidt, Essen)

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques contenant des épaississeurs polyéther uréthane de la formule (I) dans laquelle R<1>, R<2> et R<3> sont indépendamment l'un de l'autre des restes alkyle et/ou alcényle linéaires ou ramifiés portant 6 à 22 atomes de C ; x, y, et z sont indépendamment l'un de l'autre des nombres de 1 à 10 ; et, k, m et n sont indépendamment l'un de l'autre des nombres de 10 à 200. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation desdites préparations pour les soins et l'hygiène corporels et capillaires.
EP02766616A 2001-04-12 2002-04-03 Preparations cosmetiques Withdrawn EP1377619A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10118269A DE10118269A1 (de) 2001-04-12 2001-04-12 Kosmetische Zubereitungen
DE10118269 2001-04-12
PCT/EP2002/003703 WO2002088212A1 (fr) 2001-04-12 2002-04-03 Preparations cosmetiques

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WO2002088212A1 (fr) 2002-11-07
US20040115158A1 (en) 2004-06-17
DE10118269A1 (de) 2002-10-17
JP2004528355A (ja) 2004-09-16

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