EP1377619A1 - Cosmetic preparations - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing polyetherurethane thickening agents according to formula (I), in which R<1>, R<2> and R<3> independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl groups with between 6 and 22 carbon atoms, x, y, z independently of one another represent numbers from 1 to 10 and k, m and n independently of one another represent numbers between 10 and 200. The invention also relates to the use of said preparations for cleansing the skin and hair and for skin and hair care.

Description

Cosmetic preparations

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations with polyether urethanes as viscosity and consistency enhancers.

State of the art

Polyether urethanes are polymers that result from the reaction of alcohol ethoxylates with isocyanates or polyisocyanates.

These connections have been used in the printing industry for decades. Depending on the choice of starting materials and the stoichiometric ratio of the starting materials, polyether urethanes with very different physico-chemical properties are obtained.

In printing compositions for pigment printing, they improve the lubricity of the emulsions used (specification DE 1 081 225). Diisocyanates reacted with ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols with an ethylene oxide degree of 60 to 400 result in a viscosity in printing pastes which enables the reduction of organic solvents (OS DE 2054 885) and leads to brilliant prints. If thickeners containing aromatic diisocyanates are selected in these printing pastes, the advantageous properties of the printing pastes can be further improved.

The use of these thickeners in aqueous systems is described in the published patent application DE 36 30 319 AI. However, in order to obtain easily processable, low-viscosity and shear-stable substances instead of the aforementioned thickeners, which are pasty and solid products, polyether urethanes were produced here from a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and aliphatic alcohols with diisocyanates in a fixed molar ratio.

The thickeners used in preparations for cosmetics and personal care must meet high requirements. First and foremost, they are well tolerated and, if possible, have biodegradability, so that many substances for use in cosmetics have to be excluded from the outset. Furthermore, they should be universally applicable in aqueous, emulsoid, alcoholic and oil-based bases, be easy to process and lead to a rheology that is easy The use of the product enables the preparations to be removed and distributed under clean and simple conditions. The compatibility with numerous other auxiliaries, in particular with salts and surfactants, and also the incorporability of the thickener itself, and the other auxiliaries, should be present. In addition, the thickened preparations must have a constant rheology and physical and chemical quality even with long-term storage, temperature and pH changes. Ultimately, these thickeners should still be inexpensive to manufacture and without a noticeable environmental impact. This complex profile of requirements makes it clear that even today there is still a need for new thickeners in the field of cosmetics.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic formulations which, after addition of only small amounts of a thickener, enable easy application and a pleasant feeling on the skin. They should be easy to spread on skin and hair without leaving a sticky feeling. The formulations are said to have improved physical and chemical stability and good skin and scalp compatibility. The viscosity and consistency sensor used should also be insensitive to ionic additives, other auxiliary substances, pH and temperature fluctuations.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations which contain polyether urethane thickeners according to formula (I)

R ₃ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) _n -CO-NH- (CH ₂ ) _e.g.

(I) in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another for linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, z independently of one another for numbers from 1 to 10 and k, m and n independently represent numbers from 10 to 200, and their use in skin and hair care and cleansing. It has surprisingly been found that cosmetic compositions in which polyether urethanes have been used as viscosity and consistency enhancers have an advantageous rheology. The polyether urethanes used result in high thickening performance even in small quantities. It is also possible to thicken systems with low surfactant contents. The rheology of the formulations remains unchanged even after prolonged storage and at changing temperatures. The formulations are well tolerated by the skin and scalp. The small amounts of polymers lead to a pleasant, non-sticky feeling on the skin, so that sticking of hair is also avoided. The preparations show good physical and chemical stability even at high salt concentrations.

polyether

Polyether urethanes are polymers that result from the reaction of alcohol ethoxylates with isocyanates or polyisocyanates.

Alcohol ethoxylates are referred to as fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol ethoxylates for production reasons and preferably follow the formula (II),

R ¹ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) nH (II)

in which R ^{1 is} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 200. Typical examples of the alcohol ethoxylates used in the polyether urethanes according to the invention are the adducts of on average 10 to 200, preferably 30 to 150 and in particular 80 to 120 mol ethylene oxide with capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol , Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palm oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures based, for example, on technical high-pressure hydrogenation Fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction are obtained in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Adducts of 40 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, in particular fatty alcohols with 16 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferred. Aliphatic polyisocyanates can be used as isocyanates, preference being given to the use of diisocyanates which contain 1 to 10 methylene groups, preferably 4 to 8 methylene groups, particularly preferred is hexamethylene diisocyanate, which can also be linked to cyclic multiples of hexamethylene diisocyanate such as that commercially available Isocyanate T 1890® from Degussa, and in particular the trifunctional aliphatic hexamethylene diisocyanate, available under the name Desmodur RF® from Bayer. When using cyclic polyisocyanates, polyether urethanes according to formula (VI) are formed.

Also particularly preferred is the reaction product of a hexamethyl diisocyanate hydrolyzed on one side to the monoamine, each with one isocyanate group of two further hexamethylene diisocyanates to (III)

NCO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-- (CO-NH-CH ₂ -CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-NCO) 2 (III)

With regard to the production of the polyether urethanes, reference is made to the methods shown in DE 36 30 319 AI. A further method described in the present invention, which is of particular importance for the thickeners of the preparations according to the invention owing to the simple, inexpensive and rapid production, is shown in the examples. It is a process in which ethoxylated fatty alcohols are pre-dried, a cyclized diisocyanate is added to them in the reflux apparatus at 90 to 110 ° C., preferably 95 to 105 ° C. under a nitrogen atmosphere, and a reaction time of up to 3 hours, preferably 2 hours, but particularly preferred needs only one hour until the NCO value, which should be less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, is reached. It is particularly advantageous that the reaction proceeds without the addition of a catalyst and that the reaction time is very short.

The average molecular weight of the polyether urethanes used in the invention is in the range from 4000 to 30,000, preferably 8,000 to 20,000 and in particular 10,000 to 15,000.

The agents according to the invention can contain the polyether urethanes in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the overall formulation.

Depending on the composition and type of cosmetic preparation, the viscosity of the formulation can be set precisely by selecting the polyether urethanes with the appropriate molecular weight using the units of ethylene oxide. Depending on the Thickened formulation can set viscosities in the range from 100 to 1,000,000 mPa-s, preferably 1,000 to 50,000 mPa-s, particularly preferably 4,000 to 35,000 mPa-s (Brookfield RVT viscometer, 10 rpm, spindle 4, room temperature). Surfactant solutions in particular can be thickened well with the selected polyether urethanes, and the combination with alkyl (en) oligoglycosides and / or with alk (en) yl sulfates has proven particularly useful with regard to the stability and compatibility of the formulations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (IV)

R'O-tGJ _p (IV)

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant preparative organic chemistry methods. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B.Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J.Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably GJucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound and especially here can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can differ from primary alcohols with 4 to 11, preferably derive 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronalcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligo-glucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ coconut oil alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight. % C ₂ alcohol may be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C ₉ π-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, as described above, and their technical mixtures -nen. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _{2 / M} coco alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred. The agents according to the invention can contain alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 20 and in particular 5 up to 10 wt .-% - based on the total formulation - contain.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates

Alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates, which are also often referred to as fatty alcohol sulfates, are to be understood as meaning the sulfation products of primary alcohols which follow the formula (V)

R ^ -SO ^ (V)

in which R ^{1 represents} a linear or branched, aliphatic alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples of alkyl sulfates which can be used in the context of the invention are the sulfation products of capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, petroselachcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained by high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl ester fractions or Al- dehyden can be obtained from Roelen's oxosynthesis. The sulfation products can preferably be used in the form of their alkali salts and in particular their sodium salts. Particularly preferred are alkyl sulfates based on C _{16 /} i koholen ₈ -Talgfettal- or vegetable fatty alcohols of comparable carbon chain distribution in the form of their sodium salts.

The agents according to the invention can contain alkyl and / or alkenyl sulfates in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably 1 to 15, based on the total formulation.

Industrial applicability

The cosmetic agents thickened using the polyether urethanes according to the invention are used for the care, protection and cleaning of skin and hair, and therefore represent cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency generators, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, Contain antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (de-pigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Other surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of which in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerin ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixedulfate sulfates, ether (mono) ether sulfate sulfates (ether) sulfate ethersulfate (ether) Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethi onates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid amide hydrolysate (especially glucoronic acid amide) protein derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid amide hydrolysate, in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example, J.Falbe (ed.) _/ "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, glutamate fatty acid taurides, fatty acid, α-olefinsulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates , the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -Cι come as oil bodies, for example ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as myristylmy ristat, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearyli- sostearat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, Isostearylpal-, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbe- tribehenate, rat oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl, Erucylstea-, Erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C _ό -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 AI), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₀ fatty acids, liquid mono7Di / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ - ₈ - fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -Cι ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 up to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as e.g. dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms, on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical

(regardless of the compounds previously converted to thickeners with isocyanates);

> Addition products of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated

castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides saturated (e.g. cellulose / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE

1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

> Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate.

> Ethylene oxide addition products

Other addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the medium rer degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _{2 8} fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations. These ethylene oxide addition products can be present in the formulation in addition to the molecules converted to thickeners with isocyanates.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are Hydroxystearinsäuremonogly- cerid, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäure- diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride säurediglycerid, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, ricinoleic, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonogly- cerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, tartaric acid monoglyceride, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

Sorbita nests

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, sorbitan come dierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, sorbitan tandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, sorbitan - sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui-tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritanartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan tritone, sorbitan tritone Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable. Polyglvcerinester

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, diisostearoyl po- lyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina®), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol, if appropriate reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconutacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinate, and 2 -Alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fat known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. acid amide derivative. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N- alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-

Alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl amino acetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acyl amino aminoethyl propionate and C _{2 8} -acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, waxes include natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil - wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The skilled worker understands the term lecithins to mean those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable. pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

thickener

In addition to the polyether urethanes according to the invention, other consistency agents and thickeners can be used. Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystea is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride are also suitable. superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyamino polyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanes, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl vinyl pyrrolidonol Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers as well as optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); > Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-iso-propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 ^Λ -methylbenzophenone, 2,2 ^, -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;

> Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 ^, -ethyl-r-hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 ^, methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- ^(4, -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- ^{(4-methoxyphenyl)} propan-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-ButyW- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4 ^Λ -isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4 ^, methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Other suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples include amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anse- rin), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathioninsulfoninsulfoninsulfoninsulfoxinsulfoxins) compatible dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, Malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C. and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-Glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase (eg Zn and ₄ ), and its derivative, eg Zn and its derivatives, eg Zn and its derivatives, Zn and its derivatives (eg Zn and ₄ ) its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (Sa lze, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Bioqene active ingredients

Examples of biogenic active ingredients include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, essentil oils, pseudoceramides Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

> Germ inhibitors

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2' -hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 ^{'methylene-bis} (6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -l, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 ^' - trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glyceryl rinin , Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as. B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

Enzvminhibitoren

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycineate.

odor absorbers

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which in addition to their function as odor coverers give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyd, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, manidinenlylamine oil, cyclone oil, orange aldol oil, orange glycolate, orange oil, are preferred , Muscatel sage oil, ß-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate used alone or in mixtures.

> Antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients: > astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency generator,

> Auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antihydrotically active substances are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

> anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Keto-conazol®, (4-acetyl -l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyethylenate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyrithione, sulfate, magnesium pyridine, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium sulfate; ,

Ouellmittel

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents. hydrotropes

Hydrotropes, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allylcyclohexyl benzylatepylpropylate, stylate propionate, stylate propionate. The ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the joonons, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, lavenderlyl oil, orange oil alaline oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, ß-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate, used alone or in mixtures. Suitable flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 99, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

The following examples are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail without restricting it thereto. The polyether urethane described under Preparation was used in Examples Tables 1, 2 and 3.

Production of a polyether urethane according to the formula fl)

This polyether urethane is a polyurethane made from stearyl alcohol'100

EO (Brij 700 P, Uniqema) and trimerized hexamethylene diisocyanate (Desmodur N

3300 K, BAYER, Leverkusen; each one of the two NCO groups of three hexamethylene diisocyanate molecules are connected to one another via a (-CO-NR-) 3-membered 6-membered ring in a molar ratio of 3.15: 1.

1. Predrying

Apparatus:

Vacuum distillation: 4-neck round bottom flask, stirrer, heating source (oil bath), contact thermometer, oil pump, cold trap

Execution:

Stearyl alcohol'100 EO (Brij 700 P, Uniqema) is heated to 120 ° C. with stirring and nitrogen flushing and then dewatered for 2 hours using an oil pump.

Then it is aerated with nitrogen, cooled to 80 ° C. and converted into a reflux apparatus.

2nd reaction

Apparatus:

Reflux equipment: 4-neck round bottom flask, stirrer, heating source (oil bath), contact thermometer, intensive cooler, thermometer

Recipe: template

195.6 g Brij 700 P NO-AOX-NENA (0.0558 mol) additives

7.8 g Desmodur N3300 K (0.0177 mol) Execution:

A slight stream of nitrogen is passed over during the reaction phase. The mixture is first heated to 100 ° C. and the triisocyanate is added. The end point of the reaction is determined by NCO titration. After a reaction time of 1 hour, an NCO value below the detection limit is reached. The batch is cooled to room temperature and filled.

3. Specification

Riser pipe melting point [DGF standard method C-IV 3a (52)]: 49 ° C

The following preparations were prepared by mixing and homogenizing the starting materials at room temperature. The polyether urethane thickener was incorporated at 40 to 50 ° C in the respective surfactant (Plantacare 2000 UP or Texapon ASV 50). The viscosity of the cleaning solutions was examined 24 hours after preparation in a Brookfield RVT viscometer (10 rpm, spindle 4; for example 5 spindle 5). The storage stability was assessed subjectively after four weeks of storage at 20, 30 and 40 ° C., the parameters flow behavior and appearance being assessed. The compositions and results are summarized in Table 1. Examples 1 to 5 are according to the invention, Examples VI to V4 are used for comparison.

Table 1

Quantities in% by weight

INCI name

Plantacare 2000UP: Decyl Glucoside (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)

Texapon NSO: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)

Lamepon S: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)

TexaponASV 50: Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Sodium Laureth 8-Sulfate and Magnesium Laureth Sulfate and Magnesium

Laureth 8-Sulfate and Sodium Oleth Sulfate and Magnesium Oleth Sulfate (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf) Dehyton DC: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)

Arlypon F: Laureth-2 (Cognis GmbH, Dusseldorf)

Antil 120: polyethylene glycol 120 methyl glucose dioleates (Goldschmidt, Essen)

Polyether urethane *: polyether urethane according to formula (I) in which R ¹ and R ² = C16; x = 3; m and n = 100

storage stability

-: poor viscosity stability between 20 and 40 ° C

+: low viscosity stability between 20 and 40 ° C

++: good viscosity stability between 20 and 40 ° C

+++: excellent viscosity stability between 20 and 40 ° C Table 3

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(11-15) bubble bath, (16) soft cream, (17) moisturizing emulsion, (18) night cream

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations containing polyether urethane thickeners, according to formula (I),

(I)

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another for linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, z independently of one another for numbers from 1 to 10 and k, m and n independently of one another for Numbers from 10 to 200 are available.

2. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that K, m and n independently of one another represent numbers from 80 to 120.

3. Cosmetic preparations according to claim 1 and / or claim 2, characterized in that x, y and z is six.

4. Cosmetic preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

5. Cosmetic preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain polyether urethane thickeners in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight based on the total preparation

6. Cosmetic preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain polyether urethane thickeners in amounts of 0.1 to 1% by weight based on the total preparation.

7. Cosmetic preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain polyether urethane thickeners which have an average molecular weight in the range from 4,000 to 30,000.

8. Cosmetic preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain alk (en) yl oligoglycosides and / or alk (en) yl sulfates as further auxiliaries.

9. Use of preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 8 for the care, protection and cleaning of skin and hair.

10. A process for the preparation of polyether urethane thickeners, characterized in that

(a) Pre-dried ethoxylated fatty alcohols

(b) in the reflux apparatus at 90 to 110 ° C under a nitrogen atmosphere, aliphatic diisocyanates or triisocyanates and

(c) the reaction is ended after a maximum of 3 hours at an NCO value below 0.1% by weight (determined by NCO titration).

11. Cosmetic preparations containing polyether urethane thickeners according to formula (VI)

R ₃ - (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CO-NH- (CH ₂ ) _e.g.

(VI)

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another for linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y, z independently of one another for numbers from 1 to 10 and k, m and n independently of one another for Numbers from 10 to 200 are available.