EP1377254A2

EP1377254A2 - Cosmetic and dermatological preparations comprising an isoflavone content

Info

Publication number: EP1377254A2
Application number: EP02727450A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Stefan Gallinat; Kirsten Venzke; Andreas Herpens; Helga Biergiesser; Franz STÄB
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2001-03-23
Filing date: 2002-03-21
Publication date: 2004-01-07
Also published as: WO2002076409A3; WO2002076409A2; US20040170655A1; DE10114305A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of isoflavones for producing preparations for reducing sebum production and/or for setting a normal sebum homeostasis, in addition to the prophylaxis and treatment of greasy hair and dandruff.

Description

description

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing isoflavones and use of isoflavones for the production of cosmetic and dermatological preparations for reducing the sebum content of the skin.

The present invention relates to the use of topical preparations for reducing sebum production, for maintaining normal sebum homeostasis, for removing sebum from the skin, in particular for removing and clarifying comedones, for preventing comedone formation, for the prophylaxis and treatment of mild forms of acne and for the prophylaxis and control of seborrhea and blemished skin.

Sebaceous gland overproduction and the possible skin disorders that develop from it, such as sebum retention, formation of comedones in the region of the sebaceous glands, ie in the face (especially the forehead, nose and chin) and on the upper back, are frequently encountered skin problems that have so far not been satisfactory have been resolved.

Sebum is the secretion of the sebum gland. Sebaceous glands are bulges of the follicular epithelium and therefore part of the follicle with which they form a functional unit. They are holocrine glands, which means that the entire glandular cell is largely converted into the sebum secretion. The cells of the sebum gland, which are constantly renewed from below, grease and decay, and the skin sebum formed in this way is emptied onto the surface of the skin through the follicle openings.

According to G. Leonardy (J.Ft. Jellinek cosmetology, purpose and structure of cosmetic preparations, Dr. Alfred Hüthig-Verlag, Heidelberg - Mainz - Basel, third completely revised and significantly expanded edition 1976, pages 26 to 29), the skin sebum consists of mono -, Di- and triglycerides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ ), waxes (C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ ), wax esters (C ₂₈ -C ₃₈ ), normal saturated fatty acids (C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ ), branched chain saturated fatty acids (Cn-dβ), multi-branched saturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ -C ₁₈ ), monounsaturated fatty acids (Cn-C ₁₈ ), polyunsaturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ , C ₁₅ -C ₁₇ ), sterols (cholestones, 7-dehydrocholesterιn, 7-hydroxycholesterιn), branched and unbranched hydrocarbons (C ₃₀ -C ₄ o), squalene and phosphohpides

Together with the water secretion of the eccrine sweat glands, the lipids of the sebaceous glands form the so-called hydro-lipid film of the skin. This surface film is an emulsion, which can be a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion. It has the function to keep the skin surface supple and to regulate the water content of the deeper skin layers. With good hydration of the sebum, the water content is at least 10 to 20% by weight and the sebum is hydrophilic. The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surface film is no longer given and the water content drops , the sebum changes and becomes hydrophobic. The sebum outflow from the sebaceous gland and follicle is obstructed. The skin sebum stagnates in the follicles, which can then lead to comedones and inflammation of the follicles

The change in skin sebum and the initiation of comedone formation can have various causes. For example, external influences such as incorrect cleaning habits and incorrect care, comedogenic substances in cosmetics, weathering influences, alkaline soaps, harsh detergents. Increased sebum gland secretion and the formation of comedones can also develop through genetic factors and hormonal influences. Here too, comedones, defecation, pra-acne and acne with their after-effects can result

The frequency of skin damage due to impaired sebum gland function and diseases of the sebum glands is increasing more and more, and the return / avoidance of comedone formation is a matter of urgency. However, previous attempts to solve comedone formation as a causal problem have led to unsatisfactory results

In addition to the manual removal of the comedones by printing, there are numerous

Known cleaning methods that try to remove comedones and prevent long-term comedone formation. These include special soaps, Skin-shelling compositions and the like softening and enhancing agents are also used. In addition, attempts are made to reduce the tendency to acne by adding drying, keratolytic, antiseborrheic and antibacterial agents in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations without irritation of the skin or drying out of the skin Adjust skin

However, skin cleansing degreases the skin and removes moisture from it. In addition, soaps have the disadvantage that the water-insoluble calcium and magnesium salts of the higher fatty acids that form on the skin form insoluble deposits when using the soaps in hard water. These deposits remain on the skin for a long time if they are difficult to unwind Skin, clog the mouth of the follicles and can lead to the formation of comedones.Therefore, syndets (i.e. non-soap surfactants) in the form of washing creams or washing lotions are mainly used for skin cleansing.These syndets do not form lime soaps, but treatment with highly surface-active agents has been on the skin has a stronger degreasing and drying effect than soap The more frequently soap and surfactant-containing products are used on the skin, the clearer are their adverse effects, namely degreasing and drying out of the skin by destroying the hydro -Lipid film in the foreground Almost always, the reduction of the comedones leads to a lowering of the water content in the upper layers of the skin and to a firm formation of concrements in the sebaceous glands, which in turn can induce inflammation. The lowering of the moisture content of the skin is, however, for a caring removal of the comedones counterproductive

Seborrhea is an increased function of the sebaceous glands due to predisposition. Both the scalp and the facial skin appear greasy. The composition of seborrhoeic sebum is different from that of normal sebum. There are 3 stages of seborrhea development: 1 simple seborrhea mild trap, greasy after 8 days 2 oily seborrhea already after 2-3 days greasy

3 Irreversible form is irreversible. Seborrhea, in which the hair looks bathed in fat after just one day

The excessive secretion of the sebaceous glands can be triggered by, among other things, androgenetic disorders and has an aesthetic disadvantage on the Velvet image of the hair This disorder can also be the cause of hair loss. The precursor is the seborrhoeic condition of the scalp. Vegetative disorders and improper care can worsen the complexion and the condition of the hair. Even with seborrhea, the hair itself can be dry due to disorders in the build-up of keratin Dry, damaged hair is often caused by external stress such as the sun or chemical treatments. Too hot blow drying or improper care of damaged hair can lead to damage

The causes of oily hair are in the human body and are caused by hormones. Each hair has its own sebum gland, which produces fat (sebum, sebum). Sebum production is hormonally controlled and, depending on the hormone sensitivity of the sebum gland, it can cause an overuse - or come underproduction The sebum itself has the function of keeping the scalp supple. It reaches the scalp from the sebaceous gland and only later the hairline. There it is normally absorbed by the hair shaft and remains invisible Able to take it in. It is visible as a greasy film on the hair

Because the production of sebum glands is dependent on the hormone balance, the problem of greasy hair cannot be solved in principle, because the sebum glands constantly produce fat. Consistent care and high-quality care series are still the best method to combat oily hair

Oily hair has very heavy effects. The hair becomes streaky again shortly after washing and the hairstyle does not hold

Contrary to popular belief, it is only a rumor that washing your hair too often makes your hair greasy more quickly. Mild shampoos for greasy hair ensure that excessive fat is removed. Hair and scalp are supplied with sufficient moisture and balance the overproduction of the sebum glands

Oily hair and dandruff are among the most common hair problems

Anomalies are due to a disruption of the sebum gland activity. If the sebum glands are overactive, we speak of seborrhea. to distinguish between the oily form (seborrhea oleosa) and the dry form (seborrhea sicca)

Seborrhoea oleosa Here there is an overfunction of the sebaceous glands, in which the sebum glands produce too much and too oily sebum. The skin therefore shows an oily sheen, and the hair is greasy and streaky up to the tips just 2 to 3 days after washing

Seborrhoea sicca It is also due to an overfunction of the sebaceous glands, but the skin sebum is drier, it has a firmer consistency. With the scales of the epidermis, it forms large, easily rubbed sebum scales , the long ones and especially the tips are dry and even brittle

The treatment of seborrhea includes regular and thorough head washing with special shampoos, which can be carried out as often as necessary.The wash should be combined with a massage in the connective tissue, because it empties sebum glands more, which delays re-greasing

The object of the present invention is to provide a preparation which does not have the disadvantages of the known and previously used agents, which has a sebum-reducing, fat-regulating and nourishing effect at the same time, removes the comedones already present without irritation, degreasing and drying out effectively prevents the skin, which brings homeostasis of sebum secretion to a normal state, prevents the formation of comedones and the development of inflammatory skin symptoms, as well as improves existing skin inflammations and cares for the skin equally

This object is achieved according to the invention by the use of isoflavones for the preparation of preparations for reducing the production of sebum

Surprisingly, when using the preparation, the comedogenic effect of the raw materials used in the preparation is eliminated, and thus the formation of Comedones and, accordingly, the development of acne caused by cosmetic ingredients.

It has also been found that the active ingredients used according to the invention prevent the formation of seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair, but also dandruff, and to eliminate existing seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair, but also dandruff.

Isoflavones are a group of flavonoids, sometimes also called isoflavonoids, of mostly yellowish-colored plant dyes that are derived from isoflavone. The unsubstituted body, the actual isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one) comes for. B. in clover.

Some more well-known isoflavones are Daidzeϊn (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), as 7-O-Glucosid Daidzin z. B. in soy flour; Genistein (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy isoflavone) e.g. B. from soybeans and red clover; Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) e.g. B. from the bark of plum trees; Biochanin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy-isoflavone) e.g. B. from chickpeas, red clover and other types of clover; Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) e.g. B. from sandalwood, redwood and other woods; Pratenseϊn (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone) e.g. B. from fresh red or meadow clover.

The substitution schemes for some naturally occurring isoflavones are listed below:

The isoflavones to be used according to the invention are preferably the isoflavones listed below:

where A, B, C, Ri, R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₇ and R _{8 can represent the} following substituents: H, OH, OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₂ H ₅ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₃ H ₇ ) ₂ , OCH (CH ₃ ) (C ₂ H ₅ ), C, - C ₁₀ alkyl, O-glucopyranosyl, mono-, di-, oligosaccharides, acetyl, malonyl and OR ₆ (with R ₆ = d - Cio alkyl).

Of these in turn preferred are genistein, genistin, daidzein, daidzin, glycetein, glycetin, biochanin A, formononetin and ipriflavone as well as derivatives of the isoflavones mentioned with the designated substituents. According to the invention are thus also a method for the prophylaxis against and treatment of impure skin, inflammatory skin conditions or seborrhiosis phenomena, in particular oily hair and / or dandruff, characterized in that the active ingredients used according to the invention in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological vehicle with which increased sebum production affected area

The prior art did not provide the slightest indication of the use according to the invention as an antiseborrheic active principle

A further preferred embodiment of the present invention are therefore formulations to be used against dandruff, for example antidandruff shampoos

According to the invention, the active ingredients are preferably used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions with a content of 0.0005-50.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The compositions advantageously contain 0 , 02-10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.02-5.0% by weight of the active ingredients used according to the invention, very particularly advantageously 0.5-3.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition

It can be advantageous according to the invention to add further agents which are effective against sebum to the preparations according to the invention, for example selected from the group distarium phosphate, cyclodextine, sodium corn starch octylene succinate, sihca dimethyl silylate, hydroxypropyl distark phosphate, tapioca dextine, aluminum starch -Octylene succinate, acrylate copolymer, magnesium carbonate, corn starch, aluminum starch-octylene sucrose, kaolin, nylon (eg nylon 6/12), bentonite, sodium silicate rubber, boron nitride, silica, mica + titanium dioxide It is advantageous to encapsulate the active compounds according to the invention, for example as so-called solid hpid nanoparts with the aid of melted waxes, which can be selected, inter alia, but not exclusively, from the group of the ester waxes, glycine waxes or hydrocarbon waxes. Furthermore, it can be advantageous to encapsulate the active ingredient according to the invention in polymers, for example in particles based on highly crosslinked polymethacre ylates and / or cellulose acetates and / or as core / shell particles with Particles with a shell made of poly (oxymethylurea), nylon, polyamides, polyurethane, polyester, gelatin and polyolefins

The combination of one or more substances selected from the above group with the isoflavones used according to the invention leads to a synergistic intensification of the action of the individual substances and thus has an independent inventive step

The active substances used according to the invention can be incorporated into common cosmetic or dermatological formulations without difficulty, advantageously in pump sprays, aerosol sprays, creams, ointments, tinctures, lotions, sticks, washing products and the like

It is also possible and possibly advantageous to combine the active substances used according to the invention with other active substances, for example with other antimicrobial, antimycotic or antiviral substances

It is advantageous to buffer the compositions according to the invention. A pH range from 3.0 to 9.0 is advantageous. It is particularly advantageous to choose the pH value in a range from 4.0 to 6.5

The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used to treat the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. They can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics

For use, the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatics

Preparations which contain the active compound combinations according to the invention and conventional antioxidants can be used according to the invention The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosin and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene, phytoene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydro- ponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystm, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl -, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximme, Homocyste- insulfoximin, Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathionin sulfoximine) in very low contractual dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactofernn), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) ), Tetrahydrocurcumin, humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bihrubin, bihverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, polyavoleic acid, flavonoid acid , Vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoic resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxyto - Luol, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsaure, Nordihydroguajaretsaure, Tri- hydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of The active ingredient used is carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.

The active ingredient used according to the invention can advantageously be incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (OW), or a multiple emulsion, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert the active ingredient used according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. These include, for example, consistency agents, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytically active substances, etc.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. The For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

It is also advantageous to add the active ingredient used according to the invention as an additive to preparations which already contain other active ingredients for other purposes.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous, for example, to use a content of UV protection substances.

Preparations according to the invention can therefore advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to name: 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid

(2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 ^, -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The following are advantageous as water-soluble substances: 2-phenylbenzιmιdazol-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or the triethanolammonium salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, - sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidomethyl) benzenesulfonic acid , 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylιdenmethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts

The list of UVB filters mentioned which can be used according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting

It can also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention which are usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations. Such filter substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) ) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dion and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dion Also preparations which contain these combinations are the subject of the invention The same amounts of UVA filter substances that were mentioned for UVB filter substances can be used

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese , Aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Pigments based on titanium dioxide are particularly preferred. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations used according to the invention can contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. antioxidants, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, solvents can be used

Water or aqueous solutions

Oils, such as triglycene of Capπn- or Caprylsure, but preferably RIZI- nusol,

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or Glycerm, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkane acids with a low C number or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or low C number polyols, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Glycerm, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water can be another constituent

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C Atoms such esterols can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl mypstat, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isonony sononanoate, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyluryl, 2-ethylhexyluryl -Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate s owie synthetic see, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. jojobaol

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycides, in particular the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycendes can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, Almond oil, palmol, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodanol, isotridecyhsononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _{12 15} -alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid tπglyceride, dicaprylyl ether

Mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. ₁₅ alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ . ₁₅ -alkyl benzoate and Isotridecyhsononanoat and mixtures of C _12- ι ₅ -alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexyhsostearat and Isotndecylisononanoat

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffinol, squalane and squalene can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention

Advantageously, the oil phase can also have a content of cyclic or linear Si oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicon oils

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous To use the sense of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotπsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotπdecyhsononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyhsostearate are also particularly advantageous

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Glycerm, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- or -monoethylether and analogous products, furthermore low C-number alcohols, eg ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, Glycerm and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates , Polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, individually or in combination

Gels used in accordance with the invention usually contain alcohols of low C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerm and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener which, in the case of ohg-alcoholic gels, preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, at water -alcoholic or alcoholic gels is preferably a polyacrylate

Solid sticks contain, for example, natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters

Common basic materials which are suitable for use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present invention are liquid oils (for example paraffinols, castor oil, isopropyl myπstat), semi-solid components (for example petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (for example beeswax, Ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or Ozokeπt) as well as high-melting waxes (e.g. Carnauba wax, Candehllaw wax)

As a propellant for cosmetic and / or dermatological sprayable from aerosol containers Logical preparations for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would fundamentally be suitable for realizing the present invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with, in particular fluorocarbons and, because of their harmful effects on the environment or other accompanying circumstances Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations within the meaning of the present invention can also be present as gels which, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and solvents usually used for this, preferably water, or organic thickeners, e.g. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, nathumalginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, eg. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the embodiment of the present invention. The information always refers to% by weight, unless other information is given.

1. Examples OΛ / V creams

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4. Example (gel cream):

Mass content (%)

Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylates 0.40

Crosspolymer

Carbomer 0.20

Xanthan gum 0.10

Cetearyl alcohol 3.00

C 12-15 alkyl benzoates 4.00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 3.00

Cyclometicone 5.00

Dimeticone 1.00

Glycine Soybean Extract (Isoflavonoids) 0.20

Glycerin 3.00

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.0 pH set to 6.0

Example (W / O cream)

Lameform TGI 3.50

Glycerin 3.00

Dehymuls PGPH 3.50

Glycine soybean germ extract (isoflavonoids) 0.50

Preservatives q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Magnesium sulfate 0.6

Isopropyl stearate 2.0

Caprylyl ether 8.0

Cetearyl isononanoate 6.0

Water, demin. ad 100.0 Example (W / O / W cream):

Mass content (%)

Glyceryl stearate 3.00

PEG-100 stearate 0.75 behenyl alcohol 2.00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.0

Octyldodecanol 5.00

C12-15 alkyl benzoates 3.00

Glycine soybean germ extract (isoflavonoids) 1.00 magnesium sulfate (MgS0 ₄ ) 0.80

EDTA 0.10

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water demineralized from 100.0 pH set to 6.0

Claims

claims:

1. Use of one or more isoflavones and their derivatives for the preparation of preparations for reducing the production of sebum.

2. Use according to claim 1 for preventing the formation and removal of comedones and / or for the adjustment of a normal sebum homeostasis.

3. Use according to claim 1 for the prevention or elimination of seborrheic phenomena, in particular for the prophylaxis and treatment of greasy

Hair, but also for dandruff.

4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the or the isoflavones are selected from the group:

where A, B, C, Ri, R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ , R and R _{8 may represent the} following substituents: H, OH, OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₂ H ₅ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₃ H ₇ ) ₂ , OCH (CH ₃ ) (C ₂ H ₅ ), C, - C ₁₀ alkyl, 0-glucopyranosyl, mono-, di-, oligosaccharides, amino acids, di- and oligopeptides, acetyl , Malonyl and OR ₆ (with R ₆ = d - C ₁₀ alkyl).

Preferred among these are genistein, genistin, daidzein, daidzin, glycetein, glycetin, biochanin A, formononetin and ipriflavon as well as derivatives (see page 7-8)

5. Cosmetic method for the prophylaxis against and treatment of impure skin or seborrheic phenomena, in particular oily hair and / or dandruff, characterized in that the or the isoflavones in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier to be brought into contact with the area affected by increased sebum production.

6. Use according to claim 1 or method according to claim 5, characterized in that the or the isoflavones are used, a content of 0.0005 -

50.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-20.0% by weight, correspondingly, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Use according to claim 1 or method according to claim 5, characterized in that the or the isoflavones are used, a content of 0.02 -

10.0% by weight, preferably 0.02-5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously 0.1-3.0% by weight, correspondingly, in each case based on the total weight of the composition (see Gorbach! !)

8. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing one or more substances selected from the group, where A, B, C, R ^ R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₄ , R ₅ , R and R _{8 can represent the} following substituents: H , OH, OCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₂ H ₅ ) ₂ , OCH (C ₃ H ₇ ) ₂ , OCH (CH ₃ ) (C ₂ H ₅ ), d - C ₁₀ alkyl, O-glucopyranosyl, Mono-, di-, oligosaccharides, amino acids, di- and oligopeptides, acetyl, malonyl and OR ₆ (with R ₆ = d

- Cio alkyl).

Of these, genistein, genistin, daidzein, daidzin, glycetein, glycetin, biochanin A, formononetin and ipriflavon are preferred.

9. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the or the isoflavones are used, a content of 0.0005 - 50.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 - 20.0 wt .-%, accordingly, based on the total weight of the composition

10. Preparations according to claim 8, characterized in that the or the soflavones are used, a content of 0.02-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.02-5.0% by weight, particularly advantageously 0.1 - 3.0 wt .-%, correspondingly, each based on the total weight of the composition.