DE102004006829A1 - Cosmetic composition for e.g. preventing or treating acne or sebum production contains actives combination of isoflavones and antiperspirants - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition contains an actives combination of isoflavones and antiperspirants.

Description

The The present invention relates to the use of topical preparations for the removal of sebum from the skin, especially for elimination and clarification of comedones, to prevent comedone formation, for prophylaxis and treatment of mild forms of acne as well as for prophylaxis and fight the seborrhea.

Sebaceous glands overproduce and the possible ones resulting skin disorders like talgretention, formation of comedones in the area of the sebaceous gland, so in the face (especially forehead, nose and chin) and on the upper back and subsequently the various forms of acne are a common one Skin problem that has not been solved to a satisfactory extent is.

tallow is the secretion of the sebaceous gland. sebaceous glands are bulges of the follicular epithelium and thus components of the Follicles, with which they form a functional unit. you are holocrine glands, that means the whole glandular cell is for the most part converted into the secretion tallow. The cells of the sebaceous gland, those of down below all the time be renewed, fatigue and disintegrate, and the so-formed sebum gets through the follicular outlets emptied onto the skin surface.

The sebum is according to G. Leonardy (J.Ft. Jellinek cosmetology, purpose and structure of cosmetic preparations, Dr. Alfred Hüthig-Verlag, Heidelberg - Mainz - Basel, third completely revised and substantially expanded edition 1976, pages 26 to 29) Mono-, di- and triglycerides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ ), waxes (C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ ), wax esters (C ₂₈ -C ₃₈ ), normal saturated fatty acids (C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ ), branched-chain saturated fatty acids (C ₁₁ -C ₁₈ ) -C ₁₈ ), multi-branched-chain saturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ -C ₁₈ ), monounsaturated fatty acids (C ₁₁ -C ₁₈ ), polyunsaturated fatty acids (C ₁₃ , C ₁₅ -C ₁₇ ), sterols (cholesterol, 7-dehydrocholesterol, 7-hydroxycholesterol), branched and unbranched hydrocarbons (C ₃₀ -C ₄₀ ), squalene and phospholipids.

Together with the watery Forming secretions of eccrine sweat glands the lipids of the sebaceous gland so-called hydro-lipid film of the skin. This surface film is an emulsion containing a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion can be. It has the function to keep the skin surface supple and to regulate the water content of the deeper skin layers. at good hydration of the sebum, the water content is at least 10 to 20 wt .-% and the sebum is hydrophilic. Is the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surface film no longer given and the water content decreases, it changes the sebum and becomes hydrophobic. The sebum flow from sebaceous gland and follicle is hampered. There is a stagnation of the skin saliva in the follicular estuaries, which can subsequently lead to comedones and inflammation of the follicles.

The change of the skin tallow and the initiation of the comedone formation can be different Have causes. For example: external influences, such as wrong cleaning habits and wrong care, comedogenic substances in cosmetics, weather conditions, alkaline soaps, scented detergents. An increased sebaceous secretion And the training of comedones can also be genetic Factors and hormonal influences develop. Again, you can Comedones, inflammations, Pre-acne and acne with its after-effects can be the result.

The frequency the skin damage through a disturbed sebaceous gland function and diseases of the sebaceous glands increase more and more, and the return / avoidance The formation of comedones is thus an urgent concern. But previous attempts, the comedone formation as a causal Solve a problem, have led to unsatisfactory results.

Next manual removal of comedones by expressions numerous cleaning methods are known, with which attempts are made To remove Comedonen and to prevent the Come donenbildung lasting. These include special soaps, skin peeling Compositions and the like. Softening and astringent agents also apply. About that addition, it is attempted, by addition of drying, keratolytic, Antiseborrheic and antibacterial agents in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations reduce the tendency to acne without that Stop irritation of the skin or dehydration of the skin.

However, skin cleansing degreases the skin and removes moisture. In addition, soaps have the disadvantage that the water-insoluble calcium and magnesium salts of the higher fatty acids on the skin which form when the soaps are used in hard water form slimy precipitates. This low In case of poor rinsability, the beats remain on the skin for longer, clog the follicular outlets and can lead to the development of comedones. For this reason, mainly syndets (ie surfactants without soap character) in the form of washing creams or washing lotions are used for skin cleansing. Although these syndets do not form lime soaps, treatment with highly surface active agents has a more degreasing and drying effect on the skin than soap. The more frequently soap and surfactant-containing products are applied to the skin, the more obvious are their adverse effects, namely defatting and dehydration of the skin due to destruction of the hydro-lipid film in the foreground. Almost always, the reduction of the comedones leads to a reduction in the water content in the upper layers of the skin and to a solid calculus formation in the sebaceous glands, which in turn can induce inflammation. The lowering of the moisture content of the skin is counterproductive for a caring removal of the comedones.

• 1. Einfache Seborrhöe Leichte Fälle, fettig nach 8 Tagen.
• 2. Ölige Seborrhöe Bereits nach 2–3 Tagen fettig.
• 3. Irreversible Form nicht mehr umkehrbar. Die Seborrhöe, bei der das Haar bereits nach einem Tag wie in Fett gebadet aussieht.

Seborrhoea is an increased function of the sebaceous glands by predisposition. Both scalp and facial skin appear greasy. The composition of seborrhoeic sebum is altered compared to normal sebum. There are three stages of seborrhea development:

• 1. Simple seborrhea Mild cases, greasy after 8 days.
• 2. Oily seborrhea After only 2-3 days greasy.
• 3. Irreversible form no longer reversible. The seborrhea, in which the hair looks like already bathed in fat after a day.

Excessive secretion the sebaceous glands can be triggered inter alia by androgenetic disorders and has an aesthetic Disadvantage on the overall picture of the hair. This disorder can also be the cause for occurring To be hair loss. precursor is the seborrhoeic state of the scalp. vegetative disorders as well as improper care can the appearance of the skin and the condition of the hair still worsen. Also in seborrhea can the hair itself through disorders be dry in the keratin structure. Dry, damaged hair will often caused by external stress such as As sun or chemical treatments. Too hot blow or Improper care of damaged hair can lead to damage.

The Reasons for greasy hair is in the body of man and are hormonal. Each hair has one own sebaceous gland, which produces fat (sebum, sebum). Sebum production is hormonally controlled, and depending on the hormone sensitivity of the sebaceous gland it can become over or over Underproduction come. The sebum itself has the function of the scalp to keep it supple. It comes from the sebaceous gland on the scalp and only later the hairline. There he is usually taken up by the hair shaft and stays invisible. In a sebum overproduction is the hair shaft no longer able to accommodate this. He is called fat film visible on the hair. The result is stringy, greasy shiny Hair.

Thereby that the sebaceous glands depending on the hormone balance is, can be Do not basically solve the problem of greasy hair because the sebaceous glands produce steadily fat. Consistent care and high-quality care series are Still the best way to fight greasy hair.

greasy Hair is very annoying Effects. The hair will be back shortly after washing straggly and the hairstyle holds Not.

opposite to popular Opinion, it's just a rumor that by too frequent Washing the hair gets greasy even faster. Mild shampoos against greasy hair make sure that excessive fat Will get removed. Hair and scalp will be with enough moisture supplied and equal the overproduction the sebaceous glands out.

greasy Hair and dandruff belong to it the most common Hair problems. These abnormalities are due to a disorder of sebaceous gland activity due. at an overfunction the sebaceous glands Let's talk about a seborrhoea. There are two different forms: the oily one Form (seborrhea oleosa) and the dry form (seborrhoea sicca).

Seborrhoea oleosa:

Here is an overfunction the sebaceous glands before, at the sebaceous glands too much and oily Generate sebum. The skin therefore shows a greasy shine, and The hair is already 2 to 3 days after the wash back to the tips greasy and stringy.

The Seborrhoea sicca:

she is also on an over-function the sebaceous glands attributed, but the sebum is drier, it has a firmer texture. With the shaggy the epidermis makes him big, slightly friable tallow scales. The scalp shows a waxy Shine, the hair only greases at the neck, the lengths and especially the tips are dry and even brittle.

to Treatment of seborrhea belongs first times the regular and thorough shampooing with special shampoos that can be done as often as necessary. The laundry should be associated with a massage in the connective tissue because of it you sebaceous glands stronger be emptied, which delays the re-greasing.

Of the present invention is based on the object, a preparation to disposal to provide the disadvantages of the known and previously used Not having means that tallow-releasing, regulating and nourishing acts to remove already existing comedones without irritation, which effectively prevents the degreasing and dehydration of the skin Comedone formation and the emergence of acne prevents cosmetics as well as existing acne improves and the skin equivalent cultivates.

These Task is achieved by the preparations containing active ingredient combinations of isoflavones and one or more antiperspirant active agents or use of active ingredient combinations of isoflavones and antiperspirant active ingredients to reduce the production of sebum.

Surprisingly According to the invention, the comedogenic Effect of the raw materials used in the preparation canceled and thus the formation of comedones and, accordingly, the genesis prevented by acne.

It has also been found that the invention used Drug combinations the formation of seborrheic phenomena, especially greasy hair, but also dandruff, prevent as well already existing seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy Hair, but also dandruff, to eliminate.

isoflavones are among the flavonoids, occasionally also referred to as isoflavonoids group of mostly yellowish colored Plant dyes derived from isoflavone. The unsubstituted Body, the actual isoflavone (3-phenylchromone, 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran-4-one) occurs in clover species.

Some More well-known isoflavones are daidzein (4 ', 7-dihydroxy-isoflavone), as 7-O-glucoside Daidzin in soya flour; Genistein (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-isoflavone) from soybeans and red clover; Prunetin (4 ', 5-dihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) from the bark of plum trees; Biochanin A (5,7-dihydroxy-4'-methoxy-isoflavone) from chickpeas, red clover and other types of clover; Orobol (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxy isoflavone); Santal (3 ', 4', 5-trihydroxy-7-methoxy-isoflavone) sandalwood, redwood and other woods; Pratensein (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyisoflavone) from fresh red or meadow clover. Some of these in clover and Legumes such as alfalfa-occurring isoflavones show estrogenic activity on grazing animals and can in certain circumstances to reproductive disorders lead with these.

The following are substitution schemes of some naturally occurring isoflavones:

When used according to the invention Isoflavones are preferably the isoflavones listed in the table above into consideration.

From in turn, the genistein is preferred.

Genistein, 5,7-dihydroxy-3- (4-hydroxyphenyl) -4H-1-benzopyran-4-one, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyisoflavone, also called differenol A, prunetol and sophoricol. has the following structure:

genistein is a secondary metabolite from plants (legumes, Papilionoiden, Rosaceae), however, became also in cultures of microorganisms (Actinomycetes, Aspergillus, Mycobacteria). There were weak estrogenic and antibacterial Effects described.

According to the invention the isoflavones are preferred in cosmetic or dermatological compositions used in a content of 0.0005-50.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01-20.0 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition is preferred are. Advantageously, the compositions contain 0.02-10.0% by weight, more preferably 0.02-5.0 Wt .-% of the invention used Active ingredients, most preferably 0.5-3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Soybean germ extracts, including daidzin, glycitin, genistin, daidzein, glycitein, Genistein and saponins are included, for example, commercially available at the company L.M Cosmetics, Thiais, France under the Designation Isoflavones 150 (hereinafter also referred to as Isoflavone 150 designated). This mixture contains (subject to occurring natural fluctuations), for example 39.01 ppm daidzin, 1.53 ppm malonyldaidzin, 20.56 ppm acetyldaidzin, 22.47 ppm glycitin, 1.74 ppm malonylglycitin, 12.69 ppm acetylglycitin, Genistin, 1.43 ppm daidzein, 9.82 ppm glycitein, 9.82 ppm genistin, 0.1 ppm malonylgenistin, 5.7 ppm acetylgenistin, 0.33 ppm genistein.

When used according to the invention Antiperspirant active ingredients come z. As aluminum chlorohydrates in question. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and accumulate on evaporation of aqueous aluminum chloride solutions. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used for the production of antiperspirant and deodorizing preparations and is likely to act on the partial closure of the Sweat glands through Protein- and / or polysaccharide precipitation. In addition to the chlorohydrates can also Aluminiumhydroxyactate and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts be used.

According to the invention the antiperspirant active ingredients are preferred in cosmetic or dermatological Compositions used in a content of 0.0005-50.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01-20.0% by weight, are preferred based on the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the compositions contain 0.02-10.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.02-5.0 Wt .-% of the invention used Active ingredients, most preferably 0.5-3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention therefore also a method for controlling blemished skin, acne, or seborrheic phenomena, in particular greasy hair and / or dandruff, characterized in that the active ingredient combinations used in this invention in a suitable cosmetic or dermatological carrier, with the area affected by increased sebum production in Contact who brought the.

Of the The prior art did not provide the slightest indication of the use according to the invention as antiseborrheic effect.

A further preferred embodiment The present invention is therefore applicable to dandruff Formulations, for example anti-dandruff shampoos.

Preferably are in the active compound combinations according to the invention the isoflavone (s) and the antiperspirant (s) in circumstances from 50: 1 to 1:50, preferably from 10: 1 to 1:10, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 before.

The Combination of single or multiple substances selected from the group of isoflavones with one or more substances, chosen from the group of antiperspirant active ingredients leads in all respects to more synergistic reinforcement the effect of the individual substances.

It can be advantageous according to the invention be, the preparations according to the invention Add further anti-sebum agents, for example selected from the group of distarch phosphate, Cyclodextrin, sodium corn starch octyl succinate, Silica dimethyl silylate, hydroxypropyl distarch phosphates, tapioca dextrin, Aluminum starch Octylensuccinat, Acrylate copolymer, Magnesium carbonate, corn starch, Aluminum starch Octylensuccinate, Kaolin, nylon (e.g., nylon 6/12), bentonite, sodium silicoaluminate, Boron nitride, silica, mica + titanium dioxide.

The Combination of single or multiple substances selected from the above group, with the active ingredient combinations used in the invention leads to additional synergistic reinforcement the effect of the individual substances and thus has independent invention height.

The used according to the invention Active ingredients can be easily used in common cosmetic or dermatological Incorporating formulations, advantageous in pump sprays, aerosol sprays, Creams, ointments, Tinctures, lotions and the like.

It is possible, too and, where appropriate, advantageous, the inventively used To combine drugs with other agents, for example with other antimicrobial, antimycotic or antiviral effective Substances.

It is advantageous to buffer the compositions of the invention. A pH range of 3.5-7.5 is advantageous. Is particularly favorable to choose the pH in a range of 4.0-6.5.

The cosmetic according to the invention and / or dermatological formulations may be composed as usual and for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in terms of nourishing cosmetics. she can but also used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics become.

to Application are the cosmetic and / or dermatological according to the invention Formulations in the for Cosmetics and dermatological usual Applied to the skin and / or hair in sufficient quantity.

According to the invention, preparations, which contain the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants be used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine , Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and salts thereof, Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very small amounts tolerated doses (eg, pmol to μmol / kg), further (Me tall) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EG-TA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg .gamma.-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, alaninediacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E) acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and its alone derivatives (such as ZnO, ZnSO ₄ Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) u nd the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The Prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the invention used Active ingredient or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological Preparations with an effective content of inventively used Active ingredient is in the usual Manner, in such a way that the used according to the invention Active substance or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient used in the invention the affected skin is applied.

Advantageous may be used according to the invention Active ingredient to be incorporated into usual cosmetic and dermatological Preparations which may be in various forms. So can they e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid Pen or even an aerosol pose.

Inventive emulsions in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, of a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty bodies, and water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

It is possible, too and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention used Active substance in aqueous systems or to add surfactant preparations for cleansing the skin and hair.

It is natural to the expert known to be demanding Cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example, bodying agents, fillers, Perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, Alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances, etc.

mutatis Mutandis are subject to appropriate formulation requirements medical preparations.

medical containing topical compositions within the meaning of the present invention usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Drug Act).

It is also advantageous, the inventively used Add active ingredient as an additive to preparations already other agents for contain other purposes.

It is for example advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, a content of UV protection substances to use.

Advantageous can therefore preparations according to the invention Substances that contain UV radiation in the Absorb UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher,
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopro pylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isoproylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Salze, z.B. Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze,
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze.

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts,
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts.

The List of said UVB filters, the use according to the invention can find should of course not limiting.

It may also be advantageous in formulations of the invention UVA filters to use, usually contained in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are. Such filter substances are preferably to derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular to 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Even preparations containing these combinations are the subject the invention. It can the same amounts of UVA filter substances which are used for UVB filter substances were called.

cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations as defined in the present invention Invention can also contain inorganic pigments, commonly used in cosmetics To protect the skin from UV rays are used. It acts oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, Manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications, where the oxides are the active agents. Especially preferred are pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can be the for the quantities mentioned above.

The used according to the invention Cosmetic and dermatological preparations can be cosmetic Active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as they usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidant Preservatives, Bactericides, Perfumes, Preventive substances of foaming, Dyes, pigments, the coloring Have thickening agents, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

• – Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, but preferably castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with lower C-number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products.

Especially Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. at alcoholic solvents Water can be another ingredient.

The oil phase of Emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then chosen advantageous are from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, Erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Further can the oil phase chosen favorably are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present Use invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

From The hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, squalane and squalene advantageous to be used in the sense of the present invention.

Advantageous can the oil phase also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or Completely from such oils although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Advantageous Cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) is used as a silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use for example, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Especially also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

If appropriate, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or -monoethyl ether and analogous products, also low C-number alcohols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can be advantageously selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, in each case individually or in combination.

Used according to the invention Gels usually contain Low C-number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, Glycerol and water or an above-mentioned oil in the presence a thickening agent, preferably in oily-alcoholic gels Silica or an aluminum silicate, in aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic Gels is preferably a polyacrylate.

firm Pins contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.

Usual basic materials, which for the use as cosmetic sticks in the sense of the present Are suitable, liquid oils (e.g. Paraffin oils, castor oil, Isopropyl myristate), semi-solid ingredients (e.g., petrolatum, lanolin), solid components (e.g., beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite) and high melting waxes (e.g., carnauba wax, candelilla)

When Propellant for from aerosol containers sprayable Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations in the sense of present invention are the usual known volatile, liquefied propellant, For example, hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable, which can be used alone or mixed with each other. Also Compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the expert knows that it in itself non-toxic propellant gases, which in principle for the realization of the present Invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable but nevertheless because of questionable effect on the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be waived, especially fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

cosmetic Preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also as gels, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and usually used solvents, preferably water, still organic thickening agents, e.g. gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methylcellulose, Hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose or inorganic thickening agents, z. As aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is present in the gel e.g. in a crowd between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, contain.

The following examples are the embodiments of the present Illustrate inventions. The information always refers to weight%, unless otherwise stated.

The by liquid mixing of the respective components obtained liquid phase is mixed with a propane-butane mixture (2: 7) in the ratio 17:83 in aerosol containers bottled.

Claims (9)

Cosmetic preparations containing active ingredient combinations from isoflavones and one or more antiperspirant active ingredients. Use of active ingredient combinations of isoflavones and one or more antiperspirant active ingredients for reduction the production of sebum. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to Claim 2 for preventing the formation of comedones and / or acne. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to Claim 2 for the prevention or elimination of seborrheic Appearances, especially greasy hair, but also dandruff. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to Claim 2, characterized in that as isoflavone, the genistein chosen becomes. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to Claim 2, characterized in that as antiperspirant active the aluminum chlorohydrate is chosen becomes. Preparations according to claim 1 or use according to Claim 2, characterized in that the one or more isoflavones used be, a content of 0.0005-50,0 Wt .-%, in particular 0.01-20.0 wt .-%, accordingly, based on the total weight of the composition Use according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the or the isoflavones are used, a content of 0.02-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.02-5.0 Wt .-%, particularly advantageously 0.05-1.0 wt .-%, accordingly, each based on the total weight of the composition. Use according to claim 1 or use according to claim 2, characterized in that the preparations 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, very particularly 0.005 to 0.15% by weight of one or more antiperspirant active ingredients contained, based on the total weight of the preparation.