EP1370216A2 - Preparations auto-moussantes ou de type mousse contenant des gelifiants inorganiques - Google Patents

Preparations auto-moussantes ou de type mousse contenant des gelifiants inorganiques

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Publication number
EP1370216A2
EP1370216A2 EP02730011A EP02730011A EP1370216A2 EP 1370216 A2 EP1370216 A2 EP 1370216A2 EP 02730011 A EP02730011 A EP 02730011A EP 02730011 A EP02730011 A EP 02730011A EP 1370216 A2 EP1370216 A2 EP 1370216A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
acid
emulsifier
preparation
foam
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02730011A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Andreas Bleckmann
Rainer Kröpke
Heidi Riedel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1370216A2 publication Critical patent/EP1370216A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/22—Peroxides; Oxygen; Ozone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin-care cosmetic and dermatological preparations.
  • Foams or foam-like preparations belong to the disperse systems.
  • Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another.
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • the liquids are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability.
  • Foams are structures made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells, which are delimited by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or solid cell bridges.
  • the cell bridges connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent framework.
  • the foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) stretch between the cell bars. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow back into the cell webs at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained.
  • Foams are also thermodynamically unstable, since surface energy can be obtained by reducing the surface. The stability and therefore the existence of a foam depends on the extent to which it can prevent its self-destruction.
  • Cosmetic foams are usually dispersed systems composed of liquids and gases, the liquid being the dispersant and the gas the dispersed substance represent. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Because of their large inner surface, such surfactant foams have a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used in particular in the areas of cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care.
  • surfactants foam stabilizers
  • foam gas is blown into suitable liquids, or the foam is formed by vigorous beating, shaking, spraying or stirring the liquid in the gas atmosphere in question, provided that the liquids contain suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances (so-called foam formers), which, in addition to interfacial activity, also have a certain ability to form films.
  • suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances so-called foam formers
  • Cosmetic foams have the advantage over other cosmetic preparations in that they allow a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin.
  • cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved by using special surfactants, which moreover are often not very kind to the skin.
  • Post-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are first applied to the skin in fluid form from an aerosol container and, after a short delay, develop the actual foam there, for example a shaving foam, under the influence of the post-foaming agent contained. Post-foaming preparations are often in special embodiments, such as post-foaming shaving gels or the like.
  • Post-foaming shaving gels or the like are often in special embodiments, such as post-foaming shaving gels or the like.
  • the prior art does not know any cosmetic or dermatological preparations which could be foamed during manufacture and which nevertheless have a sufficiently high stability to be packaged, stored and put on the market in the customary manner.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which can serve to strengthen the permeability barrier, reduce the transepideral water loss and increase the relative skin moisture.
  • the CO 2 is dissolved in water, for example, with which the skin is then rinsed.
  • the prior art has hitherto known no cosmetic or dermatological foundations into which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in a sufficient, ie effective, concentration.
  • Another object of the present invention was therefore to find cosmetic or dermatological bases in which effective amounts of gaseous active ingredients can be incorporated.
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or unneutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, II. Up to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation - a lipid phase, IM.
  • foam-like cosmetic emulsions which are distinguished by a high air intake cannot be formulated or produced technically without propellant gas.
  • the invention supports the entry of the gases and achieves a stabilizing and clearly after-foaming effect over a longer storage period even at higher temperatures (e.g. 40 ° C) without the use of post-foaming agents such as e.g. contained by propellants.
  • self-foaming or “foam-like” is to be understood to mean that the gas bubbles (as desired) are present in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the formulations not necessarily having the appearance of a foam macroscopically
  • Self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids.
  • the foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope.
  • self-foaming and / or foam-like preparations according to the invention especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the large increase in volume of the system.
  • the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the foam-like preparations according to the invention are extremely stable - even with an unusually high gas volume. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses.
  • the preparations according to the invention show very good sensory properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by an above-average skin care.
  • the invention further relates to the use of self-foaming and / or foam-like cosmetic or dermatological preparations, which I. an emulsifier system, which
  • At least one emulsifier A chosen from the group of completely neutralized, partially neutralized or unneutralized branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having a chain length of 10 to 40 Koh ⁇ lenstoffatomen, B. at least one emulsifier B , selected from the group of polyethoxylated
  • at least one coemulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms consists, and
  • lipid phase Up to 30% by weight of a lipid phase, based on the total weight of the preparation IV. 0.01-10% by weight of one or more gel formers selected from the group of inorganic thickeners, as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for gaseous ones agents.
  • the emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of the fatty acids which are wholly or partly with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanoiamine) are neutralized.
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanoiamine
  • stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isoleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate.
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: butyl octanol, butyl decanol, hexyl octanol, hexyl decanol, octyl decanol, behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 5 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C 16 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 can represent up to 3.
  • a weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 8 to 13% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the gas phase of the preparations contains carbon dioxide or consists entirely of carbon dioxide. It is particularly advantageous if carbon dioxide represents one or the active ingredient in the preparations according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention develop into fine-bubble foams already during their production - for example during stirring or during homogenization.
  • fine-bubble, rich foams of outstanding cosmetic elegance are available.
  • preparations which are particularly well tolerated by the skin are available according to the invention, and valuable ingredients can be distributed particularly well on the skin.
  • formulations according to the present invention contain further emulsifiers.
  • Those emulsifiers which are suitable for producing W / O emulsions are preferably to be used, these being able to be present both individually and in any combination with one another.
  • the other emulsifier (s) are advantageously selected from the group comprising the following compounds:
  • the further emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of the hydrophilic emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to mono-, di-, trifatty acid esters of sorbitol.
  • the total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the list of the other emulsifiers mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • Particularly advantageous self-foaming and / or foam-like preparations in the sense of the present invention are free of mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • Preparations according to the invention which contain no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl alcoholate and / or glyceryl laurate are particularly preferred.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of nonpolar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m.
  • Particularly advantageous non-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil and other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 30% by weight, preferably between 2.5 and 30% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous, if not mandatory, if the lipid phase contains up to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the lipid phase, of polar lipids (with a polarity ⁇ 20 mN / m) and / or medium-polar lipids (with a Polarity of 20 to 30 mN / m) contains.
  • Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.
  • native lipids such as, for. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like and those listed below.
  • medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • the inorganic thickener (s) can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic phyllosilicates.
  • layered silicates which are also known as phyllosilicates, which ⁇ ser application silicates and aluminosilicates are to be understood in the context in which the silicate or aluminum minatanneen three Si-O or Al-O bonds are linked to each other and a corrugated Form sheet or layer structure.
  • the fourth Si-O or Al-O valence is saturated by cations.
  • the layer structure is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds.
  • the stoichiometry of the leaf silicates is (Si 2 O 5 2 " ) for pure silicate structures and (Al m Si 2 m O 5 ( 2 + m ) " ) for aluminosilicates.
  • m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.
  • the charge balance is preferably balanced by H + , alkali or alkaline earth metal ions.
  • Aluminum as a counter ion is also known and advantageous. In contrast to aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminum silicates. "Aluminum aluminosilicates" in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network and as a counter ion are also known and may be advantageous for the present invention.
  • layered silicates are:
  • Montmorillonite is the main mineral of the naturally occurring bentonites.
  • Very advantageous inorganic gel formers in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectohts and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearonconium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum ® types) and sodium-magnesium silicates (Laponite® types)
  • montmorillonites bentonites, hectohts and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearonconium hectorites
  • magnesium-aluminum silicates Veegum ® types
  • sodium-magnesium silicates Liaponite® types
  • Montmorillonites are clay minerals belonging to the dioctahedral smectites and are masses that swell in water but do not become plastic.
  • the layer packs in the three-layer structure of montmorillonite can by reversible storage of water (in 2-7 times the amount) u.
  • Substances such as As alcohols, glycols, pyridine, ⁇ -picoline, ammonium compounds, hydroxy aluminosilicate ions, etc. swell.
  • Synthetic magnesium silicates or bentonites which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are sold, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel®.
  • An aluminum silicate which is advantageous in the sense of the present invention is sold, for example, by R. T. Vanderbilt Comp., Inc., under the trade name Veegum®.
  • the various Veegum® types, all of which are advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions
  • Bentone® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmorillonite. Bentones swell in organic media and make them swell. The gels are stable in dilute acids and alkalis, but they lose some of their gelling properties if they are in contact with strong acids and alkalis for a long time. Due to their organophilic character, the bentones are difficult to wet with water.
  • Bentone® types are sold, for example, by Kronos Titan: Bentone® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone® 34 (dimethyldioctylammonium bentonite), which is manufactured according to US Pat. No.
  • Bentone® 38 an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream-colored to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is offered in fine suspension in mineral oil (SUS-71) ( 10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86.7% isopropyl myristate, 3.3% wetting agent) ), Bentone® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is absorbed in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is intended in paste form for further processing, in particular for the production of cosmetic
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual.
  • Preparations for skin care are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention: they can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, for treating the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists of after-sun products.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also represent “cleansing foams”, which are used, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - possibly also for impure skin
  • cleaning foams can advantageously also be used as so-called “rinse-off" preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp are present, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam that is used for blow-drying the hair, a hairdressing and treatment foam.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or the other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those available under the trade names Koncyl-L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB from Lonza), parabens, Phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosin, L-camosin and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g
  • Aurothio- glucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, Palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ - Hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ⁇ -linolenic acid linoleic acid, oil acid
  • folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. As ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and their Derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g.
  • ZnO, ZnSO4 selenium and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene methionine) and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • the active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamins of the B and D series very cheap the vitamin Bi, the vitamin B 12 and vitamin D 1 ( but also bisabolol,
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are also advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gaflenic esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of Plant family Theaceae, especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • Their typical ingredients such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids are particularly advantageous.
  • Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- Dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.
  • Plant extracts containing catechins in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien- sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechol, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin , (-) - Epicatechi ⁇ gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones generally occur in a glycated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Zi to Z 7 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Z t to Z 6 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by means of hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly ⁇ Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl residues, in particular the rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • Up to Z 5 are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Gly ⁇ Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturated portions by hydrogen atoms
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl residues, in particular the rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • hexosyl residues for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl can also be used advantageously if appropriate
  • pentosyl residues for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl.
  • flavone glycoside (s) from the group ⁇ -glucosyl rutin, ⁇ -glucosyl my ⁇ cetin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercitnn, ⁇ -glucosyhsoquercetin and ⁇ -glucosyl quercit ⁇ n
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred
  • nanngin (aurantiin, Nar ⁇ ngen ⁇ n-7-rhamnoglucosid), hespendin (3 ', 5J-tr ⁇ hydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rut ⁇ nos ⁇ d, Hespe ⁇ dosid, Hespe ret ⁇ n-7-O-rut ⁇ nos ⁇ d) rutin (3 , 3 ', 4', 5,7-Pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rut ⁇ nos ⁇ d, Quercet ⁇ n-3-rut ⁇ no- sid, Sopho ⁇ n, Birutan, Rutabion, Taurutm, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-D ⁇ hydroxy- 3 ', 4 ', 7-tr ⁇ s (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3', 4 '
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • Coenzyme Q10 which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-carnitine which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • the list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants
  • exogenous factors e.g. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:
  • formulations according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or considerably increase the effect of known anti-wrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, formulations within the meaning of the present invention are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological tological skin changes, such as z. B. occur during skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the present invention therefore relates to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene - Glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and also their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are approved for food Dyes are identical.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colounsts, Bradford, England, 1971
  • Chlorophyll a and b Copper compounds of chlorophyll and 75810 green
  • Chromium oxide containing 77289 green
  • Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is z.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • Silver-white pearlescent pigments TiO 2 40 - 60 nm silver interference pigments TiO 2 : ⁇ 6u ⁇ - 8 ⁇ " n ⁇ T “" , yellow for 2 ⁇ 80 - 10 ⁇ nm "" red ' for ⁇ 2 for ⁇ 00 - ⁇ 4 ⁇ nm blue
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timi ron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • Timi ron the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timi ron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • the list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection for the preparations. are themselves against spoilage.
  • cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen.
  • the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or maintained be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
  • z. B titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are TiO 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also referred to as simethicone.
  • the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water.
  • aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2.
  • Titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water.
  • An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • the total amount of the filter substances for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane dehvate, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ® 1789 and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid
  • salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid- bis-sodium salt
  • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or ethanol ammonium salt
  • benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Tria - Zin), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g.
  • UV filter substances which the structural motif are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula
  • R represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC-alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, i a branched or unbranched C cis-alkyl radical, a C 5 -d 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, a Ammonium group or a group of formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C r C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC 4 alkyl groups
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n is a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched CC ⁇ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched CrC ⁇ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1 1 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • R ⁇ , R 2 and A represent a wide variety of organic radicals.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl ) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemical GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula is marked.
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; ⁇ 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • a further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid with stirring in the water phase Combination of the fat phase heated to 75 ° C with the water phase heated to 70 ° C. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring with gassing with nitrogen at 0.7 bar and cooling. Addition of additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersion machine (rotor-stator principle) at 27 ° C.
  • Emulsion II% by weight% by volume Emulsion II% by weight% by volume
  • Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid with stirring in the water phase Combination of the fat phase heated to 80 ° C with the water phase heated to 72 ° C. Homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 65 ° C. 45 min stirring with gassing with carbon dioxide at 1.2 bar and cooling. Add the additives at 30 ° C (perfume). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 30 ° C.
  • Vitamin E acetate 1, 00
  • Vitamin E acetate 2.00
  • Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent (hectorite) and swelling of the hydrocolloids while stirring in the water phase Predispersion of quaternium 18 hectorite in the hot fat phase.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques auto-moussantes et/ou de type mousse qui contiennent I) un système émulsifiant comprenant A) au moins un émulsifiant A, choisi dans le groupe des acides gras entièrement, partiellement ou non neutralisés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés, saturés et/ou insaturés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, B) au moins un émulsifiant B, choisi dans le groupe des esters d'acides gras polyéthoxylés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone et un degré d'éthoxylation compris entre 5 et 100, et C) au moins un coémulsifiant C, choisi dans le groupe des alcools gras saturés et/ou insaturés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone ; II) jusqu'à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation, d'une phase lipide ; III) 1 à 90 % en volume, par rapport au volume total de la préparation, d'au moins un gaz, choisi dans le groupe comprenant l'air, l'oxygène, l'azote, l'hélium, l'argon, l'oxyde nitreux (N2O) et le dioxyde de carbone (CO2) ; IV) 0,01 à 10 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs gélifiants choisis dans le groupe des épaississants inorganiques.
EP02730011A 2001-03-15 2002-03-14 Preparations auto-moussantes ou de type mousse contenant des gelifiants inorganiques Withdrawn EP1370216A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10113047A DE10113047A1 (de) 2001-03-15 2001-03-15 Selbstschäumende oder schaumförmige Zubereitungen mit anorganischen Gelbildnern
DE10113047 2001-03-15
PCT/EP2002/002851 WO2002074255A2 (fr) 2001-03-15 2002-03-14 Preparations auto-moussantes ou de type mousse contenant des gelifiants inorganiques

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US20040170574A1 (en) 2004-09-02
JP2004519497A (ja) 2004-07-02
WO2002074255A3 (fr) 2003-02-20
DE10113047A1 (de) 2002-09-26

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