EP1411884A2 - Preparations moussantes - Google Patents

Preparations moussantes

Info

Publication number
EP1411884A2
EP1411884A2 EP02764702A EP02764702A EP1411884A2 EP 1411884 A2 EP1411884 A2 EP 1411884A2 EP 02764702 A EP02764702 A EP 02764702A EP 02764702 A EP02764702 A EP 02764702A EP 1411884 A2 EP1411884 A2 EP 1411884A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
emulsifier
acid
carbon atoms
red
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02764702A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Heidi Riedel
Rainer Kröpke
Andreas Bleckmann
Ilka Oelrichs
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1411884A2 publication Critical patent/EP1411884A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin-care foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations.
  • Foams or show-like preparations belong to the disperse systems.
  • Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another.
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • the liquids are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability.
  • Foams are structures made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells, which are delimited by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or solid cell bridges.
  • the cell bars connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent framework.
  • the foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) stretch between the cell bars. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow back into the cell webs at the end of foam formation, an open-cell foam is obtained.
  • Foams like emulsions, are thermodynamically unstable, since surface energy can be obtained by reducing the surface area. The stability and therefore the existence of a foam depends on the extent to which it can prevent its self-destruction.
  • Cosmetic foams are generally dispersed systems composed of liquids and gases, the liquid being the dispersant and the gas being the dispersed substance. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Because of their large inner surface, such surfactant foams have a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used in particular in the areas of cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care.
  • surfactants foam stabilizers
  • foaming agents surfactants or other surfactants that in addition to interfacial activity, they also have a certain ability to form films.
  • Cosmetic foams have the advantage over other cosmetic preparations in that they allow a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin.
  • cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved by using special surfactants, which moreover are often not very kind to the skin.
  • Post-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are first applied to the skin in fluid form from an aerosol container and, after a short delay, develop the actual foam there, for example a shaving foam, under the influence of the post-foaming agent contained. Post-foaming preparations are often in special embodiments such as post-foaming shaving gels or the like.
  • An object of the present invention was to enrich the prior art and to provide cosmetic or dermatological foamable preparations which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • German Offenlegungsschrift DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which can serve to strengthen the permeability barrier, reduce the trans-epidermal water loss and increase the relative skin moisture.
  • the CO 2 is dissolved in water, for example, with which the skin is then rinsed.
  • the prior art has hitherto known no cosmetic or dermatological foundations into which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in a sufficient, ie effective, concentration.
  • Another object of the present invention was therefore to find cosmetic or dermatological bases in which effective amounts of gaseous active ingredients can be incorporated.
  • foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations which l. an emulsifier system consisting of
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
  • At least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and
  • foamable is to be understood to mean that the preparations according to the invention form foams when they are foamed, ie when gas is blown into them, for example, or the preparations are (violently) beaten in the gas atmosphere in question, In the foams produced in this way, the gas bubbles can (arbitrarily) be distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the foams not necessarily having the appearance of a foam macroscopically.
  • foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can by foaming z.
  • the foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope.
  • the foaming of the foamable preparations according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized by a large increase in volume of the system.
  • the preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was particularly surprising that the foams produced from the foamable preparations according to the invention are extremely stable - even with an unusually high gas volume. Accordingly, preparations in the sense of the present invention are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for product forms with a variety of uses.
  • the preparations according to the invention and the foams obtainable therefrom have very good sensory properties, such as, for example, the distributability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by an above-average skin care.
  • compositions according to the invention Fine-bubble, rich foams of outstanding cosmetic elegance can be obtained from compositions according to the invention. Furthermore, preparations which are particularly well tolerated by the skin are obtainable from compositions according to the invention, and valuable ingredients can be distributed particularly well on the skin.
  • the invention further relates to the use of foamable cosmetic or dermatological preparations which l. an emulsifier system consisting of
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • At least one emulsifier B selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 0 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and
  • At least one co-emulsifier C selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, and II.
  • an epidue phase which contains one or more lipids from the group of silicone oils and silicone waxes, as a cosmetic or dermatological basis for gaseous active ingredients.
  • the emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) ,
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine
  • stearic acid and stearates isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, 'PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Polye
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: butyioctanol, butyldecanol, hexyloctanol, hexyldecanol, octyldodecanol, behenyl alcohol (C 22 H S OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C 16 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol ! (C ⁇ 8 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax, which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C can represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3.
  • a weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of co-emulsifier C is advantageous for the range from 1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 5 to 10% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.
  • Aerosol containers according to the invention are spray devices with a filling of the liquid or slurry-like substances which are under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas or aerosol packs).
  • propellant compressed gas or aerosol packs
  • Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different types, which allow the contents to be removed as foam.
  • the pressure gas containers used are primarily cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, content ⁇ 1000 mL), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 220 mL) or splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 150 mL) in question, in the selection of compressive and breaking strength, corrosion resistance, easy fillability, possibly sterilizability etc., but also aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role.
  • the maximum permissible operating pressure of spray cans made of metal at 50 ° C is 12 bar and the maximum filling volume at this temperature is approx. 90% of the total volume.
  • lower values for the operating pressure apply, depending on the container size and the propellant (whether liquefied, compressed or dissolved gas).
  • Cans made of tinplate, aluminum and glass are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • metal cans can be painted inside (silver or gold painted), for which all commercially available interior protective paints are suitable.
  • Polyester, epoxyphenol and polyamideimide lacquers are preferred for the purposes of the present invention.
  • film laminations made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) inside the cans are advantageous, especially for cans made of tinplate.
  • the compressed gas containers are usually one or two, but usually three-part cylindrical, conical or other shape. If plastics are used as spray container material, they should be resistant to chemicals and sterilization temperatures, gas-tight, impact-resistant and stable against internal pressures above 12 bar. In principle, polyacetals and polyamides are suitable for spray container purposes.
  • the internal structure of the spray cans and the valve construction are dependent on the intended use and the physical nature of the content - e.g. B. whether as a two-phase or three-phase system - very rich variants and can be determined by a person skilled in the art by simply trying out without inventive step.
  • suitable embodiments reference is made to the "Aerosol Technology Manual for Aersosol Packaging" (Wolfgang Tauscher, Melcher Verlag GmbH Heidelberg / Kunststoff, 1996).
  • Valves advantageous according to the invention can be designed with or without a riser pipe.
  • the individual parts from which valves according to the invention are usually constructed preferably consist of the following materials:
  • tinplate bare, gold or clear lacquered, foil-laminated (PE, PP or PET) aluminum: bare, silver or gold lacquered, different lacquer variants, stoner mudge version
  • Sealing natural or synthetic elastomers or thermoplastic (sleeve gaskets, film-lined from PE or PP) inner and outer seals, e.g. B. from Perbunan, Buna, neoprene, butyl, CLB, LDPE, Viton, EPDM, chlorobutyl, bromobutyl and / or various compounds
  • Standard bores e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • different shaft diameters e.g. 0.25 to 0.70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • Spring metal, particularly preferably V2A, stainless steel; Plastic and also elastomer
  • VPH holes VPH holes, RPT holes or slotted for overhead applications.
  • B polyacetal, PA, PE, POM and the like
  • Advantageous spray heads in the sense of the present invention are, for example, foam heads for upright use (holding the can vertically) or foam heads for overhead use with one or more channels.
  • the usual "classic" volatile, liquefied propellants such as dimethyl ether (DME) and / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms (such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane) are suitable as blowing agents, which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another.
  • DME dimethyl ether
  • / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane
  • Compressed air and other pressurized gases such as air, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, helium, krypton, xenon, radon, argon, laughing gas (N 2 O) and carbon dioxide (CO 2 ) are also advantageous as propellants in the context of the present invention (both individually and in any mixtures with each other).
  • the volume fraction of propellant gas is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 30% by volume, based on the total volume of filling material and propellant gas (corresponding to a volume fraction of 70 to 99.9% by volume filling material) ,
  • a particularly preferred propellant in the sense of the present invention is carbon dioxide. Foams obtainable from preparations according to the invention which contain carbon dioxide as one or the active ingredient are particularly advantageous.
  • foams according to the invention are foamed using linear or branched-chain, halogenated or non-halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Very particularly advantageous foams can be obtained by foaming the preparations according to the invention with carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air and / or nitrogen.
  • formulations according to the present invention contain further emulsifiers.
  • Those emulsifiers which are suitable for producing W / O emulsions are preferably to be used, these being able to be present both individually and in any combination with one another.
  • the other emulsifier (s) are advantageously selected from the group comprising the following compounds:
  • Sorbitan stearate PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-5 Soyasterol, PEG-6 Sorbitan Beeswax, Glyceryl stearate SE, Methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sorbitan palmitate, PEG-22 / Dodecylko! Copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, sorbitan laurate, PEG-4 laurate, polysorbate 61, polysorbate 81, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, triceteareth-4-phosphate, triceteareth-4 phosphate and sodium C 14 .
  • the further emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of hydrophilic emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to mono-, di-, trifatty acid esters of sorbitan.
  • the total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Particularly advantageous self-foaming and / or foamable preparations in the sense of the present invention are free from mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • Preparations according to the invention which contain no glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl silanolate and / or glyceryl laurate are particularly preferred.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked like chains and / or networks and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated.
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for. B. are available under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which INCI also refers to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicones) and silicone waxes.
  • dimethylpolysiloxanes poly (dimethylsiloxane)
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclot
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • Cyclomethicones in particular Cyclomethicone D5 and / or Cyclomethicone D6, are particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 50% by weight, preferably between 1 and 40% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the foamable preparation. It may also be advantageous, although not essential, if the lipid phase contains up to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the lipid phase, of other lipids with one.
  • Advantageous further lipids for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, all native lipids, such as, for. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like as well as the lipids of different polarities listed below:
  • paraffin oil in particular and other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane and squalene are advantageously used as further lipids for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention and foams obtainable therefrom can be composed as usual.
  • Preparations for skin care are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention: they can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, for treating the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists of after-sun products.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • cleaning foams which can be used, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild washing foam — possibly also for impure skin.
  • cleaning foams can also advantageously be used as “rinse off 1 preparations” which are rinsed off the skin after use
  • Foams obtainable from cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be present in the form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam which is used for blow-drying the hair, a hairdressing and treatment foam.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention and / or foams obtainable therefrom are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols , Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols , Polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropylbutyl carbamates (for example those available from Lonza under the trade names Koncy! -L, Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB), parabens , Phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like and more.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants which are suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles e.g. urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g
  • thioglucose e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyi, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, paimitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid
  • Bile extracts bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, eg. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • the active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
  • vitamins of the B and D series vitamins of the B and D series
  • vitamin B 1 the vitamin B12 the vitamin D 1t but also
  • the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit and Neocerit.
  • the active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are intended for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin ,
  • the preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.
  • the active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group comprising catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family , especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the Theaceae plant family , especially the species Camellia sinensis (green tea).
  • Their typical ingredients such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids are particularly advantageous.
  • Catechins represent a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or antioeyanidines and derivatives of "catechins” (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4- Dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-trio! Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention. Also advantageous are plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien- sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.
  • Preferred active ingredients are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechol, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechinate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) ⁇ epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin , (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.
  • Flavon and its derivatives are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):
  • flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.
  • the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Zi to Z 7 are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula where Z- ⁇ to Ze are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.
  • Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula
  • Gly ⁇ Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly-i, Giy 2 and Giy 3 are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously.
  • pentosyl residues may also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • Z to Z 5 are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure
  • Glyi, Gly 2 and Gly 3 independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly 2 or Gly 3 can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.
  • Gly ! , Gly 2 and Gly 3 are independently selected from the group of hexosyl residues, especially rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues.
  • hexosyl radicals for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.
  • flavone glycosides from the group ⁇ -glucosyl rutin, ⁇ -glucosyl myrcetin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercitrin, ⁇ -glucosyl iso-quercetin and ⁇ -glucosyl-quercitrin.
  • ⁇ -glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.
  • naringin aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid
  • hesperidin 3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 , -methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, washer retin-7-O-rutinoside.
  • Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranösyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3.3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy- ⁇ -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), er
  • the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.
  • Coenzyme Q10 which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:
  • Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:
  • Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.
  • acyl-camitines which are selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula
  • the list of the active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.
  • Skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical pollutants
  • exogenous factors e.g. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:
  • formulations according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or considerably increase the effect of known anti-wrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, formulations in the sense of the present invention are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those e.g. B. occur in skin aging. They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • the present invention therefore relates to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermal water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water joss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the rope company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below.
  • the Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • Chlorophyll a and b Copper compounds of chlorophyll and 75810 green
  • Chromium oxide containing 77289 green
  • Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 white
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1 '-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid , Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • metal oxides such as. B. silica and the like.
  • TiO 2 and Fe 2 0 3 coated SiO 2 particles are advantageous for. B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 0 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations , It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection from sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. So z.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams or makeup products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 0 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.
  • Barium sulfate (BaSO 4 ) is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • such pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se be provided with a hydrophobic layer.
  • z. B titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are under the trade name T805 available from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are Ti0 2 pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.
  • Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units.
  • Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the inorganic pigments are also advantageous to coat with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also referred to as simethicone. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI: bisoctyl-triazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tin ⁇ sorb® M is marked and is available under the trade name Tin ⁇ sorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of the filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen! serve for hair or skin.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-buty!) - 4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand name Parsol ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid
  • salts especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis sodium salt
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom.
  • the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2- Ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by CIBA-Chemicals GmbH is available.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g.
  • UV filter substances which the structural motif
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula is reproduced, whereby
  • R represents a branched or unbranched C 8 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 2 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups,
  • X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group
  • Ri is a branched or unbranched CC 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched C C - ⁇ - alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C r C 4 alkyl groups
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10
  • R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 18 alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CrC 4 alkyl groups, when X represents the Represents NH group, and a branched or unbranched C 8 -C alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC 4 alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula
  • A represents a branched or unbranched CrCi ⁇ alkyl radical, a C 5 -C 12 cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C r C 4 alkyl groups,
  • R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.
  • a particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula
  • dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.
  • a symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 , -hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.
  • Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3-sulfonato) - 2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] pheny! ⁇ - 6- (4-methoxy- phenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyI- carboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyI ⁇ -6 -
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • Tinosorb® M is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula
  • the UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .: ⁇ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; ⁇ 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 -hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzaimalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. For example: » salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
  • ⁇ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as.
  • a further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic
  • emulsion I 90 vol.% Of emulsion I is foamed with 10 vol.% Of a propellant gas mixture of propane and butane 3 .
  • the foaming can e.g. B. done by blowing gas into the preparations or beating, shaking, spraying or stirring in the relevant gas atmosphere (violently).
  • Example 2 O W lotion:
  • Emulsion III 95% by volume of Emulsion III is combined with 5% by volume
  • emulsion IV 85 vol.% Of emulsion IV is foamed with 15 vol.% Nitrogen 3 .
  • Vitamin E acetate 2.00
  • emulsion VI 92 vol.% Of emulsion VI is foamed with 8 vol.% Of a propellant gas mixture of propane and butane 3 .
  • emulsion VII 85 vol.% Of emulsion VII is foamed with 15 vol.% Helium 3 .

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques moussantes qui contiennent (I) un système d'émulsifiants comprenant (A) au moins un émulsifiant A, choisi dans le groupe des acides gras entièrement, partiellement ou non neutralisés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés, saturés et/ou non saturés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, (B) au moins un émulsifiant B, choisi dans le groupe des esters d'acides gras polyéthoxylés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone et un degré d'éthoxylation compris entre 5 et 100, et (C) au moins un coémulsifiant C, choisi dans le groupe des alcools gras saturés et/ou non saturés, ramifiés et/ou non ramifiés présentant une longueur de chaîne de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone, et (II) jusqu'à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation moussante, d'une phase lipide contenant un ou plusieurs lipides du groupe des huiles ou des cires de silicone.
EP02764702A 2001-07-17 2002-07-16 Preparations moussantes Withdrawn EP1411884A2 (fr)

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