Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a gelled reducing composition, intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and also at least one hydrophobic part thus as its uses for bleaching and permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair.
• bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents It is known to bleach keratin fibers and in particular human hair, with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents.
• oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or of compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.
• reducing agents preferably used in the context of permanent deformation of the hair are thiols such as thioglycolic acid, its salts and esters, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine or cysteamine, and sulfites.
• compositions intended for bleaching the hair using reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing the reducing agent (s) which are mixed at the time. use with an aqueous composition optionally containing a pH agent.
• the bleaching compositions are also in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the or. reducing agents at the appropriate pH.
• the reducing compositions for the permanent deformation of the hair are generally in the form of aqueous compositions ready for use or in the form of anhydrous powdery or liquid compositions which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition at the appropriate pH.
• the gel form most often corresponds to a practical concern for the formulator: to facilitate the taking of the product out of its packaging without significant loss, to limit the diffusion of the product to the local treatment area and to be able to use it in sufficient quantities to obtain the desired cosmetic effect.
• This objective is important for the reducing formulations used in bleaching or in permanent deformation of the hair. These must spread out well and be distributed evenly along the keratin fibers and do not drip onto the forehead, nape of the neck, face or into the eyes.
• compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair, ready to use, containing the reducing agent or agents, and in addition the thickening systems of the prior art did not allow a sufficiently precise application. without drips or drops in viscosity over time.
• compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair containing at least one reducing agent ready to use, under form of gels which do not flow and therefore remain well localized at the point of application, and which also make it possible to obtain discoloration or permanent and powerful and homogeneous deformations, if an effective amount of an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and in addition at least one hydrophobic part.
• a subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising, in a support suitable for keratin materials:
• At least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and also at least one hydrophobic part and, (b) at least one reducing agent.
• the invention also relates to the use of these polymers as thickening and / or gelling agent in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one reducing agent.
• the subject of the present invention is therefore the use of these polymers in a ready-to-use composition for discoloration or permanent deformation of the fibers.
• Human keratin and in particular the hair comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching or permanent deformation, at least one reducing agent.
• ready-to-use composition is meant, within the meaning of the invention, the composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.
• the polymer according to the invention may be present in one or more or in all of the mixed compositions.
• the polymer according to the invention can be present in an anhydrous composition in the form of preferably powdery powder or cream and / or in one or more aqueous compositions.
• the polymer or polymers according to the invention are present in at least one aqueous composition which is mixed at the time of use with a composition either aqueous or anhydrous in the form of powder or cream and containing at least one reducing agent.
• Another preferred form of the invention is a unique composition containing the reducing agent (s) and the polymer (s) according to the invention.
• Another object targeted by the present invention is the use of these polymers in an anhydrous composition comprising at least one reducing agent, said composition being intended to be diluted before application to the fibers.
• the invention also relates to a bleaching process and a process for permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair using the bleaching composition or permanent deformation ready for use as described above, the application of said composition which can be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition.
• a device with two compartments comprises a first compartment containing at least one powder or an anhydrous cream or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and the at least one of the two compartments containing at least one polymer according to the invention.
• amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.
• amphiphilic polymer means any polymer comprising both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part and in particular a fatty chain.
• the hydrophobic part present in the polymers of the invention preferably contains from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• the polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or totally neutralized with an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methyl glucamine, basic amino acids like arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
• an inorganic base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia
• organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N- methyl glucamine, basic amino acids like arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
• amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mole.
• amphiphilic polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
• crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are chosen.
• the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
• TMPTA trimethylol propane triacrylate
• the ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinyisulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (CC 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids, N- ⁇ C ⁇ alky met Jacrylamido ⁇ C 22 ) alkylsulfonic acids. undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms. -
• (meth) acrylamido (CC 22 ) alkyl sulfonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulfonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulfonic acid, acid 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropane-sulfonic, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2- acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane-sulfonic acid , 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms.
• acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid such as, for example, acrylamido-methane-sulfonic acid, acryla
• amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine C 6 -C 22 , and such as those described in the application WO00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description).
• These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in ⁇ or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides , vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
• hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in ⁇ or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides , vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
• the preferred polymers of the invention are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
• copolymers can also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth) acrylic acids, their alkyl derivatives substituted in ⁇ or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
• acrylic acids their alkyl derivatives substituted in ⁇ or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols
• (meth) acrylamides vinylpyrrolidone
• maleic anhydride itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.
• hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (I) below:
• Y denotes O or NH;
• R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
• x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.
• the radical R2 is preferably chosen from linear C 6 -C ⁇ 8 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane ( C 12 ) or adamantane (C 10 )); C 6 -C 18 alkylperfluorinated radicals (for example the group of formula - (CH 2 ) 2 - (CF 2 ) 9 -CF 3 ); the cholesteryl radical (C 27 ) or a residue of cholesterol ester such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene.
• these radicals more particularly preferred are linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical.
• the monomer of formula (I) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x> 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.
• the polyoxyalkylenated chain preferably, consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consisting of ethylene oxide units.
• the number of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 3 to 100 and more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.
• - terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C 6 -C 18 ) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,089,578.
• X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, and of units of formula (III) below: in which x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R
• the polymers for which X + denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.
• the preferred amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can be obtained according to conventional radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, ABAH (2,2- azobis [2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, • benzoyl hydroperoxide, tert-butyl, etc., peroxide compounds minerals such as potassium persulfate or ammonium, or H2O2 possibly in the presence of reducing agents.
• AIBN azobisisobutyronitrile
• ABAH 2,2- azobis [2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride
• organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, • benzoyl hydroperoxide, tert-butyl, etc.
• peroxide compounds minerals such as potassium persulfate or ammonium, or
• the particle size distribution of the polymer can be determined for example by laser diffraction or image analysis.
• An interesting distribution for type of polymer and determined by image analysis is as follows: 60.2% less than 423 microns, 52.0% less than 212 microns, 26.6% less than 106 microns, 2.6% less than 45 microns and 26.6% greater than 850 microns.
• the reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150 ° C, preferably between 10 and 100 ° C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.
• AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
• one of its sodium or ammonium salts was polymerized with an ester of (meth) acrylic acid and,
• the molar concentration in% of the units of formula (11) and of the units of formula (III) in the polymers according to the invention will vary depending on the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties of the formulation sought. It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9% by moles.
• the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) varies from 50.1 to 99.9%, more particularly from 70 to 95% and even more particularly from 80 to 90% .
• the molar proportion of units of formula (I) or (III) varies from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly from 5 to 25% and even more particularly from 10 to 20%.
• the distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention can be, for example, alternating, block (including multiblock) or any.
• the polymers have pendant chains sensitive to heat and whose aqueous solution has a viscosity which, beyond a certain threshold temperature, increases, or remains practically constant when the temperature increases.
• polymers are preferred whose aqueous solution has a viscosity which is low below a first threshold temperature and which, above this first threshold temperature increases towards a maximum when the temperature increases, and which, above of a second threshold temperature decreases again when the temperature increases.
• the viscosity of the polymer solutions below the first threshold temperature is from 5 to 50%, in particular from 10 to 30% of the maximum viscosity at the second threshold temperature.
• These polymers preferably, lead in water to a phenomenon of demixing by heating resulting in curves having, as a function of the temperature and the concentration, a minimum called LCST (Lower Critical Solution Temperature).
• the viscosities (measured at 25 ° C. with a Brookfield viscometer needle 7) of the 1% aqueous solutions preferably range from 20,000 mPas to 100,000 mPas and more particularly from 60,000 mPas to 70,000 mPas.
• amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more particularly still from 0.5 to 2% by weight.
• reducing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.
• compositions intended for bleaching it is also possible to use ascorbic acid, its salts and its esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and its esters, sulfinates such as sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate.
• reducing agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 30% approximately, preferably from 0.5 to 20% approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention can also comprise, at least one amphoteric or cationic polymer.
• cationic polymer designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
• the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
• the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 e approximately.
• cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type.
• R3 identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
• A represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• R-] and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
• the polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (CJ-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
• comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (CJ-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
• Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.
• Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d 'an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides
• Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1.
• Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
• Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170” or “Delsette 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.
• Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R7 and Rs independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C -1-C4), or R 7 and RQ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
• R7 and R ⁇ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon;
• Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
• R12 and R 13 > together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else
• R-I0 "Rl 1 > R 12 and R 13 represent an alkyl radical in Cj-Cg linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R- -D or -CO-NH- R-14-D group where R-14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
• A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
• 2 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group -
• X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
• R 12 and R-13 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
• Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): O - (CH 2 ) 2 4- (IX)
• D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH2) r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X "is an anion;
• Such polymers can be prepared according to the methods described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.
• Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
• - C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide.
• This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED
• colloids It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names of "SALCARE® SC 95" and “SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10) (11) and (14) and even more preferably the polymers with recurring units of formulas (W) and (U) below:
• CH 3 C 2 H 5 and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is approximately 1200.
• the concentration of cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3%.
• K and M can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon radical, or although K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit, one of the carboxyl groups of which has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
• amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
• the vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
• the copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are offered under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.
• Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reagents, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amino substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
• the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutyl-acrylamide, N-tertiooctyl-acrylamide , N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
• the acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
• the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl aminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
• Copolymers are particularly used, the name CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) being Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
• R-jg represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid having an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a radical deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amino
• Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical
• the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acid, ethylenic double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.
• the alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
• R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
• y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
• R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom
• R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.
• the polymers comprising such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
• non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
• non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
• the copolymer of butyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
• R 25 represents a radical of formula:
• each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkoyiamine residue or a dialkoylamine residue possibly interrupted by one or more atoms nitrogen and / or optionally substituted with one or more amino, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio, sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R26. 27 and R28 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q 1, R2, R27 and R28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
• More particularly preferred polymers of this type comprise from 0 to 20% by weight of units (XIII), from 40 to 50% by weight of units (XIV), and from 40 to 50% by weight of units (XV) in which R25 denotes the radical -CH2-CH2-; (6) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan sold under the name "EVALSAN" by the company JAN DEKKER.
• R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O radical, CH3CH2O, phenyl
• R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
• R3-I denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
• R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: - 33-N (R3i) 2,
• R33 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2 -CH (CH3) -, R31 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms,
• r is such that the molecular weight is between 500 and 6,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 1,000,000.
• E or E ' denote a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and or urethane;
• E denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E';
• E having the meaning indicated above ° and E 'is a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with the acid chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
• N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
• amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1).
• the amphoteric polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight , of the total weight of the composition.
• compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more surfactants.
• the surfactant (s) can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
• surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
• anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C 6 - C 24 ) alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl amidesulfosucc
• alkyl esters C 6 -C 24 carboxylic polyglycosides such as the alkylglucoside citrates, the alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and the alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates.
• anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
• alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts the polyoxyalkylene carboxylic (C 6 -C 2 ) ether acids, the polyoxyalkylene (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, the alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) polyoxyalkylene carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and their mixtures.
• Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated alkylphenols, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which can range in particular from 2 to 50.
• copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene on fatty alcohols polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (C ⁇ Q - C14) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall
• Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of alkyl (C8-C-20) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C-20) amidoalkyl (C ⁇
• R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R2-COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl radical , nonyl or undecyl, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 denotes a carboxymethyl group; and R 2 '-CONHCH 2 CH2-N (B) (C) in which: B represents -CH2CH2O, C represents - (CH2) Z -Y', with z 1 or 2,
• X 'de notes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom
• Y 'de notes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H
• cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives. ; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
• the amounts of surfactants present in the composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.1 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
• the pH of the ready-to-use composition is generally between approximately 1.5 and
• the pH of the ready-to-use compositions of the invention intended for bleaching is between approximately 1, 5 and 10, and even more preferably between approximately 1, 5 and 7. More preferably, the pH of the compositions of the ready-to-use invention intended for permanent deformation is between approximately 6 and 12 and even more preferably between approximately 7 and 11.
• This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents well known in the state of the art in discoloration or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
• basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali or ammonium carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and oxyethylenated ethylene diamines and / or oxypropylenees, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:
• R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C r C 4 alkyl radical
• R 38 , R 39 , R 40 and R 4i which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a CC 4 alkyl or CC hydroxyalkyl radical.
• the acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acids sulfonic.
• the basifying or acidifying agents may represent approximately 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the discoloration or permanent deformation composition.
• the compositions of the invention can also contain sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).
• EDTA ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid
• compositions containing the reducing agent and the polymer according to the invention are in anhydrous form (powder or cream), they contain the main agents and additives mentioned above in the form of essentially anhydrous solids or liquids.
• the medium containing the reducing agent when it is an aqueous medium, it may optionally comprise cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as the diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, the monoethyl ether or the monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
• the solvents can then be present in concentrations ranging from approximately 0.5 to 20% and, preferably, from approximately 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the bleaching or permanent deformation composition according to the invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, also previously known in bleaching or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers and in particular, waxes, volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic or linear or branched, organomodified (in particular by amino groups) or not, preservatives, UV filters, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, etc. ...
• other agents also previously known in bleaching or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers and in particular, waxes, volatile or non-volatile silicones, cyclic or linear or branched, organomodified (in particular by amino groups) or not, preservatives, UV filters, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, vitamins or provitamins such as panthenol, opacifiers, etc. ...
• the bleaching process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition to the dry or wet keratin fibers, and to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes approximately, and more preferably 10 to 45 minutes approximately, to rinse the fibers, then optionally to wash them in shampoo, then to rinse them again, and to dry them.
• the permanent deformation method according to the invention consists in applying the reducing composition ready for use to the dry or wet keratin fibers, to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes. approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes approximately, optionally rinsing the fibers, then applying an oxidizing composition and leaving to act for a pause time of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then optionally at wash them in shampoo, then rinse again, and dry them.
• Mechanical means for tensioning the keratin fibers can be used before, during or after application of the reducing composition and removed before or after rinsing the oxidizing composition.
• glycidyl (meth) acrylate or of (meth) acrylic acid, or of an alkyl (meth) acrylate, or of a (meth) acryloyl halide on a fatty alcohol.
• ethoxylated There may be mentioned, by way of nonlimiting examples, the following preparations: a) from glycidyl methacrylate and GENAPOL T-250 b) from (meth) acrylic acid and GENAPOL UD-070 c) from methyl (meth) acrylate and GENAPOL LA-090 d) from (meth) acryloyl chloride and GENAPOL UD-070.
• the monomer obtained can be used for polymerization without further purification.
• the polymer thus prepared precipitates.
• the mixture is brought to reflux for 2 hours, and the polymer is separated from the solvent by suction filtration, then it is dried under reduced pressure.
• the above bleaching composition was applied to natural gray hair with
• MOVIDA with a bath ratio of 10 g for 1 g of hair.
• This reducing composition was applied to a lock of damp hair, previously wound on a curler 9 mm in diameter.
• the wick was wavy.

Landscapes

• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=26212797

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (3)

Family Cites Families (12)

• 2001
  • 2001-01-11 FR FR0100327A patent/FR2818546B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2001-12-19 EP EP01994912A patent/EP1345578A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2001-12-19 WO PCT/FR2001/004076 patent/WO2002051368A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation

Non-Patent Citations (1)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events