Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition for bleaching or permanent deformation of keratin fibers and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising at least one reducing agent and at least two particular polyether polyurethanes.
• bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents It is known to bleach keratin fibers and in particular human hair, with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents.
• oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or of compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred.
• reducing agents preferably used in the context of permanent deformation of the hair are thiols such as thioglycolic acid, its salts and esters, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine or cysteamine, and sulfites.
• compositions intended for bleaching the hair using reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing the reducing agent (s) which are mixed at the time. use with an aqueous composition optionally containing a pH agent.
• the bleaching compositions are also in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the reducing agent (s) at the appropriate pH.
• the reducing compositions for permanent deformation of the hair are generally in the form of aqueous compositions ready for use or in the form of anhydrous powdery or liquid compositions which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition at the appropriate pH.
• the Applicant has found that the thickening systems mentioned above did not make it possible to obtain sufficiently powerful and homogeneous discolourations or permanent deformations. Furthermore, it also found that the compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair, ready to use, containing the reducing agent or agents, and in addition the thickening systems of the prior art did not allow a sufficiently precise application. without drips or drops in viscosity over time.
• compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair containing at least one reducing agent ready to use, which do not flow and therefore remain well located at the point of application, and which also make it possible to obtain discoloration or permanent and powerful and homogeneous deformations, if the combination of at least two polyurethane polyethers is introduced into the composition below defined.
• ready-to-use composition is meant, within the meaning of the invention, the composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.
• the subject of the present invention is thus a ready-to-use composition for bleaching or permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as the hair, comprising, in a medium suitable for bleaching or permanent deformation , at least one reducing agent, which is characterized in that it also contains at least the combination:
• a polyether polyurethane (a) capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 moles of ethylene oxide,
• polyurethane polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 50 to 500 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) at least one alcohol fatty C8-C30 different from that of polyether polyurethane (a) and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
• the combination of said polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b) may be present in one or more or in all of the compositions mixed In this way , the combination of said polyurethane polyethers may be present in an anhydrous composition in the form of preferably powdery powder or cream and / or in one or more aqueous compositions
• the combination of said polyurethane polyethers is present in at least one aqueous composition which is mixed at the time of use with a composition either aqueous or anhydrous in the form of powder or cream and containing at least a reducing agent
• a composition either aqueous or anhydrous in the form of powder or cream and containing at least a reducing agent
• Another preferred form of the invention is a single composition containing the reducing agent (s) and the combination of said polyurethane polyethers
• Another object targeted by the present invention is an anhydrous composition containing at least one reducing agent and at least one combination defined above of two polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b), said composition being intended to be diluted before application to the fibers
• the invention also relates to a bleaching process or a process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair using the bleaching composition or permanent deformation ready for use as described according to invention, the application of said composition being able to be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition
• the invention also relates to bleaching devices or "Kits" for packaging containing such a ready-to-use composition.
• a device with two compartments comprises a first compartment containing at least one powder or an anhydrous cream or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition I at least two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and at least one of two compartments containing at least the combination defined above of two polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b)
• polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b) according to the invention can be prepared according to the methods described in US Patents 4,079,028, 4,180,491, 4,155,892 and 5,281,654
• polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b) will be used for which the polyethylene glycol contains 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide.
• a polyether polyurethane (a) or (b) will be used. to a sacchande and more particularly to maltodext ⁇ ne
• polyether polyurethanes (a) and (b) will be used for which the diisocyanate is methylene b ⁇ s (4-cyclohexyl ⁇ socyanate)
• a bleaching or permanent deformation composition more particularly preferred according to the invention is a composition as defined above, for which the polyether polyurethane (a) is obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising, a polyethylene glycol at 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol (C18) and methylene b ⁇ s (4-cyclohexyl ⁇ socyanate), and the polyether polyurethane (b) is obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising, a polyethylene glycol at 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol (C10) and methylene b ⁇ s (4-cyclohexyl ⁇ socya ⁇ ate)
• ACULYN 46 which is a polycondensate comprising at least as elements, a polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, alcohol stearyl and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%).
• SMDI methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate)
• ACULYN 44 which is a polycondensate comprising at least as elements, a polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 moles of oxide ethylene, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%).
• the quantity by weight of the polyether polyurethane (a) is preferably between approximately 0.01 and 5%, and even more preferably between 0.02 and 2%, and that of the polyether polyurethane (b) varies preferably between about 0.01 and 5%, and even more preferably between 0.02 and 2%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the weight ratio of the polyether polyurethane (a) to the polyether polyurethane (b) is preferably between 0.1 and 10 and preferably between 0.5 and 5.
• the reducing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.
• thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.
• reducers are used in said ready-to-use compositions in concentrations of between 0.1 and 30% approximately, preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight, by adding to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention may also contain, at least one cationic or amphoteric substantive polymer.
• cationic polymer designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be lonized into cationic groups
• the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto
• the cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3 10 6 approximately
• cationic polymers mention may be made more particularly of polymers of the polyamine poiyaminoamide and poly quaternary ammonium type. These are known products. They are described in particular in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among said polymers, mention may be made of
• R3 identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
• A identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• R4, R5, R ⁇ identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to
• R 1 and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
• the polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacryiamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacryiamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (CJ -C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyipyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters
• comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacryiamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacryiamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (CJ -C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyipyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters
• Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacryimidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.
• guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.
• a salt eg chloride
• Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.
• Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene tnamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylammohydroxypropyl / diethylene tnamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
• Le molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4 4
• the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorhyd ⁇ ne in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group polyaminoamide of between 0.5 1 and 1.8 1.
• R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
• R7 and R 8 independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C1-C4), or R7 and RQ can denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl;
• R7 and R 8 independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
• ⁇ 11 - R 12 and R 13 represent a linear or branched C - -CQ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R14-D or -CO-NH- R14-D group where R14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
• A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X " denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, RJ O and R -12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if A1 denotes an alkylene radical or linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydroxyalkylene, B1 can also denote a group - (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZ
• x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4 , representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical
• X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
• RJ O 11.
• R 12 and 13 identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from about 2 to 20 and, X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
• cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324 and can be prepared according to the methods described in US patents No. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906 , 4,719,282.
• Quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B A.S.F
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines of polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates of quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives
• cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10) (11) and (14) and even more preferably the polymers of the following formulas (W) and (U)
• the concentration of cationic polymer in the compositions according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3%.
• amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from polymers comprising K and M units distributed statistically in the polymer chain, where K denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and M denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or else K and M may denote groups deriving from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines; K and M can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon radical, or although K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit, one of the carboxylic groups of which has been caused to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or
• amphoteric film-forming polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
• the vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
• the copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are offered under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295 and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.
• Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacryiamides substituted on nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reactants, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
• N-substituted acrylamides or methacryiamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutyl-acrylamide, N-tertiooctyl-acrylamide , N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacryiamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacryiamides.
• the acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
• the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl aminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
• Copolymers are particularly used, the name CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) being Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
• R- j g represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono or dicarboxylic acid with ethylene double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or of a radical derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary or secondary bis amine
• Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents : a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the radical
• the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acid, ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic and methacrylic acids. itaconic acid.
• the alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
• R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
• y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
• R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom
• R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.
• the polymers comprising such units can also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as acrylate or dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacryiamides or vinyl acetate.
• non-zwitterionic monomers such as acrylate or dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacryiamides or vinyl acetate.
• the copolymer of methyl methacrylate / dimethyl-carboxymethylammonio-ethylmethacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.
• R 2 5 represents a radical of formula:
• each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue possibly interrupted by one or more atoms of nitrogen and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R26, 27 and R28 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q 1, R26, R 27 and 28 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
• R29 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH3O radical, CH3CH2O, phenyl
• R30 denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
• R3- j denotes hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl
• R32 denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R33-N (R3i) 2, R33 representing a group -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, R31 having the meanings mentioned above, as well as the higher homologs of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms.
• N- y and X denote the symbol E or E ', E or E' which are identical or different denote a bivalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted main chain or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which can additionally contain oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings, the oxygen atoms of nitrogen and sulfur being present in the form of ether groups , thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamme alkenylamine, benzyiamine hydroxyl groups, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and / or urethane,
• E ⁇ / and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E', E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 atoms of carbon in the main chain, whether or not substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising a or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloroacetate
• amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1) According to the invention, the amphoteric polymer (s) can represent from 0 01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and even more preferentially from 0.1% to 3% by weight total composition
• compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more surfactants
• the surfactant (s) may be chosen individually or as a mixture within the anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants
• surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
• anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycesulfates, alkyl sulfonates alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, paraffins (C 6 -C 24) sulfosuccinates, alkyl (C 6 -C 4) éthersulfosuccinates, alkyl (C 6 -C 2) amidesulfo
• alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts it is also possible to use the alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, the polyoxyalkylenated aikyl acids (C 6 -C 24 ), the polyoxyalkylenated aryl ether carboxylic acids. 6 -C 2 ) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and their mixtures.
• Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated alkylphenols, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which can range in particular from 2 to 50.
• Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl amidoalkyl (Ci-C ⁇ ) betaines or (CQ-C20) amidoalkyl (C-
• B represents -CH2CH2OX '
• C represents - (CH2) Z -Y'
• z 1 or 2
• Y' denotes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H
• Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium
• Caprylamphodipropionate Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroampho- dipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid.
• cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
• the amounts of surfactants present in the ready-to-use composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 30% and preferably from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
• compositions according to the invention may also contain other rheology adjusting agents such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, etc.), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar, etc.), microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acryiamidopropanesulfonic acid and ionic or nonionic associative polymers such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TR1 or TR2 by the company GOODRICH, SALCARE SC90 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44, or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.
• additional thickeners can represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
• the pH of the ready-to-use composition is generally between approximately 1.5 and 12.
• the pH of the ready-to-use compositions of the invention intended for bleaching is between approximately 1, 5 and 10, and even more preferably between approximately 1, 5 and 7. More preferably, the pH of the compositions of the ready-to-use invention intended for permanent deformation is between approximately 6 and 12 and even more preferably between approximately 7 and 11.
• This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents well known in the state of the art in discoloration or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
• basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali or ammonium carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and oxyethylenated ethylenediamines and / or oxypropylenes, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:
• R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a CC 4 alkyl radical
• R 38 , R 39 , R 40 and R 41 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C- ⁇ -C alkyl radical or a C ⁇ -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical.
• the acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acids sulfonic.
• the basifying or acidifying agents may represent approximately 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the discoloration or permanent deformation composition.
• compositions of the invention can also contain sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).
• sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).
• compositions containing the reducing agent and the combination defined above of two polyurethane polyethers (a) and (b) are in anhydrous form (powder or cream), they contain the main agents and additives mentioned above in the form essentially anhydrous solids or liquids. They can also contain at least one additive chosen from the following at a concentration of 0 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition: mineral or organic fillers such as silica or clays; binders such as vinyipyrrolidone, oils or waxes, polyalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycol derivatives; lubricants such as polyol stearates or alkali or alkaline earth metal sterates; dyes or matifiers such as titanium oxides.
• mineral or organic fillers such as silica or clays
• binders such as vinyipyrrolidone, oils or waxes, polyalkylene glycols or polyalkylene glycol derivatives
• lubricants such as polyol ste
• the medium containing the reducing agent when it is an aqueous medium, it may optionally contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as the diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, the monoethyl ether or the monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol, in concentrations of between approximately 0.5 and 20% and, preferably, between approximately 2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• cosmetically acceptable organic solvents including more particularly alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phen
• the bleaching or permanent deformation composition according to the invention may also contain an effective amount of other agents, previously known previously in bleaching or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers, such as various usual adjuvants such as volatile or non-cyclic silicones or linear or branched, organomodified (in particular by amino groups) or non-organomodified preservatives, ceramides, waxes or oils, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, acids and in particular AHAs etc.
• agents previously known previously in bleaching or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers
• various usual adjuvants such as volatile or non-cyclic silicones or linear or branched, organomodified (in particular by amino groups) or non-organomodified preservatives, ceramides, waxes or oils, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, acids and in particular AHAs etc.
• the bleaching process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition according to the invention, to the dry or wet keratmic fibers, and to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes approximately, to rinse the fibers, then optionally to wash them in shampoo, then to rinse them again, and to dry them
• the permanent deformation method according to the invention consists in applying the reducing composition ready for use to the dry or wet keratmic fibers, to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes. approximately, and more preferably from 10 to 45 minutes approximately, optionally rinsing the fibers, then applying an oxidizing composition and leaving to act for a pause time of between 1 and 20 minutes and preferably between 1 and 10 minutes, then optionally at wash them with shampoo, then rinse them again, and dry them
• Mechanical means for tensioning the keratmic fibers can be used before, during or after application of the reducing composition and removed before or after rinsing the oxidizing composition Concrete examples illustrating the invention are indicated below, without however being limiting in nature.
• the above bleaching composition allowed for regular bleaching of artificially dyed hair with an oxidation dye.
• the above permanent deformation composition was applied for 15 minutes to wet hair previously wound on styling rollers, then rinsed thoroughly with water.
• An 8-volume hydrogen peroxide solution of pH 3 was then applied for 5 minutes, then rinsed again, the rollers were removed and dried.
• the hair presented a beautiful homogeneous crimp.

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• 1999
  • 1999-12-13 FR FR9915681A patent/FR2802095B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2000
  • 2000-11-10 WO PCT/FR2000/003140 patent/WO2001043708A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-11-10 EP EP00979707A patent/EP1239819A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-11-10 AU AU17107/01A patent/AU1710701A/en not_active Abandoned

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