WO2002058661A1 - Composition reductrice pour le traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un poly(vinyllactame) cationique - Google Patents
Composition reductrice pour le traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un poly(vinyllactame) cationique Download PDFInfo
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- WO2002058661A1 WO2002058661A1 PCT/FR2002/000254 FR0200254W WO02058661A1 WO 2002058661 A1 WO2002058661 A1 WO 2002058661A1 FR 0200254 W FR0200254 W FR 0200254W WO 02058661 A1 WO02058661 A1 WO 02058661A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
Definitions
- the present application relates to a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising in a support suitable for keratin materials:
- the present invention relates to a gelled reducing composition, intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising a cationic poly (vinyllactam) as well as its uses for bleaching and permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair.
- a gelled reducing composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising a cationic poly (vinyllactam) as well as its uses for bleaching and permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and more particularly of the hair.
- bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents It is known to bleach keratin fibers and in particular human hair, with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents.
- oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing peroxide. by hydrolysis, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide and persulfates being particularly preferred
- reducing agents preferably used in the context of permanent deformation of the hair are thiols such as thioglycolic acid, its salts and esters, thiolactic acid and its salts, cysteine or cysteamine, and sulfites.
- compositions intended for bleaching the hair using reducing agents are mainly in the form of ready-to-use compositions consisting of anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing the reducing agent (s) which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition optionally containing a pH agent.
- the bleaching compositions are also in the form of aqueous ready-to-use compositions containing the reducing agent (s) at the appropriate pH.
- the reducing compositions for permanent deformation of the hair are generally in the form of aqueous compositions ready for use or in the form of anhydrous powdery or liquid compositions which are mixed at the time of use with an aqueous composition at the appropriate pH.
- the gel form most often corresponds to a practical concern for the formulator: to facilitate the taking of the product out of its packaging without significant loss, to limit the diffusion of the product to the local treatment area and to be able to use it in sufficient quantities to obtain the desired cosmetic effect.
- This objective is important for the reducing formulations used in bleaching or in permanent deformation of the hair. These should spread well and be distributed evenly along the keratin fibers and should not run on the forehead, the nape of the neck, the face or in the eyes.
- compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair, ready to use, containing the reducing agent or agents, and in addition the thickening systems of the prior art did not allow a sufficiently precise application. without drips or drops in viscosity over time.
- compositions for bleaching or permanent deformation of the hair containing at least one reducing agent ready to use, under form of gels which do not flow and therefore remain well located at the point of application, and which also make it possible to obtain discoloration or permanent and powerful and homogeneous deformations, if an effective amount of a poly (vinyllactam) is introduced into the composition ) cationic.
- a subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials comprising, in a support suitable for keratin materials: (i) at least one reducing agent and, (ii) at least one poly (vinyllactam) cationic.
- the invention also relates to the use of these cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers as thickening and / or gelling agent in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions comprising at least one reducing agent.
- the present invention thus relates to the use of these cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers in a ready-to-use composition for bleaching or permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair, comprising, in a medium suitable for discoloration or permanent deformation, at least one reducing agent.
- ready-to-use composition is meant, within the meaning of the invention, the composition intended to be applied as it is to keratin fibers, that is to say that it can be stored as it is before use or result from extemporaneous mixture of two or more compositions.
- the ready-to-use composition results from the extemporaneous mixture of several compositions, the polymer according to the invention may be present in one or more or in all of the mixed compositions.
- the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention can be present in an anhydrous composition in the form of preferably powdery powder or cream and / or in one or more aqueous compositions.
- the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymer (s) according to the invention are present in at least one aqueous composition which is mixed at the time of use with a composition either aqueous or anhydrous in powder form. or cream and containing at least one reducing agent.
- Another preferred form of the invention is a unique composition containing the reducing agent (s) and the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymer (s) according to the invention.
- Another object targeted by the present invention is the use of these polymers in an anhydrous composition containing at least one reducing agent, said composition being intended to be diluted before application to the fibers.
- the invention also relates to a bleaching process and a process for permanent deformation of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair using the bleaching composition or permanent deformation ready for use as described above, the application of said composition which can be followed, in the case of permanent deformation, by the application, optionally after rinsing, of an oxidizing composition.
- the invention also relates to bleaching devices or "Kits" for packaging containing such a ready-to-use composition.
- a device with two compartments comprises a first compartment containing at least one powder or an anhydrous cream or an aqueous composition, and the second compartment an aqueous composition, at least one of the two compartments containing at least one reducing agent and the at least one of the two compartments containing at least one cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention.
- Associative polymers are polymers whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds.
- Their chemical structure generally comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone, the hydrophobic zone or zones comprising at least one fatty chain.
- Cationic polyvinylactam polymers according to the invention comprise: -a) at least one vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam type monomer; -b) at least one monomer of the following structures (I) or (II):
- Ri and R ⁇ denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-J-C5 alkyl radical, R2 denotes a linear or branched C-1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C ⁇ -C3Q alkyl radical or a radical of formula (III): - (Y 2 ) - (CH 2 -CH (R 7 ) -0) - R 8 (III)
- Y, Yl and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C- j ⁇ alkylene radical
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical
- R ⁇ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-
- q and r denote, independently of one another, either the value zero or the value 1
- m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 00
- x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
- Z denotes an anion of organic or inorganic acid
- R5 or R3 denotes a linear or branched Cg-C3Q alkyl radical
- the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or noncrosslinked and can also be block polymers.
- the counter ion Z ′′ of the monomers of formula (I) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.
- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-1-C30 alkyl radical.
- the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (I) for which, even more preferably, m and n are equal to zero.
- the vinyl lactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IV):
- s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6
- Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a C-1-C5 alkyl radical
- R-I0 denotes a hydrogen atom or a Cj-Cs alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals Rg and RJ Q denotes a hydrogen atom.
- the monomer (IV) is vinyipyrrolidone.
- the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or nonionic.
- R5 denotes a C9-C24 alkyl radical and c) -a monomer of formula (II) in which R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C-1- alkyl radical C5.
- terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b).
- monomer (a) 0.1 to 55%
- monomer (c) 0.1 to 55%
- monomer (b) 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b).
- Such polymers are described in patent application WO-00/68282, the content of which forms an integral part of the invention.
- poly (vinyllactam) polymers particularly using the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or chloride lauryldiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium.
- the molecular weight by weight of the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000. It is more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and even more preferably between 400,000 and 800,000 .
- the cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, and more particularly from 0.5 to 2%.
- the reducing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from thiols such as cysteine, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, their salts and their esters, cysteamine and its salts or sulphites.
- compositions intended for bleaching it is also possible to use ascorbic acid, its salts and its esters, erythorbic acid, its salts and its esters, sulfinates such as sodium hydroxymethanesulfinate.
- reducing agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from approximately 0.1 to 30%, preferably from approximately 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain, at least one amphoteric polymer or a cationic polymer different from the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the present invention.
- cationic polymer designates any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
- the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
- the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
- the cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 e approximately.
- cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type.
- R3 identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
- A identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5, R5, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R-1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
- the polymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyipyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
- comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones, acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinyipyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
- Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, of methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, of dimethyl-diallylammonium.
- guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups Guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used, for example.
- a salt eg chloride
- Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C 15, JAGUAR® C 17 or JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.
- Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d 'an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides
- Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkoyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine® F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.
- the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1.
- Such polymers are described in particular in the patents American 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.
- Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett® 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170®” or “Delsette® 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene triamine.
- Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
- R7 and Rg independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4), or R7 and Rs can denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl
- R7 and R ⁇ independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
- Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
- 0 > ⁇ 11 ' ⁇ 12 and R 13 ' which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or else R-
- R 12 and R 13 represent a linear or branched C ⁇ ⁇ -CQ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R-14-D or -CO-NH- R group -14-D where R-14 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
- A1, R10 and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; moreover if A1 denotes a linear alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B1 can also denote a group - (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- - in which n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes : a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x-CH2-CH2 -
- X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
- These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
- CH, CH, in which p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH2) r -CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X "is an anion;
- Such polymers can be prepared according to the methods described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906, 4,719,282. They are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.
- Quaternary polymers of vinyipyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.
- Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C- ⁇ -C4) trialkyl (C- ] - C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide.
- a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can more particularly be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
- This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.
- These dispersions are marketed under the names of "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.
- cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
- cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (9), (10) (1 1) and (14) and even more preferably polymers with recurring units of formulas (W) and (U) below:
- CH 3 C 2 H 5 and in particular those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is approximately 1200.
- the concentration of cationic polymer different from the cationic poly (vinyllactam) of the present invention in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and more preferably still from 0.1 to 3%.
- K and M can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked via a hydrocarbon radical, or although K and M form part of a chain of a polymer with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit, one of the carboxyl groups of which has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
- amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
- the vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
- the copolymers of acrylic acid and of the latter monomer are sold under the names MERQUAT® 280, MERQUAT® 295 and MERQUAT® PLUS 3330 by the company CALGON.
- Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on nitrogen by an alkyl radical, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reactants, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
- N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutyl-acrylamide, N-tertiooctyl-acrylamide , N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
- the acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
- Preferred basic comonomers are methacrylates of aminoethyl, butyl aminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl.
- Copolymers are particularly used whose name CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.
- g represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or from a radical derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a primary bis or secondary bis amino
- Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mole%, the radical
- the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic acid and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acid, ethylenic double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.
- the alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
- R20 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
- y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
- R21 and R22 represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom
- R23 and R24 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R23 and R24 does not exceed 10.
- the polymers comprising such units may also contain units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as l dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
- R 25 represents a radical of formula:
- r is such that the molecular weight is between 500 and 6,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 1,000,000.
- E denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E';
- E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a bivalent radical which is a straight or branched chain alkylene radical having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl radicals and comprising a or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily having one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloracetic acid or sodium chloracetate.
- N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine is N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N, N-dialcanolamine.
- copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
- amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are those of the family (1).
- the amphoteric polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight , of the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more surfactants.
- the surfactant (s) can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.
- surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
- anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C 6 - C 2 ) alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl amidesulfosucc
- alkyl esters C 6 -C 24 carboxylic polyglycosides such as the alkylglucoside citrates, the alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and the alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates.
- anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
- alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl ether carboxylic acids, the polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids, the alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic amido ether and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and their mixtures.
- Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, editions Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, within the framework of the present invention, of critical nature. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated alkylphenols, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which can range in particular from 2 to 50.
- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide,
- Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl amidoalkyl (C- ⁇ -CQ) betaines or (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C-i-C ⁇ ) sulfobetaines alkyl.
- aliphatic radical is a chain linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate,
- B represents -CH2CH2O
- X denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom
- Y denotes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H
- cationic surfactants that may be mentioned in particular (nonlimiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraikylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature.
- the amounts of surfactants present in the composition according to the invention can vary from 0.01 to 40% and preferably from 0.5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
- the pH of the ready-to-use composition is generally between approximately 1.5 and 12. More preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use compositions of the invention intended for bleaching is between approximately 1, 5 and 10, and even more preferably between approximately 1.5 and 7.
- the pH of the ready-to-use compositions of the invention intended for permanent deformation is between approximately 6 and 12 and even more preferably between approximately 7 and 11.
- This pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents well known in the state of the art in discoloration or in permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
- basifying agents there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali or ammonium carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxyalkylamines and oxyethylenated ethylenediamines and / or oxypropylenes, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds of formula (XIX) below:
- R is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
- R 3 ⁇ , R 39 , R 4 0 and R 1 l which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CC 4 or hydroxyalkyl in CrC 4 .
- the acidifying agents are conventionally, for example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or acids sulfonic.
- the basifying or acidifying agents may represent approximately 0.01 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the discoloration or permanent deformation composition.
- compositions of the invention can also contain sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).
- sequestering agents such as for example ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA).
- compositions according to the invention may also contain other rheology adjusting agents such as cellulosic thickeners
- These additional thickeners can represent from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
- compositions containing the reducing agent and the cationic poly (vinyllactam) according to the invention are in anhydrous form (powder or cream), they contain the main agents and additives mentioned above in the form of solids or liquids essentially anhydrous.
- the medium containing the reducing agent when it is an aqueous medium, it may optionally contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as the diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, for example, the monoethyl ether or the monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
- the solvents can then be present in concentrations of between approximately 0.5 and 20% and, preferably, between approximately 2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the bleaching or permanent deformation composition according to the invention may also contain an effective amount of other agents, which have previously been known in bleaching or permanent deformation of keratin fibers.
- the bleaching process according to the invention consists in applying the ready-to-use reducing composition to the dry or wet keratin fibers, and to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes approximately, and more preferably 10 to 45 minutes approximately, to rinse the fibers, then optionally to wash them in shampoo, then to rinse them again, and to dry them.
- the permanent deformation method according to the invention consists in applying the reducing composition ready for use to the dry or wet keratin fibers, to leaving it to act for a pause time varying, preferably, from 1 to 60 minutes.
- Mechanical means for tensioning keratin fibers can be used before, during or after application of the reducing composition and removed before or after rinsing the oxidizing composition
- the polymer according to the invention ** is a vinyipyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer offered by the company ISP under the reference POLYMER ACP-1234.
- the above bleaching composition allowed for regular bleaching of artificially dyed hair with an oxidation dye.
- the polymer according to the invention -. * * * * Is a vinyipyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium terpolymer offered by the company ISP under the reference
- the above permanent deformation composition was applied for 15 minutes to wet hair previously wound on styling rollers, then rinsed thoroughly with water. A solution of water was then applied for 5 minutes oxygenated to 8 volumes and pH 3, then rinsed again, the rollers were removed and dried.
- the polymer according to the invention ** is a vinyipyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer offered by the company ISP under the reference POLYMER ACP-1234.
- the above bleaching composition was applied to natural gray hair with
- MOVIDA with a bath ratio of 10 g for 1 g of hair.
- the polymer according to the invention ** is a vinyipyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryldimethylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer offered by the company ISP under the reference POLYMER ACP-1234.
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Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
EP02700363A EP1357891A1 (fr) | 2001-01-26 | 2002-01-22 | Composition reductrice pour le traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un poly(vinyllactame) cationique |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR01/01105 | 2001-01-26 | ||
FR0101105A FR2820035B1 (fr) | 2001-01-26 | 2001-01-26 | Composition reductrice pour le traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un poly (vinyllactame) cationique |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2002058661A1 true WO2002058661A1 (fr) | 2002-08-01 |
Family
ID=8859298
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/FR2002/000254 WO2002058661A1 (fr) | 2001-01-26 | 2002-01-22 | Composition reductrice pour le traitement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un poly(vinyllactame) cationique |
Country Status (4)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1357891A1 (fr) |
CN (1) | CN1254227C (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2820035B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2002058661A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
BE1019434A3 (fr) | 2010-07-23 | 2012-07-03 | Auriga Internat | Stabilisation du sulforaphane. |
WO2012027369A2 (fr) * | 2010-08-23 | 2012-03-01 | Diversapack Of California, Llc | Système et procédé de lissage ou de mise en forme des cheveux |
Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4956430A (en) * | 1989-05-01 | 1990-09-11 | Gaf Chemicals Corporation | Process for preparing substantially pure high molecular weight vinyl lactam-quaternized acrylamide copolymers |
WO2000068282A1 (fr) * | 1999-05-07 | 2000-11-16 | Isp Investments Inc. | Copolymeres triples revitalisants/coiffants |
-
2001
- 2001-01-26 FR FR0101105A patent/FR2820035B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2002
- 2002-01-22 EP EP02700363A patent/EP1357891A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2002-01-22 CN CN 02800867 patent/CN1254227C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2002-01-22 WO PCT/FR2002/000254 patent/WO2002058661A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US4956430A (en) * | 1989-05-01 | 1990-09-11 | Gaf Chemicals Corporation | Process for preparing substantially pure high molecular weight vinyl lactam-quaternized acrylamide copolymers |
WO2000068282A1 (fr) * | 1999-05-07 | 2000-11-16 | Isp Investments Inc. | Copolymeres triples revitalisants/coiffants |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2820035B1 (fr) | 2003-05-02 |
FR2820035A1 (fr) | 2002-08-02 |
CN1254227C (zh) | 2006-05-03 |
EP1357891A1 (fr) | 2003-11-05 |
CN1460016A (zh) | 2003-12-03 |
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