EP1261764A1

EP1261764A1 - Knitted article, in particular body suit, and method for making same

Info

Publication number: EP1261764A1
Application number: EP01913966A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Michel Gelrubin; Karel Bruelemans
Original assignee: Terrot
Current assignee: Terrot
Priority date: 2000-03-08
Filing date: 2001-03-08
Publication date: 2002-12-04
Also published as: AU3936401A; FR2806102A1; WO2001066842A1; FR2806102B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a method for knitting an article such as a body suit, which consists in using, to knit the article, a knitting machine comprising a carriage, rectilinear front needle and rear beds, said needle beds comprising needles actuated by the passage of the needle bed and capable of racking. The knitting machine further comprises a first auxiliary needle bed including loop pressers covering the threads of one of the needle beds (1, 2) as the carriage moves, and a second auxiliary needle bed including jacks (4) for receiving loops to transfer them from one needle to another needle located on the same needle bed. Said method is characterised in that it consists in knitting the article with all the needles using such a machine, the first auxiliary needle bed serving to cover the thread used for knitting the lower part of the front panel while the lower part of the back panel is being knitted, the second needle bed serving to increase or decrease the width of the front and/or back panels while the article is being knitted.

Description

Knitted article, in particular bodysuit, and manufacturing method

The present invention relates to a new knitting process.

It is known to produce a knitted article such as a bodysuit, comprising a front panel and a back panel defining, in the lower part, leg passages and, in the upper part, suspenders, by means of a loom. knitting fabric comprising a front seam and a rear seam which can be knitted.

In a known method, working in planing, that is to say that at least one of the needle beds has needles without stitches, in order to have free needles to perform certain operations, in particular transfers.

Such a method has the disadvantage that the body obtained has relatively spaced meshes.

However, there is a need to reduce the spacing of the meshes and work with a lower gauge. The present invention relates to a new method of knitting an article such as a bodysuit, which is characterized by the fact that a knitting loom comprising, in a manner known per se, a carriage, a needle bed, is used to knit the article. front and a rectilinear rear needle bed, these needle beds comprising needles actuated by the passage of the carriage and capable of knitting, the knitting loom comprising, in addition, a first auxiliary needle bed comprising platinets making it possible to cover the thread of one of the needle beds as the carriage moves, and a second auxiliary needle bed comprising jacks making it possible to receive stitches with a view to their transfer from one needle to another needle situated on the same needle bed, and also by the fact that one knitting all needles the article using such a loom, the first auxiliary needle bed being used to cover the yarn used to knit the lower part of the panel front during knitting of the lower part of the back panel, the second auxiliary needle bed being used to increase or decrease the width of the front and / or back panels during knitting.

Thanks to the invention, it is no longer necessary to knit planed and one can make a body whose meshes are relatively tight and of dimensions depending only on the gauge of the loom used.

Thus, the invention improves the quality of the knitted article by giving it a fine and clean texture.

In a preferred implementation of the method according to the invention, needles are used which are capable of keeping two stitches on hold without assembling them and a finishing stitch is knitted at the base of the neckline of the front or the back, involving the following steps: a) on the needle bed opposite the one to knit the finishing stitch, one needle out of two is released by transferring the stitch it contains on the adjacent needle by means of the second auxiliary needle stitch, the stitches thus transferred do not not joining with those already present on the needles on which the transfer is made, b) knit, in garter stitch, a few rows of stitches in the area below the finishing stitch, and c) after knitting these a few rows, knit the finishing stitch.

The rows knitted in garter stitch prevent the collar from rolling.

Knitting the base of the neckline as described above provides a round neck, either on the front panel or on the back panel, depending on the style of the body, because the necklines of the panel front and back panel may have different dimensions.

Advantageously, the front panel is knitted in arrow signs so as to mark the chest. Preferably, decreases and increases are carried out by simultaneous transfer of several meshes, which makes it possible to obtain a bending effect.

Advantageously, the front and back panels are assembled at the top of the straps by a chain facing inward.

This chain is advantageously obtained by means of a process involving the transfer of a selvedge stitch from one needle bed to the opposite needle bed, after the two heads are touched.

Preferably, the front panel is vanized in the crotch region.

Preferably also, the decreases are made at the armholes and the front neckline by implementing a displacement of the thread guides between the falls (displacement known as kick-back).

The invention also relates to a body knitted by a method such as defined above.

The invention will be better understood on reading the detailed description which follows, of a nonlimiting example of implementation, and the examination of the appended drawing in which: - Figure 1 illustrates, schematically, the different stages of knitting the body, FIGS. 2 to 6 illustrate, very schematically, the structure of the needle beds and needles of the loom used to knit the body, FIGS. 7 to 25 illustrate the manner in which the different parts of the body, and Figures 26 to 29 illustrate, schematically, different types of necks of the body.

There is shown in Figure 1 schematically a bodysuit with the various knitting steps performed.

In the embodiment described, a knitting loom marketed by the company SHIMA SEIKI under the reference First 124S is used to knit the body.

Such a knitting loom comprises a carriage, a front bed and a rectilinear rear bed, these beds comprising needles actuated by the passage of the carriage and capable of knitting, the knitting unit further comprising a first auxiliary bed comprising platinettes (called loop press) for covering the thread as the carriage moves and a second auxiliary needle bed for receiving stitches for transfer from one needle to another located on the same needle bed.

There is shown schematically in Figure 2 the front needle bed 1 and the rear needle bed 2 and a needle 3 of each of these needle beds.

The second auxiliary needle bed comprises transfer jacks 4 making it possible to maintain a stitch M independently in order to carry it from one needle to another of the same needle bed.

The jacks 4 are actuated by control means not shown, for the sake of clarity of the drawing.

There is shown in Figure 3, in top view, the transfer jack 4, which has a central recess 6 in which can be engaged a needle 3 to come deposit or resume a pending mesh on this jack.

FIG. 4 shows a plate called loop presser 5, covering a wire F.

As can be seen in Figure 5, the plates 5 are arranged to cover the wire F extending between the needles 3 as the carriage moves. The needles 3 used are so-called transfer holding needles.

The latter comprise two parts 3a and 3b movable axially with respect to each other, the part 3 a comprising the hook 3 c of the needle 3.

Part 3b comprises two elastically deformable blades. Part 3 a can be moved to a position in which the hook 3 c constitutes the end of the needle and a position in which the hook 3 c retracts between the two blades of part 3 b to allow the maintenance of a first Ml stitch pending.

Part 3b has a 3d shoulder making it possible to maintain a second mesh M2 on standby as illustrated in FIG. 6, the meshes maintained respectively by parts 3a and 3b being kept without being assembled.

To knit the body, we start by knitting the lower parts 11 of the front panel and the back panel.

As illustrated very schematically in Figure 7, we use loop press pads to drown the yarn of the front panel when knitting the back panel.

The fact of embedding the yarn of the front panel makes it possible, when knitting the back panel, which is wider, to prevent the yarn of the front panel from hampering the knitting of the back panel. To make increases in the width of the front panel and the back panel, use the transfer jacks 4, in a manner known per se, as shown diagrammatically in FIG. 8. This knits the entire lower part 11 of the body 10 shown in Figure 1.

Then, to knit the lower part 12 of the body, we knit in a tubular as illustrated in FIG. 9 by reducing the width by means of the transfer jacks 4. The reduction is carried out with a needle or alternatively with several needles at the same time as illustrated in FIG. 10.

Then, to knit the intermediate part 13 of the body body, knit in tubular with increase in the width of the panels, the increase being able to be carried out by means of a needle at the same time using the transfer jacks 4 , as illustrated in FIG. 11, or alternatively by means of several needles at the same time as illustrated in FIG. 12.

The decreases are carried out in the upper part 14 of the body of the body by means of the transfer jacks 4, of a single needle or of several needles at the same time, in a manner analogous to that which is illustrated in FIGS. 9 and 10.

In the upper part 14 of the body, knit in arrows so as to mark the chest, as illustrated in FIG. 13.

In the example of embodiment described, the body 10 comprises a front neck 15 and a back neck 16 whose respective bases 17 and 18 are knitted horizontally, which makes it possible to obtain round necks.

In order to achieve the finishing point of the base 18 of the back neck 16, we start by releasing one needle out of two from the front needle bed 1 by means of the transfer jacks 4, by transferring each stitch to the adjacent needle. The mesh which is transferred is not assembled with the mesh already waiting on the needle thanks to the holding transfer device described above.

FIG. 14 illustrates the operation of transferring one stitch out of two of the front needle bed 1 and, in FIG. 15, the situation where one needle out of two of the front needle bed 1 is free, the other needles comprising two pending mesh, not assembled. The next step is to knit a few rows of stitches on the back panel in rough garter stitch, as shown in Figures 16 and 17.

These few rows of knits thus knitted prevent the collar from rolling.

We then knit the finishing point using a chain as illustrated in Figure 18.

The increases in the neckline and the decreases in the armholes are carried out by means of the transfer jacks 4, by moving a stitch to at a time, as illustrated in FIG. 19, or several meshes, as illustrated in FIG. 20.

To make the base 17 of the neckline of the front 15, knit in planed garter stitch a few rows of stitches under it, as illustrated in Figure 21. We then knit the finishing stitch using a chain stitch classic as illustrated in figure 22.

The decreases in the armholes 19 are effected by means of the transfer jacks 4 of one needle at a time, as illustrated in FIG. 23, or of several needles at the same time, as illustrated in FIG. 24. To assemble the panels front and back at the top of the suspenders, there is knitted on each strap, a chain stitch 20 facing the inside of the body, by means of a knitting process illustrated diagrammatically in FIG. 25.

This process involves knitting two needles and then transferring the selvedge stitch to the opposite needle bed. Of course, the invention is not limited to the embodiment which has just been described.

It is possible in particular to knit by means of the process which has just been described a bodysuit comprising all types of neck shapes, in particular a bodysuit comprising a front neck deeper than the back neck, or even V necks on the front or the back, such as those illustrated in Figures 26 to 29.

Claims

1. Method for knitting an article such as a bodysuit, of the type in which a knitting loom comprising a trolley, a front bed (1) and a straight back bed (2) is used to knit the article , these needle beds comprising needles (3) actuated by the passage of the carriage and capable of riding, the knitting loom comprising, in addition, a first auxiliary needle bed comprising plates (5) making it possible to cover the thread of one of the needle beds ( 1; 2) as the carriage moves, and a second auxiliary needle bed comprising jacks (4) making it possible to receive stitches for transfer from one needle to another needle located on the same needle bed, method characterized in that the article is knitted with all needles by means of such a loom, the first auxiliary needle bed being used to cover the thread used for knitting the lower part of the front panel during knitting on the part ie lower of the back panel, the second auxiliary needle bed being used to increase or decrease the width of the front and / or back panels during knitting.

2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that one uses needles (3) capable of keeping two stitches pending without assembling them and that one knits a finishing point at the base (17; 18) of the neckline of the front (15) or of the back (16) by involving the following steps: a) on the needle bed opposite to that to knit the finishing stitch, one needle is released on two by transferring the stitch it contains on the adjacent needle by means of the second auxiliary needle bed, the stitches thus transferred being kept pending without being assembled with the stitches already present on the needles on which the transfer is carried out, b) knit, in garter stitch, a few rows of stitches in the area below the finishing stitch, and c) after knitting these few rows, knit the finishing stitch.

3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the front panel is knitted in arrows so as to mark the chest.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one makes decreases and increases by simultaneous transfer of several meshes.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the front and back panels are assembled at the top of each strap by a chain (20) facing inwards.

6. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that one knits the chain by transferring a selvedge stitch of a needle bed on the opposite needle bed after the two head needles.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one carries out a vanisage of the front panel in the crotch region.

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one carries out the decreases at the armholes and the neckline of the front by implementing a displacement of the thread guides between the falls.

9. Body characterized in that it is knitted according to a process as defined in any one of the preceding claims.