EP1212036A1

EP1212036A1 - Combinations of active agents, said combinations consisting of surface-active citric acid esters and host-guest complexes of cyclodextrins and retinoids, as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations with a content of said mixtures

Info

Publication number: EP1212036A1
Application number: EP00962463A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Thomas Raschke; Urte Maerker; Claudius Rapp
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 1999-09-13
Filing date: 2000-09-09
Publication date: 2002-06-12
Also published as: WO2001019332A1; US20030012801A1; DE19943678A1

Abstract

The invention relates to combinations of (a) one or more partially neutralised esters of monoglycerides and/or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid and (b) host-guest complexes of cyclodextrins and one or more retinoids, especially retinol.

Description

description

Active ingredient combinations of surface-active citric acid esters and inclusion compounds of cyclodextrins and retinoids as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such mixtures

The present invention relates to active compound combinations of surfactants Citronensäureestem and inclusion compounds of cyclodextrins and retinoids, as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations with a content of such mixtures as well as the use of surfactants Citronensäureestem for stabilizing retinoids and ^'inclusion compounds of cyclodextrins and retinoids against chemical degradation reactions, in particular photochemical degradation reactions and / or oxidation-related degradation reactions.

In addition, the invention relates to synergistic mixtures of retinoids and surface-active substances as well as cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such mixtures. The present invention preferably relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the constituents of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

Accordingly, in preferred embodiments, the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive skin, as well as very particularly in the foreground of skin that has aged or aged due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and that Use of such active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care. As the largest human organ, the human skin performs numerous vital functions. With an average surface area of around 2 m ² in adults, it has an outstanding role as a protective and sensory organ. The task of this organ is to convey and ward off mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. It also has an important role as a regulatory and target organ in human metabolism.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood to strengthen or restore the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) and its horny layer to support their natural regeneration capacity in the event of damage.

If the barrier properties of the skin are disturbed, this can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to microorganisms and, as a result, to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

The chronological skin aging is e.g. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

a) dryness, roughness and formation of wrinkles due to dryness, b) itching and c) reduced lipid replenishment by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulative For example, accelerate or supplement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and Dennis, the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin occur in particular due to exogenous factors, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis); e) flaccidity and wrinkling; f) local hyper-, hypo- and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

The present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage caused by light aging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. However, their impact on structural damage is limited in scope. In addition, there are considerable difficulties in product development to sufficiently stabilize the active ingredients against oxidative decay. The use of products containing vitamin A acid often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations, which in turn reduces their effectiveness.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the constituents of cosmetic preparations from harmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin-care cosmetic or dermatological preparations. In particular, the invention also relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing such antioxidants. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as, for example, the skin aging tion, especially skin aging caused by oxidative processes

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active substances and preparations containing such active substances for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses

In a further advantageous embodiment, the present invention relates to combinations of active substances and preparations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, they cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight

To protect against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known which are derivatives of 3-benzyl camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have filter substances available, since its rays can cause reactions in photosensitive skin. It has been proven that UVA radiation damages the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue cause what causes the skin to age prematurely and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation

To protect against UVA rays, certain derivatives of the Dibenzoylmethans used, the photostability (Int J Cosm Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not sufficient

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products intervene in the skin metabolism

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Undefined radical photoproducts, which are formed in the skin itself, can show uncontrolled subsequent reactions due to their high reactivity.But also Siπguletts oxygen, a non-radically excited state of the oxygen molecule can UV radiation also gives rise to short-lived epoxies and many other singlet oxygen, for example, is characterized by increased reactivity compared to the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state). However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule

Furthermore, UV radiation pays for ionizing radiation. There is also a risk that ionic species will also develop under UV exposure, which in turn can then oxidatively intervene in the biochemical processes

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative effect, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also falls far short of the hoped-for effect

The object of the invention was therefore also to create cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active substances and preparations and light protection formulations which are used for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD

Other names for polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other names, as they are described in the literature (e.g. BA Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, S 2)

Erythematosis Symptoms of the skin also appear as side effects of certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash in the appearance of acne is usually more or less reddened

Antioxidants are mainly used as protective substances against the spoilage of the preparations containing them. However, it is known that undesirable oxidation processes can also occur in human and deep skin. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury" in "Oxidative Stress in Dermatology", p 323 ff (Marcel Decker Ine, New York, Basel, Hong Kong, editor Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California) , oxidative damage to the skin and its closer causes are listed

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations

Although some antioxidants and free radical scavengers are known, it has already been proposed in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as from numerous other documents, to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidative action, in light protection formulations, but the effect achieved here also remains far behind the hoped back

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions.These are generally understood to be a heterogeneous system of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.The one is in the form of droplets (dispere or internal phase), while the other liquid is one Continuous (coherent or inner phase) forms More rare forms of administration are multiple emulsions, i.e. those which contain drops of another dispersed phase in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase, for example BW / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions Recent findings have recently led to a better understanding of practice-relevant cosmetic emulsions. It is assumed that the emulsifier mixtures used in excess form lamellar liquid-stable phases or crystalline gel phases. In the gel network theory, stability and physicochemical properties of such emulsions are attributed to the formation of visco-elastic gel networks

If the two liquids are water and 01 and there are oil droplets in finely divided form in water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is through the water is shaped A water-ιπ-01 emulsion (W / 0 emulsion, eg butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by 01

In order to be able to guarantee the metastability of emulsions, surface-active substances, i.e. emulsifiers, are generally necessary. In general, the use of conventional cosmetic emulsifiers is completely harmless.However, emulsifiers, like ultimately any chemical substance, can cause allergic reactions or reactions based on hypersensitivity of the user in individual cases It is known that in certain particularly sensitive people, certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers and simultaneous exposure to sunlight

It is possible to prepare emulsifier-free preparations which, for example, have oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, similar to an O / W emulsion. A prerequisite for this may be that the continuous aqueous phase has a gel structure which stabilizes the dispersed phase and other circumstances more. Such systems are occasionally used Hydrodispersions or oleodispersions called, depending on which is the disperse and which is the continuous phase

However, it is neither necessary nor possible for cosmetic galenics to completely dispense with emulsifiers, especially since there is a certain selection of particularly mild emulsifiers.However, there is a lack of the prior art in a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which then also milder the range of applications accordingly and skin-compatible cosmetic preparations was significantly broadened It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations with excellent skin-care properties

It was surprising, however, and unforeseeable for those skilled in the art, that combinations of

(a) one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid

(b) Inclusion compounds of cyclodextrins and one or more retinoids, in particular retinol, leads to preparations which are stable to chemical degradation reactions, in particular photochemical degradation reactions and / or oxidation-related degradation reactions, increases the bioavailability of the retionoid (s), their effectiveness increases in a synergistic manner and thus the Disadvantages of the prior art remedies

EP 867 175 describes the use of stabilized retinol encapsulated in γ-cyclodextins in cosmetics. EP 392 608 B1 describes solid consumer product compositions with retinol in cyclodextins with a small particle diameter (also US Pat. No. 5,543,157). US Pat. Nos. 5,851, 538 and 5,145,675 describe the encapsulation of retinoids in so-called microsponges made of synthetic polymers with improved stability and reduced imitation is described US Pat. No. 5,855,826 describes the encapsulation of retiol in natural polymers (eg collagen, chitin gelatin)

However, these documents could not pave the way to the present invention

The group of the retinoids advantageous according to the invention also includes all cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically acceptable retinoids, including retinol and its esters, retinais and retinoic acid and its esters

Retinol is characterized by the following structure

Retinol (also: axerophthol; [3,7-dimethyl-9- (2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl) -2,4,6,8-nonatetraen-1-ol) is synonymous with vitamin A. - | , is also sometimes referred to analogously to the derivatives retin-1-carboxylic acid (vitamin A acid, retinoic acid, tretinoin) and their esters or retin-1-al (vitamin A aldehyde) vitamin A alcohol.

Retinol esters, either alone or with one another or in combination with unesterified retinol, can also be used equally advantageously in the active compound combinations according to the invention. The retinol esters according to the invention preferably have the structure

where X preferably represents a branched or unbranched alkanoyl or alkenoyl radical of 1 to 25 carbon atoms. Retinol palmitate (= retinyl palmitate) is preferably chosen as the retinol ester.

Retinal is by structure

characterized. Retinal [vitamin A1 aldehyde, 3,7-dimethyl-9- (2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl) -2,4,6,8-nonatetraenalj is most stable in its all-trans form , The retinal, formerly known as retinen, forms the visual pigments rhodopsin and iodopsin as well as the bacteriorhodopsin, which performs other functions. Retinal arises from the oxidative cleavage of carotene.

Retinoic acid [vitamin A acid, all-trans-3,7-dimethyl-9- (2,6,6-trimethyl-1-cyclohexenyl) -2,4,6,8-nonatetraenoic acid] is by structure characterized It is effective in inhibiting taig production in particularly severe acne cases, but has a teratogenic effect. However, the use of retinoic acid or its esters can be advantageous in certain medically indicated cases and is therefore considered "harmless" in such cases

A particularly advantageous partially neutralized ester of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid is glyceryl stearate citrate. Such citric acid esters are available, for example, under the product name "IMWITOR® 370" from the company Huls AG

The total amount of the cyclodextine-encapsulated retinoids used, in particular retinol, is advantageously in the range from 0.0001-10% by weight, preferably 0.005-5.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation

The total amount of the partially neutralized esters of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight %, in particular 1.0% to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

It is advantageous to weight ratios between inclusion compounds of retinoids on the one hand and at least one partially neutralized ester of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid on the other hand in the range from 1 1 to 1 500, preferably 1 10 to 1 to 200, in particular 1 50 to choose

The combination according to the invention of at least one inclusion compound of at least one retinoid and at least one partially neutralized ester of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid is also collectively referred to in the context of this document as “active ingredient according to the invention” or “inventive referred to according to the active ingredient used "or" active ingredient combination used according to the invention "or assigned related terms

Cyclodextins (cycloamyloses, cycloglucans) are known per se in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. These substances are often used for “molecular encapsulation”, ie as a protective coating for sensitive molecules. These are 6, 7, 8 or even more α-1, 4 linked glucose units, the cyclohexaamylose (α-cyclodextin) being distinguished by the structure

distinguished Cycloheptaamylose (ß-Cyclodextπn) is characterized by the structure

out. Cyclooctaamylose (γ-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure

out. Cycloenneaamylose (δ-cyclodextrin) is characterized by its structure out

Furthermore, polar- and non-polar-substituted cyclodextins can be used within the scope of this patent. These preferably but not exclusively include methyl, ethyl and hydroxypropyl cyclodextins

It is advantageous to choose the inclusion compound or compounds of retinoids, in particular retinol in cyclodextrins, from those substances as are described in EP 867 175

The active compound combinations according to the invention can be incorporated without problems into conventional cosmetic preparations, advantageously light protection preparations, but also, if desired, other preparations, for example pharmaceutical preparations

When the active ingredient used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention is used, it is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages of signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots telangiectasia) and / or the appendages of the skin, of environmental ones (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-related negative changes in the skin and the

Skin appendages of dry skin from light-related skin damage from pigmentation disorders, from itching, from dry skin conditions and horny layer lesions, from hair loss and for improved hair growth from inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, topical dermatological agent, possible dermatological agent, vitamins and the invention Preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention also surprisingly serve to calm sensitive or irritated skin to stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, particularly in the case of deficient or hypoactive skin conditions to increase cell renewal and Regeneration of the skin to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) for pre- and post-treatment With topical application of laser and abrasion treatments, which serve, for example, to reduce skin wrinkles and scars, in order to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use the active ingredient or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations used according to the invention with an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions There are good reasons to assume that such molecular adducts, in analogy to other molecular adducts of cyclodextrins, follow the following scheme:

In this scheme, which is to be assumed as likely, the cyclodextrin skeletons represent the host molecule and the relevant dibenzoylmethane derivative or cinnamic acid derivative, which are represented here by the circle inside the scheme, the gesture molecule.

On the basis of the calculated molar ratios, active ingredient combinations are also available according to the invention, which are to be regarded as molecular adducts with some probability, in which two, possibly even more, identical or different guest molecules, which are represented here by circles in the interior of the scheme, as it were in a host molecule encapsulated at the molecular level. This is indicated in the diagram below.

Such molecular adducts are preferably formed when the individual substances on which they are based are combined directly, particularly preferably when the combination is carried out using a suitable solvent. Molecular adducts according to the invention consisting of cyclodextins and active substance combinations of cyclodextrins and retinol and / or one or more retinoids can advantageously be obtained, for example, by dissolving cyclodextins in water and adding the retinol or the retinoid. The respective molecular adduct then precipitates out as a solid can be subjected to the usual cleaning and preparation steps

The total amount of retinol and / or other retinoids in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

The total amount of cyclodextins, in particular β-cyclodextins and / or γ-cyclodextins in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations, is advantageously in the range from 0.05 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations

It is particularly advantageous to choose weight ratios of cyclodextrins to retinol and / or other retinoids such as 10 1 to 1 5, preferably as 8 1 to 1 2, particularly preferably as 5 1 to 1 1

Active substance combinations which have the following molar ratios are particularly advantageous as molecular adducts of cyclodextines and retinol and / or other retinoids

1 mol of α-cyclodextine 1 mol of retinol or other retinoid

1 mol ß-Cyclodextπn 1 mol retinol or other retinoid

1 mol γ-cyclodextin 1 mol retinol or other retinoid

2 mol of α-cyclodextine 1 mol of retinol or other retinoid 2 mol of β-cyclodextine 1 mol of retinol or other retinoid mol of γ-cyclodextine 1 mol of retinol or other retinoid

1 mol of α-cyclodextine 2 mol of retinol and / or other retinoid 1 mol of β-cyclodextine 2 mol of retinol and / or other retinoid 1 mol of γ-cyclodextine 2 mol of retinol and / or other retinoid It was therefore not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the active substance combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention, those containing better act as an antioxidant, act better as radical scavengers, better prevent the binding of harmful photoproducts to lipids, DNA and proteins work better against skin aging protect the skin against photoreactions better prevent inflammatory reactions than the active substances, combinations of active substances and preparations of the prior art. Furthermore, it was not to be expected that the combinations of active substances used according to the invention would have greater stability in cosmetic or dermatological preparations than the individually used active substances, which in particular retinoids betπfft

According to the invention, therefore, are the use of active ingredient combinations of retinoids and at least one partially neutralized ester of monoglycendes and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid as an antioxidant, and their use for combating and / or prophylaxis of skin aging and inflammatory reactions caused by oxidative stress

The use of active substance combinations of retinoids and at least one partially neutralized ester of monoglycends and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid to combat and / or prophylaxis of oxidative stress is also regarded as a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention

According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.1% to 20% by weight. , preferably 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, in total particularly 1.0-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, of active compound combinations used according to the invention

It is preferred according to the invention to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents to the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology or medical galenics. By complexing interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others, undesired chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations can be prevented, for example

Complexing agents, in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms which, if one or more polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, are metalacides, represent chelates in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination point on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are carried out Formation of complexes via a metal atom or ion closed to form rings The number of bound ligands depends on the coordination number of the central metal. The prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors

The complexing agent or complexing agents can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their Anions, Nitπlotπessigsaure (NTA) and their anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotπesssigsaure (HOEDTA) and their anions, Diethylenaminopentaessigsaure (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-Dιamιnocyclohexantetraessιgsaure (CDTA) and their anions)

According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.05-2.0% by weight. %, based on the total weight of the preparations For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics

According to the invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations can be in various forms. It is particularly advantageous if they are an emulsion or microemulsion of the oil-in-water (O / W) type

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to insert active substance combinations used according to the invention into aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair

According to the invention, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other conventional components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone solvents

In particular, active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also be combined with other antioxidants and / or radical scavengers

Such antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg Anseπn), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, liponic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid) aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin glutathione cysteine cystine cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-oleoleyl, Cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathione sulfoximine) in very low contractual dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chiators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acid, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferπn), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin and EDTA, EGTA their denvates, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-oleic acid, oleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives ( Vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives (eg α-glycosyl rutin), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate and related compounds n, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzsaure, nordihydroguajaretsaure, Tπhydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivative ( their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.025-20% by weight, in particular 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

If ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives represent the additional antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the additional antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation According to the invention, emulsions are advantageous and contain, for example, the fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier as is customarily used for such a type of formulation

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances mineralols, mineral waxes

Oils, such as Tπglyceπde the Capπn- or the caprylic acid, also natural oils such as castor oil,

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or Glycene, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkane acids with a low C number or with fatty acids, alkyl benzoates,

Siliconols such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or epodispersions within the meaning of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such esterols can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl mypstat, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmate, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl-2-ethyl-ethyl-ethyl Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat and so on e synthetic semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. jojobaol

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone alcohols, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid glycides, especially the methyl esters saturated and / or unsaturated, comparable branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid glycides can for example advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil , Palmol, coconut oil, palm kernoi and the like

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotπdecylisononaπoat, isoeicosan, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₂ -i ₅ -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capnic acid triglycend, dicaprylyl ether

Mixtures of C ₂ -i ₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _2- i5 alkyl benzoate and isotndecy sononanoate and mixtures of C ₂ ₁ 5-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotπdecylisononanoate are particularly advantageous

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffinol, squalane and squalene can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicon alcohols or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or silicon alcohols

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotπsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotπdecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycene, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycene and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be chosen from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysacchides or their derivatives, eg hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or from the group of the so-called Pemule ne, for example Pemulenes of types TR-1, TR-2, each individually or in combination

In particular, mixtures of the solvents mentioned above are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water can be a further constituent

Emulsions according to the invention advantageously contain, for example, the fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances mentioned, and also water and, if appropriate, one or more further emulsifiers, as are customarily used

Preparations as emulsions according to the invention optionally particularly advantageously contain one or more additional O / V emulsifiers. Such O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of the polyethoxy-hardened or polypropoxylated or polyethoxy-hardened and polypropoxylated products, for example the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of ethoxy Erten wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R \ the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (O) -R \ the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates

R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R ", the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of the propoxylated sorbitan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula

R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) 0-) _n -CH ₂ -C00H of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - 0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-0-X _n -Y _m -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

R-0-X _n -Y _m -R ', the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5-15. 5, provided the O / W emuigators have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth) .

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethyleneglycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate , Polyethylene glycol (20) oleate Natπumlaureth-11-carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesteryl endevate. Polyethylene glycol (25) soy sterol has also been preserved

The polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethyleπglycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl-glycolate, polyethylene glycol (20) glycolate, glycolate (20) glyceryl-isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose

It is also advantageous to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan

However, preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions optionally also advantageously comprise one or more additional W / O emulsifiers. Such advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used as fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycene esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, diglycene nests of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycene ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, diglyce ether, saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C- Atoms, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, galv refined and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate monoisostearate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Digiyceryl-, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycolmonocaprylat, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan, Sorbitanmo-, Sorbitanmonocapryiat, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyial alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate. Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to prepare cosmetic preparations To provide that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-

benzylidenecamphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester,

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

2,4,6-Tπanιlιno- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-tπazιn

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example

Salts of 2-Phenylbenzιmιdazol-5-sulfonic acid such as its Natπum-, potassium or her

Tπethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts,

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzyl camphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyl-methyl-benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyl-methyl methyl) sulfonic acid and their

Salts and the 1, 4-dι (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylιdenmethyl) benzene and its salts

(the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding one

Sodium, potassium or Tπethanolammonium salt), also referred to as benzene-1, 4-dι (2-oxo-3-bornylιdenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of the UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation It may also be advantageous to combine the active compound combinations used according to the invention with UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of di-benzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) ) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione These combinations or preparations containing these combinations are also OBJECT OF THE INVENTION The amounts used for the UVB combination can be used

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations according to the invention with at least one UVA filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of active ingredient combinations according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant, or the use of a combination of active ingredients according to the invention with at least one UVA filter and at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, Cers and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Pigments based on titanium dioxide are particularly preferred

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations which contain this combination are also the subject of the invention. The amounts mentioned for the above combinations can be used

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations for protecting the hair from UV rays according to the invention are, for example, shampooing agents! Preparations which are used when hair is being rinsed before or after shampooing, before or after permanent wave treatment, before or after dyeing or decoloring the hair, for preparations for blow-drying or pickling the hair, for coloring or decolouring in order to and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or permanent waving agent

The cosmetic and dermatological agents contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this type of hair care and hair treatment preparations. Auxiliaries are preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fatty oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides , Perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to dye the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself, electrophoresis, substances for greasing the hair

Electrolytes for the purposes of the present invention are understood to mean water-soluble alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are pharmaceutically or cosmetically harmless distinguish

According to the invention, the anions are preferably selected from the group consisting of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cychmic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates

Cosmetic preparations which are a skin cleansing agent or shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance, or else mixtures of such substances, the active compound combinations according to the invention in the aqueous medium and auxiliaries, as are customarily used for them Surface-active substance or the mixtures of these substances can be present in the shampoo in a concentration of between 1% and 50% by weight

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparations are in the form of a lotion, which is rinsed out and, for example, before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing shells, before or after the permanent wave treatment, these are, for example, aqueous or water-alcoholic solutions which may contain surface-active substances, the concentration of which is between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight

A cosmetic preparation in the form of a lotion that is not rinsed out, in particular a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion used for blow-drying the hair, a styling and treatment lotion, is generally an aqueous, alcoholic or water-alcoholic solution and contains at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof, as well as active ingredient combinations used according to the invention in effective concentration. The amount of the polymers used is, for example, between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair can be in the form of gels, which, in addition to an effective content of active ingredients according to the invention and the solvents usually used for them, preferably water, and also organic thickeners, for example gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably Methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, for example aluminum silicates such as bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, are contained in the gel, for example in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight

The amount of active ingredient according to the invention in an agent intended for the hair is preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents or water-free or water-free cleaning agent concentrates according to the invention intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, for example fatty acid salts of sodium

Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates sulfoacetate

sulfobetaines

sarcosinates

amidosulphobetaines

sulfosuccinates

sulfosuccinic

alkyl ether

Protein-fatty acid condensates

Alkyl betaines and amido betaines

fatty acid

Polyglycol ether derivatives

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or solid form. In addition to active ingredient combinations used according to the invention, they preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used for this. The surface-active substance can be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

In addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention, cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary according to the invention, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1% by weight and 94% by weight.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the compositions according to the invention contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, active substances and the like , The present invention also includes a cosmetic process for protecting the skin and hair from oxidative or photooxidative processes, which is characterized in that a cosmetic agent which contains an effective concentration of active compound combinations used according to the invention is applied to the skin in sufficient amounts or Hair.

The amount of active compound combinations used according to the invention in these preparations is preferably 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, in particular 1.0-0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The invention also relates to the process for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which is characterized in that active ingredient combinations according to the invention are incorporated into cosmetic and dermatological formulations in a manner known per se.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. The retinol-γ-cyclodextrin complex is available according to the disclosure in EP 867 175.

Example 1 (O / W cream):

Wt .-%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00

Stearyl alcohol 5.00

Caprylic acid / Capric acid triglycerides 4.00

Octyldodecanol 5.00

Glycerin 3.00

Carbomer 0.10

Retinol (γ-cyclodextrin complex) 0.10

BHT 0.05

Tocopherol 0.02 EDTA 0.20

Sodium hydroxide q.s.

Conservation q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Water, demineralized ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 6.0

Example 2 (O / W cream):

Wt%

Glyceryl stearate citrate 3.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00

Paraffinol 2.00

Caprylic acid / Capπnsauretπglyceπde 4.00

Dicaprylyl ether 2.00

Xanthan gum 0.10

Citric acid 0.10

Sodium citrate 0.20

Retinol (γ-cyclodextine complex) 0.05

Glycerin 3.00

Conservation q p

Perfume q.s

Water ad 100.00 pH adjusted to 5.5

Claims

claims

1 combinations of

(b) Inclusion compounds of cyclodextrins and one or more retinoids, especially retinol

2 combinations according to claim 1, characterized in that the glyceryl stearate citrate is chosen as partially neutralized ester of monoglycends and / or diglycides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid

3 combinations according to claim 1, characterized in that a retinol-γ-cyciodextπn complex is chosen as inclusion compounds of cyclodextents and one or more retinoids

4 Cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsions containing combinations according to one of claims 1-3

5 OI-water emulsions according to claim 4, characterized in that the or the partially neutralized esters of monoglycends and / or diglycides saturated fatty acids with citric acid in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, in particular 1.0-5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present