EP1207227A1 - Method and device for producing coloured effects on fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The procedure consists of attaching a whole length of fabric (T) to a tubular frame (1) at different levels offset in height relative to one another and in an ordered or random manner, and subjecting it to operations such as twisting at different points to produce batik shading effects. The supporting frame has a series of parallel lockable bars with an adjustable spacing, mounted on uprights to give a generally parallelepiped structure, and designed to be suspended over a dye bath in a vat (9) and immersed to the required depth. The fabric is in tube form, supported with or without twisting and attached to bars at different heights and in the same or different planes.

Description

The invention relates to the technical sector of the processes of dyes of a fabric, in particular silk, to obtain a plurality of gradations of different colors with varying visual effects.

To try to obtain these results, we can implement a manual method which relates to craftsmanship. Generally, the fabric, in the state natural, most often off-white, is wet, while an operator apply, by any means, such as a mitt, different colors to get a gradient. The results obtained are not always satisfactory and very random since they depend directly on the appreciation and operator know-how. Finally, the fabric thus treated is at a cost of comes back very high.

To remedy this drawback, a solution has been proposed. advantageous technique which emerges from the teaching of the FR patent 2,682,130 of which the applicant is also the holder. This patent discloses a process for continuously obtaining, in a way industrial, a fabric with effects of color gradation.

The fabric is hung on a support frame, so as to constitute a plurality of panels arranged substantially in accordion. The entire support frame with the fabric is then soaked over a certain height, for a determined time, in a tank containing a dye. The assembly is then removed to add another dye. The entire framework with the fabric is then soaked over all or part of its height, then removed again. Then rotated successively, of a determined angular value, the entire framework with the fabric that is soaked in the bath, first to a certain height, then to its total height. At each angular orientation and at each soaking, different dyes are added to the bath.
The support frame is in the form of an open parallelepiped tubular frame which has any arrangement to allow the attachment of the fabric constituting a succession of folds between the two edges.

From this basic concept, the invention proposes to be able to treat the fabric in its entire length and no longer from edge to edge, with the objective of obtaining a plurality of color effects and effects visuals of the shaded waterfall type, shaded batik type, and different combinations.

• on dispose une longueur de tissu sur un support présentant des agencements pour positionner à volonté ce tissu selon différents niveaux décalés en hauteur, d'une manière ordonnée ou non, dans un même plan ou selon des plans différents, lesdits niveaux étant réalisés sur la longueur du tissu;
• on mouille ou non, en totalité ou en partie, le tissu ;
• on trempe successivement l'ensemble du support et du tissu dans des bains de différentes couleurs et selon différentes hauteurs ;
• pour chacun des trempages et en fonction des effets de coloris recherchés, on oriente angulairement le support.

To solve such a problem, a method has been designed and developed according to which:

• there is a length of fabric on a support having arrangements for positioning this fabric at will according to different levels offset in height, in an ordered manner or not, in the same plane or according to different planes, said levels being produced along the length fabric;
• the fabric is wetted or not, in whole or in part;
• the entire support and the fabric are successively dipped in baths of different colors and at different heights;
• for each soaking and depending on the desired color effects, the support is angularly oriented.

To solve the problem of obtaining color gradients with reserve and contrast effects, at the level of the shifts in height of the fabric, it is subjected to one or more operations suitable for create one or more color reserves to obtain effects known as the name of shadowy batik.

To obtain other visual effects, in terms of height, the fabric is subjected, in whole or in part, to one or more effects of torsion.

For the implementation of the method, in order to obtain effects of gradations of colors in various and varied combinations, the means of implementation include at least one but generally several tubular frames each having, between two parallel sides, spaced apart bars suitable for supporting the fabric, said frames being subject to means for keeping them spaced apart in height.

To solve the problem of increasing the effects obtained, the frames are kept high apart by means, with the ability to adjustment to vary their spacing at will, and blocking in the chosen position.

Advantageously, each frame is of general shape quadrangular and has, at each of its angles, arrangements of mounting and coupling to vertical elements with capacity sliding and locking in adjustable position, all different frames and vertical elements constituting a support structure of form general parallelepiped. The bars of each of the frames are arranged parallel to each other and relative to the longitudinal sides of the frames which are all identical.

Given the embodiment of the means for the implementation work of the various process steps according to the invention, the fabric, arranged substantially in gut, is supported and / or wound with or without effect twist, on any of the bars and / or any of the sides longitudinal of at least two frames offset in height, by selecting bars and / or sides arranged, in the same plane or according to plans different.

To solve the problem posed of ensuring the different soaking of the entire fabric and according to various angular orientations, the structure support cooperates with means capable of ensuring its suspension above a tank receiving the colored bath, while allowing its introduction and its removal in a desired angular orientation corresponding to a soaking height depending on the color bath.

• la figure 1 est une vue en perspective d'une forme de réalisation de la structure support selon les caractéristiques de l'invention ;
• la figure 2 est une vue en perspective de la structure équipée du tissu avant trempage et selon un exemple de positionnement ;
• les figures 3, 4, 5 et 6 sont des vues de face à caractère schématique correspondant à la figure 2 et montrant un exemple des différentes phases de trempage ;
• la figure 7 est une vue en perspective correspondant à la figure 2 et après trempage selon les figures 3, 4, 5 et 6 ; ;
• les figures 8, 9, 10 et 11 sont des vues en perspective à caractère schématique montrant différents exemples nullement limitatifs de traitements possibles du tissu pour obtenir des effets de couleurs avec effets de dégradés et autres effets visuels résultant de la mise en oeuvre du procédé et des moyens selon l'invention.

The invention is set out below in more detail with the aid of the figures of the appended drawings in which:

• Figure 1 is a perspective view of an embodiment of the support structure according to the features of the invention;
• Figure 2 is a perspective view of the structure equipped with the fabric before soaking and according to an example of positioning;
• Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 are schematic front views corresponding to Figure 2 and showing an example of the different dipping phases;
• Figure 7 is a perspective view corresponding to Figure 2 and after dipping according to Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6; ;
• FIGS. 8, 9, 10 and 11 are schematic perspective views showing various examples which are in no way limitative of possible treatments of the fabric to obtain color effects with gradient effects and other visual effects resulting from the implementation of the method and means according to the invention.

As will be indicated in the following description, the fabric, several meters long, is pre-assembled with fittings a support frame (1). The arrangements of the structure (1) and the positioning of the tissue (T) relative to said framework, are determined to give effects of colors, gradations, shades of colors, the most diverse visual combinations possible, considered according to the direction of the length of the fabric.

The framework (1) has at least two levels offset in height (A and B) such as for example 6 levels, namely (A, B, C, D, E, F), being given, of course, that this number is given as an indication in no way limiting. The different levels (A, B, C, D, E, F) are arranged in parallel between them, with spacing adjustment and locking capacity position, as will be indicated in the following description.

According to a simplified version, each level consists of a single bar (1a) connected to each of its ends by uprights (2) and (3). However, in a preferred manner, each of the levels (A, B, C, D, E, F) consists of a horizontal frame of generally rectangular shape having two lateral sides (1a) and (1b) joined to each of the ends by two transverse sides (1c) and (1d). In addition, bars (4) are connected to the transverse sides (1c) and (1d) by being arranged parallel to the lateral sides (1a) and (1b), and spaced at regular or irregular intervals.
The angles of each of the horizontal frames (1a-1b-1c-1d) of each of the levels (A, B, C, D, E, F) are connected to the uprights (2) and (3) for the sides (1a) , and uprights (5) and (6) for the sides (1b). It therefore appears, after mounting the different frames with respect to the four uprights (2), (3), (5) and (6), that an open structure of generally parallelepipedal shape is obtained having, for example, six horizontal frames installed and braced by the uprights (2), (3), (5) and (6).

The different horizontal frames (1a-1b-1c-1d) are mounted on the uprights (2), (3), (5) and (6) being separated at intervals (e) constant or not. Advantageously, the frames (1a-1b-1c-1d) are mounted relative to the uprights (2), (3), (5) and (6) with capacity for height adjustment and locking in position desired, in order to vary at will their spacing (e).
In the example illustrated, the different uprights (2), (3), (5) and (6) are constituted by threaded rods freely engaged in openings (1e) formed at each of the connection angles of the different sides (1a ), (1b), (1c) and (1d) of each of the frames. A nut (7) and lock nut (8) system mounted on each of the threaded rods, ensures the height adjustment of each frame and its locking in the desired position.
Obviously, this embodiment which has the advantage of being very simplified, should not be considered as limiting.

Given the design of the support frame (1), it is possible to have a length of fabric (T) according to different levels offset in height, in an orderly fashion or not, in the same plane or according to different planes, this over the entire length of the fabric. The fabric (T) is supported at any places by the sides (1a) and / or (1b) of each or some of the frames, corresponding to any of the levels, in combination or not with the intermediate bars (4 ).
After placing the fabric (T) in combination with certain parts of the support frame, the latter is soaked in baths of different colors, at different heights. Note that, for each soaking, depending on the desired color effects, the support assembly can be oriented angularly. Likewise, prior to soaking in the color baths, the fabric may be wholly or partly wet.

The support structure (1) cooperates with means capable of ensuring its suspension above a tank (9) receiving color baths in sight of its introduction and withdrawal in an angular orientation desired. For example, the framework (1) cooperates with means attachment type pulley and cable allowing, at will, its introduction and its removal in the different tanks.

Given the characteristics underlying the invention, it is possible to position the fabric (T) in many ways relative to supporting elements of the structure, to obtain, after successive soaking, according to different heights in the color baths very visual effects varied. Illustrative examples have been illustrated in the figures of the drawings. in no way limiting, the positioning of the fabric relative to the framework support (1).

In the example of FIGS. 3, 4, 5 and 6, the fabric is subjected to four dye baths, for example green, yellow, orange and pink. In the drawings, green is represented by crosses, yellow by dots, orange by circles and pink by lines.
The support frame (1) is hung on the side (Y) and dipped from the side (X) in the bath of yellow dye, for example over half of its height, according to FIG. 3. Still under the same conditions, that is to say from the side (X), the entire structure is immersed in a bath of green dye which must therefore cover the yellow (Figure 4).

The frame (1) is then turned over while hanging on the side (X) to be soaked from the side (Y) in an orange bath and on half its height (Figure 5). Under the same conditions, all of the framework is then soaked over a quarter of its height in a bath of pink dye to cover the orange dye (Figure 6). We thus obtain special visual effects (Figure 7).

• du nombre de niveaux (A, B, C, D, E, F, ...) utilisés ;
• de l'écartement entre chaque niveau (A, B, C, D, E, F) ;
• du passage du tissu conditionné sous forme de boyau plus ou moins serré ou ouvert par rapport aux différents côtés ou barres et selon les niveaux considérés ;
• du nombre de barres utilisées ;
• de la teinture uniforme ou des dégradés de couleurs ;
• du retournement ou non de la structure ;
• de la tension du tissu ;
• des zones de torsion du tissu réalisées lors du positionnement.

From this basic design, many visual effects can be obtained, depending in particular on:

• the number of levels (A, B, C, D, E, F, ...) used;
• the spacing between each level (A, B, C, D, E, F);
• the passage of the conditioned fabric in the form of a hose more or less tight or open with respect to the different sides or bars and according to the levels considered;
• the number of bars used;
• uniform dye or color gradations;
• whether the structure is turned over or not;
• tissue tension;
• torsion zones of the fabric produced during positioning.

FIG. 8 shows another example of application of the method for the simultaneously processing two pieces of fabric using five levels and three colors (green, yellow, pink for example).

It is also possible to obtain a shaded batik, technical consisting in making a dye in gradations of colors with known effects by a person skilled in the art, under the name "TYE AND LYE". according to the example of figure 9, the fabric is hung on the upper level (point A1) to the lower level (point B1), then again to the upper level (point A2) and again brought down to the lower level (point B2), and so right now. The fabric can be more or less stretched and put in gut while being subject to a twisting effect or not depending on the desired effect. Indeed, the more the fabric will be stretched or twisted, the more the reserves obtained and the resulting contrasts will be important.

It is also possible, at each of the intermediate levels, to make one or more small loops by doing one or more turns of a bar to cause additional color reserves. As before, the whole structure being suspended, it is possible to soak it in different baths of different colors in the returning or not.

Many variations in shaded batik can be realized. For example, the fabric can be arranged relative to the support frame horizontally, that is to say between, for example, the sides (1a) and (1b) on a certain level, and vertically, ie between the different sides (la) or (1b). In a horizontal plane, there is no gradient of colors. It is thus possible to put torsion on the hose arranged vertically, that is to say, in FIG. 10, between (C2) and (D1), (D2) and (C3), (C4) and (D3), (D4) and (C5), ...
This results in color reserves. By cons, no twist can be put on the part of the fabric arranged horizontally, that is to say always according to Figure 10, between (C1) and (C2), (D1) and (D2), (C3 ) and (C4), (D3) and (D4), (C5) and (C6), ....., so that there will be no reserve of colors on these parts of fabric. Obviously, the reverse is possible.

Taking into account the reversibility of the support structure and the adjustment of the different levels, the possibilities of visual effects are innumerable. So, for example, the techniques described can be combined, thus allowing to obtain particularly original effects. We return in Figure 11 which shows another embodiment.

Note that the fabric, whatever its positioning on the structure support, with or without twisting effects, color reserves, tension, can be soaked in different baths, statically during a determined time, or in a dynamic way, that is to say subjected to different successive soaking.

It is understood that the invention applies to any type of fabric, such as that warp and weft, mesh, ribbons, without excluding other textiles such as nonwoven, yarns ..., made-up clothes or not.

The advantages are apparent from the description.

Claims (9)

Method for creating color effects on fabric, according to which: a fabric (T) is placed on a support (1); the whole or part of the fabric (T) is wetted or not; the entire support (1) and the fabric (T) are successively dipped in baths of different colors, at different heights; the support (1) is angularly oriented for each of the soaking and as a function of the desired color and / or gradient effects; characterized in that : the fabric is placed on the support (1) along its entire length and according to different levels offset in height, in an orderly manner or not, in the same plane or according to different planes; the fabric is subjected, at the level of the height offset, to one or more operations capable of producing one or more color reserves in order to obtain effects known under the name of "ombré batik". A method according to claim 1, characterized in that at the height shifts the fabric is subjected, in whole or in part, to one or more torsional effects. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fabric is rigidly supported at each of the height offsets. Means for implementing the method according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they comprise a support frame (1) having at least two levels offset in height and capable of receiving, in whole or in part, the fabric. Means according to claim 4, characterized in that the support frame (1) comprises several tubular frames each having, between two parallel sides, spaced bars (4) capable of acting as a support for the fabric, said frames being subjected to means for keeping them spaced apart in height, with adjustment capacity, to vary their spacing at will, and for locking in the chosen position. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that each frame (1) is of generally quadrangular shape and has, at each of its angles, arrangements for mounting and coupling to vertical elements (2, 3, 5 and 6 ) with sliding capacity and locking in adjustable position, all of the different frames (1) and vertical elements constituting a support structure of generally parallelepiped shape. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that the bars (4) of each of the frames are arranged parallel to each other and relative to the longitudinal sides of the frames which are all identical. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that the fabric, arranged substantially in a hose, is supported and / or wound with twisting effect or no, on any of the bars and / or any of the longitudinal sides d '' at least two frames offset in height, by selecting bars and / or sides arranged, in the same plane or according to different planes. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that the support structure cooperates with means capable of ensuring its suspension above a tank receiving the colored bath, while allowing its introduction and withdrawal according to a corresponding desired angular orientation at a soaking height depending on the color bath.

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