EP1131046A2

EP1131046A2 - Utilization of cation-active mixtures

Info

Publication number: EP1131046A2
Application number: EP99971698A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Bettina Jackwerth; Thomas Gassenmeier; Cristina Amela Conesa; Esther Prat Queralt
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Current assignee: BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Priority date: 1998-11-09
Filing date: 1999-10-30
Publication date: 2001-09-12
Also published as: WO2000027344A2; KR20010100994A; WO2000027344A3; DE19851430A1; JP2002529382A; AU1158100A

Abstract

The invention relates to the utilization of cation-active mixtures containing (a) quaternary esters, (b) oil bodies, and (c) fatty alcohols for producing skin cleansing agents and skin care agents. The agents are characterized in that they spread rapidly and are absorbed quickly without leaving any residues.

Description

Use of cationic mixtures

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cationic surfactants and relates to the use of oil-containing cosmetic preparations containing esterquats and fatty alcohols.

State of the art

Cationic esterquat-type surfactants have been used in cosmetics for hair conditioning for some time. Because of their good sensory properties, these substances are also increasingly used in skin cosmetics. Cosmetic emulsions which contain esterquats according to the prior art as softening agents or cationic emulsifiers are, however, not completely satisfactory from an application point of view. For example, consumers criticize the fact that the funds leave an oily residue, should not spread quickly enough and should move in faster.

In this connection, reference is made to German Patent DE-C1 4308794 (Henkel), from which a process for the production of solid ester quats is known, in which the quaternization of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols; these preparations are used as conditioning agents for hair treatment. In DE-C1 4335782 (Henkel) it is also proposed to carry out the quaternization of triethanolamine fatty acid esters in the presence of polyols, for example glycerol, ethylene glycol, partial glycerides, nonionic surfactants and the like, in order to avoid the use of isopropyl alcohol as a flammable solvent.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide oily cosmetic preparations with a content of cationic surfactants of the esterquat type which are distinguished by improved sensory properties and in particular by rapid distribution and rapid, residue-free, rapid absorption. Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of cationic mixtures containing (a) esterquats,

(b) oil body and

(c) fatty alcohols

for the production of skin cleaning and care products.

Surprisingly, it has been found that oily skin cleansing and care products, preferably in emulsion form, which contain ester quats together with fatty alcohols, preferably cetearyl alcohol, give the skin a particularly pleasant feel, leave no residues, spread quickly and absorb quickly.

Esterquats

The term “esterquats” is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known substances which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. In this connection, reference is made to the international patent application WO 91/01295 (Henkel ), according to which triethanolamine is partially esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hypophosphorous acid, air is passed through and then quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or ethylene oxide. Overviews on this topic are, for example, by R.Puchta et al. in Tens.Surf.Det., 30, 186 (1993), M.Brock in Tens.Surf.Det. 30, 394 (1993), R. Lagerman et al. In J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc, 71, 97 (1994) and I.Shapiro in Cosm.Toii. 109, 77 (1994).

The esterquats forming component (a) follow, for example, the formula (I)

R ⁴

I.

[RiCO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH ₂ CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH2θ- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X "(I)

in which R ¹ CO represents an acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ^{4 represents} an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH ₂ CH ₂ O ) _q H group, m, n and p in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. To prepare the quaternized esters, the fatty acids, such as palm fatty acid, coconut fatty acid or tallow fatty acid, and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 become. With regard to the application properties of the ester quats, an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous. The preferred ester quats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical Ci2 / 18 palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40). From an application point of view, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R ¹ CO for a hardened palmacyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ² for R ¹ CO, R ³ for hydrogen, R ⁴ for a Methyl group, m, n and p is 0 and X is methyl sulfate.

Quaternized ester salts of the fatty acids mentioned with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (II) are also suitable as a further group of suitable ester quats.

R ⁴

I.

[R ¹ CO- (OCH2CH2) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH2θ- (CH2CH ₂ 0) _n R2] X- (II)

in which R ¹ CO is an acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ and R ^{5 are,} independently of one another, alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Finally, the third group of suitable ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of the fatty acids mentioned with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines of the formula (III)

[R -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CHCH2θ- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X "(III)

I.

R7

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total represent 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. With regard to the selection of the optimum degree of esterification, the examples given for (I) also apply to the esterquats of the formulas (II) and (III). Oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear Cε-C∑∑-fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Cι ₃ -carboxylic acids with linear C6 come as oil bodies, for example -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear Cβ-C∑∑ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cε-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cβ-Ciβ fatty acids, esters of C6-C ₂₂ -Fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon Substance atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C ₂ 2-fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched Cδ-C∑∑ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons .

Fatty alcohols

Fatty alcohols are understood to be primary, preferably long-chain and linear alcohols which usually follow the formula (IV)

R »OH (IV)

in which R ^{8 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as those obtained in the pressure resolution of natural triglycerides. Cetearyl alcohol is preferably used, a 1: 1 mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol. Furthermore, it is preferred to use mixtures of components (a) and (c) which, due to the production process, are already obtained as industrial mixtures. For this purpose, alkanolamine fatty acid esters are reacted with alkylating agents in the presence of such amounts of fatty alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol, that a weight ratio of ester quat: fatty alcohol of 90:10 to 10:90 and preferably 80:20 to 70:30 or 20:80 to 30:70. The esterification and quaternization can be carried out in a manner known per se, as is described in detail, for example, in the documents DE-C1 4308794 and DE-C1 4335782 (Henkel). The particular advantage of using such mixtures is that they are obtained in solid form and can be dispersed without problems even without heating. Surprisingly, these directly produced binary mixtures are superior in the formulation of the mixture of the individual substances from a sensory point of view.

Cosmetic preparations

As already explained at the beginning, the cosmetic preparations of the present invention are usually emulsions, which can be both W / O and O / W types; multiple emulsions of the W / O / W or O / W / O type are also possible. In a preferred embodiment, the mixtures to be used according to the invention can have the following composition:

(a) 0.1 to 25, preferably 5 to 15% by weight of ester quats,

(b) 0.5 to 90, preferably 5 to 50 wt .-% oil body and

(c) 0.1 to 75, preferably 5 to 50% by weight of fatty alcohols,

with the proviso that the amounts given with water and possibly other ingredients add up to 100% by weight.

Industrial applicability

The preparations obtainable using the mixtures according to the invention, such as, for example, hair treatments, hair conditioners, hair dye emulsions, body cleansing and care products, sunscreen creams, lotions or ointments, and also make-ups and other decorative cosmetic products, can furthermore contain mild surfactants as further auxiliaries and additives , Emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, consistency enhancers, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents, deodorants, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, dyes and perfumes . Typical examples of suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid ethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligogglucobucides, fatty acid amide fatty acids, protein amide fatty acids, protein amide fatty acids, protein amide fatty acids, protein acid amide fatty acids, protein carbamide acids, protein acid amide gluco amide fatty acids, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-ydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(8) Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, butyl glucoside , Lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and (13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with ricinusol are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the middle of which Alkoxyiierungsgrad the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate used in the addition reaction is carried out with ^{"corresponds.} Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known from DE-PS 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations known.

Cβ / is alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylamino propyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβm alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -Sθ3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acyl amino amino propionate and Ci2 / i8 acyl sarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic also come quaternary emulsifiers are considered, those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

In addition to the fatty alcohols, hydroxy-fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids are also suitable as consistency agents. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (for example Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® ( BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryl dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®lJGrünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic Siicon copolymers, such as amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and Dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of Meridiolammonium, dimethyldioxide chloride (Acrylonitrile) with dimethylchloride polyacrylamide (550) polyacrylamide with acrylic acid, 550ml with the environment, 550ml - mide, as described, for example, in FR-A 2252840 and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as, for example, dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as, for example, bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane , cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ- 1 from Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked Polyacryisäuren, acrylamidopropyl - Trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl polymerol and acrylate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / acrylamate / methacrylate / amine / amyl / ammethylate / methacrylate / methacrylate / acrylate / methacrylate / optionally / in question.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates are suitable as deodorant active ingredients. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used in the manufacture of antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)). Under the Locron® brand from Hoechst AG,

Frankfurt / FRG, for example, there is an aluminum chlorohydrate on the market which corresponds to the formula [Al2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H2O and whose use is particularly preferred [cf. J.Pharm.Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, aluminum hydroxyl lactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used. Esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric, Glutarsäuremonoe- methyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, Adipinsäurediethyle- art, malonate and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester. Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective.

Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by Rlochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993). UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP-B1 0693471;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

• esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomenthyl salicylic acid;

• derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-meth-oxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP-A1 0818450;

Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in EP-B1 0694521.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and their salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Ne- In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate are also suitable for this purpose. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilaurylthiodipropionat, Distearylthiodipropionat, Thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, Nuk-Ieoside and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Himinathion in very low) compatible dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) - chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyla - acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, feminic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene , Butylhydroxy-anisole, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and nd its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides , Peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients. Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyol can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, eggiemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbynyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols

Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, blossoms oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labola oil and lavender oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, lavender oil, cycloalginol oil, orangol glycol, orange oil, Muscatal sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate, used alone or in mixtures.

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(1-5) bubble bath, (6) soft cream, (7.9) moisturizing emulsion, (8.10) night cream Table 1

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) • continued

(11) W / O sunscreen, (12-14) W / O sunscreen, (15, 18, 20) O / W sunscreen (16, 17, 19) O / W sunscreen

Claims

claims

1. Use of cationic mixtures containing

(a) esterquats,

(b) oil body and

(c) fatty alcohols

for the production of skin cleaning and care products.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that esterquats of the formula (I) are used,

R ⁴

I.

[R CO- (OCH2CH ₂ ) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH2θ- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X "(I)

in which R ¹ CO represents an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another are hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ^{4 represents} an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH2CH ₂ 0) _q H group, m, n and p in total stand for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q stands for numbers from 1 to 12 and X stands for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that esterquats of the formula (II) are used,

R *

I [RiCO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH ₂ CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH2θ- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X- (II)

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

4. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that esterquats of the formula (III) are used,

R ⁶ 0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) mOCR ¹

I I

[R ⁴ -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CHCH ₂ 0- (CH ₂ CH2θ) _n R ² ] X ^" (III)

I.

R ⁷

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

5. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that oil bodies are used which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C ₂ fatty acids with linear C6-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, Esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-Cιo fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based of C6-C18 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of C2-Cι ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched Alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C ₂ 2 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

6. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that fatty alcohols of the formula (IV) are used,

R »OH (IV) in which R ^{8 stands} for a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

7. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that mixtures of esterquats and fatty alcohols are used which are obtained directly by alkylation of alkanolamine fatty acid esters in the fatty alcohols.

8. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that

(a) 0.1 to 25% by weight of ester quats,

(b) 0.5 to 90% by weight of oil body and

(c) 0.1 to 75% by weight fatty alcohols

9. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the esterquats and the alcohols are used in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90:10.