DE19828020B4 - Use of mixtures containing linear fatty alcohols, 12-hydroxystearic acid, fatty ketones and / or fatty ethers as thickeners for cosmetic preparations in stick form - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of mixtures containing
(a) linear fatty alcohols and
(b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid,
(b2) fatty ketones and / or
(b3) fatty ether
as a thickener for the preparation of cosmetic preparations in stick form.

Description

Territory of invention

The Invention is in the field of cosmetic stick preparations and anhydrous preparations containing selected fatty substance mixtures. she relates to the use of the mixtures as thickening agents in particular for the production of antiperspirant and deodorant sticks.

cosmetic Stick preparations, as antiperspirant or deodorant products on the market Most notably, soap (sodium stearate), oil body and Bactericides. They have an alkaline pH of about 9. As a disadvantage is the consumer associated with these pins soapy skin feeling considered. A recent development concerns pens, the well-known Antiperspirant actives, such as e.g. Aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH). You need to be formulated at an acidic pH of about 4 and need to special thickener systems, e.g. Polydiols in combination with Dibenzylidensorbitol and mixtures of stearyl alcohol and hydrogenated Castor oil. Due to the required high use concentrations such Thickener systems has the disadvantage that on the treated skin remains a greasy residue that does not only for sensory reasons undesirable is, but also complicates the collection of active ingredients. An overview this can be found in Cosm.Toil. Pp. 77-84 (1984). There are also For many years a variety of antiperspirant sticks based naturally or synthetic waxes in the market in which the active ingredient as powder is introduced into the wax matrix. This is disadvantageous that too These pens are highly greasy and often a white residue remains on the skin.

In this connection, please refer to the patent US 5,429,816 (Procter & Gamble), are known from the antiperspirant sticks containing as a thickening system a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid and N-Acylaminosäureamid and beyond isostearyl alcohol. The pens, however, prove to be too soft and not sufficiently temperature resistant.

The complex object of the present invention has therefore been stick preparations to disposal to provide that are free of the disadvantages described. Especially The pins should be residue free apply and also be free of soaps, so that acidic Active ingredients can be incorporated. At the same time were pins desired characterized by an improved skin feel, high consistency and temperature resistance as well as transparency or whiteness distinguished.

Description of the invention

• (a) lineare Fettalkohole und
• (b1) 12-Hydroxystearinsäure,
• (b2) Fettketone und/oder
• (b3) Fettether

als Verdickungsmittel für die Herstellung von kosmetischen Zubereitungen in Stiftform.The invention relates to the use of mixtures containing

• (a) linear fatty alcohols and
• (b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid,
• (b2) fatty ketones and / or
• (b3) fatty ether

as a thickener for the preparation of cosmetic preparations in stick form.

Surprisingly was found that the preparations according to the invention not only a sufficiently high consistency and temperature resistance show, but also convey an advantageous skin feel. The preparations are soap-free and therefore allow the incorporation of acidic agents, such as. Aluminum chlorohydrate. The pins are transparent or pure white and leave no disturbing residues during application.

Linear fatty alcohols

Linear fatty alcohols are to be understood as meaning primary aliphatic alcohols of the formula (I) R ¹ OH (I) in which R ^{1 is} an aliphatic alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. typical Examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes attack. Preferred are technical fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and tallow fatty alcohol.

12-hydroxystearic acid

12-hydroxystearic acid is by hardening of ricinoleic acid or by hardening of castor oil and subsequently Pressure splitting is produced and can therefore still production reasons small amounts of unsaturated Proportions (iodine numbers in the range of 0.1 to 5) and partial glycerides (less than 1% by weight).

fatty ketones

Oily ketones, which may be present as component (b2), preferably follow the formula (II), R ² -CO-R ³ (II) in which R ² and R ³ independently of one another are linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. The ketones can be prepared by the prior art process, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketones can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, but the two radicals R ² and R ³ preferably differ by only one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Caprinon, Lauron and Stearon are characterized by particularly advantageous thickening properties.

ethers

Fatty ethers, which may be present as component (b3), preferably follow the formula (III), R ⁴ -OR ⁵ (III) in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. Grease ethers of the type mentioned are usually prepared by acid condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fat ethers having particularly advantageous thickening properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol. Particularly preferred is the use of distearyl ether.

thickener

The Pen formulations can the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in amounts of from 2 to 25, preferably 5 to 20 wt .-% - related on the funds - included. The components (a) and (b) can while in a weight ratio 10: 90 to 90: 10, preferably 25: 75 to 75: 25 and in particular 40: 60 to 60: 40 be included.

commercial applicability

The Preparations can as other auxiliaries and additives mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, Pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, bodying agents, thickeners, Polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents, deodorants, Preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV sun protection factors, Antioxidants, insect repellents, self-tanner, perfume oils, dyes and the like contain.

Typical examples of suitable mild, ie particularly skin-friendly surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on white zenproteinen.

Examples of oil bodies are Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / Triglyceridmischungen based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ Fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols m from 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (such as Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized Fettsäureestern with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

• (1) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe;
• (2) C_12/18-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin;
• (3) Glycerinmono- und -diester und Sorbitanmono- und -diester von gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und deren Ethylenoxidanlagerungsprodukte;
• (4) Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• (5) Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (6) Polyol- und insbesondere Polyglycerinester, wie z.B. Polyglycerinpolyricinoleat, Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat oder Polyglycerindimerat. Ebenfalls geeignet sind Gemische von Verbindungen aus mehreren dieser Substanzklassen;
• (7) Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• (8) Partialester auf Basis linearer, verzweigter, ungesättigter bzw. gesättigter C_6/22-Fettsäuren, Ricinolsäure sowie 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und Glycerin, Polyglycerin, Pentaerythrit, Dipentaerythrit, Zuckeralkohole (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucoside (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucoside (z.B. Cellulose);
• (9) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• (10) Wollwachsalkohole;
• (11) Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• (12) Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol gemäß DE 165574 B und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin sowie
• (13) Polyalkylenglycole.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• (1) addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (2) C _12/18 fatty acid _mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (3) glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• (4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogs;
• (5) addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• (6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Also suitable are mixtures of compounds of several of these classes of substances;
• (7) addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• (8) _{partial esters} based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose);
• (9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• (10) wool wax alcohols;
• (11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• (12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 165574 B and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and
• (13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or to castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose mean Alkoxylierungsgrad the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 fatty acid _mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are made DE 2024051 C3 known as a refatting agent for cosmetic preparations.

C _8/18 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known in the art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of preferably approximately 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Particularly preferred is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Also suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C _8/18 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

As superfatting agent can Substances such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides be used, the latter also as foam stabilizers serve.

When Bodying agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and next to it Partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids in Consideration. Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearates.

Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopol ^® of Goodrich or Synthalens ^® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as saline and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400 ^®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as Luviquat ^® ( BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described for example in FR 2252840 A1 and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bis-dialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar ^® CBS, Jaguar ^® C-17, Jaguar ^® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

When anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers For example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, Octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / terf.Butylaminoethylmethacrylat / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylacetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

suitable Silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic ones Silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified Silicone compounds which are both liquid at room temperature also resinous may be present. A detailed overview of suitable volatile Silicones are also found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

typical examples for Fats are glycerides, as waxes come u.a. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, Montan wax, paraffin wax or microwaxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. As stabilizers can Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

Under biogenic agents are for example tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, Tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, Retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, Plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.

As Deowirkstoffe such as antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydrates come into question. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals which easily deliquesce in the air and are formed on evaporation of aqueous aluminum chloride solutions. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used for the production of antiperspirant and deodorizing preparations and is likely to act via the partial occlusion of the sweat glands by protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. Under the trade mark Locron ^® of Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG example is, an aluminum chlorohydrate in the trade, which corresponds to the formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl] · 2.5 H ₂ O, and its use particularly preferably [cp. J.Pharm.Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, it is also possible to use aluminum hydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts. As further Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ^® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective and 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol has proven that is marketed under the brand name Irgasan ^® by Ciba-Geigy, Basle / CH.

When Swelling agent for aqueous phases can Montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemulen as well as alkyl modified Carbopol types (Goodrich) serve. Other suitable polymers or Swelling agents can the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

• • 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher wie in der EP 0693471 B1 beschrieben;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• • Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester;
• • Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon, wie in der EP 0818450 A1 beschrieben;
• • Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• • Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate, wie in der EP 0694521 B1 beschrieben.

Under UV sun protection factors are, for example, at room temperature, liquid or crystalline organic substances present (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• • 3-Benzylidencampher or 3-Benzylidennorcampher and its derivatives, eg 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as in EP 0693471 B1 described;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in U.S. Pat EP 0818450 A1 described;
• Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• • Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives as described in U.S. Pat EP 0694521 B1 described.

• • 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• • Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• • Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

When typical UV-A filters are especially derivatives of benzoylmethane such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can Of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the mentioned soluble Fabrics come for this purpose also insoluble Sunscreen pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question, such as Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, ceria, zirconia, Silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should while a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. You can a spherical one Have shape, it can However, such particles are also used, which are ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape Own form. Further suitable UV sunscreen filters are the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearylthiodipropionat, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximinverbindungen (eg Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low vert doses (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and benzylic resin coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid , Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its D derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

• • Glycerin;
• • Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• • technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%;
• • Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• • Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• • Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• • Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• • Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin.

Hydrotropes, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• • glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical Oligoglyceringemische with an intrinsic degree of condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical Diglyceringemische with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50 wt .-%;
• Methyolverbindungen, in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those having 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• • sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• • Amino sugars, such as glucamine.

When Preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, Formaldehyde solution, Parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and those listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation listed further substance classes. Insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 in question, suitable as a self-tanner dihydroxyacetone.

When Perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, Guay, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, Fir, pine, pines), resins and balms (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, Myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of esters are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenylglycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Count to the Ethern for example, benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear ones Alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the Ketones e.g. the ionone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of various are preferred Fragrances are used, which together create an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils lesser Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably be bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethylalcohol, α-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, Benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

When Dyes can the for used for cosmetic purposes suitable and approved substances as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of the Dye Commission the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, Pp. 81-106. These dyes are commonly in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture, used.

Of the Total content of auxiliaries and additives may be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40 wt .-% - based on the means - amount. The preparation of the agent can be by conventional cold or hot processes respectively; It is preferable to work according to the phase inversion temperature method.

Examples 1 to 11, Comparative Examples V1 and V2.

The components according to Table 1 were melted together at about 80 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. This was followed by pouring into a preheated pen shape. The pencil hardness was determined in the penetrometer (loading weight: 150 g, cone diameter: 1.9 cm, duration: 5 s); the indentation depth is given in mm / 10. The other performance properties were subjectively determined as follows:

The Results are summarized in Table 1.

Table 1 Compositions and properties of deodorant sticks (amounts in g)

Claims (9)

Use of mixtures containing (A) linear fatty alcohols and (b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid, (B2) Fatty ketones and / or (b3) fatty ether as a thickener for the Production of cosmetic preparations in stick form. Use according to Claim 1, characterized in that they contain, as component (a), fatty alcohols of the formula (I), R ¹ OH (I) in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Use according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that it comprises fatty alcohols with 16 contain up to 18 carbon atoms. Use according to at least one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain, as component (b2), fatty ketones of the formula (II) R ² -CO-R ³ (II) in which R ² and R ³ independently of one another are linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that Caprinon, Lauron and / or Stearon included. Use according to at least one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain, as component (b3), fatty ethers of the formula (III), R ⁴ -OR ⁵ (III) in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that Distearyl ether included. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in amounts of from 2 to 25 % By weight on the funds - included. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 10 : 90 to 90: 10 included.