WO1999066895A1

WO1999066895A1 - Stick-shaped cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO1999066895A1
Application number: PCT/EP1999/004122
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stefan BRÜNING; Achim Ansmann; Susan Lang; Holger Tesmann
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh
Priority date: 1998-06-24
Filing date: 1999-06-15
Publication date: 1999-12-29
Also published as: EP1089705A1; DE19828020A1; DE19828020B4

Abstract

Stick-shaped cosmetic compositions contain (a) linear fatty alcohols and (b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid, (b2) fatty ketones and/or (b) fatty ethers. Mixtures of components (a) and (b) have a strong thickening effect, even at low amounts, and make it possible to produce antiperspirant and deodorant sticks, for example, characterised by a particularly advantageous feeling on the skin.

Description

Cosmetic preparations in stick form

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic stick preparations and relates to anhydrous preparations containing selected mixtures of fatty substances and the use of the mixtures as thickeners, in particular for the production of antiperspirant and deodorant sticks.

State of the art

Cosmetic stick preparations, which can be found on the market as antiperspirant or deodorant products, contain primarily soap (sodium stearate), oil bodies and bactericides. They have an alkaline pH of approx. 9. The soapy skin feel associated with these pens is considered a disadvantage by the consumer. A more recent development relates to pens which contain known antiperspirant active ingredients, e.g. Aluminum chlorohydrate (ACH) included. They have to be formulated at an acidic pH of approx. 4 and require special thickener systems such as Polydiols in combination with dibenzylidene sorbitol as well as mixtures of stearyl alcohol and hydrogenated castor oil. Due to the required high use concentrations of such thickener systems, there is the disadvantage that a greasy residue remains on the treated hard parts, which is not only undesirable for sensory reasons, but also complicates the absorption of the active ingredients. An overview of this can be found in Cosm.Toil. Pp. 77-84 (1984). In addition, there have been a large number of antiperspirant sticks based on natural or synthetic waxes on the market for many years, in which the active ingredient is incorporated as a powder into the wax matrix. The disadvantage here is that these pencils are also greasy and often a white residue remains on the skin.

In this connection, reference is made to US Pat. No. 5,429,816 (Procter & Gamble), from which antipersipirant sticks are known which, as a thickening system, contain a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid and N-acylamino acid amide and, moreover, isostearyl alcohol. However, the pens are too soft and not sufficiently temperature-resistant. The complex object of the present invention was therefore to provide pen preparations which are free from the disadvantages described. In particular, the pens should be able to be applied without residue and also be free of soaps so that acidic active ingredients can be incorporated. At the same time, pens were desired that were characterized by improved skin feel, high consistency and temperature resistance as well as transparency and whiteness.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations in stick form, containing

(a) linear fatty alcohols and (b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid, (b2) fatty ketones and / or (b3) fatty ethers.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the preparations according to the invention not only exhibit a sufficiently high consistency and temperature resistance, but also impart an advantageous feeling on the skin. The preparations are soap-free and therefore allow the incorporation of acidic active ingredients, e.g. Aluminum chlorohydrate. The pens are transparent or pure white and do not leave any annoying residues when used.

linear fatty alcohols

Linear fatty alcohols are to be understood as primary aliphatic alcohols of the formula (I)

R ¹ OH (I)

in which R ^{1 represents} an aliphatic alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as technical oils based on F or the technical high-pressure mixtures based on, for example, in the case of methylene or technical high-pressure mixtures based on methylene or technical high-pressure mixtures based on, for example, technical fats or mixtures based on methylene oils Aldehydes occur. Technical fatty alcohols with 16 to 18 carbon atoms are preferred, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and tallow fatty alcohol. 12-H hydroxystearic acid

12-hydroxystearic acid is produced by hardening ricinoleic acid or by hardening castor oil and then pressure splitting and can therefore still contain small amounts of unsaturated components (iodine numbers in the range from 0.1 to 5) and partial glycerides (less than 1% by weight).

Fat ketones

Fat ketones which can be present as component (b2) preferably follow the formula (II),

R2-CO-R ³ (II)

in which R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. The ketones can be prepared by prior art methods, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts. The ketones can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, but the two radicals R ² and R ³ preferably differ only by one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Caprinon, Lauron and Stearon are characterized by particularly advantageous thickening properties.

Fatty ether

Fat ethers which may be present as component (b3) preferably follow the formula (III),

in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12. Fat ethers of the type mentioned are usually prepared by acidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fat ethers with particularly advantageous thickening properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol. The use of distearyl ether is particularly preferred. Thickener

The stick formulations can contain the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in amounts of 2 to 25, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, based on the composition. Components (a) and (b) can be present in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90:10, preferably 25:75 to 75:25 and in particular 40:60 to 60:40.

Industrial applicability

Another object of the invention relates to the use of mixtures containing

(a) linear fatty alcohols and (b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid, (b2) fatty ketones and / or (b3) fatty ethers

as a thickener for the production of aqueous preparations in stick form. The preparations can, as further auxiliaries and additives, include mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents, deodorant agents, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, insect repellents, Contain self-tanners, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, and alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, preferably protein amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, or alkyl amido fatty acid proteins, preferably protein-based fatty acid proteins or alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, alkyl amide fatty acid proteins, and alkyl amido fatty acid proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22- Fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (e.g. Propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cβ-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids, esters of Cβ- C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C ₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl - ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside - glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);

(9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and (13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the middle of which Degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Cβ / iδ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Regarding the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred. Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (for example Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. described in FR-A 2252840 and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidoneA / inylacrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate butylmaleate isobornylacrylate copolymers, methylvinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-crosslinked polyamide-acrylamide and polyols, polyammonyl acrylate and polyols with acrylamides and non-crosslinked polyammonyl acrylate and with polyols Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypro- pyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyridone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and, if appropriate, derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Suitable silicon compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 9_1, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates are suitable as deodorant active ingredients. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used to manufacture antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. For example, an aluminum chlorohydrate that corresponds to the formula [Al2 (OH) 5CI] * 2.5 H2O and whose use is particularly preferred is commercially available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG [cf. J.Pharm.Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, aluminum hydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used. Esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid mono- ethyl esters, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester. Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophen-oxy) phenol, which is sold under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective.

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP-B1 0693471;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

• esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylic acid;

• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP-A1 0818450;

Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP-B1 0694521.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate are also suitable for this purpose. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-

Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfonate, homocysteine sulfate -, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid , Malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), foic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and Derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxy anisole, nordihydroguajakh resinic acid, nordihydroguajonyroxyne derivative, mannodisulfuric acid, trihydronic acid, trihydroxybenzate, trihydroxybenzate, trihydric acid, trihydric acid, trihydrate, trihydrate, trihydrate, trihydro Superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, Sugar, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Keep coming

n animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl-phenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylproylateylateylateylateylateylateylateylateylatepylpropionate. The ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone , the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone,

Cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, isofo-eicurate, vertofix Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilllat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used. Examples

Examples 1 to 11, comparative examples V1 and V2. The components according to Table 1 were melted together at about 80 ° C. and stirred until homogeneous. Then poured into a preheated stick mold. The pen hardness was determined in the penetrometer (loading weight: 150 g; cone diameter: 1.9 cm; duration 5 s); the indentation depth is given in mm / 10. The other application properties were determined subjectively as follows:

The results are summarized in Table 1.

Table 1

Compositions and properties of deodorant sticks (quantities in g)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations in stick form, containing

(a) linear fatty alcohols and

(b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid,

(b2) fat ketones and / or

(b3) fatty ether.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain fatty alcohols of the formula (I) as component (a),

R10H (I)

in which R ^{1 represents} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

3. Preparations according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain fatty alcohols with 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

4. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain fatty ketones of the formula (II) as component (b2),

in which R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12.

5. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain caprinone, lauron and / or stearone.

6. Preparations according to at least one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain fatty ethers of the formula (III) as component (b3),

R4-0-R ⁵ (III)

in which R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for linear or branched alkyl radicals with 1 to 22 Carbon atoms are provided that the total number of carbon atoms is at least 12.

7. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain distearyl ether.

8. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in amounts of 2 to 25 wt .-% - based on the composition.

9. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain the mixtures of components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90:10.

10. Using mixtures containing

(a) linear fatty alcohols and

(b1) 12-hydroxystearic acid,

(b2) fat ketones and / or

(b3) fatty ether

as a thickener for the production of cosmetic preparations in stick form.