DE19917745A1 - Aqueous surfactant composition containing alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside, betaine and quaternary protein hydrolysate, useful in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products - Google Patents

Abstract

Quaternary protein hydrolysates are included in surfactant mixtures comprising alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides and betaines to improve dermatological tolerance. Mild aqueous compositions containing: (a) alkyl ether sulfates; (b) alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides; (c) betaines; and (d) quaternary protein hydrolysates are new.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to aqueous quaternary surfactant mixtures with improved dermatological compatibility.

State of the art

The consumer makes complex demands on cosmetic formulations: they must offer the desired performance in the application, sufficient storage stability exhibit, be fully biodegradable and in particular a reliable dermatological Have tolerance that excludes skin irritation or allergic reactions. For this Basically, mild surfactants, such as alkyl glucosides or betaines, are growing Importance too, especially since they are able to make the skin compatibility of other surfactants synergistic Way to improve. So are mixtures of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl glucosides and betaines, such as they are not used, for example, in hair shampoos, but also in manual dishwashing detergents only known to be foam-rich and effective in cleaning, but also known to be particularly well tolerated by the skin. Nevertheless, there is an interest, the application technology and dermatological To further improve the properties of such preparations. The object of the invention is therefore consisted of providing appropriate mixtures.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to mild aqueous preparations containing

• a) alkyl ether sulfates,
• b) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) betaines and
• d) quaternized protein hydrolyzates.

Surprisingly, it was found that the addition of small amounts of quaternized protein hydrolysates the dermatological compatibility anyway very mild ternary mixtures of alkyl ether sulfates, alk (en) yl oligoglycosides and betaines again significantly improved. In particular the addition of quaternized protein hydrolyzates by condensation of wheat protein hydrolyzates can be obtained with hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, improves dry combability and the wet combability and reduces the electrostatic charge, for example in hair shampoos.

Alkyl ether sulfates

Alkyl ether sulfates ("ether sulfates"), which are suitable as component (a), are known anionic surfactants which are produced industrially by SO ₃ - or chlorosulfonic acid (CSA) sulfation of fatty alcohol or oxo alcohol polyglycol ethers and subsequent neutralization. For the purposes of the invention, ether sulfates are suitable which follow the formula (I)

R ¹ O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q SO ₃ X (I)

in which R ^{1 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, q represents numbers from 1 to 10 and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium. Typical examples are the sulfates of investment products with an average of 1 to 10 and in particular 2 to 5 moles of ethylene oxide with capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostalkanol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, and oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, oleyl alcohol alcohol, ela , Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts. The ether sulfates can have both a conventional and a narrow homolog distribution. It is particularly preferred to use ether sulfates based on adducts of on average 2 to 3 mol ethylene oxide with technical C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut fatty _alcohol fractions in the form of their sodium and / or magnesium salts.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (b) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (II),

R ² O- [G] _p (II)
in which R ^{2 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. As representative of the extensive literature, reference is made here to the documents EP-A1 0301298 and WO 90/03977. The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound and especially here can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ² can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglu cosides with a chain length of C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation by distillation of technical Ca-C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₁₂ -Alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ² can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C _12/14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Betaine

Betaines which can be used as component (c) are also known surfactants which are predominantly prepared by carboxyalkylation, preferably carboxymethylation, of amine compounds. The starting materials are preferably condensed with halocarboxylic acids or their salts, in particular with sodium chloroacetate, one mol of salt being formed per mole of betaine. The addition of unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid is also possible. Regarding the nomenclature and in particular the distinction between betaines and "real" amphoteric surfactants, reference is made to the contribution by U. Ploog in Seifen Öle-Fette-Wwachs, 198, 373 (1982). Further overviews on this topic can be found, for example, by A. O'Lennick et al. in HAPPI, Nov. 70 (1986), S. Holzman et al. in tens. Surf. Det. 23: 309 (1986), R. Bilbo et al. in Soap Cosm. Chem. Spec. Apr. 46 (1990) and P. Ellis et al. in Euro Cosm. 1, 14 (1994). Examples of suitable betaines are the carboxyalkylation products of secondary and in particular tertiary amines which follow the formula (III)

in which R ³ for alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ⁵ for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n for numbers from 1 to 6 and X for a Alkali and / or alkaline earth metal or ammonium. Typical examples are the carboxymethylation products of hexylmethylamine, hexyldimethylamine, octyldimethylamine, De cyldimethylamin, dodecylmethylamine, dodecyldimethylamine, Dodecylethylmethylamin, C kyldimethylamin _12/14 -Kokosal, myristyldimethylamine, cetyldimethylamine, stearyldimethylamine, Stearylethylmethyl amine, oleyl dimethyl amine, C _16/18 tallow alkyl dimethyl amine and technical mixtures thereof . Also suitable are carboxyalkylation products of amidoamines which follow the formula (IV)

in which R ⁶ CO represents an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m represents numbers from 1 to 3 and R ⁴ , R ⁵ , n and X have the meanings given above. Typical examples are reaction products of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, namely caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arenachic acid, gadoleic acid, gadeleostearic acid, gadeleic acid Behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures, with N, N-dimethylaminoethylamine, N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine, N, N-diethylaminoethylamine and N, N-diethylaminopropylamine, which are condensed with sodium chloroacetate. The use of a condensation product of C _8/18 coconut fatty acid N, N-dimethylaminopropylamide with sodium chloroacetate is preferred.

Cationic protein hydrolyzates

The cationic protein hydrolyzates that are suitable as component (d) are derivatized Degradation products from animal or vegetable proteins, for example collagen, elastin or Keratin and preferably oat, corn, almond, pea, silk and potato protein as well in particular wheat, soy and rice protein. To produce the cationic surfactants, the Proteins are first split by acidic, alkaline and / or enzymatic hydrolysis and except for one average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 4000, preferably 2000 to 3500 reduced. In a second step, the hydrolysates are then chlorinated or epoxy-substituted ammonium compounds condensed, the reaction between a free Hydroxyl group of the protein hydrolyzate and the halogen or oxirane group of the Quaternizing agent takes place. Such ammonium compounds are preferably used Quaternization used which have at least one long alkyl radical bonded to the nitrogen, in order to introduce a hydrophobic residue into the otherwise very polar molecule, so that a tenside structure arises. Wheat, soy or rice protein hydrolyzates are preferred Epoxypropyllaurydimethylammoniumchlorid condensed.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, wheat, soy or rice protein hydrolyzates used by the condensation of wheat protein hydrolyzates with Hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid arise. Here are the cationic ones in particular Protein hydrolyzates of the type Gluadin WQTM (Henkel) preferred.

Aqueous preparations

In the simplest form, the cosmetic preparations can be present as aqueous solutions of components (a) to (d). The preparations then advantageously have the following composition:

• a) 5 to 80, preferably 20 to 50% by weight of alkyl ether sulfates,
• b) 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 30% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 30 wt .-% betaines and
• d) 0.1 to 50, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight of quaternized protein hydrolyzates,

the quantities given relate to the solids content of the aqueous preparations and each add 100% by weight. The solids content of the stated aqueous preparations can in turn 5 to 50 and preferably 10 to 30 wt .-%. The above means can serve as starting material for the production of cosmetic end products, which are then further typical Contain ingredients.  

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

Are the preparations according to the invention for the production of cosmetic end products used, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, creams or lotions, these can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, and greasing agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, consistency enhancers, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic agents, deodorants, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, preservatives tel, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, insect repellents, self Contain tanners, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. H. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, fatty acid glucamides and / or protein fatty acid condensers sate, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ - Carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ - fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alk ohol with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. B. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ether with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• 1. Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• 2. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• 3. Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated Fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• 4. Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• 5. Polyol and especially polyglycerol esters, such as. B. polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly 12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of Verbin are also suitable doses from several of these classes of substances;
• 6. Adducts of 2 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• 7. _{partial esters} based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. Methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose);
• 8. mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their Salts;
• 9. wool wax alcohols;
• 10. polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• 11. Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and Polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol as well
• 12. Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homologous mixtures of which average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and Fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.  

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stea rinic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances like for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total min have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stea rinsic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or is preferred Fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar Guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore hermolecular polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as for example pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with restricted homologs distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Legs quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtained from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400® is, cationic starch copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Poly glycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxy propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyl aminohydroxypropyldiethylene diamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dime thyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as. B. described in FR-A 2252840 and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as for example quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3- propane, cationic guar gum, such as B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from the company Celanese quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.  

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / iso bornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, un cross-linked and polyols cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypro pyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrole don / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and, if appropriate, derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds that are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can lie. Todd also provides a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides. a. Beeswax, carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes if necessary in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. B. cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. As stabilizers can metal salts of fatty acids such. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, Ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acid ren, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.

As deodorants come e.g. B. antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydates in question. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used to manufacture antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. For example, an aluminum chlorohydrate that corresponds to the formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl] .2.5 H ₂ O and whose use is particularly preferred is commercially available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG. J. Pharm. Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, aluminum hydroxyl octates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used. Esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited. Further substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid mono ethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxy acid or citric acid, and their esters, for example cicarboxylic acid and their esters. Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophen-oxy) phenol, which is sold under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective.

Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Ge Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chito san, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonite, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used. Other suitable polymers or swelling agents can The overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbene cylidene) camphor as described in EP-B1 0693471;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- 2-octyl (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Oc tocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbene methyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-meth oxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;  
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl tria zon, as described in EP-A1 0818450;
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP-B1 0694521.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sul fonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesul fonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters wise 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble For this purpose, substances also come with insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, Zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should be medium Diameter less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular have between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but they can Also such particles are used that are ellipsoidal or in some other way from the spherical form have a different shape. Further suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoxim in) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phy tic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives , α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytofuol, butylhydroxy anisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc oxide dismutase ate (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

To improve the flow behavior, hydrotropes, such as ethanol, Isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can be used. Polyols that come into consideration here have preferably 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as wise methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, para bene, pentanediol or sorbic acid and those listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance  led further classes of material. As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-touluamid, 1,2- Pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 in question, dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural Fragrance substances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, Iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), Resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Keep coming animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic Fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and type Hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxy ethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallylpro pionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, ∝-Iso methyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, Gera niol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used det, which together create an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lesser curses activity, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, Chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro are preferred myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, Mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damas cone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

As dyes, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used be used, such as the dye in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the entire mixture used.  

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight on the middle - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes respectively; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.  

Examples

The dermatological compatibility of various aqueous surfactant mixtures was against water as standard (= 100% rel.) in the ELISA test (Enzyme Linked Vitro Skin Model) on the release of Interleukin determined. For this purpose, the 12% by weight surfactant solutions were diluted to 5% by weight. The Results are summarized in Table 1. Examples 1 and 2 are according to the invention, the examples V1 to V4 are used for comparison.

Table 1

ELISA test of aqueous surfactant solutions (water = 100%)

The examples and the comparative examples show that even the addition of small amounts of quaternized Protein hydrolyzates lead to a significant improvement in dermatological tolerance and Preparations that can be classified as mild to the skin as water.

Claims (1)

1. Mild aqueous preparations containing

• a) alkyl ether sulfates,
• b) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• c) betaines and
• d) quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
• e) Preparations according to Claim 1, characterized in that they contain alkyl ether sulfates of the formula (I) as component (a),
  R ¹ O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q SO ₃ X (I)
  in which R ^{1 represents} a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, q represents numbers from 1 to 10 and X represents an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.
• f) preparations according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (II) as component (b),
  R ² O- [G] _p (II)
  in which R ^{2 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.
• g) preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain betaines of the formula (III) as component (c),
  in which R ³ for alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ⁴ for hydrogen or alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ⁵ for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n for numbers from 1 to 6 and X for a Alkali and / or alkaline earth metal or ammonium.
• h) preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain betaines of the formula (IV) as component (c),
  in which R ⁶ CO represents an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 3 double bonds, m represents numbers from 1 to 3 and R ⁴ , R ⁵ , n and X have the meanings given above.
• i) Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain quaternized wheat, soy or rice protein hydrolyzates as component (d).
• j) Preparations according to at least one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium wheat protein hydrolyzates as component (d).
• k) preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they
  • a) 5 to 80% by weight of alkyl ether sulfates,
  • b) 1 to 50% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
  • c) 1 to 50% by weight betaines and
  • d) 0.1 to 50% by weight of quaternized protein hydrolyzates
  contain, the amounts given relate to the solids content of the aqueous preparations and each add up to 100% by weight.