DE19828021C1 - Cosmetic preparation which makes hair easier to comb and make skin soft to touch - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic preparation comprising polyglycol ester sulphates and cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers make hair easier to comb and make skin soft to touch.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to cosmetic products containing fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates and Silicone compounds.

State of the art

Fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates are skin-compatible, anionic surfactants, which in particular characterized in that they have the foaming power of other surfactants in a synergistic manner reinforce. Formulations of cosmetic products, especially hair care products, the fat contain acid (poly) glycol ester sulfate as the only or quantitative predominant anionic surfactant, have the disadvantage, however, that their foaming power is not always satisfactory. This be affects the height of the base foam on the one hand, but especially the foam resistance in hard water. Another problem is that the fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfate after rinsing often leaves a dull feeling on the hair and tends to be easy to comb aim to worsen.

Chemical abstracts (1994, 121-141244 and 1994, 120-79998) describe facial cleansers and powdered dishwashing compositions containing fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates ten.

The complex object of the invention was therefore cosmetic products with a content to provide fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates that are free from the disadvantages described are.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing

• (a) fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates of the formula (I)
  R ¹ COO (AO) _x SO ₃ X (I)
  in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x for numbers from 1 to 3 on average and AO for a CH ₂ CH ₂ O-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O- and / or CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ O radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium and
• (b) silicone compounds.

It has surprisingly been found that the addition of silicone compounds has the foaming power of Fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates significantly increased. The invention includes the finding that in the foam texture and hair conditioning can be improved in the same way.

Fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates

Fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates follow the formula (I),

R ¹ COO (AO) _x SO ₃ X (I)

in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x for numbers from 1 to 3 on average and AO for a CH ₂ CH ₂ O-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O- and / or CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ O radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, Am monium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium are prepared by sulfating the corresponding fatty acid (poly) glycol ester. These in turn can be obtained using the relevant preparative processes in organic chemistry. For this purpose, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or a mixture thereof - in random or block distribution - is added to the corresponding fatty acids, where acid-catalyzed in this reaction, but preferably in the presence of bases such as, for. B. sodium methylate or calcined hydrotalcite. If a degree of alkoxylation of 1 is desired, the intermediates can also be prepared by esterifying the fatty acids with an appropriate alkylene glycol. The sulfation of the fatty acid (poly) glycol ester can be carried out in a manner known per se with chlorosulfonic acid or preferably gaseous sulfur trioxide, the molar ratio between fatty acid (poly) glycol ester and sulfating agent being in the range from 1: 0.95 to 1: 1.2 , preferably 1: 1 to 1: 1.1 and the reaction temperature can be 30 to 80 and preferably 50 to 60 ° C. It is also possible to undersulfate the fatty acid (poly) glycol ester, ie to use significantly fewer sulfating agents than would be stoichiometrically required for complete conversion. For example, if one chooses molar amounts of fatty acid (poly) glycol ester to sulfating agent from 1: 0.5 to 1: 0.95, mixtures of fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates and fatty acid (poly) glycol esters are obtained, which are suitable for a whole range of applications are also advantageous. In order to avoid hydrolysis, it is very important to carry out the neutralization at a pH in the range from 5 to 9, preferably 7 to 8. Typical examples of suitable starting materials are the addition products of 1 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, but preferably the adducts with 1 mole of ethylene oxide or 1 mole of propylene oxide with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are then sulfated and neutralized as described above. Fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates of the formula (I) are preferably used in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, x for an average of 1 or 2, AO for a CH ₂ CH ₂ O group and X for sodium or Ammonium is, for example, lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, Tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt and their mixtures. The fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates are usually present in the compositions in amounts of 0.5 to 25, preferably 2 to 20 and in particular 5 to 15% by weight.

Silicone compounds

The following compounds, for example, are suitable as silicone compounds:

• (1) dimethylpolysiloxanes of the formula (II),
  (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO [(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] n ₁ Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (II)
  in which n1 stands for a number from 3 to 600;
• (2) methylphenylpolysiloxanes of the formula (III),
  in which the sum of (a + b + c) stands for a number in the range from 1 to 600, with the proviso that at least two of the three parameters are not equal to 0.
• (3) amino-modified silicones of the formula (IV),
  (RdA _(3-d) Si [OSiA) ₂ ] _p - [OSi (A _e R _(2-e) ] _q -OSi [R _d A _(3-d) ] (IV)
  in which R represents hydrogen, a phenyl radical, an OH group, an alkyl radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, d for 0 or a number from 1 to 3, e for 0 or 1, p for 0 or numbers from 1 to 1,999, q stands for numbers from 1 to 2, the sum (p + q) stands for numbers from 1 to 2 and A stands for a radical C _f H _2f L, in which in turn f represents a number from 2 to 8 and L represents a group of the formula ( IVa) to (IVf) means:
  
• (4) fatty acid-modified silicones of the formula (V),
  in which R ^# CO stands for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, g, h and i independently of one another for numbers from 1 to 350 and j for 0 or numbers from 1 to 10.
• (5) alcohol-modified silicones of the formulas (VIa) and / or (VIb),
  in which k and l independently of one another represent numbers in the range from 1 to 500, preferably 1 to 200 and B represents an optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
• (6) fatty acid / alcohol-modified silicones of the formula (VII),
  in which R '' stands for an alkyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m1, m2 and m3 for numbers from 1 to 300 and m4 for 0 or numbers from 4 to 22.
• (7) polyether-modified silicones of the formula (VIIIa) and / or (VIIIb),
  in the R ^a for an alkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, PO for an OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) radical, EO for an OCH ₂ CH ₂ radical, p1 and p2 independently of one another for 0 or numbers from 1 to 50 and p3 stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 400, and
  in which q1 for a number from 2 to 100 and preferably 20 to 80, q2 for a number from 1 to 50 and preferably 3 to 30, EO for an OCH ₂ CH ₂ radical, PO for an OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) -Rest, q3 and q4 for 0 or numbers from 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 25 and R ^{a is} an alkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
• (8) epoxy-modified silicones of the formula (IX),
  in which r1 stands for a number from 1 to 500 and preferably 1 to 250, r2 stands for a number from 1 to 50 and preferably 1 to 30 and D stands for an alkylene group with 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
• (9) fluorine-modified silicones of the formula (X),
  in which s1 stands for a number from 1 to 400 and preferably 1 to 250.
• (10) cyclic silicones of the formula (XI),
  n the R ^{b is} an alkyl radical having 1 to 3 carbon atoms and t is a number from 3 to 8.
• (11) alkyl-modified silicones of the formulas (XIIa) and / or (XIIb),
  in which R ^{c represents} an alkyl radical having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, E represents an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and u1 and u2 independently of one another represent numbers from 1 to 500 and preferably 1 to 200, and in R ^{d represents} an alkyl radical 10 to 16 carbon atoms and v1 and v2 independently of one another represent numbers from 1 to 500 and preferably 1 to 200.
• (12) glycoside-modified silicones of the formula (XIII),
  R ^f _x R ^e _3-x SiO - [(SiR ^e R ^f O) _m - (SiR ^e ₂ O) _n ] _y -SiR ^e _3-x R ^f _x (XIII)
  in which R ^{e represents} hydrogen or an optionally substituted alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, R ^{f represents} a radical of the formula (XIV),
  R ^g (R ^h O) _c [G] _p (XIV)
  R ^g for alkylene residues with 1 to 18 carbon atoms, R ^h for alkylene residues with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G for glycoside residues with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, p for numbers from 1 to 10, c for 0 or numbers in the range from 1 to 20, m stands for 0 or numbers in the range from 1 to 200, n for 0 or numbers in the range from 1 to 1000, x for 0 or 1 and y for 0 or numbers in the range from 1 to 1200, with the proviso that the silicones of the Formula (XIII) contain at least one radical R ^e .

With regard to the desired properties of the surfactants, certain have Silicone compounds in combination with the fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates have particular advantages. A particularly fine, creamy foam is mixed, for example, with methylpolysiloxanes (1), Methylphenylpolysiloxanes (2), amino-modified silicones (7), polyether-modified silicones (7) and / or cyclic silicones (10) achieved. For the purposes of the invention come as silicone compounds also explicitly consider surfactant silicon compounds that differ structurally from Derive polydimethylsiloxanes in which one or more methyl groups against hydrophilic non-ionic or ionic residues have been replaced. Overviews of the related in Possible substances are from B.Grüning and G.Koerner in Tens.Surf. Det. 26, 312 (1989), by P.Hameyer and C.Gould in Manufact.Chem., 20, January 1990 and B.Grüning and H.Leidreiter in Seifen-Öle-Fette-Wwachs 118, 117 (1992) appeared. The invention Preparations can contain the silicone compounds in amounts of 0.01 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% - based on the solids content of the mixtures - contain.  

Industrial applicability

The mixtures according to the invention can be used to produce a wide variety of cosmetic Preparations are used, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, creams, lo or ointments. They can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, Emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, consistency agents, thickeners, Polymers, biogenic agents, antidandruff agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes, Solubilizers, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, insect repellents, self-tanners, perfume oils, Contain dyes and the like.

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. H. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol (poly) - glycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, Fatty acid glucamides, alkylamido betaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably on Wheat protein base.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids are, for example, oil bodies with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohol fetch with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. B. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• (1) Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
• (2) C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
• (3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated Fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;
• (4) Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxy analogs;
• (5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters, such as. B. polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly 12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of Verbin are also suitable doses from several of these classes of substances;
• (7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;
• (8) Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C _6/22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. Methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose);
• (9) Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their Salts;
• (10) wool wax alcohols;
• (11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• (12) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and Polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol as well
• (13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homologous mixtures of which average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

C _8/18 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 C atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acid and alkyl amino acetic acid each with about 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and Fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers to serve.

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, partial glycerides, especially stea rinsauremonoglycerid, esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid, fatty substances, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total min have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether, fatty acids such as stea rinsic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to  22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids into consideration. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or is preferred Fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar Guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore hermolecular polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® of Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as for example pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with restricted homologs distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. Legs quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtained from Amerchol under the name Polymer JR 400® Lich, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products from Poly glycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxy propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as. B. amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyl aminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dime thyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as. B. described in FR 2252840 A1 and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as for example quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. Bis dimethylamino-1,3- propane, cationic guar gum, such as B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from the company Celanese quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as. B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirnpol® AD-1, Mirnpol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / iso bornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer and their esters, un cross-linked and polyols cross-linked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypro pyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrole  don / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and, if appropriate, derivatized Cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

Typical examples of fats are glycerides. a. Beeswax, camauba wax, Candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes if necessary in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. B. cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. As stabilizers can metal salts of fatty acids such. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or -ricinoleate can be used. Examples of biogenic active ingredients are tocopherol and tocophe rol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, Phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plants to understand zen extracts and vitamin complexes. Climbazol, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, micro crystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copoly merisates, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or their salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) are used. Further Suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, at room temperature as liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbene cylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- 2-octyl (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester;
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbene methyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-meth oxy-4-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl-tria zon, as described in EP 0818450 A1;  
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -34'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sul fonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesul fonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as, for example, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters wise 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble For this purpose, substances also come with insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, Zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should be medium Diameter less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular have between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but they can Also such particles are used that are ellipsoidal or in some other way from the spherical form have a different shape. Further suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), Auro thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl) , Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfox , Homocysteine sulfoximine, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin ) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. µmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (z. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (z. B. Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives , α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxy anisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, hamsic acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc ate (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, Pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as wise methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, para bene, pentanediol or sorbic acid and those listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance led further classes of material. As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-touluamid, 1,2- Pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 in question, dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.  

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural Fragrance substances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, Iris, Calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), Resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Keep coming animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic Fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and type Hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxy ethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallylpro pionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, ∝-Iso methyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, Gera niol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include Terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together create an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, the mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro-myrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-Hexylzimtaldehyd, Geraniol, Benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, linalo oil, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, Mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damas cone, geraniumol bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

As dyes, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used be used, such as the dye in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are put together. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 % By weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight on the middle - amount. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes respectively; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples Foaming power

The foaming power of various recipes was measured in hard water (16 d) determined at 23 ° C according to DIN 53 902 / Part 2. The basic foam is shown, the foam height according to 5 min, the nature of the foam (++ = creamy, economical foam; + = coarse-pored foam) as well as the subjective feeling of hair when used as a hair shampoo after rinsing (+++ smooth, easy to comb, ++ blunt, easy to comb, + blunt, difficult to comb). Examples 1 to 4 are according to the invention, Examples V1 to V4 are used for comparison. The results are in Table 1 summarized.

Table 1

Foaming capacity (quantities as% by weight)

Dry and wet combability tests

Dry combability has been approved the electrostatic charge examined. A relative humidity of 20% was set. The conditioning time was 12 h at 30 ° C. The measurement was made using the charge tapping on one double Faraday cage after 10 combs. The error in the measurements was on average 2.5%, the statistical certainty was at least 99.9%. Wet combability was on brown hair (Alkinco # 6634, strand length 12 cm, strand mass 1 g) was examined. After The tresses were impregnated with 100 ml of formulations 1 to 4 or V1 to V4. After After a contact time of 5 minutes, the strands were run for 1 minute under running water (1 l / min, 38 ° C.) rinsed. The strands were measured again and compared with the zero measurement. The error with the measurements were on average 2%, the statistical certainty was at least 99%. The Results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2

Dry and wet combability

Claims (5)

1. Containing cosmetic products

• (a) fatty acid (poly) glycol ester sulfates of the formula (I)
  R ¹ COO (AO) _x SO ₃ X (I)
  in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x for numbers from 1 to 3 on average and AO for a CH ₂ CH ₂ O-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O- and / or CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ O radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium and
• (b) silicone compounds.

2. Cosmetic agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains the fatty acid (poly) glycol estersulfates in amounts of 0.5 to 25 wt .-% - based on the agent - contain. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they are sili contain con compounds selected from the group formed by dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amino-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified Si liconen, alcohol-modified silicones, fatty acid / alcohol-modified silicones, polyethermodifi graced silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, alkyl modified silicones and glycoside modified silicones. 4. Cosmetic agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain the silicone compounds in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%. 5. Cosmetic agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they continue to contain cationic polymers.