WO1999009935A2

WO1999009935A2 - Cosmetic preparations containing fatty acid polyglycol ester sulphates and polymers

Info

Publication number: WO1999009935A2
Application number: PCT/EP1998/005211
Authority: WO
Inventors: Hermann Hensen; Bernd Fabry; Jörg KAHRE
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh
Priority date: 1997-08-25
Filing date: 1998-08-17
Publication date: 1999-03-04
Also published as: WO1999009935A3

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations, containing a) polyglycol ester sulphates and b) cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or non-ionic polymers. The inventive preparations make hair easier to comb and make skin soft to touch.

Description

Cosmetic preparations

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of hair and skin care products and in the emulsions sector and relates to cosmetic preparations with selected anionic surfactants and polymers.

State of the art

Cosmetic preparations can be roughly divided into cleaning and care products for skin and hair. Ever increasing demands are being placed on modern products by the consumer, of which the ecotoxicological compatibility, i.e. compatibility with the environment and the user has become a matter of course. The trend of the time today is rather in the direction of developing modules for different product types that combine a multitude of different properties and thus on the one hand enlarge the area of application and on the other hand simplify interchangeability. In the field of cosmetics, for example, there is a need for preparations that can also be called raw material compounds, which can be used both in the area of hair conditioning and in the skin care and sun protection sectors.

In the present case, the specific object of the invention was to provide mild cosmetic preparations which improve the combability, the soft feel and the tear resistance of hair, reduce their static charge and at the same time impart a pleasant feeling on the skin. If the preparations are in the form of emulsions, they should also have a sufficiently high stability even when stored at high temperatures. Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations, especially care products for the skin and hair, containing

(a) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(b) cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic polymers.

Surprisingly, it has been found that preparations which contain fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates as anionic surfactants or emulsifiers together with the abovementioned polymers improve both the wet and dry combability of hair, reduce the static charge, give the hair a pleasant soft feel and fullness and further increase the tensile strength. Another advantage of the mixtures is that they impart a pleasant feeling on the skin. Finally, the addition of the polymers to emulsions which contain fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates leads to higher emulsion stability, especially when stored at high temperatures.

Fatty acid polypropylene sulfates

Fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates follow the formula (I),

R1C00 (A0) _X S0 ₃ X (I)

in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x for numbers from 1 to 3 on average and AO for a CH ₂ CH ₂ 0-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 0- and / or CH (CH) CH ₂ 0 radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium are prepared by sulfating the corresponding fatty acid polyglycol esters. These in turn can be obtained using the relevant preparative processes in organic chemistry. For this purpose, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or a mixture thereof - in random or block distribution - is added to the corresponding fatty acids, this reaction being acid-catalyzed, but preferably in the presence of bases, such as, for example, sodium methylate or calcined hydrotalcite. If a degree of alkoxylation of 1 is desired, the intermediates can also be prepared by esterifying the fatty acids with an appropriate alkylene glycol. The sulfation of the fatty acid polyglycol esters can be carried out in a manner known per se with chlorosulfonic acid or preferably gaseous sulfur trioxide, the molar ratio between fatty acid polyglycol ester and sulfating agent being in the range from 1: 0.95 to 1: 1, 2, preferably 1: 1 to 1: 1 , 1 and the reaction temperature can be 30 to 80 and preferably 50 to 60 ° C. It is also possible to add the fatty acid polyglycol esters , ie to use significantly less undersulfated sulfating than would be stoichiometrically required for complete reaction ^'is one, for example, molar amounts of fatty acid polyglycol ester to sulfating agent of 1: 0.5 to 1: 0.95 säurepolyglycolestersulfaten mixtures of fat and fatty acid polyglycol esters obtained, which are also advantageous for a whole range of applications. In order to avoid hydrolysis, it is very important to carry out the neutralization at a pH in the range from 5 to 9, preferably 7 to 8. Typical examples of suitable starting materials are the addition products of 1 to 3 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, but preferably the adducts with 1 mole of ethylene oxide or 1 mole of propylene oxide with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, Palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are then sulfated and neutralized as described above. Fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates of the formula (I) are preferably used in which R ¹ CO stands for an acyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, x for an average of 1 or 2, AO for a CH∑CH∑O group and X for sodium or ammonium, such as for example lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, lauric acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, coconut fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt, tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate sodium salt, tallow fatty acid + 1 EO sulfate ammonium salt and mixtures thereof. The agents can contain the fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates in amounts of 0.1 to 30, preferably 1 to 25 and in particular 5 to 15% by weight, based on the agents.

Cationic polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyl-aminohydroxynoxypropylamines / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described for example in FR-A 2252840, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosa n, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 the company Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers, there are, for example, degradation products of animal or vegetable polypeptides, such as e.g. Collagen, keratin, wheat, rice, potato or almond protein hydrolyzates, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyol crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers / dimethyl / vinylidylamino-acrylate and vinylpyramidylamino-methyl-acrylamate-acrylamate-vinylamido-acrylamate-vinylamino-acrylamate-vinylamido-acrylamate-vinylamido-acrylamate-vinylamino-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-methacrylate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-acrylamate-and- in question.

The compositions can contain the polymers in total in amounts of 0.1 to 70, preferably 0.5 to 5 or 40 to 60 and in particular 1 to 2% by weight, based on the composition.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention can be used, for example, for the production of hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, creams or lotions, which in turn, as further auxiliaries and additives, include mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, consistency agents, thickeners, silicone compounds, biogenic active ingredients, deodorant ingredients , Anti-dandruff agents, film formers, preservatives, hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, insect repellents, self-tanners, perfume oils, dyes and the like

Typical examples of suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or Diaikylsulfosuccinate, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 10 fatty acids with linear C 6 -C 22 Fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl Malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cβ-cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Cι . Fatty acids, esters of CΘ-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 up to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbo nates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, Silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

(1) Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group;

(2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;

(3) glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products;

(4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

(5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;

(7) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(8) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside - glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose); (9) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

(10) wool wax alcohols;

(11) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(12) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 1165574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol and

(13) Polyalkylene glycols.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the middle of which Degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / ι_ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 2024051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Cδ / iβ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monogiycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group as well as the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampho- lytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine. In addition to the ampholytic emulsifiers, quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithinate, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (for example Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma ), Polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature. can lie. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, waxes include Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or micro waxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, e.g. Cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides in question. Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

Antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydrates are suitable as deodorant active ingredients. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals that easily dissolve in the air and arise when aqueous aluminum chloride solutions are evaporated. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used to manufacture antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and is likely to act by partially occluding the sweat glands through protein and / or polysaccharide precipitation [cf. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. For example, an aluminum chlorohydrate that corresponds to the formula [A! 2 (OH) sC]] * 2.5 H2O and whose use is particularly preferred is available under the brand Locron® from Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG. J.Pharm.Pharmacol. 26, 531 (1975)]. In addition to the chlorohydrates, aluminum hydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can also be used. Esterase inhibitors can be added as further deodorant active ingredients. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Dusseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. The cleavage of the citric acid ester probably releases the free acid, which lowers the pH value on the skin to such an extent that the enzymes are inhibited. Other substances which are suitable esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid, adipic acid ethyl ester, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester. Antibacterial agents that influence the bacterial flora and kill sweat-killing bacteria or inhibit their growth can also be contained in the stick preparations. Examples include chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophen-oxy) phenol, which is marketed under the Irgasan® brand by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proven to be particularly effective. Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP-B1 0693471;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

• esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-pfιenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (oc-tocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP-A1 0818450;

Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

• Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP-B1 0694521.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts; • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate are also suitable for this purpose. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinathion) in very low n compatible dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts , Bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg- Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosol, butyl Butylhydroxy anisole, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and those suitable according to the invention Derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are

• glycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

• Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars, such as glucamine.

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance. N, N-diethyl-m-touluamide, 1, 2-pentanediol or Insect repellent 3535 are suitable as insect repellents, and dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxy

n ethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methyl phenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, the jonones, oc-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone the alcohols anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro-myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarine oil, cycloalene oil, allyl oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil, orange oil oil , Muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Examples 1 to 4, comparative examples V1 to V4. 8 course shampoos were produced and their hair cosmetic properties examined:

The dry combability was examined with the approval of the electrostatic charge. A relative humidity of 20% was set. The conditioning time was 12 h at 30 ° C. The measurement was carried out using the charge tapping on a double Faraday cage after 10 combs. The error in the measurements was 2.5% on average, the statistical certainty was at least 99.9%.

Wet combability was investigated on brown hair (Alkinco # 6634, strand length 12 cm, strand mass 1 g). After the zero measurement, the strands were soaked with 100 ml of the test formulations. After a contact time of 5 minutes, the strands were rinsed out under running water (1 l / min, 38 ° C.) for 1 minute. The strands were measured again and compared with the zero measurement. The error in the measurements was 2% on average, the statistical certainty was at least 99%. A detailed description of the measurement methods can be found in J.Soc.Cosm.Chem., 24, 782 (1973). The results are shown in Table 1.

To determine the flexural strength, a strand of hair was treated with a 1% strength by weight test solution, stored between two points and loaded with a weight of 150 g of water (standard = 100%) in the middle. The weight was increased until the hair strand was bent and the result was given relative to the standard.

The results are summarized in Table 1; Examples 1 to 4 are according to the invention, Examples V1 to V4 are used for comparison.

Table 1

Hair cosmetic examinations

Table 2

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)

(1-4) hair conditioner, (5-6) hair treatment, (7-8) shower bath, (9) shower gel, (10) washing lotion Table 2

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) ■ continued

(11-14) “Two-m-One” shower bath, (15-20) shampoo Table 2

Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%) • continued 2

(21-25) bubble bath, (26) soft cream, (27, 29) moisturizing emulsion, (28, 30) night cream

Claims

claims

1. Containing cosmetic preparations

(a) fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates and

(b) cationic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic polymers.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates of the formula (I),

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x is an average of 1 to 3 and AO is a CH2CH2O-, CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 0- and / or CH ( CH ₃ ) CH ₂ 0 radical and X represents an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that they contain the fatty acid polyglycol ester sulfates in amounts of 0.1 to 30 wt .-% - based on the agent.

4. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain cationic polymers which are selected from the group formed by cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starches, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers , Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine, copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, polyaminopolyationsylamides, diaminodhalogenamides with diaminopolyamides, bisaminophalamides, and polyaminopolyation amides with bisaminophenamides, Gum and ammonium salt polymers.

5. Composition according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and / or nonionic polymers which are selected from the group formed by degradation products of animal or vegetable polypeptides, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid Copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and crosslinked with polyols, polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octyl acrylamyl / methyl acrylate / octyl acrylamyl / methyl acrylate / octyl acrylamyl / methyl acrylate / noethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacryla vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Agents according to at least one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain the polymers in amounts of 0.1 to 70% by weight, based on the agents.