Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/042—Gels
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L3/00—Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
  • C08L3/02—Starch; Degradation products thereof, e.g. dextrin
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L3/00—Compositions of starch, amylose or amylopectin or of their derivatives or degradation products
  • C08L3/04—Starch derivatives, e.g. crosslinked derivatives
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
  • C08L5/00—Compositions of polysaccharides or of their derivatives not provided for in groups C08L1/00 or C08L3/00
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a solid aqueous gel, a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising such a gel and their use in the cosmetic field, in particular for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.
• Products in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of make-up, of sticks or “sticks” of lipstick, foundation or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, depigmenting, make-up removing or moisturizing sticks or "sticks”; in the field of hygiene, deodorant sticks, sticks or foam bars for shaving or for washing the skin.
• makeup products are generally formulated on the one hand on the basis of an oily phase for reasons of comfort and softness and on the other hand on a pulverulent phase which provides the desired color.
• This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments and / or fillers and / or nacres.
• the fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or oils and / or pasty compounds.
• the sticks formulated based on waxes have certain disadvantages: they have a fatty character which is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness on application. In addition, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents into it.
• a makeup product in particular, that the removal of the product be carried out in an ideal manner, that is to say, allows, in a simple manner, using the finger or a sponge. or even directly on the skin of the body for example, to take not only the quantity of adequate product (not too much not to lose product unnecessarily but enough to ensure a makeup effect) but also to preserve the integrity of the product at the time of its removal: the product must not be broken by a shearing phenomenon, but the entire product must be removed with the pigments and / or pearlescent agents, and / or possibly the fillers, which ensure the function of the makeup. It is only under this condition that the application of the product can be done in a homogeneous manner and that the makeup obtained will be uniform.
• aqueous gels comprising pigments: but we often then observe a phenomenon of sedimentation during manufacture, in particular during the cooling phase.
• the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining with a hydrophilic gelling agent a compound of a particular nature, namely a starch or its derivatives, it was possible to produce solid aqueous gels optionally comprising pigments and / or nacres, these gels can be easily disintegrated with a finger or a sponge or directly on the skin of the face or body and having remarkable cosmetic qualities.
• the present invention therefore relates to a solid aqueous gel comprising i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and ii °) at least one starch or its derivatives.
• the gels according to the invention do not exude, even at low levels of gelling agent, and they do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. They give the application a feeling of great freshness while retaining good cosmetic properties, in particular of softness.
• the gels of the invention have excellent application and disintegration qualities.
• a level of disintegration higher than that of known sticks is obtained, at equivalent hardness.
• Taking the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with a sponge, taking a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin evenly, without the need for wetting prior.
• the gel spreads easily on the skin.
• the makeup obtained is uniform and homogeneous.
• the present invention also relates to a solid composition with an aqueous continuous phase comprising a gel as defined above.
• the present invention also relates to a product for making up the skin or keratin fibers comprising a gel and / or a composition as defined above.
• the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers, consisting in applying to the latter, an aqueous gel and / or a solid composition and / or a make-up product such as defined above.
• the term “gel or solid composition” means a gel or composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging from 5 to 50 grams, at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), after penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the gel matrix or composition at a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / s and removal of said mobile from the gel matrix or composition at a speed of 2 mm / s; the maximum force before rupture being measured with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type sold by the company RHEO.
• the maximum force before rupture ranges from 7 to 40 g.
• the gel according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent.
• gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
• This hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
• - seaweed extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular Na or Ca;
• - gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, beef or fish, caseinates;
• the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan.
• gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET-KELCO or else iota carraghenane sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389 "by FMC.
• the hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a concentration of up to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
• the gel according to the invention also comprises a starch or one of its derivatives.
• the starches and its derivatives which can be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units.
• the number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
• amylose and amylopectin as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the botanical origin of the starches.
• the starches used in the present invention can have, as botanical origin, cereals or tubers.
• the starches are for example chosen from starches of corn, rice, cassava, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, native (that is to say unmodified) or modified.
• modified starches mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a methylol urea derivative or with octenyl succinic anhydride or also with epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of acid, or even starches grafted, for example with sodium polyacrylates, starches coated, for example with amino acids, and / or mixtures thereof.
• Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles of which ranges from 3 to 100 microns. This powder forms a gel when heated.
• starches and derivatives which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of:
• the starch is chosen from rice starch crosslinked with epichlorohydrin and / or corn starch.
• the starch is preferably present in the gel according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.3 to 20%, preferably from 1 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel.
• the gel can also comprise a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
• a pulverulent phase which can comprise fillers, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, as well as pigments and / or nacres.
• fillers it is necessary to understand colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, spherical or non-spherical, intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, mattness and uniformity makeup.
• talc As filler, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon, poly- ⁇ -alanine, polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, oxychloride of bismuth, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, non-deformable silicone resin microbeads, zinc and titanium oxides , zirconium or cerium oxides, calcium carbonate precipitate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Si0 2 / TiO 2
• the fillers may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 40%, more preferably 1-20%,
• pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in the medium, that is to say in the gel, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
• the pigments can be present in an amount of 0-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably in an amount of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual size or nanometric. By nanometric size is meant pigments with an average particle size of 5 to 100 nm.
• the inorganic pigments and nanopigments there may be mentioned titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, nanotitanes, ferric blue.
• the organic pigments there may be mentioned carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a makeup effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, dyes acids such as halo-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes.
• the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes or also with fluorinated compounds. We can thus cite SA pigments from Maprecos or PI pigments from Myoshi.
• the nacres can be present in the gel at a rate of 0-40% by weight, preferably at a rate of 0.1 to 30% and more preferably at a rate of 1-20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel .
• the gels of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
• a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes and eyebrows, the mucous membranes and the semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face.
• the gels according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
• a floral water such as blueberry water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
• the gels according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.
• the gels according to the invention comprise up to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 20 to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the gel, of water.
• the gels according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C- ⁇ -C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.
• solvents other than water for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C- ⁇ -C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.
• salts which will increase this rigidity.
• These salts can be chosen from the mono-, di- or trivalent metal salts, and more particularly the alkali and alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts.
• the ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as the ⁇ -hydroxy acid salts ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malates) or fruit acids, or the amino acid salts (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate).
• the amount of salt can range from 0.01 to 2% and preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the gel.
• the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sodium sulfate. magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride.
• the gels of the invention can be incorporated into cosmetic compositions and constitute the continuous phase thereof.
• Such compositions can thus comprise a fatty phase which can for example comprise an oil.
• oils which can be used mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, coconut, peanut, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of fatty acids and of polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; fatty acid triglycerides; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsi
• the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention can also comprise other fatty substances, which can be chosen by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, for example in consistency, texture and / or transfer.
• additional fatty substances can be waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, as well as their mixtures.
• waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, Pozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candellila, Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes; hydrogenated oils concrete at 25 ° C, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides concrete at 25 ° C; the waxes of polyethylene and the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; concrete hydrogenated oils at 25 ° C; lanolines; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.
• microcrystalline waxes paraffin, petrolatum, petrolatum, Pozokerite, montan wax
• beeswax lanolin and its derivatives
• Candellila Ouricury, Carnauba and Japanese waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes
• the fatty phase can be present in proportions ranging, for example, up to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better still from 0.5 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, these proportions varying according to selected application.
• Oils or waxes can be introduced into the aqueous phase in the presence of one or more surfactants to ensure better dispersion.
• compositions according to the invention can therefore also contain one or more O / W surfactants or ionic or nonionic cosurfactants, of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 8, usually used in the cosmetic field.
• HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
• the amount of surfactant or cosurfactant preferably ranges from 0.05 to 8% of the total weight of the composition.
• composition can also comprise any additional compound usually used in the cosmetic field.
• complementary compounds can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients that are lipophilic or hydrophilic, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
• the gels and the compositions with an aqueous continuous phase according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods for preparing the sticks, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art.
• the gels and compositions according to the invention may constitute make-up or care products for the skin, in particular the body, the face and / or the scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular the hair, nails, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, or also mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, foundations, eyeshadows, blushes, concealers, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, mascaras, contour pencils eyes, sticks for dyeing or making up locks of hair.
• the amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• a gellan gel is formed in water while heating at 80 ° for 15 min. Then incorporate the starch at 70 ° C for 20 min, then the salt. We wait 10 min then add the pigments. After 10 min, the triethanolamine is incorporated. After 5 min, it is poured hot.
• the hardness of this gel is 30 ⁇ 1.5 g.
• This gel was prepared according to the same method of preparation as in Example 1.
• the hardness of this gel is 17.4 ⁇ 2 g.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• Polymers & Plastics (AREA)
• Organic Chemistry (AREA)
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• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Dermatology (AREA)
• Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

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• 1999
  • 1999-06-18 FR FR9907770A patent/FR2795081A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
• 2000
  • 2000-06-13 MX MXPA01001680A patent/MXPA01001680A/es unknown
  • 2000-06-13 BR BR0006824-1A patent/BR0006824A/pt not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 2000-06-13 AU AU64475/00A patent/AU6447500A/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-06-13 JP JP2001505611A patent/JP2003503316A/ja active Pending
  • 2000-06-13 KR KR1020017002061A patent/KR20010072740A/ko not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2000-06-13 CA CA002340025A patent/CA2340025A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 2000-06-13 EP EP00951580A patent/EP1112320A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 2000-06-13 WO PCT/FR2000/001632 patent/WO2000078857A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation

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