EP0966265A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least an amidoethercarboxylic acid surfactant and at least a cationic polymer /anionic polymer combination - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials, in particular hair comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least an amidoethercarboxylic acid surfactant and at least a cationic polymer/anionic polymer combination. Said compositions are particularly useful as rinsing products for washing and for maintaining coiffure or hairstyling.

Description

 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SURFACTANT

AMIDOETHERCARBOXYLIC ACID AND AT LEAST ONE ASSOCIATION

OF AN ANIONIC POLYMER AND CATIONIC POLYMER

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one surfactant amidoethercarboxylic acid and at least one combination of at least one non-crosslinked anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer.

In the prior art, compositions are known, in particular non-rinsed hair compositions comprising an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer. These compositions have good styling properties. However, when these combinations of polymers are used in rinsed compositions such as shampoos, the styling properties of these compositions are not satisfactory. Thus, patent FR2 383 660 has already combined an alkyl ether carboxylate surfactant with a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer. On the one hand, the styling properties are not satisfactory, on the other hand, the foaming power of such a composition is insufficient.

The aim is to obtain cosmetic compositions which are capable of providing the hair with styling, volume, shaping and hold properties while having good cosmetic properties such as softness, feel or detangling, as well as '' sufficient foaming power to use them as a shampoo composition.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by combining at least one alkylamidoethercarboxylic acid surfactant or its salts with at least one association of an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, the styling, volume, shaping and of hair holding were substantially superior to those obtained with the surfactants of the prior art used in combination with the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.

The composition according to the invention is therefore essentially characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one surfactant amidoethercarboxylic acid or its salts and at least one combination of at least one non-crosslinked anionic polymer and of at least one cationic polymer.

The invention also relates to the use of the composition described above for styling or shaping the hair.

The amidoether carboxylic acid surfactant generally has the following formula (I):

O II RCN - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) - CH ₂ COOM (I) ^R2 in which R- _| denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having from 5 to 23 carbon atoms or a phenyl radical substituted by an alkyl radical having from 6 to 10 carbon atoms. R- | preferably denotes an alkyl radical having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.

R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n CH ₂ COOM or - (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m and preferably a hydrogen atom ; n and m, identical or different, represent a number between 1 and 20, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly between 1 and 5.

M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal (for example Na ⁺ , K ⁺ ), NH4 ⁺ , the ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline or alternatively among amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine, 3-amino-propanediol-1,2. These amidoether carboxylic acid compounds are described in particular in patent applications EP-A-699,435 and EP-A-102,118.

A particularly preferred amido ether carboxylic surfactant is the sodium salt of formula:

O II CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₁₀ - C-NH- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) -CH ₂ COONa in which na has an average value of 3.

Such a compound is for example marketed under the name AKYPOFOAM 30 BV by the company CHEM Y.

According to the invention, any non-crosslinked or cationic anionic polymer known per se can be used. These polymers can be used in dissolved form or in the form of dispersions of solid polymer particles.

The non-crosslinked anionic polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a weight-average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5,000,000.

1) The carboxylic groups are provided by mono or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula:

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via of a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group lower, a group -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl; In the above formula a lower alkyl radical preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular, methyl and ethyl.

The anionic polymers with carboxylic groups preferred according to the invention are: A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL E or K by the company ALLIED COLLOID and ULTRAHOLD by BASF. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN 421, 423 or 425 by the company Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid. These copolymers can be grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,222,944 and German application 2,330,956. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers comprising in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or proposed under the name QUADRAMER by the company AMERICAN CYANAMID. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and of terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of (meth) acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl (meth) acrylate, for example of lauryl (such as that sold by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE LM), tert-butyl (LUVIFLEX VBM 70 marketed by BASF) or methyl (STEPANHOLD EXTRA sold by STEPAN) and the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / acrylate terpolymers tert-butyl such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER 100 P by the company BASF.

C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described inter alia in French patents 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. Commercial products falling into this class are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

D) copolymers derived from C ₄ -C ₈ monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from:

- the copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenyl vinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified; Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113, GB patent 839,805 and in particular those marketed under the names GANTREZ AN or ES, AVANTAGE CP by the company ISP.

- the copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin group, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic or vinylpyrrolidone acids in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are for example described in French patents 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant.

E) polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups.

The polymers comprising the sulfonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene sulfonic, naphthalene sulfonic or acrylamido alkylsulfonic units.

These polymers can in particular be chosen from:

- the salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a weight average molecular weight of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000 as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, ethers vinyl and vinylpyrrolidone.

the salts of polystyrene sulfonic acid the sodium salts having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 500,000 and approximately 100,000 sold respectively under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2,198,719.

the salts of polyacrylamide sulfonic acids, those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631 and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropane sulfonic acid sold under the name COSMEDIA POLYMER HSP 1180 by Henkel.

According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers marketed in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / tert-butyl terpolymers vinyl benzoate / crotonic acid and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides. itaconic with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as the methyl ester / maleic anhydride copolymers sold for example under the name GANTREZ by the company ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate marketed under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, methacrylic acid / methyl methacrylate / C1-C4 alkyl acrylate / acrylic acid or C1- hydroxyalkyl methacrylate copolymers C4 marketed in the form of dispersions under the name AMERHOLD DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL or under the name ACUDYNE 255 by the company ROHM & HAAS, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate marketed under the name LUVIMER MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol under the name ARISTOFLEX A by the company BASF, homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid sold for example under the name VERSICOL E 5.

The most particularly preferred non-crosslinked anionic polymers are chosen from the methyl ester / maleic anhydride mono esterified copolymers marketed under the name GANTREZ ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tertiobutylacrylamide terpolymers marketed under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate marketed under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the vinyl acetate / tert-butyl vinyl benzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid terpolymers / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate marketed under the name LUVIMER MAEX OR MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate terpolymers marketed under the name ACRYLIDONE LM by ISP and the homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid sold, for example, under the name VERSICOL E 5.

According to the invention, anionic polymers can also be used in the form of latex or pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of particles of insoluble polymers.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use anionic polymers of the grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer the other being grafted on the said main channel. These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-A- 0 412 704, EP-A-0412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037.

Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers capable of being obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers consisting of: a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate; b) 1 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula:

CH, = (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃

with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers. A family of silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which are particularly suitable for implementing the present invention consists of silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following formula of formula (III):

(-Si-0-) _a - - (- Si-0-) _b - ^• (-Si-o-) _c - (G ₂ ) -SG ₃ G, (G ₂ ) ^ - SG ₄

(III)

in which the radicals d, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a Cι-C ₁₀ alkyl radical or else a phenyl radical; the radicals G ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent represents a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkylene group; G ₃ represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 and 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the motif of formula (III) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:

- The radicals G ₁ denote a C _r C ₁₀ alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;

- n is not zero, and the radicals G ₂ represent a divalent radical in Cι-C ₃ , preferably a propylene radical; - G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

- G ₄ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the alkyl (meth) acrylate type CC ^., Preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate. Preferably, the motif of formula (III) above can also contain all of the following characteristics:

- the radicals G-i denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;

- n is not zero, and the radicals G ₂ represent a divalent radical in CrC ₃ , preferably a propylene radical;

- G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

- c is zero.

Examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly (meth) type. ) alkyl acrylate such as isobutyl poly (meth) acrylate.

Particularly used are the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) of polymethyl / methylsiloxane structure with propyl thio-3 polymethacrylic acid groups and methyl propyl thio-3 polymethacrylate groups and the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) of polymethyl / methylsiloxane structure with propyl thio-3 polyacrylic acid groups.

The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se, in particular those described in patent application EP-A- 0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing cationic groups or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, and preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.

A family of cationic polymers is that of cationic silicone polymers. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned:

(a) the silicone polymers corresponding to the following formula (IV):

R ⁶ _a G ⁵ ₃ -a-Si (OSiG ⁶ ₂ ) _n - (OSiG ⁷ _b R ⁷ ₂ -b) m-0-SiG ⁸ 3- _a -R ⁸ a '(IV)

in which :

G ⁵ , G ⁶ , G ⁷ and G ^{8, which may be} identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, for example methyl, C ₂ -C ₈ alkenyl, or C 1 alkoxy C18 a, a ', identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to

3, in particular 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can vary in particular from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; R ⁶ , R ⁷ , R ⁸ , identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula - C _q H _2q O _s R ⁹ _t L in which q is a number from 1 to 8, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, R ⁹ denotes an optionally hydroxylated alkylene group and L is an optionally quaternized amine group chosen from the groups:

-NR "-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N '(R") ₂

-N (R ") ₂

-N ^Θ (R ") ₃ A ^"

-N ^Θ H (R ") ₂ A ^"

-N ^® H ₂ (R ") A ^"

-N (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ^® R" H ₂ A ^" ,

in which R "can denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example an alkyl radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and A ^" represents a halide ion such as for example fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide .

Products corresponding to this definition are for example the polysiloxanes named in the CTFA dictionary "amodimethicone" and corresponding to the following formula (V):

wherein x 'and y "are whole numbers depending on the molecular weight, generally such that said molecular weight is between 5,000 and 20,000 approximately;

A product corresponding to formula (IV) is the polymer named in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the formula:

in which n and m have the meanings given above (cf. formula IV).

A commercial product meeting this definition is a mixture (90/10 by weight) of a polydimethylsiloxane containing aminoethyl aminoisobutyl groups and of a polydimethylsiloxane marketed under the name Q2-8220 by the company Dow Corning.

Such polymers are described for example in patent application EP-A-95238.

Other polymers corresponding to formula (IV) are the silicone polymers corresponding to the following formula (VI): (VI)

in which :

R ₁₀ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and especially alkyl Cι C ₈ alkenyl or C ₂ -Cι _8, for example methyl;

R ₁ 1 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Cι-Cι ₈ , for example in C Cs;

Q ^" is a halide ion, in particular chloride; r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to

50.

Such polymers are described more particularly in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

b- the compounds of formula: NH - [(CH ₂ ) ₃ -Si [OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ ]] ₃ corresponding to the name CTFA "aminobispropyldimethicone".

A polymer belonging to this class is the polymer marketed by the Union Carbide Company under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56.

When these silicone polymers are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. It is possible, for example, to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (VII):

in which R ₁₂ denotes alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from tallow fatty acids, in association with a nonionic surfactant of formula:

CgHi9-C6H ₄ - (OC ₂ H ₄ ) ιo-OH known under the name "Nonoxynol 10".

Another commercial product which can be used according to the invention is the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the Dow Corning Company comprising in combination trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (IV), a nonionic surfactant of formula: C ₈ Hι ₇ -C ₆ H ₄ - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH where n = 40 also called octoxynol-40, another nonionic surfactant of formula: Cι ₂ H ₂₅ - (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) n- OH where n = 6 also called isolaureth-6, and glycol.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide, quaternary polyammonium type, which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French patents No. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997.

(1) The vinylpyrrolidone-acrylate or dialkylamino-alkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat®" by the company ISP, such as for example Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100 or the product called "Copolymer 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573.

(2) The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethyl ammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethyl ammonium or dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The products marketed meeting this definition are more particularly the products marketed under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307 and more particularly the product sold under the name "Jaguar C.13 S" sold by the company MEYHALL.

(5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361;

(6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or even by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amino group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary, quaternized amine functions. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508;

(7) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of the adip.que-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyloyldialoylene triamine acid polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, there may be mentioned more particularly the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amino group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1, 8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylene-triamine.

(9) methyl diallyl amino or diallyl dimethyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (VIII) or (VIII '):

formulas in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Rι ₃ and R ₄ , independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group or R ₁₃ and Rι ₄ may denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y ^" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. Mention may be made, for example, of the homopolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company MERCK and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550".

(10) the quaternary diammonium polymer containing scouring units corresponding to formula (IX):

formula (IX) in which:

R ₁₆ , R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ and R ₁₉ , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R ₁₆ , R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ and R ₁₉ , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R ₁₆ , R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ and R ₁₉ represent a C _r C alkyl radical ₆ linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₂₀ -D or -CO-NH-R ₂₀ -D group where R ₂₀ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

A- _| and B- _| represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxylated, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X ^" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R ₁₆ and R ₁₈ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition if Aj denotes an alkylene radical or hydroxyalkylene, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B- _] can also denote a group (CH2) _n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) _n -

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0) x-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0] _y -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazi derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the bivalent radical -CHo-CHo-S-S-CHo-CH '2,'

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X ^" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents

2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378 ,

3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627,

4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020. (11) quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (X):

(X)

formula in which:

R21, R22, R23 and R _24, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH _{2) p} OH, where p is 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₂₁ , R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ and R ₂₄ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are whole numbers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

X denotes a halogen atom,

A ₃ denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH -CH -0 -CH ₂ -CH -.

Such compounds are in particular described in patent application EP-A-122 324.

Mention may for example be made, among these, of the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol-

(12) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and comprising units:

in which the groups R ₃₀ independently denote H or CH ₃ , the groups A ₂ independently denote a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the groups R ₂₅ , R ₂₆ , R ₂₇ , identical or different, independently denoting an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, the groups R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms ,

X ₂ ^" denotes an anion, for example methosulfate or halide, such as chloride or bromide.

The comonomer (s) which can be used in the preparation of the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted with nitrogen by lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters.

(13) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF. (14) Polyamines such as Polyquart H marketed by HENKEL, referenced under the name of "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(15) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) can more particularly be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of "SALCARE SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name of “SALCARE® SC 95” by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, polyamine and epichlorohydrin condensates, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cyclopolymers, in particular copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide having a molecular weight greater than 500,000, sold under the names "MERQUAT® 550" and "MERQUAT® S" by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly the polymer sold under the name "JAGUAR® C13S" by the company MEYHALL, and the polyaminoamides of the family (6) described above.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use cationic polymers in the form of latex or of pseudolatex, that is to say in the form of a dispersion of particles of insoluble polymers.

According to the invention, the anionic polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight , of the total weight of the final composition.

According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight , of the total weight of the final composition.

According to the invention, the amido ether carboxylic acid surfactant (s) may represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight. weight, the total weight of the final composition.

The ratio of cationic charge of the cationic polymer (s) / anionic charge of the anionic polymer (s) expressed in meq./g is generally between 0.25 and 5, preferably between 0.5 and 2 and even more preferably between 0.75 and 1.25.

The cationic charge is the number of quaternary, tertiary, secondary or primary amine atoms per gram of polymer.

The cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium preferably consists of water or a mixture of water and cosmetically or solvents dermatologically acceptable such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers or fatty acid esters, which can be used alone or as a mixture.

Mention may more particularly be made of lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, polyalcohols such as diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, alkyl ethers of glycol or of diethylene glycol.

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from sequestering agents, softeners, foam modifiers, dyes, pearlescent agents, hydrating agents, anti-dandruff or anti-seborrhoeic agents, setting agents. suspension, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains Ci ₆ -C ₀ , hydroxy acids, electrolytes, thickeners, fatty acid esters, fatty acid and glycerol esters, silicone, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, non-ionic polymers, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is easily determined by those skilled in the art.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, more or less thickened lotion or foam. The compositions according to the invention are generally used as products, in particular for washing, caring for, conditioning, maintaining the hairstyle or shaping keratin materials such as the hair.

The compositions of the invention can more particularly be in the form of shampoo, conditioner to rinse or not, compositions for perm, hair straightening, coloring or discoloration, or also in the form of compositions to be applied before or after coloring , discoloration, perm or straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening. Preferably, the compositions are washing compositions.

The compositions according to the invention, when they are in particular in the form of washing compositions such as shampoos comprise a washing base, generally aqueous.

The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants.

The minimum amount of washing base is that just sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.

Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkyl aryl polyether sulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkyl sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyl amido sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfo succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ether acids, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Non-ionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of groups ethylene oxide or propylene oxide which may range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which may range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, oxide condensates ethylene and propylene on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (Cι ₀ -Cu) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s): The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, may in particular be (non-limiting list) of derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C ₈ -C ₂ o) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C Ce) beta ^' ines or (C ₈ -C ₂ o) alkyl amidoalkyl (CrC ₆ ) sulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products marketed under the name Miranol, as described in patents US-2528378 and US-2781354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures:

R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (R ₃ ) (R ₄ ) (CH ₂ COO-) (2) in which: R ₂ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₂ -COOH present in coconut oil hydrolyzed, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R ₃ denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R denotes a carboxymethyl group; and

R ₂ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (3) in which:

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX \ C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y ', with z = 1 or 2, X' denotes the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes - COOH or the radical -CH ₂ - CHOH - S0 ₃ H

R ₂ ′ denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R ₉ -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C ₇ , C ₉ , Cn or C ₁₃ , a radical C- alkyl | ₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C-ι ₇ radical.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphocarboxyglycinate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C ₂ M concentrated by the company MIRANOL.

(iv) Cationic Surfactants: Among the cationic surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines , optionally polyoxyalkylated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of a cationic nature. When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the hair, which consists in applying a composition to them as defined above and then optionally rinsing with water.

The invention will now be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described. In what follows, MA stands for Active Matter.

EXAMPLE 1

We prepared two shampoos of the following composition

Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of slightly bleached hair previously wet. The shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water. The locks of hair are dried at 60 ° C for 30 min. The procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.

A panel of experts evaluated the hardening of dried hair. The purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 2 samples according to an increasing or decreasing function of the curing efficiency. The 2 wicks of the same series are presented simultaneously to the judge. We ask him to classify them from the most hardened to the least hardened. The statistical analysis of the results is carried out using the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963).

Results:

Conclusion:

The locks treated with composition A according to the invention containing the alkylamidoethercarboxylic surfactant are significantly more cured (at the threshold of 5%) than those treated with the composition containing the surfactant of the prior art.

EXAMPLE 2

A shampoo of the following composition was prepared:

Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of slightly bleached hair previously wet. The shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water. The locks of hair are dried at 60 ° C for 30 min. The procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.

A panel of experts evaluated the hardening of dried hair. The purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 2 samples according to an increasing or decreasing function of the curing efficiency. The 2 wicks of the same series are presented simultaneously to the judge. We ask him to classify them from the most hardened to the least hardened. The statistical analysis of the results is carried out using the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963).

Results:

Conclusion:

The locks treated with composition A according to the invention containing the alkylamidoethercarboxylic surfactant are significantly more cured (at the threshold of 5%) than those treated with the composition containing the surfactant of the prior art.

EXAMPLE 3

The following shampoo composition was prepared

- sodium salt of formula:

O 14 gMA II CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₁₀ - C-NH- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) -CH ₂ COONa in which na has an average value of 3. (AKYPOFOAM 30 BV from CHEM Y)

- Alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₁ ) polyglucoside (1, 4) in aqueous solution at 40% MA (KAG 40 from KAO) 3 gMA

Polyacrylic acid in 25% aqueous solution from MA (VERSICOL E 5 from ALLIED COLLOID) 1 gMA

- Homopolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in aqueous solution at 40% of MA 1, 43 gMA (MERQUAT 100 of CALGON)

- NaOH qs pH 8

- NaCI 2 g

- Perfume, preservative qs

- Demineralized water qs 100 g

Hair washed with this shampoo has good styling properties, on the other hand, the foaming power of such a composition is good.

Claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for the treatment of keratinous substances, characterized in that it comprises in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium at least one surfactant amidoethercarboxylic acid or its salts and at least one combination of at least one nonionic anionic polymer crosslinked and at least one cationic polymer.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the amidoether carboxylic acid surfactant has the following formula (I):

O

II R _r CN - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) -CH ₂ COOM (I)

R ₂ in which Rj denotes an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, having from 5 to 23 carbon atoms or a phenyl radical substituted by an alkyl radical having from 6 to 10 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n CH ₂ COOM, - (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _m ; n and m, identical or different, represent a number between 1 and 20;

M denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, NH4 ⁺ , ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids or even from amino alcohols.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that R- | denotes an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 16; R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom; n represents a number between 1 and 10 and more particularly between 1 and 5.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-crosslinked anionic polymer is chosen from: - polymers comprising carboxylic units derived from mono or unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers of formula:

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a -CH2 group -COOH, phenyl or benzyl. - polymers comprising units derived from sulfonic acid such as vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, acrylamido alkylsulfonic units.

5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the anionic polymer is chosen from:

A) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their salts, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted on a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol; copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and the vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate in

C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those comprising in their chain units vinyl acetate or propionate and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted.

D) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters; copolymers of maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide, methacrylamide group, an α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, anhydride functions are monoesterified or monoamidified.

E) polyacrylamides containing carboxylate groups.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the anionic polymer is chosen from:

- homopolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; - acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer;

- copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butyl benzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers; - polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methyl vinyl ether / mono ester anhydride copolymers.

- copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate;

- copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate; - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate terpolymers;

- vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers

- vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / polyethylene glycol terpolymers.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the anionic polymer is chosen from anionic polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, the one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer the other being grafted onto said main chain.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the grafted silicone polymer is chosen from silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following motif of formula (III):

G, G,

(-Si - O -) - (-Si-0-) _b (- Si-o—) - (G ₂ ) _n -SG, G, (G ₂ ) ^ SG ₄

(III)

in which the radicals Gi, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 10 -C 10 alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G ₂ , which may be identical or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkylene group; G ₃ represents a polymer residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G ₄ represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 and 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the unit of formula (III) has at least one of the following characteristics:

- Gi radicals denote a Cι-C ₁₀ alkyl radical;

- n is not zero, and the radicals G ₂ represent a divalent radical in Cι-C ₃ ;

- G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation;

- G represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl (meth) acrylate type;

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the unit of formula (III) simultaneously has the following characteristics:

- the radicals d denote a methyl radical;

- n is not zero, and the radicals G ₂ represent a propylene radical; - G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least acrylic acid and or methacrylic acid;

- G ₄ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate.

11- Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the unit of formula (III) has at least one of the following characteristics:

- the radicals d denote a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl radical;

- n is not zero, and the radicals G ₂ represent a divalent radical in Cι-C ₃ ;

- G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation; c is equal to 0.

12- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cellulose copolymers with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cyclopolymers, polysaccharides cationic, cationic silicone polymers, copolymers vinylpyrrolidone-acrylate or dialkylamino-alkyl methacrylate, quaternized or not, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole quaternary polymers, polyamidoamines and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amidoethercarboxylic acid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0, 5 to 20% by weight and more particularly from 1 to 15% by weight.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the cationic polymer is present in a concentration ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight. weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the anionic polymer is used in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.05 to 15% by weight and even more preferably 0.1% to 7% by weight.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one additive chosen from sequestering agents, softeners, foam modifiers, dyes, pearlescent agents, agents moisturizers, dandruff or anti-seborrhoeic agents, suspending agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains Ci ₆ -C o, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, thickeners, esters of fatty acids, fatty acid and glycerol esters, silicone, surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, non-ionic polymers, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium consists of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable solvent.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the keratin materials are hair.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, milk, cream, more or less thickened lotion or foam.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a hair product chosen from the group consisting of shampoos; hair products to rinse or not, to apply before or after shampooing, coloring, bleaching, perming or straightening.

21. Cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, in particular hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 20, then in optionally rinsing with water. 'water.