EP0966259A1 - Triple emulsion containing a solar protecting system - Google Patents

Triple emulsion containing a solar protecting system

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Publication number
EP0966259A1
EP0966259A1 EP98942807A EP98942807A EP0966259A1 EP 0966259 A1 EP0966259 A1 EP 0966259A1 EP 98942807 A EP98942807 A EP 98942807A EP 98942807 A EP98942807 A EP 98942807A EP 0966259 A1 EP0966259 A1 EP 0966259A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
emulsion
derivatives
emulsion according
weight
filters
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP98942807A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Delphine Allard
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP0966259A1 publication Critical patent/EP0966259A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/066Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90Block copolymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/107Emulsions ; Emulsion preconcentrates; Micelles
    • A61K9/113Multiple emulsions, e.g. oil-in-water-in-oil
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to triple cosmetic / dermatological emulsions of the water / oil / water type comprising a discontinuous fatty phase containing as water / oil emulsifier at least one block copolymer consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and d '' a polymer sequence derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkylene glycol and a photoprotective system capable of filtering UV rays (UV-A and / or UV-B)
  • UV-A rays of wavelengths between 320 nm and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of inducing an alteration of the latter, in particular in the case of a sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation.
  • UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity in the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in certain subjects and can even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.
  • the term “photoprotective system capable of filtering UV radiation” is generally intended to denote any compound or any combination of compounds which, by known mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion of UV-A and / or UV-B radiation, makes it possible to prevent, or at least limit, the contacting of said radiation with a surface (skin, hair,) on which this or these compounds have been applied.
  • the compounds targeted by the present invention are both organic UV-absorbing photoprotective filters and
  • UV-A and / or UV-B photoprotection
  • sunscreen compositions are quite often in the form of an emulsion, of the oil-in-water type (that is to say a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable support consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed fatty phase) or water-in-oil (aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase), which contains, at various concentrations, one or more conventional organic filters, lipophilic and / or hydrophilic, capable of selectively absorbing radiation Harmful UV rays, these filters (and their quantities) being selected according to the sun protection factor sought (the sun protection factor (SPF) expressed mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the filter UV at the time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter).
  • the sun protection factor the sun protection factor (SPF) expressed mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the filter UV at the time necessary to reach the erythemat
  • the sunscreen compositions in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion may contain pigments and / or mineral nanopigments (that is to say pigments with an average size of the primary particles generally does not exceed 100 nm) based on metal oxides, and in particular titanium oxide. They are more and more sought after taking into account the fact that the latter substances, when they are associated with conventional UV filters (mainly organic compounds capable of absorbing harmful radiation) make it possible to obtain very high protection indices. These nanopigments can be present both in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and in its fatty phase.
  • Oil-in-water emulsions are, in general, more appreciated by the consumer than water-in-oil emulsions, in particular because of their pleasant feel (close to water) and their presentation in the form of non-fat milk or cream; however, they also more easily lose their effectiveness in UV protection when they come into contact with water; in fact, hydrophilic filters, particularly acid filters, disappear in water, by swimming in the sea or in a swimming pool, in the shower or during the practice of water sports; thus, the sun compositions which contain them, alone or combined with lipophilic filters, no longer provide the initial protection sought when the substrate (skin or hair) on which they have been applied comes into contact with water, this loss in protection index by elimination of the hydrophilic filter with water, being all the more marked when the lipophilic-hydrophilic filtering association, present in the composition, is synergistic at the level of the sun protection factor.
  • Sunscreen compositions having improved SPF and water resistance can be available by using water-in-oil emulsions. Indeed, a hydrophilic filter is more persistent in water in a water-in-oil emulsion than in an oil-in-water emulsion. However, as indicated above, such compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory insofar as they leave after application an impression of fat which is particularly unpleasant for the user.
  • sunscreen compositions which can contain both hydrophilic filters, lipophilic filters, as well as nanopigments whose SPF would be high, stable in the time and water resistant, whatever the hydrophilic and / or epophilic filters and / or the nanopigments used and whose cosmetic performance would be comparable to that obtained with conventional oil / water emulsions
  • emulsions known as multiples of the water / oil / water (W / O / W) or oil / water / oil (O / W / O) type are known in the prior art.
  • W / O / W emulsions preferably emulsions with an external aqueous phase, namely W / O / W emulsions, which combine the advantages of freshness with application, provided by the water present in the external aqueous phase, and the comfort provided by a quantity relatively large oil
  • W / O / W emulsions which combine the advantages of freshness with application, provided by the water present in the external aqueous phase, and the comfort provided by a quantity relatively large oil
  • W / O emulsifier is meant, within the meaning of the present invention and in the text which follows, any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce water-in-oil emulsions
  • O / W emulsifier is understood, within the meaning of the present invention and in the text which follows, any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce oil-in-water emulsions
  • the stability of the emulsions obtained according to this document is not sufficient to meet the requirements of the products sold and in particular for storage at high temperatures, for example above 40 ° C.
  • Such instability can lead to a W / O emulsion, leading to a loss of the qualities of the multiple emulsion, in particular its quality of freshness on application since the external phase is no longer an aqueous phase
  • This multiple emulsion can also transform into an O / W emulsion, often unstable with oil and water phase shift.
  • these emulsions require a choice of particular oils in large quantities which are not very emollient and are not always well tolerated by the skin and can cause irritation.
  • EP-A-691839 also discloses triple emulsions
  • W / O / W cosmetics comprising a primary W / O emulsion containing in the discontinuous fatty phase as a W / O emulsifier a polyoxyethylenated derivative
  • the subject of the present invention is a triple cosmetic / dermatological emulsion of the W / O / W type, characterized in that it comprises:
  • a discontinuous fatty phase constituting with an internal aqueous phase a W / O primary emulsion, said fatty phase containing as W / O emulsifier at least one block copolymer consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and from a polymer sequence derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkylene glycol;
  • cosmetic or dermatological emulsion within the meaning of the present invention and in the following text, is meant any emulsion in which the external and internal aqueous phases and the discontinuous fatty phase consist of cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable substances for topical application to materials human keratin including skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, nails or mucous membranes.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for protecting the skin and / or hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation, consisting in applying to the latter an effective amount of a composition as defined above.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above as, or for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions for the protection of the skin and / or the hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation.
  • the W / O emulsifiers of the block copolymer type consisting of a polymer block derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and a polymer block derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkyleneglycol correspond to the following general formula: ABA (I)
  • A denotes an oil-soluble monohydroxycarboxylic acid residue having a molecular weight of at least 500 of the following formula:
  • R is hydrogen or a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group
  • R is hydrogen or a monovalent hydrocarbon group at CC 24 ;
  • R 2 a divalent C r C 24 hydrocarbon group
  • p is a number from 1 to 200
  • B denotes a divalent residue of an alkyl glycol or of a polyalkylene glycol having a molecular weight of at least 500 and corresponding to the following formula:
  • radicals R 3 identical or different, represent hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CC 4 ; q is a number from 1 to 100; s is a number from 1 to 17.
  • R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing up to 25 carbon atoms and more preferably a linear chain a linear chain comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, for example derived from oleic, palmitic or stearic acid.
  • the units containing the radicals R 1 and R 2 constitute a linear chain comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and can denote a residue of hydroxyoleic, hydroxy palmitic acid. or hydroxy stearic acid.
  • alkylene glycol and / or polyalkylene glycol groups can be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, other C 4 -C 5 alkyl glycols.
  • B more particularly denotes a residue of polyethylene glycol or of 1,4-butanediol.
  • block copolymers of formula (I) are known per se and are described in particular in patents GB1469591, US4203877 and patent application WO96 / 07689. These same documents describe their preparation methods. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a block copolymer corresponding to formula (I) in which A denotes the remainder of a poly- chain will be used in the discontinuous fatty phase in multiple emulsions.
  • the polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying copolymer comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • the block copolymer sold under the name ARLACEL P135 by the company ICI, the name INCI of which is PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, will be used more particularly.
  • the W / O block copolymer emulsifier is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight.
  • the discontinuous fatty phase of multiple emulsions according to the invention consists of fatty substances chosen from oils, waxes, gums or silicone resins and their mixtures usually used for the preparation of emulsions used in sunscreen compositions.
  • oil By oil is meant a compound which is liquid at room temperature.
  • the term “wax” is intended to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and the melting point of which is generally greater than 35 ° C.
  • oils mention may, for example, be made of mineral oils such as isoparaffins; vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed, jojoba); synthetics such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty acids or esters (octyl paimitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids), fatty esters and ethers oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes or PDMS) or fluorinated oils; poly-alpha-olefins such as hydrogenated or not hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrogenated or not hydrogenated polyisobutylenes.
  • mineral oils such as isoparaffins
  • vegetable oils sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed, jojoba
  • synthetics such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty acids or esters
  • waxy compounds there may be mentioned paraffin, carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the discontinuous fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 40% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
  • the primary W / O emulsion according to the invention is preferably present in an amount ranging from 40 to 80% by weight and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
  • the external aqueous phase preferably contains one or more O / W emulsifiers.
  • O / W emulsifiers Mention may be made of those comprising an oxyethylenated group such as oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, oxyethylenated sterols and their mixtures.
  • O / W emulsifiers could be used and in particular those having an HLB (“Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance”) greater than 10 such as oxyethylenated nonyphenols, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated block polymers such as Poloxamers, fatty esters sorbitan.
  • the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols advantageously have a fatty chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably contain from 20 to 50, and better still from 20 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • oxyethylenated fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned for example the mixture of cetyl / stearyl alcohol, oxyethylenated with 30 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30).
  • the oxyethylenated sterols preferably contain from 10 to 40, and better still from 25 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.
  • oxyethylenated sterols mention may be made of: example soybean sterol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (name
  • polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene block copolymer known under the name CTFA POLXAMER 407 and sold under the trade name SYNPERONIC PE / F127 by the company ICI will be used more particularly.
  • the O / W emulsifiers are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • the process used to prepare the multiple emulsion according to the invention is identical to the process described in document WO-A-94/22414. It consists in mixing the oil or oils and the W / O emulsifier and in introducing into the mixture the internal aqueous phase with vigorous stirring then in introducing the primary emulsion obtained with stirring into the external aqueous phase preferably containing at least one emulsifier O / W until the W / O / W emulsion is obtained.
  • the photo protective system consists of one or more organic hydrophilic UV absorbing filters and / or one or more organic lipophilic UV absorbing filters and / or one or more (nano) mineral pigments.
  • the hydrophilic organic filters can be incorporated in the internal aqueous phase of the primary W / O emulsion and / or in the external aqueous phase of the triple emulsion.
  • They are in particular chosen from benzophenone derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives or also from benzimidazole derivatives.
  • hydrophilic organic filters particularly usable in the present invention there may be mentioned benzene acid 1, 4-di (3-methylidene-10- camphorsulfonic acid) and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid sold under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by the company Merck.
  • the hydrophilic organic filter or filters can be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can vary from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the lipophilic organic filters can be present in the discontinuous fatty phase of the triple emulsion. They can be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate derivatives, derivatives p-aminobenzoic acid, the screening polymers and the screening silicones described in applications WO-93/04665 and WO-94/06404. Other examples of organic filters are given in patent application EP-A-0487404.
  • lipophilic organic filters which can be particularly used in the present invention, mention may be made of 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane sold under the trade name "PARSOL 1789” by the company GIVAUDAN, octylmethoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "PARSOL MCX By GIVAUDAN and 2-ethylhexyl -cyano- ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate sold under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by the company BASF.
  • the lipophilic organic filter or filters may be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can vary from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a second category of photoprotective agents which are particularly suitable for multiple emulsions according to the invention is that of pigments.
  • nanopigments are used (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 and 50 nm) metallic oxide minerals coated or not, such as for example titanium oxide nanopigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all well known photoprotective agents acting by physical blocking
  • EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773 are examples of EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.
  • the mineral (nano) pigment (s) may be present in the compositions according to the invention at a content of between 0.1% and 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can also contain thickeners.
  • the thickeners can be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, fatty chain polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropylated guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
  • the thickener (s) may be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions according to the invention may also contain artificial tanning and / or browning agents for the skin (self-tanning agents), such as for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological adjuvants in particular chosen from organic solvents, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, ⁇ - hydroxy acids, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, sequestrants, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents, dyes, or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field, in particular for the manufacture of sunscreen compositions in the form of emulsions.
  • conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological adjuvants in particular chosen from organic solvents, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, ⁇ - hydroxy acids, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, sequestrants, polymers
  • composition obtained remains stable on storage after 2 months at room temperature and at temperatures above 40 ° C.
  • a sunscreen emulsion of the W / O / W type identical to that of the example is prepared but in which the product ARLACEL P135 has been replaced by a polyoxyethylenated derivative (2.5 moles of ethylene oxide) and polyoxypropylenated (1, 5 moles of propylene oxide) of a mixture of glycerol esters and sorbitol of hydroxystearic and isosteahic acids sold under the name ARLACEL 780 by ICI.
  • the concentration of the W / O emulsifier is identical to that used in Example 1.
  • a conventional sunscreen O / W emulsion is prepared having the following composition:
  • the measurement of the sun protection factor was carried out according to the following method (in vivo): these formulations were applied, at a rate of 2 mg of product / cm 2 of skin, on the back of 5 human models, then we subjected simultaneously the protected areas and the unprotected areas of skin with the action of a solar simulator marketed under the name of "Xenon Multiport WG 320-UG 1 1"; the sun protection factor (SPF) was then calculated mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time that was necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter (protected area) at the time that was necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without filter
  • the SPF of each formulation is determined on areas of skin treated with each of them and which have not undergone a bath.
  • the SPF of each formulation is also determined on areas of skin treated with each of them and having undergone two baths; each bath for 20 minutes and the two baths being spaced 20 minutes apart.
  • a sensory test is carried out on a panel of 10 people by applying each of the emulsions of Examples 1 and 3 at a rate of 0.2 g to the skin of each forearm.
  • the following criteria were studied: - Ease of application

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Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion of the water/oil/water type (E/H/E), characterised in that it comprises: (a) an outer aqueous phase and (b) a discontinuous fatty phase constituting with an inner aqueous phase a primary water/oil emulsion (E/H), said fatty phase containing as lipophilic emulsifier at least a copolymer block consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and of a polymer sequence derived from an alkylglycol or from a polyalkyleneglycol; (c) at least a solar protection system capable of filtering UV rays (UV-A and/or UV-B). The invention also concerns uses of said emulsion in and for preparing cosmetic or dermatological compositions for solar protection of the skin or of the hair.

Description

EMULSIONS TRIPLES CONTENANT UN SYSTEME PHOTOPROTECTEUR TRIPLE EMULSIONS CONTAINING A PHOTOPROTECTIVE SYSTEM
La présente invention concerne des émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques triple du type eau/huile/eau comportant une phase grasse discontinue contenant comme émulsionnant eau/huile au moins un copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxy- carboxylique et d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol et un système photoprotecteur capable de filtrer les rayons UV (UV-A et/ou UV-B)The present invention relates to triple cosmetic / dermatological emulsions of the water / oil / water type comprising a discontinuous fatty phase containing as water / oil emulsifier at least one block copolymer consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and d '' a polymer sequence derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkylene glycol and a photoprotective system capable of filtering UV rays (UV-A and / or UV-B)
On sait que les radigtions lumineuses de longueurs d'onde comprises entre 280 nm et 400 nm permettent le brunissement de l'épiderme humain et que les rayons de longueurs d'onde comprises entre 280 nm et 320 nm, connus sous la dénomination d'UV-B, provoquent des érythèmes et des brûlures cutanées qui peuvent nuire au développement du bronzage naturel ; ce rayonnement UV-B doit donc être filtré.We know that the light radigtions of wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allow the browning of the human epidermis and that the rays of wavelengths between 280 nm and 320 nm, known under the name of UV -B, cause erythema and skin burns which can affect the development of natural tanning; this UV-B radiation must therefore be filtered.
On sait également que les rayons UV-A, de longueurs d'onde comprises entre 320 nm et 400 nm, qui provoquent le brunissement de la peau, sont susceptibles d'induire une altération de celle-ci, notamment dans le cas d'une peau sensible ou d'une peau continuellement exposée au rayonnement solaire. Les rayons UV-A provoquent en particulier une perte d'élasticité de la peau et l'apparition de rides conduisant à un vieillissement prématuré. Ils favorisent le déclenchement de la réaction érythémateuse ou amplifient cette réaction chez certains sujets et peuvent même être à l'origine de réactions phototoxiques ou photo-allergiques. Il est donc souhaitable de filtrer aussi le rayonnement UV-A.It is also known that UV-A rays, of wavelengths between 320 nm and 400 nm, which cause browning of the skin, are capable of inducing an alteration of the latter, in particular in the case of a sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity in the skin and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature aging. They promote the triggering of the erythematous reaction or amplify this reaction in certain subjects and can even be the cause of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.
Selon l'invention, on entend désigner de manière générale par système photoprotecteur capable de filtrer le rayonnement UV, tout composé ou toute association de composés qui, par des mécanismes connus en soi d'absorption et/ou de réflexion et/ou diffusion du rayonnement UV-A et/ou UV-B, permet d'empêcher, ou du moins limiter, la mise en contact dudit rayonnement avec une surface (peau, cheveux,) sur laquelle ce ou ces composés ont été appliqués. En d'autres termes, les composés visés par la présente invention sont à la fois les filtres organiques photoprotecteurs absorbeurs d'UV et lesAccording to the invention, the term “photoprotective system capable of filtering UV radiation” is generally intended to denote any compound or any combination of compounds which, by known mechanisms of absorption and / or reflection and / or diffusion of UV-A and / or UV-B radiation, makes it possible to prevent, or at least limit, the contacting of said radiation with a surface (skin, hair,) on which this or these compounds have been applied. In other words, the compounds targeted by the present invention are both organic UV-absorbing photoprotective filters and
(nano)pigments minéraux diffuseurs et/ou réflecteurs d'UV, ainsi que leurs mélanges.(nano) UV diffusing and / or reflecting mineral pigments, as well as their mixtures.
De nombreuses compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques destinées à la photoprotection (UV-A et/ou UV-B) de la peau ont été proposées à ce jour.Many cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions intended for the photoprotection (UV-A and / or UV-B) of the skin have been proposed to date.
Ces compositions antisolaires se présentent assez souvent sous la forme d'une emulsion, de type huile-dans-eau (c'est-à-dire un support cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable constitué d'une phase continue dispersante aqueuse et d'une phase discontinue dispersée grasse) ou eau- dans-huile (phase aqueuse dispersée dans une phase grasse continue), qui contient, à des concentrations diverses, un ou plusieurs filtres organiques classiques, lipophiles et/ou hydrophiles, capables d'absorber sélectivement les rayonnements UV nocifs, ces filtres (et leurs quantités) étant sélectionnés en fonction du facteur de protection solaire recherché (le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) s'exprimant mathématiquement par le rapport du temps d'irradiation nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène avec le filtre UV au temps nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène sans filtre UV). Dans de telles émulsions, les filtres hydrophiles sont présents dans la phase aqueuse et les filtres lipophiles sont présents dans la phase grasse.These sunscreen compositions are quite often in the form of an emulsion, of the oil-in-water type (that is to say a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable support consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed fatty phase) or water-in-oil (aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fatty phase), which contains, at various concentrations, one or more conventional organic filters, lipophilic and / or hydrophilic, capable of selectively absorbing radiation Harmful UV rays, these filters (and their quantities) being selected according to the sun protection factor sought (the sun protection factor (SPF) expressed mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the filter UV at the time necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without UV filter). In such emulsions, hydrophilic filters are present in the aqueous phase and lipophilic filters are present in the fatty phase.
Les compositions antisolaires sous la forme d'une emulsion de type huile-dans- eau ou eau-dans-huile peuvent contenir des pigments et/ou des nanopigments minéraux (c'est-à-dire de pigments dont la taille moyenne des particules primaires n'excède généralement pas 100 nm) à base d'oxydes métalliques, et en particulier d'oxyde de titane. Elles sont de plus en plus recherchées compte tenu du fait que ces dernières substances, lorsqu'elles sont associées avec des filtres UV classiques (principalement des composés organiques capables d'absorber les rayonnements nocifs) permettent d'obtenir des indices de protection très élevés. Ces nanopigments peuvent être présents tant dans la phase aqueuse de l'émulsion que dans sa phase grasse.The sunscreen compositions in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion may contain pigments and / or mineral nanopigments (that is to say pigments with an average size of the primary particles generally does not exceed 100 nm) based on metal oxides, and in particular titanium oxide. They are more and more sought after taking into account the fact that the latter substances, when they are associated with conventional UV filters (mainly organic compounds capable of absorbing harmful radiation) make it possible to obtain very high protection indices. These nanopigments can be present both in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and in its fatty phase.
Les émulsions huile-dans-eau sont, d'une manière générale, plus appréciées par le consommateur que les émulsions eau-dans-huile, en raison notamment de leur toucher agréable (voisin de l'eau) et de leur présentation sous forme de lait ou de crème non gras ; cependant, elles perdent également plus facilement leur efficacité en protection UV dès lors qu'elles viennent en contact avec l'eau ; en effet, les filtres hydrophiles, acides notamment, disparaissent à l'eau, par baignade en mer ou en piscine, sous la douche ou lors de la pratique de sports nautiques ; ainsi, les compositions solaires qui les contiennent, seuls ou associés aux filtres lipophiles, n'apportent plus la protection initiale recherchée dès lors que le substrat (peau ou cheveu) sur lequel elles ont été appliquées vient en contact avec l'eau, cette perte en indice de protection par élimination à l'eau du filtre hydrophile étant d'autant plus marquée que l'association filtrante lipophile-hydrophile, présente dans la composition, est synergique au niveau du facteur de protection solaire.Oil-in-water emulsions are, in general, more appreciated by the consumer than water-in-oil emulsions, in particular because of their pleasant feel (close to water) and their presentation in the form of non-fat milk or cream; however, they also more easily lose their effectiveness in UV protection when they come into contact with water; in fact, hydrophilic filters, particularly acid filters, disappear in water, by swimming in the sea or in a swimming pool, in the shower or during the practice of water sports; thus, the sun compositions which contain them, alone or combined with lipophilic filters, no longer provide the initial protection sought when the substrate (skin or hair) on which they have been applied comes into contact with water, this loss in protection index by elimination of the hydrophilic filter with water, being all the more marked when the lipophilic-hydrophilic filtering association, present in the composition, is synergistic at the level of the sun protection factor.
On peut disposer de compositions antisolaires présentant des SPF et une résistance à l'eau améliorés en mettant en oeuvre des émulsions eau-dans- huile. En effet, un filtre hydrophile est plus rémanent à l'eau au sein d'une emulsion eau-dans-huile qu'au sein d'une emulsion huile-dans-eau. Cependant, comme il a été indiqué plus haut, de telles compositions ne donnent pas encore entièrement satisfaction dans la mesure où elles laissent après application une impression de gras particulièrement désagréable pour l'utilisateur.Sunscreen compositions having improved SPF and water resistance can be available by using water-in-oil emulsions. Indeed, a hydrophilic filter is more persistent in water in a water-in-oil emulsion than in an oil-in-water emulsion. However, as indicated above, such compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory insofar as they leave after application an impression of fat which is particularly unpleasant for the user.
Ainsi, le besoin subsiste toujours quant à pouvoir disposer de compositions antisolaires pouvant contenir aussi bien des filtres hydrophiles, des filtres lipophiles, que des nanopigments dont le SPF serait élevé, stable dans le temps et résistant à l'eau, quels que soient les filtres hydrophιle(s) et/ou lιpophιle(s) et/ou les nanopigments utilisés et dont les performances cosmétiques seraient comparables à celles obtenues avec les émulsions huile/eau classiquesThus, the need still remains as to be able to have sunscreen compositions which can contain both hydrophilic filters, lipophilic filters, as well as nanopigments whose SPF would be high, stable in the time and water resistant, whatever the hydrophilic and / or epophilic filters and / or the nanopigments used and whose cosmetic performance would be comparable to that obtained with conventional oil / water emulsions
On connaît dans l'art antérieur d'autres types d'émulsions appelées multiples du type eau/huile/eau (E/H/E) ou huile/eau/huile (H/E/H) Parmi les émulsions multiples, on utilise de préférence les émulsions à phase aqueuse externe, à savoir les émulsions E/H/E, qui allient les avantages de la fraîcheur à l'application, apportée par l'eau présente dans la phase externe aqueuse, et du confort apporté par une quantité relativement importante d'huile En particulier, il a été proposé dans le document WO-A-94/224 4 un procédé de préparation d'émulsions multiples E/H/E consistant à préparer une emulsion E/H contenant comme emulsionnant E/H un ester d'acide gras et de glycéryle, et à disperser cette emulsion dans une phase aqueuse en présence d'un emulsionnant H/E choisi parmi les alcools gras oxyéthylénés et les stérols oxyéthylénésOther types of emulsions known as multiples of the water / oil / water (W / O / W) or oil / water / oil (O / W / O) type are known in the prior art. Among the multiple emulsions, preferably emulsions with an external aqueous phase, namely W / O / W emulsions, which combine the advantages of freshness with application, provided by the water present in the external aqueous phase, and the comfort provided by a quantity relatively large oil In particular, it was proposed in document WO-A-94/224 4 a process for preparing multiple W / O / W emulsions consisting in preparing a W / O emulsion containing as W / O emulsifier a fatty acid and glyceryl ester, and in dispersing this emulsion in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols and oxyethylenated sterols
Par emulsionnant E/H, on entend, au sens de la présente invention et dans le texte qui suit, tout compose ayant des propriétés émulsionnantes permettant de réaliser des émulsions eau-dans-huileBy W / O emulsifier is meant, within the meaning of the present invention and in the text which follows, any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce water-in-oil emulsions
Par emulsionnant H/E, on entend, au sens de la présente invention et dans le texte qui suit, tout composé ayant des propriétés émulsionnantes permettant de réaliser des émulsions huile-dans-eauBy O / W emulsifier is understood, within the meaning of the present invention and in the text which follows, any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce oil-in-water emulsions
Malheureusement, la stabilité des émulsions obtenues selon ce document n'est pas suffisante pour satisfaire aux exigences des produits commercialisés et notamment au stockage à des températures élevées, par exemple supérieures à 40°C Une telle instabilité peut conduire à une emulsion E/H, entraînant une perte des qualités de l'émulsion multiple, notamment sa qualité de fraîcheur à l'application puisque la phase externe n'est plus une phase aqueuse Cette emulsion multiple peut aussi se transformer en une emulsion H/E, souvent instable avec déphasage en huile et eau. De plus ces émulsions nécessitent un choix d'huiles particulières en quantités importantes qui sont peu émollientes et ne sont pas toujours bien tolérées par la peau et peuvent provoquer des irritations.Unfortunately, the stability of the emulsions obtained according to this document is not sufficient to meet the requirements of the products sold and in particular for storage at high temperatures, for example above 40 ° C. Such instability can lead to a W / O emulsion, leading to a loss of the qualities of the multiple emulsion, in particular its quality of freshness on application since the external phase is no longer an aqueous phase This multiple emulsion can also transform into an O / W emulsion, often unstable with oil and water phase shift. In addition, these emulsions require a choice of particular oils in large quantities which are not very emollient and are not always well tolerated by the skin and can cause irritation.
On connaît dans la demande EP-A-691839 également des émulsions triplesEP-A-691839 also discloses triple emulsions
E/H/E cosmétiques comprenant une emulsion primaire E/H contenant dans la phase grasse discontinue comme emulsionnant E/H un dérivé polyoxyéthylénéW / O / W cosmetics comprising a primary W / O emulsion containing in the discontinuous fatty phase as a W / O emulsifier a polyoxyethylenated derivative
(2,5 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène) et polyoxypropyléné (1 ,5 moles de d'oxyde de propylène) d'un mélange d'esters de glycerol et du sorbitol des acides hydroxystéarique et isostéarique vendu sous le nom commercial ARLACEL 780 par la Société ICI.(2.5 moles of ethylene oxide) and polyoxypropylene (1.5 moles of propylene oxide) of a mixture of glycerol esters and sorbitol of hydroxystearic and isostearic acids sold under the trade name ARLACEL 780 by the Company HERE.
La Demanderesse a constaté que ce type d'émulsions ne pouvaient pas être utilisées dans le domaine de la protection de la peau et des cheveux contre les rayonnements UV, en particulier contre le rayonnement solaire dans la mesure où elles étaient instables au stockage en présence de filtres hydrophiles et/ou de filtres lipophiles et/ou de nanopigments à base d'oxydes métalliques dans leur composition.The Applicant has found that this type of emulsion could not be used in the field of protecting the skin and the hair against UV radiation, in particular against solar radiation insofar as they were unstable on storage in the presence of hydrophilic filters and / or lipophilic filters and / or nanopigments based on metal oxides in their composition.
La Demanderesse a découvert d'une manière surprenante et inattendue que certaines émulsions multiples E/H/E comprenant dans la phase aqueuse externe une emulsion primaire E/H contenant dans la phase grasse discontinue comme emulsionnant E/H un copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxycarboxylique et d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol, pouvaient d'une part contenir aussi bien des filtres hydrophiles, des filtres lipophiles que des nanopigments sans présenter les problèmes de stabilité évoqués précédemment et d'autre part pouvaient conduire à des SPF élevés et stables dans le temps, quels que soient les filtres hydrophile(s) et/ou lipophile(s) et/ou les nanopigments utilisés. La Demanderesse a découvert également que ces mêmes émulsions multiples E/H/E particulières permettaient non seulement d'obtenir des compositions antisolaires dont les performances cosmétiques étaient comparables à celles obtenues généralement avec une composition antisolaire classique sous forme d'émulsion huile/eau mais aussi présentaient une rémanence à l'eau améliorée.The Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that certain multiple W / O / W emulsions comprising in the external aqueous phase a primary W / O emulsion containing in the discontinuous fatty phase as W / O emulsifier a block copolymer consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and a polymer sequence derived from an alkylglycol or a polyalkyleneglycol, on the one hand could contain hydrophilic filters, lipophilic filters as well as nanopigments without presenting the problems of stability mentioned above and on the other hand could lead to high and stable SPF over time, whatever the hydrophilic (s) and / or lipophilic (s) filters and / or the nanopigments used. The Applicant has also discovered that these same specific multiple W / O / W emulsions not only made it possible to obtain sunscreen compositions whose cosmetic performance was comparable to those generally obtained with a conventional sunscreen composition in the form of an oil / water emulsion but also exhibited improved water retention.
La Demanderesse a découvert également que ces mêmes émulsions multiples E/H/E pouvaient contenir une grande variété d'huiles constituant la phase grasse desdites émulsions, bien tolérées par la peau, ne provoquant pas d'irritation et apportant les avantages cosmétiques d'une emulsion à phase aqueuse externe.The Applicant has also discovered that these same multiple W / O / W emulsions could contain a wide variety of oils constituting the fatty phase of said emulsions, well tolerated by the skin, not causing irritation and providing the cosmetic advantages of emulsion with external aqueous phase.
Ces découvertes sont à l'origine de la présente invention.These discoveries are at the origin of the present invention.
La présente invention a pour objet une emulsion cosmétique ou dermatologique triple du type E/H/E, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comporte :The subject of the present invention is a triple cosmetic / dermatological emulsion of the W / O / W type, characterized in that it comprises:
(a) une phase externe aqueuse et(a) an aqueous external phase and
(b) une phase grasse discontinue constituant avec une phase aqueuse interne une emulsion primaire E/H, ladite phase grasse contenant comme emulsionnant E/H au moins un copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxycarboxylique et d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol ;(b) a discontinuous fatty phase constituting with an internal aqueous phase a W / O primary emulsion, said fatty phase containing as W / O emulsifier at least one block copolymer consisting of a polymer sequence derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and from a polymer sequence derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkylene glycol;
(c) au moins un système photoprotecteur capable de filtrer les rayons UV (UV- A et/ou UV-B).(c) at least one photoprotective system capable of filtering UV rays (UV-A and / or UV-B).
Par emulsion cosmétique ou dermatologique, au sens de la présente invention et dans le texte qui suit, on entend toute emulsion dont les phases aqueuses externe et interne et la phase grasse discontinue sont constitués de substances cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptables pour une application topique sur les matières kératiniques humaines incluant la peau, les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils, les lèvres, les ongles ou les muqueuses. La présente invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique pour la protection de la peau et/ou des cheveux contre le rayonnement ultraviolet, en particulier le rayonnement solaire, consistant à appliquer sur ces derniers une quantité efficace d'une composition telle que définie ci-dessus.By cosmetic or dermatological emulsion, within the meaning of the present invention and in the following text, is meant any emulsion in which the external and internal aqueous phases and the discontinuous fatty phase consist of cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable substances for topical application to materials human keratin including skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, lips, nails or mucous membranes. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for protecting the skin and / or hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation, consisting in applying to the latter an effective amount of a composition as defined above.
La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation de la composition telle que définie ci-dessus comme, ou pour la fabrication de compositions cosmétiques pour la protection de la peau et/ou des cheveux contre le rayonnement ultraviolet, en particulier le rayonnement solaire.The present invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above as, or for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions for the protection of the skin and / or the hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation.
D'autres caractéristiques, aspects et avantages de la présente invention apparaîtront à la lecture de la description détaillée qui va suivre.Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.
Selon la présente invention, les émulsionnants E/H du type copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxycarboxylique et d'une séquence polymère dérivée d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol répondent à la formule générale suivante : A-B-A (I)According to the present invention, the W / O emulsifiers of the block copolymer type consisting of a polymer block derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and a polymer block derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkyleneglycol correspond to the following general formula: ABA (I)
dans laquelle :in which :
A désigne un reste d'acide monohydroxycarboxylique oléolosoluble ayant un poids moléculaire d'au moins 500 de formule suivante :A denotes an oil-soluble monohydroxycarboxylic acid residue having a molecular weight of at least 500 of the following formula:
dans laquelle : in which :
R est un hydrogène ou un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent substitué ou nonR is hydrogen or a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group
R est un hydrogène ou un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent en C C24 ;R is hydrogen or a monovalent hydrocarbon group at CC 24 ;
R2 un groupe hydrocarboné divalent en CrC24 ; p est un nombre de 1 à 200 ; B désigne un reste divalent d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkylène glycol ayant un poids moléculaire d'au moins 500 et répondant à la formule suivante :R 2 a divalent C r C 24 hydrocarbon group; p is a number from 1 to 200; B denotes a divalent residue of an alkyl glycol or of a polyalkylene glycol having a molecular weight of at least 500 and corresponding to the following formula:
HO- -( (III)HO- - ((III)
dans laquelle : les radicaux R3, identiques ou différents, représentent hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C C4 ; q est un nombre de 1 à 100 ; s est un nombre de 1 à 17. in which: the radicals R 3 , identical or different, represent hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CC 4 ; q is a number from 1 to 100; s is a number from 1 to 17.
De façon préférentielle, R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié contenant jusqu'à 25 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement une chaîne linéaire une chaîne linéaire comportant de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 14 à 20 atomes de carbone, par exemple dérivée de l'acide oléique, palmitique ou stéarique.Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing up to 25 carbon atoms and more preferably a linear chain a linear chain comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, for example derived from oleic, palmitic or stearic acid.
Préférentiellement, les motifs contenant les radicaux R, et R2 constituent une chaîne linéaire comportant de 12 à 24 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 14 à 20 atomes de carbone et peuvent désigner un reste de l'acide hydroxy- oléique, hydroxy-palmitique ou de l'acide hydroxy-stéarique.Preferably, the units containing the radicals R 1 and R 2 constitute a linear chain comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 20 carbon atoms and can denote a residue of hydroxyoleic, hydroxy palmitic acid. or hydroxy stearic acid.
Les groupes alkylène glycol et/ou polyalkylène glycol peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi éthylène glycol, propylène glycol, d'autres alkylglycols en C4-C5. B désigne plus particulièrement un reste de polyéthylène glycol ou de 1 ,4- butanediol.The alkylene glycol and / or polyalkylene glycol groups can be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, other C 4 -C 5 alkyl glycols. B more particularly denotes a residue of polyethylene glycol or of 1,4-butanediol.
Les copolymères blocs de formule (I) sont connus en soi et sont décrits notamment dans les brevets GB1469591 , US4203877 et la demande de brevet WO96/07689. Ces mêmes documents décrivent leurs modes de préparation. Selon un mode particulièrement préféré de l'invention, on utilisera dans la phase grasse discontinue dans les émulsions multiples un copolymère bloc répondant à la formule (I) dans laquelle A désigne le reste d'une chaîne poly-The block copolymers of formula (I) are known per se and are described in particular in patents GB1469591, US4203877 and patent application WO96 / 07689. These same documents describe their preparation methods. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a block copolymer corresponding to formula (I) in which A denotes the remainder of a poly- chain will be used in the discontinuous fatty phase in multiple emulsions.
(acide 12-hydroxy-stéarique) se terminant par un groupe acide stéarique et B désigne un reste de polyéthylène glycol ; les séquences polyéthylène glycol dudit copolymère emulsionnant comportent de 4 à 50 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, et de préférence encore de 20 à 40 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène.(12-hydroxy-stearic acid) ending in a stearic acid group and B denotes a residue of polyethylene glycol; the polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying copolymer comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.
On utilisera plus particulièrement le copolymère bloc vendu sous la dénomination ARLACEL P135 par la société ICI dont la dénomination INCI est PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystéarate.The block copolymer sold under the name ARLACEL P135 by the company ICI, the name INCI of which is PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, will be used more particularly.
Selon l'invention, l'émulsionnant E/H copolymère bloc est de préférence présent en une quantité allant de 0,5 à 10 % en poids, de préférence de 2 à 5 % en poids.According to the invention, the W / O block copolymer emulsifier is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight.
La phase grasse discontinue des émulsions multiples selon l'invention est constituée des corps gras choisis parmi les huiles, les cires, les gommes ou les résines de silicone et leurs mélanges habituellement utilisés pour la préparation des émulsions mises en œuvre dans les compositions antisolaires.The discontinuous fatty phase of multiple emulsions according to the invention consists of fatty substances chosen from oils, waxes, gums or silicone resins and their mixtures usually used for the preparation of emulsions used in sunscreen compositions.
Par huile, on entend un composé liquide à température ambiante. Par cire, on entend un composé solide ou substantiellement solide à température ambiante, et dont le point de fusion est généralement supérieur à 35°C.By oil is meant a compound which is liquid at room temperature. The term “wax” is intended to mean a compound which is solid or substantially solid at room temperature, and the melting point of which is generally greater than 35 ° C.
Comme huiles, on peut citer par exemple les huiles minérales telles que les isoparaffines ; les huiles végétales (huile d'amande douce, de macadamia, de pépin de cassis, de jojoba) ; synthétiques comme le perhydrosqualène, les alcools, les acides ou les esters gras (paimitate d'octyle, lanolate d'isopropyle, les triglycérides dont ceux des acides caprique/caprylique), les esters et éthers gras oxyéthylénés ou oxypropylénés ; les huiles siiiconées (cyclométhicone, polydiméthysiloxanes ou PDMS) ou les huiles fluorées ; les poly-alpha-oléfines telles que les polydécènes hydrogénées ou non, les polyisobutylènes hydrogénés ou non.As oils, mention may, for example, be made of mineral oils such as isoparaffins; vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed, jojoba); synthetics such as perhydrosqualene, alcohols, fatty acids or esters (octyl paimitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids), fatty esters and ethers oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethysiloxanes or PDMS) or fluorinated oils; poly-alpha-olefins such as hydrogenated or not hydrogenated polydecenes, hydrogenated or not hydrogenated polyisobutylenes.
Comme composés cireux, on peut citer la paraffine, la cire de carnauba, la cire d'abeille, l'huile de ricin hydrogénée.As waxy compounds, there may be mentioned paraffin, carnauba wax, beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil.
De façon avantageuse, la phase grasse discontinue est présente dans une quantité allant de 5 à 40% en poids et plus préférentiellement de 10 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion triple.Advantageously, the discontinuous fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 40% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
L'émulsion primaire E/H selon l'invention de préférence est présente dans une quantité allant de 40 à 80% en poids et plus préférentiellement de 50 à 80% en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion triple.The primary W / O emulsion according to the invention is preferably present in an amount ranging from 40 to 80% by weight and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
Selon l'invention, la phase aqueuse externe contient de préférence un ou plusieurs émulsionnants H/E. On peut citer ceux comportant un groupement oxyéthyléné comme les alcools gras oxyéthylénés, les stérols oxyéthylénés et leurs mélanges. On pourrait utiliser d'autres types d'émulsionnants H/E et notamment ceux ayant un HLB (« Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance ») supérieur à 10 tels que les nonyphenols oxyéthylénés, les polymères blocs oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés comme les Poloxamers, les esters gras de sorbitan.According to the invention, the external aqueous phase preferably contains one or more O / W emulsifiers. Mention may be made of those comprising an oxyethylenated group such as oxyethylenated fatty alcohols, oxyethylenated sterols and their mixtures. Other types of O / W emulsifiers could be used and in particular those having an HLB (“Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance”) greater than 10 such as oxyethylenated nonyphenols, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated block polymers such as Poloxamers, fatty esters sorbitan.
Les alcools gras oxyéthylénés ont avantageusement une chaîne grasse comportant de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone et contiennent de préférence de 20 à 50, et mieux de 20 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène. Comme alcools gras oxyéthylénés utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer par exemple le mélange d'alcool cétylique/stéarylique, oxyéthyléné à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène (nom CTFA : Ceteareth-30).The oxyethylenated fatty alcohols advantageously have a fatty chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably contain from 20 to 50, and better still from 20 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide. As oxyethylenated fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned for example the mixture of cetyl / stearyl alcohol, oxyethylenated with 30 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Ceteareth-30).
Les stérols oxyéthylénés comportent de préférence de 10 à 40, et mieux de 25 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène. Comme stérols oxyéthylénés, on peut citer par exemple le stérol de soja oxyéthyléné à 25 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène (nomThe oxyethylenated sterols preferably contain from 10 to 40, and better still from 25 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide. As oxyethylenated sterols, mention may be made of: example soybean sterol oxyethylenated with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (name
CFTA : PEG-25 Soya sterol).CFTA: PEG-25 Soya sterol).
On utilisera plus particulièrement le copolymère bloc polyoxyéthylène/polyoxy- propylène connu sous le nom CTFA POLXAMER 407 et vendu sous le nom commercial SYNPERONIC PE/F127 par la Société ICI.The polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene block copolymer known under the name CTFA POLXAMER 407 and sold under the trade name SYNPERONIC PE / F127 by the company ICI will be used more particularly.
Les émulsionnants H/E sont présents de préférence en une quantité allant de 0,1 à 10 % en poids et de préférence de 0,5 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.The O / W emulsifiers are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
Le procédé utilisé pour préparer l'émulsion multiple selon l'invention est identique au procédé décrit dans le document WO-A-94/22414. Il consiste à mélanger la ou les huiles et l'émulsionnant E/H et à introduire dans le mélange la phase aqueuse interne sous forte agitation puis à introduire l'émulsion primaire obtenue sous agitation dans la phase aqueuse externe contenant de préférence au moins un emulsionnant H/E jusqu'à obtention de l'émulsion E/H/E.The process used to prepare the multiple emulsion according to the invention is identical to the process described in document WO-A-94/22414. It consists in mixing the oil or oils and the W / O emulsifier and in introducing into the mixture the internal aqueous phase with vigorous stirring then in introducing the primary emulsion obtained with stirring into the external aqueous phase preferably containing at least one emulsifier O / W until the W / O / W emulsion is obtained.
Selon l'invention, le système photo protecteur est constitué par un ou plusieurs filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles et/ou un ou plusieurs filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles et/ou un ou plusieurs (nano)pigments minéraux.According to the invention, the photo protective system consists of one or more organic hydrophilic UV absorbing filters and / or one or more organic lipophilic UV absorbing filters and / or one or more (nano) mineral pigments.
Selon l'invention, les filtres organiques hydrophiles peuvent être incorporés dans la phase aqueuse interne de l'émulsion E/H primaire et/ou dans la phase aqueuse externe de l'émulsion triple. Ils sont notamment choisis parmi les dérivés de la benzophénone, les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque, les dérivés du camphre ou encore parmi les dérivés de benzimidazole.According to the invention, the hydrophilic organic filters can be incorporated in the internal aqueous phase of the primary W / O emulsion and / or in the external aqueous phase of the triple emulsion. They are in particular chosen from benzophenone derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives or also from benzimidazole derivatives.
Comme filtres organiques hydrophiles particulièrement utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut citer l'acide benzène 1 ,4-di(3-méthylidène-10- campho-sulfonique) et l'acide 2-phénylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonique vendu sous la dénomination commerciale «Eusolex 232» par la société Merck.As hydrophilic organic filters particularly usable in the present invention, there may be mentioned benzene acid 1, 4-di (3-methylidene-10- camphorsulfonic acid) and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid sold under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by the company Merck.
Le ou les filtres organiques hydrophiles peuvent être présents dans la composition finale selon l'invention à une teneur pouvant varier de 0,1 à 20 %, de préférence de 0,2 à 10 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The hydrophilic organic filter or filters can be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can vary from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.2 to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon l'invention, les filtres organiques lipophiles peuvent être présents dans la phase grasse discontinue de l'émulsion triple. Ils peuvent être choisis parmi les dérivés du dibenzoylméthane, les dérivés de benzimidazole, les dérivés cinnamiques, les dérivés salicyliques, les dérivés du camphre, les dérivés de triazine, les dérivés de la benzophénone, les dérivés de β,β-diphénylacrylate, les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque, les polymères filtres et les silicones filtres décrits dans les demandes WO-93/04665 et WO-94/06404. D'autres exemples de filtres organiques sont donnés dans la demande de brevet EP-A-0487404.According to the invention, the lipophilic organic filters can be present in the discontinuous fatty phase of the triple emulsion. They can be chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, derivatives p-aminobenzoic acid, the screening polymers and the screening silicones described in applications WO-93/04665 and WO-94/06404. Other examples of organic filters are given in patent application EP-A-0487404.
Comme filtres organiques lipophiles particulièrement utilisables dans la présente invention, on peut citer le 4-tert-butyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale «PARSOL 1789» par la société GIVAUDAN, l'octylméthoxycinnamate vendu sous la dénomination commerciale «PARSOL MCX» par GIVAUDAN et l' -cyano-β, β-diphénylacrylate de 2-éthylhexyle vendu sous la dénomination commerciale «UVINUL N539» par la société BASF.As lipophilic organic filters which can be particularly used in the present invention, mention may be made of 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane sold under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the company GIVAUDAN, octylmethoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "PARSOL MCX By GIVAUDAN and 2-ethylhexyl -cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate sold under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by the company BASF.
Le ou les filtres organiques lipophiles peuvent être présents dans la composition finale selon l'invention à une teneur pouvant varier de 0,5 à 30 %, de préférence de 0,5 à 20 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Une deuxième catégorie d'agents photoprotecteurs convenant particulièrement bien aux émulsions multiples selon l'invention est celle des pigments. De préférence, on met en œuvre des nanopigments (taille moyenne des particules primaires : généralement entre 5 nm et 100 nm, de préférence entre 10 et 50 nm) minéraux d'oxydes métalliques enrobés ou non comme par exemple des nanopigments d'oxyde de titane (amorphe ou cristallisé sous forme rutile et ou anatase), de fer, de zinc, de zirconium ou de cérium qui sont tous des agents photoprotecteurs bien connus en soi agissant par blocage physiqueThe lipophilic organic filter or filters may be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can vary from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 0.5 to 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A second category of photoprotective agents which are particularly suitable for multiple emulsions according to the invention is that of pigments. Preferably, nanopigments are used (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 and 50 nm) metallic oxide minerals coated or not, such as for example titanium oxide nanopigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all well known photoprotective agents acting by physical blocking
(réflexion et ou diffusion) du rayonnement UV. Des agents d'enrobage classiques sont par ailleurs l'alumine et/ou le stéarate d'aluminium ou encore les silicones. De tels nanopigments d'oxydes métalliques, enrobés ou non enrobés, sont en particulier décrits dans les demandes de brevets(reflection and or diffusion) of UV radiation. Conventional coating agents are moreover alumina and / or aluminum stearate or else silicones. Such nanopigments of metallic oxides, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications
EP-A-0518772 et EP-A-0518773.EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.
Le ou les (nano)pigments minéraux peuvent être présents dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur comprise entre 0,1% et 30%, de préférence de 0,5% à 10%, en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The mineral (nano) pigment (s) may be present in the compositions according to the invention at a content of between 0.1% and 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également contenir des épaississants.The compositions according to the invention can also contain thickeners.
Les épaississants peuvent être choisis notamment parmi les acides poly- acryliques réticulés, les acides polyacryliques à chaîne grasse, les gommes de guar et celluloses modifiées ou non telles que la gomme de guar hydroxy- propylée, la méthylhydroxyéthylcellulose et l'hydroxypropylméthyl cellulose.The thickeners can be chosen in particular from crosslinked polyacrylic acids, fatty chain polyacrylic acids, guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropylated guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
Les ou les épaississants peuvent être présents dans la composition finale selon l'invention à une teneur pouvant aller de 0,1 à 10 %, de préférence de 0,1 à 5 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également contenir des agents de bronzage et/ou de brunissage artificiels de la peau (agents autobronzants), tels que par exemple de la dihydroxyacétone (DHA).The thickener (s) may be present in the final composition according to the invention at a content which can range from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may also contain artificial tanning and / or browning agents for the skin (self-tanning agents), such as for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
Les compositions conformes à la présente invention peuvent comprendre en outre des adjuvants cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques classiques notamment choisis parmi les solvants organiques, les adoucissants, les antioxydants, les agents anti radicaux libres, les opacifiants, les stabilisants, les émollients, les α-hydroxyacides, les agents anti-mousse, les agents hydratants, les vitamines, les parfums, les conservateurs, les tensioactifs, les charges, les séquestrants, les polymères, les propulseurs, les agents alcalinisants ou acidifiants, les colorants, ou tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique et/ou dermatologique, en particulier pour la fabrication de compositions antisolaires sous forme d'émulsions.The compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic and / or dermatological adjuvants in particular chosen from organic solvents, softeners, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, α- hydroxy acids, anti-foaming agents, hydrating agents, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, fillers, sequestrants, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents, dyes, or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field, in particular for the manufacture of sunscreen compositions in the form of emulsions.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels composés complémentaires cités ci-dessus et/ou leurs quantités de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement aux émulsions multiples conformes à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées.Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the multiple emulsions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the planned addition (s).
Des exemples concrets, mais nullement limitatifs, illustrant l'invention, vont maintenant être donnés.Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
EXEMPLE 1 : Composition antisolaire sous forme d'émulsion E/H/EEXAMPLE 1 Sunscreen composition in the form of a W / O / W emulsion
Phase grasse discontinue :Discontinuous fatty phase:
- Copolymère bloc de formule (I) vendu sous le nom ARLACEL P135 par ICI 2,4 % en poids- Block copolymer of formula (I) sold under the name ARLACEL P135 by HERE 2.4% by weight
- Isohexadécane 6,6 % - Alcool stéarylique oxypropyléné à 15 moles d'oxyde de propylène 3,3 %- Isohexadecane 6.6% - Stearyl alcohol oxypropylenated with 15 moles of propylene oxide 3.3%
- Mélange de triglycérides d'acide caprique et d'acide caprylique 3,3 % - Octyl méthoxycinnamate vendu sous nom « Parsoi MCX » par GIVAUDAN 5,0 %- Mixture of triglycerides of capric acid and caprylic acid 3.3% - Octyl methoxycinnamate sold under the name "Parsoi MCX" by GIVAUDAN 5.0%
Phase aqueuse interne :Internal aqueous phase:
- Acide benzène 1 ,4-di(3-méthylidène-10-camphosulfonique) 1 % - Triéthanolamine 0,56 %- Benzene acid 1, 4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) 1% - Triethanolamine 0.56%
- Conservateurs 0,72 %- Preservatives 0.72%
- Eau 37,12 %- Water 37.12%
Phase aqueuse externe : - Acide benzène 1 ,4-di(3-méthylidène-10-camphosulfonique) 1 %External aqueous phase: - Benzene acid 1, 4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) 1%
- Copolymère bloc POE/POP ( Nom CTFA : Poloxamer 407) vendu sous le nom SYMPERONIC PE/F 127 par ICI 2,0 %- POE / POP block copolymer (CTFA name: Poloxamer 407) sold under the name SYMPERONIC PE / F 127 by HERE 2.0%
- Triéthanolamine 0,56 %- Triethanolamine 0.56%
- Epaississant 0,7 % - Conservateurs 1 ,2 %- Thickener 0.7% - Preservatives 1, 2%
- Eau qsp 100%- Water qs 100%
La composition obtenue reste stable au stockage après 2 mois à température ambiante et à des températures supérieures à 40°C.The composition obtained remains stable on storage after 2 months at room temperature and at temperatures above 40 ° C.
EXEMPLE 2 (COMPARATIF : Hors invention)EXAMPLE 2 (COMPARATIVE: Excluding invention)
On prépare une emulsion antisolaire du type E/H/E identique à celle de l'exemplel mais dans laquelle on a remplacé le produit ARLACEL P135 par un dérivé polyoxyéthyléné (2,5 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène) et polyoxypropyléné (1 ,5 moles de d'oxyde de propylène) d'un mélange d'esters de glycerol et du sorbitol des acides hydroxystéarique et isosteahque vendu sous le nom commercial ARLACEL 780 par la Société ICI. La concentration de l'émulsionnant E/H est identique à celle utilisée dans l'exemple 1.A sunscreen emulsion of the W / O / W type identical to that of the example is prepared but in which the product ARLACEL P135 has been replaced by a polyoxyethylenated derivative (2.5 moles of ethylene oxide) and polyoxypropylenated (1, 5 moles of propylene oxide) of a mixture of glycerol esters and sorbitol of hydroxystearic and isosteahic acids sold under the name ARLACEL 780 by ICI. The concentration of the W / O emulsifier is identical to that used in Example 1.
On observe que l'émulsion est instable.It is observed that the emulsion is unstable.
EXEMPLE 3 (COMPARATIF : Hors invention) :EXAMPLE 3 (COMPARATIVE: Excluding invention):
On prépare une emulsion H/E antisolaire classique présentant la composition suivante :A conventional sunscreen O / W emulsion is prepared having the following composition:
- ARLACEL 165 (emulsionnant) 2% - Co-émulsionnants classiques 3,75%- ARLACEL 165 (emulsifier) 2% - Classic co-emulsifiers 3.75%
- Silicone 10,5%- Silicone 10.5%
- Corps gras classiques 10,5%- Classic fatty substances 10.5%
- Hydratant 8%- Moisturizing 8%
- Epaississant/gélifiant 0,4% - PARSOL MCX 5%- Thickener / gelling agent 0.4% - PARSOL MCX 5%
- Acide benzène 1 ,4-di-3-méthylidène-10-camphosulfonique) 2%- Benzene acid 1, 4-di-3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) 2%
- Triéthanolamine 1 ,82%- Triethanolamine 1, 82%
- Conservateur, eau qsp 100%- Preservative, water qs 100%
1/ Evaluation de la rémanence à l'eau des compositions des exemples 1 et 3 :1 / Evaluation of the water persistence of the compositions of Examples 1 and 3:
Pour chacune des formulations des exemples 1 et 3 ainsi préparées, on a ensuite déterminé la résistance à l'eau du facteur de protection solaire (SPF) qui lui est attaché.For each of the formulations of Examples 1 and 3 thus prepared, the resistance to water of the sun protection factor (SPF) which is attached to it was then determined.
La mesure du facteur de protection solaire a été effectuée selon la méthode suivante (in vivo): on a appliqué ces formulations, à raison de 2 mg de produit/cm2 de peau, sur le dos de 5 modèles humains, puis on a soumis simultanément les zones protégées et les zones non protégées de peau à l'action d'un simulateur solaire commercialisé sous le nom de "Xénon Multiport WG 320-UG 1 1 " ; le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) a été alors calculé mathématiquement par le rapport du temps d'irradiation qui a été nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène avec le filtre UV (zone protégée) au temps qui a été nécessaire pour atteindre le seuil érythématogène sans filtreThe measurement of the sun protection factor was carried out according to the following method (in vivo): these formulations were applied, at a rate of 2 mg of product / cm 2 of skin, on the back of 5 human models, then we subjected simultaneously the protected areas and the unprotected areas of skin with the action of a solar simulator marketed under the name of "Xenon Multiport WG 320-UG 1 1"; the sun protection factor (SPF) was then calculated mathematically by the ratio of the irradiation time that was necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold with the UV filter (protected area) at the time that was necessary to reach the erythematogenic threshold without filter
UV (zone non protégée).UV (unprotected area).
Selon cette méthode, on détermine le SPF de chaque formulation sur des zones de peau traitées par chacune d'elle et n'ayant pas subi de bain.According to this method, the SPF of each formulation is determined on areas of skin treated with each of them and which have not undergone a bath.
Parallèlement, on détermine aussi le SPF de chaque formulation sur des zones de peau traitées par chacune d'elle et ayant subi deux bains ; chaque bain durant 20 minutes et les deux bains étant espacés d'une durée de 20 minutes.At the same time, the SPF of each formulation is also determined on areas of skin treated with each of them and having undergone two baths; each bath for 20 minutes and the two baths being spaced 20 minutes apart.
On calcule ensuite la variation du SPF de chaque formulation (exprimée en pourcentage) avec bain et sans bain qui correspond au pourcentage de rémanence à l'eau.The variation of the SPF of each formulation (expressed as a percentage) with bath and without bath is then calculated, which corresponds to the percentage of water persistence.
Les résultats sont donnés avec un intervalle de confiance de 95% dans le tableau ci-dessous :The results are given with a 95% confidence interval in the table below:
Ces résultats % rémanence montrent Exemple (invention) 76,8 ± 15,8 clairement Exemple 3 (comparatif) 46,9 ± 14,2 que, à système filtrant identique, l'émulsion triple E/H/E de l'exemple 1 conforme à la présente invention, présente une meilleure rémanence à l'eau que l'émulsion H/E classique de l'exemple 3.These% remanence results show Example (invention) 76.8 ± 15.8 clearly Example 3 (comparative) 46.9 ± 14.2 that, with identical filtering system, the triple W / O / W emulsion of Example 1 in accordance with the present invention, exhibits better water persistence than the conventional O / W emulsion of Example 3.
2/ Evaluation des propriétés cosmétiques des compositions des exemples 1 et 3 :2 / Evaluation of the cosmetic properties of the compositions of Examples 1 and 3:
On effectue un test sensoriel sur un panel de 10 personnes en appliquant chacune des émulsions des exemples 1 et 3 à raison de 0,2g sur la peau de chaque avant-bras. Les critères suivants ont été étudiés : - Facilité d'applicationA sensory test is carried out on a panel of 10 people by applying each of the emulsions of Examples 1 and 3 at a rate of 0.2 g to the skin of each forearm. The following criteria were studied: - Ease of application
- Gras- Bold
- Collant- Tights
- Rapidité de séchage - Douceur- Quick drying - Softness
Les 10 personnes ont jugé que l'émulsion triple E/H/E de l'exemple 1 conforme à l'invention apportaient des propriétés cosmétiques analogues à celle de l'émulsion E/H classique de l'exemple 3. The 10 people judged that the triple W / O / W emulsion of Example 1 in accordance with the invention provided cosmetic properties similar to that of the conventional W / O emulsion of Example 3.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Emulsion triple du type eau/huile/eau (E/H/E), cosmétique ou dermatologique, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comporte :1. Triple emulsion of the water / oil / water (W / O / W) type, cosmetic or dermatological, characterized in that it comprises:
(a) une phase externe aqueuse et(a) an aqueous external phase and
(b) une phase grasse discontinue constituant avec une phase aqueuse interne une emulsion primaire eau/huile (E/H), ladite phase grasse contenant comme emulsionnant E/H au moins un copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxycarboxylique et d'une séquence de polymère dérivé d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol ;(b) a discontinuous fatty phase constituting with an internal aqueous phase a primary water / oil (W / O) emulsion, said fatty phase containing as W / O emulsifier at least one block copolymer consisting of a polymer block derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and a polymer sequence derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkylene glycol;
(c) au moins un système photoprotecteur capable de filtrer les rayons UV (UV- A et/ou UV-B).(c) at least one photoprotective system capable of filtering UV rays (UV-A and / or UV-B).
2. Emulsion selon la revendication 1 , selon laquelle l'émulsionnant E/H du type copolymère bloc constitué d'une séquence polymère dérivé d'un acide monohydroxycarboxylique et d'une séquence polymère dérivée d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkyleneglycol répond à la formule générale suivante : A-B-A (I) dans laquelle :2. Emulsion according to claim 1, according to which the W / O emulsifier of the block copolymer type consisting of a polymer block derived from a monohydroxycarboxylic acid and a polymer block derived from an alkyl glycol or a polyalkyleneglycol corresponds to the following general formula: ABA (I) in which:
A désigne un reste d'acide monohydroxycarboxylique oleolosoluble ayant un poids moléculaire d'au moins 500 de formule suivante :A denotes an oleoluble monohydroxycarboxylic acid residue having a molecular weight of at least 500 of the following formula:
dans laquelle : in which :
R est un hydrogène ou un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent substitué ou non ;R is hydrogen or a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group;
R1 est un hydrogène ou un groupe hydrocarboné monovalent en C C24 ;R 1 is hydrogen or a monovalent hydrocarbon group at CC 24 ;
R2 un groupe hydrocarboné divalent en C C24 ; p est un nombre de 1 à 200 ; B désigne un reste divalent d'un alkylglycol ou d'un polyalkylène glycol ayant un poids moléculaire d'au moins 500 et répondant à la formule suivante :R 2 a divalent hydrocarbon group at CC 24 ; p is a number from 1 to 200; B denotes a divalent residue of an alkyl glycol or of a polyalkylene glycol having a molecular weight of at least 500 and corresponding to the following formula:
dans laquelle : les radicaux R3, identiques ou différents, représentent hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C C4 ; q est un nombre de 1 à 100 ; s est un nombre de 1 à 17. in which: the radicals R 3 , identical or different, represent hydrogen, an alkyl radical in CC 4 ; q is a number from 1 to 100; s is a number from 1 to 17.
3. Emulsion selon la revendication 2, selon laquelle dans la formule (I), A désigne le reste d'une chaîne poly(acide 12-hydroxy-stéarique) se terminant par un groupe acide stéarique et B désigne un reste de polyéthylène glycol.3. Emulsion according to claim 2, according to which in formula (I), A denotes the remainder of a poly (12-hydroxy-stearic acid) chain ending in a stearic acid group and B denotes a residue of polyethylene glycol.
4. Emulsion selon la revendication 3, où les séquences polyéthylène glycol dudit copolymère emulsionnant comportent de 4 à 50 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, et de préférence encore de 20 à 40 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène.4. An emulsion according to claim 3, wherein the polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying copolymer comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.
5. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, selon laquelle l'émulsionnant E/H est présent en une quantité allant de 0,5 à 10 % en poids, de préférence de 2 à 5 % en poids.5. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, according to which the W / O emulsifier is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight.
6. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, selon laquelle la phase grasse discontinue est présente dans une quantité allant de 5 à 40% en poids et plus préférentiellement de 10 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.6. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, according to which the discontinuous fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 5 to 40% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of l 'emulsion.
7. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, selon laquelle l'émulsion primaire E/H est présente dans une quantité allant de 40 à 80% en poids et plus préférentiellement de 50 à 80% en poids par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.7. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 6, according to which the primary W / O emulsion is present in an amount ranging from 40 to 80% by weight and more preferably from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
8. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, selon laquelle la phase aqueuse externe contient au moins un emulsionnant H/E.8. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 7, according to which the external aqueous phase contains at least one O / W emulsifier.
9. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, selon laquelle ledit système photo protecteur est constitué par un ou plusieurs filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles et/ou un ou plusieurs filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles et ou un ou plusieurs (nano)pigments minéraux.9. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 8, according to which said photo-protective system consists of one or more organic filters absorbing UV hydrophilic and / or one or more organic filters absorbing UV lipophilic and or one or several (nano) mineral pigments.
10. Emulsion selon la revendication 9, selon laquelle les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés de la benzophénone, les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque, les dérivés du camphre ou encore parmi les dérivés de benzimidazole.10. Emulsion according to claim 9, according to which the organic hydrophilic UV absorbers filters are chosen from benzophenone derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives or also from benzimidazole derivatives.
1 1 . Emulsion selon la revendication 10, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés du camphre.1 1. Emulsion according to Claim 10, characterized in that the organic hydrophilic UV absorbing filters are chosen from camphor derivatives.
12. Emulsion selon la revendication 1 1 , caractérisée par le fait que le filtre absorbeur d'UV hydrophile est l'acide benzène 1 ,4-di(3-méthylidène-10- camphosulfonique).12. Emulsion according to claim 1 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic UV absorber filter is benzene acid 1, 4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic).
13. Emulsion selon la revendication 9, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés de benzimidazole.13. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the organic hydrophilic UV absorbing filters are chosen from benzimidazole derivatives.
14. Emulsion selon la revendication 13, caractérisée par le fait que le filtre absorbeur d'UV hydrophile est l'acide 2-phénylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonique. 14. Emulsion according to claim 13, characterized in that the hydrophilic UV absorber filter is 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid.
15. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 9 à 13, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV hydrophiles sont présents dans la composition à une teneur pouvant aller de 0,1 à 20 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.15. Emulsion according to any one of claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the organic hydrophilic UV absorbers filters are present in the composition at a content which can range from 0.1 to 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
16. Emulsion selon la revendication 9, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés du dibenzoyméthane, les dérivés de benzimidazole, les dérivés cinnamiques, les dérivés salicyliques, les dérivés du camphre, les dérivés de triazine, les dérivés de la benzophénone, les dérivés de β,β-diphényiacrylate, les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque, les polymères filtres et silicones filtres.16. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV absorbers filters are chosen from dibenzoymethane derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, derivatives of triazine, benzophenone derivatives, β, β-diphenyiacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, filter polymers and filter silicones.
17. Emulsion selon la revendication 16, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés du dibenzoylméthane.17. Emulsion according to Claim 16, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV absorbing filters are chosen from dibenzoylmethane derivatives.
18. Emulsion selon la revendication 17, caractérisée par le fait que le filtre organique absorbeur d'UV lipophile est le 4-tert-butyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoyl- méthane.18. Emulsion according to Claim 17, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV-absorbing filter is 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane.
19. Emulsion selon la revendication 16, caractérisée par le fait que le filtre organique absorbeur d'UV lipophile est l'octylméthoxycinnamate19. Emulsion according to Claim 16, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV-absorbing filter is octylmethoxycinnamate
20. Emulsion selon la revendication 16, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles sont choisis parmi les dérivés de β,β- diphénylacrylate.20. Emulsion according to claim 16, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV-absorbing filters are chosen from β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives.
21. Emulsion selon la revendication 16, caractérisée par le fait que le filtre organique absorbeur d'UV lipophile filtre lipophile est l'α-cyano-β, β-diphénylacrylate de 2-éthylhexyle. 21. An emulsion according to claim 16, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV absorber filter lipophilic filter is 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate.
22. Emulsion selon l'une quelconque des revendications 9 à 16, caractérisée par le fait que les filtres organiques absorbeurs d'UV lipophiles sont présents dans la composition à une teneur pouvant aller de 0,5 à 30 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.22. Emulsion according to any one of Claims 9 to 16, characterized in that the organic lipophilic UV-absorbing filters are present in the composition at a content which can range from 0.5 to 30%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
23. Emulsion selon la revendication 9, caractérisée par le fait que les (nano)pigments minéraux sont des nanopigments d'oxydes métalliques enrobés ou non.23. Emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the (nano) mineral pigments are nanopigments of metallic oxides coated or not.
24. Emulsion selon la revendication 23, caractérisée par le fait que les nanopigments minéraux d'oxydes métalliques sont choisis parmi ceux d'oxyde de titane, de fer, de zinc, de zirconium ou de cérium enrobés ou non.24. Emulsion according to claim 23, characterized in that the mineral nanopigments of metal oxides are chosen from those of titanium oxide, iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium coated or not.
25. Emulsion selon la revendication 16, 23 ou 24, caractérisée par le fait que les (nano)pigments minéraux sont présents à une teneur comprise entre 0,1 % et 30 %, de préférence de 0,5 % à 10 %, en poids, par rapport au poids total de l'émulsion.25. An emulsion according to claim 16, 23 or 24, characterized in that the (nano) mineral pigments are present at a content of between 0.1% and 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, in weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
26. Procédé de traitement cosmétique pour la protection de la peau et/ou des cheveux contre le rayonnement ultraviolet, en particulier le rayonnement solaire, caractérisé par le fait qu'il consiste à appliquer sur ces derniers une quantité efficace d'une emulsion triple E/H/E telle que définie à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 25.26. Cosmetic treatment method for protecting the skin and / or hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation, characterized in that it consists in applying to the latter an effective amount of a triple E emulsion / O / W as defined in any one of claims 1 to 25.
27. Utilisation de l'émulsion triple E/H/E définie à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 25 comme, ou pour la fabrication de, compositions cosmétiques pour la protection de la peau et/ou des cheveux contre le rayonnement ultraviolet, en particulier le rayonnement solaire. 27. Use of the triple W / O / W emulsion defined in any one of claims 1 to 25 as, or for the manufacture of, cosmetic compositions for the protection of the skin and / or the hair against ultraviolet radiation, especially solar radiation.
EP98942807A 1997-09-16 1998-09-01 Triple emulsion containing a solar protecting system Withdrawn EP0966259A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9711494A FR2768337B1 (en) 1997-09-16 1997-09-16 W / O / W-TYPE THREE EMULSIONS CONTAINING A PHOTOPROTECTIVE SYSTEM CAPABLE OF FILTERING UV RAYS; THEIR USES IN COSMETICS
FR9711494 1997-09-16
PCT/FR1998/001876 WO1999013853A1 (en) 1997-09-16 1998-09-01 Triple emulsion containing a solar protecting system

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AU9080298A (en) 1999-04-05
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FR2768337B1 (en) 1999-10-15
WO1999013853A1 (en) 1999-03-25

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