EP0954279A2

EP0954279A2 - Pharmaceutical, cosmetic composition with base of microbial culture mixed with an essential oil and an acid

Info

Publication number: EP0954279A2
Application number: EP97947137A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Alexandra Fregonese
Original assignee: 1 Fois 1 Jour Concept SARL Unipersonnelle
Current assignee: 1 Fois 1 Jour Concept SARL Unipersonnelle
Priority date: 1996-11-26
Filing date: 1997-11-26
Publication date: 1999-11-10
Also published as: FR2756181A1; AU5229598A; JP2001504510A; WO1998023243A3; CA2273512A1; WO1998023243A2; FR2756181B1; US6270811B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition. This composition is characterised in that it contains a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or in pharmacy or in therapy, in particular a culture of micro-organisms selected among the acetic or lactic bacteria, freeze-dried yeast, suspensions of micro-organisms, fermented organic substances, for example fermented pollen, or an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifidobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus mixed with an essential oil and an acid preferably an organic acid, such as citric acid. This composition has an activity for regenerating the skin, in particular antiwrinkle properties, for erasing old scars, for repairing burnt tissues, for promoting skin healing, for eliminating pigmentary spots and also for promoting growth or fresh growth of superficial body growth including nails, hair or hairs.

Description

Cosmetic, pharmaceutical composition based on microbial cultures mixed with an essential oil and an acid.

Document EP-0 043 128 B1 discloses a cosmetic composition based on a "complex" of active substances promoting the process of repairing the DNA of skin cells based on an inactivated culture of bacteria of the bifldobacterium genus or bacteria related to this genus (see claim 1 and description).

This document describes a DNA repair effect demonstrated by comparative tests where the DNA of tissues is damaged in vitro or in vivo by a UV lamp and where it is demonstrated that the complex of active substances formed by inactivated cultures of bifldobacterium produces a significant restorative effect.

This document also contains various exemplary embodiments in which this complex is used in combination with various mixtures of high molecular weight esters, some of which may be alcoholic esters of citric acid.

In the context of the present invention, tests have been carried out on wrinkles as well as old scars of several years which may go up to about twenty years with a composition in accordance with the examples of this document and it has not been noted no significant anti-wrinkle effect or apparent effects on the appearance of such old scars.

During new tests, the present inventor has mixed an inactivated culture of bifldobacterium or bacteria related to this genus with an essential oil as well as an acid, preferably organic, in particular a fatty acid, such as citric acid, and demonstrated the unexpected obtaining of a significant anti-wrinkle effect as well as a significant effect of exfoliation of old scars. These significant effects are quantifiable from the first application. A significant effect could also be observed concerning a repair of the scars left by burns, the promotion of skin scarring, the elimination of pigmentary spots and also the promotion of the growth or regrowth of the integuments, that is to say say nails, hair or body hair.

In yet other tests, the present inventor unexpectedly discovered that the use of flower pollen, which contains a large number of fermentation microorganisms or ferments, or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, collected by bees or not, unfermented or fermented, constitutes an active ingredient of a composition cosmetic or pharmaceutical, in particular having an anti-wrinkle effect, smoothing, improving the skin texture, lightening, reducing scars, superficial hydrating of the skin, softening for the skin, perfuming, regenerating of the skin. It was also unexpectedly observed that this activity was radically enhanced if the pollen was combined with an essential oil of plant, in particular with an essential oil of mint, preferably peppery, rosemary, lemon and again if this combination was also carried out with an acid, preferably organic, in particular a fatty acid. Advantageously, the aforementioned acid is chosen from citric acid used as such or in the form of a derivative such as a salt or ester and in particular an alcoholic ester, or a citrus juice such as lemon juice, orange, lime juice, grapefruit juice, clementine juice, tangerine juice, or an essential oil of lemon or orange or other extracts rich in citric acid or tartaric acid, or ascorbic acid or lactic acid. More generally, the present inventor has discovered that a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or in pharmacy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials, by example of preferably fermented pollen, or an inactivated culture of bacteria of the bifldobacterium genus or related bacteria of this genus, constitutes an active principle of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, having the above-mentioned activities which are particularly potent when mixed with an oil essential and an acid.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or in pharmacy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic matter, for example preferably fermented pollen, or an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus mixed with an essential oil and an acid, preferably organic acid, in particular a fatty acid, as a cosmetic agent or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, in particular with skin regeneration activity, in particular anti-wrinkle, for exfoliation of old scars, for repairing scars left by burns, for promoting skin scarring, for eliminating of spots pigments and also for promoting the growth or regrowth of the integuments, including the nails and the hair.

It should be noted that these effects are obtained without significant side effect and in particular without comedogenic effect and without allergenic effect and without hyperemia. It should be noted that to guarantee an absence of hyperemia, it is generally necessary to use a dosage of acid, preferably organic, in particular of a fatty acid, such as citric acid, less than or equal to about 30%. .

According to a second aspect, the present invention also covers a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it comprises a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or in pharmacy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic acid bacteria, lyophilized yeasts , suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials, for example preferably fermented pollen, or an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus, mixed with an essential oil and an acid, preferably organic , especially a fatty acid.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention in the context of any of its aspects, the aforementioned microbial culture is used at a concentration of microorganisms of at least 1 million, better still at least 10 million per gram of culture of microorganisms. By "culture" is meant the raw culture media or those resulting from a physical separation such as filtration, centrifugation, which are well known to those skilled in the art and which are also described below in relation to pollen. .

This microbial culture can consist of approximately 1 to approximately 90% by weight of the final composition but generally may vary in preferred concentrations as indicated according to the variants below.

According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to incorporate from approximately 1 to approximately 90% by weight and better still from approximately 50 to approximately 60% by weight of an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genre.

According to another alternative embodiment of the invention, when it is fermented organic matter, for example unfermented or fermented pollen, it is currently preferred to incorporate from approximately 1 to approximately 90% by weight, better still from approximately 1 to about 30%, more preferably about 1 to about 10% and more preferably between about 1 and about 5% of such fermented organic materials, preferably consisting of fermented pollen. As far as the acid is concerned, this will generally be added in a proportion of approximately 1 to approximately 50% by weight and better still from approximately 5 to approximately 40% by weight and even better still between approximately 5 and approximately 30% by weight. weight.

In one or other of the aspects of the present invention, it is currently preferred to use as citric acid as such or in the form of a derivative such as a salt or ester and in particular an alcoholic ester, or a citrus juice, such as lemon juice, orange juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, clementine juice, tangerine juice, or an essential oil of lemon or orange or other extracts rich in citric acid or tartaric acid, or ascorbic acid or lactic acid. The acid can also be a fatty acid compatible in cosmetics or in pharmacy, well known to those skilled in the art. It appeared that the presence of this acid improves the effect in a synergistic way, within the framework of all the activities observed.

Likewise, it is currently preferred to apply from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight of essential oil and even better still from about 1 to about 7% by weight. This essential oil is at least one plant essential oil chosen from the group consisting of a mint essential oil, a rosemary essential oil, a thyme essential oil and a cerpolet essential oil, or any of their mixture. Preferably, this essential oil is an essential oil of mint.

It also appeared advantageous to also incorporate another essential oil and in particular an essential oil of rosemary.

When applying mixtures of essential oils, it is currently also preferred to apply the same total concentration of essential oils. However, the total essential oil content will preferably vary between about 0.5 and about 10% by weight and more preferably between about 1 and about 7% by weight.

Naturally, other products usually present in cosmetic or pharmaceutical products can be added without harming the effect of such combinations or better to improve the contrary the effect of such a combination. In this context, it is also possible to add proteins, in particular structural proteins such as collagen or elastin, in particular their soluble forms and also the hydrolysates of such proteins. The addition of these proteins increases the resistance of the skin to the treatment. One can also provide the excipients usually used in cosmetics or pharmacy and in particular for a topical application or a subcutaneous application.

On the other hand, in the context of general public use, it is highly preferred to incorporate the aforementioned mixture according to the invention of microbial culture with an essential oil as well as an acid, alone, or in mixture with d '' other complementary ingredients previously stated, in a total proportion not higher than approximately 30% by weight, the balance, that is to say approximately 70%, being constituted by other texturing agents which can be simply constituted by cosmetic products available on the market to which the mixture or mixtures according to the invention are added in this maximum proportion of approximately 30%. These other cosmetic products can be cosmetic exfoliation products, creams, masks, serums, whether they are used for the skin or the hair, which makes it possible to reduce or even prevent any phenomenon of irritation which does not occur. is not acceptable for a consumer product.

According to a third aspect, the present invention also covers a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the administration to a mammal, in particular a human being or an animal, of an effective amount of a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or pharmacy or therapy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic acid bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic matter, for example preferably fermented pollen, or alternatively a inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus in admixture with an essential oil, and of an acid, preferably organic, in particular of a fatty acid. Advantageous characteristics of this process also emerge clearly from the advantageous characteristics previously described, in particular with respect to the use as acid of citric acid, with the possible incorporation of another essential oil in particular of an essential oil of rosemary, with the proportions indicated.

According to a preferred embodiment of the treatment process, before applying the above-mentioned mixture or a composition containing it, as defined above, a moisturizing agent is applied, for example serum. One can use as hydrating agent a concentrated complex of active agents bringing to the epidermis all the essential biological elements. It can be a composition containing, for example, an extract algae, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid, thymus extract, hydroforte, taken alone or as a mixture.

According to a fourth aspect, the present invention also covers the use of flower pollen, or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, as a cosmetic agent or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, in particular having a regeneration activity. the skin, in particular anti-wrinkle, from exfoliation of old scars, repair of scars left by burns, promotion of cutaneous scarring, elimination of pigment spots, allowing a lightening of the skin, superficial hydration of the skin, skin softening, perfume.

Naturally, the pollen from flowers of the aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, can be used according to the present invention also for the implementation of any of the other aspects of the aforementioned invention. The use of flower pollen or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, constitutes an invention which is independently patentable from the other aspects of the invention.

For any aspect of the invention, it is possible to use pollen from flowers, or from its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, in the state harvested by the bees, or harvested independently, also in the state unfermented or naturally fermented or enriched with lactic ferments, for example bacteria and / or yeasts, in particular yeasts which can be isolated from pollen or from the bee.

The flower pollen of the invention may itself be used in lyophilized form or else it may have been concentrated by a physical method such as, for example, centrifugation or filtration.

In the context of the invention, the organic extract is advantageously an alcoholic or hydroalcoholic extract with a lower Cι-C ₆ alcohol, in particular with ethanol, in the case of a water / alcohol mixture, the concentration of alcohol is generally 40 to 60% by weight.

On the other hand, according to an advantageous characteristic of the invention, it is preferred to carry out a fermentation of the pollen of flowers or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, by adding more than 5% of water, and preferably between 20 and 40% by weight of water, or of a nutritive broth containing proteins, enriched or not with microbial ferment with fresh or frozen pollen which can then be incubated for half a day to several days at an appropriate temperature, generally between 10 ° C and 50 ° C approximately.

According to an advantageous characteristic of the invention, this fermentation of the pollen can be followed by maceration with at least one essential oil and / or in the presence of an acid, preferably organic, in particular a fatty acid, preferably of a few hours and advantageously between approximately 1 hour and approximately 6 hours, at a non-critical temperature which can be ambient temperature generally between approximately 0 ° C. and 50 ° C. It should be noted that this maceration stops the previous fermentation process. As essential oils, any essential oil of plants can be used and an essential oil of mint, in particular peppermint, rosemary, lemon, and mixtures thereof is currently preferred.

One can also mix with the pollen a vegetable oil such as a vegetable oil of first cold pressing, such as sunflower oil or soybean or an oil extracted from pollen for example by an organic solvent, by pressure or by CO ₂ supercritical.

It is also possible to mix agents providing a so-called texturing texture with the pollen, such as propylene glycol, polyvinyl alcohol, glycerol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, a gelling agent such as xanthan, pectin, an alginate, agar gum, without limitation. , for example carbopol.

It is also possible to supplement this mixture with a little 95 ° alcohol or alcoholic liquor having at least an alcoholic degree of 20 °.

We can also supplement the pollen with beeswax and / or propolis and / or honey.

According to a fifth aspect, the present invention also covers a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it comprises, as active principle, pollen from preferably fermented flowers or from its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, as defined above, alone or in combination with the other active ingredients mentioned above.

According to a sixth aspect, the present invention also covers a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the administration to a mammal, in particular a human being or an animal, of an effective amount of a pollen of preferably fermented flowers, or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, for the desired cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic effect. of the Advantageous characteristics of this process also emerge clearly from the advantageous characteristics previously described, in particular with respect to the use of an acid and / or the possible incorporation of an essential oil with the proportions indicated. Regarding the pollen, it can be fresh from the hive, or put to freeze a few hours to a few days after its collection by the bees. Thereafter, it can be lyophilized or dried or conditioned under vacuum or under a protective atmosphere such as nitrogen, carbon dioxide and / or oxygen. This pollen can also be autoclaved at 120 ° C for 15 min in solution in water or an aqueous solution.

As regards the nutritive broth used for fermentation, this may be distilled water and sterile or not. It can be non-sterile water containing organic matter or a solution enriched with microorganisms with a content greater than several million per gram of water. These microorganisms such as yeasts, lactic flora such as the genus bifidus or lactobacillus or streptococcus, can come from isolation from fresh pollen or from other sources.

For fermentation, the fermentation broth is added to the pollen at a concentration greater than 5% by weight, in practice generally an average concentration of between 20 and 40% by weight. This bath can be left macerated at a temperature between +10 and + 50 ° C optimally between about 25 ° C, that is to say at room temperature, at about 35 ° C, for a period of 1 h to 5 days, and generally 1 to 2 days.

At this stage after fermentation, centrifuge-filtration techniques can be used to recover the pollen or to concentrate the new solution in microorganisms.

As mentioned above, physical concentration techniques such as centrifugation, filtration, can be used to obtain microorganism contents greater than 1 million per gram, better at least 10 million per gram and even reach 1 billion per gram. pollen or culture or "broth". This broth may contain autoclave or high pressure treated pollen, for example pascalisation at more than 3000 bars for more than 60 min. One can also carry out an ionization treatment.

It is also possible to stabilize the non-fermented but preferably fermented pollen, using different stabilization techniques, in particular a treatment at high pressures and / or an addition of acidic substances, advantageously authorized in cosmetics or in pharmacies such as citric acid or lemon juice, an essential citrus oil such as lemon, orange, grapefruit.

All of the components of the invention can also be mixed with other cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable active principles or excipients, as is easily understood by those skilled in the art.

Other objects, characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear clearly in the light of the explanatory description which will be given with reference to several examples of compositions as well as various tests which have been carried out.

In the examples, all the percentages are given by weight and the temperature is room temperature and atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1 Basic composition according to the invention

A basic composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients:

a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 90 g

b) Commercial mint essential oil, for example mentha piperata about 5 g

c) Citric acid about 5 g

To prepare this composition, the citric acid is first mixed with the essential oil of mint, then the complex of bacteria cultures inactivated is incorporated and mixed until homogeneous.

This composition can be used as it is to constitute a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition to obtain the effects previously described according to the invention and which are also demonstrated by the tests given below. This composition can be applied once, topically to the affected areas of the skin of a mammal, preferably a human.

In this context, the following effects have been observed:

a) On fine lines and wrinkles

A single application of the above composition with a massage for ten minutes makes it possible to observe complete penetration of the composition, it has been observed that the wrinkles and fine lines are less deep, less long.

On the other hand, with a daily application for one or two weeks, we find that wrinkles and fine lines gradually fade.

b) Tissue relaxation From the first application of the above composition, there is a marked improvement in the contour and oval of the face.

c The crumpled appearance due to drying

From the first application of the above composition, there is a spectacular result, the skin becoming significantly smoother and firmer.

d) Dark circles

From the first application of the above composition, it is observed that the dark circles have a different relief which completely changes the look and gives the face a significantly younger and rested appearance.

e) Pockets

There is an immediate result from the first application with a tightening effect which reduces puffiness and also allows to obtain a firmness aspect which changes the whole expression of the look and thereby of the face.

f) Treatment of scars

It was also carried out tests to treat old scars. In this context, the length and width of the scar concerned is initially measured. Scars as old as thirty years have been treated.

We observe from the first application of a composition above, a change in the shape and appearance of the scar, the length and width, therefore the surface, decreases. A repeated application over several days will lead to an almost complete disappearance of this scar. The invention therefore makes it possible to obtain an exfoliation effect of old scars.

g) Repair of burnt tissue

To treat burned tissue, it is preferred to use a citric acid content of not more than about 3% by weight.

It is therefore possible to apply a composition according to the invention modified above to have a citric acid content of not more than approximately 3%, the complement possibly being constituted by a texture agent to obtain a cream which will be applied in a thick layer. on fabrics burnt by friction or by intense heat. From the first application, a visual improvement of these tissues is observed and after several applications, the appearance of a skin having an imprint essentially similar to the neighboring areas of skins which had not been subjected to burns. The composition of Example 8 below can also be applied.

h) Removal of pigment spots

By applying the above composition to the pigment spots, there is observed from the first application, a significant decrease in the intensity of the pigment spot and after a daily application for several days, a gradual disappearance of the pigment spot, which is remarkable.

This mixture does not cause hyperemia and brightens the complexion.

i) Promotion of the growth or regrowth of integuments including nails, hair or body hair

With application of the above composition, during a daily application for approximately two weeks, a significant effect of promoting the growth or regrowth of the integuments is observed. Furthermore, all of these effects are obtained without any significant side effect, in particular without comedogenic effect on the skin, which is an additional advantage for oily skin which hitherto was prone to blackheads when applying anti products. - wrinkles existing on the market which were too rich in fatty substances.

Example 2

Composition according to the invention

A basic composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients: a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 63 g

b) Commercial mint essential oil, for example mentha piperata about 7 g

c) Citric acid about 30 g

As composition can be used as it is to constitute a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition to obtain the effects previously described according to the invention and which have also been demonstrated by tests of the type of those explained in Example 1.

A much more marked effect is obtained for each of the above activities which constitutes a synergistic effect and which is due to a proportion of acids in the preferred advantage range of 5 to 30% by weight.

Example 3

Composition according to the invention more complete

A composition is prepared comprising the following active ingredients: a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German company Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 54 g

b) Commercial mint essential oil, for example mentha piperata about 7 g

c) Citric acid about 33 g

d) Rosemary essential oil available commercially about 6 g

The procedure is as described in Example 1, that is to say that the citric acid is first mixed with the essential oils, then the complex of inactivated cultures is added until complete homogenization.

This composition can also be used as it is to constitute a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition having the same activities as those of the composition of Example 1.

The effects described in Example 1 were effectively observed: a) On wrinkles and fine lines b) Tissue sagging c) The crumpled appearance due to drying d) Dark circles e) Pockets f) Treatment of scars g) Repair burned tissue h) Removal of pigmentation spots or redness on the skin i) Promotion of the growth or regrowth of integuments including nails, hair or body hair.

There is also a very significant improvement in the effects obtained for each of the activities compared to the effects obtained with the composition of Example 1. This improvement seems to be due to a combination of essential oil of mint and romain as well as to the proportion of citric acid. Example 4

Composition according to the invention

A composition can be prepared comprising the following active ingredients: a) Complexes of inactivated cultures of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 54 g

b) Commercial mint essential oil, for example mentha piperata about 5 g

c) Citric acid about 30 g

d) Rosemary essential oil commercially available about 5 g

e) Soluble collagen commercially available approximately 6 g

Example 5

Composition according to the invention

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 50 g

b) Mint essential oil about 5 g

c) Citric acid about 30 g d) Structural proteins, in particular soluble collagen about 15 g

For the preparation of this composition, the procedure is as in Example 1, that is to say first of all, citric acid is mixed with the essential oil, then the proteins, here soluble collagen, then finally the complex of cultures inactivated until complete homogeneity.

This composition can also be used as it is to constitute a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition exhibiting the activities described. This composition is applied to test each of the activities in an identical manner to Examples 1 and 2. There is a very good efficiency for each of the activities.

Example 6

Composition according to the invention A composition is prepared having the following active ingredients: a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 50 g

b) Mint essential oil about 5 g

c) Citric acid about 30 g

d) Hydrolyzate of structural proteins, in particular collagen hydrolyzate about 10 g

e) Protein hydrolyzate consisting of an elastin hydrolyzate approximately 5 g

The procedure is as described in the previous example simply by additionally adding the elastin hydrolyzate. This composition can also be used as it is to constitute a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition having the activities described.

Example 7

Composition according to the invention

A composition is prepared having the following active ingredients: a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 50 g

b) Mint essential oil about 5 g

c) Citric acid about 30 g

d) Structural protein hydrolyzate, in particular collagen hydrolyzate about 5 g

e) Protein hydrolyzate consisting of an elastin hydrolyzate approximately 5 g

f) Substance with a thickening effect, for example polyvinyl alcohol ... approximately 5 g

To prepare this composition, the procedure is carried out as described in Example 1, that is to say by first mixing citric acid with the essential oil or with the essential oils, among the other ingredients, except the agent thickener, then the complex of inactivated cultures and finally the thickening agent.

After having obtained complete homogeneity, this composition can be used as it is as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, then it will be noted that the presence of thickening agents makes it possible to obtain a chemical gumming effect as well as a mechanical effect promoting microcirculation in the capillaries close to the surface of the skin.

Example 8 according to the invention

Composition particularly suitable for repairing burned tissue

This composition has the following ingredients, as a percentage by weight: a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German Company

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 77 g

b) Mixture of essential oils of mint and rosemary (50/50 by weight) 3% c) Citric acid 3%

d) Soluble collagen 7%

e) Elastin 7%

f) Texturing agent such as 3%

The mixing is carried out in the order indicated in the previous examples, the texture agent being added last.

This composition is particularly suitable for treating tissues burnt by friction or by intense heat. From the first application, a visual improvement of these tissues is observed and after several applications, the appearance of skin having an imprint essentially similar to the neighboring areas of skins which had not been subjected to burns.

Example 9 according to the invention

A composition according to the invention which is currently preferred is prepared, comprising the following active ingredients:

Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® approx. 57 g

b) Mixture of essential oils of mint and rosemary (50/50 by weight) 7%

c) Citric acid about 27%

d) Soluble collagen about 9%

The mixing is carried out as described in Example 1. The best results are obtained with such a composition for all of the activities previously indicated in the preceding examples. An application protocol for this currently preferred composition which can also be used to apply the other compositions according to the invention is as follows:

a) possibly performing an exfoliation as is well known to the esthetician,

b) application of the composition only to the parts to be treated,

c) carrying out an exfoliation on these same parts especially in the case of treatment of wrinkled skin areas to perform mechanical work.

As a variant of this protocol, it is possible, before applying the composition according to the invention, to apply an moisturizing product to the entire face and then to make this mixture penetrate using a serum which penetrates very quickly and carries with it the active ingredients of the composition according to the invention. This serum may have the composition previously indicated in the present description.

Example 10 according to the invention

Cosmetic composition for nails

A composition is prepared having the following active ingredients, in percentage by weight:

1 °. Component A: about 70%

a) Inactivated culture complexes of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German company Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® around 57%

b) Citric acid about 27%

c) Mint essential oil alone or mixed with an essential oil of rosemary (50/50 by weight) about 7%

d) Soluble collagen about 9% 2 °. Component B: approximately 30% Discolored iodine tincture

For the preparation of this composition, the procedure is as in Example 1, that is to say first of all, citric acid is mixed with the essential oil, then the soluble collagen and finally the inactivated culture complex. until complete homogeneity, then component B is added to component A thus formed.

When this composition is applied to the nails, there is a positive effect on the growth of the integuments.

Example 11 according to the invention Cosmetic composition for the hair

The following composition is prepared:

1 °. Component A

Complexes of inactivated cultures of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German company Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® 100%.

2 °. Compound B: approximately 30% Minoxydil

The procedure is as described in the previous example, firstly mixing all the active ingredients of component A as indicated in this example 10, then adding component B in component A.

When this composition is applied every day, a quantifiable difference is observed from the second month of application. It is observed, first of all, small hair that grows everywhere in the balding area and then patches where the regrowth becomes denser.

Comparative example 12

The following composition is prepared:

Complexes of inactivated cultures of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus at 30% commercially available and marketed by the German company Biodroga Cosmetic GmbH under the name Biorepair® 100%. This composition applied topically to the skin, even for a week, gives no significant anti-wrinkle effect or any apparent effect on the appearance of old scars. There is also no effect with regard to skin healing, the elimination of pigment spots and the promotion of the growth or regrowth of the appendages.

Comparative example 13

The following composition is prepared:

Commercially available mint oil, 100% mentha piperata

This composition is applied topically to the skin, for a week, there is no detectable anti-wrinkle effect, old scars. Likewise, there is no effect of repairing burned tissue, scarring, no effect on age spots or any effect of promoting growth or regrowth of the appendages.

On the contrary, the essential oil of mint causes slight superficial burns.

Example 14 of the invention The following cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition is prepared: a) Pollen from fermented sunflower flowers having a concentration of living or inactivated microorganisms of approximately 10 million per gram approximately 4.5%.

This pollen consists of fresh pollen coming from the hive mixed with an aqueous solution enriched with lactic flora of the genus bifidus or lactobacillus or streptococcus with a content greater than 10 million microorganisms per gram of broth, broth representing 30% by weight of the pollen and after mixing the pollen with the broth, it is left to ferment or macerate at room temperature for 1 day. The fermented pollen is then collected by a conventional centrifugation-filtration technique which results in a concentration which allows a higher concentration of living or inactivated microorganisms, preferably around at least 10 million microorganisms per gram of concentrated products.

b) Mint essential oil about 5% c) Citric acid about 7%

d) Vegetable sunflower oil about 20%

e) Thickening agent, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrolydone 10%

f) Triethanolamine to bring the pH to about 5.5 about 1%

g) Gelling agent such as carbopol about 0.4%

h) Water of cosmetic and pharmaceutical quality, flavored QSP 100%

To prepare this composition, the citric acid is first mixed with the essential oil, and then the other ingredients, except the gelling agent and the thickening agent, then the fermented pollen, with only part of the water, the remaining part of the water used to mix the carbopol to form a pregel which will then be added to the prepared solution with the other ingredients after adding the gelling agent, so as to finally constitute a gel, as is well known to those skilled in the art. After obtaining a homogeneous gel, this composition can be used as it is, as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition.

An application of this composition topically on the skin, for 1 week, makes it possible to obtain an anti-wrinkle effect, smoothing, improving the grains of the skin, lightening it, reducing scars, superficial hydrating of the skin, softening for the skin, perfuming, regenerating the skin, as previously stated.

Example 15 of the invention Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition

a) Fermented pollen as used in Example 14 about 5%

b) Lemon or orange essential oil about 3%

c) Citrus juice, such as lemon juice about 30% d) Soybean vegetable oil first cold pressing about 10%

e) Substance with thickening effect, for example pectin or agar about 10%

f) Amino triethanol to bring the pH to about 5.5 about 1%.

g) Water of cosmetic or pharmaceutical quality, flavored QSP 100% o.

To prepare this composition, first mix the citrus juice such as lemon juice with essential oil, then the other ingredients, except the thickening agent, then the fermented pollen and finally the thickening agent .

After obtaining complete homogeneity, this composition can be used as it is as a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition with the same effects as those described in the previous example, but in a still reinforced manner.

Claims

1. Use of a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic acid bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials, for example preferably fermented pollen, or else an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus, in admixture with an essential oil, and an acid, preferably organic, in particular of a fatty acid, as cosmetic agent, in particular with skin regeneration activity , in particular anti-wrinkle, of exfoliation of old scars, repair of burned tissues, promotion of skin scarring, elimination of pigment spots and also promotion of the growth or regrowth of the appendages, including the nails and the hair or hairs.

2. Use of a microbial culture compatible in pharmacy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic acid bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials, for example preferably fermented pollen, or else an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this genus, in mixture with an essential oil and an acid, preferably organic, in particular of a fatty acid, for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition in particular with regeneration activity of the skin, in particular anti-wrinkle, of exfoliation of old scars, repair of burned tissues, promotion of skin scarring, elimination of pigment spots and also promotion of the growth or regrowth of the integuments, including the nails and hair or hairs.

3. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it comprises a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics or pharmacy, in particular a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials , for example preferably fermented pollen, or an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or related bacteria mixed with an essential oil, and an acid, preferably organic, in particular of a fatty acid.

4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises, as above-mentioned acid, citric acid used as it is or in the form of a derivative such as a salt or ester and in particular an alcoholic ester, or a citrus juice, such as lemon juice, orange juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, clementine juice, mandarin juice, or an essential oil of lemon or orange or other extracts rich in citric acid or tartaric acid, or ascorbic acid or lactic acid.

5. Composition according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that it comprises as essential oil at least one essential oil of plant chosen from the group consisting of an essential oil of mint, an essential oil of rosemary, an essential oil of thyme and an essential oil of cerpolet, or any of their mixtures.

6. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that it further comprises a protein in particular a structural protein such as collagen or elastin in particular their soluble form and also the hydrolysates of such proteins.

7. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 1 to about 90% by weight of the culture of the aforementioned microorganisms, in particular at a concentration of microorganisms of at least 1 million microorganisms , better at least 10 million microorganisms per gram of culture.

8. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 7, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight of essential oil of mint better still from approximately 1 to approximately 7% by weight d 'oil.

9. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 8, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, better still from approximately 1 to approximately 7% of an essential oil other than l mint essential oil, such as an essential oil of rosemary, thyme or cerpolet, the total essential oil content not being greater than about 10% by weight.

10. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 9, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 1 to approximately 50% by weight, better from approximately 5 to approximately 40% by weight and even better still between approximately 5 and approximately 30% by weight of the abovementioned acid.

11. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 10, characterized in that it comprises, as active ingredients, in percentage by weight: a) about 57% of an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or of bacteria related to this like 30%, b) about 27% citric acid, c) about 7% of essential oil of mint alone or mixed with an essential oil of rosemary (50/50 by weight), and d) about 9% of soluble collagen.

12. Composition according to one of claims 3 to 1 1, characterized in that the mixture or mixtures of the abovementioned active ingredients represent at most about 30% of the total composition, the balance being constituted by usual texturing agents, in particular cosmetic compositions available on the market.

13. Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the administration to a mammal, in particular a human being or an animal, of a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics, in pharmacy or in therapy, in particular of a culture of microorganisms chosen from acetic or lactic acid bacteria, lyophilized yeasts, suspensions of microorganisms, fermented organic materials, for example preferably fermented pollen, or alternatively of an inactivated culture of bacteria of the genus bifldobacterium or bacteria related to this genus, mixed with an essential oil and an acid, preferably organic, in particular a fatty acid.

14. Method according to claim 13, characterized in that this method comprises an application of the aforementioned mixture, in particular as defined in any one of claims 3 to 12, in an amount effective to obtain an anti-wrinkle effect, a scrub of old scars, repair of burned tissue, promoting skin healing, eliminating pigment spots or promoting the growth or regrowth of integuments, including nails and hair or hair.

15. Method according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that prior to the application of the above-mentioned mixture or of the composition as defined according to one of claims 3 to 12, a topical application is made to the area of the skin concerned. moisturizing agent such as a serum.

16. Method according to one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that a microbial culture compatible in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals or therapeutics, mentioned above, is used at a concentration of microorganisms of at least 1 million, better at least 10 million per gram of culture, either consisting of an inactivated culture of bifldobacterium or bacteria related to this genus, or consisting of a fermented organic material such as preferably fermented pollen.

17. Use of flower pollen, or of its aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, harvested by bees or not, unfermented or fermented as active ingredient of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular having an anti-wrinkle effect, smoothing , improving the texture of the skin, lightening, reducing the scar, superficial skin moisturizer, softening for the skin, perfuming, regenerating the skin.

18. Use according to claim 17, characterized in that the aforementioned pollen is combined with an essential oil of plant, in particular with an essential oil of mint, preferably peppery, an essential oil of rosemary, an essential oil of lemon.

19. Use according to claim 17 or 18, characterized in that the aforementioned pollen is combined with an acid such as organic preference, in particular a fatty acid.

20. Use according to claim 19, characterized in that the abovementioned acid is chosen from the group consisting of citric acid used as such or in the form of a derivative such as a salt or ester and in particular an alcoholic ester, or a citrus juice, such as lemon juice, orange juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, clementine juice, tangerine juice, or an essential oil of lemon or orange or other extracts rich in citric acid or tartaric acid, or ascorbic acid or lactic acid.

21. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, or of human or animal nutrition, characterized in that it comprises as active ingredient a flower pollen or an aqueous or organic extract, in particular lipid extract thereof, harvested by bees or not, unfermented or fermented, preferably having a concentration of microorganisms of at least 1 million, better still at least 10 million, per gram of pollen or extract.

22. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, according to claim 21, characterized in that it further comprises an essential oil of plant, in particular an essential oil of mint, preferably peppery, rosemary, thyme, cerpolet.

23. Composition according to claim 21 or 22, characterized in that it further comprises an acid, preferably organic, in particular a fatty acid, said acid preferably being chosen from citric acid used as such or in the form of a derivative such as a salt or ester and in particular an alcoholic ester, or a citrus juice, such as lemon juice, orange juice, lime juice, grapefruit juice, clementine juice, tangerine juice, or an oil essential lemon or orange or other extracts rich in citric acid or tartaric acid, or ascorbic acid or lactic acid.

24. Cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises the administration to a mammal, in particular a human being or an animal, of an effective amount of a pollen of preferably fermented flowers, or aqueous or organic extracts, in particular lipid extracts, for obtaining a desired cosmetic, pharmaceutical or therapeutic effect, in particular an activity for regenerating the skin, an anti-wrinkle activity, for exfoliating old scars, for repairing scars left by burns, favoring skin healing, elimination of pigment spots, allowing skin lightening, surface hydration of the skin, softening of the skin, perfume, in particular in the form of a composition as defined in any one of claims 21 to 23.