EP0933032B1 - Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente - Google Patents

Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0933032B1
EP0933032B1 EP99400125A EP99400125A EP0933032B1 EP 0933032 B1 EP0933032 B1 EP 0933032B1 EP 99400125 A EP99400125 A EP 99400125A EP 99400125 A EP99400125 A EP 99400125A EP 0933032 B1 EP0933032 B1 EP 0933032B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
textile support
threads
textile
support according
collar
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP99400125A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0933032A1 (fr
Inventor
Pierrot Groshens
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Original Assignee
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS filed Critical Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
Publication of EP0933032A1 publication Critical patent/EP0933032A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0933032B1 publication Critical patent/EP0933032B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars
    • A41B3/10—Collars chemically stiffened
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02—Linings
    • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/024—Fabric incorporating additional compounds
    • D10B2403/0241—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties
    • D10B2403/02411—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties with a single array of unbent yarn, e.g. unidirectional reinforcement fabrics

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a textile support for strengthening a neck shirt or equivalent part, to the application of such a textile support for the reinforcement of a shirt collar or equivalent part, and, finally, to a process of making such a pass.
  • the interlining or reinforcement pieces for the collar shirt are made either woven, for example polyester, or non-woven.
  • the current shirt collars have the disadvantage that the dimensional stability of the cervix cannot be fully guaranteed in time. Indeed, during successive washes of the shirt and therefore of the cervix, the stabilization provided by the reinforcement interlining of the cervix deteriorates, which causes a change in the length of the neck, particularly annoying. This loss of neck length can go up to 1.5 or even 2.5 cm or more.
  • the problem which is the basis of the invention is to stabilize dimensionally a shirt collar or equivalent piece, taking into account regular maintenance of this piece of clothing including washing and successive ironing.
  • the invention uses a textile support for collar shirt or equivalent part, in the form of a sheet of nonwoven fabric reinforced by a knitted fabric comprising a plurality of yarns stabilization, in particular of capstan wires, extending in the direction of the chain, between the columns of meshes.
  • the stabilization wires include capstan threads in the form of simple capstan threads and / or with floats.
  • the stabilization wires are distributed over at least one of the faces of the textile support.
  • the knitted fabric is preferably tossed.
  • the nonwoven fabric web can be made from fibers linked or weakly linked.
  • the tying or pre-tying process is chosen by depending on the nature of the materials used.
  • the nonwoven textile web is made from natural fibers, synthetic or artificial.
  • it can be made from continuous filaments synthetic or artificial, for example based on polyamide, polyester, viscose or mixtures thereof.
  • the knitted fabric is made from flat yarns and / or fibers, natural, for example cellulosic, synthetic, for example polyester or polyamide, especially polyamide 6 or 6.6, or artificial, for example viscose, or mixtures thereof.
  • the knitted fabric can be made from yarns synthetic textured multifilaments.
  • Stabilization threads are made from threads and / or fibers flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial, such as those described previously, or a mixture thereof.
  • the capstan threads are textured threads, obtained for example by a conventional technique of false twist, in using hot water, steam or hot air, or by air texturing technique.
  • the textile support may include also, on at least one of its faces, a sticky material or fusible intended for its subsequent association with the collar.
  • the invention relates to the application of such a support textile to a shirt collar or equivalent part, in order to improve its stability dimensional over time, particularly as a result of washing and ironing successive.
  • the dimensional stability of the cervix can be improved in its great direction, that is to say the neck or, alternatively, in its direction perpendicular to the great direction of the pass.
  • the invention relates to a shirt collar or piece equivalent comprising one or more pieces of fabric and, associated, at least a textile support as described above.
  • the textile support either functions as interlining, or functions reinforcement of interlining itself associated with the piece or pieces of the collar.
  • the textile support acting in itself as interlining comprises a coating of sticky or heat-bonded material for its association with the or to the neck pieces.
  • the textile support acts as interlining reinforcement
  • it can be combined with the interlining by heat sealing, simultaneously with fusing the interlining.
  • Such a interlining is made of cotton or equivalent.
  • the stabilization threads of the textile support are arranged in the long direction of the collar, that is to say the neck.
  • the textile support chain extends in the direction of the length of the neck.
  • the textile support chain extends in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the length of the neck.
  • a collar as just described may include two pieces of fabric, respectively from above and from below, associated with each other and between which is inserted at least one textile reinforcement support.
  • a method of realization of a collar as just described which includes a step consisting in associate at least one textile support as described with the piece (s) of cervical tissue.
  • the support is associated textile directly to the piece or pieces of fabric of the collar.
  • the support is first associated textile with a interlining and then the interlining thus reinforced is associated with the pieces of fabric forming the collar.
  • the textile support 1 of the invention is in the form of a nonwoven fabric 2 reinforced with a knitted fabric 3 with discarded mesh.
  • the knitted fabric 3 comprises, distributed over at least one of its faces, capstan wires 4.
  • the textile support 1 may include capstan yarns 4 on one only from its faces, the other face being substantially smooth.
  • the capstan wires 4 are simple (FIG. 1).
  • the capstan wires 4 can form over all or part of their length a float 5 ( Figure 2).
  • Float 5 is the relief obtained on wires when not maintained by all piers 6 of knitting 3.
  • a thread capstan is placed between each column of meshes.
  • the number of wires capstan per column of mesh may, however, vary.
  • capstan wire every the two, three or four columns of mesh.
  • capstan wires for example from two to four, between each column of meshes, or all two, three or four columns of mesh.
  • the capstan wires 4 can be located close to each other, at a distance a of the order of the length of a mesh b .
  • the length of the floats 5 can be of the order of the length of one to a few meshes b , in particular of the order of two to five meshes.
  • the capstan wires 4 can be evenly distributed over the textile support 1.
  • the capstan wires are produced from 7 yarns introduced into the knitted fabric 3.
  • the yarns with floats 5 can be made by the passage of these wires 7 on the same side of several rows or knitted stitches constituting knitting 3.
  • the wires 7 are introduced using conventional means. Depending on the desired effects, they may be straight or parallel to the knitting columns of knitting, or have piers under them giving the desired layout. When the wires pass on the same side of several rows or throws of stitches constituting knitting 3, i.e. thrown under 6 of these meshes, they acquire a float which gives them a relief.
  • the capstan threads with floats 5 are made from threads 7 in the direction of the chain and between the meshes, presenting for example a float 5 corresponding to at least two rows or throws of stitches in knitting 3.
  • the floats 5 of two wires neighbors 8, 9 are offset longitudinally. one relative to the other of a length corresponding to the length of a float 5 of a thread.
  • the floats of two neighboring wires can be arranged while being aligned between them, compared to the rows of meshs.
  • Simple capstan wires 4 or with floats 5 can be arranged on the side of the nonwoven fabric layer 2 opposite the side comprising the knitted fabric mesh 3.
  • the sticky or fusible material can be deposited for example, by a coating method, in the form of points or lines, for example a coating method by screen printing type.
  • the sticky or fusible material is for example one any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics on textiles to receive them.
  • It can be based on vinyl polymers, polyolefin, polyamide, high and low density polyethylene, copolyester, copolyamide, etc.
  • These substances can be in the form of powder or paste.
  • the textile support 1 as just described is specially intended for a shirt collar 10 or any other equivalent part and has for function of improving its dimensional stability over time, as a result of its successive washing or ironing.
  • the neck 10 comprises, in the embodiment shown, two parts, respectively from above 11 and from below 12, associated with each other and between which at least one textile support 1 is inserted (FIG. 3).
  • the parts 11, 12 are cut so as to present a part 13 called collar stand, intended to be associated by being adjacent to the main part of a garment, and a flap 14.
  • the two parts 11, 12 are associated with each other by being sewn on the periphery or in combination by heat sealing.
  • the stability dimensional sought is that in the great direction of this part, referenced D in Figure 3, that is to say in this case the neck.
  • the textile support 1 is arranged on the part 10 with the capstan wires arranged in the front direction be stabilized, in this case direction D.
  • the dimensional stability sought is the one acting in the direction perpendicular to the large direction of the pass.
  • the support textile 1 is associated with the collar 10 so that the capstan threads are arranged in the direction to be stabilized, in this case the direction perpendicular to the direction D.
  • the textile support 1 makes interlining function.
  • the textile support 1 comprises the coating of sticky or fusible material.
  • the textile support 1 is associated to a interlining 15, which is itself associated with the parts 11, 12.
  • the support 1 is associated with the interlining 15 by heat sealing.
  • Such a interlining 15 can be produced, conventionally, by cotton or equivalent.
  • the textile support 1 can be applied as reinforcement on a first layer of the same support 1 bonded to the cervical tissue.
  • the process for producing a collar as just described consists to include a step of association with the parts 11, 12 of at least one support textile 1.
  • the textile support 1 is either associated directly to parts 11, 12, or first associated with a interlining 15, which, thus reinforced, is then itself associated with parts 11, 12.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP99400125A 1998-01-28 1999-01-20 Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente Expired - Lifetime EP0933032B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9800913A FR2773956B1 (fr) 1998-01-28 1998-01-28 Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou piece equivalente
FR9800913 1998-01-28

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0933032A1 EP0933032A1 (fr) 1999-08-04
EP0933032B1 true EP0933032B1 (fr) 2003-11-26

Family

ID=9522264

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP99400125A Expired - Lifetime EP0933032B1 (fr) 1998-01-28 1999-01-20 Support textile de renforcement d'un col de chemise ou pièce équivalente

Country Status (16)

Country Link
US (1) US6250116B1 (zh)
EP (1) EP0933032B1 (zh)
JP (1) JPH11279802A (zh)
CN (1) CN1126477C (zh)
AR (1) AR014487A1 (zh)
AT (1) ATE254859T1 (zh)
CA (1) CA2260369A1 (zh)
CZ (1) CZ27199A3 (zh)
DE (1) DE69913007T2 (zh)
ES (1) ES2212479T3 (zh)
FR (1) FR2773956B1 (zh)
HU (1) HUP9900199A3 (zh)
PL (1) PL189456B1 (zh)
PT (1) PT933032E (zh)
SK (1) SK284401B6 (zh)
ZA (1) ZA99497B (zh)

Families Citing this family (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US7004361B2 (en) * 2002-07-26 2006-02-28 Daniel Thomas Collar-shaping device
USRE44271E1 (en) * 2004-05-11 2013-06-11 Capital Mercury Apparel, Ltd. Finished slot and adjustable shirt collar and method of manufacturing same
US8065747B2 (en) * 2004-05-11 2011-11-29 Capital Mercury Apparel, Ltd. Finished slot and adjustable shirt collar and method of manufacturing same
US7328821B2 (en) * 2004-08-18 2008-02-12 Dedo Richard G Collar holding device
EP1790242B1 (en) * 2005-11-29 2010-06-30 Arc'Teryx Equipment Inc. Laminated collar
US8065746B2 (en) * 2006-08-24 2011-11-29 Capital Mercury Apparel, Ltd. Multi-scored winged collar support
KR100914762B1 (ko) * 2008-09-18 2009-08-31 강정모 니트 옷깃용 신축성 니트 직물, 그 니트 직물의 제조방법 및 그 니트 직물을 이용한 셔츠 옷깃
US20110145974A1 (en) * 2009-12-23 2011-06-23 Robert Hookano Collar stay and a method for its use
US9603400B2 (en) * 2013-05-17 2017-03-28 Nike, Inc. Golf shirt with improved fit and contrast
JP6196747B1 (ja) * 2017-05-31 2017-09-13 東洋紡Ｓｔｃ株式会社 自動化洗濯プラント対応編地
CN111321544A (zh) * 2018-12-13 2020-06-23 深圳市金绒达新材料科技有限公司 一种针织服饰的处理方法
CN113699668B (zh) * 2021-08-30 2023-03-14 广东溢达纺织有限公司 针织横机领及其制造方法与衣服

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH654164GA3 (zh) 1979-07-31 1986-02-14
FR2531616B1 (fr) 1982-08-11 1986-01-24 Dhj Ind Europ Sa Procede de fabrication d'une matiere de renfort pour la rigidification localisee de textiles plats, et matiere de renfort ainsi obtenue
FR2570577A1 (fr) 1984-09-21 1986-03-28 Faing Cie Procede pour la fabrication de cols de vetements et notamment de cols de chemises, les cols et les vetements obtenus ainsi que l'outillage pour leur fabrication
FR2609873A2 (fr) 1987-01-28 1988-07-29 Borg Antoine Col de chemise a encolure de longueur reglable
FR2620138B1 (fr) * 1987-03-31 1989-12-15 Picardie Lainiere Support textile du type tricot maille, procede de fabrication d'un support textile, complexe draperie support textile et son procede de solidarisation a un second textile
EP0369046A1 (de) * 1988-11-15 1990-05-23 KUFNER TEXTILWERKE GmbH Bahnartiger oder aus einer Bahn gewonnener Einlagestoff mit quer zur Bahnrichtung sich ändernder Sprungelastizität
FR2644043B1 (fr) 1989-03-08 1992-03-20 Picardie Lainiere Textile thermocollant destine a l'entoilage et son procede de fabrication
FR2710078B1 (fr) 1993-09-17 1995-12-01 Picardie Lainiere Support textile biodégradable, en tricot maille trame, pour entoilage thermocollant.
FR2727136A1 (fr) 1994-11-22 1996-05-24 Dhj Ind Europ Procede de traitement d'un substrat de renfort thermocollant a incorporer dans un support textile a rendre infroissable et produit ainsi obtenu
FR2755832B1 (fr) * 1996-11-18 1999-01-15 Picardie Lainiere Support textile de renforcement du col de chemise ou piece analogue

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CZ27199A3 (cs) 1999-08-11
DE69913007D1 (de) 2004-01-08
PL189456B1 (pl) 2005-08-31
FR2773956A1 (fr) 1999-07-30
CN1126477C (zh) 2003-11-05
HUP9900199A3 (en) 2000-06-28
EP0933032A1 (fr) 1999-08-04
US6250116B1 (en) 2001-06-26
PT933032E (pt) 2004-04-30
DE69913007T2 (de) 2004-09-16
HU9900199D0 (en) 1999-03-29
SK8099A3 (en) 2000-08-14
SK284401B6 (sk) 2005-03-04
FR2773956B1 (fr) 2000-03-03
ES2212479T3 (es) 2004-07-16
CN1233438A (zh) 1999-11-03
ATE254859T1 (de) 2003-12-15
HUP9900199A2 (hu) 2000-04-28
ZA99497B (en) 1999-07-22
PL331070A1 (en) 1999-08-02
AR014487A1 (es) 2001-02-28
CA2260369A1 (en) 1999-07-28
JPH11279802A (ja) 1999-10-12

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