EP0911441A1 - Procédé de traitement avec des cellulases - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement avec des cellulases Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0911441A1
EP0911441A1 EP98660109A EP98660109A EP0911441A1 EP 0911441 A1 EP0911441 A1 EP 0911441A1 EP 98660109 A EP98660109 A EP 98660109A EP 98660109 A EP98660109 A EP 98660109A EP 0911441 A1 EP0911441 A1 EP 0911441A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
cellulase
cellulosic
treatment
process according
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EP98660109A
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German (de)
English (en)
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Arja Miettinen-Oinonen
Arja Puolakka
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AB Enzymes Oy
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AB Enzymes Oy
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Publication of EP0911441A1 publication Critical patent/EP0911441A1/fr
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating yarn by cellulase enzymes, to the treated yarn and to the treated fabric prepared from said yarn.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for reducing hairiness, decreasing the yarn number, improving the evenness of yarn and/ or decreasing the dustiness of yarn.
  • Cotton is mainly spun by two technically different methods: ring spinning and open-end spinning (rotor spinning), Open-end spinning is more common in Europe, whereas ring spinning is more common in Asia, Ring-spun yarn can be combed yarn or carded yarn, open-end spun yarn can only be carded yarn, Other spinning methods are available, but they are not used as often as the above-mentioned spinning methods.
  • Cotton yarn production usually begins with a cotton card, The card slivers are stretched in stretching machines in several steps, If combed yarn is produced, the slivers are combed to remove short hairs protruding from the yarn and to straighten the fibers.
  • open-end spinning shorter cotton fibers can be used than in ring spinning,
  • the structure and form of open-end spun yarn is different from ring-spun yarn,
  • the twist is not as clear as that of ring-spun yarn,
  • Short-fibered cotton cannot be used for textile products having a glossy surface
  • the tone of the colours is not "rich enough" for the eye,
  • the surface of the fabric easily becomes pilled and fuzzy,
  • the yarn is stiff and lacks elasticity, Products made of open-end spun yarn easily become wrinkled,
  • the surface of pile products such as velvet is fuzzy
  • Open-end spun yarn is 15 to 25 % cheaper, but its scope of application is restricted, In knitting it can merely be used as fleecy yarn, Open-end spun yarn is too stiff and hard to be used in preparing high quality knitwear.
  • the evenness of cellulosic yarn is a problem that depends on the raw material of the yarn and on the spinning method as discussed above,
  • the unevenness causing hairs and neps on the surface of ring-spun yarn is usually removed by combing the slivers before spinning, Combing is not used to improve the evenness of open-end spun yarn,
  • the scope of application is merely chosen to be suitable for the quality of the yarn.
  • Biofinishing has been used e.g, to remove all kinds of impurities and individual loose fibre ends that protrude from the textile surface.
  • the key benefits offered by biofinishing with cellulases lie in the permanent improval of depilling, a cleared surface structure due to reduced fuzz, improved textile handle, such as softness, smoothness and a silkier feel, improved drapability of the textile and improved moisture absorbability.
  • the employed cellulase can be produced, for example, by the species Trichoderma reesei, T. koningii, Penicillium sp or Humicola insolens.
  • a method for imparting a stone-washed appearance to denim garments by cellulase enzymes is disclosed, for example, in the US Patent No, 4,832,864.
  • the present invention aims at eliminating the problems relating to the prior art and it is an object of the present invention to provide a cellulase-treated spun yarn having reduced hairiness, a decreased yarn number, improved evenness and/or reduced dustiness.
  • the cellulase treatment step is carried out after spinning and reconing of the yarn onto yarn cones, but before the pretreatment of the yarn. If needed, the yarn is then bleached and dyed and other finishing steps such as waxing and sizing steps are performed. Waxing is specifically used for improving the running of yarn used in knitting machines.
  • the term sizing is used to refer to the treatment of yarns for example by starch before weaving in order to make warp yarn firm at loom.
  • the cellulase treatment step is carried out after the pretreatment.
  • the yarn is then bleached and dyed and other finishing steps such as waxing and sizing are performed, if needed.
  • the cellulase treatment step is carried out after bleaching. If needed, the yarn is then dyed and other finishing steps such as waxing and sizing steps are performed.
  • the cellulase treatment step is carried out after dyeing. After the cellulase treatment other finishing steps such as waxing and sizing steps may be performed.
  • the cellulase treatment step is carried out in connection with the dyeing step.
  • Cellulase enzymes cut the hairs protruding from the raw yarn surface and they are able to remove the thicker areas and neps from the surface of yarn. This improves the evenness of the yarn, resulting in a more even fabric or knit with a cleared surface structure (e.g. in knittings the stitch structure is clearer), reduced pilling and fuzz.
  • the hairiness of cellulase-treated yarn may be at least 10 % , preferably 20 %, most preferably 50 % smaller than the hairiness of untreated yarn.
  • the pilling and fuzz is reduced by at least 20%, preferably 50 % and most preferably 100 % compared to the pilling and fuzz in fabric prepared from untreated yarn.
  • the fabric prepared from the yarn is not dusty, because mechanical action removes dust from the yarn during the yarn processing steps.
  • the fabric prepared from the cellulase-treated yarn may carry at least 50 % less dust than a fabric treated by a substantially similar cellulase treatment. If the fabric or ready-made garment is subjected to a cellulase treatment the garment may carry some dust during the first few washes and initial use. The undustiness of the yarn is also very important for employees, rooms and facilities during knitting or weaving processes.
  • the dustiness of the yarn is 50 %, preferably 80% decreased compared to untreated yarn.
  • One further advantage of the present invention is that it can be difficult to find a suitable cellulase treatment for a fabric which is a blend of different cellulosic fibers.
  • the cellulase dosage and treatment time must be suitable for the weak as well as for the strong component of the fabric, e.g. linen/lyocell. This results in a treatment which is a compromise and in fact not ideal for either of the textile materials. If different cellulosic yarns are treated separately", the cellulase treatment time, dosage and other parameters can be optimized especially for each textile material.
  • One advantage of the present invention is that by means of a cellulase treatment of yarn the yarn number can be decreased.
  • the yarn number of cellulase-treated yarn may be 3 to 7 % smaller than the yarn number of untreated yarn. This is an advantage especially for open-end spun yarn. By open-end spinning it is not possible to prepare a yarn under 20 tex. Consequently, in applications where thin yarn is needed, the use of more expensive ring-spun yarn has been necessary. If open-end spun yarn is treated by the method of this invention the resulting yarn can be used instead of ring-spun yarn.
  • open-end spinning shorter cotton fibers can be used than in ring spinning.
  • the open-end spun yarn is hairier and visually dull because of its structure and in dyed yarn products the tone of the colours is not "rich enough" for the eye.
  • the yarn is stiff and lacks elasticity.
  • open-end spun yarn is 15 to 25 % cheaper, its scope of application is restricted.
  • One significant advantage of treating open-end spun yarn with cellulases is that from cheaper raw material it is possible to prepare high quality fabrics and knitwear. No combing of the yarn is needed. The tone of colours looks better, the yarn is bending and elastic and the products prepared from cellulase treated open-end spun yarn do not wrinkle easily. Hence the scope of application of open-end spun yarn can be remarkable widened.
  • Figure 1 Yarn number of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 2 Hairiness, length 1 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 3 Hairiness, length 2 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 4 Hairiness, length 3 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 5 Hairiness, length 4 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 6 Hairiness, length 6 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 7 Hairiness, length 8 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 8 Hairiness, length 10 mm, of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 9 Yarn breaking load of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 10 Yarn elongation of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 11 The thin places of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 12 The thick places of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 13 The neps of the reference cotton yarn and the yarns after treatment with cellulase in an ILMA dyeing machine.
  • Figure 14 Yarn number of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 15 Hairiness, length 1 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 16 Hairiness, length 2 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 17 Hairiness, length 3 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 18 Hairiness, length 4 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 19 Hairiness, length 6 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 20 Hairiness, length 8 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 21 Hairiness, length 10 mm, of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 22 Yarn breaking load of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 23 Yarn elongation of the reference cotton yarn, the yarn after treatment with cellulase in a Thies dyeing machine and after treatment with cellulase and dyeing.
  • Figure 24 Pilling of knitted reference cotton yarn, enzyme-treated cotton yarn and enzyme-treated and dyed cotton yarn after 125 rubs.
  • Figure 25 Pilling of knitted reference cotton yarn, enzyme-treated cotton yarn and enzyme-treated and dyed cotton yarn after 500 rubs.
  • Figure 26 Pilling of knitted reference cotton yarn, enzyme-treated cotton yarn and enzyme-treated and dyed cotton yarn after 2000 rubs.
  • Figure 27 The thin places of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 28 The thick places of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 29 The neps of the reference cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 30 Yarn number of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 31 Hairiness, length 1 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 32 Hairiness, length 2 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 33 Hairiness, length 3 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 34 Hairiness, length 4 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 35 Hairiness, length 6 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 36 Hairiness, length 8 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 37 Hairiness, length 10 mm, of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 38 Yarn breaking load of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 39 Yarn elongation of the of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference).
  • Figure 40 Pilling of the knitting made of the raw cotton yarn (reference), the scoured yarn (reference), the scoured enzyme-treated yarn, the scoured enzyme-treated and dyed yarn and the scoured and dyed yarn (reference) after 125 rubs, 500 and 2000 rubs.
  • yarn is treated by cellulase enzymes after spinning and after reconing in a raw yarn phase.
  • the cellulase treatment is followed by a pretreatment.
  • the pretreatment may be an alkalic treatment in the presence of caustic soda.
  • the pretreatment step may be followed by a bleaching step especially if light colours or white yarn are/is desired.
  • the bleaching may be done by well known bleaching chemicals such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • the yarn is dyed, if coloured yarn is produced.
  • the yarn may be then finished by well-known finishing steps such as waxing (for knit machines) or sizing. Waxing is specifically used for improving the running of yarn used in knitting machines.
  • the raw yarn is reconed on a perforated yarn cone before the alkalic pretreatment.
  • the cellulase treatment step may be performed on the same cones in the same machine as the pretreatment or bleaching or dyeing.
  • the cellulase treatment step must be carried out in a solution wherefore it should be performed within a wet processing step in the yarn processing procedure.
  • the cones are subjected to a cellulase solution circulating the yarn on the cones from different directions.
  • the solution may be pumped through the cone preferebly changing the direction of the liquid flow preferably in both directions, because the treatment should be as consistent as possible over the entire cone. It is advantageous to change the direction of the liquid flow at least once, preferable 5 to 10 times.
  • the cellulase treatment is carried out after the pretreatment step.
  • the cellulase treatment is carried out after the bleaching step, but before the dyeing step.
  • the cellulase treatment can be performed in the dyeing machine on the same cones as the dyeing.
  • the cellulase treatment step is performed after the dyeing step.
  • the cellulase treatment can be performed in the dyeing machine on the same cones as the dyeing.
  • the cellulase treatment step is performed in connection with the dyeing step.
  • the enzyme is added first, then the dye and there is no rinsing step with water between the steps, which saves time.
  • Fungi and bacteria can be used as source material for the cellulase composition of the present invention, whereby the cellulase compositions of this invention are preferebly derived from fungi, for example from species of the genera Trichoderma, Penicillium, Humicola, Fusarium or Melanocarpus, whereby Trichoderma reesei is preferably employed as the source material.
  • suitable strains include, for example, the wild type strain of T . reesei QM6a and the derived mutant strains, e.g.
  • the composition and the ratios between the CBH and EG components can be modified so as to obtain a desired composition.
  • a strain other than Trichoderma is used as the source material, it is possible, in a similar fashion, to modify the ratios of the types of cellulase produced by the employed strain and functionally corresponding to Trichoderma cellulases.
  • the modification of cellulase compositions can be done by biochemical fractionation methods or by genetically engineering the cellulase producing hosts as described in US 5,298,405.
  • Suitable enzyme dosages are 0.1 to 100 mg cellulase per gram of yarn, advantageously 1 to 50 and preferably 15 to 40 mg per gram of yarn.
  • Examples of typical commercial liquid cellulases that can be used in this invention are Biotouch® L, Biotouch® C 601, Biotouch® C25, Biotouch® NC40, Ecostone® L 20, Ecostone® L 300, Ecostone® C80, Ecostone® N400, Ecostone® N500, (Röhm Enzyme Finland Oy, Nurmijärvi, Finland). Other corresponding cellulases imparting the same effects may be used.
  • the suitable enzyme dosages for imparting the desired effects to yarn depend on the desired result, on the treatment method and the activity of the enzyme product.
  • a suitable enzyme dosage can be calculated on the basis of the weight of the yarn, the amount of the circulating solution, cellulase treatment time and concentration of the enzyme, and the type of the treatment (dyeing) machine.
  • Treatment media of yarn may contain, in addition to enzymes, e.g. surfactants, polymers as for example PVA and PVP polymers, buffers as for example citrates, acetates and phosphates for regulating the acidity of the solutions, possibly bulk agents, conventional preserving agents, stabilisers and abrasion agents.
  • enzymes e.g. surfactants, polymers as for example PVA and PVP polymers, buffers as for example citrates, acetates and phosphates for regulating the acidity of the solutions, possibly bulk agents, conventional preserving agents, stabilisers and abrasion agents.
  • the yarn liquid ratio may be from 1:5 up to 1:80, preferably 1:10 to 1:40, most preferably 1:10 to 1:20.
  • the treatment time may be 0.5 h to 2 h, preferably 1 to 1.5 h.
  • the pH range for applying the cellulase composition of this invention is dependent on the pH activity profile of the enzyme.
  • the pH may be adjusted to pH 3 to 10. preferably to pH 4.5 to 8 and most preferably to pH 5 to 6.
  • the enzyme treatment is stopped by raising the pH or temperature to such a high level that the cellulase enzyme becomes inactive.
  • the pH may be raised to a value above pH 9 and/or the temperature may be raised to a temperature above 85°C.
  • Enzyme activity is one concept applied in determining the properties of enzymes.
  • the enzyme activities used in the present patent application are ECU, CMC, FPU and MUL, which are defined as follows:
  • the endo-1,4-beta-glucanase in the sample hydrolyses the hydroxyethyl cellulose substrate, and the resulting reducing sugars are assayed spectrophotometrically using a dinitrosalicylic acid reagent (DNS).
  • DMS dinitrosalicylic acid reagent
  • the cellulase in the sample hydrolyses the filter paper used as a substrate, and the resulting reducing sugars are assaved spectrophotometrically using a DNS reagent.
  • the cellobiohydrolase (CBHI) and endoglucanase (EGI ) of the sample hydrolyse the 4-methylumbelliferyl-beta-D-lactoside that acts as a substrate, whereby methylumbelliferone is released that can be measured spectrophotometrically.
  • the method can be applied in the determination of cellobiohydrolase I (CBHI) activity.
  • the method also measures the endoglucanase I (EGI) activity, whose proportion can be determined by inhibiting the activity of cellobiohydrolase using 5 mM of cellobiose.
  • One MUL unit is the amount of enzyme activity that in one second under the determination conditions, releases 1 nmol of methylumbelliferone from 4-methylumbelliferyl-beta-D-lactoside (van Tilbeurgh et al . Meth. Enzymol. 160:45-59, 1988).
  • the endo-1,4-beta-glucanase in the sample hydrolyses the carboxymethyl cellulose substrate, and the resulting reducing sugars are assayed spectrophotometrically using a dinitrosalicylic acid reagent (DNS).
  • DNS dinitrosalicylic acid reagent
  • One unit of endo-1,4-beta-glucanase is defined as the amount of enzyme producing one nmole of reducing sugars as glucose in one second (Measurement of cellulase activities, Pure & Appl.Chem., Vol. 59, No. 2. pp.257-268, 1987).
  • the material of the treated yarn may be 100% cotton or 100% non-cotton cellulosic fibre or it may be a blend of different raw materials such as cotton, flax, ramie, jute or man-made cellulosic fibres, for example, viscose, modal, lyocell (e.g. Tencel®) or cupro. It may be a blend of cellulosic fibres and synthetic man-made fibres. In this invention the amount of cellulosic fibre in the yarn is advantageously at least 30 percent, preferably over 50 percent.
  • evenness of the yarn is meant here that the yarn does not contain any significant amount of thin places, which here means a 40% deviation from the mean value, or thick places, which here means a 50% deviation from the mean value. Neps are thicker places which differ by 200% from the mean value. Evenness was measured here by a Uster evenness tester (see example 1).
  • hairiness of the yarn is meant here that hairs of differing lengths protrude from the surface of the yarn. Hairiness was measured here by a Zweigle G565 hairiness tester (see example 1).
  • the yarn strength was measured here as breaking load and elongation according to SFS Standard 2810 by using an Alwetron drawing machine (see example 1).
  • the yarn number was measured according to the "tex" system.
  • the tex value indicates the mass of yarn having a length of 1 km in grams.
  • Yarn which is less than 20 tex is usually ring-spun yarn.
  • open-end spun yarn may be used.
  • the present invention decreases the yarn number and makes open-end spun yarn usable for several applications, where ring-spun yarn has previosly been used.
  • fabric is used here to refer to a woven fabric or a knitting.
  • Pilling means here small accumulations of fibre on the surface of the fabric. Pilling was tested here by a Martindale abrasion tester. The knittings were rubbed against standard wool fabric using various numbers of cycles ( here 125, 500 and 2000 cycles) and after each number of cycles the degree of pilling was evaluated in artificial day light by test persons.
  • ILMA pressure dyeing machine
  • the treatment was performed at pH 5, 50°C for one hour with a liquid ratio of 1:67.
  • the cellulase preparation was Ecostone® L (Röhm Enzyme Finland Oy, Nurmijärvi, Finland). Enzyme doses of 12 and 40 mg of total protein per gram of yarn were used.
  • the enzyme was inactivated by raising the pH to a value over 9. Then the yarn was rinsed with water three times 5 minutes.
  • a reference cone was treated under the same conditions as the cellulase-treated cones but without the cellulase.
  • the enzyme treated yarn was examined by the following methods:
  • a Uster evenness tester (Zellweger Uster, Switzerland) was used following the instructions of the manufacturer.
  • the speed of the yarn was 400 m/min and the testing time was 2.5 minutes.
  • a thin place was a place, which deviated by 40% from the mean value of the yarn and a thick place deviated by 50% and neps by 200% from the mean value.
  • a Zweigle G 565 hairiness tester (Zweigle Textilpruefmaschinen GMBH, Germany) was used following the instructions of the manufacturer.
  • the driving length was 100 m, speed 50 m/min.
  • the test was done three times in a row.
  • Rotor spun cotton yarn whose number was 50 tex was treated with a cellulase enzyme in an industrial-scale machine (Thies, open yarn dyeing machine, Germany). There was 26 kg of yarn in 21 cones (7 cones in one tube) in the machine. Before the cellulase treatment the cones were scoured with 3 g/l of 50% caustic soda at 95 °C for 30 minutes. The cellulase treatment was performed at pH 5 and 50 °C for one hour with a liquid ratio of 1:40. The cellulase preparation was Biotouch® C25 (Röhm Enzyme Finland Oy, Nurmijärvi. Finland). An enzyme dose of 38 mg of total protein per gram of yarn was used. After the treatment the enzyme was inactivated by raising the temperature to 85 °C for 10 minutes. Some of the yarn cones were dyed by a reactive dye according to the dye manufacturer's instructions.
  • the pilling was tested of the knitted reference cotton yarn, enzyme-treated cotton yarn and enzyme-treated and dyed cotton yarn by a Martindale abrasion tester.
  • the knittings were rubbed against standard wool fabric 125, 500 and 2000 times and they were evaluated in artificial day light by three persons.
  • the evaluation scale was 1 - 5 where 5 is the best grade.
  • Rotor-span cotton yarn whose number was 50 tex was treated with a cellulase enzyme in an industrial-scale machine, where the solution was pumped through the cone surface from inside out and from outside in of the cone (Thies, yarn dyeing machine, Germany). The direction of the solution was changed every 10 minutes. There was 25 kg of yarn in 21 cones (7 cones in one tube) in the machine. Before cellulase treatment the cones were scoured with 3 g/l of 50% caustic soda at 95 °C for 30 minutes. The cellulase treatment was performed at pH 5 and 50 °C for one hour with liquid ratio of 1:40.
  • the cellulase preparation was commercial cellulase preparation Biotouch C25 (Röhm Enzyme Finland Oy, Nurmijärvi, Finland). Enzyme dose of 38 mg of total protein per gram of yarn was used. After treatment the enzyme was inactivated by raising the temperature to 85 °C for 10 minutes. Some of the yarn cones was dyed by reactive dye according to the dye manufacturer's instructions.
  • the results show that compared to the reference samples (raw yarn and scoured untreated yarn) the yarn number as well as hairiness with hair lengths of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 and 8 mm were decreased after enzyme treatment. After dyeing, however, the yarn number and hairiness were increased to about the same level with both enzyme-treated and untreated samples.
  • the breaking load of the yarn was decreased about 20% and the elongation about 10% when comparing the scoured untreated yarn and the scoured enzyme-treated yarn. After dyeing the breaking load and elongation were decreased about 30% when comparing the scoured untreated dyed yarn and the scoured enzyme-treated dyed yarn.
  • the pilling of the knits was decreased after 125, 500 and 2000 rubs in the scoured enzyme-treated cone compared to the scoured untreated cone.
  • the pilling was clearly decreased after 2000 rubs in the enzyme-treated sample compared to the untreated sample, but after 125 and 500 rubs the pilling was the same with both enzyme-treated sample and untreated reference sample.

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EP98660109A 1997-10-27 1998-10-27 Procédé de traitement avec des cellulases Withdrawn EP0911441A1 (fr)

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FI974067 1997-10-27
FI974067A FI974067A0 (fi) 1997-10-27 1997-10-27 Process foer cellulasbehandling

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000034565A1 (fr) * 1998-12-10 2000-06-15 Genencor International, Inc. Traitement ameliore de tissus a la cellulase
WO2001053592A1 (fr) * 2000-01-22 2001-07-26 Precision Processes Textiles Traitement de textiles

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992007134A1 (fr) * 1990-10-16 1992-04-30 Genencor International, Inc. Procedes d'amelioration des caracteristiques de l'aspect et du toucher de tissu tisse en coton
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