EP0792591B1 - Thermobonded lining material and method for its manufacture - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to a fusible interlining and its manufacturing process.

It is known to make interlining fusible including a textile support on which is deposited, by coating, a layer of thermo-adhesive polymers distributed in points.

These linings are specifically intended to be laminated to another textile, for example a drapery, so as to constitute a complex whose physical properties, behavior, nervousness, flexibility, touch, volume, hand, ... can be controlled.

These properties of the complex result from the nature drapery, the nature of the textile support, the interlining, and also, the nature of the composition and mode of application of the thermo-adhesive layer.

After being made, the fusible interfacing must be able to withstand storage at room temperature. It is then necessary that the different layers of this product, usually stored in rolls, does not adhere with each other. Iron-on interfacing should not not have a tacky effect and adhesive properties at room temperature ("tack").

The fusible interfacing is later laminated on the draperies so as to obtain the complex sought.

Most often, this lamination is carried out at using a press operating at temperatures between 90 ° C and 160 ° C, under pressures of a few decibars at a few bars, for a while relatively short, on the order of 10 to 30 seconds.

During this phase, the thermo-adhesive polymers of the stabilizer must at least partially regain their adhesion properties.

Also during this operation, prevent these thermo-adhesive or fusible polymers do not pierce the drapery or produce returns, that is to say pierce the textile support of interfacing. But today, all the interlining fuses are provided so as not to have draperies on the drapery side.

Indeed, such piercings and returns would produce an unsightly effect, making the interfacing unfit for use or, at the very least, would give the complex of harmful properties contrary to those wanted.

• de provoquer la migration d'une partie des polymères thermoadhésifs sur la face opposée à celle initialement thermocollante du textile entoilage. Ce phénomène a pour effet négatif de faire adhérer l'envers de l'entoilage thermocollant sur le textile de doublage (la doublure, revers, etc...) au cours de l'opération de repassage, pressage du vêtement.
• du fait de la pénétration des polymères dans le support textile, de le rigidifier par le collage des fibres et/ou des fils entre-eux.

The main consequences of these piercings are:

• to cause the migration of part of the thermoadhesive polymers on the face opposite to that initially fusible of the interlining textile. This phenomenon has the negative effect of making the back of the fusible interlining adhere to the lining textile (the lining, lapel, etc.) during the ironing and pressing operation of the garment.
• due to the penetration of the polymers into the textile support, to stiffen it by the bonding of the fibers and / or the threads therebetween.

From the origin of the use of interlining iron-on and return phenomena have been found and many attempts have been made since to avoid these faults.

Document FR-A-2 177 038 thus proposed to interlining by successively depositing two layers of adhesive on a textile support. The first one layer is produced by coating a dispersion viscous (paste) containing high viscosity polymers and / or high melting point higher than that of temperature required for fusing, directly on the textile support by means of a printing frame screen printing.

The second layer is made by dusting a powder of fusible polymers of viscosity and / or melting points lower than those of the first layer.

The dough points of the first layer, because of the nature and composition of the compounds la constituent, have their adhesive surface up to the phase subsequent drying. So the thermo-adhesive material dispersed as a fine powder over the support coated textile is deposited by gravity on the entire support, but adheres more firmly to the dough point.

The materials used for the underlay having a higher melting point than those of the thermo-adhesive layer thus forms a screen, the adhesive does not flow theoretically not through the textile support when the interlining is laminated to a drapery.

However, the points of the underlay being spherical or ellipsoidal shape, the material particles thermo-adhesive stick on the whole surface of the point of dough, especially at the point of contact between the dough point and the textile support; with the consequence that the thermo-adhesive material present at the point of contact through the textile support without the underlay being able to screen when laminating, crossings then appearing.

On the other hand, the underlay penetrates more or less in the textile support, during direct coating, made of its irregular surface. So the adhesive surface of the underlay is variable, and therefore the quantity of particles also, with consequences harmful on the adhesion forces between the interlining and the drapery, and particularly on the inhomogeneity of these adhesion forces.

A first object of the present invention is to offer fusible interlining and its process manufacturing which overcomes the limits or disadvantages of those known from the state of the art.

More specifically, an object of this invention is to provide a fusible interfacing with which the thermo-adhesive material does not flow through the textile support when applied to a drapery.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a fusible interlining and its method of manufacturing in which the adhesive is not in contact with the textile support, but only with the part top of the underlay.

• on dépose, au moyen d'un cadre d'impression sérigraphique sur un support de transfert comportant une surface régulière et lisse, une sous-couche de polymères en pâte réticulable ou en dispersion dans un solvant dont le point de fusion est supérieur à une température de thermocollage prédéterminée ;
• on transfère les points de surface plane ainsi obtenus sur le support textile ;
• on applique des particules de polymères thermocollants sur la sous-couche ;
• on fait défiler l'entoilage thermocollant ainsi obtenu dans une enceinte de chauffage et/ou de rayonnement, de manière à assurer la réticulation et/ou la mise en fusion de la pâte ou de la dispersion.

To this end, the invention relates first of all to a process for manufacturing a fusible interlining in which a textile support receives a coating of fusible polymers distributed in points, characterized in that successively:

• a sublayer of polymers in crosslinkable paste or in dispersion in a solvent whose melting point is higher than a temperature is deposited, by means of a screen printing frame on a transfer support comprising a regular and smooth surface predetermined heat sealing;
• the points of flat surface thus obtained are transferred to the textile support;
• particles of fusible polymers are applied to the undercoat;
• the fusible interlining thus obtained is passed through a heating and / or radiation enclosure, so as to crosslink and / or melt the paste or the dispersion.

The transfer medium can be a cylinder or a endless carpet.

According to one embodiment, the iron-on polymer particles by dusting then the polymer particles which are not in direct contact with the points of the underlay.

According to another aspect, the invention proposes also a fusible interlining characterized in that that it is obtained by implementing the conforming process to the invention.

• la figure 1 est une vue schématique d'un dispositif illustrant le procédé de fabrication d'un entoilage selon l'invention ;
• la figure 2 est une vue schématique d'un autre mode de réalisation du dispositif illustrant le procédé de fabrication d'un entoilage selon l'invention ;
• la figure 3 est une vue schématique, en coupe transversale, d'un entoilage thermocollant obtenu par la mise en oeuvre d'un procédé de fabrication conforme à l'invention ;
• la figure 4 est une vue schématique, en coupe transversale, d'un entoilage thermocollant de l'état de la technique.

Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become apparent on reading the following description made with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

• Figure 1 is a schematic view of a device illustrating the method of manufacturing a stabilizer according to the invention;
• Figure 2 is a schematic view of another embodiment of the device illustrating the method of manufacturing a stabilizer according to the invention;
• Figure 3 is a schematic view, in cross section, of a fusible interfacing obtained by the implementation of a manufacturing process according to the invention;
• Figure 4 is a schematic view, in cross section, of a fusible interfacing of the prior art.

According to the invention, a fabric is made fusible 1 which includes a textile support 2 comprising on one of its external faces points 3 of thermo-adhesive polymers.

The textile support 2 can be known per se. It is of the same nature as those conventionally used in the area of interlining.

It can be a woven or knitted fabric or of a nonwoven. Most often these textiles are processed and then subjected to finishing operations before being used as a coating support.

Two layers of polymer coating divided into points 5, 10 are successively applied to the support textile 2.

For this purpose, the first layer is deposited 5 of polymers in paste form or dispersion in a solvent such as water in the form of points distributed over a transfer support 6, 7, flat or convex and comprising a regular and smooth surface. The melting point of these polymers is higher than the heat bonding temperature and therefore at the melting point of fusible polymers.

The transfer support 6, 7 can be a cylinder 6 or a transfer mat 7, which preferably forms a closed loop, circulating on transport cylinders 8a, 8b.

The deposition of this screen underlay is made using a screen printing frame 4. This rotary frame, known in itself, cooperates with a doctor blade 4a, on the one hand, and with a counter-cylinder which, according to the case, is the transfer cylinder 6 or the transfer cylinder transport 8a of the transfer belt 7.

The axes of the screen printing frame 4 and the cylinder of transfer 6 or transport cylinder 8a are parallel between them and perpendicular to the direction of travel of the textile support 2.

The screen printing frame 4 allows the implementation coating processes in paste form or in dispersion in a solvent such as water.

In the case of coating processes wet very fine polymer powders, in dispersion aqueous, are applied to the support by a doctor blade hollow installed inside the rotary cylinder which has a thin perforated wall. The doctor blade 4a produces the passage of the paste through the openings of the screen printing cylinder 4.

The composition of sublayer 5 is variable depending on the applications. In some cases, finely ground materials with a melting point higher than that of fusible particles 10, by for example polyethylenes. In other cases, we use chemically reactive materials so that their reactivity brings them to an equally superior fusibility with fusible particles 10, such as resins aminoplasts, acrylics, and urethane-acrylate resins, polyurethane, epoxy resins.

In order to make a coating paste with these polymers, they are used finely ground in dispersion in water. To obtain a pasty state of this mixture, thickeners are optionally added.

This paste is then deposited on the cylinder of transfer 6 or the transfer mat 7 and then undergoes transformations aimed at transforming the solvent into all or part, and / or melt the finely ground polymer or to activate by radiation polymers sensitive to radiation sources (such as U.V., E.B., ...). This pretreatment 16 of the sub-layer 6, prior to its transfer, allows it to be more homogeneous, more coherent so as to facilitate its transfer.

The next step is to transfer the network from points of the underlay 5 on the textile support 2. For allow the transfer, the textile support 2 is pressed, according to the embodiment shown in Figure 1 between the transfer cylinder 6 and a back pressure cylinder 9; and according to the embodiment shown in Figure 2, the textile support 2 is pressed between the transport cylinder 8b of the transfer belt 7 and the back pressure cylinder 9.

The transfer support 6, 7 is tangent respectively to the screen printing frame 4 in a zone 14 and to the textile support 2 in a zone 15, said zones 14, 15 being in the same plane or in parallel planes. The OR the planes containing the axes of rotation of the frame screen 4, transfer cylinder 6 or mat transfer 7, and the back pressure cylinder 9 are perpendicular to the plane of the textile support 2.

The textile support 2 is tangent to each of the two cylinders 6, 9 or 8b, 9 between which it scrolls, at the zone 15.

Therefore, because the adhesion energy underlay 5 / textile backing 2 is greater than that of the underlay 5 / transfer support 6, 7, the location of the transfer takes place at the point of contact between the support 6, 7 and the textile support 2.

The points of sublayer 5 thus transferred have a flat surface and a small thickness and are arranged on the surface of the textile support 2. On the other hand, their surface is adhesive.

A device then makes it possible to disperse the fusible polymer particles 10 on the support textile 2 coated with the underlay 5. In this way, the particles 10 adhere to the surface of the undercoat points 5 adhesive.

These fusible polymer particles 10 can be polyamide or polyester particles with a particle size between 60 µm and 200 µm. The latter stick to the flat surface of the points of underlay 5 transferred, for one part, the other remaining in contact but not adhering to the surface of the support textile 2.

In order to rid the textile support 2 of excess particles 10, and keep only the particles 10 stuck to the flat surface of the points of the underlay 5, the assembly is subjected to a vacuum 11 and to a violent hype.

The textile support 2 coated with points 3 of fusible polymers, then passes through an enclosure 12 heating and / or radiation in particular to evaporate the solvent contained in sublayer 5 if necessary, transform the latter so that its melting point be higher than the thermo-adhesive material 10 and put in fusion the thermo-adhesive particles 10.

The invention also relates to a stabilizer fusible 1 obtained by implementing the process which has just been described.

The beneficial properties of the interlining fusible 1 come from the special layout particles of fusible polymers 10 vis-à-vis the sub-layer 5. The latter completely screens the fusible particles 10. That is to say that these particles 10 are not in contact with the support textile 2, but only with the upper part of the thin and perfectly flat underlay 5 (Figure 3). Through therefore, when interlining 1 is laminated to a drapery, the fusible particles 10 do not flow, under the effect of temperature and pressure, in the textile support 2 since the underlay coincides exactly with the points of fusible particles 10.

This was not the case with the interlining from the prior art because the dispersion of particles on underlay points directly coated with a frame screen-printed on a textile support, left the possibility for certain particles to stick to the periphery of the underlay points (figure 4). From this fact, the thermo-adhesive substance 10 could flow through the textile support 2 at the creep zones 17. While this possibility does not exist for fusible interlining 1 according to the invention, because the sublayers is transferred.

The invention will now be described by means of two examples given as an indication but not limiting.

EXAMPLE I

Screen printing frame:

• point network: 75 holes per cm ²
• frame hole diameter: 300 µm

Underlay material: Polyethylene

Constitution of the dough:

• polyethylene powder with a particle size less than 80 µm 25%
• water 60%
• adjuvants 10%
• thickener 5%

Thermo-adhesive material: Polyamide, powder with a particle size between 60 µm and 200 µm

Textile support: knitted fabric, chain, single polyester with textured polyester weft. weight of 30 g / m ²

Fusible interlining: total weight: 42 g / m ² , 4 g of which represents the weight of the underlay and 8 g of polyamide.

EXAMPLE II

Screen printing frame 45 holes per cm ² hole diameter: 320 µm Underlay material Acrylic polymer and aminoplast Composition of the dough Acrylic polymer 50% Aminoplast 15% Water 25% Various 10% Thermoadhesive material Polyamide in particles from 60 to 200 µm

EXAMPLE III

Screen printing frame:

• 45 holes per cm ²
• hole diameter: 320 µm

Composition of the dough:

• urethane-acrylate

Thermoadhesive material:

• polyamide in particles from 60 to 200 µm

Textile support:

• knitted fabric, with textured polyester weft.

Claims (11)

1. A process for manufacturing a fusible interlining (1) wherein a base fabric (2) receives a coating of thermofusible polymers distributed in points (3), characterised in that the following steps are successively carried out :

   depositing a sublayer (5) of polymers, in the form of a cross-linkable paste or a dispersion in a solvent, whose melting point is superior to a predetermined thermofusing temperature, on a transfer medium (6, 7) comprising a regular and smooth surface, by means of a silk screen printer (4) ;

   transferring the flat surface, low thickness points thus obtained onto the base fabric (2) ;

   applying particles of thermofusible polymers (10) on the sublayer (5) ;

   running the fusible interlining (1) thus obtained through a heating and/or radiation chamber (12) so as to ensure the cross-linkage and/or melting of the paste or dispersion.
2. A process according to claim 1, characterised in that the particles of thermofusible polymers (10) are applied by powdering and in that the thermofusible polymer particles (10) which are not directly in contact with the points of the sublayer (5) are then drawn up.
3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the transfer medium is a roller (6).
4. A process according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the transfer medium is an endless conveyor (7).
5. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the polymer of the sublayer (5) is selected among those having a melting point superior to that the thermofusible particles (10).
6. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the polymer of the sublayer (5) is a polyethylene.
7. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the polymer of the sublayer (5) is selected among the group made up of aminoplastic mixtures, acrylic resins, aminoplastic resins, polyurethanes.
8. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 7, characterised in that the sublayer (5) is submitted, prior to its transfer, to a preliminary treatment so as to make it more homogeneous.
9. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the transfer medium (6, 7) is tangent to the screen printer (4) in a region (14) and to the base fabric (2) in an region (15), respectively, said regions (14, 15) being located on the same plane or on parallel planes.
10. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 9, characterised in that the thermofusible particles (10) have a size grading comprised between 60 and 200 µm.
11. A process according to anyone of claims 1 to 10, characterised in that the thermofusible particles (10) are polyamide, polyester, polyurethane or polyethylene particles.

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