EP0774216A1 - Schuhwerk und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung - Google Patents

Schuhwerk und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0774216A1
EP0774216A1 EP96402378A EP96402378A EP0774216A1 EP 0774216 A1 EP0774216 A1 EP 0774216A1 EP 96402378 A EP96402378 A EP 96402378A EP 96402378 A EP96402378 A EP 96402378A EP 0774216 A1 EP0774216 A1 EP 0774216A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sole
bowl
footwear
vamp
mold
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP96402378A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
François Berasategui
Michel Berasategui
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0774216A1 publication Critical patent/EP0774216A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/02—Footwear stitched or nailed through
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00—Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/10—Low shoes, e.g. comprising only a front strap; Slippers
    • A43B3/108—Low shoes, e.g. comprising only a front strap; Slippers characterised by the sole

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an article of footwear, of the kind in particular of those well known in the art under the term of espadrilles.
  • Such an article conventionally comprises two main parts, respectively a sole generally produced by means of a jute braid or a similar material, and a canvas upper, or even in soft leather or other material of the same type.
  • the braid of the sole is suitably wound on itself to the profile of the foot, sewn in its thickness and finally shaped in its middle zone to delimit on either side of the latter respectively a front part on which rests the sole of the foot and the end thereof, and a rear part on which the heel rests.
  • the upper in canvas or the like preferably comprises two elements preassembled with each other by sewing, one forming the front of the footwear and receiving the end of the foot, while the other is extends backwards, surrounding the heel to connect on each side to the front part.
  • the sole and the vamp are mounted one under the other and sewn laterally along the periphery of the sole, with a stitch, especially of the chain stitch type, single or double, the vamp being generally decorated in its end which is at the tip of the sole by a complementary pattern made with the same seam and intended to strengthen the solidity of the canvas in this place.
  • sewing can be carried out mechanically for the most ordinary articles, or even by hand for better quality espadrilles and whose aesthetics are thus improved.
  • This kind of footwear relatively inexpensive compared with other equally traditional shoes, even when made by hand, provides the user with comfort that is highly appreciated thanks to the material of the sole and the 'Quickly optimal adaptation of the vamp to the shape of the kick due to the corresponding deformation of the fabric which wraps it best.
  • This protective coating can be continuous covering the entire sole or be provided only at the ends thereof, at the tip of the foot and under the heel. It can also have various forms, from one manufacturer to another.
  • connection of the reinforcements under the sole is moreover frequently insufficient, so that these reinforcements quickly tend to separate from the jute surface.
  • they are generally very thin so as not to completely eliminate the feeling of comfort provided by the sole of the rope in its support on the ground, which makes them ineffective beyond a relatively short period of use after which they are too worn to properly fulfill the function assigned to them.
  • the subject of the present invention is an article of footwear of the espadrille type, as defined above but improved so as to avoid the drawbacks of traditional manufacturing, while retaining to this article the comfort and comfort which have ensured its reputation while avoiding premature wear and deterioration of the sole which inevitably occurs in conventional articles as soon as this sole is wet, in particular in rainy weather and on wet ground, the sole being fully and effectively protected.
  • the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing an improved footwear of this type.
  • the article of footwear under consideration comprising a jute sole or of a similar material, conforming to the profile of the foot, and an upper of canvas, flexible leather or the like, enveloping the foot on the front and around the heel, this upper being sewn with the sole on the periphery thereof, is characterized in that it comprises a thin cup, made of a flexible and waterproof material, comprising a bottom of the same contour as that of the sole and a raised edge, able to surround the sole laterally, this edge extending from the bottom substantially over the height of the latter and comprising over its entire length, near its end opposite the bottom, a plurality of holes, preferably non-through, directed towards the inside of the bowl receiving the sole, these holes being intended to allow simultaneous sewing of the sole, of the bowl and of the vamp along the periphery of the article.
  • the jute sole or the sole made of any other material naturally "pierced” by the needle, or provided with “holes” allowing sewing is entirely contained inside the front bowl that it is secured, at the same time as the latter, to the upper, so that the presence of water, in the form of puddles or runoff, does not risk wetting the sole, which is fully protected , not only on its underside bearing on the ground but also on its sides.
  • the presence of the thin bowl made of a material having a suitable flexibility, on the other hand makes it possible to preserve in the footwear all the qualities of comfort of a traditional sneaker, the foot of the use remaining notably maintained by the upper and, inside it, in contact with the jute rope of the sole.
  • the thin bowl is produced by molding and injection of a suitable material, in particular of the PVC or vulcanized synthetic rubber type, or more generally using any plastic material, capable of being polymerized inside the mold, of the type of those commonly used to constitute the reinforcements of the jute soles of a classic sneaker.
  • a suitable material in particular of the PVC or vulcanized synthetic rubber type, or more generally using any plastic material, capable of being polymerized inside the mold, of the type of those commonly used to constitute the reinforcements of the jute soles of a classic sneaker.
  • the bottom of the cup can be shaped so as to have a flat or slightly arched surface before the heel area.
  • This bottom may in particular have a constant thickness over its entire extent or variable, while being slightly greater at the level of the heel.
  • the lower surface of the bottom of the bowl, in contact with the ground may include ridges or other patterns in relief towards the outside, providing better adhesion while reducing the overall wear of the bowl.
  • the average thickness of the bowl, at its bottom and its lateral edge is between 1.5 and 3 mm, more advantageously still is of the order of 2 to 2.5 mm.
  • the sole, the cup and the upper are sewn together by means of a thread making a chain stitch, this thread crossing first the bowl through a hole in the edge of it, the opposite side of the jute sole, then the vamp from the inside of it, this wire then folded back and introduced into the next hole.
  • the method of manufacturing the footwear according to the invention consists in producing a bowl by injecting a flexible and waterproof material into the enclosure of a mold comprising a base against which the bottom of the bowl is formed. and a side wall provided with a series of projecting radial nails, directed towards the inside of the mold, to introduce inside this mold a matrix delimiting with the base and the side wall a housing the dimensions of the bowl where the material is injected, then to extract the bowl from the mold after removal of the matrix, following a bending suitable for separating this bowl from the radial nails having formed the non-through holes, then housing the jute sole in the bowl, to mount the vamp on the sole, and finally to sew together the bowl, the sole and the vamp by means of a thread which crosses the edge of the bowl successively each of its bores, enters the sole and returns through the base of the vamp to engage in the next hole and so on over the entire periphery of the sole.
  • the reference 1 designates a bowl-shaped part, produced by any suitable process and preferably by molding and injection of a material of the synthetic rubber type, plastic material of the PVC type, or of another commonly used material. used in the manufacture of shoe soles, in particular such as that known under the name of TR.
  • the bowl 1 has a bottom 2 and a lateral edge 3 which extends vertically from this bottom, this edge comprising in its external surface, directed towards the outside of the bowl, a plurality of non-through holes 4 (see also the sectional view of Figure 5), the role and the manufacturing process will be specified below.
  • the bottom 2 and the edge 3 of the bowl 1 have a relatively limited thickness, of the order of 1 to 3 mm and preferably about 2 to 2.5 mm, in order to keep the bowl a suitable flexibility while giving it an appreciable ability to withstand wear, in particular for the bottom, the underside of which is intended to come into contact with the ground, when the article is finished.
  • the thickness of the cup 1 can be identical at all points or present, as schematically illustrated in FIG. 1, a variation in thickness, in particular in the region 5 of the heel of the footwear, while providing in front of this heel a slightly arched part of connection with the front region corresponding to the sole of the foot.
  • the bottom 2 has a flat surface, the opposite surface being furthermore advantageously able to be provided with ridges, ribs or other protruding patterns 8 (FIG. 5) intended to improve the attachment to the ground of the footwear and to limit wear on the bottom 2.
  • the bottom 2 of the bowl 1 is filled with a filling of plastic material, produced in particular in the form of cells .
  • FIG. 2 illustrates a thick sole 9, produced as is conventional for a sneaker, by means of a cord 10, jute or other similar material having the same appearance and the same consistency, this cord being suitably wound on itself to match the general shape of a footprint, the winding being held transversely by stitching points such as 11, very schematically shown in the drawing, before the sole is conformed to the press, according to a process in itself well known.
  • the jute sole 10 is placed inside the bowl 1, the side edge 3 thereof having been produced during its manufacture, so that it corresponds substantially to the height of the sole and that the latter is approximately flush with the end of this edge which in these conditions surrounds it completely over the entire periphery of the article in question.
  • the two parts 13 and 14 of the upper are sewn together at 15 and preassembled before the latter is mounted on the cup and the sole.
  • the seam thus produced can be made with any suitable stitch, in particular of the chain stitch type 19, simple as illustrated in FIG. 6, or double, the nature of this point being of course without any impact on the invention itself.
  • this seam can come to form, in front of the part 13 of the upper, a reinforcement 19a, customary in this type of article.
  • the upper 12 is made of canvas, it is sewn directly with the cup 1 and the sole 9.
  • the cup 1 and the sole 9 When it is made of flexible leather or the like, provision may be made in its base 18 where the sewing of the pre-drilled holes 20, although these are generally not necessary.
  • Figure 7 illustrates the structure of the mold in which can be made the bowl 1 of the article considered.
  • This mold mainly comprises an enclosure 21 with a base 22 and a side wall 23, the enclosure being designed to cooperate with a matrix 24 which engages therein delimiting a hollow housing 25 whose volume corresponds to that of the bowl 1.
  • the matrix 24 includes a shoulder 26, capable of limiting the height of the lateral edge 3 and a flat blank 27 against which the surface of the bottom 2 of the bowl receiving the sole 9 will be produced in the manner already described.
  • the base 22 optionally includes grooves (not shown) for the formation of the ridges 8.
  • the enclosure 21 has radial nails 28, directed transversely and capable of projecting inside the hollow housing 25 where the material constituting the bowl 1 is then injected, these nails allowing in these conditions the formation of non-through holes 4 within the lateral edge 3 of this bowl.
  • the dimension of the nails 28 is chosen by construction, so that the film of material 29 which remains behind the bore 4, is sufficiently small so as not to interfere with the sewing by the thread 16 and the needle 17 in the way already described.
  • the assembly is easy to manufacture and requires no other technicality than that currently mastered for the manufacture of traditional espadrilles, the cost of the product being practically the same.
  • the invention is not limited to the embodiment more specifically described above with reference to the accompanying drawings; on the contrary, it embraces all its variants.
  • the bottom of the bowl is shaped to include a heel in the corresponding region of support on the ground
  • the latter may have, in a manner known per se, internal cells, obtained during of the molding of the bowl, the flat blank of the matrix penetrating into the enclosure of the mold having protruding parts, allowing these cells to be produced directly, to which the jute sole is then applied in the manner described.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
EP96402378A 1995-11-16 1996-11-07 Schuhwerk und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung Withdrawn EP0774216A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9513608A FR2741242B1 (fr) 1995-11-16 1995-11-16 Article chaussant perfectionne et procede de fabrication d'un tel article
FR9513608 1995-11-16

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0774216A1 true EP0774216A1 (de) 1997-05-21

Family

ID=9484636

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP96402378A Withdrawn EP0774216A1 (de) 1995-11-16 1996-11-07 Schuhwerk und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0774216A1 (de)
FR (1) FR2741242B1 (de)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2914541A1 (fr) * 2007-04-05 2008-10-10 Philippe Et Isabelle Beguerie Espadrille a semelle en lin et procede de fabrication correspondant
WO2021011865A1 (en) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 Tbl Licensing Llc Separable and recyclable footwear

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR756688A (fr) * 1933-06-08 1933-12-13 Chaussures Dressoir Sa Des Procédé de fabrication de chaussures à semelle emboutie
FR992482A (fr) * 1949-05-28 1951-10-18 Perfectionnement au mode de réalisation des espadrilles
FR992840A (fr) * 1949-06-01 1951-10-23 Procédé de fabrication d'espadrilles avec semelle intérieure en jute ou autres matières et semelle extérieure en caoutchouc
FR1327141A (fr) * 1962-04-02 1963-05-17 Procédé de fabrication de chaussures
GB2158692A (en) * 1984-05-18 1985-11-20 Calzaturificio 3 Nogarine S P Shoe with a preformed sole and upper attached together by sewing

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR756688A (fr) * 1933-06-08 1933-12-13 Chaussures Dressoir Sa Des Procédé de fabrication de chaussures à semelle emboutie
FR992482A (fr) * 1949-05-28 1951-10-18 Perfectionnement au mode de réalisation des espadrilles
FR992840A (fr) * 1949-06-01 1951-10-23 Procédé de fabrication d'espadrilles avec semelle intérieure en jute ou autres matières et semelle extérieure en caoutchouc
FR1327141A (fr) * 1962-04-02 1963-05-17 Procédé de fabrication de chaussures
GB2158692A (en) * 1984-05-18 1985-11-20 Calzaturificio 3 Nogarine S P Shoe with a preformed sole and upper attached together by sewing

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2914541A1 (fr) * 2007-04-05 2008-10-10 Philippe Et Isabelle Beguerie Espadrille a semelle en lin et procede de fabrication correspondant
WO2021011865A1 (en) * 2019-07-17 2021-01-21 Tbl Licensing Llc Separable and recyclable footwear
CN114206152A (zh) * 2019-07-17 2022-03-18 Tbl许可有限公司 可分离且可回收的鞋类
US11412809B2 (en) 2019-07-17 2022-08-16 Tbl Licensing Llc Separable and recyclable footwear

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2741242B1 (fr) 1998-01-23
FR2741242A1 (fr) 1997-05-23

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