EP0374992A1 - Process for the preparation of an effect yarn - Google Patents

Process for the preparation of an effect yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0374992A1
EP0374992A1 EP89202997A EP89202997A EP0374992A1 EP 0374992 A1 EP0374992 A1 EP 0374992A1 EP 89202997 A EP89202997 A EP 89202997A EP 89202997 A EP89202997 A EP 89202997A EP 0374992 A1 EP0374992 A1 EP 0374992A1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
polyamide
polyester
poy
filament
fancy yarn
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Granted
Application number
EP89202997A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0374992B1 (en
Inventor
Wolfgang Morgenstern
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Viscosuisse SA
Original Assignee
Viscosuisse SA
Rhone Poulenc Viscosuisse SA
Societe de la Viscose Suisse SA
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Publication of EP0374992A1 publication Critical patent/EP0374992A1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/20—Combinations of two or more of the above-mentioned operations or devices; After-treatments for fixing crimp or curl

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a co-textured bicomponent fancy yarn for an elastic fabric made of a polyester POY and a polyamide POY, which are drawn in a stretching zone with the same draw ratio before texturing, and to a fancy yarn produced by the method.
  • Fancy yarns are known. Sheets made from it can contain elastic two-component threads both in the warp and in the weft or in both directions. Textile bicomponent threads made of nylon and polyester are described in EP-B-0 044 221 and are extensively appreciated there in the prior art. All known nylon / polyester bicomponent filaments have in common that the two polymers are spun through the same spinneret, either that both components stick together side by side or are present as a core-shell structure. The different shrinkage forces of both components are used to achieve the crimping effect.
  • GB-A-2 021 652 describes the stretching together of a polyester POY with a polyamide LOY, the LOY thread remaining severely understretched. Both threads are swirled around before a second heater to achieve a uniform mixing for the two-color effect.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a method for the simple and economical production of fancy yarn for producing elastic flat structures, as well as a fancy yarn produced by this method.
  • the object is achieved in that the polyester POY and the polyamide POY are cold-stretched simultaneously in a stretching zone and with the same stretching ratio of 1: 1.3 to 1: 1.6. It is essential that the stretching takes place cold in front of the texturing zone.
  • the main advantage of the method according to the invention is that stretching and texturing take place sequentially in a single operation. Optimal productivity is achieved by texturing both filaments together using a spindle to form a fancy yarn. The resulting uniform mixing of the filaments also results in better processability. This is made possible by the fact that the carrier thread has a particularly high strength.
  • the result is a polyamide filament with a strength of around 50 cN / tex.
  • the polyester component consists of partially broken filaments or knobs, since the optimal stretching tension cannot build up due to the under-stretching and is therefore subject to greater mechanical stress. It gives the overall thread the desired effect.
  • the two-tone in an elastic textile fabric has a very even distribution.
  • the fabrics have a soft and dry feel due to knobs and protruding fibrils.
  • the single figure shows a schematic of the stretch texturing method according to the invention.
  • a polyester POY is drawn off from a roll 1 and a polyamide POY from a roll 2 and passed together as only partially drawn filaments 3 and 3 'via a feed unit 4.
  • the combined filaments are drawn at the same drawing ratio by means of a drawing device 6 over a drawing pin 5.
  • the result is a stretched thread 7, which passes through a heater 8.
  • the thread 7 is textured by means of a driving spindle 9 and fed to a bobbin 11 as fancy yarn via a delivery mechanism 10.
  • the overstretched polyamide 66 thread is greatly improved in strength, namely by about 20% compared to the prior art and takes on the role of a carrier thread. Fibril breaks occur on the undrawn polyester thread, which slide into desired knobs during processing. The pimples and the protruding fibrils result in a soft and dry grip on the resulting fabric.
  • the jointly textured, undyed effect thread shows two-tone in the textile fabric after dyeing. It can be entangled, but can also be used as a weft in weaving.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

An effect yarn for producing an elastic sheet material comprises a cotextured underdrawn polyester filament and an overdrawn polyamide filament having a load-bearing strength of around 50 cN/tex. To prepare the effect yarn, a polyester POY yarn and a polyamide POY yarn are drawn simultaneously and to the same draw ratio in a drawing zone upstream of a texturing zone. The effect yarn is used for producing a two-coloured elastic sheet material. <IMAGE>

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft ein Verfahren zur Herstellung ei­nes co-texturierten bikomponenten Effektgarnes für ein elastisches Flächengebilde aus einem Polyester POY und einem Polyamid POY, welche in einer Streckzone bei glei­chem Verstreckungsverhältnis vor der Texturierung ver­streckt werden, sowie ein nach dem Verfahren hergestell­tes Effektgarn.The invention relates to a method for producing a co-textured bicomponent fancy yarn for an elastic fabric made of a polyester POY and a polyamide POY, which are drawn in a stretching zone with the same draw ratio before texturing, and to a fancy yarn produced by the method.

Effektgarne sind bekannt. Flächengebilde daraus können elastische Zweikomponentfäden sowohl in der Kette als auch im Schuss oder in beiden Richtungen enthalten. Tex­tile Bikomponentfäden aus Nylon und Polyester werden in der EP-B-0 044 221 beschrieben und sind dort im Stand der Technik ausführlich gewürdigt. Allen bekannten Nylon/Po­lyester Bikomponentfilamenten ist gemeinsam, dass die beiden Polymere durch eine gleiche Spinndüse gesponnen werden, entweder dass beide Komponenten Seite an Seite aneinander kleben oder als Kern-Mantel-Stuktur vorliegen. Zur Erzielung des Kräuseleffektes wird die unterschied­liche Schrumpfkraft beider Komponenten ausgenützt.Fancy yarns are known. Sheets made from it can contain elastic two-component threads both in the warp and in the weft or in both directions. Textile bicomponent threads made of nylon and polyester are described in EP-B-0 044 221 and are extensively appreciated there in the prior art. All known nylon / polyester bicomponent filaments have in common that the two polymers are spun through the same spinneret, either that both components stick together side by side or are present as a core-shell structure. The different shrinkage forces of both components are used to achieve the crimping effect.

In der GB-A-2 021 652 wird die gemeinsame Verstreckung eines Polyester POY mit einem Polyamid-LOY beschrieben, wobei der LOY-Faden stark unterverstreckt bleibt. Beide Fäden werden vor einer zweiten Heizung verwirbelt, um eine gleichmässige Vermischung für den Zweifarbeneffekt zu erzielen.GB-A-2 021 652 describes the stretching together of a polyester POY with a polyamide LOY, the LOY thread remaining severely understretched. Both threads are swirled around before a second heater to achieve a uniform mixing for the two-color effect.

Es ist aber auch bekannt, Polyamidfilamente und Poly­esterfilamente, welche durch Schmelzspinnen und an­schliessendes Verstrecken bei unterschiedlichen Streck­verhältnissen hergestellt werden, miteinander zu Textu­rieren. Auch hier resultiert ein Effektgarn. Das bekannte Verfahren hat jedoch den Nachteil, dass bei der Herstel­lung eines solchen Garns mehrere aufwendige Verfahrens­stufen durchlaufen werden, wodurch die Wirtschaftlichkeit der Herstellung in Frage gestellt ist.However, it is also known to texturize polyamide filaments and polyester filaments, which are produced by melt spinning and subsequent drawing at different drawing ratios. A fancy yarn also results here. However, the known method has the disadvantage that in the production of such a yarn, several complex process steps are carried out, so that the economics of production are questioned.

Aufgabe der Erfindung ist es, ein Verfahren zur einfachen und wirtschaftlichen Herstellung eines Effektgarnes zur Erzeugung von elastischen Flächengebilden zur Verfügung zu stellen, sowie ein nach diesem Verfahren hergestelltes Effektgarn.The object of the invention is to provide a method for the simple and economical production of fancy yarn for producing elastic flat structures, as well as a fancy yarn produced by this method.

Die Aufgabe wird erfindungsgemäss nach Anspruch 1 dadurch gelöst, dass das Polyester-POY und das Polyamid-POY in einer Streckzone simultan und bei gleichem Streckverhält­nis von 1 : 1,3 bis 1 : 1,6 kalt verstreckt werden. Dabei ist es wesentlich, dass die Verstreckung kalt vor der Texturierzone erfolgt.According to the invention, the object is achieved in that the polyester POY and the polyamide POY are cold-stretched simultaneously in a stretching zone and with the same stretching ratio of 1: 1.3 to 1: 1.6. It is essential that the stretching takes place cold in front of the texturing zone.

Der wesentliche Vorteil des erfindungsgemässen Verfahrens ist darin zu sehen, dass Verstreckung und Texturierung sequentiel in einem einzigen Arbeitsgang erfolgen. Es wird eine optimale Produktivität dadurch erzielt, dass beide Filamente gemeinsam durch eine Spindel zu einem Effektgarn texturiert werden. Durch die resultierende gleichmässige Mischung der Filamente wird auch eine bes­sere Verarbeitbarkeit erzielt. Dies wird dadurch ermög­licht, dass der Trägerfaden eine besonders hohe Festig­keit aufweist.The main advantage of the method according to the invention is that stretching and texturing take place sequentially in a single operation. Optimal productivity is achieved by texturing both filaments together using a spindle to form a fancy yarn. The resulting uniform mixing of the filaments also results in better processability. This is made possible by the fact that the carrier thread has a particularly high strength.

Es ist zweckmässig das gemeinsame Verstreckungsverhältnis zwischen 1 : 1,3 und 1 : 1,6 zu wählen. Ein bevorzugtes Verstreckungsverhältnis liegt um etwa 1 : 1,5.It is advisable to choose the common draw ratio between 1: 1.3 and 1: 1.6. A preferred draw ratio is about 1: 1.5.

Hierbei resultiert als Trägerfaden das Polyamidfilament mit einer Festigkeit von rund 50 cN/tex.The result is a polyamide filament with a strength of around 50 cN / tex.

Die Polyesterkomponente besteht aus teilweise gebrochenen Filamenten oder Noppen, da aufgrund der Unterverstreckung sich keine optimale Texturierspannung aufbauen kann und daher mechanisch stärker beansprucht wird. Sie verleiht dem Gesamtfaden den gewünschten Effekt.The polyester component consists of partially broken filaments or knobs, since the optimal stretching tension cannot build up due to the under-stretching and is therefore subject to greater mechanical stress. It gives the overall thread the desired effect.

Die Zweifarbigkeit in einem elastischen textilen Flächen­gebilde weist eine sehr gleichmässige Verteilung auf. Die Flächengebilde besitzen bedingt durch Noppen und abste­henden Fibrillen einen weichen und trockenen Griff.The two-tone in an elastic textile fabric has a very even distribution. The fabrics have a soft and dry feel due to knobs and protruding fibrils.

Die einzige Figur zeigt ein Schema des erfindungsgemässen Streck-Texturier-Verfahrens.The single figure shows a schematic of the stretch texturing method according to the invention.

Ein Polyester-POY wird von einem Wickel 1 und ein Poly­amid-POY von einem Wickel 2 abgezogen und gemeinsam als nur teilverstreckte Filamente 3 und 3′ über ein Liefer­werk 4 geführt. Die kombinierten Filamente werden gleich­zeitig bei gleichem Verstreckungsverhältnis mittels eines Streckwerkes 6 über einen Streckstift 5 verstreckt. Es resultiert ein verstreckter Faden 7, welcher eine Heizung 8 durchläuft. Der Faden 7 wird mittels einer Mitnehmer­spindel 9 texturiert und über ein Lieferwerk 10 einer Spule 11 als Effektgarn zugeführt.A polyester POY is drawn off from a roll 1 and a polyamide POY from a roll 2 and passed together as only partially drawn filaments 3 and 3 'via a feed unit 4. The combined filaments are drawn at the same drawing ratio by means of a drawing device 6 over a drawing pin 5. The result is a stretched thread 7, which passes through a heater 8. The thread 7 is textured by means of a driving spindle 9 and fed to a bobbin 11 as fancy yarn via a delivery mechanism 10.

AusführungsbeispielEmbodiment

Die beiden Fäden
Polyamid 66-POY gesponnen bei 4200 m/min, dtex 100 f 34 (nom 78 f 34) mit Dehnung 75 % und Festigkeit 36 cN/tex
und
Polyester-POY gesponnen bei 3100 m/min, dtex 130 f 36 (nom 78 f 36) mit Dehnung 165 % und Festigkeit 21 cN/tex
werden auf der Mitnehmertexturiermaschine Heberlein FZ 27 mit folgenden Bedingungen texturiert: Verstreckung (sequentex) 1:1,48 Spindeltouren 300000 T/min Zwirn 2100 T/m Einzwirn 2 % Temperatur 210°C The two threads
Polyamide 66-POY spun at 4200 m / min, dtex 100 f 34 (nom 78 f 34) with elongation 75% and strength 36 cN / tex
and
Polyester POY spun at 3100 m / min, dtex 130 f 36 (nom 78 f 36) with elongation 165% and strength 21 cN / tex
are textured on the Heberlein FZ 27 drive texturing machine with the following conditions: Stretching (sequentex) 1: 1.48 Spindle tours 300,000 T / min Thread 2100 T / m Twine 2% temperature 210 ° C

Die beiden simultan vorverstreckten POY-Fäden werden gemeinsam durch dieselbe Spindel (FBV/06, 2,0 mm ⌀) gefahren. Resultate des Gesamtfadens: Titer 168,4 dtex Festigkeit 31,0 cN/tex Dehnung 26,7 % Reisskraft 5,22 N Kräuselgrad 17,1 % Kräuselbeständigkeit 90,6 % The two simultaneously pre-stretched POY threads are passed together through the same spindle (FBV / 06, 2.0 mm ⌀). Results of the overall thread: Titer 168.4 dtex strength 31.0 cN / tex strain 26.7% Tear strength 5.22 N Degree of curl 17.1% Crimp resistance 90.6%

Mit der obigen Grundeinstellung wurden diverse Modifika­tionen gefahren, wobei folgende Parameter geändert wur­den: Temperatur °C 210 - 220 - 230 Zwirn T/m 2100 - 2200 - 2300 Verstreckung 1: 1,44 - 1,48 - 1,52 Serimetrie-Kräuselresultate: Versuchsnummer 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Varianten 210°C 220°C 230°C 2200T/m 2300T/m 1:1,44 1:1,52 Titer dtex 168,4 168,4 167,6 169,0 166,6 172,5 163,9 Festigkeit cN/tex 31,0 29,4 31,5 30,4 30,5 30,8 30,9 Dehnung % 26,7 25,6 25,2 25,4 24,7 28,3 21,5 Reisskraft N 5,22 4,95 5,28 5,15 5,09 5,32 5,07 Kräuselgrad % 17,1 16,8 22,5 21,4 27,0 20,6 13,4 Kräuselbeständigkeit % 90,6 90,5 91,1 90,7 92,3 90,8 91,9 Various modifications were made with the above basic setting, the following parameters being changed: temperature ° C 210 - 220 - 230 Thread T / m 2100 - 2200 - 2300 Stretching 1: 1.44 - 1.48 - 1.52 Serimetry crimp results: Trial number 1 2nd 3rd 4th 5 6 7 variants 210 ° C 220 ° C 230 ° C 2200T / m 2300T / m 1: 1.44 1: 1.52 Titre dtex 168.4 168.4 167.6 169.0 166.6 172.5 163.9 Strength cN / tex 31.0 29.4 31.5 30.4 30.5 30.8 30.9 Strain % 26.7 25.6 25.2 25.4 24.7 28.3 21.5 Tensile strength N 5.22 4.95 5.28 5.15 5.09 5.32 5.07 Degree of crimp% 17.1 16.8 22.5 21.4 27.0 20.6 13.4 Crimp resistance% 90.6 90.5 91.1 90.7 92.3 90.8 91.9

In der Streckzone kann auch ohne Streckstift gearbeitet werden, womit zwar der Noppeneffekt verbessert wird, aber dann ein schlechterer Texturierlauf in Kauf genommen wer­den muss.It is also possible to work in the drawing zone without a drawing pin, which improves the pimple effect, but then a poorer texturing run has to be accepted.

Mit der gewählten Verstreckung wird der überverstreckte Polyamid 66-Faden in der Festigkeit stark verbessert, und zwar um etwa 20 % gegenüber dem Stand der Technik und übernimmt die Rolle eines Trägerfadens. Am unterver­streckten Polyesterfaden treten Fibrillenbrüche auf, wel­che sich im Laufe der Verarbeitung zu erwünschten Noppen aufschieben. Die Noppigkeit und die abstehenden Fibrillen ergeben einen weichen und trockenen Griff des resultie­renden Flächengebildes.With the selected stretching, the overstretched polyamide 66 thread is greatly improved in strength, namely by about 20% compared to the prior art and takes on the role of a carrier thread. Fibril breaks occur on the undrawn polyester thread, which slide into desired knobs during processing. The pimples and the protruding fibrils result in a soft and dry grip on the resulting fabric.

Der gemeinsam texturierte, ungefärbte Effektfaden zeigt im textilen Flächengebilde nach dem Färben Zweifarbig­keit. Er kann verstrickt, aber auch als Schussfaden in der Weberei eingesetzt werden.The jointly textured, undyed effect thread shows two-tone in the textile fabric after dyeing. It can be entangled, but can also be used as a weft in weaving.

Claims (5)

1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines co-texturierten bikom­ponenten Effektgarnes für ein elastisches Flächenge­bilde aus einem Polyester POY und einem Polyamid POY, welche in einer Streckzone bei gleichem Verstreckungs­verhältnis vor der Texturierung verstreckt werden, da­durch gekennzeichnet, dass das Polyester POY und das Polyamid POY gemeinsam mit einem Verstreckungsver­hältnis von 1:1,3 bis 1:1,6 kalt verstreckt werden.1. A process for producing a co-textured bicomponent fancy yarn for an elastic fabric made of a polyester POY and a polyamide POY, which are drawn in a drawing zone with the same drawing ratio before texturing, characterized in that the polyester POY and the polyamide POY together with a drawing ratio of 1: 1.3 to 1: 1.6 cold drawing. 2. Bikomponentes co-texturiertes Effektgarn, hergestellt nach Anspruch 1, aus einem Polyesterfilament und einem Polyamidfilament, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Po­lyesterfilament unterverstreckt und das Polyamidfila­ment überverstreckt ist.2. bicomponent co-textured fancy yarn, produced according to claim 1, of a polyester filament and a polyamide filament, characterized in that the polyester filament is undrawn and the polyamide filament is over-drawn. 3. Effektgarn nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Polyesterfilament aus teilweise gebrochenen Fibrillen und Noppen beteht.3. fancy yarn according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyester filament consists of partially broken fibrils and knobs. 4. Effektgarn nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Polyamidfilament eine Festigkeit >50 cN/tex aufweist.4. fancy yarn according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyamide filament has a strength> 50 cN / tex. 5. Effektgarn nach Anspruch 2 gekennzeichnet durch eine Festigkeit >30 cN/tex.5. fancy yarn according to claim 2 characterized by a strength> 30 cN / tex.
EP19890202997 1988-12-05 1989-11-27 Process for the preparation of an effect yarn Expired - Lifetime EP0374992B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH449988 1988-12-05
CH4499/88 1988-12-05

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EP0374992A1 true EP0374992A1 (en) 1990-06-27
EP0374992B1 EP0374992B1 (en) 1994-04-13

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2156498A1 (en) * 1998-09-07 2001-06-16 Solteulat S L Textile fabric production consists of using two different types of yarns in any of three arrangements, for dyeing and finishing

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4164117A (en) * 1976-04-07 1979-08-14 Fiber Industries, Inc. Method for making simulated spun-like ingrain yarn
GB2021652A (en) * 1978-05-04 1979-12-05 Du Pont Canada Heather yarns
EP0037118A1 (en) * 1980-04-02 1981-10-07 Teijin Limited A process for manufacturing a bulky flat yarn
EP0044084A1 (en) * 1980-07-15 1982-01-20 Teijin Limited A polyester spun-like textured yarn and method for manufacturing the same
AU521173B2 (en) * 1978-02-27 1982-03-18 Phillips Petroleum Co. Multifilament yarn

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4164117A (en) * 1976-04-07 1979-08-14 Fiber Industries, Inc. Method for making simulated spun-like ingrain yarn
AU521173B2 (en) * 1978-02-27 1982-03-18 Phillips Petroleum Co. Multifilament yarn
GB2021652A (en) * 1978-05-04 1979-12-05 Du Pont Canada Heather yarns
EP0037118A1 (en) * 1980-04-02 1981-10-07 Teijin Limited A process for manufacturing a bulky flat yarn
EP0044084A1 (en) * 1980-07-15 1982-01-20 Teijin Limited A polyester spun-like textured yarn and method for manufacturing the same

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2156498A1 (en) * 1998-09-07 2001-06-16 Solteulat S L Textile fabric production consists of using two different types of yarns in any of three arrangements, for dyeing and finishing

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EP0374992B1 (en) 1994-04-13
DE58907463D1 (en) 1994-05-19
ES2052891T3 (en) 1994-07-16

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