EP0311487B1 - Gem mounting especially for a diamant, setting for such a gem and gem mounting, process and tool for making such a mounting - Google Patents

Abstract

The setting support (1) for a stone (21), of the general type produced from metal and comprising an axial bore (16) which is intended for receiving the stone (2) and the front end part (17) of which forms a seat for the collet (10), the necessary plurality of separate setting claws (19) intended to assume position on the crown (9), and at least one facet (20) performing the function of increasing the apparent dimension and brilliance of the stone (2), wherein a mirror facet (20) is arranged along a chord of the setting support (1), in such a way that this mirror facet (20) can extend in a direction at least substantially parallel to one or more adjacent facets (11, 12, 13) of the stone (2), especially of the crown (9), the effect of this arrangement being to ensure the function of the facet (20) of the setting support (1) effectively.

Description

The invention relates to a setting support for precious, fine, ornamental stone, more particularly diamond; a kitten comprising such a stone and such a crimping support; a method and a tool for shaping such a support.

There are already known crimping supports for precious stones, in particular diamonds, more particularly of small dimensions, made of metal and comprising an axial hole for receiving the stone coaxially, the front part of which constitutes a seat for the lower part or cylinder head. stone; and on its upper annular front transverse face a few small crimping claws intended to be placed on the crown of the stone, so as to ensure its rigid retention on the support (documents FR 1 505 450, FR 1 543 950, FR 1 821 18, FR 2 579 428, FR 2 004 228, FR 2 036 934, FR 2 080 224, FR 2 171 039, FR 2 450 078, FR 2 186 201, GB 2 079 140).

Often, it is sought that the crimping support is as little visible as possible, in particular as small as possible, so as not to be visible as possible, in particular as small as possible, so as not to affect the aesthetic appearance originating from the stone (documents FR 2,579,428, FR 2,420,314, FR 2,491,308).

We also tried to take advantage of the crimping support with the aim of highlighting the stone. In document FR 2 579 428, the crimping support is cut with the same shape as the diamond. In the document FR 2 186 201, it is claimed to give the impression of magnification of the stone (or of increase in its brilliance) and it is claimed to direct the light rays entering the stone on "mirror polished" metal facets of the lower part of the setting support located on the side of the cylinder head reflecting these rays towards the immediate outside of the stone (or towards the center respectively). This document provides for the entry of light by updating the crimp support and its functional use. However, this document, of which no effective application is known, seems to be only a view of the mind: the method of obtaining a mirror polish is not indicated; the size of the diamonds has evolved until a total reflection has been obtained (see "Les Pierres Précieuses", Tardy and Dina Level, page 210), which excludes the phenomenon announced in this document; the update is in practice often closed by the skin and it is illusory to predict the supply of light by it; it is not possible, nor usual, to examine a stone perpendicular to the table, the light rays being also perpendicular; any possible reflection of light on a wall of the crimping support, which crosses the stone would have the effect of dispersing therein the color of the crimping support, which would have the consequence of devaluing the stone by affecting its color.

We have also tried, sometimes, to give the crimping support a certain aesthetic appearance; either that the support has a suitable geometric shape and constitutes a "hubcap", or that the crimping is embellished by "raising the grain" by means of staples, by the crimper. However, this is not intended to increase the appearance of the dimension and luster of the stone.

Document FR 1 543 950 provides for a stoning of the crimping support in order to draw drawings with sharp angles facilitating the reflection of light rays on the stone and making it shine. These designs extend radially with respect to the axis of the stone. The same function is also provided by grooves, also radial, originating from the formation of crimping claws. However, these grooves are not very important, their effect is limited and does not increase the appearance of the dimension and the gloss of the stone.

The document GB 2 079 140, which serves as the basis for the preamble of claim 1, describes a setting support for stones - notably diamonds - of small dimensions (diameter of the order of 3 mm) which comprises, on its annular front transverse face, facets arranged in pairs, each hollow, also arranged radially around the stone. These pairs of facets would have, for the first function, to give the quantity of metal necessary for the constitution of the settings and, for the second function, to give the appearance of a larger or brighter stone than it actually is. Such a support is produced by punching so that the facets and the seams are produced simultaneously by a single operation ensuring the required movement of the material. However, the technique described in this document is subject to discussion, in addition to the fact that it does not appear and forces used industrially: the pressures and forces used during punching or stamping are necessarily significant and they undoubtedly have for the effect of breaking the stone, including the diamond (we know indeed that if the diamond is hard, it is also fragile and sensitive to cleavage and breakage; that consequently, the setting must be carried out with great care -see "Precious Stones:", Tardy and Dina Level, pages 195 and 196; "Guide to precious stones, semi-precious stones and ornamental stones", Walter Schumann, Ed Delachaux and Niestlé, page 70; "Precious stones and Fine Stones" , Jaroslev Bauer and Vladimir Bouska, Ed. Bordas, page 31); the angles of the facets made on the crimping support are not sharp enough to simulate a shine reminiscent of that of stone; the settings of the setting support cover the entire circumference of the crown over a substantial radial extent and thus cover a significant proportion of the crown, causing the stone to lose a significant proportion of its effective diameter (of the order of 20%) , this technique approaching that of the well-known closed seam; the mirror effect on the facets of the crimping support is impossible to obtain by punching or stamping, the metal of the support "sticking" to the punch; manufacturing at low cost and in large quantities is impossible, the punch having to be cleaned or changed regularly; the angles of inclination of the facets, as well as their width, do not appear to be decisive.

Precious stone setting devices are also known (document FR 2032536, FR 2545241, EP 0221248).

We know the guillochis essentially intended for massive pieces such as dishes or lighters but not for stone supports. In addition, the known guillochis have only a purely decorative and non-functional role. They are not associated with a precious stone, they do not have the qualities of polished mirror, sharp angles, angles of inclination, dimensions, etc. suitable for fulfilling such a function.

Document US 1,449,158 describes a kitten such that the stone and the support are so mixed that the stone and the support appear to be a single stone.

Document US 1,368,909 describes a stone support having a supposedly improved visual appearance.

GB 296,797 describes a stone holder having a closed and conical stone seat.

The invention aims to overcome the drawbacks or limits of the state of the art and, more particularly, to provide a crimping support which effectively fulfills the function of increasing the appearance of the dimension (or the gloss) of the stone without risking affecting the stone (in its integrity, its effective diameter, its color) and this by an economically and industrially satisfactory process and devices.

To this end, the invention first proposes a crimping support, according to claim 1, for particularly precious, fine, ornamental stone, in particular diamond, and more particularly stone of small dimensions, in particular of a diameter of the order of one or a few millimeters, of the general type made and metal and comprising, firstly an axial hole for receiving the stone coaxially and the extreme frontal part of which constitutes a seat for the breech of the stone, secondly on its annular front transverse face, the necessary plurality of distinct crimping claws intended to be placed on the crown of the stone ensuring its rigid retention on the support and, thirdly on its annular front transverse face at least one flat facet inclined by relation to the general transverse plane of this frontal transverse face and having for function of increasing the appearance of the dimension and the gloss of the stone, characterized in that a mirror facet of the support is arranged along a cord of the support so that this mirror facet of the support can extend in a direction D at least substantially parallel and to the alignment of one or more adjacent facets of the stone, in particular of the crown, this arrangement having the effect of effectively ensuring the extension function of the facet of the support.

According to other characteristics, as described in claims 2 to 15, the support comprises a plurality of mirror facets; this or these mirror facets are obtained by milling more specifically diamond and are arranged in one or generally a plurality of pairs of mirror facets having in cross section a general shape of V or pseudo V, straight or inverted, with or without edge core, angle between 120 ° and 150 °, more especially between 135 ° and 145 °.

The invention then proposes a kitten which, according to claims 16 and 17 and according to the meaning used here, is the combination of a support and a stone.

The invention also provides a method of shaping such a support, comprising the shaping of the crimping claws and the shaping of the facets, in two separate operations, in particular the facets after the claws.

The invention also provides a method of setting a stone as described in claims 18 and 19, comprising such a method of shaping the support.

The invention also provides, and according to claims 20 to 24, a tool for shaping the facets of such a support which comprises a plate arranged to be driven in rotation about its axis, at the periphery of which is rigidly fixed at least one shaping diamond radially projecting outwards and suitably cut, having the function of shaping at least one mirror facet of the support.

The invention is based on the implementation of the optical and physiological properties and capacities of the eye, in particular afterglow, that is to say the persistence of the images, combined with the punctum proximum and the punctum remotum.

The invention has the effect of increasing the appearance of the dimension (possibly of the gloss) of the stone, when the latter is examined according to the normal angles of incidence of normal examination of the stone, in particular of the order 30 ° (relative to the table plane), the latter being mounted in a crimping support with or without updating. For example, you can "enlarge" the diameter of the stone from 2 to 7 tenths of a millimeter, depending on the size of the stone.

In addition, this result can be obtained by means of a process and industrializable devices.

As follows from the description, this effect results from the transverse width of the crimping support between its free internal and external edges; angles of the mirror facets; and their off-center (or off-center) with respect to the support (or its axis).

• . La figure 1 est une vue de dessus, à grande échelle, d'une pierre telle qu'un diamant, avec taille en brillant, associée à un support de sertissage, selon l'invention.
• . Les figures 2A et 2B sont deux vues schématiques en coupe parallèlement à l'axe je l'ensemble pierre-support selon les lignes IIA-IIA et IIB-IIB respectivement de la figure 1.
• . La figure 3 est une vue partielle en coupe axiale, à plus grande échelle.
• . Les figures 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D sont quatre vues schématiques en coupe transversale de quatre formes d'exécution possibles mais non limitatives de facettes-miroir du support de sertissage dans le cas où elles forment des couples de facettes.
• . Les figures 5 et 6 sont deux vues de dessus purement schématiques, d'un support de sertissage, illustrant d'autres caractéristiques ou variantes de l'invention.
• . Les figures 7A, 7B, 7C, 7D sont quatre vues schématiques en coupe axiale illustrant les procédés selon l'invention.
• . La figure 8 est une vue à plus grande échelle, en élevation, d'un outil de façonnage selon l'invention.
• . La figure 9 est une vue du coté de l'outil de façonnage de la figure 8.

The other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description which follows with reference to the accompanying drawings which are only explanatory, purely schematic (and not liable to limit the scope of the invention) in which:

• . Figure 1 is a top view, on a large scale, of a stone such as a diamond, with brilliant cut, associated with a setting support, according to the invention.
• . Figures 2A and 2B are two schematic sectional views parallel to the axis i the stone-support assembly along lines IIA-IIA and IIB-IIB respectively of FIG. 1.
• . Figure 3 is a partial view in axial section, on a larger scale.
• . FIGS. 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D are four schematic cross-section views of four possible but non-limiting embodiments of mirror facets of the crimping support in the case where they form pairs of facets.
• . Figures 5 and 6 are two purely schematic top views of a crimping support, illustrating other features or variants of the invention.
• . FIGS. 7A, 7B, 7C, 7D are four schematic views in axial section illustrating the methods according to the invention.
• . Figure 8 is an enlarged view, in elevation, of a shaping tool according to the invention.
• . FIG. 9 is a side view of the shaping tool of FIG. 8.

The invention relates to a crimping support 1 for a particularly precious, fine, ornamental stone 2: a kitten 1, 2 comprising the stone 2 and the support 1: a method and a tool 3 for shaping the support 1 (FIG. 8 and 9) - more precisely of its facets - an apparatus 4 for shaping the support 1 - in particular facets -, comprising the shaping tool 3 (fig. 10); and a crimping installation comprising the apparatus 4.

The invention applies, more particularly but not exclusively to diamonds and, more particularly, to stones 2 of small dimensions, noted with a diameter of the order of one or a few millimeters.

For example, stone 2 - notably diamond - is cut in brilliant. It is to this case that the invention refers but that it can be applied to other sizes and / or other stones.

Stone 2 comprises an axis 5, a table 6 (upper transverse and perpendicular to axis 5), possibly a lower collar 7, a belt or round 8 (transverse, intermediate and in a plane perpendicular to axis 5), a crown 9 (between the table 6 and the belt 8), a pavilion or cylinder head 10 (between the collar 7 and the belt 8), the crown 9 and the cylinder head 10 being cut to have facets (such as the stars 11, the bezels 12, the halefis 13 for the crown 9, the facets 14 and the halefis 15 for the cylinder head 20). The terminology used here is that derived from the literature referenced in the introductory part. Other expressions can be used.

The support 1 is of the general type made of metal, comprising in the first place a bore 16 with an axis 5 for receiving the stone 2 coaxially and whose end end 17 constitutes a seat for the cylinder head 10; secondly on a front transverse face 18, annular, the necessary plurality of crimping claws 19 distinct from each other, intended to be placed on the crown 9, from the belt 8 ensuring the rigid retention of the stone 2 on the support 1; and, thirdly on its front transverse face 18 at least one facet 20 flat and inclined relative to the plane P of this front transverse face 18 and having the function of increasing the appearance of the dimension (and possibly the gloss) of stone 2.

The axial extent of the support 1 along the axis 5, its outside diameter, the shape of the hole 16 (such as, for example, the existence of an update), may be subject to variants. The same is true of the characteristics of the front transverse face 18: shape and dimensions of the external free edge 21; shape and dimensions of the inner free edge 22; spacing between edges 21 and 22 or "bark" (or transverse width of support 1 between its free edges) may be between one tenth of a millimeter and about four tenths of a millimeter, more especially equal to or close to three tenths of a millimeter; number of claws 19. For example, the edges 21 and 22 can be circular or pseudo circular; the face 18 have the general shape of a radially narrow ring, flat and perpendicular to the axis 5; the claws 19 be in a number equal to the number of stars 11 or bezels 12 (for example eight claws), but, in the case of a smaller stone, be less than the number of stars or bezels.

In the description, conventionally, the expression "kitten" 1,2 is used to mean the assembly formed by the support 1 and the stone 2 rigidly associated with one another.

According to a characteristic of the kitten 1, 2, the claws 19 are separated, separated from each other and of small dimensions and the edge 22 is adjoining or slightly apart towards the outside of the belt 8, so that all or almost all table 6 and crown 9 is visible.

The general transverse plane P of the face 18 is called a mean plane passing through the trace of the face 18 and perpendicular to the axis 5 (plane of the figure) and tangent to the face 18.

A facet mirror 20 of the support 1 is arranged along a cord of the support 1 so that this facet mirror 20 can extend in a direction D at least substantially parallel to one or more adjacent facets (11, 12, 13) of the stone 2 in particular of the crown 9, this arrangement having the effect of effectively ensuring the function of the facet 20.

A mirror facet 20 does not interfere with or affect any of the claws 19, being independent of these. A mirror facet 20 is spaced transversely by one or more claws 19. A claw 19 is respectively spaced from one or more mirror facets 20 transversely with respect thereto.

In FIG. 5, an isolated mirror facet 20 has been shown only schematically for better understanding.

The mirror facet 20 forms a cord, that is to say that it extends between two non-diametric points or zones 23 of the edge 21, that is to say that the facet 20 is not radial or diametrical or else that the facet 20 is offset or eccentric with respect to a diameter of the support 1. In the case of the mirror facet 20 of FIG. 5, this is divided into two sections, being interrupted by the edge 22. The invention also relates to the case of a facet-mirror 20 in a single section as soon as the spacing between this facet-mirror 20 and the axis 5 is greater than the radius of the edge 22.

We denote by D - direction of a facet-mirror 20- the line orthogonal to the axis 5 located in the facet-mirror 20 considered; by T-transverse plane of the facet-mirror 20- the plane passing through the axis 5 and perpendicular to the direction D or any plane parallel thereto. The intersection of the facet mirror 20 and the transverse plane T defines a cross section of the facet mirror (its profile). The axial spacing R of the facet-mirror 20 denotes the segment of radius, perpendicular to the axis 5 and to the straight line D, lying between this axis 5 and this straight line D. This axial spacing is not zero and even substantial, the mirror facet 20 being a chord of the front transverse face 18.

The claws 19 are only located in the mirror facet 20 and, more precisely, there is a certain transverse spacing E (parallel to the axial spacing R) between the claws 19 and the facet-mirror 20 (FIG. 5).

According to other characteristics, a facet-mirror 20 is inclined on the plane P by an angle comprised between approximately 15 ° and approximately 30 ° and, more especially comprised between approximately 17 ° and approximately 23 °. And such a facet-mirror 20 is turned towards the inside or towards the outside of the support 1, that is to say towards or opposite the axis 5. The different facets-mirrors are turned alternately towards and opposite axis 5.

Preferably and generally the support 1 comprises a plurality of mirror facets 20, an isolated mirror facet 20 being insufficient in itself to provide substantially the function of increasing the appearance of the dimension (or the gloss) of stone 2 from different angles of observation of stone 2 and different angles of incidence of light. Several are provided, in particular a large number of mirror facets 20 (for example, one or more tens or one or more hundreds).

A first plurality 23 of mirror facets 20 are provided, extending at least substantially parallel to each other, constituting a first subgroup 23 of mirror facets 20. Such a first plurality 23 is represented in FIG. 5, in isolation, by several grouped mirror facets 20. Three first pluralities 23 are also shown in FIG. 6.

Preferably, the mirror facets 20 of a first subgroup 23 are, in whole or only in part, at least substantially adjacent or close to each other. In particular, two adjacent mirror facets 20 adjoin each other (FIGS. 4A, 4B). Or two adjacent mirror facets 20 are separated from each other by a separation strip 24, more or less wide, in particular narrow transversely.

Preferably, the mirror facets 20 of a first subgroup 23 extend from one or the vicinity of a terminal cord 25 connecting two distinct reference claws 26 or the regions thereof and towards the edge 21. According to a first variant, the two reference claws 26 are adjacent (left part, FIG. 6). According to a second variant, the two reference claws 26 are separated from each other by at least one intermediate claw 27 (right part, Figure 6, Figure 1, Figure 5). This second variant can be the subject of several sub-variants, depending on the number of intermediate claws 27 (combined with the total number of claws 19). In the case of FIG. 1, there are two intermediate claws 27 and in the case of FIG. 5 a single claw, these examples not being limiting.

According to FIGS. 5 and 6, a terminal cord 25 is located in the immediate vicinity, and towards the outside, of two reference claws 26. This arrangement is such that the opening angle of the terminal cord can reach, for example 100 °, this value being only indicative, in the case of a brilliant cut with eight claws 19, the claws of each pair of reference claws 26 being separated by a single intermediate claw 27.

Preferably, the mirror facets 20 extend longitudinally and / or transversely (relative to their direction) to or near the edge 21 (left part of FIG. 5).

As a variant, the mirror facets 20 extend in front of and / or behind at least one intermediate claw 27, relative to the axis 5. In particular, they provide between them a reserved or preserved strip 24a in which is placed this intermediate claw 27. This strip 24a is a special case of a strip 24 separating two adjacent mirror facets 20 (left part of FIG. 5).

Preferably, in combination with the first plurality 23 of mirror facets 20, the support 1 also includes a second plurality 28 of mirror facets 20 arranged angularly with respect to each other, with respect to the axis 5, constituting a second subgroup 28 of mirror facets 20.

In general, the mirror facets 20 of a second sub-group 28 are, at least substantially, regularly arranged around the axis 5.

In particular, this relative arrangement is the same as that of the claws 19. There are then as many second subgroups 28 as there are claws 19.

The same facet-mirror 20 belongs to a first group 23 and to a second group 28, the distribution in first and second sub-groups being only intended to better understand the invention. In addition, the first and second subgroups 23, 28 can cross each other (FIG. 1) in zones 29, located, in this case, behind the claws 19. According to the provisions of the claws 19 and / or mirror facets 20, the crossing zones 29 are of small extent, zero or almost zero or on the contrary relate to all or almost all of the mirror facets 20 or of the area of the face 18 or of the region of this area where find these mirror facets 20. Or the areas 29 are of importance lying between these extremes. Areas 29 are either concentrated or distributed according to these provisions. As a particular case, the mirror facets 20 of the first and second groups 23, 28 intersect two by two, in particular in as many series of aligned faces as there are in the set stone 2. As another special case, the mirror facets 20 intersect over a substantial part of their extent.

For example, all or only part of the mirror facets 20 of a first determined subgroup 23 intersect all or only part of the mirror facets 20 only of the first two adjacent subgroups 23. The zones 29 occupy, for example, more than 20% of the total area where the mirror facets 20 are located.

In the embodiment of FIG. 1, the mirror facets 20 occupy a substantial part, in particular almost all or all of the face 18. The function of mirror facets 20 is then provided by all or almost all of the face area 18.

Certain mirror facets 20 extend between at least substantially the regions surrounding two distinct reference claws 26; and / or certain mirror facets 20 extend almost tangentially or are merged with the support edge 21 1. In the first case, the mirror facets 20 are close to the terminal cord 25. In the second case, they are of very short length (in direction D).

At least some mirror facets 20 are longitudinally extended, their length being significantly greater than their transverse width.

The mirror facets 20 have a "mirror-polished" surface finish and sharp angles. The surface finish results in particular from the shaping process used by diamond milling. The term “edge 30” of a mirror facet 20 means the edge separating this mirror facet 20 from the face 18, or from the adjacent mirror facet 20, of a first sub-group 23, or of another facet- mirror 20 of a second sub-group 28 in a zone 29.

A facet-mirror 20 is a protruding relief, or preferably recessed, relative to the face 18.

A first mirror facet 20a is associated with a second mirror facet 20b together defining a pair of facets 20a, 20b of similar general characteristics and angles of inclination on the face 18 of opposite directions, forming, with respect to the plane general transverse P thereof, a relief having, in cross section, a general shape of V or pseudo V, straight or inverted. These two mirror facets 20a, 20b came from manufacturing simultaneously. All the characteristics described for a mirror facet 20 apply to each of the mirror facets 20a, 20b.

Preferably the angles of inclination of the two mirror facets 20a, 20b of the same pair of mirror facets of the crimping support 1 are at least substantially equal in value, the V of the cross section being at least substantially symmetrical with respect to to a median plane of the pair of facets-mirror, in particular parallel or substantially parallel to the axis 5. It is this variant embodiment which is shown in FIGS. 4A to 4D. If necessary, the V of the pair of mirror-facets 20a, 20b can be asymmetrical.

As a variant, the two mirror facets 20a, 20b of the same pair of mirror facets are joined to one another, opposite the face 18, by a web edge 31 for example located in a plane at least substantially parallel to the general transverse plane P of this face 18. (FIG. 4D). In this variant, the edge edge 31 has a limited transverse width to ensure the substantial presence of the mirror facets 20a, 20b.

As this results from the tilt angle values already given, the two mirror facets 20a, 20b of the same pair of mirror facets of the crimping support 1 form an angle α of between 120 ° and 150 ° and, more especially between 135 ° and 145 °. The effect of such a structure is a reflection of light rays from all angles from which we look at stone 2.

This angle is respectively equal to 120 °, 150 °, 135 °, 145 ° (with edge core 31) in FIGS. 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D.

Preferably and taking into account the shaping process envisaged (diamond milling) a pair of facets 20a, 20b forms a hollow groove in the face 18.

Preferably, a cross section of a pair of mirror facets 20a, 20b is at least substantially constant in shape and / or dimensions over the entire length of this pair of mirror facets 20a, 20b. However, the shaping process envisaged allows a variable section.

In one possible embodiment, the transverse width of the core edge 31 is of a value favoring the reflection of the light rays in particular of the order of maximum one third of the transverse width of a facet-mirror 20. The edge core 31 has, like the mirror facets 20, a "mirror-polished" surface state and sharp angles 30; and / or is obtained by milling, in particular diamond.

Two pairs of mirror facets 20a, 20b of a first group 23 adjacent to each other are adjacent to each other or separated from each other by a connecting strip 24b. The first case is illustrated by FIGS. 4A, 4B and 4D, and the second by FIG. 4C. The connecting strip 24b is a special case of the strip 24 already described.

Preferably, the different mirror facets 20 and / or pairs of mirror facets 20a, 20b have their own characteristics, such as in particular inclination, transverse width, identical or similar or with ratios of magnitude between them as already defined.

A mirror facet 20 extends in a direction D at least substantially parallel to one or more facets (11, 12, 13) adjacent or adjacent to the stone 2, in particular to its crown 9.

This arrangement is visible in Figure 1. It has the effect that visually the mirror facets 20 seem to "extend" the facets 11, 12, 13 of the crown 9 which increases the efficiency of the desired function.

In the case where there is a plurality of mirror facets 20, all or substantially all the mirror facets 20 extend in a plurality of directions D at least substantially parallel to several facets 11, 12, 13 distinct from the crown 9. In particular, the second plurality 28 of mirror facets 20 extends in directions D at least substantially parallel to all or a substantial part of the facets 11, 12, 13 of the crown 9.

A method of shaping a support 1 comprises the shaping of the support 1 and the shaping of the facets 20. The shaping of the claws 19 and the shaping of the facets 20 are carried out in two distinct operations.

In particular, the support 1 is first shaped in particular the claws 19 and then the mirror facets 20. The facets 20 are shaped by milling, in particular by means of a diamond tool 3, which makes it possible to obtain the required precision (shape, size, position), a mirror polish, sharp angles.

A method of crimping a stone 2 by means of a support 1 comprises a method of shaping the support 1 as described and a method of crimping the stone 2 into the support 1. More specifically, the shaping process is carried out of the support 1 and the actual crimping process for the stone 2 in two separate operations, first the shaping of the support 1 and then the actual crimping of the stone 2.

Starting from a support 32 having its claws 19 but devoid of the mirror facets 20 (FIG. 7A), the mirror facets 20 are shaped, using the tool 3 (FIG. 7B) and after having subsequently placed the stone. 2 (FIG. 7C), the claws 19 are folded down (FIG. 7D) - the arrows f schematically illustrating this crimping.

A shaping tool 3 for implementing the shaping process comprises (FIGS. 8 and 9) a plate 33 arranged to be driven in rotation about its axis 34, at the periphery 35 of which is rigidly fixed at least one shaping diamond 36 or equivalent radially projecting outwards and suitably cut, having the function of shaping at least one facet-mirror 20.

The same shaping diamond 36 has the function, because of its size, of simultaneously shaping two mirror facets such as 20a, 20b.

A shaping diamond 36 or equivalent is preferably rigidly fixed to the plate 33 in particular by gluing and pinching. An adhesive such as an Epoxy type adhesive can be used.

Preferably, the tool 3 comprises several shaping diamonds 36 located at the right of several points 37 distinct from the axis 34 of the plate 33. The concept of "points 37" is approximate and these are, as well, zones, these being, in practice, of reduced areas.

The shaping tool 3 can comprise, (FIG. 9), according to the need imposed by the configuration of the mirror facets 20 on the crimping support 1, at least one pair of shaping diamonds 36a, 36b located at the right of two points adjacent 37a, 37b, distinct from the axis 34 of the plate 33, spaced from one another, so as to produce a pair of mirror facets 20 or pairs of mirror facets 20a, 20b separated from one another other in particular by a reserved strip 24; or at least two shaping diamonds 36b, 36c located in line with two adjacent points 37b, 37c distinct from the axis 34 of the plate 33 adjoining each other so as to produce two mirror facets 20 or pairs of mirror facets 20a, 20b adjoining each other.

The shaping diamonds 36 are optionally distributed at least substantially regularly at the periphery 35. In particular, two shaping diamonds 36 located at the right of two adjacent points 37 distinct from the axis 34 of the plate 33 are spaced apart from the another in a polar manner at the periphery 35 of the plate 33. As a particular case of this polar spacing, the two shaping diamonds 36 considered are diametrically opposite.

As a variant, (not shown) the tool 3 comprises several shaping diamonds 36 which may be identical or not located at the same point 37 of the axis 34 of the plate 33.

In a first subgroup of a plurality of mirror facets 20, the tool 3 comprises a same plurality of shaping diamonds 36 (or more exactly of axial positions such as 37). As a variant, the tool 3 only has - in the case of shaping diamonds 36 - only part of said plurality of mirror facets 20 (including a single shaping diamond 36 or a single position 37) and it is provided means for axial displacement of the tool 3 thus formed along its axis 34 to ensure the shaping of all the mirror facets 20.

The invention allows the light rays arriving on the support 1 to be reflected with the effect of giving the impression of a stone 2 of larger size (or greater shine). For this purpose, the inclinations given for the mirror facets 20 are of the same dimension and, finally, their multiplicity without forgetting their arrangement, location, surface condition, are essential to ensure the desired effect (for example avoiding unwanted shadows) .

Claims (24)

1. A setting support (1) for a stone (2), especially a fine, ornamental, precious stone, especially a diamond, more particularly a stone of small dimensions, especially of a diameter of the order of a millimetre or a few millimetres, the stone having an axis, an upper transverse table, a girdle, a crown and a pavilion, the crown and the pavilion being cut to comprise facets, the support being of the general type made of metal and comprising an axial bore (16) of axis (5) for receiving the stone (2) coaxially and the front outermost part (17) of which forms a seat for the pavilion (10) of the stone (2), on its annular front transverse face (18), at least one plane mirror facet (20) inclined relative to the transverse general plane P of this face (18) and performing the function of increasing the apparent size and brilliance of the stone (2), characterised in that on the said annular front transverse face (18) perpendicular to the axis (5) it comprises setting claws (19), separate from each other, intended to be placed over the crown (9) of the stone (2) ensuring that it is rigidly held, and in that each mirror facet (20) is arranged along a chord of the support (1), in such a way that this mirror facet (20) can extend in a direction D at least substantially parallel to an adjacent facet (11, 12, 13) of the stone (2), especially of its crown (9), without interfering with or affecting any one of the claws (19).
2. A setting support according to Claim 1, characterised in that a mirror facet (20) is separated transversely from one or more claws (19) and repectively a claw (19) is separated from one or more mirror facets (20) transversely relative to these.
3. A setting support as claimed in either of Claims 1 and 2, characterised in that it comprises a plurality of mirror facets (20) facing towards the inside and away from the outside of the support (1).
4. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the facets (20) of subgroups (23) of mirror facets (20) extend from or from the vicinity of a boundary chord (25) connecting two separate reference claws (26) or the regions of these and towards the outer edge (21) of the support (1).
5. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the mirror facets (20) of a first subgroup (23) of mirror facets (20) extend in front of and/or behind at least one intermediate claw (27) in relation to the axis (5), each facet being off centre relative to a diameter of the support (1).
6. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the mirror facets (20) of a first subgroup (23) of mirror facets (20) extend in front of and behind at least one intermediate claw (27) and form between them a reserved strip (24a) in which this intermediate claw (27) is located.
7. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterised in that it comprises a second plurality (28) of mirror facets (20) arranged angularly relative to one another in relation to the axis (5) and forming a second subgroup (28) of mirror facets (20), and in that there are as many second subgroups (28) as setting claws (19).
8. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterised in that mirror facets (20) of the first and second subgroups (23, 28) intersect.
9. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterised in that the mirror facets (20) of the first and second subgroups (23, 28) intersect two by two, especially in as many series of aligned faces as the stone (2) comprises.
10. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterised in that some mirror facets (20) extend between at least substantially the regions neighbouring two separate reference claws (26), and/or some mirror facets (20) extend virtually tangentially or are coincident with the outer edge (21).
11. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterised in that the support (1) has a transverse width between its inner and outer edges (21, 22) of between approximately 1/10 mm and approximately 4/10 mm, more especially equal to or in the vicinity of approximately 3/10 mm.
12. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterised in that the mirror facets (20) have a "mirror-finish" surface quality and sharp angles (30).
13. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterised in that associated with a first mirror facet (20a) is a second mirror facet (20b), together defining a pair of facets (20a, 20b) of similar general characteristics and of oppositely directed angles of inclination relative to the face (18), forming relative to the plane P a relief which, in cross-section, has a general form of a V or pseudo V, upright or overturned, and in that the two mirror facts (20a, 20b) of one and the same pair of mirror facets form with one another an angle of between 120° and 150°, and more especially between 135° and 145°, the effect of this structure being to reflect the light rays at all the angles at which the stone is viewed.
14. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterised in that it possesses a core side (31) of a transverse width promoting the reflection of the light rays, especially of a width of the order of at most one third of the transverse width of a mirror facet (20).
15. A setting support according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterised in that the various mirror facets (20) and/or pairs of mirror facets (20a, 20b) have inherent characteristics, such as particularly inclination and transverse width, which are identical or similar or with size relationships to each other according to any one of the preceding claims.
16. A bezel comprising a stone (2) fastened rigidly to a setting support (1) according to any one of Claims 1 to 15.
17. A bezel according to Claim 16, characterised in that the second plurality (28) of mirror facets (20) extends in directions D at least substantially parallel to all or a substantial proportion of the facets (11, 12, 13) of the crown (9) of the stone (2).
18. A process for setting a stone (2) in a setting support (1) according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, comprising especially a process of shaping the support (1) and a process of actual setting of the stone (2) in the support (1), in which the shaping of the setting claws (19) and the shaping of the facets (20) of the setting support (1) are carried out as two separate operations, namely the shaping of the facets (20) after the shaping of the claws (19), in which the shaping of the facets (20) is carried out by milling; and in which the process of shaping the support (1) and the process of actual setting of the stone (2) are carried out as two separate operations, firstly the shaping of the support (1) and then the actual setting of the stone (2).
19. A setting process according to Claim 18, characterised in that the shaping of the facets (20) is carried out by milling by means of a diamond tool (3).
20. A tool for shaping a setting support (1) for a stone (2) according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, setting the stone by the setting process according to either of Claims 18 and 19, characterised in that it comprises a stage (33) which is designed to be driven in rotation about its axis (34) and to the periphery (35) of which is fastened rigidly at least one shaping diamond (36) projecting radially outwards and suitably cut and performing the function of shaping at least one mirror facet (20) of the support (1).
21. A shaping tool according to Claim 20, characterised in that, among other things, a shaping diamond (36) is fastened rigidly to the stage (33) especially by adhesive bonding and gripping.
22. A shaping tool according to either of Claims 20 and 21, characterised in that it comprises several shaping diamonds (36) arranged in line with several separate points (37) on the axis (34) of the stage (33).
23. A shaping tool according to any one of Claims 20 to 22, characterised in that it comprises at least one pair of shaping diamonds (36a, 36b) arranged in line with two separate adjacent points (37a, 37b) on the axis (34) of the stage (33) and separated from one another, so as to produce a pair of mirror facets (20) or pairs of mirror facets (20a, 20b) separated from one another especially by means of a preserved strip (24).
24. A shaping tool according to any one of Claims 20 to 23, characterised in that the shaping diamonds (36) are distributed at least substantially uniformly on the periphery (35) of the stage (33), and two shaping diamonds (36) arranged in line with two separate adjacent points (37) on the axis (34) of the stage (33) are separated from one another in a polar manner on the periphery (35) of the stage (33).

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