EP0197851B1 - Aus zwei Komponenten bestehender Nähfaden, hergestellt mittels einer Offen-End-Spinnvorrichtung - Google Patents

Aus zwei Komponenten bestehender Nähfaden, hergestellt mittels einer Offen-End-Spinnvorrichtung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0197851B1
EP0197851B1 EP19860400677 EP86400677A EP0197851B1 EP 0197851 B1 EP0197851 B1 EP 0197851B1 EP 19860400677 EP19860400677 EP 19860400677 EP 86400677 A EP86400677 A EP 86400677A EP 0197851 B1 EP0197851 B1 EP 0197851B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
twist
thread
fibers
filament
open
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP19860400677
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0197851A1 (de
Inventor
Gérard Lava
Walter De Preester
Benoît WIBAUX
Emile Delaender
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Les Filatures Du Sartel - Felix Watine & Fils A Responsabilite Dite Ltee Ste
Original Assignee
Les Filatures Du Sartel - Felix Watine & Fils A Responsabilite Dite Ltee Ste
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Les Filatures Du Sartel - Felix Watine & Fils A Responsabilite Dite Ltee Ste filed Critical Les Filatures Du Sartel - Felix Watine & Fils A Responsabilite Dite Ltee Ste
Publication of EP0197851A1 publication Critical patent/EP0197851A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0197851B1 publication Critical patent/EP0197851B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01HSPINNING OR TWISTING
    • D01H4/00Open-end spinning machines or arrangements for imparting twist to independently moving fibres separated from slivers; Piecing arrangements therefor; Covering endless core threads with fibres by open-end spinning techniques
    • D01H4/04Open-end spinning machines or arrangements for imparting twist to independently moving fibres separated from slivers; Piecing arrangements therefor; Covering endless core threads with fibres by open-end spinning techniques imparting twist by contact of fibres with a running surface
    • D01H4/08Rotor spinning, i.e. the running surface being provided by a rotor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/44Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
    • D02G3/46Sewing-cottons or the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile yarn of the type comprising two twisted components spun in a single pass by the technique known as free fibers, or open-end whose characteristics make it suitable for use as a high performance sewing thread.
  • the spinning with free fibers using a turbine or rotor rotating at high speed is now perfectly known and controlled.
  • the fibers, in the form of an incoming wick, are individualized by the action of a breaker and projected inside the rotor; the produced wire acquires its twist thanks to the rotation of the rotor.
  • the progress made by this new technique compared to ring spinning knew limits, in particular as regards the use of the yarns obtained, taking into account the fact that they were necessarily one-end yarns.
  • Recently a manufacturer has modified its released fiber material in order to obtain in a single operation a wire comprising two twisted components.
  • the main modification consists in passing a second component through the rotating rotor, while the rotor is itself supplied by fibers coming from an incoming wick: the wire forming in the rotor and the second component are wound. around each other at each rotor turn.
  • the output speed of the product wire is slightly different from the supply speed of the second component: the latter is 4% (four percent) higher than the former.
  • the invention relates firstly to a high-performance sewing thread obtained on spinning material with released fibers, of the type comprising two components, one based on fibers, the second based on high-tenacity multi-strand filament, the proportion of filament relative to the whole of the yarn being between thirty and fifty five percent and characterized in that the fibrous component has a twist at least ten percent greater than the twist usually given to yarns with released fibers.
  • the invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a high performance sewing thread from a spinning material with free fibers, the thread being of the two-component type, one based on fibers, the second on high tenacity multi-strand filament base, and in which the filament feeding speed is equal to or more than three percent greater than the speed of drawing of the twisted yarn itself and the process is characterized in that the rotational speed of the rotor is adjusted so as to produce a twist in the fibrous component at least 10% greater than the twist usually given to threads with released fibers.
  • torsion it is usual to apply in spinning with free fibers a coefficient of torsion a of 115, for a fineness of polyester fibers of 1.3 dtex. In the yarn of the invention, this coefficient for the same fineness of fibers will be of the order of or greater than 130 for the yarn of fibers constituting the first component.
  • the thread is suitable for use as a sewing thread. Its dynamometric resistance, its elongation at break, its elongation / recovery, its dimensional stability are compatible with the requirements sought. What is more, and quite remarkably, the two components of the wire behave vis-a-vis the break as a unitary element; their individual resistance is added and a single rupture is observed and not in two stages, first that of the less resistant fibrous component then that of the filamentary component after elongation thereof.
  • the twist of the fibrous component is a Z twist and the twist of the two components together is also a Z twist.
  • traditional sewing thread material composed of two twisted components, it is accepted that the twist of the twist must necessarily be the reverse of the twist of the unitary components. It is therefore all the more surprising that the thread according to the invention has, despite this feature, all the characteristics of a high sewing thread. performance.
  • the compound yarn 1 according to the invention is composed on the one hand of fibers and of a high-tenacity multi-strand filament 3.
  • the photo (figurel) is an enlargement x 35 of a part of a yarn of this type ; we see very clearly the two components which are twisted one on the other.
  • the unitary strands of the filament 3 are almost parallel to each other, the filament possibly, however, originally having a twist.
  • the fibers 2, for their part, have a twist which gives them their cohesion and which comes from the mode of production by the rotation of the rotor.
  • the high tenacity multi-strand filament 3 is based on polyester, its tenacity is 68 mN / dtex; in the example described it is a filament of 220 dtex.
  • the fibers 2 are also polyester fibers, with a fineness of 1.3 dtex.
  • Fiber yarn 2 has a twist of 700 turns per meter, which corresponds to a twist coefficient a of 140.
  • the yarn 1 is obtained on the spinning installation with released fibers which comprises on the one hand the fiber treatment part 2 and on the other hand the assembly part of the filament 3 with the fibrous component 4 produced by the rotor 5
  • the incoming wick 6, making 3100 tex is fed by the delivery roller 7 and the pressing member 8, the fibers 2 are taken from the wick 6 by the breaker 9 and projected into the groove. 10 of rotor 5, which rotates at a speed of 40,000 revolutions per minute.
  • the high-tenacity filament 3 is fed by two delivery cylinders 11 rotating at a speed V ′ then, introduced into the rotor 5 through a channel 12 which opens into the axis of the rotor in the immediate vicinity of the yarn extraction nozzle.
  • the output delivery rollers 13 of the wire 1 extract, at a speed V, a wire 1 composed of the two components, fibrous 2 and filamentary 3, twisted together under the action of the displacement of the fibrous component 4 inside the rotor 5 around the filamentary component 3.
  • the filament supply speed is 2% (two percent) higher than the exit speed of the plied yarn 1.
  • the yarn 1 obtained at a titer of 62.2 tex which is distributed at the rate of 39.8 tex in fibers 2 and 22 tex in filament; which corresponds to a proportion of 64% of fibers and 36% of filament.
  • Thread 1 after having undergone a finishing treatment (sizing) for the use of the sewing thread, has been successfully tested on very diverse sewing machines representing all of the operations encountered in tailoring. Its machinability is therefore entirely satisfactory, as is the behavior in use of the article sewn with such a thread, both in the dry wash and in the wet.
  • the invention is not limited to the example described above. We can in particular vary the material entering the components, fibrous and filamentary, as well as their fineness, while respecting the proportions of each component and the twist of the fibrous component, characteristics of the invention. Furthermore, even if the thread of the invention is specially adapted for sewing thread use thanks to its particular characteristics, its use is not limited to this precise field.
  • the invention also relates to a process for manufacturing the thread described above and suitable for use as a sewing thread, said thread being produced from a spinning material with released fibers, and being of the two-component type, the one based on fibers (2), the second based on high-tenacity multi-strand filament (3), and the method is characterized in that the speed of feeding of the filament (3) is equal to or at most greater than three percent at the rate of take-up of the plied yarn (1) itself, and in that the rotational speed of the rotor is adjusted so as to produce a twist in the fibrous component at least 10% greater than the twist usually given to loose fibers.
  • the speed of rotation of the rotor is adjusted so that the coefficient of torsion a of the fibrous component is greater than 130.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (6)

1. Nähfaden (1) mit hoher Leistung, der mit Offenend-Spinnmaterial des Zwei-Komponenten-Typs erhalten wurde, wobei die Basis der einen Komponente Fasern (2) sind und die Basis der zweiten Komponente eine hochfeste Multifil-Endlosfaser (3) ist und der Anteil der Endlosfaser bezogen auf den gesamten Nähfaden zwischen dreißig und fünfundfünfzig Prozent liegt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Faserkomponente (2) eine Drehung aufweist, die um mindestens zehn prozent größer ist als die Drehung, die Fäden mit offenend-gesponnenen Fasern gewöhnlich erteilt wird.
2. Nähfaden nach Anspruch 1,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Drehungskoeffizient a der Faserkomponente (2) größer als 130 ist.
3. Nähfaden nach einem der Ansprüche 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Fasern (2) und die Endlosfaser (3) aus Polyester bestehen.
4. Nähfaden nach einem der Ansprüche 7 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Faserkomponente (2) eine Drehung Z aufweist und daß die zwei Komponenten gemeinsam mit einer Drehung Z gezwirnt sind.
5. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Nähfadens mit hoher Leistung aus einem Offenend-Spinnmaterial, wobei der Nähfaden zum ZweiKomponenten-Typ gehört, von denen die eine Komponente als Basis Fasern (2), und die zweite Komponente als Basis eine hochfeste Multifil-Endlosfaser (3) hat und wobei die Zuführungsgeschwindigkeit der Endlosfaser (3) gleich oder um höchstens drei Prozent größer als die Abzugsgeschwindigkeit des gezwirnten Fadens (7) selbst ist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Umdrehungsgeschwindigkeit des Rotors so geregelt wird, daß eine Drehung der Faserkomponente erzeugt wird, die um mindestens 70 % größer ist als die den Fäden mit offenend-gesponnenen Fasern üblicherweise erteilte Drehung.
6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 5,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Umdrehungsgeschwindigkeit des Rotors so eingestellt wird, daß der Drehungskoeffizient der Faserkomponente größer als 130 ist.
EP19860400677 1985-03-29 1986-03-27 Aus zwei Komponenten bestehender Nähfaden, hergestellt mittels einer Offen-End-Spinnvorrichtung Expired EP0197851B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8504829 1985-03-29
FR8504829A FR2579632B1 (fr) 1985-03-29 1985-03-29 Fil a coudre a deux composants obtenu sur materiel de filature a fibres liberees

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0197851A1 EP0197851A1 (de) 1986-10-15
EP0197851B1 true EP0197851B1 (de) 1989-05-31

Family

ID=9317765

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19860400677 Expired EP0197851B1 (de) 1985-03-29 1986-03-27 Aus zwei Komponenten bestehender Nähfaden, hergestellt mittels einer Offen-End-Spinnvorrichtung

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0197851B1 (de)
DE (1) DE3663695D1 (de)
FR (1) FR2579632B1 (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4729214A (en) * 1987-01-20 1988-03-08 E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Combined carpet yarns by open end rotor spinning
DE112008001830A5 (de) 2007-07-26 2010-04-15 Doctor Optics Gmbh Verfahren zum Herstellen einer Scheinwerferlinse für einen Kraftfahrzeugscheinwerfer

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1220390A (en) * 1967-06-05 1971-01-27 Daiwa Spinning Co Ltd Method and apparatus for spinning of fibrous materials utilizing a rotary spinning chamber
US4083173A (en) * 1973-12-22 1978-04-11 Schubert & Salzer Maschinenfabrik Aktiengesellschaft Method and apparatus for the manufacture of core yarn in an open-end spinning device
DE2625620A1 (de) * 1976-06-08 1977-12-15 Ofa Ag Horn Verfahren zum offen-end-spinnen mit einer spinnturbine
IT1164545B (it) * 1978-12-28 1987-04-15 Vyzk Ustav Bavlnarsky Filato a piu' componenti,procedimento per la sua produzione e dispositivo per effettuare tale procedimento

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2579632B1 (fr) 1987-05-29
EP0197851A1 (de) 1986-10-15
DE3663695D1 (en) 1989-07-06
FR2579632A1 (fr) 1986-10-03

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