EP0101355A2 - Hair treatment method, especially for the hair tips - Google Patents

Abstract

A process of and apparatus for conditioning the hair, especially the tips thereof. After the hair has been dampened, for example by shampooing, and optionally dried, either partially or completely, it is subjected to a conditioning step in which it is maintained in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of from about 40 to 80% and at a temperature of from about 35 DEG to 75 DEG C. A special hood may be provided for use in the conditioning operation.

Description

The present invention relates to a new method for carrying out a treatment of the hair making it possible to obtain an improved state of the latter and in particular of their tips, as well as to devices for carrying out the said method.

The process according to the invention finds its application when drying hair which has been subjected to wetting with water or a shampoo. Furthermore, it is intended for hair which, once wet or moistened, is left free for drying, that is to say is not wound on curlers or styling rollers. For convenience of language, we will speak, in the following of this description, free hairstyles.

The current technique, which is generally used for drying loose hairstyles, consists in exposing the hair to the heat produced by one or more lamps with infrared radiation. This drying takes place without ventilation or with very little ventilation.

This drying method is the cause of drying of the hair and the succession of drying of this type quickly leads to a degradation of the appearance of the hairstyle. This drawback is particularly unpleasant in the case of curly hairstyles which are obtained by a treatment of the permanent type and which, most of the time, are dried using this technique.

This drying out of the hair is explained by the high temperature to which it must be subjected in order to obtain sufficiently rapid drying, in conditions of poor ventilation which do not displace the hair. This heat is applied in excess to the hair placed on the surface of the hair, which then undergoes excessive drying capable of causing bursts of the keratin fibers in fragile places, in particular at the level of the tips of the hair, these becoming forked and whitish. It follows that the hair is not silky to the touch, that it is less shiny and that its overall shape is altered because it has less volume.

The present invention overcomes this drawback because it relates to a particular drying technique making it possible to avoid or compensate for excessive dehydration of the hair as it occurs with the usual drying techniques.

It has been found that the wet treatment to which a hair is subjected during wetting with water or a shampoo, causes an increase in the weight of the hair, the relative variation in weight being of the order of 35%. The drying of the hair in a circulation of hot air causes a loss of water, which is greater than the weight gain of the hair during the wet treatment, and, at the end of drying, the relative variation of the weight of the hair relative to the weight before wet treatment is generally close to -9%: this weight loss is, of course, essentially a function of the drying and, in particular, of its duration and of the temperature of the forced air used. When the drying is finished, it is noted that the hair gradually regains moisture in the ambient air and this behavior of the hair has been shown in FIG. 1 of the attached drawing; generally the return of the hair to the weight they had initially before the wet treatment takes place in several hours.

In French patent application No. 2 483 200, the phenomena which occur during the drying of hair coiled on curlers have been studied. This study began to highlight that a phenomenon occurs in the hair after the end of the water uptake.

As explained in the aforementioned patent application, this phenomenon could consist of a rearrangement of the constituent molecules of the hair and, without this ex plication is in no way limiting, it has been hypothesized that the wet treatment of the hair allows the penetration of water into the hair and increases the dielectric constant of the medium existing between the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair, so that the bonds hydrogen no longer exists for wet hair. When the drying is carried out, the water molecules are extracted from the hair in an amount such that there is a loss in weight relative to the initial weight; the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair which had been discarded due to the presence of the water molecules, remain relatively spaced apart and do not allow instantaneously at room temperature, the reformation of the hydrogen bonds, this reformation only taking place gradually with relatively low speed. The water molecules, which return to the hair at room temperature to ensure water uptake after the end of drying, are in the form of agglomerates the larger the lower the temperature and the rearrangement of these molecules d water in the hair is carried out slowly.

It can therefore be seen that the rearrangement of the distribution of water in the hair, on the one hand, and the reformation of the hydrogen bonds in the hair, on the other hand, are phenomena which, at ambient temperature, occur so slow and which, presumably, constitute what was previously called the rearrangement of the hair.

This rearrangement, which is a slow phenomenon, occurs with even more difficulty in the case of loose hairstyles dried by infrared radiation, because, as indicated above, this drying method excessively dehydrates the hair, at least in area.

According to the present invention, it was thought that it was possible, while increasing the speed of rearrangement of the hair by increasing the temperature at which this rearrangement takes place, ensuring during this rearrangement resumption of water in the hair to bring it back to a state where it is approximately in hygrometric equilibrium with the atmosphere at ambient temperature. It has therefore been imagined, according to the invention, to subject the hair to a conditioning phase during which a relatively high relative humidity is maintained. To obtain a rapid rearrangement, it has been found that it is necessary to place the hair in an atmosphere having a temperature between 35 ° C and 75 ° C approximately and having a relative humidity between 40 and 807. approximately.

According to the invention, the conditioning phase takes place (begins) either on damp hair or on totally or partially dried hair. If the conditioning phase begins when the hair is still damp, that is to say when it has not yet lost all the amount of water absorbed during washing the hair, the expected rapid rearrangement occurs from incomplete, that is to say on the surface, and if the drying is pushed to a point where the hair has a loss of water compared to its initial condition, the conditioning phase necessarily ensures a resumption of water from the hair, and the expected rapid rearrangement takes place completely, that is to say to the heart of the fibers.

However, in the case of the method according to the present invention, it is sufficient, to obtain an improvement in the condition of the tips of the hair, that the rapid rearrangement is carried out on the surface. This will prevent hair breakage that occurs when it is dehydrated.

The present invention therefore has as an object a method for improving the condition and appearance of the hair, in particular of its tips, characterized in that after having subjected said hair to a wet treatment, they are subjected to a conditioning phase carried out in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately, at a temperature between 35 and 75 ° C approximately, the hair, having undergone the wet treatment, being left free for the conditioning phase.

After the wet treatment, the hair is shaped according to the usual technique for free drying: the hair in the wet state is shaped, for example, with a comb according to the desired hairstyle.

According to the present invention, it is possible, before subjecting the hair to said conditioning phase, to subject them to undergo at least partial drying. If the hair is dried, drying occurs in two phases; the first phase corresponds to normal drying with the sending of a current of warm air of moderate force, calculated so as not to displace the hair, or to move them only slightly insensitive the second phase corresponds to the sending a current of hot air (35 to 75 ° C), also of moderate strength and having a relative humidity included in the above-mentioned value range.

The conditioning phase is started at a chosen time in a time interval beginning when the hair has been sufficiently dried to present a loss of water compared to its initial state before the wet treatment. Preferably, said time interval begins at the time when the hair has lost approximately 5 μ / of the amount of water absorbed during the wet treatment, and ends at the time when the hair has undergone weight loss, relative to the weight of the hair. hair before wet treatment, about 15%.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the relative humidity of the conditioning phase is fixed at a value close to the relative humidity of the ambient atmosphere with which the hair will be in contact with the end of treatment; the temperature is maintained during the conditioning phase at a value between 35 and 60 ° C and, preferably, close to 50 ° C; in the case where drying has been carried out prior to packaging, the temperature of the atmosphere in which the hair is located during the conditioning phase is maintained at a value close to the temperature practiced during the drying phase of the hair ; the conditioning phase is maintained for a time of between 5 and 60 minutes approximately, and preferably 10 and 20 minutes approximately; the conditioning phase is carried out by injecting water vapor into the atmosphere, where the hair is located.

During the conditioning phase, a treatment product can optionally be injected into the atmosphere where the hair is located. The term "treatment product" means a product commonly used in cosmetics, such as anti-seborrheic _s dandruff agents, anti-fall, forming resins, deodorant, disinfectants, perfumes, hair oil and the like.

If one wishes to completely dry the hair, one carries out this drying until reaching in the atmosphere, which surrounds the hair, a relative humidity close to 15%; the hair is dried until a weight loss is obtained, relative to the weight of the hair before wet treatment, of between 1 and 15%, and preferably between 5% and 15%; the hair is dried at a temperature between 40 and 75 ° C for a time between 10 and 60 minutes; hair is dried by ventilation of air taken outside and heated, in open circuit.

Provision may be made for the initial wet treatment of the hair to be a wetting with water and / or a shampoo and / or a cosmetic treatment involving wetting of the hair with an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic solution, for example a solution of reinforcement such as resins; after the conditioning phase, we can apply Apply a non-wetting cosmetic treatment to the hair, such as a hairspray.

The hair treated by the method according to the invention can be natural hair, bleached, colored or permed.

With this process, the keratin fibers are rearranged quickly, at least on the surface, which improves the shine and the general appearance of the hairstyle. Furthermore, there has been a surprising effect with regard to the movements or undulations which can, if necessary, be given to the hair. Under the aforementioned optimal conditions, these movements or undulations appear more aesthetic and have a more natural appearance, the hair then appearing in better condition.

The present invention also relates to a say _- positive for the implementation of the method defined above, characterized in that it comprises means for adjusting the relative humidity of the atmosphere where the hair is placed. In the case where it is intended for the implementation of the method comprising a step of drying wet hair, this device also comprises means for ensuring said drying.

In a first embodiment, the device according to the invention consists of two separate devices, one ensuring the drying of the hair, in the case where it is desired to carry out drying, and the other ensuring the phase of conditioning in a more humid atmosphere; the device ensuring the drying of the hair may be a conventional type of dryer hood; the device ensuring the conditioning phase can be an oven-enclosure with low air circulation.

In a second embodiment, the device according to the invention consists of a single device operating in two successive cycles, one corresponding to drying and the other to the conditioning phase. In a pre miere variant, the device consists of a flexible cap placed on the hair to be treated and supplied with hot air by a pipe connected to a heating member and / or humidifier. In another variant, the device consists of a dryer hood of the conventional type equipped with an element allowing an injection of vapor into the blown air during the conditioning phase; the start of the steam injection can be triggered automatically either after a predetermined drying time, or when a predetermined relative humidity is reached in the drying atmosphere; the injection of steam can be controlled by a regulator keeping the value of the relative humidity of this air at a constant value.

To better understand the object of the invention, we will now describe, by way of purely illustrative and nonlimiting example, several modes of implementation. The appended drawing provides an explanatory curve relating to the method according to the invention and schematic representations relating to the devices intended for the implementation of the method.

• - la figure 1 représente la courbe donnant en fonction du temps la variation relative de poids en % d'un cheveu mouillé soumis à un séchage à 60°C pendant 45 minutes puis abandonné dans une atmosphère à 26°C et 56% d'humidité relative ;
• - la figure 2 représente schématiquement les deux appareils qui constituent le premier mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention ;
• - la figure 3 représente schématiquement un appareil constituant une première variante d'un deuxième mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention ;
• - la figure 4 représente schématiquement un appareil qui constitue une deuxième variante du deuxième mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention.

On this drawing :

• - Figure 1 shows the curve giving as a function of time the relative weight change in% of a wet hair subjected to drying at 60 ° C for 45 minutes and then left in an atmosphere at 26 ° C and 56% humidity relative;
• - Figure 2 shows schematically the two devices which constitute the first embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention;
• - Figure 3 schematically shows an apparatus constituting a first variant of a second embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention;
• - Figure 4 shows schematically a device reil which constitutes a second variant of the second embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention.

As already indicated at the beginning of this description, FIG. 1 shows that a hair undergoes an increase in weight of 35% at the time of its wetting and then returns by drying in 45 min at 60 ° C to a lower weight. 9% of its initial weight. The hair left in an atmosphere at 26 ° C and 56% relative humidity roughly returns to its initial weight about 2 hours after the end of drying.

The conditioning phase according to the present invention can begin while the hair is still damp, that is to say when they have not lost all the amount of water absorbed during their washing. By way of example, conditioning is started after 35 minutes of drying with air at 65 ° C. and 10% relative humidity, the hair then having a weight loss of approximately 6% relative to their initial weight. For this conditioning, the hair is brought into contact for 20 minutes with an atmosphere at 60 ° C. and 70% relative humidity. The hair thus treated has a great shine, without any bleaching of the ends.

For the implementation of the method according to the invention, it is proposed to use several types of devices.

The first type of device is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 2. It comprises a conventional type 1 dryer hood intended for carrying out the drying phase of the process ............... according to the invention and an oven-enclosure 2, distinct from the dryer-hood 1, said oven-enclosure being supplied by the pipe 3 so that a constant relative humidity is maintained there. The temperature inside the oven enclosure 2 is also kept constant. The user, who has had her hair wetted, either with water or with a shampoo followed by rinsing, possibly with the application of a polymerized agent risable for reinforcement, puts her hair in shape for example by an appropriate combing and possibly places herself under the dryer hood 1. Then, the user places her hair in the oven-enclosure 2 and maintains it there for the time of expected packaging. Then, the user carries out a finishing combing if she wishes.

The second embodiment of the device according to the invention is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3. In this figure, it can be seen that the user, whose hair has been wetted and shaped as indicated above and who wishes to dry her hair beforehand , places it inside a flexible cap 4, made for example of plastic, said cap being connected by a pipe 5 to a heating member and / or humidifier 6. During the drying phase, the member 6 sends hot air in the cup 4 and the air is evacuated through the pipe 5 which is used both for supplying and evacuating said air; the drying air is exhausted to the outside. When the drying phase is complete and the conditioning phase begins, the air circulation provided by the member 6 is no longer in an open circuit but in a closed circuit and the member 6 adds to the circulating air a sufficient amount of water to maintain inside the cup 4 a constant relative humidity. Instead of water, an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic liquid for treating the hair or scalp can be introduced into the air during the conditioning phase.

In another embodiment shown in FIG. 4, it can be seen that the device according to the invention consists of a dryer hood 7 of the conventional type modified to allow the implementation of the method according to the invention. The dryer hood 7 is equipped with a fan 8 which sucks in the outside air according to the arrow F and pulses it after heating in the direction of the hair, the forced air emerging from the helmet around the head of the user according to the arrows Fl. The helmet 7 is equipped with a device 9 allowing the injection into the pulsed hot air flow of a quantity of steam intended to maintain a constant relative humidity. After the wet hair of the user has been shaped, the hair is put under the helmet 7 and the drying phase of the process is started, if desired. When the drying time has elapsed, water vapor (or a treatment liquid in the vapor state) is introduced via line 9 throughout the duration of the conditioning phase, the quantity of steam being regulated so as to maintain a constant relative humidity around the hair.

It is understood that the embodiments and embodiments described above are in no way limiting and may give rise to any desirable modifications, without thereby departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (29)

1 - Method for improving the condition and appearance of the hair, in particular of their ends, characterized in that after having subjected said hair to a wet treatment, they are subjected to a conditioning phase carried out in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately, at a temperature of between 35 and 75 ° C, the hair having undergone the wet treatment being left free for the conditioning phase. 2 - Method according to claim 1, characterized in that before subjecting the hair to said conditioning phase, they are subjected to at least partial drying. 3 - Method according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that after the wet treatment, the hair is shaped according to the usual technique for free drying. 4 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the current of hot air sent to the hair during the conditioning phase, and during drying, when it takes place, is so forcefully that the hair is not moved or is not very sensitive. 5 - Method according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that one begins the conditioning phase at a chosen time in a time interval starting while the hair is still wet and ending while the hair have been sufficiently dried to show a water loss from their initial state before the wet treatment. 6 - Method according to claim 5, characterized in that said time interval begins at the time when the hair has lost about 50% of the amount of water absorbed during the wet treatment, and ends at the time where the hair has suffered a weight loss, relative to the weight of the hair before the wet treatment, of approximately 15%. 7 - Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the hair is dried until a weight loss is obtained, relative to the weight of the hair before the wet treatment, between 1 and 15%. 8 - Method according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that one carries out the drying of the hair until reaching in the atmosphere surrounding the hair _- want a relative humidity close to 15%. 9 - Method according to one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that one carries out the drying of the hair at a temperature between 40 and 75 ^* C for a time between 10 and 60 m. 10 - Method according to one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that one carries out the drying of the hair by ventilation, in open circuit, of air taken outside and heated. 11 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that one chooses a relative humidity during the conditioning phase close to the relative humidity of the ambient atmosphere where the hair will be after application of this process. 12 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that one carries out the conditioning phase at a temperature between 35 and 60 ° C and, preferably, close to 50 ° C. 13 - Method according to one of Claims 2 to 12, characterized in that one carries out the phase condi _- tioning to a temperature close to that employed during the hair drying phase. 14 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that one carries out the conditioning phase for a time between 5 and 60 approximately. 15 - Method according to claim 14, characterized by the fact that the conditioning phase is carried out for a time of between 10 and 20 minutes approximately. 16 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that one carries out the conditioning phase by injecting into the atmosphere, where the hair is located, water vapor. 17 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that during the conditioning phase, is injected into the atmosphere, where the hair is, a treatment product. 18 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that one carries out the initial wet treatment of the hair by wetting with water, and / or a shampoo, and / or a cosmetic treatment involving the wetting the hair with an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. - 19 - Method according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that one treats natural hair, bleached, colored or permed. 20 - Device for implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that it comprises means (2, 6, 9) for adjusting the relative humidity of the atmosphere where are placed the hair. 21 - Device according to claim 20, intended for the implementation of the method comprising an at least partial drying step, characterized in that it comprises ........ means (1, 4, 7) to dry damp hair. 22 - Device according to claim 21, characterized in that it consists of two separate devices, one (1) ensuring the drying of the hair by hot air and the other (2) ensuring the conditioning phase in atmosphere more humid. 23 - Device according to claim 22, characterized in that the apparatus (1) ensuring the drying of hair is a classic type dryer hood. 24 - Device according to one of claims 22 and 23, characterized in that the device (2) ensuring the conditioning phase is an enclosure-oven with low air circulation. 25 - Device according to claim 21, characterized in that it consists of a single device operating in two successive cycles, one corresponding to drying and the other to the conditioning phase. 26 - Device according to claim 25, characterized in that it consists of a flexible cap (4) placed on the hair to be treated and supplied with hot air by a pipe (5) connected to a heating member and / or humidifier (6). 27 - Device according to claim 25, characterized in that it consists of a dryer hood (7) of conventional type equipped with an element (9) allowing the injection of steam into the blown air during the conditioning phase. 28 - Device according to claim 27, characterized in that the injection of steam into the air blown during the conditioning phase is controlled by a regulator maintaining the relative humidity of this air at a constant value. 29 - Device according to claim 27, characterized in that the start of the steam injection is triggered automatically either after a predetermined drying time, or when a predetermined relative humidity is reached in the drying atmosphere.

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