EP0201622A2 - Method of treating hair, especially the tips - Google Patents

Method of treating hair, especially the tips Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0201622A2
EP0201622A2 EP85110670A EP85110670A EP0201622A2 EP 0201622 A2 EP0201622 A2 EP 0201622A2 EP 85110670 A EP85110670 A EP 85110670A EP 85110670 A EP85110670 A EP 85110670A EP 0201622 A2 EP0201622 A2 EP 0201622A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
drying
conditioning phase
initial
carried out
Prior art date
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Granted
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EP85110670A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0201622B1 (en
EP0201622A3 (en
Inventor
Annie Madrange
Jean-Louis Refregier
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to AT85110670T priority Critical patent/ATE72384T1/en
Publication of EP0201622A2 publication Critical patent/EP0201622A2/en
Publication of EP0201622A3 publication Critical patent/EP0201622A3/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D20/00—Hair drying devices; Accessories therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/16—Surface treatment of hair by steam, oil, or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new method for carrying out a treatment of the hair making it possible to obtain an improved state of the latter and in particular of their tips.
  • the process according to the invention finds its application when drying hair which has been subjected to wetting with water or a shampoo. Furthermore, it is intended for hair which, once wet or moistened, is left free for drying, that is to say is not wound on curlers or styling rollers. For convenience of language, we will speak, in the remainder of this description, of "free hairstyles" or "free hair”.
  • the current technique which is generally used for drying loose hairstyles, consists in exposing the hair to the heat produced by one or more lamps with infrared radiation. This drying takes place without ventilation or with very little ventilation.
  • This drying method is the cause of drying of the hair and the succession of drying of this type quickly leads to a degradation of the appearance of the hairstyle.
  • This drawback is particularly unpleasant in the case of curly hairstyles which are obtained by a treatment of the permanent type and which, most of the time, are dried using this technique.
  • the present invention overcomes this drawback because it relates to a particular drying technique making it possible to avoid or compensate for excessive dehydration of the hair as it occurs with the usual drying techniques.
  • this phenomenon could consist of a rearrangement of the constituent molecules of the hair and, without this explanation being in any way limiting, it has been postulated that the wet treatment of the hair allows the penetration of the 'water in the hair and increases the dielectric constant of the medium existing between the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair, so that the hydrogen bonds no longer exist for wet hair.
  • the water molecules are extracted from the hair in an amount such that there is a loss in weight relative to the initial weight; the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair which had been discarded due to the presence of the water molecules, remain relatively spaced apart and do not allow instantaneously at room temperature, the reformation of the hydrogen bonds, this reformation only taking place gradually with relatively low speed.
  • the water molecules, which return to the hair at room temperature to ensure water uptake after the end of drying, are in the form of agglomerates the larger the lower the temperature and the rearrangement of these molecules d water in the hair is carried out slowly.
  • the conditioning phase takes place (begins) on completely dried hair.
  • the drying is pushed to a point where the hair has a loss of water compared to its initial condition; the conditioning phase necessarily ensures a resumption of water in the hair, and the expected rapid rearrangement takes place completely, that is to say to the heart of the fibers.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a method for drying the hair after a wet treatment in which, after said wet treatment, the hair is dried at a temperature between about 35 and 75 ° C, the last part of the drying being a conditioning phase using humid blown air having a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately, characterized in that the hair is dried in the free state and that, to improve the condition and the appearance of the hair after drying and, in particular of its ends, it is first subjected to an initial drying until it has a weight less than its initial weight before wet treatment, and then, to the conditioning phase in humid air until the rehydration concomitant with the conditioning effect is obtained.
  • the hair is shaped according to the usual technique for free drying, the hair in the wet state is shaped, for example with a comb according to the desired hairstyle.
  • the hair before subjecting the hair to said conditioning phase, it is subjected to an initial drying. Drying occurs therefore in two phases; the first phase corresponds to a normal initial drying, ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- so as not to move the hair or to move it only in a slightly sensitive manner; the second phase corresponds to the sending of a current of hot air (from 35 to 75 ° C), also of moderate force and having a relative humidity included in the above-mentioned value range.
  • the conditioning phase is started at a chosen time in a time interval beginning when the hair has been sufficiently dried to present a loss of water compared to its initial state before the wet treatment.
  • said time interval ends at the time when the hair has undergone weight loss, relative to the weight of the hair before the wet treatment, of approximately 15%.
  • a treatment product can optionally be injected into the atmosphere where the hair is located.
  • treatment product is meant a product ordinarily used in cosmetics, such as anti-seborrheic agents, anti dandruff, anti-hair loss, film-forming resins, deodorants, disinfectants, perfumes, brilliantine and the like.
  • the hair is dried until a weight loss is obtained relative to the weight of the hair before wet treatment, of between 1 and 15%, and preferably between 5 % and 15%; the initial drying of the hair is carried out at a temperature between 40 and 75 ° C for a time between 10 and 60 minutes.
  • an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution for example a solution of reinforcing agents such as only resins
  • the hair treated by the method according to the invention can be natural hair, bleached, colored or permed.
  • the keratin fibers are rearranged quickly, at least on the surface, which improves the shine and the general appearance of the hairstyle, in particular the appearance of the tips. Furthermore, there has been a surprising effect with regard to the movements or undulations which can, if necessary, be given to the hair. Under the aforementioned conditions, these movements or undulations appear more aesthetic and have a more natural appearance, the hair then appearing in better condition. In addition, there is a particular improvement in the appearance of the tips which are less visible, less whitish, hang the comb less and integrate better with the hair.
  • the device intended for the implementation of the process defined above comprises means for regulating the relative humidity of the atmosphere where the hair, means for ensuring said drying.
  • such a device consists of two separate devices, one ensuring the initial drying of the hair and the other ensuring the conditioning phase in a more humid atmosphere; the device ensuring the drying of the hair can be a drier or lamps with infrared radiation of conventional type; the device ensuring the conditioning phase can be an oven-enclosure with low air circulation.
  • such a device consists of a single device operating in two successive cycles, one corresponding to the initial drying and the other to the conditioning phase.
  • the device consists of a flexible cap placed on the hair to be treated and supplied with hot air by a pipe connected to a heating and / or humidifier.
  • the device consists of a dryer hood of the conventional type equipped with an element allowing an injection of vapor into the blown air during the conditioning phase; the start of the steam injection can be triggered automatically either after a predetermined drying time, or when a predetermined relative humidity is reached in the drying atmosphere; the injection of steam can be controlled by a regulator keeping the value of the relative humidity of this air at a constant value.
  • FIG. 1 shows that a hair undergoes an increase in weight of 35% at the time of its wetting and then returns by drying in 45 min at 60 ° C to a lower weight. 9% of its initial weight. The hair left in an atmosphere at 26 ° C and 56% relative humidity roughly returns to its initial weight about 2 hours after the end of drying.
  • the first type of device is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 2. It includes a conventional type 1 dryer intended to carry out the drying phase. of the method according to the invention and an oven-enclosure 2, distinct from the dryer 1, ----- said oven-enclosure being supplied by the pipe 3 so that a constant relative humidity is maintained there.
  • the temperature inside the oven enclosure 2 is also kept constant.
  • the user who has undergone wetting of the hair, either with water or with the aid of a shampoo followed by rinsing, optionally with the application of a polymerizable reinforcing agent, puts her hair in shape by example by an appropriate combing and possibly placed under the ----- dryer 1. Then, the user places her hair in the oven-enclosure 2 and maintains it there for the expected conditioning time. Then, the user carries out a finishing combing if she wishes.
  • FIG. 3 A second type of device is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3.
  • the user whose hair has been wet and shaped as indicated above and who wishes to dry her hair beforehand, places it in the inside of a flexible cap 4, made for example of plastic material, said cap being connected by a pipe 5 to a heating and / or humidifier member 6.
  • the member 6 sends hot air in the cap 4 and the air is evacuated through the pipe 5 which is used both for the supply and the evacuation of said air; the initial drying air is exhausted to the outside.
  • the air circulation provided by the member 6 is no longer in open circuit but in circuit. closed and the member 6 adds to the circulating air a sufficient amount of water to maintain inside the cap 4 a constant relative humidity.
  • the device for implementing the invention consists of a dryer hood 7 of the modified conventional type.
  • the dryer hood 7 is equipped with a fan 8, which draws in the outside air according to the arrow F and the pulse after heating in the direction of the hair, the forced air emerging from the helmet around the wearer's head according to the arrows F1.
  • the hood 7 has a say - positive 9 for injection into the hot air flow pulse an amount of steam for maintaining a constant relative humidity.
  • the hair is put under the helmet 7 and the initial drying phase of the process is started.
  • water vapor or a treatment liquid in the vapor state
  • the quantity of vapor being regulated so as to to maintain a constant relative humidity around the hair.

Abstract

A process of and apparatus for conditioning the hair, especially the tips thereof. After the hair has been dampened, for example by shampooing, and optionally dried, either partially or completely, it is subjected to a conditioning step in which it is maintained in an atmosphere having a relative humidity of from about 40 to 80% and at a temperature of from about 35 DEG to 75 DEG C. A special hood may be provided for use in the conditioning operation.

Description

La présente invention est relative à un nouveau procédé pour réaliser un traitement des cheveux permettant d'obtenir un état amélioré de ceux-ci et notamment de leurs pointes.The present invention relates to a new method for carrying out a treatment of the hair making it possible to obtain an improved state of the latter and in particular of their tips.

Le procédé selon l'invention trouve son application au moment du séchage des cheveux qui ont été soumis à un mouillage à l'eau ou à un shampooing. Par ailleurs, il est destiné aux cheveux qui, une fois mouillés ou humidifiés, sont laissés libres pour le séchage, c'est-à-dire ne sont pas enroulés sur des bigoudis ou des rouleaux de mise en plis. Pour une commodité de langage, on parlera, dans la suite de la présente description, de "coiffures libres" ou "cheveux libres".The process according to the invention finds its application when drying hair which has been subjected to wetting with water or a shampoo. Furthermore, it is intended for hair which, once wet or moistened, is left free for drying, that is to say is not wound on curlers or styling rollers. For convenience of language, we will speak, in the remainder of this description, of "free hairstyles" or "free hair".

La technique actuelle, qui est généralement employée pour le séchage des coiffures libres, consiste à exposer la chevelure à la chaleur produite par une ou plusieurs lampes à rayonnement infrarouge. Ce séchage a lieu sans ventilation ou bien avec une très faible ventilation.The current technique, which is generally used for drying loose hairstyles, consists in exposing the hair to the heat produced by one or more lamps with infrared radiation. This drying takes place without ventilation or with very little ventilation.

Ce mode de séchage est la cause d'un dessèchement des cheveux et la succession des séchages de ce type conduit rapidement à une dégradation de l'aspect de la coiffure. Cet inconvénient est particulièrement désagréable dans le cas des coiffures frisées qui sont obtenues par un traitement du type permanente et qui, la plupart du temps, sont séchées suivant cette technique.This drying method is the cause of drying of the hair and the succession of drying of this type quickly leads to a degradation of the appearance of the hairstyle. This drawback is particularly unpleasant in the case of curly hairstyles which are obtained by a treatment of the permanent type and which, most of the time, are dried using this technique.

Ce dessèchement des cheveux s'explique par la température importante à laquelle il faut les soumettre pour obtenir un séchage suffisamment rapide, dans des conditions de ventilation faible ne déplaçant pas les cheveux. Cette chaleur s'applique en excès aux cheveux placés à la surface de la chevelure, qui subit alors un dessèchement excessif susceptible d'entraîner des éclatements des fibres kératiniques aux endroits fragiles, en particulier au niveau des pointes des cheveux, celles-ci devenant fourchues et blanchâtres. Il s'ensuit que la chevelure n'est pas soyeuse au toucher, qu'elle est moins brillante et que sa forme d'ensem- ble est altérée du fait qu'elle présente moins de volume.This drying out of the hair is explained by the high temperature to which it must be subjected in order to obtain sufficiently rapid drying, in conditions of poor ventilation which do not displace the hair. This heat is applied in excess to the hair placed on the surface of the hair, which then undergoes excessive drying capable of causing bursts of the keratin fibers in fragile places, in particular at the level of the ends of the hair, the latter becoming split ends. and whitish. It follows that the hair is not silky at touch, it is less bright and form of ensem- bl e is impaired because it has less volume.

La présente invention permet de remédier à cet inconvénient car elle a pour objet une technique particulière de séchage permettant d'éviter ou de compenser la déshydratation excessive des cheveux telle qu'elle se produit avec les techniques usuelles de séchage.The present invention overcomes this drawback because it relates to a particular drying technique making it possible to avoid or compensate for excessive dehydration of the hair as it occurs with the usual drying techniques.

On a constaté que le traitement humide auquel est soumis un cheveu lors d'un mouillage à l'eau ou d'un shampooing, provoque une augmentation du poids des cheveux, la variation relative de Doids étant de l'ordre de 35 %. Le séchage des cheveux entraîne une perte d'eau, qui est supérieure au gain de poids des cheveux lors du traitement humide, et, en fin de séchage, la variation relative du poids des cheveux par rapport au poids avant traitement humide est généralement voisine de -9 % : cette perte de poids est, bien entendu, essentiellement fonction du séchage et, en particulier, de sa durée et de la température pratiquée. Lorsque le séchage est terminé, on constate que les cheveux reprennent progressivement de l'humidité à l'air ambiant et ce comportement des cheveux a été représenté sur la figure 1 du dessin annexé ; généralement le retour des cheveux au poids qu'ils avaient initialement avant le traitement humide s'effectue en plusieurs heures.It has been found that the wet treatment to which a hair is subjected during wetting with water or a shampoo, causes an increase in the weight of the hair, the relative variation of D oids being of the order of 35%. Hair drying results in a loss of water, which is greater than the weight gain of the hair during the wet treatment, and, at the end of drying, the relative variation in the weight of the hair relative to the weight before wet treatment is generally close to -9%: this weight loss is, of course, essentially a function of drying and, in particular, of its duration and the temperature practiced. When the drying is finished, it is noted that the hair gradually regains moisture in the ambient air and this behavior of the hair has been shown in FIG. 1 of the attached drawing; generally the return of the hair to the weight which it had initially before the wet treatment is carried out in several hours.

Dans le brevet européen n° 41.446, on a étudié les phénomènes qui se produisent lors du séchage des cheveux enroulés sur des bigoudis. Cette étude a permis de mettre en évidence qu'il se produit dans les cheveux un phénomène postérieur à la fin de la reprise en eau.In European patent n ° 41.446, the phenomena which occur during the drying of hair coiled on curlers have been studied. This study made it possible to highlight that a phenomenon occurs in the hair after the end of the water uptake.

Comme on l'a exposé dans le brevet précité, ce phénomène pourrait consister en un réarrangement des molécules constitutives du cheveu et, sans que cette explication soit aucunement limitative, on a émis l'hypothèse que le traitement humide des cheveux permet la pénétration de l'eau dans les cheveux et augmente la constante diélectrique du milieu existant entre les sites chargés des molécules constitutives du cheveu, de sorte que les liaisons hydrogène n'existent plus pour les cheveux mouillés. Lorsque le séchage est réalisé, les molécules d'eau sont extraites du cheveu en quantité telle que l'on constate une perte en poids par rapport au poids initial ; les sites chargés des molécules constitutives du cheveu qui avait été écartés en raison de la présence des molécules d'eau, restent relativement écartés et ne permettent pas instantanément à température ambiante, la reformation des liaisons hydrogène, cette reformation ne s'effectuant que progressivement avec une vitesse relativement faible. Les molécules d'eau, qui rentrent dans le cheveu à température ambiante pour assurer la reprise en eau après la fin du séchage, sont sous forme d'agglomérats d'autant plus gros que la température est plus basse et le réarrangement de ces molécules d'eau dans le cheveu s'effectue lentement.As explained in the aforementioned patent, this phenomenon could consist of a rearrangement of the constituent molecules of the hair and, without this explanation being in any way limiting, it has been postulated that the wet treatment of the hair allows the penetration of the 'water in the hair and increases the dielectric constant of the medium existing between the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair, so that the hydrogen bonds no longer exist for wet hair. When the drying is carried out, the water molecules are extracted from the hair in an amount such that there is a loss in weight relative to the initial weight; the charged sites of the constituent molecules of the hair which had been discarded due to the presence of the water molecules, remain relatively spaced apart and do not allow instantaneously at room temperature, the reformation of the hydrogen bonds, this reformation only taking place gradually with relatively low speed. The water molecules, which return to the hair at room temperature to ensure water uptake after the end of drying, are in the form of agglomerates the larger the lower the temperature and the rearrangement of these molecules d water in the hair is carried out slowly.

On voit donc que le réarrangement de la distribution de l'eau dans le cheveu, d'une part, et la reformation des liaisons hydrogène ou autres dans le cheveu, d'autre part, sont des phénomènes qui, à température ambiante, se produisent de façon lente et qui, vraisemblablement, constituent ce que l'on a appelé précédemment le réarrangement du cheveu.We therefore see that the rearrangement of the distribution of water in the hair, on the one hand, and the reformation of hydrogen or other bonds in the hair, on the other hand, are phenomena which, at ambient temperature, occur in a slow manner and which, presumably, constitute what has been called previously the rearrangement of the hair.

Ce réarrangement, qui est un phénomène lent, se produit avec encore plus de difficultés dans le cas des coiffures libres séchées par rayonnement infrarouge, car, comme on l'a indiqué plus haut, ce mode de séchage déshydrate trop la chevelure, au moins en surface.This rearrangement, which is a slow phenomenon, occurs with even more difficulty in the case of loose hairstyles dried by infrared radiation, because, as indicated above, this drying method excessively dehydrates the hair, at least in area.

Selon la présente invention, on a pensé que l'on pouvait, tout en augmentant la vitesse de réarrangement du cheveu par augmentation de la température à laquelle s'effectue ce réarrangement, assurer pendant ce réarrangement la reprise en eau du cheveu pour le ramener à un état où il se trouve approximativement en équilibre hygrométrique avec l'atmosphère à température ambiante. On a donc imaginé, selon l'invention, de soumettre les cheveux à une phase dite de conditionnement pendant laquelle on maintient une hygrométrie relative assez élevée. Pour obtenir un réarrangement rapide, on a constaté qu'il était nécessaire de placer le cheveu dans une atmosphère ayant une température suffisante comprise entre 35°C. et 75°C environ et ayant une hygrométrie relative comprise entre 40 et 80 % environ.According to the present invention, it was thought that, while increasing the speed of rearrangement of the hair by increasing the temperature at which this rearrangement takes place, during this rearrangement it is possible to ensure that the hair is taken up in water to bring it back to a state where it is approximately in hygrometric equilibrium with the atmosphere at room temperature. So we imagined, according to the invention, to subject the hair to a so-called conditioning phase during which a relatively high relative humidity is maintained. To obtain a rapid rearrangement, it has been found that it is necessary to place the hair in an atmosphere having a sufficient temperature of between 35 ° C. and about 75 ° C and having a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately.

Selon l'invention, la phase de conditionnement intervient (commence) sur des cheveux totalement séchés. Le séchage est poussé jusqu'à un point où le cheveu présente une perte en eau par rapport à sa condition initiale ; la phase de conditionnement assure nécessairement une reprise en eau du cheveu, et le réarrangement rapide attendu a lieu de manière complète, c'est-à-dire jusqu'au coeur des fibres.According to the invention, the conditioning phase takes place (begins) on completely dried hair. The drying is pushed to a point where the hair has a loss of water compared to its initial condition; the conditioning phase necessarily ensures a resumption of water in the hair, and the expected rapid rearrangement takes place completely, that is to say to the heart of the fibers.

La présente invention a, en conséquence, pour objet, un procédé pour le séchage des cheveux après un traitement humide dans lequel, après ledit traitement humide, on sèche les cheveux à une température comprise entre 35 et 75°C environ, la dernière partie du séchage étant une phase de conditionnement mettant en oeuvre un air soufflé humide ayant une hygrométrie relative comprise entre 40 et 80 % environ, caractérisé par le fait que les cheveux sont séchés à l'état libre et que, pour améliorer l'état et l'aspect des cheveux après séchage et, en particulier de leurs pointes, on les soumet d'abord à un séchage initial jusqu'à ce qu'ils aient un poids inférieur à leur poids initial avant traitement humide, et ensuite, à la phase de conditionnement en air humide jusqu'à obtention de la réhydratation concomitante à l'effet de conditionnement.The present invention therefore relates to a method for drying the hair after a wet treatment in which, after said wet treatment, the hair is dried at a temperature between about 35 and 75 ° C, the last part of the drying being a conditioning phase using humid blown air having a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately, characterized in that the hair is dried in the free state and that, to improve the condition and the appearance of the hair after drying and, in particular of its ends, it is first subjected to an initial drying until it has a weight less than its initial weight before wet treatment, and then, to the conditioning phase in humid air until the rehydration concomitant with the conditioning effect is obtained.

Après le traitement humide, les cheveux sont mis en forme selon la technique usuelle pour le séchage libre la chevelure à l'état humide est mise en forme, par exemple avec un peigne suivant le style de coiffure souhaité.After the wet treatment, the hair is shaped according to the usual technique for free drying, the hair in the wet state is shaped, for example with a comb according to the desired hairstyle.

Conformément à la présente invention, avant de soumettre les cheveux à ladite phase de conditionnement, on leur fait subir un séchage initial. Le séchage se produit donc en deux phases ; la première phase correspond à un séchage initial normal, ---------------------------------------------------------------de façon à ne pas déplacer les cheveux ou à ne les déplacer que de manière peu sensible ; la deuxième phase correspond à l'envoi d'un courant d'air chaud (de 35 à 75°C), également de force modérée et ayant une hygrométrie relative comprise dans la gamme de valeur précitée.According to the present invention, before subjecting the hair to said conditioning phase, it is subjected to an initial drying. Drying occurs therefore in two phases; the first phase corresponds to a normal initial drying, ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- so as not to move the hair or to move it only in a slightly sensitive manner; the second phase corresponds to the sending of a current of hot air (from 35 to 75 ° C), also of moderate force and having a relative humidity included in the above-mentioned value range.

On commence la phase de conditionnement à un moment choisi dans un intervalle de temps commençant alors que les cheveux ont été suffisamment séchés pour présenter une perte en eau par rapport à leur état initial avant le traitement humide. De préférence, ledit intervalle de temps finit au moment où les cheveux ont subi une perte de poids, par rapport au poids des cheveux avant le traitement humide, de 15 % environ.The conditioning phase is started at a chosen time in a time interval beginning when the hair has been sufficiently dried to present a loss of water compared to its initial state before the wet treatment. Preferably, said time interval ends at the time when the hair has undergone weight loss, relative to the weight of the hair before the wet treatment, of approximately 15%.

Dans un mode préféré de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention, ------------------------------------------- on maintient ------------------------------------------------la température pendant la phase de conditionnement à une valeur comprise entre 35 et 60°C, de préférence, voisine de 50°C ; on maintient la température de l'atmosphère, où se trouvent les cheveux pendant la phase de conditionnement, à une valeur voisine de la température pratiquée pendant la phase de séchage initial des cheveux ; on maintient la phase de conditionnement pendant un temps compris entre 5 et 60 minutes environ, et, de préférence, 10 et 20 minutes environ ; on réalise la phase de conditionnement en injectant dans l'atmosphère, où se trouvent les cheveux, de la vapeur d'eau.In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, ----------------------------------- -------- we maintain ---------------------------------------- -------- the temperature during the conditioning phase at a value between 35 and 60 ° C, preferably close to 50 ° C; maintaining the temperature of the atmosphere, where the hair is located during the conditioning phase, at a value close to the temperature practiced during the initial drying phase of the hair; the conditioning phase is maintained for a time of between 5 and 60 minutes approximately, and preferably 10 and 20 minutes approximately; the conditioning phase is carried out by injecting water vapor into the atmosphere, where the hair is located.

Au cours de la phase de conditionnement, on peut éventuellement injecter, dans l'atmosphère où se trouvent les cheveux, un produit de traitement. Par le terme "produit de traitement", on entend un produit utilisé ordinairement en cosmétique, tel que les agents anti-séborrhéiques, antipelliculaires, anti-chute, les résines filmogènes, les déodorants, les désinfectants, les parfums, la brillantine et analogues.During the conditioning phase, a treatment product can optionally be injected into the atmosphere where the hair is located. By the term "treatment product" is meant a product ordinarily used in cosmetics, such as anti-seborrheic agents, anti dandruff, anti-hair loss, film-forming resins, deodorants, disinfectants, perfumes, brilliantine and the like.

Selon un mode de mise en oeuvre de l'invention, on réalise le séchage des cheveux jusqu'à obtention d'une perte en poids par rapport au poids des cheveux avant traitement humide, comprise entre 1 et 15 %, et de préférence entre 5 % et 15 % ; on réalise le séchage initial des cheveux à une température comprise entre 40 et 75°C pendant un temps compris entre 10 et 60 minutes. ,According to one embodiment of the invention, the hair is dried until a weight loss is obtained relative to the weight of the hair before wet treatment, of between 1 and 15%, and preferably between 5 % and 15%; the initial drying of the hair is carried out at a temperature between 40 and 75 ° C for a time between 10 and 60 minutes. ,

On peut prévoir que le traitement humide initial des cheveux soit un mouillage à l'eau et/ou un shampooing et/ou un traitement cosmétique impliquant le mouillage des cheveux par une solution aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique, par exemple une solution d'agents de renforcement tels que des résines ; après la phase de conditionnement, on peut appliquer aux cheveux un traitement cosmétique non mouillant tel qe'une pulvérisation de laque.Provision may be made for the initial wet treatment of the hair to be wetting with water and / or a shampoo and / or a cosmetic treatment involving wetting of the hair with an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, for example a solution of reinforcing agents such as only resins; after the conditioning phase, a non-wetting cosmetic treatment such as a hairspray can be applied to the hair.

Les cheveux traités par le procédé selon l'invention peuvent être des cheveux naturels, décolorés, colorés ou permanentés.The hair treated by the method according to the invention can be natural hair, bleached, colored or permed.

Avec ce procédé, on assure le réarrangement rapide des fibres kératiniques, au moins en surface, ce qui améliore la brillance et l'aspect général de la coiffure, notamment l'aspect des pointes. Par ailleurs, on a constaté un effet surprenant en ce qui concerne les mouvements ou ondùlations que l'on peut, le cas échéant, donner aux cheveux. Dans les conditions précitées, ces mouvements ou ondulations apparaissent plus esthétiques et présentent un aspect plus naturel, la chevelure paraissant alors en meilleur état. De plus, on remarque tout particulièrement une amélioration de l'aspect des pointes qui sont moins visibles, moins blanchâtres, accrochent moins le peigne et s'intègrent mieux à la chevelure.With this method, the keratin fibers are rearranged quickly, at least on the surface, which improves the shine and the general appearance of the hairstyle, in particular the appearance of the tips. Furthermore, there has been a surprising effect with regard to the movements or undulations which can, if necessary, be given to the hair. Under the aforementioned conditions, these movements or undulations appear more aesthetic and have a more natural appearance, the hair then appearing in better condition. In addition, there is a particular improvement in the appearance of the tips which are less visible, less whitish, hang the comb less and integrate better with the hair.

Le dispositif destiné à la mise en oeuvre du procédé ci-dessus défini comporte des moyens pour régler l'humidité relative de l'atmosphère où sont placés les cheveux,des moyens pour assurer ledit séchage.The device intended for the implementation of the process defined above comprises means for regulating the relative humidity of the atmosphere where the hair, means for ensuring said drying.

Dans un premier mode de réalisation, un tel dispositif est constitué de deux appareils distincts, l'un assurant le séchage initial des cheveux et l'autre assurant la phase de conditionnement en atmosphère plus humide ; l'appareil assurant le séchage des cheveux peut être un séchoir ou des lampes à rayonnement infra-rouge de type classique ; l'appareil assurant la phase de conditionnement peut être une enceinte-étuve à faible circulation d'air.In a first embodiment, such a device consists of two separate devices, one ensuring the initial drying of the hair and the other ensuring the conditioning phase in a more humid atmosphere; the device ensuring the drying of the hair can be a drier or lamps with infrared radiation of conventional type; the device ensuring the conditioning phase can be an oven-enclosure with low air circulation.

Dans un deuxième mode de réalisation, un tel dispositif est constitué d'un seul appareil fonctionnant selon deux cycles successifs, l'un correspondant au séchage initial et l'autre à la phase de conditionnement. Dans une première variante, l'appareil est constitué d'un bonnet souple placé sur la chevelure à traiter et alimenté en air chaud par une canalisation reliée à un organe chauffant et/ou humidificateur. Dans une autre variante, l'appareil est constitué d'un casque-séchoir de type classique équipé d'un élément permettant une injection de vapeur dans l'air soufflé pendant la phase de conditionnement ; le début de l'injection de vapeur peut être déclenché automatiquement soit après un temps de séchage prédéterminé, soit lorsque l'on atteint dans l'atmosphère de séchage une hygrométrie relative prédéterminée ; l'injection de vapeur peut être asservie par un régulateur maintenant la valeur de l'hygrométrie relative de cet air à une valeur constante.In a second embodiment, such a device consists of a single device operating in two successive cycles, one corresponding to the initial drying and the other to the conditioning phase. In a first variant, the device consists of a flexible cap placed on the hair to be treated and supplied with hot air by a pipe connected to a heating and / or humidifier. In another variant, the device consists of a dryer hood of the conventional type equipped with an element allowing an injection of vapor into the blown air during the conditioning phase; the start of the steam injection can be triggered automatically either after a predetermined drying time, or when a predetermined relative humidity is reached in the drying atmosphere; the injection of steam can be controlled by a regulator keeping the value of the relative humidity of this air at a constant value.

Pour mieux faire comprendre l'objet de l'invention, on va en décrire maintenant, à titre d'exemple purement illustratif et non limitatif, plusieurs modes de mise en oeuvre. Le dessin annexé fournit une courbe explicative relative au procédé selon l'invention et des représentations schématiques relatives aux dispositifs destinés à la mise en oeuvre du procédé.To better understand the object of the invention, we will now describe, by way of purely illustrative and nonlimiting example, several modes of implementation. The appended drawing provides an explanatory curve relating to the method according to the invention and schematic representations relating to the devices intended for the implementation of the method.

Sur ce dessin :

  • - la figure 1 représente la courbe donnant en fonction du temps la variation relative de poids en % d'un cheveu mouillé soumis à un séchage à 600C pendant 45 minutes puis abandonné dans une atmosphère à 26°C et 56 % d'humidité relative ;
  • - la figure 2 représente schématiquement les deux appareils qui constituent le premier mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention ;
  • - la figure 3 représente schématiquement un appareil constituant une première variante d'un deuxième mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention ;
  • - la figure 4 représente schématiquement un appareil qui constitue une deuxième variante du deuxième mode de réalisation du dispositif de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention.
On this drawing :
  • - Figure 1 shows the curve giving in as a function of time, the relative change in weight in% of a wet hair subjected to drying at 60 ° C. for 45 minutes and then left in an atmosphere at 26 ° C. and 56% relative humidity;
  • - Figure 2 shows schematically the two devices which constitute the first embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention;
  • - Figure 3 schematically shows an apparatus constituting a first variant of a second embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention;
  • - Figure 4 schematically shows an apparatus which constitutes a second variant of the second embodiment of the device for implementing the method according to the invention.

Comme on l'a déjà indiqué au début de la présente description, la figure 1 montre qu'un cheveu subit au moment de son mouillage une augmentation de poids de 35 % puis revient par séchage en 45 mn à 60°C à un poids inférieur de 9 % à son poids initial. Le cheveu abandonné dans une atmosphère à 26°C et 56 % d'humidité relative reprend à peu près son poids initial environ 2 heures après la fin du séchage.As already indicated at the beginning of this description, FIG. 1 shows that a hair undergoes an increase in weight of 35% at the time of its wetting and then returns by drying in 45 min at 60 ° C to a lower weight. 9% of its initial weight. The hair left in an atmosphere at 26 ° C and 56% relative humidity roughly returns to its initial weight about 2 hours after the end of drying.

A titre d'exemple, on commence le conditionnement après 35 mn de séchage initial avec un air à 65°C et 10 % d'humidité relative, les cheveux présentant alors une perte en poids d'environ 6 % par rapport à leur poids initial. Pour ce conditionnement, on met la chevelure en contact pendant 20 mn avec une atmosphère à 60°C et 70 % d'humidité relative. La chevelure ainsi traitée présente une grande brillance, sans aucun blanchissement des pointes.For example, we begin conditioning after 35 minutes of initial drying with air at 65 ° C and 10% relative humidity, the hair then having a weight loss of about 6% relative to their initial weight . For this conditioning, the hair is placed in contact for 20 minutes with an atmosphere at 60 ° C. and 70% relative humidity. The hair thus treated has a great shine, without any bleaching of the ends.

Pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention, on propose d'utiliser plusieurs types de dispositifs.For the implementation of the method according to the invention, it is proposed to use several types of devices.

Le premier type de dispositif est représenté schématiquement sur la figure 2. Il comporte un séchoir de type classique 1 destiné à réaliser la phase de eéchage du procédé selon l'invention et une enceinte-étuve 2, distincte du séchoir 1, ----- ladite enceinte-étuve étant alimentée par la canalisation 3 de façon que l'on y maintienne une hygrométrie relative constante. La température à l'intérieur de l'enceinte-étuve 2 est maintenue également constante. L'utilisatrice, qui a subi un mouillage des cheveux, soit à l'eau, soit à l'aide d'un shampooing suivi d'un rinçage, éventuellement avec application d'un agent polymérisable de renforcement, met sa chevelure en forme par exemple par un peignage approprié et se place éventuellement sous le ----- séchoir 1. Ensuite, l'utilisatrice place sa chevelure dans l'enceinte-étuve 2 et l'y maintient pendant le temps de conditionnement prévu. Ensuite, l'utilisatrice effectue si elle le désire un peignage de finition.The first type of device is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 2. It includes a conventional type 1 dryer intended to carry out the drying phase. of the method according to the invention and an oven-enclosure 2, distinct from the dryer 1, ----- said oven-enclosure being supplied by the pipe 3 so that a constant relative humidity is maintained there. The temperature inside the oven enclosure 2 is also kept constant. The user, who has undergone wetting of the hair, either with water or with the aid of a shampoo followed by rinsing, optionally with the application of a polymerizable reinforcing agent, puts her hair in shape by example by an appropriate combing and possibly placed under the ----- dryer 1. Then, the user places her hair in the oven-enclosure 2 and maintains it there for the expected conditioning time. Then, the user carries out a finishing combing if she wishes.

Un deuxième type de dispositif est représenté schématiquement sur la figure 3. Sur cette figure, on voit que l'utilisatrice, dont les cheveux ont été mouillés et mis en forme comme indiqué précédemment et qui souhaite préalablement sécher sa chevelure, la place à l'intérieur d'un bonnet souple 4, réalisé par exemple en matière plastique, ledit bonnet étant relié par une canalisation 5 à un organe chauffant et/ou humidificateur 6. Pendant la phase de séchage initial, l'organe 6 envoie de l'air chaud dans le bonnet 4 et l'air est évacué par la canalisation 5 qui sert à la fois à l'amenée et à l'évacuation dudit air ; l'air de séchage initial est évacué à l'extérieur. Au moment où la phase de séchage initial est terminée et où on commence la phase de conditionnement, la circulation d'air assurée par l'organe 6 s'effectue non plus en circuit ouvert mais en circuit. fermé et l'organe 6 additionne à l'air de circulation une quantité d'eau surffisante pour maintenir à l'intérieur du bonnet 4 une hygrométrie relative constante. A la place de l'eau, on peut introduire dans l'air pendant la phase de conditionnement un liquide aqueux ou hydroalcoolique de traitement des cheveux ou du cuir chevelu.A second type of device is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 3. In this figure, it can be seen that the user, whose hair has been wet and shaped as indicated above and who wishes to dry her hair beforehand, places it in the inside of a flexible cap 4, made for example of plastic material, said cap being connected by a pipe 5 to a heating and / or humidifier member 6. During the initial drying phase, the member 6 sends hot air in the cap 4 and the air is evacuated through the pipe 5 which is used both for the supply and the evacuation of said air; the initial drying air is exhausted to the outside. When the initial drying phase is completed and the conditioning phase begins, the air circulation provided by the member 6 is no longer in open circuit but in circuit. closed and the member 6 adds to the circulating air a sufficient amount of water to maintain inside the cap 4 a constant relative humidity. Instead of water, it is possible to introduce into the air during the conditioning phase an aqueous or hydroalcoholic liquid for treating the hair or the scalp.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation représenté sur la figure 4, on voit que le dispositif pour la mise en oeuvre de l'invention est constitué d'un casque-séchoir 7 de type classique modifié. Le casque-séchoir 7 est équipé d'un ventilateur 8, qui aspire l'air extérieur selon la flèche F et le pulse après chauffage en direction de la chevelure, l'air pulsé ressortant du casque autour de la tête de l'utilisatrice selon les flèches F1. Le casque 7 est équipé d'un dis- positif 9 permettant l'injection dans le flux d'air chaud pulsé d'une quantité de vapeur destinée à maintenir une hygrométrie relative constante. Après que les cheveux mouillés de l'utilisatrice aient été mis en forme, on met la chevelure sous le casque 7 et l'on commence la phase de séchage initial du procédé. Quand le temps de séchage initial est écoulé, on introduit la vapeur d'eau (ou un liquide de traitement à l'état vapeur) par la canalisation 9 pendant toute la durée de la phase de conditionnement, la quantité de vapeur étant régulée de façon à maintenir une hygrométrie relative constante autour de la chevelure.In another embodiment shown in FIG. 4, it can be seen that the device for implementing the invention consists of a dryer hood 7 of the modified conventional type. The dryer hood 7 is equipped with a fan 8, which draws in the outside air according to the arrow F and the pulse after heating in the direction of the hair, the forced air emerging from the helmet around the wearer's head according to the arrows F1. The hood 7 has a say - positive 9 for injection into the hot air flow pulse an amount of steam for maintaining a constant relative humidity. After the wet hair of the user has been shaped, the hair is put under the helmet 7 and the initial drying phase of the process is started. When the initial drying time has elapsed, water vapor (or a treatment liquid in the vapor state) is introduced through line 9 throughout the duration of the conditioning phase, the quantity of vapor being regulated so as to to maintain a constant relative humidity around the hair.

Il est bien entendu que les modes de mise en oeuvre et de réalisation ci-dessus décrits ne sont aucunement limitatifs et pourront donner lieu à toutes modifications désirables, sans sortir pour cela du cadre de l'invention.It is understood that the embodiments and embodiments described above are in no way limiting and may give rise to any desirable modifications, without thereby departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (15)

1. Procédé pour le séchage des cheveux après un traitement humide dans lequel, après ledit traitement humide, on sèche les cheveux à une température comprise entre 35 et 75°C environ, la dernière partie du séchage étant une phase de conditionnement mettant en oeuvre un air soufflé humide ayant une hygrométrie relative comprise entre 40 et 80 % environ, caractérisé par le fait que les cheveux sont séchés à l'état libre et que, pour améliorer l'état et l'aspect des cheveux après séchage,et en particulier de leurs pointes, on les soumet d'abord à un séchage initial jusqu'à ce qu'ils aient un poids inférieur à leur poids initial avant traitement humide, et ensuite, à la phase de conditionnement en air humide jusqu'à obtention de la réhydratation concomitante à l'effet de conditionnement.1. A method for drying the hair after a wet treatment in which, after said wet treatment, the hair is dried at a temperature between about 35 and 75 ° C., the last part of the drying being a conditioning phase using a humid blown air with a relative humidity of between 40 and 80% approximately, characterized in that the hair is dried in the free state and that, to improve the condition and appearance of the hair after drying, and in particular of their tips, they are first subjected to an initial drying until they have a weight lower than their initial weight before wet treatment, and then, to the humid air conditioning phase until rehydration is obtained concomitant with the conditioning effect. 2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le fait qu'après le traitement humide et avant le séchage initial, les cheveux sont mis en forme selon la technique usuelle pour le séchage libre.2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that after the wet treatment and before the initial drying, the hair is shaped according to the usual technique for free drying. 3. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise le séchage initial des cheveux, avant la phase de conditionnement, ------------- à une température comprise entre 40 et 75°C pendant un temps compris entre 10 et 60 mn.3. Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the initial drying of the hair is carried out, before the conditioning phase, ------------- at a temperature between 40 and 75 ° C for a time between 10 and 60 min. 4. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise le séchage initial des cheveux avant la phase de conditionnement par une ventilation, en circuit ouvert, d'air pris à l'extérieur et chauffé.4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that one carries out the initial drying of the hair before the conditioning phase by ventilation, in open circuit, of air taken outside and heated . 5. Procédé selon la revendication 4, caractérisé par le fait que le courant d'air chaud envoyé sur les cheveux au cours du séchage initial et de la phase de conditionnement, est de force telle que les cheveux ne sont pas déplacés ou le sont de manière peu sensible.5. Method according to claim 4, characterized in that the current of hot air sent to the hair during the initial drying and the conditioning phase is of such force that the hair is not moved or is not very sensitive. 6. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé par le fait que l'on commence la phase de conditionnement à un moment choisi dans un intervalle de temps commençant alors que les cheveux présentent une- perte en eau par rapport à leur poids initial avant traitement humide et finissant au moment où les cheveux ont subi une perte en poids par rapport à leur poids avant traitement humide de 15 % environ.6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that one begins the conditioning phase at a chosen time in a time interval beginning while the hair has a loss of water relative to its initial weight before wet treatment and ending at the time when the hair has suffered a loss in weight relative to its weight before wet treatment of approximately 15%. 7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé par le fait qu'on réalise le séchage initial des cheveux avant la phase de conditionnement jusqu'à obtention d'une perte en poids des cheveux par rapport à leur poids avant le traitement humide comprise entre 1 et 15 %.7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that the initial drying of the hair is carried out before the conditioning phase until a loss in weight of the hair relative to their weight is obtained before the wet treatment of between 1 and 15%. 8. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise la phase de conditionnement à une température comprise entre 35 et 60°C et, de préférence, voisine de 50°C.8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the conditioning phase is carried out at a temperature between 35 and 60 ° C and, preferably, close to 50 ° C. 9 . Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise la phase de conditionnement à une température voisine de celle pratiquée pendant la phase de séchage initial des cheveux.9. Method according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the conditioning phase is carried out at a temperature close to that practiced during the initial drying phase of the hair. 10. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise la phase de conditionnement pendant un temps compris entre 5 et 60 mn environ.10. Method according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the conditioning phase is carried out for a time between 5 and 60 minutes approximately. 11. Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise la phase de conditionnement pendant un temps compris entre 10 et 20 mn environ.11. Method according to claim 10, characterized in that the conditioning phase is carried out for a time of between 10 and 20 min approximately. 12. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise la phase de conditionnement en injectant dans l'atmosphère, où se trouvent les cheveux, de la vapeur d'eau.12. Method according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the conditioning phase is carried out by injecting water vapor into the atmosphere, where the hair is located. 13. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12, caractérisé par le fait qu'au cours de la phase de conditionnement, on injecte dans l'atmosphère, où se trouvent les cheveux, un produit de traitement.13. Method according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that during the condi Once injected, a treatment product is injected into the atmosphere, where the hair is located. 14. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisé par le fait que l'on réalise le traitement humide initial des cheveux par un mouillage à l'eau, et/ou un shampooing, et/ou un traitement cosmétique impliquant le mouillage des cheveux par une solution aqueuse ou hydroalçoolique.14. Method according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the initial wet treatment of the hair is carried out by wetting with water, and / or a shampoo, and / or a cosmetic treatment involving the wetting the hair with an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. 15. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 14, caractérisé par le fait que l'on traite les cheveux naturels, décolorés, colorés ou permanentés.15. Method according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that one treats natural hair, bleached, colored or permed.
EP85110670A 1982-08-16 1983-07-21 Method of treating hair, especially the tips Expired - Lifetime EP0201622B1 (en)

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FR8214178A FR2531617A1 (en) 1982-08-16 1982-08-16 PROCESS FOR TREATING HAIR, AND IN PARTICULAR THEIR TIP, AND DEVICE FOR CARRYING OUT SAID METHOD
FR8214178 1982-08-16

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EP0659394A1 (en) * 1993-12-22 1995-06-28 L'oreal Process for non-permanent hair deformation
EP0659393A1 (en) * 1993-12-22 1995-06-28 L'oreal Process for non-permanent hair deformation
US5520200A (en) * 1993-12-22 1996-05-28 L'oreal Process for the non-lasting reshaping of keratinous fibres
US5551453A (en) * 1993-12-22 1996-09-03 L'oreal Process for the temporary reshaping of keratinous fibres

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0101355B1 (en) 1986-10-15
EP0101355A3 (en) 1984-03-28
US4610261A (en) 1986-09-09
DE3382508D1 (en) 1992-03-19
DE3366825D1 (en) 1986-11-20
EP0201622B1 (en) 1992-02-05
ATE22784T1 (en) 1986-11-15
FR2531617A1 (en) 1984-02-17
FR2531617B1 (en) 1985-01-11
DE101355T1 (en) 1984-12-20
ATE72384T1 (en) 1992-02-15
CA1198373A (en) 1985-12-24
EP0201622A3 (en) 1990-03-14
EP0101355A2 (en) 1984-02-22
DE201622T1 (en) 1987-04-30

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