DE4027279A1 - TEMPORAER UNLASTIC COMBINATION EMBROIDERY YARN, METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION THEREOF AND THEIR USE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination- embroidery yarns based on virtually unstretched, highly elastic core filament yarns (for example based on elastanes), covered with an inner covering yarn composed of soluble yarns (for example PVA-hot water-soluble) and an outer covering yarn composed of textile threads or yarns, (for example viscose, polyamide or polyester). They are produced by covering a virtually unstretched, highly elastic core fibre, (for example elastane filament yarns) with an inner covering yarn based on a soluble covering yarn (for example hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol yarn) and an outer covering yarn composed of an insoluble textile covering yarn. Such a temporarily inelastic combination yarn is used as an embroidery yarn for embroidery application (decoration, pattern) on elastic backing fabrics/knitted fabrics with subsequent dissolving-out of the soluble inner covering yarn (for example PVA) with release of a certain elastic mobility of the embroidery yarn, which after this dissolving-out (for example in aqueous finishing processes) has such a stretchability that the applied embroidery can follow the elastic stretchings of the base fabric/knitted fabric.

Description

The invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination embroidery yarns Base of practically undrawn, highly elastic core filament yarns (eg based on Elastane), wound with an inner sheathing yarn of soluble yarns (eg PVA hot water soluble) and an outer Hüllgarm of textile threads or yarns (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns from z. As viscose, polyamides or Polyesters).

They are made by wrapping a practically unstretched, high elastic core thread (eg spandex filament yarns) with an inner sheath yarn based on a soluble casing yarn (eg hot water soluble polyvinyl alcohol) Thread) and an outer wrap wrap yarn of an insoluble textile wrap yarn.

The use of such a temporarily inelastic combination yarn takes place as embroidery thread for the embroidery application (ornaments / patterns) on elastic ground woven / knitted with subsequent detachment of the soluble inner shell garnes (eg PVA) releasing a certain elastic mobility of the Embroidery thread, which after this leaching (eg in aqueous finishing processes) a has such extensibility that the embroidery applications the elastic strains of the base fabric / knit fabric.

Elastic or rubber threads are often used to create elastic textiles worked. For knitwear, it is technically possible to nude these yarns  work. In other techniques, such as. B. weaving, must to process this elastic threads are limited to their elasticity. For this purpose will be Combination yarns made from the elastic soul and one or more Sheath yarn components exist. Such combination yarns are preferred made by the cover threads in compounds around the pre-stretched elastane thread be placed. Used here are winding machines with hollow spindle facilities. It can be one or two-stage Umwindungsgarne with difference properties are produced. The in textile fabrics desired elastic extensibility is generated by the fact that in the process of Wrap the elastic thread under high elongation (100 to 600% elongation). The elasticity is by a return process or Shrinking process triggered after production of the fabric.

In order to make certain yarns for processing very little stretchy, is (GB 6 78 507, 11. 11. 48, GE 8 22 704, 18. 10. 49, FP 13 83 876 of 21. 10. 63, GE 15 10 696 of 30. 6. 64, GE 15 10 699 of 30. 7. 64, FP 14 03 509 of 5. 8. 64, US 34 92 707 of 12. 2. 68), such combination yarns with a first to produce soluble wrapping thread and a second textile wrapping thread.

In any case, the elastic yarn core (eg spandex filament yarn) becomes strong worked in a dilated way. After dissolving the soluble fraction according to Herstel Development of the fabric is predominantly by the elastic return process in the fabric the desired elastic extensibility of the produced therefrom Article reached.

If an attempt has now been made to produce a combination yarn suitable for embroidering, according to the prior art, a highly elastic spandex filament yarn in stretched state wound with a soluble first suture and continuously in a second stage with a second textile thread in The opposite direction to the first wrapping thread was wound, so this yarn settled Although easily versticken. After dissolving out the soluble inner The embroidery application pulled the elastic base together in such a way, that the goods became unusable.  

After a large number of experiments, in which the wrapping parameters on the Known and described were changed out, a yarn was found, which fulfills all the desired properties and after the release of the soluble component (<20%), but still sufficient is stretchable. The elasticity is not in this case by jumping in the questionable combination yarn with pre-stretched core (souls) thread, but based solely on the interaction of the spiral, outer Umwindungskomponente and released when dissolving Vo lumen of the soluble thread of the inner wrap. It is limited here elastically stretchable combination thread (in the embroidery application) achieved. A sufficiently good and lasting elasticity is due to the highly elastic Soul thread (core thread) z. B. guaranteed based on elastane.

The combination yarn according to the invention also fulfills the following objects Settings for use as embroidery thread for elastic backing: Will you on an elastic backing or knitted fabric (such as bodice tulle) Appli applying cations (eg embroidery designs by embroidery), care must be taken to that also the application (the embroidery design) entering dilations in use textile, elastic base fabric. On the other hand, one must Embroidery thread for embroidery technical reasons have the following properties and meet the following requirements:

• 1. The thread must be practically inelastic in the embroidery process, ie, its extensibility in this case must preferably be <1%.
  (Test method for determination of extensibility: Length change measurement between the stress levels 0.005 cN / dtex and 0.5 cN / dtex, based on the entire 3-component yarn The test is performed on 10 monofilaments with the rest length = 50 cm.)
• 2. A certain stiffness of the thread should be present for the embroidery process.
• 3. The thread should be as circular as possible, smooth surface and have distortion-free character.
• 4. The embroidery thread or the embroidery application must be installed after the equipment embroidered goods the necessary elasticity and elasticity of the elastic Reason to fully accompany, without obstructing or einzu limit.
• 5. The embroidery thread may after the embroidery process at the end of the equipment Fabrics do not contract the basic fabric.
• 6. For fashionable reasons, embroidery often has special gloss effects required.

Quantitatively, the properties of the yarn of the present invention will be as follows described:

The 3-component yarn has a ductility <5% after its production, preferably <3%, especially low but <1%, according to the Test specification.

When dissolving the soluble wrapping yarn component through the water the combination yarn jumps only by the amount of its substance shrinkage (Loss of substance, possibly including substance shrinkage of the remaining two Components). This substance shrinkage should preferably be <10%, under no circumstances be <20%.

The total elastic extensibility, starting from that of the material shrinkage achieved test length to the unclamped state, depending on the used Number of turns of the outer and inner convolution and the vacant Volu adjustable between 0.1 and approx. 100%. It can, however  be sufficient, the elastic elongation to 10 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%, to limit.

The quantitative yarn data referred to are determined by the following test methods:

Test method: "shrinkage and elongation measurement" on the combination yarn:

• 1. Knit yarn strand, 10 m with 0.1 cN / dtex preload.
  These skeins of yarn are then treated as follows:
• 2. load with 0.5 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: L₀
  Load Pos. 1-2, based on the 3-component yarn.
• 3. Boil down the twine strands
  98 ° C 30 min.
  Dry for 1 hr
  Air-condition for 1 hour
• 4. Load at 0.005 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: L₁
• 5. load with 0.5 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: L₂
  Load Pos. 4-5, based on the 2-component yarn (spandex / outer wrapping yarn).

As highly elastic core threads (selenium threads) (A) can be highly elastic threads with elastic strains <250%, z. B. based on segmented copolyester, segmented copolyesterether or preferably segmented polyurethanes or Polyurethane ureas (elastane) find use. Your titer is around 10 to 160 dtex, preferably 20 to 80 dtex.

As an inner, soluble wrapping thread (B) become soluble filaments or yarns, preferably hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads or in alcohols, Ketones, esters or hydrocarbons soluble threads of z. B. Modacrylen or used similar. For economic reasons, become water-soluble Polyvinyl alcohol filaments preferred in the aqueous finishing baths can be removed. Their titres are from about 50 to 300 dtex, preferably from about 100 to 300 dtex.

The outer, non-soluble textile sheaths (C) are threads (including yarns) made for example, polyamides, polyesters, cellulose, preferably viscose and poly amides. Their titres are from 10 to 200 dtex, preferably from 50 to 200 dtex.

The combination embroidery thread according to the invention is produced as follows (see FIG. 1):

The elastic core thread (A) is fed virtually without stretching in the process of a criss-cross (2-stage) wrap. In this case, either the thread is fed rolling (item 1 ) or the thread over the head of the spool withdrawn, without set, additional rotation (Pos. 1 ' ). The total twist of the elastic thread in the hollow spindle should in this case be <10% and be given only by the unavoidable thread withdrawal tension of the coil.

On the first hollow spindle, the washer coil 2 is seated with the storage of soluble yarn (B) which is wound as a first sheath component in S-twist around the elastic core. The number of turns to be applied can be from 300 to 2000 turns / m. With the height of this number of turns, the stretchability to be achieved after the dissolution of this component can be influenced. The titer of this soluble component should be many times coarser than the titer of the elastic soul. Preferably, the titer is more than three times greater.

This first-stage turn-up yarn passes through a second hollow spindle with the disc spool 3 , which carries the stock of the textile wrapping thread (C).

The second hollow spindle runs here in Z-rotation and thus in opposite directions to the first Umwindungsstufe.

With the choice of the number of turns of the second Umwindungsstufe is the Kombina tion yarn essentially made spin-neutral and in addition the extensibility of the Combination yarn after leaching out the soluble component even more as in the first stage, influenced. The rule here is that the stretchability to be achieved increases with increasing number of turns.

After the second Umwindungsstufe the 3-component yarn (D) is deducted from the factory 4 , which determines the speed of passage of the yarn through both hollow spindles. The necessary number of turns in both stages are controlled by appropriate spindle speeds.

After delivery unit 4 , the 3-component yarn of the winding station 5 is fed and wound up into a finished coil.

If you want to achieve a particularly high gloss combination yarn, it is preferable to take in the outer wrap a high-gloss viscose. The rotation of the disc coil 3 gives the sheath yarn a twist in itself, which breaks the gloss to a great extent. The gloss can be largely obtained in a special, inventions to the invention embodiment, if the Hüllgarn before, in a separate process, against the applied Umwindungs direction was pre-rotated.

The decisive factor here is that the pre-rotation number with the Umwindungszahl itself largely cancel each other, so that the filament in combination yarn is virtually present (untwisted) and retains its full shine.

The yarns according to the invention can be used for applications on elastic ground were used (elastic spout / woven goods, eg for corsetry). While embroidery applications of conventional inelastic embroidery threads the elastic extensibility of the ground in the expansion area of the application permanently and disturbingly blocked, it is with the invention, temporary Inelastic embroidery threads make it possible to produce completely new embroidery products also in the area of the embroidery pattern are elastically extensible. Find your application they embroider on elastic corsetry or elastic textiles.

Example 1 Yarn adjustment 1

Soul:
Dorlastan®, dtex 33, highly elastic polyurethane elastomer thread -Elastan)
pulled off over head (without tension)

1st stage:
PVA (Solvron®), dtex 62/3, (hot water soluble polyvinyl alcohol thread)
400 turns-S

2nd stage:
Viscose, dtex 2 × 84/1, (84/1 pre-turned with 480-S)
480 turns-Z

Remarks:
The yarns used with the corresponding pre-turns and the number of turns and winding direction to be applied can also be produced in the mirror-image sense of the above example.

Result: Elongation of the 3-component yarn <1% Shrinkage during the removal process of the PVA 10% Total elastic elongation after dissolving the PVA about 25% Gloss of viscose in the finished article Well Elasticity of the embroidery application Well

example 2 Garneinstellung

Soul:
Dorlastan®, dtex 33, (elastane)
without stretching (deducted from the top)

1st stage:
PVA (Solvron®), dtex 62/3
1000 turns / mS

2nd stage:
PA 66, dtex 78f17 × 1 HE
1737 turns / mZ

Result: Elongation of the component yarn <1% Shrinkage during the removal process of the PVA 10% Total elastic elongation after dissolving the PVA 60% Gloss of the PA 66 in the finished particle little shine Elasticity of the embroidery application very well

example 3 Yarn adjustment (comparative experiment)

Soul:
As example 2,
However, distortion of the highly elastic Dorlastan filament yarn 280% (draw 1: 3.8) (not according to the invention):

1st stage:
as example 2,
900 turns / mS

2nd stage:
as example 2,
900 turns / m

Result: Elongation of the 3-component yarn <1% Shrinkage when dissolving the PVA (contraction) - not according to the invention :) 70% (!) Total elastic elongation after dissolving the PVA <90% Finished goods absolutely useless, because the elastic reason has extremely pulled together when dissolving the PVA content.

example 4 Garneinstellung (Pre-rotation of the viscose yarn according to the turns of the turn)

Soul:
Dorlastan®, dtex 33
without stretching (deducted from the top)

1st stage:
PVA (Solvron®), dtex 111/1
480 turns / mS

2nd stage:
Viscose, dtex 167/1 (pre-turned 480-S)
480 turns-Z

Result: Elongation of the 3-component yarn <1% Shrinkage when dissolving the PVA 13% Total elastic elongation after the leaching process 25% Shine in finished goods very well Elasticity of the embroidery application Well

Claims (9)

1. Temporarily inelastic convolutions, consisting of a
Core thread: highly elastic thread (preferably elastane)
1. (inner) sheath yarn: inelastic, soluble thread (preferably PVA)
2. (outer) sheath yarn: insoluble, textile thread,
characterized in that the wrapping yarn is initially inelastic and has an extensibility <5%, preferably <3% and in particular <1%,
the highly elastic core thread is practically unstretched wound crosswise and that the yarn after breaking away the soluble first Hüllgarns not on the measure of the substance (material) shrinkage of a maximum of 20%, preferably 10%, einspringt
and after the dissolution of the first soluble wrapping thread having an elastic extensibility of 0.1 to 100%, preferably 10 to 40%, in particular 20 to 30%. 2. Yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the second (outer) textile wrapping yarn in the number of turns of the first inner soluble wrapping yarn is adapted so that an approximately swirl-neutral overall thread results. 3. Yarn according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that as an outer Hüllgarn a high-gloss, textile yarn is used. 4. yarn according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that despite forced The twist of the used second twisted yarn twisting applied outer wrapping yarn is not broken and preferably this outer  Auxiliary yarn in the opposite direction to the Umwindungsgarnherstellung with the Twist was pre-twisted and a turn thread in handy parallel form of his individual filaments. 5. yarn according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that as inner Hüllgarn a hot water soluble thread made of polyvinyl alcohol used becomes. 6. Yarn according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that as an outer Sheath yarn Viscose, polyamide or polyester filaments or fiber yarns be used. 7. A process for the preparation of the yarn according to claims 1 to 6, characterized characterized in that the elastic core thread practically without stretching in the process of a crosswise (2-stage) winding to the two Covering yarns is supplied. 8. A process for producing a yarn according to claim 7, characterized ge indicates that the outer wrapping yarn before the processing of the Combination yarn production in the opposite direction with the same Pitch is vorzwirnt. 9. Use of temporarily inelastic Umwindungsgarne according to claims 1 to 6 as embroidery thread on elastic ground fabrics or knitted fabrics, under subsequent dissolution of the soluble inner Hüllgarns under Generation of an elastically extensible embroidery application, which the Elasticity and elasticity of the elastic base fabric / knitted fabric full accompanied and the elastic base fabric / knitted fabric does not contract.